Home Networking Wired Ethernet is only half the speed of WiFi |
- Wired Ethernet is only half the speed of WiFi
- Unifi AC-lite SETUP HELP
- Running network cable from finished space to unfinished space
- [UPDATE/ANOTHER PROBLEM] My CAT6 cable can't seem to transfer 1gb only 90-100 mbs
- Help! Kids school and Home Network
- Motorolla MB8600 or Netgear CM2000? Need a new Docsis 3.1 Modem
- Hello, I don’t understand a thing about routers, internet etc. But i bought a new router supposedly fast, with 1200mbps but I connected to my ps4 an i am only getting 37mbps, the router is the tenda ac6, if anyone could help me I appreciate it, thanks
- Deco M5 Review: Mesh Wi-Fi on a Budget
- Is the modem bad?
- Hopefully an easy question, verizon static ip and assigning it to a device
- Home networking help required
- Cannot get GoCoax MoCA adapters to pair for Encryption
- Help/tips for a noob to setup home network
- Consumer wifi router speeds
- Simple question regarding switches and how they work
- Strange cable internet connectivity issue
- How to install MOCA adapters properly?
- Running fiber to gate
- constant google captcha/blocked sites/captchas from other sites on my home network and cellular data. Seems to only affect my personal devices and not my mums (so it seems). 2x Iphone Xs, a macbook pro and an iPad Air 2 all affected.
- Setting up modem/router
- Powerline Adapter Issues w/ Wifi
- ipengine.dev (Free alternative to ip-info; ipinfo; ipapi; whoapi; ipstack)
- Single AP or Mesh for Condo Application
- Chromebook is crashing my WiFi
- Home internet speed suddenly slow
| Wired Ethernet is only half the speed of WiFi Posted: 28 Aug 2020 04:37 PM PDT I bought this Belkin Ethernet Adapter with Lightning connector accessories for the iPad https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HMJU2ZM/A/belkin-ethernet-power-adapter-with-lightning-connector because sometimes the router in my house is down but the Ethernet is still working. What surprises me is according to speedtest, the wired Ethernet speed is only half of the WiFi. With WiFi I got 185 Mbps download speed, with Ethernet I only got 89 Mbps. At first I thought there must be something wrong with the wire so I connected the wire to my 12 year old laptop and the Ethernet download speed is over 200 Mbps. So, the problem is the Belkin adaPeter, not the wire. My question is how come the wired Ethernet is half the speed of WiFi if they come from the same source? Shouldn't it be the other way around? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Aug 2020 04:43 PM PDT Ive recently bought a new AP to cover other areas of my house but i'm having trouble installing it, my vision is that i use these AP as "extenders" to my existing network but im not sure i set them up right because it just created a new network under another name. My question is: is there a way for it to use the same network ? [link] [comments]  |
| Running network cable from finished space to unfinished space Posted: 28 Aug 2020 03:25 PM PDT Bought a house back in June and I'm wanting to run some CAT6 for network and CAT5e for security cameras. There's a closet down in the finished den/basement, but I'll be running cables mostly through the garage which has exposed joists to reach other rooms. What's a good solution for passing cables through drywall into a finished space without introducing air leaks and/or bug/rodent pathways into the home? Conduit and SSP putty? I'd like the ability to add more cables later without leaving an open pathway into the finished part of the house. [link] [comments]  |
| [UPDATE/ANOTHER PROBLEM] My CAT6 cable can't seem to transfer 1gb only 90-100 mbs Posted: 28 Aug 2020 05:20 AM PDT Hello guys! My original post is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/ie4vwb/my_cat6_cable_cant_seem_to_transfer_1gb_only_9010/ I changed the connector on the cat6 cable and now i network properties it says 1 gbps, and not 100 mbps as it was showing before the replace, so that's great, but I still cannot get more, only the same 93 mbps as it was before the replacement. Any other idea? Maybe the cable is bad? It still gets 700 mbps directly from the router. [link] [comments]  |
| Help! Kids school and Home Network Posted: 28 Aug 2020 02:50 PM PDT This seems to be a complicated problem, I hope that I'm in the right spot because we're desperate so that my kids can attend school! My kids have a portal to access for school. Which has their apps and allows for testing. We've been unable to access it from our WiFi (Att Fiber, Device: Arris BGW210-700.) The website says that it is unable to connect to the server. We cannot access it from ANY device using our home WiFi (phone or Chromebooks) Others can access it from other places (using our login) and IF I turn off the WiFi on my iPhone, it will load. We do not have any issues with any other school district pages including Aries and the kids school email system which appears to be part of the same system. Just the one page. I escalated the issue with our district to the top dog and they said our IP address is not blocked and that we should call our provider. Att said that they couldn't help either. Is this a firewall issue, network issue, page issue or school issue? Where do I start? Please help! [link] [comments]  |
| Motorolla MB8600 or Netgear CM2000? Need a new Docsis 3.1 Modem Posted: 28 Aug 2020 12:37 PM PDT Hello, I was just informed by my isp that I need to upgrade my modem, and I am currently looking at 32x8 modems. I've heard good things about the MB8600, however, as far as I know, this modem is approx 3 years old now. I noticed Netgear just came out with the CM2000. The MB8600 is $159 and the CM2000 is $250. I'm wondering if it's worth getting the newer modem from Netgear for future proof reasons. Any suggestions are much appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Aug 2020 06:03 PM PDT |
| Deco M5 Review: Mesh Wi-Fi on a Budget Posted: 28 Aug 2020 06:11 AM PDT Mesh WiFi on a BudgetThe TP-Link Deco M5 is a low-cost Wi-Fi 5 mesh kit, another in a sea of similar systems. Eero, Linksys Velop, D-Link COVR, Netgear Nighthawk and Netgear Orbi, Google Nest Wi-Fi, Asus ZenWifi, AmpliFi -- the list goes on and on. With so many brands making mesh Wi-Fi kits, how are you supposed to know which one to pick? One thing the Deco M5 has going for it is price. I found a 3-piece kit for $169, below a lot of it's competitors. Most Wi-Fi 5 mesh kits on the market are sold for $200-$300 and up. There is a range of performance and prices for Wi-Fi 5 mesh kits. Deco M5 is on the budget end, even if it isn't the absolute cheapest. What are you giving up for the lower price? Build quality, design, high-end performance, and a better and more capable mobile application. If those kind of things are important to you, the Deco M5 probably won't impress you much. If all you care about is having good Wi-Fi coverage and spending as little as possible, the Deco M5 is worth considering. For most people the Deco M5 is a good trade-off, sacrificing things they don't care about and prioritizing Wi-Fi range. I'm going to be comparing the Deco to Eero often, because it is one of the Deco's main competitors, and I'm more familiar with Eero. Setup, Mobile App, and Ease of UseSetting up the Deco M5 was very simple, it's the same process as most mesh systems. Download the Deco app, plug them in, run through a quick setup process, and you are done. The main thing to worry about during setup is giving it the correct kind of Internet connection. If possible, plug your main Deco M5 into your modem or modem/router in bridge mode. Do everything you can to avoid double NAT. I covered this in more detail in my Eero setup guide, and the same advice applies here. Once you have the system setup, the mobile app allows you to do some basic network management, and has a few security features. The Deco app has parental controls, antivirus, QoS, usage reports, and most of the settings you would expect. You can easily setup a guest network, update the Deco units, block devices from your network, and other essential tasks. The malicious content filter, intrusion prevention system, and infected device quarantine are provided by Trend Micro, but they don't offer a lot of reporting or details. I did not receive any alerts or any sign the security features were doing anything during my testing. I wouldn't consider the built-in security features great, but they can be another level of protection. The parental controls and device profiles did work for me, though. You are able to setup a device into the broad categories of Child, Pre-teen, Teen, and Adult. You can also control the time of day they are allowed to be connected to the Internet, or set a daily time limit. The profiles can block adult content, games, social networking, and other pre-defined categories. As an example, using the child profile set my Google results to safesearch with no option to disable it. It wasn't perfect though, and no network-based parental controls are going to be a replacement for on-device controls or the watchful eye of a parent. The best part about these features is there is no cost or subscription to use them, like there is with Eero Secure. The Deco app also has some ways to interact with home automation systems, allowing you to control your smart lights, plugs, switches, outlets and other smart devices. I wasn't able to test this because I don't have any smart devices in my house, but it's worth noting. From what I can tell, you can setup triggers for your smart home devices, and receive alerts or perform actions based on triggers like you arriving home, joining the network, or at a certain time of day. There is also Amazon Alexa integration, which lets you do some common tasks via voice commands. Overall the Deco app is good, and in my few weeks of testing, it performed how you would expect. It isn't as polished as the Eero app, but the Deco units are cheaper, and all the application features are free. The Problem with Mesh Wi-FiJust like every other mesh Wi-Fi system, the Deco can't beat physics. Even the best mesh Wi-Fi systems trade maximum speed for extended range. The main issue with mesh systems is relying on wireless backhaul. Every wireless transmission has a potential for interference, attenuation, and all sorts of other issues. When your device transmits to a mesh node, and that mesh node has to re-transmit to your main unit, you have two opportunities for things to go wrong. Using wireless backhaul adds latency, increases airtime usage, and reduces overall throughput. The more wireless "hops" you have, the worse this effect is. If possible, always use wired backhaul instead of wireless. Dual-band mesh systems like the Deco M5 suffer from this problem more than tri-band systems like the Deco M9 or Eero Pro. With a tri-band system, you typically have two radios for serving clients and one for backhaul. This removes the retransmissions and interference from re-using radios to perform backhaul. The better tri-band systems like the Eero Pro and Deco X9 can dynamically use all three radios as needed, making those systems better for larger, denser, and more challenging environments. The bottom line is that all wireless transmissions are best effort, and come with comprimises. With mesh networks and wireless backhaul, you will notice worse performance when you're not connected to the main access point. If possible, always run Ethernet cabling to your access points. This prevents one of the wireless hops, and will dramatically increase throughput and reduce airtime usage. With that out of the way, let's talk about how the dual-band Deco M5 performs as a wireless mesh. Deco Performance and RangeThere's nothing special about the performance of the Deco M5, but getting it for this low of a price is. The Deco M5 uses most of the same tricks as the Eero system I recently tested. In some ways, they are very similar. They both use 40 MHz wide channels on 2.4 GHz to improve speed, with really loud radios and antennas designed for long range. Both the Eero and the Deco are good at forcing devices to roam from AP to AP, and making smart routing decisions behind the scenes to provide a seamless experience. Roaming correctly and using dynamic routing for wireless backhaul has a big effect on mesh network quality, and both Eero and Deco do that well. The Deco supports 802.11k/v/r, so roaming should be seamless if you have modern Wi-Fi devices that support those standards. While roaming around my modestly-sized two story house, I saw all 3 nodes operating at maximum power. If I was able to, I would turn down the transmit power, or step down to only 2 rather than 3 units. With Wi-Fi, more transmit power isn't always better. Despite the Deco units being a bit too loud, It was able to handle all the extra power well. I never noticed any clients joining the wrong AP, or staying connected to one further away. Both of those things happened to me with the truly terrible Netgear Nighthawk MK62. In that regard, the Deco M5 was the best low-cost mesh system I've tested. It's hard to represent Wi-Fi performance in any sort of definitive way. I don't have a lab to test these systems in, or a repeatable system for getting directly comparable results. I wish I was able to be more scientific with my testing, but for now I just have my house and my devices. I don't have the claimed 5500 square feet to fully test, but I was able to get acceptable performance at the edge of my back yard, roughly 50 feet and one brick wall away from the main unit. This is very similar to the range and performance I got with the Eero and Eero Pro systems. A lot of reviews of Wi-Fi systems will show you a single speed test result, which tells you nothing. Speed tests, especially to public speed test servers on the Internet, are not a reliable way to measure performance. I also tested throughput using iPerf3, and got the expected 300-400 Mbps near the main AC1300 base station in ideal conditions. When connected to a mesh node, throughput dropped to 100-200 Mbps, depending on how close I was to the node. When at the corner of my yard about 50 feet and one brick wall away, throughput hovered around 50 Mbps. All of that is in line with what you can expect from any AC1300 access point with a decent antenna. Deco lineup and model explanationThere are a lot of different models, and it took me a while to make sense of them. It helps to know what the letters represent. Deco Model Identifications - X = 802.11ax, AKA WI-Fi 6 - M = 802.11ac AKA Wi-Fi 5 - E = M, but with 100 Mbps ports. Avoid these. - P = included powerline adapters - W = Mesh kits There are also generations to worry about, especially in the M line: - M5 is the latest generation of Wi-Fi 5 kits - M3 and M4 are older, bigger, dual-band AC1200 units - M3 3-pack include M4R router and 2 M3W beacons, which is as confusing as it sounds. - The really cut down models start with E. The E3 is the same as the M3, but with 100 Mbps ports. I do not recommend anyone buy a Deco E3 kit, there are better budget options which don't limit you to 100 Mbps ports. It's a lot to process, and TP-Link doesn't make it easy. If you try searching to Deco on any major E-commerce site, you end up with a messy lineup that doesn't make it clear. If you ignore all the noise, you end up with 4 models that are worth considering Currently available Wi-Fi 5 Models
Currently available Wi-Fi 6 models
Coming Soon
Is it worth paying more for something else?As with most technology buying decisions, the answer depends on a lot of factors. I was pleasantly surprised with the performance and features of the Deco M5. The app is good enough, all the features are free, and the Wi-Fi coverage was above average. The Deco lacks some of the polish and features of the higher-end Wi-Fi systems, but for most people that probably doesn't matter. There's a reason why the Deco M5 is a consistent top seller. Just like the cheapest Eero kit, it's pretty amazing what kind of value you can get from cheaper mesh systems. If you want good mesh Wi-Fi on a budget, the Deco M5 delivers. If you want something with more polish, it might be worth stepping up to the basic $249 Eero kit. If you have a larger space to cover or a lot of devices, it might be worth stepping up to a tri-band system like the Deco X9 or Eero Pro. If you want something that's more future-proof, you should consider a Wi-Fi 6 system. Good Wi-Fi 6 mesh systems are still hard to find, and some of them can be eye-wateringly expensive, but they will give you much better performance and last longer before needing to be replaced. Honestly, I think most people won't be able to tell the difference between all the systems I just mentioned. The Deco M5 was the first budget Wi-Fi system I've tested that came without any significant compromises. If you just want Wi-Fi that works and covers your whole house, the Deco M5 delivers good-enough performance and great value. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Aug 2020 07:55 PM PDT I've been having connectivity issues and when I unplug and the plug back in the coax cable the modem shuts off and turns back on. What is going on? [link] [comments]  |
| Hopefully an easy question, verizon static ip and assigning it to a device Posted: 28 Aug 2020 01:13 PM PDT I'll try to keep this short but I know very little about networking. I have a device that is supposed to connect to a cellular modem (cradlepoint) and get assigned a static ip that we bought from verizon. You are supposed to be able to visit the static ip on a web browser to log in and set up the device. To activate this static IP and assign it to this device, do I just plug the device into the WAN slot of the cellular modem and then go to that static IP through a web browser to set the device up? Or do i have to configure the modem so that the WAN assigns the static ip to a device plugged into it? I guess TLDR: how do i assign a verizon provided static IP to a device with ethernet capabilities using a cradlepoint cellular modem? Please feel free to ignore this question if the answer is more complicated than what i think it might be, but i would appreciate the help Edit: if anyone is interested, I am trying to set up a watchdog for a vision bin dryer. I am using the cellular modem method. the manual is https://www.grainsystems.com/content/dam/Brands/GSI/Manuals/English/Conditioning/Controls/pneg1706-112015.pdf and the cellular modem instructions start on page 17 [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Aug 2020 06:43 PM PDT Hi. New to this so any help will be considered fantastic! I have a modem/router combo from my ISP providing 1gb speeds via each lan port. I have great wireless downstairs however upstairs I do not and wish for my tv and gaming consoles to be connected via Ethernet So I have decided to go with the ethernet cable routing around my house. I have hardwired an Ethernet cable from my ISP modem/router downstairs to an AX8 netgear router upstairs. With or without the same SSID I appear to get a good working connection - wireless upstairs and downstairs and all the lan ports on each device active and passing 1GB speeds. However after a while the netgear AX8 has a drop from the ethernet connected from the isp lan to the router wan from 1000M to 100M thus limiting the speed to maximum 90mbs. I have trialled the ethernet cable and ran speed tests and appears to be working fine and giving the correct speeds as is my ISP. Every time I reboot the router it appears to work and within the hour the speed drops back down. I have tried to put the router as an access point and that still caused a drop. I have tried flashing the router, power cycling, downgrading and repudiating the firmware, changing the channels and to no avail. I have put my isp modem/router into modem mode but was not able to then get a wireless connection downstairs. I am unsure what to do next. I am considering returning the AX8 router and possible getting a wireless mesh extender which I can connect via a wired connection to allow internet around the upstairs of my hours and this then connected to a switch so that I can connect my tv and gaming consoles wired without a potential drop in speeds. Is there any idea why the wan in the router keeps dropping? Any suggestion would be helpful. Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Cannot get GoCoax MoCA adapters to pair for Encryption Posted: 28 Aug 2020 08:49 AM PDT Hey all, I recently bought 2 gocoax MoCA adapters to add to my network and have a MoCa enabled router. I didn't have any issues with initial set-up and I have 2 devices connected via MoCA to the network with no problems. I recently tried to enable encryption by pairing both and cannot do it. I can get one adapter to encrypt and the MoCA light changes to blue but I cannot get the second adapter to pair with it no matter what I try. I've followed gocoax instructions to the 't' but no luck so far. I've given up for now and set everything back to unencrypted and it all works good but just frustrated that I cannot get this to work. [link] [comments]  |
| Help/tips for a noob to setup home network Posted: 28 Aug 2020 06:29 PM PDT ISP: ATT Fiber Switch: TP link 5 port unmanaged Router: USG Controller: Raspberry Pi 4 AP: 1x Unifi Nano-hd powered through poe injector Apartment size: 1300 sq ft. Use case: to have one hardwired connection to pc for game+streaming while the other 3 roommates use wifi for work via zoom calls. Looking to "setup and forget" with manual updating if needed. Mind state of noob from 2 weeks of research: I'm pretty burnt out from reading so many mixed reviews, guides that are months to a year old, and looking up definitions for all the networking terms. At this point, I don't remember much of what I watched apart from figuring out what hardware I need for my setup and I could not differentiate which guides or info were actually reliable. And so, I hope that from this post, you redditors can help compile a reliable, up-to-date guide on setting everything up. Main concerns/questions:
Edit:
Have: 1x 50ft cat 6 cable for AP Nano 4x 2ft cat6 550MHz ethernet patch cord from monoprice [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Aug 2020 06:29 PM PDT Hi, I just bought a Unifi nanoHD access point because my Nighthawk 8500 seems to be dying. I've read about how Unifi APs will be slower than typical consumer ones and I'm actually fine with that. I was not expecting such a big drop in speed (sometimes over 50mbs slower) but I'm not obsessing over it. So...not complaining, I just wonder if anyone could give me a technical a deep dive on why this happens. Since consumer wifi routers have better single client speeds and enterprise access points have better multi-client access there must be a hardware or software design reason. Do enterprise access points purposely limit maximum client speed to leave some sort of buffer so that it can handle multiple connections? In other words, would allowing full throughput overwhelm the processor/ASIC/SOC and not leave enough "room" to handle the overhead of connecting multiple clients? [link] [comments]  |
| Simple question regarding switches and how they work Posted: 28 Aug 2020 04:35 AM PDT Hi. I'd like to turn my desktop into a homeserver and access it from my laptop. Unfortunately my network situation is very poor. My desktop is connected using a powerline that caps at 20mpbs to the modem/router/switch combo and my laptop connects over wifi, which due to my router is also very very slow. A simple SMB share between these two devices is practically unusable. I was hoping I could just plug a switch at the end of the powerline and connect both my laptop and desktop to it to enjoy glorious one gigabit per second speeds between the two. Would this work, or would somehow my router be able to bottleneck it anyway? I'm not sure whether the traffic will hop from my desktop to the switch to my laptop, or whether it would have to pass the router anyway. I understand this will change absolutely nothing on actual internet speeds but I don't mind that. Thank you! [link] [comments]  |
| Strange cable internet connectivity issue Posted: 28 Aug 2020 02:13 PM PDT I recently moved into an older home, and have been experiencing an odd problem with my cable internet connectivity. The house has one primary coaxial cable that comes into the garage. It is attached to a splitter, from which the rest of the rooms are wired. From time to time, the connection to my cable modem will drop, and it will not reconnect regardless of how long I let it try. Power cycling it does not alleviate this. If I disconnect the modem and connect it directly to the main coax cable supplying the house (in the garage), it connects to the ISP immediately. I can then reconnect the line splitter and put the modem back in the office, and now it will connect just fine from that outlet. I have no other issues with connection stability, and there does not seem to be any regular pattern to these events. However, when they happen, the only way I can get the modem to reconnect to the ISP is to hook it up directly to the house's main line. Once it establishes a connection there, I can turn it off, and it will connect from the office outlet. I've tried replacing the line splitter and even the modem itself, but the problem persists. The only thing I haven't replaced is the actual line that goes from the garage to supply the office. I'm wondering if anyone has any idea of what might be causing this phenomenon, as it's not something I've ran into before. [link] [comments]  |
| How to install MOCA adapters properly? Posted: 28 Aug 2020 05:55 PM PDT Hi there! I am a complete newbie about Moca and have been researching on how to do it in our home. I wanted to hard wire my PC instead of using wifi and in the future adding more to other rooms. Our internet is connected using a coax with an Arris modem and netgear router (we have Charter Spectrum internet, we don't have tv or phone). From my understanding I have to get 2 Moca adapters, splitters, and a POE filter but I'm kinda lost since I see people connecting their POE filter at the coax that's on the cable box and some put it where the modem/router/moca is at. Is there an in-depth guide that I can follow? Most videos I watched tend to skip on some of the process. Thank you so much in advance! Also, additional question.. is this where I should install the poe? -- https://imgur.com/ttyjxdN [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Aug 2020 07:05 AM PDT I'm setting up a fiber run to the gate in front of my house to connect the gate and a single camera to my network. It's about 400 ft from my house and I want to avoid any issues with lightning so I've decided to run fiber. I've never messed with fiber before so I'm looking for some advice. My plan is to run a 400 ft pre-terminated run of OM3 in a 3/4 inch pvc conduit. I figure if I direct bury it I will regret it in years to come. I see all these recommendations online of people saying to use 2" conduit but that seems like extreme overkill for a single cable. Anyone have any advice regarding this? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Aug 2020 11:37 AM PDT This has been going on for a while now. Caught this problem May time? Very frustrating. I get a captcha from google almost every time I attempt to search for something through the Chrome/safari search bar. Seems to reset every 15 minutes if i don't have a google Tab open. Blocked from a few sites, the ones i've found out about are gamestop.com in which i get an error that reads "Access Denied You don't have permission to access "http://www.gamestop.com/" on this server" and omegle, in which I get an "error connecting to server" every time I try to initiate a chat. Both american sites? (I am based in the U.K.) The thing that baffles me is that when I get the captcha, it displays an my IP, which isn't the IP associated with my router. This applies on both cellular and home network. This is also the case when I check it on whatismyIP? I am not using any proxies that I know of, and this applies if I am using a VPN too. I think the problem stems back to when I was attempting to use RDP (Completely legitimately to a central server to run some tests). I changed my MAC address and flushed my DNS etc. I checked whether my IP was blacklisted and it's only blacklisted on one spam site. I had to wipe my computer and reset to default due to it running slow and bricking up shortly afterwards (couple weeks.) I have scanned for viruses on all my devices, and there don't appear to be any issues with Worms on my home network. This could be related but then again could be a red herring of sorts Any advice? It is starting to annoy the shit out of me, as the captchas are a massive inconvenience especially on the go and slightly worries me too [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Aug 2020 05:28 PM PDT Hi, i got a new iskratel's innbox v80. Its customized for my ISP and it has different settings then the previous one. Before i had just a LAN tab and there i set up my network to be on 7.7.7.1 and i could add another network 7.7.8.1 and then there was dhcp all in same tab and i just added a static ip for the device i wanted to isolate. Now on the new one I have a LAN tab where i can create another lan network and 7.7.7.1 is LAN0 and 7.7.8.1 is LAN1 and i have a separate DHCP tab where i select between LAN0 and LAN1 and then set up a whole DHCP server for it and i can set up static ips plus i have the whole DHCP Options thing. I have never done networking so hardcore all i want is isolate this one device from rest of network. Simply because im annoyed of this TVbox popping on my youtube app when casting and dont want to accidentaly click and cast on wrong TVbox [link] [comments]  |
| Powerline Adapter Issues w/ Wifi Posted: 28 Aug 2020 01:35 PM PDT I am sure this has been asked a 1000 times so my apologies. I am using a powerline adapter to try and extend the Wi-Fi signal through our large house which has a few different levels and several walls at the signal has to go through. We have charter cable Internet. [link] [comments]  |
| ipengine.dev (Free alternative to ip-info; ipinfo; ipapi; whoapi; ipstack) Posted: 27 Aug 2020 08:36 PM PDT Hello Reddit; So a while back i found a website (app) called ipinfo and they provided ip info of a IP address and they are charging $50 for 250k lookups and me being a cheap ass i am i didn't want to pay for it and created my own one. Its completely FREE. Works with both IPv4 & IPv6 Personal Lookup: https://api.ipengine.dev Global IP Lookup: https://api.ipengine.dev/ip/8.8.8.8 If there is a demand for this ill add anything IP related users want. [link] [comments]  |
| Single AP or Mesh for Condo Application Posted: 28 Aug 2020 05:08 PM PDT We are moving to a neighbouring unit but with a lot more square footage. Right now we're using a Google WiFi AP in a 700sqft two floor condo in the open space. The new unit is two floors as well and about 900sqft, the material between floors and to other units is concrete. The second floor is wide open to the first floor (minus a bathroom and walk in closet). Imagine the first floor as a rectangle, then the second floor as a square over half the first. Our office will be under the second floor, TVs in the open space and bedroom. Primary uses that require a strong connection: Gaming, work (simultaneous video calls, screen shares and virtual desktops - I have 7 Citrix desktops open at any given time myself), and 4K tv streaming. We both work from home and have a couple dozen devices plus connected: Gaming PC, 4 Macs (personal and work), Xbox, Switch, Smart TVs, Voice assistants, phones, tablets and smart watches. Our network connection is fibre Gigabit and is just as fast up and down. The only issue we may have seen so far is general issues in such a dense use case in a condo building. We're torn if we go for a single strong option like a Netgear Nighthawk AX12 and put it in the office thus focusing on the first floor. Alternatively save 200$ or so and go with two new Google Nests and put one in the office and one in the open living room or something. We're just not sure with this sort of layout what would bring the most return for is. Would love your help and your opinions. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Chromebook is crashing my WiFi Posted: 28 Aug 2020 01:20 PM PDT Im having an issue with the Chromebook that my sons school has issued him. For some reason, every time it connects to my home WiFi router, and starts doing Google Meet, it knocks the WiFi completely out. All devices including my PC and phones are removed from both of the channels (2.4 and 5). Only way to get them back on is to reboot the router. This happens every time. When the Chromebook is off, everything works as it should. I've had his Chromebook connected to the hotspot on my phone and it drops off it after a bit. He can't do his school work if he can't stay connected. It's an Acer Chromebook. My WiFi router is a TP-Link Archer C7 AC1750. Any help would be appreciated! If this isnt the place to ask, please direct me to where I can get help. Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Home internet speed suddenly slow Posted: 28 Aug 2020 05:04 PM PDT I noticed over the last couple days my setup was having trouble managing the multiple devices (two work laptops with VPN plus a few smartphones , one streaming video plus a couple of wifi cams and plugs). I ran the fast.com speed test and saw I'm getting an average of 80 Mbps when I was getting over 150 a couple weeks ago. This speed is over ethernet and Wifi (3 feet from router which is an Archer C7 v2). I've done multiple reboots of the router and modem (Touchstone CM2000) with no improvement. The one thing that did improve was turning off NAT forwarding which gave me over 200 on ethernet but then my Wifi devices don't connect. Does this prove Cox is throttling my service? The Cox tech support says I need a new router, the timing seems random though since I've had this setup for at least a year. Is it possible for the router to have this kind of issue with no changes to settings? I even reset to factory to undo any changes I've made over the years. [link] [comments]  |
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