Home Networking Firewall-VPN-router recommendations for home |
- Firewall-VPN-router recommendations for home
- Changing to open NAT on a spanish TP-Link router ?
- Random humor. Dang bruh, my cable modem just turned itself to a time machine.
- Newbie building DIY Router
- Can't Access R7000 in browser after setting up as wireless repeater
- Help with network solutions.
- Zone Alarm Blocking Multicast and other Traffic
- Recommendation on home setup
- Tp Link smart switch
- Dumb question for a newbie
- Asus ZenWifi AX not Optimizing devices
- Archer C5 extremely Slow on Android TV
- Using a NAS
- Another smart home what router thread
- TL-SG105E smart switch. Where have I gone wrong?
- Hey all, moving to a new house and some of you recommended Ubiquiti. How can I apply these into my house.
- MoCA network limited to slowest device?
- Powerline communications (AV1200/X10) vs Surge suppressor outlets
- Fritzbox 7530 antennas orientation
| Firewall-VPN-router recommendations for home Posted: 24 Feb 2022 02:59 AM PST Anyone have any recommendations for a sub-$150 home firewall router with site-to-site VPN capability for a gigabit internet connection? [link] [comments] | ||
| Changing to open NAT on a spanish TP-Link router ? Posted: 24 Feb 2022 03:08 AM PST I've been banging me head against a wall trying to fix this for like 3 hours I'm in mexico, but I dont speak spanish. There's no option to change the language in the router settings so I'm just poorly translating things piece by piece, trying to figure out how to set a static ip, or do port forwarding, or whatever, but I can't get any success. And since it's all in spanish I dont know for sure if I'm doing it right. I just want to play Destiny [link] [comments] | ||
| Random humor. Dang bruh, my cable modem just turned itself to a time machine. Posted: 24 Feb 2022 12:19 AM PST
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| Posted: 24 Feb 2022 12:53 AM PST Hey all, new to the community here. I'm thinking of using PFSense to turn my old Mac Pro (Early 2009) into a useful home router, since it just sits here otherwise. It came with dual 1gb ethernet ports which is one of the reasons this project seemed so appealing. Is that fast enough to run a modest home network though? Or should I splurge and get a pricy dual 10gb ethernet card? I've got the switch and wireless access point already, so those don't need to come into account either. If anyone has any other suggestions on what I should do with this Early 2009 Mac Pro, I'm open to hearing those too! Thanks in advance [link] [comments] | ||
| Can't Access R7000 in browser after setting up as wireless repeater Posted: 24 Feb 2022 12:31 AM PST I've set up the R7000 as a wireless repeater in the Netgear interface, but I have a problem: If the R7000 is wired into the other router, I am able to access the internet when connected via WIFI to the R7000 on its named SSID wifi. If I unplug the R7000 from the other router, I am no longer able to access the internet. Meanwhile, I can no longer access the Netgear admin interface at the IP that it used to be at BEFORE setting it up as a repeater, and I have no way of FINDING the current IP address - I've looked in the other router's connected devices list, and the MAC address is nowhere to be found. Suggestions? [link] [comments] | ||
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| Zone Alarm Blocking Multicast and other Traffic Posted: 24 Feb 2022 02:52 AM PST I've used Zone Alarm for years now and have recently(about 2 months ago) reinstalled Windows 10 along with Zone Alarm. I've always had my Public and Internet Zones set to High and haven't had to add any IPs, Sites or Subnets to any zones. Though, when I checked my firewall log about 2 weeks ago, I noticed traffic I have never seen before. I'm seeing what I think is multicast traffic from various devices I have connected to my router. For example, I see incoming traffic from my tablet directed to 239.255.255.250:1900. From my Xboxes, I can see traffic directed towards 224.0.0.252:0, 224.0.0.251:5353, 224.0.0.252.5355. Also, when I launch the Xbox App on my computer, I'll see blocked traffic from my computer to 255.255.255.255:5050. I assume this has to do with the ability to connect to an Xbox One through the app I can also see at other times from my own computer, traffic directed to 224.0.0.251:5353. I also see traffic from my computer on ports 137 and 138 directed to 192.168.125(I assume this is the router, though I use 192.268.1.1 to access it) on ports 137 and 138, respectively. Zone Alarm's more info page say these have to do with NetBios and my computer renewing its IP adress. Which seems to go along with blocked traffic from 0.0.0.0:68 to 255.255.255.255:67, as Zone Alarm's more info page states that this is the DHCP server(my router) requesting authentication to renew my IP address. Though, I'm not having any trouble in obtaining an IP address from the router. Anyway, after combing through the archived firewall logs,it looks like this traffic began being blocked on February 7th. I haven't changed any settings since install, what would cause Zone Alarm to start blocking this traffic? As I stated earlier, I have never seen this traffic blicked before. According to this https://download.zonealarm.com/bin/inclient/ZA_HelpCenter/port_permissions_default.html , if I'm reading it correctly, multicast traffic should be allowed with High settings. Is it possible the Zone Alarm installation has corrupted? Would a reinstall help? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 24 Feb 2022 02:48 AM PST Hi, I need a little help on what's the best setup to have at home. I'm currently running a QNAP device as a NAS, for all my documents, photos... I also have a good old RPi 1 for keeping my weather station up, and a RPi 4 that's hosting Home Assistant and my personal website. I'm currently using the built-in QNAP's OpenVPN installation for connecting to the server from outside my home. But this is causing me a lot of troubles, as well as not being quite secure. Since I have the QNAP connected to a SAI, when light at home goes out it correctly and safely turns itself off, but I have to physically be there to turn it back on, therefore not booting up the VPN, and not allowing me to monitor the rest of the network from outside home. Which is completely necessary since I'm studying out of my city, and I need to access the network remotely. I've taken a look at the Ubuquiti's Security Gateway, since all the APs I have at home are from Ubiquiti, and work great, and having a full-time Unifi server would be quite nice, but the interesting part would be to keep the VPN running on that device. Should I do this change, or it would be a total overkill for a that small setup? What other alternatives are there? Thanks in advance. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 24 Feb 2022 02:28 AM PST Hi, Is it possible to use TL-SG2008 as: Port 1: static IP address for home network Other ports: LAN with internet access over port 1. Thanks [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 23 Feb 2022 09:03 PM PST So I wanna move our current modem/router that our ISP gave us to my room instead of our living room so I can start using Ethernet cables. We don't have cable, only internet. So when I try to move it to my room and plug it in, I don't get a connection/I can't connect to it anymore. Same problem with any room in the house besides the one outlet in the living room, so how do I activate my coax outlet? I can't find an exact answer online. [link] [comments] | ||
| Asus ZenWifi AX not Optimizing devices Posted: 23 Feb 2022 07:32 PM PST I have 3 Asus ZenWifi AX routers. 1 connected to my modem and the other 2 set up as mesh nodes. One of the mesh nodes is in my bedroom (2nd floor), the mail Router is on the main floor (1st floor), and the 2nd node is in the basement. All 3 of the devices are receiving connection and working. However my devices (computers, phones, tablets, etc) are not connecting to the closet node, rather whatever node they want. An example of this is I have an androidTV connected in the bedroom (2nd floor) its is connected to the node in the bedroom, however a Windows Desktop on the same floor is connected to the basement node. I have tried using the optimization option on the Asus app however it doesn't seem to connect to the closest node. Does anyone know of a way to "force" the devices to join the closest node rather then what ever one they want? [link] [comments] | ||
| Archer C5 extremely Slow on Android TV Posted: 23 Feb 2022 10:32 PM PST Hi all, I recently got a new Android TV. It only has 2G. I have 2 issues currently both with 2 different TPLink routers.
Thanks [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 23 Feb 2022 09:50 PM PST I want to get a NAS to setup as a hub for downloading all my games (almost like a cache server) however anytime I try to look up a tutorial on YouTube or Google I get results coming back as "Can you game on your NAS?" To make it clear I reinstall windows a lot and would like to re-download my games from my NAS instead of the internet, but I guess I don't have a good way with words to get Google to recognize what I want, so I've turned to reddit. [link] [comments] | ||
| Another smart home what router thread Posted: 23 Feb 2022 08:46 PM PST Ive been reading through all the others and realize I ain't been keeping up with the tech like I thought I was. But its been put on me to handle this since I built the network and no one else know ish about it lol. But I'm behind, this has gotten overwhelming and I need some help So here's the deal. Free internet as part of the rent deal but between the 3 buildings and everybody doing smart home things we've all started having device response issues. All thru HomeKit and various hubs as well as smart tvs, Apple TV etc. Internet has even been dropping out too sometimes. Outside of internet drop outs, streaming music and video seems unaffected for all wired devices on each apartments switch. Each apartment has its own router in bridge mode connected on a wire thru same switch back to the main router for handling DHCP and directly connected to the modem. The modem was upgraded a few months ago by the ISP so I think we can rule that out since problems started before and continue after. My guess is that the Linksys WRT 1900ac is either shitting the bed or no longer capable of handling this amount of traffic. Funny enough there wasn't as much issues over the summer when there was WAY more traffic when their other business side was attached with hundreds of devices. So maybe its hardware aging? Anyway which routers would yall recommend to replace the main one handling all the DHCP? (nothing that needs a subscription just to use the management features please) [link] [comments] | ||
| TL-SG105E smart switch. Where have I gone wrong? Posted: 23 Feb 2022 08:15 PM PST
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| Posted: 23 Feb 2022 07:31 PM PST Moving into a house with Google fiber, etc etc. I found the Ubiquiti Wifi 6 pro and it looks good. How will I set this up in the house? I'm not sure if there's cat5e routed throughout the walls, and if there isn't I'm not sure how I would do that. All I know is that there is a fiber jack and I have to plug like a Gigabit ethernet switch and from the ethernet switch plug in the Wifi 6 pro routers, and somehow route them through the wall. Please educate me, and if I'm late with responding, I'm sorry, i'm super busy packing. EDIT: gigabit ethernet switch I have now: netgear GS605 [link] [comments] | ||
| MoCA network limited to slowest device? Posted: 23 Feb 2022 07:20 PM PST If most of my MoCA devices are 1gb, will a 2.5gb MoCA device work at full speed or be capped at 1gb? Router and PC would both have 2.5gb connections. [link] [comments] | ||
| Powerline communications (AV1200/X10) vs Surge suppressor outlets Posted: 23 Feb 2022 07:17 PM PST I have a lot of electronics in the house, and my utility unfortunately often has surges. I recently replaced a number of outlets with surge protector outlets, Leviton models 5280 and 7280. An electrician installed them. A tester shows they are wired correctly. All power is delivered fine. The LED showing the protection is still active is lit on all of them. However, since doing that, powerline communications in my home have become nearly useless. TP-Link AV1200 models 8010 and 8030, which used to be able to connect at very low bandwidth (6 - 20 Mbps) between 4 rooms, no longer work the vast majority of the time. Smokeping shows 20% average packet loss. Sometimes, the connection is off for multiple hours at a time. I have removed the 4 powerline modems as a result, and connected all the other devices to Unifi Wifi bridges instead. I had to buy an extra Unifi AP for the 2 Ethernet devices in the garage. Things are much more reliable over Wifi now, though packet loss over Wifi is not 0%. 0.07% in the garage, 0.15% in the master bedroom, 0.16% in the guest bedroom. No devices aren't going offline for hours or minutes, though. If I could afford to, I would run Ethernet, but it's not practical, unfortunately. Another thing that barely works anymore are X10 signals. Even with filters, I can barely turn on the lights and audio in my office with my CM11A/CM17A/RR501 in the same room. For distant signals from one room to another, it's a crapshoot. Half the time my porch light doesn't shut off any more in the morning. It still lights up nearly every evening. I can't turn on the hot tub light or backyard lights from my phone when it's dark most of the time either, because the PLC signals don't make it through. Is there something inherently incompatible between surge protector outlets and PLC ? The length of wire didn't change when replacing normal outlets with surge protector outlets, unlike plug-in surge protectors, which have a cable. Could anything in the installation be a factor it (wires not tight enough, anything, really) ? Or do I simply have to choose between PLC and surge protector outlets. [link] [comments] | ||
| Fritzbox 7530 antennas orientation Posted: 23 Feb 2022 06:47 PM PST The unit has antennas integrated into the PCB https://www.nikktech.com/main/articles/peripherals/network/modem-routers/9548-avm-fritz-box-7530-ac1300-vdsl-adsl-modem-router-review?start=3 also https://frixtender.de/kompatibilitaet-der-fritzbox-7530/ My understanding after a short research is emissions are almost spherical vs doughnut shaped for a dipole external antenna. As such horizontal vs vertical wall mounting shouldn't affect range (all other conditions being equal). Am I right? Thanks. [link] [comments] |
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