Home Networking Electrical Interference Concern |
- Electrical Interference Concern
- New Network Gear Installed
- College student with basically no home networking experience - need help buying modem and router
- Modem and router recommendations for Xfinity
- AT&T Fiber with AirPort Extreme?
- unifi network vlan plan
- Moved into my in-laws home and want to setup an ethernet wire well enough as to not be in the way and without nail-in cable clips.
- brand new home with fios, ethernet outlets not working
- Aunt's house got struck by lighting, don't know why DHCP won't work in some areas.
- FIOS Internet only (ONT->Coax->Moca?)
- Linksys Velop on clearance.
- How many downstream channels for I need for an apartment of 7 people?
- Should I update my current modem?
- Can I drill a hole through my wall. Ethernet from router to desktop computer?
- Minecraft server on IPv6
- Which router to buy?
- LAN port not working in house
- Modem and router negotiate 100Base-TX over Cat6 instead of 1000Base-T
- Update. Eero Pro Wifi System is on sale through Amazon. 3 Pro's or 1 Pro and 2 Beacons. 3 Google pucks I can get similar price. What to do?
- Looking to replace my malfunctioning Netgear R7000.
- Problems while tunneling the connection of my Nintendo Switch with Wireguard and iptables NAT
- Used Linksys Router
- Looking for a new router for a small appartment
- Non-working Ethernet jack -- quick fix?
- Dependable Gigabit Switch???
| Electrical Interference Concern Posted: 18 Aug 2019 09:27 AM PDT Seeking some advice about wiring. Brand new home was just completed June 2019. Cable internet (200 meg down connection) and cable television service is provided by Suddenlink. Problem: at random time intervals the cable modem will drop the internet connection. It will power cycle itself until the connection is reestablished. I have purchased 4 different cable modems (Arris 6190, Orbi Mesh w/ modem, Netgear 500, currently Arris 6183) AND 3 different wireless routers/ mesh systems (Orbi, Eero, currently Netgear nighthawk AC4000) . I can definitely say the issue is not related to hardware. Every time the modem was changed, I contacted my ISP to register the new MAC address of the device. They would register the device and reset it to make sure the connection is solid. I went to the event log of the cable modem and noticed several "time outs". After researching time outs, they were attributed to poor cable connections. I walked the connection from the alley -> demarcation box -> attic-> splitting box in garage -> modem/router cabinet. All connections at splitters were tight. While I was in the attic, I noticed several locations where the Romex electrical lines are within 2 to 3 inches of coaxial lines. Sometimes the romex would be on top of the coaxial lines. Is it possible for the electrical lines to be interfering with the internet signal being transmitted thru the coax lines? I know the coax lines have quite a bit of insulation to block out this type of interference. If this interference is the issue, is there an insulating product I can purchase to fix it? One of the problems I will encounter is the power lines are very tight with little slack to move around. Thanks! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 06:20 PM PDT Spent all day getting everything moved and installed. Still have some admin work to do but everything is working. Ubiquiti USG, 2 switches, 3 APs. Hardwire to the 4K TV, printers, a few computers and surveillance systems. The APC UPS up top is highly recommend. I've had two modems and several routers get zapped over the years. The UPS has a great surge protection system and clean power. Even protects from the cable line. And it gives an hour of backup power. Worth every penny to protect the investment in equipment. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| College student with basically no home networking experience - need help buying modem and router Posted: 18 Aug 2019 05:11 PM PDT Hi all, I am a college student and I need to set up internet in my new apartment (1000 sq. ft., one other housemate, at least 2 devices needing wifi at a given time). I think we have to go with xfinity and I am considering their cheapest plan (25 mbps). First of all, is this decent for two people? I just checked my home's internet speed and it's about 20 and it works fine for a family of 3. Second of all, I need to buy a modem and router. Xfinity offers a 2 in 1 for like an extra $13/mo but I already don't trust that company and don't want to give them more of my money. After doing some quick googling, people keep saying don't get a 2 in 1. Why is that? If anyone has had experience with a 2 in 1, can you recommend me some good ones? Otherwise, how can I go about choosing a good modem and router? I have a Best Buy near my new place or I guess I can order on Amazon but that would take time. Mind you I am in college so my budget is limited and I am only staying at this apartment for a year so I don't need any devices that are "long term investments." Cheap (or reasonably priced) but reliable devices would be preferred, if possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Modem and router recommendations for Xfinity Posted: 18 Aug 2019 05:02 PM PDT I'm looking for a modem and router to get setup with Xfinity in my new apartment. Our service is 100mbps down, and my girlfriend and I will mostly be using internet for gaming and streaming movies. I would like to get some hardware recommendations for options I have for something that might be cheaper than paying almost $15/month for Comcast's hardware for the year we'll be here, or maybe even something to invest in now that will be good to use for years to come. Thanks all for your help! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| AT&T Fiber with AirPort Extreme? Posted: 18 Aug 2019 02:34 PM PDT I recently switched from Xfinity to AT&T's 1000Mbps Fiber home internet. Previously, I'd used an AirPort Extreme for my router and was very happy with it. While the AT&T speeds are good, the WiFi capabilities of their included all-in-one device are a bit frustrating. Sometimes the internet will hang and I've found that it helps to restart it about once a week: something I very rarely had to do with my AirPort. Would it make sense to use my AirPort for wireless instead and just use the AT&T device as the modem? Is this possible? I typically have about 30 devices connected to the WiFi and my home is pretty compact (main floor & downstairs) at about 1400 sq ft. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 06:12 AM PDT Hi guys, I was not sure where to post, here or over at r/unifi. I am about to order my unifi network gear for my home. What I am wanting is:-
I have setup the vlan's correctly? Is there anything I would need to change or add? This is plan of the layout - Here Wired Networks
Wireless Networks:
Thanks [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 11:51 AM PDT Hey everyone. I searched a bit through the sub but couldn't find exactly what my situation entails. i also have a lot going on what with a baby and school tomorrow, so I didnt have time to deep dive to find a solution. I'm sorry for this, but if you'd bare with me, I'd love some help here. I'm not really a DIY person, but I've moved into my in-law's home and since I have set up my pc in the basement, I've ordered a 200ft cat6 cable to connect to the modem upstairs in the living room. The problem is that I wanna keep it along the walls and down/up the stairs so it's not in anyone's way, and I don't want to use nail-in cable clips if I don't have to, so I came here to find out a cost efficient way to do it. I'm not experienced running cables along the wall and especially down stairs (to add insult to injury, the stairs are padded for kids so there's a notable bump on each step. My goal is to run it along in such a way that it's barely if noticeable. I've included an imgur album of the route in case you guys need an idea of what I have to work with I'd love to know what cost effective materials or methods I need to use to make this happen, and I apologize for my ignorance. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| brand new home with fios, ethernet outlets not working Posted: 18 Aug 2019 04:15 PM PDT My family recently moved into a new town house that just finished construction a week ago. The fios tech came in yesterday and installed the ONT and router. Wifi works just fine, but connecting the ethernet port into the wall from the first port on the router doesnt provide internet connection. Am I missing something here? The tech didnt say anything about coax so I am wondering if i need a cable for that hooked into the wall from the router for ethernet to work. He did say however that two ports in the net.media center box were not working and that it should have been on the same floor or something(its upstairs). He also said that there could be too little slack going into the room where the ONT is which i dont understand because he connected it just fine. Additionally he said that the ethernet cables may have been stapled or severed when the house was being built which just screams bad news. the media center also isnt labled as for what outlet is for which room. Another note is that the tech used cat 5 cables but the center has a cat 6 module, would that affect connectivity? Any idea on what to do? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Aunt's house got struck by lighting, don't know why DHCP won't work in some areas. Posted: 17 Aug 2019 10:23 PM PDT I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, I didn't see anything against anything like this in the sidebar. Aunt's farmhouse got struck by lighting, and it killed her router and nanostation m5 coming from her house. The guy that set it up originally is now not alive, and no one knows the passwords to any of the 10 ubiquiti devices she has around her farm. Because the one that got struck is the one that connected all the other ones, I had to reset and reconfigure each of the 5 nanostation/loco M5's, two ubiquiti POE switches, and the two PicoStation M2's around her multiple barns. Everything is working, EXCEPT DHCP at the most important barn (it has specialized feeding machines that require internet for full functionality), and I'm completely stumped. When you try to connect a new device either through Ethernet through the ubiquiti switch or through wireless to the PicoStation access point, you get stuck on 'obtaining IP address'. When I go to my network adapter settings and assign myself a 192.168.1.x IP address, it works great- as fast as the 10 mbps connection at her house, at least. I can access any device IP web interface from any location, including the router the DSL comes in at, everything can 'talk' as it should, it seems. Here's a quick map I just drew up in visio for this post. It's not accurate in scale or orientation of equipment to each other, but I don't think that matters for a DHCP problem. https://i.imgur.com/kH1TX59.jpg Underlined in green are end-user connectable devices that work as they should, underlined in red are end-user connectable devices that get stuck on 'obtaining IP address', but work normally when you give yourself a static IP. I'm not going to lie I'm more of a developer- networking is not my strong point. It's very possible I'm missing something simple or that the network I setup is not the way a 'professional' would. Any help would be greatly appreciated. . UPDATE: Fixed. Someone in /r/ubiquiti said to make sure 'WDS mode' was checked on all the NanoStations. This fixed it right away. Here's an explanation I found of what exactly that check box does. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| FIOS Internet only (ONT->Coax->Moca?) Posted: 18 Aug 2019 06:37 PM PDT I'm ditching cable and switching to FIOS internet only... When I get the FIOS box installed I won't be able to run Ethernet from the ONT to the router's location. I need to somehow connect the FIOS box to the Linksys Velop via the coax connection next to the router (similar to my cable modem setup) Would I be able to do this by simply buying a ActionTec MI424WR and connect that to the coax connection and route Ethernet from that to my Linksys Velop? I'm seeing more expensive solutions where I need to put MOCA adapters on either side, but questioning if that is necessary? Thoughts? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 06:35 PM PDT The store I work at, has the Linksys Velop, model# WHW0102, on clearance for $50. It is the 2 pack. Currently I use a modem/router combo through my internet company. They charge me $5 a month for the router(which I would love to stop paying.) I've done some research and I see a lot of people saying there's better options for mesh routers, but I'm looking at this price point and wondering if it may be worth it? Would be my first router purchase since like 2011. We stream Netflix, Hulu, podcasts and what not. I video game a good bit, some online homework for college. We live in a two story house. My room upstairs is sometimes iffy on the wifi strength, the modem is downstairs in the living room. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| How many downstream channels for I need for an apartment of 7 people? Posted: 18 Aug 2019 05:58 PM PDT So I'm moving into an apartment soon and I'm looking at the Arris Surfboard SBG7400AC2 and it has 16 downstream channels and 4 upstream channels. Would this be enough for normal usage of the the internet? As some background info, of the 7 of us, only 2-3 casually game and everyone else usually uses it for stuff like Netflix or YouTube. My internet plan is currently 150 mbps but I'm looking to upgrade to 250 in the near future. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Should I update my current modem? Posted: 18 Aug 2019 05:46 PM PDT I currently have a Motorola SURFboard model SB6120 DOCSIS 3.0 Thanks [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Can I drill a hole through my wall. Ethernet from router to desktop computer? Posted: 18 Aug 2019 05:31 PM PDT two dry walls seperated about 3 inches of whatever's between Ideally i wouldn't like much noise transfer between the rooms (ie mantain my privacy, so no massive holes) I have a drill, not very good with my hands but I know not to drill by the electric outlet, and have a stud finder. Any videos to put this all together, to help? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 05:23 PM PDT Hello, I want to make a minecraft server for my friends and I so we can play minecraft together. I have spent hours with port forwarding but cannot get it to work. I started reading about networking and noticed that there are not enough IPv4 addresses to go around. So my ISP is reusing public IP's and this means I cannot open port 25565. I tried calling them but they refuse to give me a new IP or change my current one. I have tried VPNs such as OpenVPN but i'm not a big fan of linux. There are companies selling IPv4 addresses but I do not want to use them. The last option that I found is IPv6. I read that IPv4 has only about 4 billion combinations, but IPv6 has trillions. Here are my questions: Is it possible to get a IPv6 as your public IP address Would port forwarding for IPv6 be the same as IPv4 Would people joining my server have to do anything on their end Does minecraft actually support IPv6 addresses Thank you [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 04:07 PM PDT am not a tech illiterate or so to speak but when it comes to networking its not something I put a lot of time studying or researching there is a weird phenomena with routers I buy , I don't buy the expensive kinds but usually. 70-80 dollar router, I have owned so far a net gear, cisco, Dlink(the worst out of the bunch) and tp link and its like they are all programmed to fail after 1.5-2 years for some reason. they start dropping wifi and wired connection for 10-15 minutes at a time a few times a week or sometimes a few times a day. I keep my routers out in the open in a room so its not like its a heat issue. its really strange! is there a router brand that doesn't suffer from this problem?. like a business router company maybe?. can I use a ubiquiti access point as a router for my intends and purposes of just using wifi in home and maybe a few wired connections? I guess I can use a switch for the wired part and the two combined would effectively be a router for me? thanks. I don't need ac wireless speed. 600 Mbps dual band is good enough. single band works too. these things just bother the hell out of me because every router I buy again starts to drop connection and no amount of resetting, changing settings or following guides. or even installing a custom firmware does anything. its always after the warranty ends too. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 03:04 PM PDT I recently moved to a new home and the LAN port in our downstairs family room isn't working. All the other ports in the house work. Is there any way to troubleshoot this and resolve on my own? Or what kind of professional would I need to contact to get it sorted out? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Modem and router negotiate 100Base-TX over Cat6 instead of 1000Base-T Posted: 18 Aug 2019 08:42 AM PDT Hi r/HomeNetworking! I recently upgraded my cable modem and I'm experiencing a strange issue with ethernet auto negotiation in one configuration, and I could use some help. When I connect my pfSense router1 to the XB3 modem2 using a 50ft Cat6 ethernet cable3, they negotiate 100Base-TX (FastEthernet). If I switch out any one of those three components, the two devices negotiate 1000Base-T (Gigabit Ethernet). I don't think it's the cable because if I add a dumb switch in the middle, I can get a gigabit connecting using the 50ft cable. It's only when all three components are connected directly together that there is a problem. Here's a diagram of what I've tried so far, and in text form:
Just in case you are wondering why I need to use a 50ft Cat6 cable when a 5ft Cat5e cable should work, it's because my network equipment is in a cabinet in the closet, but the nearest coaxial cable connection is in the next room over, about 20ft away, which comes out to about 30ft after cable management. The T620Plus is running pfSense, using the stock re) driver for the Realtek R8169 Gigabit Ethernet port with the carrier mode set to autoselect. (Manually setting the mode to 1000Base-T does not work.) The only other port on my router is a 10Gig SFP+ which connects to my switch using a twinax DAC cable, so the one GigE port is all I've got. My current workaround of adding the dumb switch in the middle to act like an ethernet frame repeater is working, but it seems silly to have it there. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 08:30 AM PDT I've received a LOT of great information on here. I've posted about this the past few days. Plus word of mouth plus called both Google and Eero customer support to test both out. If all the same for a 3,000 square foot L-Shape home with the router needing to go in the back and not a ton of smart devices (yet) which to go with? And in what format? 3 Eero Pro's and 3 Google Pucks both say they cover 4,500 square feet and I definitely don't want any signal issues or overkill as some on here have rightfully warned me about. If 2 Pro's or 2 Google Pucks are enough is there a benefit to having the 3rd in a home with no hardwiring? If I go Eero do I start small with 2 Pro's and add a beacon later? I know the 1 Pro/2 package option is popular but I just want the most stable. I have Spectrum 400mbps and could go to gig speed but would it really be a benefit to me? I've looked into all the other very powerful wifi mesh systems and it's definitely down to these 2 (for now). Of course as technology changes I could very well move on to a more powerful base system in the next 12-24 months. I need for my family simplicity (when I'm not around) stability, security of our network, and support (customer if necessary) which at the very least it "seems" both of these systems excel at. This is my foundation before home security and smart home hub so I have been back and fourth for weeks looking at all the different routers/systems. Eero's support (from what I can tell personally) seems fantastic and I put it a little above Google. I am as many can probably tell only a novice trying to learn for myself and my family. Advice? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Looking to replace my malfunctioning Netgear R7000. Posted: 18 Aug 2019 02:21 PM PDT I have a 2 year old Netgear R7000 that is seriously malfunctioning. It keeps randomly crashing and restarting itself several times a day. I've tried the latest firmware, the firmware everyone says is stable, multiple factory resets, etc. I'm done with it. I see the Netgear R7800 is supposed to be a good router, but I'm hesitant to buy another Netgear at this point. I see Asus has a rt86u router, but the reviews on Amazon are seriously scaring me. I used to have the n66u and it was the best router I've ever had before a lightning strike took it out. I'll never do business with Linksys again (long story), so they are right out. My place is small, only about 900 square feet. I don't need a mesh system. My internet is only 100megs but I wouldn't mind getting a router that is capable of gigaspeed since you never know when I might want to upgrade. Is the Asus rt86u worth the risk, despite the reviews? It'd be my preference but again those Amazon reviews are seriously scaring me off right now. If there is a better option I'm open to it. Thanks in advance! Edit: Thanks! I ordered the Asus rt86u after all and it arrives to tomorrow. [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Problems while tunneling the connection of my Nintendo Switch with Wireguard and iptables NAT Posted: 18 Aug 2019 02:09 PM PDT Hello there fellow HomeNetworkers, First off, here's the problem I'm trying to solve:My ISP (M-Net in Germany) uses dual-stack lite (sharing an IPv4 address with other people with NAT on the ISP side), and that's kind of a bummer, since I got myself a Nintendo Switch recently, and its online matchmaking works via IPv4 and on a P2P basis. (My connection results in NAT Type D) My ISP would offer an IPv4 option, but that's just way too pricy with ~80€ for the first year. Since I also have a VPS (with a dedicated IPv4 address) I thought I could just tunnel my connection through it, since that would give me all the freedom I could ever ask for. The problemLast weekend I was able to play Smash Bros. Ultimate online almost perfectly with this setup, now it stopped working (Error Code 2155-8007 or 2124-8007). The eShop also did not work for the entire time (Error Code 2811-1028). The connection test however passes just fine (with NAT Type B, which is perfectly fine), and when I use the same tunneling setup with my Windows Laptop instead of the Switch, it works fine for web browsing (only had a timeout 1-2 times). I tried to troubleshoot with Wireshark, but sadly my networking skills are just not enough for pinpointing the exact issue. When the eShop gives up on connecting, some SSL Handshake gets retransmitted a few times. When using the local connection instead of tunneling it (while still using my PC as a gateway with Source NAT), the eShop just works fine (except it results in NAT Type D again which affects gameplay). How would I go about troubleshooting this any further? Is my setup wrong from a conceptual standpoint or did I just crew up the configuration? My current setupConsole > my pc (SNAT) > Wireguard > server (SNAT) > internet ConsoleSince the Switch doesn't support Wireguard on its own, I am using my PC as a gateway for that. The DNS servers are 1.1.1.1 and 8.8.8.8. PC + WireguardAs I said, my PC functions as a gateway. 192.168.1.50 is my Nintendo Switch on the local network. 192.168.42.2 is my PC's address in the VPN, 192.168.42.1 is my server's VPN IP. My PC is running Arch Linux. The following is the wg-quick config I use to launch my client: (switchnatclient.conf) The Table=1 puts all the automatically generated entries of wg-quick (routing 0.0.0.0/0 via the VPN) onto table 1 as well, so that only the connection of the console are routed through the VPN and the internet connection of my PC does not get affected. ServerMy Server is running Ubuntu Server 18.04 LTS Again the wg-quick config (switchnatserver.conf) Thanks in advance to anybody trying to help ^^ [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 01:36 PM PDT Hey everyone, So a bit of an amateur question but I just want some peace of mind. I recently moved out and a friend of mine gave me an extra router of his he had in his house. I moved into my new place and I have my own internet now and modem but I'm using this router with the same settings and everything. Call me paranoid but I just want to make sure that he's not able to remote access or spy on what I'm doing. I live across the country now. Am I overthinking things? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Looking for a new router for a small appartment Posted: 18 Aug 2019 09:30 AM PDT Around 2 years ago i bought ubiquiti amplifi for my parents house (as a standalone router, no mesh), it's been very dependable, the iphone app is great, overall i'm pretty happy with it. I'm going to have around 10-20 devices connected at a time, all the time, some using 2.4, some 5ghz. Also I need the separate wifi for my guests. Im wondering if should i buy the same one for a small studio today in 2019? Are there any other products with similar over all experience as amplifi that i should consider? [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Non-working Ethernet jack -- quick fix? Posted: 18 Aug 2019 01:01 PM PDT I've done the research online and in this sub, and I think I've got the answer -- but I wanted to turn to the home experts to be sure. I've got about four non-working Ethernet ports scattered around my home. They haven't worked since I moved in two years ago, and I always assumed they just weren't hooked up. It never dawned on me to take the plate off and do some digging, and low-and-behold, they are all wired with yellow Cat5e cables. In the basement, it seems all the Cat5e cables terminate there, but rather than have an RJ-45 connector, the wire is slice open. The blue/white wires from the Cat5e then terminate at something that maybe looks like a phone device? The other wires from the Cat5e are simply wrapped around the cord. Here are three relevant pictures: https://imgur.com/a/GNw1SfU So to me, it looks like the following:
Is this basically the gist of it? Anything else I should know/be aware of? And if I did pay a professional to do this, 1) what type of professional would I be looking for and 2) how much would this cost as the wires are already run and only the connector needs to be added and the crimping (?) needs to be done. Many thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 18 Aug 2019 09:07 AM PDT Looking for a dependable gigabit switch with around 5-8 ports. Link products if you can. Thanks in advance. Another question is it better to have Cat 5e or Cat 6? [link] [comments]  |
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