Home Networking What could cause a kernel event to shut down an ethernet port on a wireless router? |
- What could cause a kernel event to shut down an ethernet port on a wireless router?
- Cat 6 question
- MoCA Troubles with Xfinity
- 2.4ghz channel unusable
- Does anyone have experience with an "extension cable" for an antenna coming out of my PCIE wifi/bluetooth card?
- Is this setup overkill? What's the alternative?
- Home Coax... Ideas?
- Home network/POE
- What tools should i use to run a long term Connection test between two locations?
- New apartment networking.
- Router help
- Ethernet and coax cable tester
- Ethernet-Only Apartment—2 Routers?
- Considering an access point instead of powerline/wifi extenders.
- WiFi Router Recommendation
- Picking a Router for a medium (950 sqft) apartment
- How to fix NAT type strict?
- Room with connections keep dropping, not sure the best solution.
- Best Big Family Modem/Router?
- There's (what looks like) an FBI surveillance device on my home network
- Question about coax cables in my room
- PDANet blocking Xbox services on PC?
- Tp-Link EAP-245 AP vs adding Asus AiMesh?
- Best Home wireless solution
- Hi vs Lo impact on punch down tool
| What could cause a kernel event to shut down an ethernet port on a wireless router? Posted: 29 Jul 2020 04:31 PM PDT I'm an I.T. engineer, and consider myself to be pretty technical... but this has me begging for help! 2020/07/28 21:53:38 Kernel event eth1 (Ext switch port: 2) (Logical Port: 10) Link DOWN 2020/07/28 21:53:41 Kernel event eth1 (Ext switch port: 2) (Logical Port: 10) Link UP 1000 mbps full duplex The device will then have connectivity to the network/internet again… until the next kernel event. Sometimes… that kernel event will happen every 30 seconds for 2-3 minutes. CenturyLink has replaced the modem. Issue remains. I do feel like it happens when we are streaming a movie or playing online games. Like the traffic somehow overwhelms that port and it just goes down. So frustrating. :( [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 04:52 AM PDT So perhaps a stupid question (forgive me) but I know that cat6 is rated for 10gig up to a 55m run, but what is considered the full run? For example, say I have a 20 meter cable from my router to a switch and then a 20 meter cable to another another switch and finally a 20 meter cable to a wall jack (just random numbers). Is this considered a bunch of 20 meter runs (within spec) or a 60 meter run (out of spec). Thanks and sorry if it's obvious! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 04:52 PM PDT Hi, So I've already had MoCA working before, but I've recently got a new Xfinity XFi Advanced gateway. I had an older Xfinity gateway that worked perfectly with MoCA. My setup (which worked prior to getting the new gateway) was: Wall coax out -> Splitter -> Motorola MM1000 adapter/Xfinity X1 box. (Essentially I had a 2-way splitter, so that I could get coax to both the TV box and the MoCA adapter). However, with the new gateway, I get no internet via the MoCA adapter when using the splitter, but I do get TV signal when using the splitter. I am only able to get internet if I connect directly from the wall coax-out to the MM1000 adapter - but I want to use both at the same time. I changed absolutely nothing regarding the wiring - the only physical object I replaced was the gateway. New gateway itself works fine as far as providing internet to the rest of the house. I have accessed my router via browser and MoCA is enabled. I've tried using new coax cables to no avail. I haven't tried a different splitter, but since the TV seems to get signal through the splitter, I'm thinking it's not the issue. And since I'm able to get internet if I go directly from the wall coax-out to the MoCA adapter, but not through the splitter, I'm a bit stumped. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 06:10 PM PDT Hi! As subject suggests I'm having issues with my 2.4ghz WiFi. Everything on 5Ghz works perfectly fine. I'm running the ASUS AX11000 WiFi 6 router. Phones randomly work (super intermittent), my smart TV that used to work just fine simply doesn't connect to the internet even though it's connected to the WiFi (Samsung Smart TV, no 5ghz support), and my connected smart speakers randomly can't connect to the internet. The weird thing is I have ZERO issues with the 5G bands. Any ideas on what this could be? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 06:01 PM PDT hi! I'm not entirely sure where to post this so I figured I would start here. I was wondering if anyone would know how to make my current set-up a little better.... I have my beautifully built desktop up against a wall (just space limitations) and my router is downstairs. I use my PCIE bluetooth/wifi card (Fenvi T919) mainly for bluetooth and I get "mostly" good signal/audio. I am about three feet from the machine and there is occasionally some lag / breaking up and when I shift my head towards the machine its restored. The antennas are at the bottom of my case up against a wall. I was wondering if anyone has used some sort of "extension" set-up to re-route the antennas to the top of the case? Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Is this setup overkill? What's the alternative? Posted: 29 Jul 2020 05:20 AM PDT Sorry if this question has been asked before I am moving into a house soon and have been researching a new modem/router setup. My basic needs are:
I was given advice on doing a ubiquiti setup with the followingModem => USG => AP Liteand running ethernet from the USG to a switch on each floor for my low latency needs + extra APs to be added. I'm wondering if this is overkill for my needs? are the better alternatives to the USG like edgerouter x? And lastly would a UDM be better than the initial USG/AP Lite setup? I want to start small and not run the ethernet throughout the house just yet, so a basic setup that replaces your traditional router/modem is all I need till i get to the rest (moving is expensive) Thanks for the help! EDIT: I don't expect full coverage until I run ethernet and add APs to each floor btw. Sorry for any confusion there. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 05:42 PM PDT Hello everyone, I bought a new house and it has coax all throughout the house installed. All of that coax comes down to one single point in the basement which is basically screaming to be put into some kind of splitter or server rack if that exists for coax. I'm running ethernet all throughout the house but I wanted to know if there was anything that I could do with that coax. Any ideas would be great [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 10:14 AM PDT Can someone help me figure out how to best set up a WiFi network in my home. I just found out it's "smart wired" and has cat5e+ ports in all the rooms. The house is 3k square feet and and I know my modem/router in the corner isn't going to cut it. Is it best to have POE with mesh router system? I'm a newbie when it comes to this. Anything will help. I'm looking to have solid WiFi connect all through out the house. Looking for suggestions for which products to buy too please. Thanks guys! [link] [comments]  |
| What tools should i use to run a long term Connection test between two locations? Posted: 29 Jul 2020 09:06 AM PDT So I have a Plex server and people on my ISP and a few others have it working fine, but there is one ISP that users have that just seems to cause the odd connection drop / large latency issue. While my results right now are still anecdotal, I was wondering what tools I could use to run some long term tests on connections at each point and see if the issue is somewhere in the network or something I can fix at each point. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 10:44 AM PDT I am moving into a new apartment and noticed that I have 3 Coax/Ethernet ports in the walls of each bedroom and living room. I found a panel box in one of the closets and noticed that a Xfinity box was connected. (See Pic) There is a coax 1 in 4 out splitter in the panel box. The IN is labeled as FEED. The 3 OUTs are labeled DEN, SIDE BED, MB. and the last out port is going to the Xfinity box. (SEE PIC). I also have 4 unplugged Ethernet cables that are not plugged into anything and just hanging inside the panel box, labeled HOME RUN, MB, SIDE BED, and one is unlabeled. I will not be using Xfinity for my internet services as I will be using AT&T uverse. Is it possible to just swap the Xfinity box for the AT&T box and then just use all of the Ethernet ports from the walls? I have tried to research this as much as I can, but networking is very new to me. Thanks in advance. Pics: [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 05:12 PM PDT Hi everyone! I'm moving to a two story house and need a router that will reach both levels. My primary need is to have excellent connectivity for Zoom clinicals/sessions with patients/online courses for my grad school program. We also only have streaming television so that would be good too. I don't have a huge budget and I was looking at the Nighthawk AC1900 (~$130) but I honestly don't even know what would be good. Not SUPER tech oriented but passable. [link] [comments]  |
| Ethernet and coax cable tester Posted: 29 Jul 2020 07:50 AM PDT Looking for recommendations for a cable tester that works with ethernet and coax (RG6). Basically just need line testing / fault detection. I am currently leaning toward the Klein Tools VDV501-823 but am open to suggestions. [link] [comments]  |
| Ethernet-Only Apartment—2 Routers? Posted: 29 Jul 2020 04:50 PM PDT I have recently moved into a new apartment where internet is part of rent and provided by the apartment complex—the rooms are outfitted with Ethernet only, and we do not have a modem. I currently have a router plugged into one of them, providing WiFi to all of my devices, but due to WFH it has to be in my bedroom and all of the walls in here are concrete. I'd like to have a second access point (I think—it's my understanding that setting up an AP and not a repeater is what preserves bandwidth.) Normally, turning a second router into an AP for the first router requires connecting them via Ethernet, something I don't have the option to do. However, it seems like a secret/hidden router or switch is already servicing all of the Ethernet jacks throughout the apartment. Could I connect a second router as an AP for the first using any of the Ethernet ports? How can I find out? If not, could I run it as a second router, using the same SSID and password, assuming I don't care about my devices' ability to see each other? Sorry this is so long winded, I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss a detail. Thank you in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Considering an access point instead of powerline/wifi extenders. Posted: 29 Jul 2020 04:36 PM PDT As title suggests, looking to reach a part of the house that my new modem/router can't reach. I've used powerline adapters and WiFi extenders for years and I'm not really that happy with them. Got a few questions about APs Will an ethernet cable from the AP to my gaming PC be noticeably slower than having the PC connected directly into the modem? My modem only has two ethernet ports so would rather use one for the AP to the room with the PC and use the other one for a nearby device. Will turning on the AP mode on say an Asus router turn off features unique to the asus? For example, adaptive QoS or a guest network? Would like to use the AP to reach an annex that's used for Airbnb. Are there any routers out there that make for great APs? Preferably under £100? Will a 20m CAT7 cable be okay for connecting the AP without noticeable data/speed loss? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 07:44 PM PDT Hi everyone, might you guys give a router recommendation between the next models? I'm choosing between the Huawei WS5200 Wifi Gigabit AC1200, the Xiaomi Mi 4A Gigabit version and the TP Link AC750 Archer C20. It's mostly for internet speed and low ping gaming. Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| Picking a Router for a medium (950 sqft) apartment Posted: 29 Jul 2020 03:46 PM PDT We're moving into a new apartment and are looking to upgrade our router! Thanks in advance for any advice you can give. Our building has Google Fiber so we're getting gigabit speed download rates. We're both grad students and doing remote school so we'll both be moderate-to-heavy internet users. I also do some online gaming and we'll both stream simultaneously. We can expect to have 4-6 devices connected at any given time, although probably only 2-3 actively downloading/uploading. I think I've narrowed the choices to the TP-Link AX1500, TP-Link AX3000, and Nighthawk AC1900. I'm into the first two because of AX but not sure if the Wifi speed difference of the AX1500 and AX3000 (reported at 1201mpbs and 2401 mpbs respectively) will be felt enough to justify the (admittedly moderate) cost difference. The Nighthawk is recommended by Google Fiber but I dont know if that's just a product placement. It seems fine, but given it costs the same as the AX3000, the TP-Link seems like better value. Thanks again! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 07:31 PM PDT I have a strict NAT type and I can't play with some of my friends online because of it. I just got this WiFi installed and like it other than the NAT type. I've tried to sign into the router setting online but I don't know the username or password. Should I try calling my ISP or is that useless? Could I buy another router to fix it? Is the problem with the router or the ISP? Please help. [link] [comments]  |
| Room with connections keep dropping, not sure the best solution. Posted: 29 Jul 2020 07:24 PM PDT I have a nighthawk router and a unifi AP lite which works pretty well (minus the fact there's 4 networks... The router 2.4 and 5ghz and the AP 2.4 and 5ghz). There's a room in my house that is in between all of these, and the connections seem to constantly drop even if I only connect to the strongest network and forget the rest. I absolutely cannot run a wire to that room unfortunately so getting another wired AP is out of the question. I was between a mesh network, and a wifi extender that I could put in that room and then just plug in to the extender. Is there a better non wired option? Unfortunately due to the layout of my house I can't do wired. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 07:10 PM PDT Hello all! I've been browsing for routers for weeks and still having difficulty choosing the best one. My partner prefers to use a modem/router all in one. We've recently bought 5 Google Nest cameras and the WiFi is suffering even on low bandwidth. There are 4 of us each and generally there are at least 4 devices online (streaming/gaming,etc) at any given time. At max, probably 12 excluding the cameras. I don't have the current router name on the top of my head, but I know it doesn't have a automatic restart feature for a specified time. When I get the name, I'll update the post. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| There's (what looks like) an FBI surveillance device on my home network Posted: 29 Jul 2020 07:04 PM PDT There's a device connected to my home WiFi called FBISurvevice052. I am trying to block it from accessing the internet. The router configuration page says it is turned off, but this still makes me massively uncomfortable. Does anyone know what this means? I don't even know where the device is located physically. [link] [comments]  |
| Question about coax cables in my room Posted: 29 Jul 2020 07:02 PM PDT I live in a townhouse where my parents live on the first floor and I live in the basement. They have a router/modem combo from spectrum with the 400 mbps plan but we only get like 200 mbps max and 100 mbps when gaming. I have a set of coaxial cables in my room for cable and maybe internet. Would I be able to use that for wired internet if I get a MoCA adapter to connect a ethernet directly to my ps4 or laptop? [link] [comments]  |
| PDANet blocking Xbox services on PC? Posted: 29 Jul 2020 06:46 PM PDT I'm using PDANet to provide internet from my Android phone to my Windows 10 PC. It works for everything except playing Xbox games online. I've tried the Xbox website troubleshooting but no dice. Any help would be appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| Tp-Link EAP-245 AP vs adding Asus AiMesh? Posted: 29 Jul 2020 06:26 PM PDT I already own a Asus RT-AC1900P (RT-AC68U optimized) which I like. I'm moving to a bigger house (1700 sq ft). Main floor and basement. I have multiple devices (~15) on 2.4G for home automation and some iProducts (~6) on 5G (iPhones, iPads...). Should I buy a compatible Asus AiMesh router (like another RT-AC68U or higher) or move to a access point like the good reviewed EAP-245 from Tp-Link? My new house features ethernet port in some rooms so I should be good to go corded with the added solution. Thanks a lot for your help! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2020 07:07 AM PDT Let me start by saying I have been in IT for about 30 years, so I have a pretty good understanding about networks. Been with Verizon FIOS for a long time, finally got rid of TV and now only have internet. Got rid of the Fios router. Current using an Asus RT-68R and a TPTL-SG116 Gigabit switch. Have 2 hardwired desktops, 3 iPads, 3 mobile phones and 5 wireless laptops. Currenting teleworking using a VPN. Also stream TV, normally only one at a time. My issue I am trying to solve is security and increase my wireless range. Not crazy about the range of the Asus so I have been looking to replace it. I live in a 2-story old brick home less than 3000 sq feet. Started looking at the Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) and Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US). Would just getting these two work? Is there a better solution? [link] [comments]  |
| Hi vs Lo impact on punch down tool Posted: 29 Jul 2020 06:21 PM PDT So you might've seen my previous post that was titled "questions about my 1998 home". Well everything is going great, but the punch down tool I bought LINKOMM Network Wire Impact Punch-Down Tool with 66, 110 and Krone Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6KQPH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OaIiFbHXRH6SG looks like it has a setting for hi and lo impact, however I think mine is defective because it's stuck on Lo impact. I've tried everything and it won't go to hi impact. Am I supposed to use hi or Lo impact for a cat5e patch panel? Should I return it? [link] [comments]  |
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