Home Networking Reseating coax improves RF to cable modem by around 1 dBmV but why doesn't it matter WHICH coax connection I reseat? |
- Reseating coax improves RF to cable modem by around 1 dBmV but why doesn't it matter WHICH coax connection I reseat?
- Equipment cooling for area with no climate control
- Shielded CAT 6A in home - checking install approach
- NAT from two networks on one WAN interface
- Debugging Possible Outtages w/ PRTG
- Pairing ASUS xt8 with Netgear CAX80?
- Issues with Netgear and Default Comcast Modem
- Routing to separate devices on separate interfaces each with same IP?
- Question to shorten a local domain with an other local domain
- Home Network Upgrade (switch)
- 5GHz wi-fi across 3 floors
- Home Network Help
- Looking for help with the network
- My Android Mobile wifi is showing half of the actual bandwidth but getting full bandwith on my laptop. Any solution to get full bandwith on mobile wifi?
- Do you have SSL / HTTPS for IPMI, Proxmox, TrueNAS, and other servers?
- New router won't connect wirelessly
- Any real difference in coax?
- After installing gargoyle over openwrt, can't open dslreports.com but can open any other site and the gateway
- New home
- Google Mesh new install
- Internet speed varies massively on Windows computer (from less than 1mb up to 40mb)
- 3 pack Orbi RBK753S or 3 individual Linksys MR9610 for mesh system?
- NID: What's wrong with this picture? (xpost from r/cablefail)
- WiFi router - is it time to upgrade?
- How can I best figure out coax PoE in home?
| Posted: 02 May 2021 05:03 PM PDT The Power Level reading when this problem last happened averaged out to -9.6 dBmV (my screenshot doesn' show all the QAMs but the averages I cite here are based on all of the QAMs). Even though that didn't quite cross the -10 threshold, I could already feel it affecting the performance and the Gigabit connection started only providing around 100 - 200 Mbps download, with pages sometimes failing to load. The slow speed and weak RF signal always happen simultaneously, so I'll know when pages sometimes fail to load that our RF has dropped slightly and needs attention. According to our ISP, anything from -10 dBmV to + 10 dBmV is "within spec" and will provide a stable connection. Our modem's Power Level is -8.7 dBmV on a good day but every four days or so, the RF slowly becomes weaker and the internet starts freezing and slowing down. All of a sudden I'll notice pages not loading and 80% of our Gigabit speed has gone. If the problem is ignored, it eventually gets worse (as the RF slowly falls more out of spec). The workaround is effective but only temporary: if I unscrew the coax from the modem and reattach it, it completely restores full service for a few more days. The Power Level reading when this problem last happened was -9.6 dBmV. Even though that didn't quite cross the -10 threshold, I could already feel it affecting the performance and the Gigabit connection started only providing around 100 - 200 Mbps download. We pages started to fail to load. The slow speed and weak RF signal always happen simultaneously, so I'll know when pages sometimes fail to load that our RF has dropped slightly and needs attention.
The strange thing is that:
So it doesn't matter which connection on the coax between the wall and the modem I unscrew. As long as the coax connection is removed somewhere and then reattached, the RF signal to the modem improves by almost 1 dBmV and the modem goes back within spec. The service tech gave me a coax cable but sadly running it from the bedroom where the decent RF feed comes upstairs into the living room where we need it wasn't really feasible. Questions:
Basically this. 😂 Everyone's trying to solve the RF problem but I've been mapping out and streamlining the path these cables take through the house since last year. There's a remaining weak link in the chain that I have to live with (old attic coax). What I'm trying to do is understand is why it doesn't matter which end of the coax I disconnect/reconnect. This is a very interesting phenomenon. [link] [comments]  |
| Equipment cooling for area with no climate control Posted: 02 May 2021 06:19 PM PDT To make a long story short I have to mount my equipment outdoors. Really, it's just a switch, but I'm worried its going to get too hot and overheat. I was thinking of just creating some airflow by cutting some exhaust holes and mounting fans to push the air out. Will this be enough? Or will I have to find a way to condition the air [link] [comments]  |
| Shielded CAT 6A in home - checking install approach Posted: 02 May 2021 04:16 AM PDT An electrician has run shielded CAT 6A throughout our property and presented loose ends into a utility room, seems like extreme overkill but what's done is done. Connections are terminated in jacks housed in faceplates throughout the property, I don't have any technical details of how this part was completed. Cable is labelled Cat 6a F/FTP 4PR 23AWG LSZH ISO/IEC 11801 Just setting up in the utility room, so far I have ISP router [BT Smart Hub 2] UniFi Switch 24 PoE [USW-24-PoE-EU] Just wanted to check my approach is correct in terms of grounding the shielded cable (if that is even a consideration) (1) Purchase home rack (2) Purchase cat 6a rated patch panel (was looking at https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat6a-patch-panels/9164-24-port-cat6a-ftp-shielded-ccs-2020-right-angled-patch-panel-5056045700394.html) (3) Connect Cat 6a cable to patch panel (4) Attach patch panel ground to rack (5) Run short Cat 6a rated fly leads from patch panel to UniFi POE Switch Does this sound ok? Any comments, gotchas or suggestions appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| NAT from two networks on one WAN interface Posted: 02 May 2021 07:10 PM PDT I have a home network running pfsense with two routers that looks roughly like this: (INTERNET) <------ (R1) <------- (R2) The idea is to have both routers able to connect to the internet (R2 routes everything in its subnet through a VPN). Right now all NAT on R1 properly nats to the internet, and R2 NATs to R1's subnet. [link] [comments]  |
| Debugging Possible Outtages w/ PRTG Posted: 02 May 2021 08:33 PM PDT I've been clawing my hair out trying to track down an issue with my internet. Just got a Mikrotik router last week because my internet was choppy and wanted to replace it anyway. Replaced the mikrotik router and the problems persisted. I've had a ISP technician come out for over an hour to debug any possible issues. He used his diagonistic tool right before my modem and all the way at the trunk without seeing *any* dropped packets etc. I'm disconnecting very frequently but only notice on voice chats or gaming where there is no buffering. (Twitch, youtube isnt affected that much due to how fast the internet recovers). Its just enough to drop me out of a party chat and disconnect from the game. Below is a picture of my network activity with the "outages" reported in red. I'm not 100% familiar with PRTG and was curious how i could utilize this tool (and others) to help diagnose this issue. NOTE: I've replaced the COAX and the ethernet port that is directly plugged in from my Mikrotik hex S to my desktop PC. [link] [comments]  |
| Pairing ASUS xt8 with Netgear CAX80? Posted: 02 May 2021 07:48 PM PDT My girlfriend and I just bought a house that has size and age (1850). I have four xt8s and a CAX80 (which I got when Verizon told me that oh, they didn't provide service to our new house after all, and Cox requires a coax cable hookup). We finally (mostly) moved into the new house this weekend, after about eight weeks of repairs. We had the CAX80 running the whole time, while the xt8s have been running in our condo. I brought one node over to the new house this evening, to try and hook it up for my girlfriend for Zoom meetings. It did not go well. The xt8 wants to set up as its own router, with its own internet, or it wants to pair with a not-present xt8 (the other three are still at the condo, and will be until Tuesday). I'm a moderate newcomer who can find information and learn quickly; however, I have found nothing on this. I got the CAX80 because it's Wifi6 and has a strong connection (and it works beautifully). How can I pair the xt8s along with it? I do have a wish to run ethernet, and both should work together for that (I also have MoCA adapters). Should I use the xt8s as access points or repeaters? Can I set up an AIMesh with the four of them on the property? (There is a shed I'll be turning into a recording space, and want to put one of them in there.) What are my options? I look forward to any help you can provide. Thank you for reading. [link] [comments]  |
| Issues with Netgear and Default Comcast Modem Posted: 02 May 2021 07:00 PM PDT I have a netgear r7800 that I had working in perfect order on ATT. Recently, I switched to Comcast for better speeds as ATT fiber just wont come down my country road unfortunately. I am having issues getting the full speed out of the r7800 though. Using just the basic Comcast modem/router setup I get 970mb down and 40 up. With my netgear, if I am lucky i get 93mb and 40mb up for some reason. I put the comcast into bridge mode with the hopes of using the r7800 again as it has a larger broadcast range that helps with smart home features. Things I have tried. Disabled QOS and then set 1000gb download and upload speed. Changed the channels around and then tried just using the smart switch feature. I also did notice the performance optimization data base is way out of date but will not update now for some reason. Resets upon resets but nada. Any help is appreciated this dam thing is getting annoying! [link] [comments]  |
| Routing to separate devices on separate interfaces each with same IP? Posted: 02 May 2021 06:14 PM PDT I hope someone has an idea, I feel like this should be possible but I don't know how or what it would be called. I'd like to find a way to monitor the signals/status of modems on both ISPs but unfortunately both use 192.168.100.1 diagnostic address. Is there some way to configure a router so one of them could use a "fake" IP (don't really care what...say 192.168.200.1) and the router re-routes that to a specific interface to the correct IP so a client on my LAN could reach the status page on BOTH of the modems on-demand? Diagram: Changing the IPs is out of the question as the modem config is managed by the ISPs, not configurable by me. They have their own separate DHCP address space for Internet so no conflict there, but for *STATUS* they both use the common 192.168.100.1 address. [link] [comments]  |
| Question to shorten a local domain with an other local domain Posted: 02 May 2021 02:22 PM PDT Hey guys, I am new to networking so please be kind with answering my questions! I would like to solve following problem: I installed a weather station where I can see my weather data. But to enter this local (IP) domain, I have to enter a pretty long IP address + port + directories (like https://111.222.333:32422/foo/foo) . Is there a easy solution to just enter a e.g. weather.local and then it will redirect me to this website? I read something about /etc/hosts to add there a line, but I don't thing this the right way because it's about IP addresses and this is a local domain. Also read something about Pihole's local DNS record, but same story, IP addresses a required and I just want to enter a shorten domain instead of the long one. So I am running this weather station via iobroker, maybe there is some setting? Of course there is always the trick to just save the URL in my browser but if I want to browse that website with an other device it requires also the domain, so if anybody knows, if there is an easy way to do it, I would be very happy! Thanks a lot! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 May 2021 05:32 PM PDT Hi, first post here! I was looking to upgrade my current network at my home. Currently, my setup goes like this: I was planning to go like this: (all cable are cat 5e and as seen above I plan to use the n750 as a 'WAP') Can I get a layer 2 switch and be alright without a router ? or should I buy a 'router + layer 2 switch' ? or check for a layer 3 switch instead? Should I get myself a dedicated firewall (enterprise firewall / old pc converted into a firewall) or the switch setting will be enough? Is an upgrade worth it with my current setup (is the NetGear enough for a couple of devices and in the future some basic home server (backup, camera))? For the network switch, I was looking for something with full gigabit ports, not too expensive (keep in mind I am in Quebec, Canada so shipping may be a concern), and not too loud. I found these I don't know which is better (and if there something better) / something to look out for since I never bought anything like that on eBay before. Linksys SE3024 (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124497860665?hash=item1cfca69839:g:NdYAAOSwYRtgfQ5E) HP ProCurve 1810-24G J9450A (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/114749312588?hash=item1ab7978e4c:g:ZFMAAOSwd49gZdx1) Cisco SG100-24 (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/184704397885?hash=item2b013d723d:g:YSgAAOSwAQJgSSVY#viTabs_0) TrendNet TPE-TG160g (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/203340703156?hash=item2f580ce5b4%3Ag%3AWc4AAOSwOaBgb2BN&LH_BIN=1) TrendNet TEG-S24g (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/114368733371?hash=item1aa0e860bb:g:1ukAAOSwaHZfQAhO) I have some basic experience with Cisco command line so having a switch with no UI and only a command line but some documentation won't bother me. Thanks for any suggestion and have a great day! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 May 2021 04:57 PM PDT Hi all, I finally have a 1Gb FTTH (not really getting all that, just around 700Mbps but whatever), the router (Fritz!Box 7530) is at ground level, I'd like to have 5GHz wi-fi coverage everywhere, so this is what I plan to do: -1 Ethernet cable (~10m) down to the basement -1 Ethernet cable (~10m) up to the first floor - Access points connected to each - From the AP on first floor, 1 more short Ethernet cable going to my desktop PC. I'm looking at possibile access points on Amazon, would these routers work fine? They support AC1200, MU-MIMO, and have Gb ports for connecting the PC. Is that enough or I should look for any other specs too? https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07Z7NY23Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_09DM21CNFV90CK0K1CZ1 I plan on using Cat6 or Cat7 cables, the price looks roughly the same, I heard copper ones are better than CCA, is that actually noticeable? I don't know much about networking, anything I may have overlooked, please let me know. Any suggestions are welcome! Thanks in advance [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 May 2021 04:44 PM PDT Hey everyone. I was looking for some advise on equipment. I want to add a firewall, storage server, security cameras and APs. I am in the process of upgrading cat5e to cat6a. I currently have an HP DL380P G8 and firmware is a nightmare to get. So I was looking to get rid of it and try my hand on a cluster of smaller nodes. My current WiFi router is the Asus GT-AX11000, it works well but I don't get Wifi outside to manipulate smart garage doors. The boxes I've seen recommended for OPNSense or Sophos UTM have all been around the same price of the UDM Pro. I'm studying for my CCNA to get into cloud computing and wish to know what everyone's recommendations are for things mentioned above. I've been recommended to get a qotom box for the firewall but wasn't sure if there were better options. As for the storage server, i was looking at Chenbro NR12000s, Dell R720XD or the 730X D, or the Quanta SD1Q-1ULH 1u 12bay. The cameras I haven't really been given many recommendations aside from management gui BlueIris. Thank you! [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for help with the network Posted: 02 May 2021 04:38 PM PDT Hey everyone, currently we have the modem/router (a Netgear RAX50) set up in one very far corner of the house. Unfortunately the location of these cannot be changed. The issue we are having is the devices on the very far opposite corner (TV/Consoles/Chromecast/etc) are struggling to connect at times and generally having issues. What is my best option to go around fixing this? Ideally I would like to eventually get ethernet ran across the house but I do not have the time. Is there something I can do to fix the issues in the meantime? Lower latency is preferred because of the gaming side of things. I've heard mesh networks may help but I am unsure. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 May 2021 04:24 PM PDT Hi friends, need your help and advice on an issue which I am not able to find a solution. I have a 60mbps FTTH connection at home, on my laptop through wifi its giving me the same bandwidth (upload & download) which they offered. But at the same time getting half of the bandwidth (30 to 40mbps) on my Android phone. Tested with 3 different android phones but result is same. Tired of searching in google. Non of them are working for me. Any valuable solution is appreciated. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Do you have SSL / HTTPS for IPMI, Proxmox, TrueNAS, and other servers? Posted: 02 May 2021 04:04 PM PDT Hello Friends, I did some preliminary research on the HTTPS/SSL process. I understood that an SSL certificate can't be issued for private IP addresses or local servers such as TrueNAS, Proxmox, or IPMI. If that's the case, why are some then using self-certified SSLs - is it needed from a security standpoint? Is it because of the cost?
Appreciate your thoughts and suggestions! [link] [comments]  |
| New router won't connect wirelessly Posted: 02 May 2021 03:56 PM PDT I have this issue where I am un able to use my new, faster router and I don't know why, attached is a floorplan to clearly describe the problem that I am having. If anyone has any suggestion that would be greatly appreciated https://ibb.co/6B8d8PV [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 May 2021 09:56 AM PDT Going to be relocating a coax line and the current one is too short. Before I l buy whatever monoprice has is there any real difference between brands? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 May 2021 03:37 PM PDT Even with the router gargoyle firmware reset back to default I can't access dslreports. I need to access it. Anyone know how to solve this issue? Edit: My ISP is ATT are they having a bit of an issue maybe? I can't access it on my phone either on wifi but when I use my mobile data I can reach dslreports. Edit: Also happens when connecting computer straight to the modem when it didn't before. Problem on isp end? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 May 2021 09:37 AM PDT Hello everyone, we have bought a new construction home (3 levels 4 bed with finished basement)and have reached the planning for the low voltage wiring. Just looking for some advice so I don't make errors in the planning. I currently have a data point added in the main room for the TV, one in the master bedroom and another in another bedroom that will be used as a home office. These are all standard. I have then upgraded to cat6, added a surround sound pre wire to the basement and a bigger cabinet in the mechanical room. I'm wondering should I add an access point (pre wire or full install) between the main level and the upstairs as the modem and router will be in the basement? Also where should I add any other data points? In the garage? Behind the fridge? Trying to future proof as much as possible but don't want to waste money. Also feeling that if I add the access point then I probably don't need extra ports as the wifi should be strong enough to cope. Any advice would be most welcome. Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 May 2021 02:48 PM PDT I can't wire my new place, so I bought a google mesh system. Does this allow me to use another router or can I only use the 3 "pucks" that come with it? I'd prefer to use my main router and use the other 3 elsewhere. [link] [comments]  |
| Internet speed varies massively on Windows computer (from less than 1mb up to 40mb) Posted: 02 May 2021 01:48 PM PDT Hi, I have 40mb internet and consistently get that on other devices including my wife's MacBook Pro, iMac, our TV and both of our phones, but my computer is all over the place and regularly runs very slowly. I'm using the internal network card on my MSI B460M PRO-VDH WIFI motherboard. I don't think it's a problem with the WiFi card necessarily because I get the same problem when using a USB WiFi stick (and had the same problem on my old Windows 10 computer too). Here it is running at the normal speed speed: https://i.imgur.com/Sm1uN3v.png And at other times it struggles to get even 1mb: https://i.imgur.com/dvSxCcW.png The screenshots were taken moments apart after I reconnected to WiFi and was downloading something from Steam whilst also streaming from YouTube. A Google speed test also confirms the speed to be lower than 1mbps. I thought maybe it was to do with 2.4GHz or 5GHz, but I've just setup my network to have different SSIDs and even connected to the 5Ghz network with almost full strength signal I'm only getting less than 1mb currently. Trying to stream YouTube at even 480p buffers a lot :( Any ideas what else I can try please? [link] [comments]  |
| 3 pack Orbi RBK753S or 3 individual Linksys MR9610 for mesh system? Posted: 02 May 2021 01:15 PM PDT I am moving to a ~3000sqft 2 story house with ~6000sqft lot. I am debating between at 3 pack Orbi RBK753S for $400 after coupon from Costco or Or buy 3x Linksys MR9610 that will be on sale for $150 each so $450 total and setup mesh network. Which option would be better bang for the buck? ISP speed will be 1 Gigabit. The most network intensive applications would probably be VR streaming like Virtual Desktop or Oculus Air Link, file transfer with NAS, some Plex 4k streaming, and possibly console games streaming in the future. Waiting for 6E won't be an option, since I am moving in about a month and my current router is not enough to cover the house. [link] [comments]  |
| NID: What's wrong with this picture? (xpost from r/cablefail) Posted: 02 May 2021 09:24 AM PDT We just moved to a new house in a rural area where DSL is our only internet option. The technician from Windstream came out to check the wiring and said it's ready to go. But our Netgear DSL modem gets no DSL signal at all from any jack in the house OR from the test jacks in the NID. Nothing, no DSL light at all. I've been trying to figure out the wiring in the NID (good guy technician left the TELCO side open), but nothing I try works. The photos are how it was set up when I first looked in there. The jack that I'm fairly certain is the primary in the house is wired with two pairs, a blue pair and an orange pair. There's one other jack that I'm not sure about, which is four-color (black, yellow, red, green). Can anyone tell me what I'm missing?? Edit 2: Just bought a used Windstream-approved bonded DSL modem on Amazon. Will update when it gets here. Also, the technician is coming back out in the next 2 days to recheck the wiring. Fingers crossed! [link] [comments]  |
| WiFi router - is it time to upgrade? Posted: 02 May 2021 01:08 PM PDT I currently have a "N900 WIRELESS DUAL BAND GIGABIT ROUTER" Netgear router. I think the router first came on the market 10 years ago and it's no longer even sold my Netgear because it's so old. I'm actually happy with the speed I get still, but I'm wondering if there are any concerns (security, etc.) with having a router this old and if it is time to upgrade? [link] [comments]  |
| How can I best figure out coax PoE in home? Posted: 02 May 2021 12:18 PM PDT Essentially we want to use MoCA in order to hardwire in the guest house. However, I looked at the MDU and it's a pretty big mess. A ton of coax connections and it's incredibly difficult to discern what is what, as the previous owner did not label anything. I know there's a TII box outside as well that appears to run some coaxial cables, but have not opened it up just yet due to not having the tools readily available (this is my gf's mom's house). [link] [comments]  |
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