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    Sunday, July 11, 2021

    Home Networking [PSA] Amateurs, please check the WAN/LAN port specifications before buying a router or wireless access point. DON'T just look at the Wi-Fi speeds.

    Home Networking [PSA] Amateurs, please check the WAN/LAN port specifications before buying a router or wireless access point. DON'T just look at the Wi-Fi speeds.


    [PSA] Amateurs, please check the WAN/LAN port specifications before buying a router or wireless access point. DON'T just look at the Wi-Fi speeds.

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 07:48 AM PDT

    This is most likely a fact that most of the people in this sub already knows. But, if there are any amateurs/noobs like me, I am posting this so that hopefully you see it and don't make the same mistake as I did.

    Last year, I bought a TP-Link AC1350 router. The marketed speeds via Wi-Fi were 450Mbps over 2.4GHz and 867Mbps over 5GHz. I saw that and thought that's future-proof enough for me, considering the state of internet services in my city/country. Now, after almost a year, I discover that all the LAN ports, including the WAN port, is capped at 10/100 Mbps. This means that even if I get a 200 Mbps or 300 Mbps connection from my ISP, my internet speeds will always be capped at 100 Mbps as long as I use this router. It doesn't matter if the Wi-Fi can handle 867 Mbps + 450 Mbps. The internet speeds will be capped at 100 Mbps because the source (WAN port) is capped at 100 Mbps. The same logic applies to LAN ports if you want to extend the network or have wired connections. Always check the WAN/LAN port specifications before you buy such devices.

    I can't believe that I fell for this marketing trick. I am kinda disappointed in myself, and can only blame myself for being negligent. The worst part is that I was trying to decide between this router and another router, which had Gigabit ports. That router was much better in other aspects too. But, I picked this huge ass clunky router due to it being a "high power router" with huge 9 dBi antennas, which was, by the way, another stupid mistake.

    TL;DR: Entry level routers and other devices will have their WAN/LAN ports capped at 10/100 Mbps. So, you will not be able to get internet speeds of over 100 Mbps, even if the Wi-Fi speeds are much higher.

    submitted by /u/blazincannons
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    Some appreciation

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 05:38 AM PDT

    Just a quick appreciation post to this sub because y'all helped me figure out MoCa and I plugged it all together yesterday and now I have my Eero Pro 6 mesh network running off a MoCa backbone and I'm getting ~400mbps from each node (my service is 400mbps) and I think I'm gonna cry 😂

    So thanks, everyone!

    submitted by /u/Jomolungma
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    R7000 Nighthawk Crapping out Looking For Replacement

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 06:56 PM PDT

    Hi everyone, here is my situation:

    I have a nighthawk r7000 that has been great until recently this month it has been regularly dropping connection wired and wifi. I know it is not the modem and not the ISP. I have read that these routers are prone to overheating when they start having these types of issues and living in the desert I usually keep a box fan on the router however I am beyond annoyed and looking for a replacement to the router.

    Here are how I use the router and my needs:

    My Speed is 400-500 down and 40up through Spectrum.

    At any given time there are 2 Desktop PCs wired connected, 1 Xbox wired, then 4 phones on wifi, and 3 smart TVs, and 4 laptops.

    The Desktops, 1 tv, and 1 Xbox are usually regularly being used and the phones.

    I don't want to go full wifi or use a mesh just want something that is a better version of the r7000, I don't care if it is Netgear or not just something that is going to last a while. I would also like to stay under $300.

    I have tried downgrading and upgrading the firmware of the r7000 and it is currently at 1.0.9.42 I was going to try a custom firmware but I am too newbie for that and dont want to brick the router as I do need it until I can get a replacement.

    Any suggestions would be super helpful!

    submitted by /u/CobraCommander187
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    Just setup a patch panel, cable tester showing weird results

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 08:48 PM PDT

    My house has cat5 cables running throughout that had been used for telephone before. I got a patch panel to convert these cables to be used for ethernet. Here is one test result from a cable tester. From the panel the tester skips lights 1-2-3-4 and lights up for 5-6-7-8. In the room that the cable connects to the tester lights up in this order 5-2-7-8.

    I tried stripping off more of the cable jacket and rewiring it on panel. I've also tried punching down the cable a few more times. Nothing has worked. Not sure what I did wrong. I lined up the wire colors according to the panel instructions. The keystone jack in the remote room has all 8 wires connected to it and it is in the 568B configuration.

    submitted by /u/shamaalama
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    CenturyLink VS dish business

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 08:38 PM PDT

    Hey guys so I just moved into a new apartment and they only offer 2 choices for providers. It wasn't the nicest of surprises I had already had a router/modem in mind for when I thought Xfinity would be here. However we can't get everything we want but I was just wondering overall, which of the two is the better option in terms of Speed, Price, and Device (modem) compatibility??

    submitted by /u/Similar_Cry_3121
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    Would tying up PC cables (Cat6/Coaxial networking, USB, AC power cords, etc.) in a loop/kink affect networking or electrical performance?

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 04:47 PM PDT

    https://imgur.com/a/lmtadsu

    In attempt to do some novice cable management, I tied up my outside cables with velcro ties. However, I am wondering about the ramifications and risks of tying them up in a method as depicted.

    For example, I have my Cat6/other network data cables (like Coaxial for cable internet), USB, AC power cords all tied up in the same fashion with rounded and semi-rounded kinks and bends. Would this degrade the cable longevity or cause performance issues?

    Would I see internet/connection spikes or issues with the Cat6 or coaxial -- like loss of packets or slightly reduced internet speeds? If so, is there a way to test for this?

    How about data transfer issues with my USB PC speakers/mouse/keyboard, or issues with wattage or amperage with the power cables?

    I am more concerned about the bending and kinking of such cables, especially for networking/internet and USB cables where I would prefer maximum performance. Just from a hypothetical standpoint, I am wondering if I should re-tie them up in a different way or loop.

    submitted by /u/msgidol
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    How to create a local WiFi network that uses a WiFi connection as source

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 10:23 PM PDT

    Hey all. I'm renting an apartment in a building that have a single WiFi network for all tenants. This causes some issues with devices talking to each other within this network.. link airdrop, chrome cast etc… I would like to have my own local private WiFi network based on a single connection to the main building WiFi. Is it possible to get a router that will connect wirelessly to the main network and create a sub private network for my devices? Any tips?

    submitted by /u/bar7b
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    Recommendations for Synology 4 Bay NAS system.

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 10:15 PM PDT

    Recommendations for Synology 4 Bay NAS system.

    I decided to get my first NAS system, so I bought a WD My Cloud and quickly realized it was trash so I returned it.

    After some research I've decided on Synology, but I'm having trouble deciding what model to get. Originally I was going to get a 2 Bay like the DS218 or DS220+, but with a 4 bay I have the ability to expand storage capability significantly.

    Basically it will be for Time Machine backup, movies/tv storage/streaming and a file server. I want to move everything from my computer and external drives to one secure location.

    I was thinking the DS418, DS420+ or DS920+. I don't know enough about it to know if the DS920+ is better in anyway that would benefit me.

    Hopefully my knowledge will grow as I use it, so I don't want to get something that isn't capable of my potential future needs, but I also don't want to spend extra money if there is no real benefit to me. I can invest that money in HDD's.

    submitted by /u/contrarianbynature
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    Finding a kink (just out of sight of a quick inspection) at one end of the cable just saved me from having to re-run the 50m length of cable through my walls and roof.

    Posted: 10 Jul 2021 10:27 PM PDT

    Typical me - jumped to the conclusion I'd broken or twisted the cable somewhere in the middle of the run I couldn't see.

    Was about to pull brand new cable through and thought I'd check how easy it would be to pull the new cable through using the old. Pulled the cable back at one end and found this.

    It was causing the port to flap - 1G/Half, 100/Full, off... then back around again.

    A quick re-termination and 1G/Full with PoE now working... [wipes brow]

    submitted by /u/scrytch
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    Is there a mesh system that doesn’t snoop on you?

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 08:48 PM PDT

    I'm looking to upgrade my single point Synology router to a new mesh node system compatible with WiFi 6 to increase the coverage in my home.

    I've read that most consumer level mesh routers are "cloud based" in that the manufacturer is capable of accessing certain (all?) aspects of your local network. While I can see that for most people this will be a benefit given that updates are performed automatically and troubleshooting is easier, I just don't like the idea of handing over my privacy in an age where hacking is rampant and we're increasingly working from home.

    Is there a system out there for the more privacy conscious consumer? I'd rank myself as fairly tech savvy, but networking is not my strong suit and I'd prefer something advanced but still consumer friendly and affordable to average home owner.

    I should mention I do have a Moca (ethernet over coax) network connecting three major points in my home that could potentially serve as a back haul.

    Any leads for manufacturers and/or products would be greatly appreciated!

    Or, if I'm barking up the wrong tree in an attempt to get better coverage, please let me know if I should consider something else entirely as I'm not completely up to date with the latest happenings in the home networking space.

    submitted by /u/therealroyalpickle
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    What has helped

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 08:34 PM PDT

    I've seen this happen several times What has helped . 1.creating a firewall rule to allow the Teams app. Firewall.cpl 2. Switching networks from IPV6 to IPV4. For some reason IPV6 messes with MS Teams calls It's shows high Jitter rates in the Teams Admin center and you get a lot of muffling and choppiness during the call. Switching network settings to IPV4 seems to do the trick . Good luck !

    submitted by /u/Houngan77
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    [Question] Are ethernet patch cables safe to run in attic ?

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 11:36 AM PDT

    Good afternoon,

    I am in the process of running some ethernet in my attic in SC, USA--previous owners only have coaxial and telephone. I was a little worried because I bought some 75-100ft patch cables, planned on running them across my attic and down into the walls to connect to wall plates. Would those be safe to stand up to attic temps ?

    I think the hottest it usually gets here is the low 90's, but I wasn't sure how much hotter the attic would be. From what I can find, +140°F is the maximum operating temp. Would that be okay or would the cable melt/degrade?

    Thanks

    submitted by /u/smellons
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    VNC SSH tunnel through PUTTY

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 04:25 PM PDT

    Hello, everyone!

    I've recently acquired a raspberry pi and have been messing around with ssh and vnc.

    I've successfully established an ssh connection from my pc to my pi and I've tunneled my vnc connection through - but I have one question.

    In putty, when I set the ssh tunnel source port to the default vnc port (5900) and the destination to (pi ip):5900 it works but it also works when I set the destination to localhost:5900

    To my understanding, the source port is the port that the information is being forwarded from but how do both destinations work?

    If someone could please describe in detail how they both differ, that'd be amazing! Thank you.

    submitted by /u/PurpleHippoes
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    Asus AC66U-B1 x 2 or AC86U

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 07:51 PM PDT

    I am currently using the modem + router combo provided by my ISP and it is giving me wifi dead spots in corners of my 2500 sq ft 2 storey house. Unfortunately the wiring forces me to have my router in one corner of the house.

    My internet speed is a modest 150Mbps up and down and we don't have many wifi 6 devices in the house. At this point I'm just looking to eliminate those wifi dead spots.

    Which of these two would be the better option? I read the AC86U provides more range than the AC66U-B1 but is it that much more such that it's noticeable? Are there any gotchas with running 2 AC66U-B1 routers using Merlin and Aimesh?

    submitted by /u/cuttingcheddar
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    How to open NAT

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 06:55 PM PDT

    How do I open nat on a safe link router been trying for a while now and I can't figure it out

    submitted by /u/HoudiniWTimbs
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    Faster ping response from router than MoCA device in front of router?

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 02:55 PM PDT

    I'm not having any issues with my network, this is more of a curiosity issue / wanting to understand networking more than I do. My router is an old Actiontec MI424WR. I have a few MoCA adapters being used to create my local wired network. They are Bonded 2.0 and 2.5, so the speeds between devices are 1 Gbps - 2.5 Gbps.

    When I ping the router from my wired PC, I get a response time of 3ms, rarely 4ms. When I ping the master MoCA device, which is connected to one of the router's Gigabit LAN ports, I get a more varied response time, but the average is usually 8 or 9ms.

    Shouldn't the response time from the router be longer, since the signal has to pass through more devices?

    submitted by /u/bootz-pgh
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    Recommend VLAN switch and AP (used vs new; consumer vs business)

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 02:49 PM PDT

    I need to upgrade my current network to support VLANs and I am asking for advice. I want to make my home network safe and I am willing to learn / put in some effort if needed.

    I am comfortable using used business grade equipment (1 gigabit is sufficient) if it is cost effective (tracking $/year, not initial cost + fairly low power usage), reliable and secure (continued software updates?). I also consider Unify equipment. I rather re-use equipment than purchase new but I want to ensure that whatever I but has a relatively long shelf life with low annual cost amortized over the lifespan of the product. I am a fan of open source with being able to re-use equipment. Hoping to spend no more than ~$200-$300 with potentially more later if required.

    My objective is to get advice on what you would do in my position.

    Current problems:

    • IoT can snoop on my network (does it? I do not know)
    • PVR is not secure (pretty sure Eufy Security camera in baby's room moved without us controlling so I unplugged it for now. Other camera is external.)
    • Dropped VOIP calls when I switch between 2 Asus AP nodes. Plan to have 1 AP to cover ~1000sqft or hopefully get equipment that manages AP node switch gracefully
    • Asus Router is patched but it is probably not quite as efficiently compared to OPNsense/OpenWRT/PFsense with more vulnerabilities.

    Requirements:

    VLANs:

    Separate guest network, IoT network w/ internet, IoT network w/o internet, PVR network w/o internet, unmanaged (all other equipment)

    Clients: smartphones, PC, smartTV, Google Mini, wifi security cameras (I will only add wired security cams moving forward), server [nas, nextcloud, home assistant], IoT devices [garage link, switches, sensors]

    Current network:

    • Internet speed: 60/5
    • Work from home 20% of the time.
    • No online gaming
    • ~20 clients total. It will most likely 2x-3x over the next 5 years
    • Basic video streaming
    • PiHole

    Proposed setup with a potential Unify option:

    • Router: Rasperry Pi3 via OpenWRT - connect to a managed switch
      • WAN and LAN (VLANs) on the same ethernet port OR potentially add USB dongle for WAN
        • Alternative option: Netgear N600 WNDR3700v2 running DD-WRT
        • Alternative option 2: Asus AC1900P but no VLAN support (not a good option)
        • May migrate to OPNsense [minipc] / faster hardware depending RP3 performance
      • Integrate PiHole controls to router through native options within OpenWRT
    • Switch: 16 Port POE Unify Lite switch / Cisco? / TPLink?
    • AP: / U6 - Lite / Cisco- this is the only device I currently need PoE but I will add additional

    Current home network setup:

    • No VLANs
    • Router with a mesh node: 2x Asus AC1900p - no VLANs support natively / Asus Merlin / other software
    • 16 port TP-Link unmanaged gigabit switch - I probably cannot use this I assume with VLANs, although some regular devices will not be on VLAN (PC, NAS)

    Budget:

    $200-$300. I believe I need a 16 port POE switch (8 POE + 8 nonPOE may work too). AP will be my first POE device but I will add 1 more in the fall.

    I am open to spending more over time. I believe I only need an AP and a managed switch at this point.

    submitted by /u/A2251
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    Improve range on a 4g sim card little usb modem?

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 06:29 PM PDT

    My parent have a small usb stick that has a sim card and gives wifi to their new house, but the range is really lacking and doesnt reach far in the house. I was thinking that it a router with a usb port that supports tethering or a router with a sjm card slot could fix this, but I dont really know which one and it really has to be as cheap as possible.

    Does anyone know how to do this?

    submitted by /u/blazethedragon
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    I need help with port forwarding

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 10:39 AM PDT

    I am trying to make a minecraft server for me and my friends and the problem is that the port is closed and i don't understand why. I have 2 routers and I followed the guide on portforward.com on port forwarding double router but it still doesn't work, I also made new inbound and outbound rules for the ports and I allowed minecraft in the firewall settings. I don't know anything else that I could try to make the port open.

    submitted by /u/IonJohn66
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    Does the Arris SB8200 work with Optimum? Anyone have experience?

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 02:06 PM PDT

    I've read online that some people use it with no issues and others say Optimum doesn't support it at all. I'm kind of confused and I already purchased it but didn't set it up yet. Optimum is in the middle of upgrading my house to 1gb speed at the moment and I don't wanna pay for the rental after it's set up.

    Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

    submitted by /u/certifiedjared
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    Jerry Rigged NAS

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 05:47 PM PDT

    I'm trying to get a NAS on my eero network, and I'm not a networking guru in the slightest. But I can tinker and jerry rig stuff with the best of them. I know this doesn't work because I just tried it, but why does it not work?

    I've plugged in an Anker dongle via ethernet to the switch that is connected to my gateway. I then put a USB drive into the dongle hoping it would show up as a network drive but it does not. Why wouldn't this work? I know.....I know, I'm buying a real NAS as we speak, just curious why my good ole boy shortcut doesn't work.

    submitted by /u/Maximum_Chicken5472
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    I need help with choosing a new router.

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 05:23 PM PDT

    Hey All,

    I recently moved and my internet is set up in the basement of the house. I have an ARRIS optimum modem with a standard optimum wireless router.

    I need a wireless router that can reach my room upstairs and I can use for my online Playstation gaming.

    Any recomendations on how to remedy this situation?

    submitted by /u/2Triill
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    Weird Issue with PPP/VDSL

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 05:11 PM PDT

    Hello all,

    I am using a Cisco 1921 with a VDSL card. It is using PTM over VDSL (with .1q tag) and PPPoE over this. I have an issue that the PPP connection will randomly be torn down and I cannot make it redial without completely rebooting the box. I think it is if L1 connectivity is lost, but I have tried numerus commands to debug this, including debugging PPP packet. No packets are seen once this issue occurs, as if the router is refusing to dial. Also tried shut/no shut on both the dialer and ethernet interface. IOS version 15.7(3)M4.

    Any advice would be appreciated, even if you just know of a few commands I could test which I may have overlooked.

    submitted by /u/JamieEC
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    How should I architect my home network VLAN/security configuration with all these devices?

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 11:02 AM PDT

    Y'all will have to forgive me for my ignorance here, or lead me in the right direction as to certain best practices if I seem like I'm just being ridiculous. I currently have a pfSense hardware firewall, a Meraki switch, and a Meraki WAP in my home. I also use Cloudflare for DNS and implementing policies (such as content filtering).

    I have the following items in my home:

    • Home PC
    • Home laptops
    • iPhones (which are used to control certain smart devices in the home)
    • Apple TV
    • Fire TV Stick
    • Smart TV
    • Philips Hue Bridge
    • Smart fans
    • Wireless printer

    Up until recently, I was using the Fios-provided ActionTec router. The pfSense was installed last week, so I am still unlocking some of the capabilities of it and trying to rearchitect the network better than it was before. For example, our smart fans are not technically IoT (they are only accessible on local WiFi) and, until we switched to pfSense, it required that the device be on the same wireless network in order to communicate.

    I'm now trying to figure out the best way to design my home network with security in mind, without compromising (too much) functionality.

    Here is a basic overview of our current setup:

    • All Ethernet ports on the pfSense and Meraki switch not in use are disabled.
    • Those Ethernet ports not disabled (LAN and WAN on pfSense, LAN on Meraki switch, WAP trunk on Meraki switch, Hue Bridge access port on Meraki switch, and my PC access port on Meraki switch) are MAC stickied so nobody else can plug a device in and have it work.
    • Everything is on VLAN 1. I'm pretty sure this should change, but I'm a bit outdated on my network abilities and am curious how this should be configured both from a networking standpoint when it comes to using different wireless networks as well as a firewall standpoint when it comes to configuring access to different networks using rules. Ideally, everything would be isolated and only given access to the specific IPs and ports required, right?
    • We have a guest wireless network setup on the Meraki WAP which isolates clients into their own network. This is what we give to people who come to visit. I am unsure of whether this is best practice for security and/or functionality. I have not setup any custom DNS or anything here and would like to know what should be done.
    • We have a private network with a hidden SSID (for the sake of conversation, we can say this was named "HomeNet") which contains our smart fans, laptops, iPhones, printer, and Apple TV. We put the Fire TV Stick on our guest network since we don't control it from our phone. The Apple TV (I believe) needs to be on the same network as your iPhone in order to control it from the phone, which is what causes a lot of confusion for me in regards to how to set this up. I feel like these devices should be isolated. At the very least, would it be more normal to put laptops and the printer on a separate, more hardened WiFi network? The tricky part here is figuring out how to handle our fans. Since they're not IoT, they don't need to access the Internet, but our phones do need to access them. How would one set this up?

    Sorry for all the questions! Obviously it's a bit confusing for me trying to figure out the optimal configuration here, so any and all help is totally welcomed and appreciated!

    submitted by /u/xyeLz
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    Simplest way to connect to another PC in the home?

    Posted: 11 Jul 2021 04:55 PM PDT

    TLDR: Two PCs, one house. I'd like to access files, use printer on Old PC from Current PC via WiFi.

    Longer version...

    Howdy. I need to get a smaller desk, and have to stash away a bunch of my Current PC's peripherals, including a printer-copier and a bunch of external USB drives. I still have my old gaming PC tower and would like to put it back into action to as a dedicated media storage PC and printer plugger-inner, leaving my main PC just with wireless keyboard / mouse / XBox controller and the TV and a monitor so the room is less cluttered.

    Current PC runs Win 10 Pro on a 1tb NVME ssd, a Ryzen 3600x, Gigabyte B450 Pro Wifi mobo, 32gb ddr4-3200, a GTX 1060 6gb gpu, and Phanteks mid-tower case. It's one ethernet port is connected to our downstairs router via 75 feet of cat5e cable. It also has built-in WiFi AC on the mobo.

    Old PC had Win 10 Pro on a different 1tb NVME ssd, an i3-6100 cpu, Gigabyte Z170 mobo, 16gb DDR4-2400, in an ancient Antec mid-tower case. I pulled the GTX 1060 from this to use in the Current PC, but the Intel chip / Gigabyte mobo can put out basic video. It had ethernet running to the router, as well as a USB WiFi AC adapter.

    I have also collected about 8 external USB 3 drives over time, (3, 4, 8 and a 12tb drive) to hold various media, plus the old printer/copier we still use a few times a month.

    I had planned on getting a few more 12tb drives to consolidate my media to a few drives, but with drive prices being as crazy as they are now, I can't afford that right now.

    So, my current idea is to get the old i3 PC running again, and stuff it in a large closet across the house. It would keep my old printer and external drives cozy. (I have ventilation in the planned space.)

    Ideally, I would like to be able to access the i3 (via WiFi) from the Ryzen PC, using it and the printer as if I was plugged into it directly with my Ryzen's mouse, keyboard and HDTV + monitor. If that isn't possible, I would like to at least access the drives and printer remotely from across the home.

    Can I do this via WiFi? I have been building PCs for 25+ years and know PC hardware, but I know very little about networking. I know Win 10 Pro has stuff built in to do the file and printer access, but I am not sure about actually controlling the other PC as if I was sitting at it from across the home.

    Thanks in advance!

    submitted by /u/NewOrderrr
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