Home Networking Ubiquiti switching to opt-in for data collection |
- Ubiquiti switching to opt-in for data collection
- New Netgear R6260 causing problems
- Help me to chose router for my home network
- Question: The Extinct IPv4
- cable internet nerds please, I need some advise... my downstream/upstream power levels are too hot...
- Recommend me a good Ethernet cable. I’m only going to use it for my pc to my router and want it to be flat and about 75ft or 100ft. I really don’t understand all the different cats (lol) and different materials that they are made out of.
- Noobie looking for some help!
- What is the current recommended VPN service?
- Gigabit Switch(es) randomly drop in speed to 100mb. Driving me nuts
- Trying to get cable and Ethernet with a Actiontec MoCa 2.0 Ethernet adapter.
- Anyway to track data usage on nighthawk ax12 router?
- Mesh replacement Needed
- Changing the way my router's lights blink
- Shamefully asking for networking help about WiFi extenders that connect via coax cable after failed research
- Is router speed affected by the number of downstream channels on a modem?
- Help! Need dynamic IP in a country where they don't allow Dynamic IP - DHCP
- I will be purchasing a home within the next 12 months. I have been thinking about hiring a contractor to run Ethernet in the home. Advice, please?
- It's time for a new router
- What ISP to choose? (AT&T vs Charter/Spectrum)
- Ubiquiti UniFi Dream Machine vs. Amplifi Alien
- Windows 10 computer - Ethernet stops working when it goes to sleep
- SC cable? but new router has only ethernet.
- AC1200 or AC1750?
- Pi-Hole & Pi-VPN Setup Help
| Ubiquiti switching to opt-in for data collection Posted: 25 Nov 2019 05:49 AM PST As per this Tweet . I have verified this on my own Cloud Key. Might not have been smart to simply implement this the first time round, but happy they've switched to this model. [link] [comments]  |
| New Netgear R6260 causing problems Posted: 25 Nov 2019 05:17 PM PST I upgraded from an old Linksys WRT54G to a Netgear R6260 and am now having problems playing various PC games on the network. I have now been getting losing connection to the server in games like L4D2 and Call of duty co-op. I suspect this issue is due to high ping. When playing Squad i have noticed that my ping will now randomly shoot up to around 400 every 5- 10 minutes and then work its way back down in around 30 seconds. I am on a wired connection and i have tried disabling all QOS and DOS protection on the router as well as changing DNS servers. This is making me go crazy, any advice? Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Help me to chose router for my home network Posted: 25 Nov 2019 03:59 PM PST Hello everyone, i would really appreciate some help, i decided to get a better router for my apartment. Right now i have some basic router that i got from my internet provider. Usually it is working fine, but there are times when it can not handle everything in my apartment. So this is what i have on my network: (all using WiFi) 2 computers 1 TV 1 Playstation 4 2 phones I have Plex server, and right now, sometimes my video is buffering, i hope i will fix that problem with new router. So what i want is router that will provide me good signal strength and deliver as much as possible speed in my 70 square meters apartment. (i have decent internet connection 70 Mbit). My router will be placed in hallway (unfortunately i must place it there), so that means i have some walls that will get in the way. My budget is MAX 90$, and some routers that got my attention are:
Thank you in advance for any kind of help! Edit: I know that i should use wires, but long story short i would like to avoid it, and if any router can do that for me, i would go with that path first. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 07:30 PM PST As you all know IPv4 are at the brink of extinction. The numbers of IP are almost used up, and they are getting much more expensive to acquire. As the world will eventually transition to IPv6. Why haven't the general consumer transistioned to IPv6 yet? If there is a reason wouldn't it be possible to mask a IPv6 to use a similar format that a IPv4 would use. Such as IP:PORT:USERNAME:PASSWORD. I am genuinely curious if this is possible to do. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 06:10 PM PST ...however, not simultaneously. I've been spinning my wheels for a little on this issue. And, I need some help. So, I have an rg11 buried drop. It spans only about 100' from the tap to the house box. In the house box, the rg11 connects to a grounded moca filter, a 6" jumper then connects to a 5-1002Mhz 4way that has 3 of the 4 ports terminated. The other side of the splitter has an rg6 run that spans around the outside of my home maybe another 80 feet before entering the house. There is another 20 foot of indoor cable that connects to a 750 watt apc battery backup/surge protector before the 4 foot jumper that leads to the back of my netgear cm600 modem. My downstream power levels, right now, fluctuate between +9 and +11 db, sometimes a little lower sometimes a little higher, with about a 2 db variance between the 24 down channels. Mostly in the wee hours of the morning it's higher (+12) and around prime viewing time it's lower (+8). When it's closer to +8 and below, I get barely any correctables and zero uncorrectables. The closer it goes to +10 the more of both I see. Above 10 and it's constant, steady stream of errors. It's not unusable, I mean I don't drop offline, but In a house full of online fps gamers... well, you know correctable or not... errors are unacceptable. My upstream oth is an even +46 on three bonded channels. Without any splitters or the apc, my down can get as high as +17 or better, this is unusable. But, my up is around +42. So, I bought an attenuator pad, a FAM16 that knocks the forward path down 16 dBmV. The problem with that is, when it's in place, my upstream at +54 db. Now my return path is way too high! wtf? I have also tried... adding a second splitter, it lowers the power levels down but also raises them going back up. I have a 50+' length of coax that I put some f connectors on, looped it and connected it in between the cable in the house. Just to see what it would do. That lowered the downstream a little, by about 2-3 db's and had little affect on the upstream ... I wonder if I should I buy about 200' and try that again? That just seems sloppy to me though. So does having a whole bunch of splitters everywhere. It's not easy to find an inline cable simulator, but would it help? Or, would it be like the attenuator and lower my downstream while raising my upstream? I wonder if I could I buy another, say 12 db attenuator and have this one facing the return path while having the 16 db facing the forward path? Should I call my cable provider? What do I say? Would they even lower their levels? For some reason I doubt that they will. IME they just send a contracted tech out to snip my f connectors off, re-terminate them, and charge me $50 for the visit and never fix anything. What do I have to do to achieve as close to 0 dBmV down and, I've read that the magic number is +42 up? Thank you for your time and effort. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 07:10 PM PST |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 05:59 PM PST Hi all - I work in IT help desk, and asked my director for some advice on how to improve internet quality in my room. He gave me some suggestions and ultimately I decided on going the two router method. I have one singular ethernet running into my room that I was told if I plug into the LAN port, it should give off a wifi signal without drawbacks. (Or at least to my recollection that's what he said, perhaps I'm mistaken) I've got Verizon FiOS and still using the original equipment provided by the ISP. So I've recently purchased a NetGear Nighthawk R6700v3 to help improve the quality of wifi down in my room (router on the top level, I live on bottom). And I thought all was well. My signal improved greatly and I stopped losing connection randomly. However I was told by my family recently that all of their devices seem to lose connection now, even though my phone is still on the original WiFi. And it seems to hold a stable connection. All of my devices on the new router using the new connection hold a stable connection. I'm thinking it may be because there's two DCHP settings on both routers, but a little unsure. When I log into my new secondary router, my LAN setup option is grey'd out. Did I put this in AP mode? I did try some initial troubleshooting to see if I could resolve it, and perhaps I put it in AP mode. If I leave it as it is, would it cause any interference? My main purposes for internet is the typical - streaming, video games, etc. So I'd like to avoid double Natting. Any troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated! If I didn't leave enough details, please don't hesitate to call me out in an efforts to try and get this up and running as optimally as possible. (Note I would ideally like to keep my NetGear SSID but if not possible it's not the biggest deal) [link] [comments]  |
| What is the current recommended VPN service? Posted: 25 Nov 2019 09:33 AM PST From another thread, about PIA no longer being recommended, someone mentioned that NordVPN also is not recommended anymore. That's what I've been using recently. What is the current recommendation? [link] [comments]  |
| Gigabit Switch(es) randomly drop in speed to 100mb. Driving me nuts Posted: 25 Nov 2019 02:10 PM PST Hi all, ok so this is a bit of an odd one. I've been thinking that this problem is relating to my TPLink Deco home mesh system, but it transpires that it isn't. I noticed some months back that my internet connection drops from the normal 360mbps speeds down to about 95mbps. Once it has dropped it stays at that speed until i reboot the switch or the deco. Quick network diagram (pretty basic) Modem > Deco > Switch > devices I have a Fingbox which is what I am using to alert me of when it goes down in speed. I was blaming the Deco for a while but I realized that I could do a speedtest from my mobile phone (wireless) to the Fingbox on my LAN. When the speed has dropped to the 95mbps, I run the 'local' speed test it also checks out as being 95mbps. Rebooting the switch, the local speedtest pops back up to 300+. So it is definitely the switch doing something funky. But to make matters more confusing, I've changed switch with another gigabit switch I had access to (first of all it was a netgear 8 port gigabit, then replaced with a TPLink 8 port gigabit, both unmanaged basic switches.) Not sure what to do now , other than to buy a bigger/better/managed switch?? I also thought it might be torrenting or suchlike from my main PC that could be flooding it with activity/connections and the switch couldn't keep up. But I rebuilt my PC over the past couple of days and it hasn't even got a bittorrent client on it and the drop in speeds occurred. Any ideas? [link] [comments]  |
| Trying to get cable and Ethernet with a Actiontec MoCa 2.0 Ethernet adapter. Posted: 25 Nov 2019 07:53 PM PST Hello, I will start off saying I am very tech limited and read some post in reference to the adapter but I am still unsure of an answer. I took advice from a friend and am stuck. I bought the above mentioned adapter for the purpose of taking the existing coax line in my living room and splitting it so I can plug an ethernet cable into my PS4 and then the coax line into my TV. The wifi in the room is spotty so streaming services do not reliable work and my smart TV (Vizio) does not have the Disney + app for the kids yet, so I hooked the PS4 up. Now I have great internet to the PS4 but once I switched back to cable TV it would not work, giving me a connection error that no coax was connected. I unplug the coax from the adapter and place it directly into the TV from the wall all is good again. Am I doing something wrong or did my friend misinform me and what I bought cannot give me cable and Ethernet from the same coax line? If not is there a way to have my cable box and Ethernet lines work without having to run a new line from the garage to the other side of the house? Thank you [link] [comments]  |
| Anyway to track data usage on nighthawk ax12 router? Posted: 25 Nov 2019 07:53 PM PST Got an email from comcast saying I've used 1000 gigs of data this month and I will incur an extra fee. I would like to see what is using so much data but dont know how, or if it's possible. It doesnt seem like the household is using that much data. The only streaming being done is mostly 440p anime. Only big user of data that comes to mind is updates on xbox games but that still doesnt add up. Any suggestions would be appreciated [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 04:03 PM PST So ... I have a 1200 sqft+ guesthouse I need grade A Wifi for all guests. I now have a covr-c1200, but it seems to stop all the time, and I need to log back in and reset things ... it's a pain in the behind. I'm unable to run ethernet across the house, that's something I'm not willing to go through. I was considering the Google WiFi mesh system .. but now I see the market has gotten wider ... so TP-Link Deco is now a contender, and of course AMPed. I need something that I don't have to log in to an app and reset it every time something hiccups. Or is that just a thing I need to deal with until we're all robots? [link] [comments]  |
| Changing the way my router's lights blink Posted: 25 Nov 2019 07:47 PM PST Ok so basically, the reason I want to know how to do this is because my dad is able to see my internet traffic by looking at the Ethernet port of which my Ethernet cable is connected and see if I am playing games or not; when playing games the light flashes quicker from which my father is able to decipher that from the blinking frequency which is given off when I am doing something casual. Although half the time I am not even playing games he assumes I am playing games and pulls the internet. I wanted to know if I am able to make that light keep the same blinking frequency as it would have when I am doing something casual, when playing games. I wouldn't want it turn off completely as it would probably lead my dad to the conclusion that I am trying to prevent him from seeing whether I am playing games or not. I have the access code of the router and I am able to access the router config, but I don't see any settings related to LED lights. My router is the Pace 5268AC provided by AT&T. Thanks for all y'alls' time :). [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 10:52 AM PST I had my home networking research under control, and was ready to buy an Actiontec-WBC6200Q02 WiFi extender until my research landed on MoCA. I've been confused for the past week and a half now.. what exactly do I need? We live in a 4 bedroom apartment that is incapable of sending WiFi to the living room which is located at the exact opposite end to where the Router&Modem combo is located in. The living room is a complete dead zone with an unused coaxial cable. I have an Arris-WBG7400AC2 Router&Modem combo that is fully compatible with my ISP, Optimum. According to my research, I have not found anything on my Router&Modem combo being MoCA ready. Additionally, there's no mention of it in the digital manual. Can I simply buy an Actiontec-WBC6200Q02, connect it to my living room's coaxial cable, and be done with this? Thank you for reading. tl;dr - Modem&Router is Arris-WBG7400AC2. Looking to fix a dead zone with an Actiontec-WBC6200Q02 connected via coax. Is buying just an Actiontec-WBC6200Q02 a simple solution with my hardware? [link] [comments]  |
| Is router speed affected by the number of downstream channels on a modem? Posted: 25 Nov 2019 06:43 PM PST My dilemma, I have an old arris router/modem combo that is 802.11n and has 8 downstream channels. It reaches 150 Mbps speeds (my current internet speed) just fine when plugged in, but the router has a poop range and doesn't handle multiple devices well. I'm wondering if I keep the modem, turn off its wireless functionality and install something like an orbi router, would this be an improvement, or would the WiFi speed be affected by the modem having only 8 downstream channels? Better yet, do downstream channels have any correlation to routers?! Networking noob. Any help appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| Help! Need dynamic IP in a country where they don't allow Dynamic IP - DHCP Posted: 25 Nov 2019 06:34 PM PST Alright networking masters. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 06:23 PM PST So sometime within the next year, I am going to be purchasing a home. I have not decided yet if I will purchase an existing home or do a new build. (Living in Texas if that makes a difference) Though I have been working as a developer, I did dabble in networking while in college. And from that experience, I have been wanting to have a home that is wired for ethernet. But, I am not the most "handy" around power tools. So I am planning on hiring a contractor to do this. But it has got me thinking if I am planning on wiring ethernet in the home is there other types of cabling that I should get done as well? Like Coax or HDMI. The problem with this is that I do not want to wire something that will be useless as a standard in a decade or two. So on that score, I think Ethernet and Coax are safe bets, But for those of you who have wired your homes to make them more "smart" what have you guys done? I already have a few ideas. -For Ethernet, I would want all the runs to originate in a central location and terminate from all of the rooms to a patch panel. For the sake of argument let's say that it is an attached garage or centrally located closet. -I would use Cat 6a (that is the highest EIA/TIA ratified standard that I either know of or can find) Shielded twisted pair with a solid core, for the runs that go through the walls. I essentially want something that I can future proof as much as possible since running cable again is a pain in the rear and expensive. I expect 10Gbps to become the norm in home networking within the next 10 years. Should I look into CAT 7 even though it is not ratified by EIA/TIA? From what I can see it has the potential to go to 40GBps but the fact that it has not been approved by EIA/TIA gives me pause. -One other thing that I have thought of though is cable conduits in the walls. Something like PVC or something similar. Has anyone done that before? Part of me thinks that would make cable replacement much easier in the future. But please correct me if I am wrong. -What about other media types like Coax and HDMI or audio cabling (for, say, a home theater setup). While the main thrust is Ethernet, I figure that if one is already being run, that I should consider running the other. Please tell me your stories so I can learn from you all :) I really appreciate it. -Any advice on contractors? -I want to be respectful and not sound like a jerk, but please don't talk about wifi solutions for this setup. I fully intend to have wifi in the home but I want the various access points to be able to talk to each other through ethernet. I want to only use WiFi for devices that are actually mobile. For everything else, if it is stationary, I want to wire it. Is wiring a home overkill, perhaps, but since I am a tech enthusiast, this is something that I have been wanting to have for a long time, and I wanna get my GEEK on ;) -Also if there are any other considerations that I have left out, please feel free to comment. Thanks in advance :) [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 06:17 PM PST It's time to purchase a new router. Thought I had it narrowed down to 2, but open to other suggestions. House isn't that big, but the walls do a phenomenal job of killing signal, which is why I have 3 UniFi AP's scattered about. Overkill, but they were on a great deal. The router is located in a terrible spot, the very back corner of the house, thanks cable guy. Currently rocking an Asus ac-87. It has one wifi enabled, and it's only for the temp controller on my grill. It's located closer than the AP's, the AP's handle the rest. New router must have at least 4 wired ports, as they go to switches in all my rooms. Was looking at a netgear r7800 (found on ebay for about 100) the netgear ax4 that'll be on wally worlds black Friday for 100. Was also considering edgerouter, but I can't reliably get signal out to the grill, but would consider. What else is out there? [link] [comments]  |
| What ISP to choose? (AT&T vs Charter/Spectrum) Posted: 25 Nov 2019 02:23 PM PST I'm moving into my own place in a few months, and am trying to decide which ISP to go for. The only options I have are AT&T and Charter Spectrum. For both AT&T, I can get Gigabit internet speeds and only 200mbps with Spectrum, however AT&T has a fiber line. I am leaning towards AT&T because of issues I have with Spectrum and we'll obviously the fiber line, would AT&T be a good route to go, if I am going to be gaming, streaming, etc. Or should I just save the cash and go with Spectrum? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Ubiquiti UniFi Dream Machine vs. Amplifi Alien Posted: 25 Nov 2019 02:16 PM PST Hi all — Can you help me understand how Ubiquiti's new routers compare? In particular the UniFi Dream Machine vs. Amplifi Alien. The Alien is a WiFi 6/AX router, while the UDM is AC. I thought I was all set on routers, but these look very compelling. The UDM costs $299 while the Alien is $379. Here is some of the info provided by Ubiquiti on their product pages: UDM: "Dual-Band, Quad-Polarity Antenna" AA: "Internal Dual-Band Metal Stamp with 12 Polarity" UDM: "802.11ac Wave 2 4x4 MU-MIMO for 5 GHz and 802.11n for 2.4 GHz" AA: "2.4 GHz: 4x4 5 GHz: 4x4 (low-band) + 8x8 (high band)" UDM: ARM Cortex-A57 Quad-Core at 1.7 GHz (with 2 GB of RAM) AA: 2.2 GHz 64-Bit Quad-Core CPU (no info on RAM) What do you think? Is the Alien worth $80 more than the UDM? How do these compare to the best routers from other companies? I don't know what the antenna polarities mean, so if someone could explain it that would be great. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Windows 10 computer - Ethernet stops working when it goes to sleep Posted: 25 Nov 2019 02:01 PM PST We have a Windows 10 gaming computer that has Intel ethernet built in to the motherboard. About a month ago we changed our internet over centurylink fiber in DMZ mode passing routing along to the eero. About that same time, there was also a windows update. We are not sure which one caused the problem, but since that time, every time the computer is idle for more than 5 minutes, the ethernet device turns off and cannot be restarted without a reboot. In trying to debug this, here is what we have done:
Because it does not occur in Safe mode, we have been trying to figure out if there is some other driver that is causing a problem but have not gotten very far at this. Does anyone know of a way to get a list of all drivers enabled in non-Safe mode? Or is there a way to boot in non-Safe mode but ask before starting each other driver / program? Thank you for any suggestions you have! tom [link] [comments]  |
| SC cable? but new router has only ethernet. Posted: 25 Nov 2019 05:36 PM PST I moved into a new apartment and my internet was taken care of for my arrival. I go to change the router but its connected via SC cable and my own router has no port for this. I've been trying to search but cant find anything like an adapter ect. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 05:29 PM PST I'm currently using an old NETGEAR N600 cable modem router and it's been giving me a lot of issues over the last couple months so I've been looking for a suitable upgrade. I'm having difficulty determining which would be best for me, AC1200 or AC1750. I'm on a 150Mbps plan so correct me if I'm wrong, but either would be fine since I can't even reach those speeds. There are 3 people in the house, all of whom stream content and game regularly. I'm interested in the Beamforming tech in 802.11ac and the maintained performance across farther distances. Any info/recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Nov 2019 01:20 PM PST Hi, I recently got into HomeNetworking as a result of switching to gigabit internet, and have realized all of the security risks and concerns to account for and, honestly, it can be a bit overwhelming sifting through the information. As a result, I'd like to ask for some helping in moving forward and determining the best routes to do so.
Thank you in advance for the help! [link] [comments]  |
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