Home Networking Why do people rely so much on WiFi? |
- Why do people rely so much on WiFi?
- Tips for extending range with existing router
- Which of these NAS options? (WD,
- How to set up wifi through 3 floors in 2000 sq ft house?
- On/Off Implicit Beamforming, Mu-Mimo & Airtime Fairness?
- Did they mess up my network wiring by stapling the cables?
- Why not WAN on router 2.
- DIY UPS backup using external batteries
- SmartConnect by Netgear router.. Do I want it on?
- Switching ISPs but how do I get the TV signal to the TV?
- Question about moving my router, adding a switch and consequently separating machines by logical network
- College wifi into Ethernet
- Double NAT in student village
- WIFI setup for a 25 person house
- Can an AmpliFi Instant Router be used as a physical access point?
- Orbi RBK50 vs. RBK23
- Home/Prosumer Router with Port Filtering (i.e. port 9100 print spam)
- What dictates whether I need a crossover cable?
- Wifi issues after connecting Unifi AP Pro to TP Link Unmanaged switch (TL-SG105)
- Need help choosing a new Wifi router and LAN router to hook together.
- Router VPN issue
- ARRIS Modem troubles
- Whats the better choice
- TP-Link Archer T6E driver
- TP-Link Archer AC1200 connectivity issue
| Why do people rely so much on WiFi? Posted: 02 Jan 2019 12:48 PM PST So I am in the process of building a new house and shop and am working with a contractor. He does not have a regular sub that installs network cabling. When I asked why he didn't have more demand for network cabling his response was that everyone just relies on wireless. WiFi is certainly convenient, and when I am on a mobile device I certainly use it. I also see where wireless would be great for retrofitting an older building. But in a new building it seems like a no brainer to run wire as much as is feasible. Is this just me? [link] [comments]  |
| Tips for extending range with existing router Posted: 02 Jan 2019 08:59 AM PST Hello all, My sister is having trouble getting WiFi coverage in her basement. They currently have an Asus RT-ACRH13, which I know isn't a very good router but it serves their purpose fine. I've never had good success with range extenders so I'm asking your advice. I've heard great things from Reddit about the Ubiquiti/Unifi line of devices. To be honest it's all a bit over my head. My idea was to get an Access Point (I was looking at the UAP AC LITE) that would work with their existing router to extend their range. Does the Unifi AP work in the way I'm planning on using it? Or am I completely off base? Reading some conflicting information on Google. Also, assuming it will do what I want it to do, what is the setup process like? I'd imagine I could just connect the AP to my router via Ethernet and set it up with the same Network name/password. But I'm reading things about controllers and switches that makes me think I'm getting in over my head. Alternatively, if this Unifi route is going to be too complicated, is there a good range extender you can recommend that would work in the manner I've described above? [link] [comments]  |
| Which of these NAS options? (WD, Posted: 02 Jan 2019 08:31 AM PST I've been looking into different NAS options and have narrowed it down to three, but I don't know enough about the subject to pick one with confidence and I was hoping you all could help! I'm looking at the WD 8TB EX2 Ultra, QNAP TS-231P, and the Synology DS218J (plus WD Red drives) My goal is to have 2x4TB in RAID 1 and spend $300-$450. I plan to use the NAS to store files from my iPhones and computers. Using it for my Mac's timemachine backup would be great too. My top priorities are ease of use (my wife isn't exactly computer savvy), a well-made iOS app for uploading and viewing, and ease of viewing files remotely (a web portal of sorts would be ideal). Does anyone have any experience or insight with the differences in these 3 options? Thanks in advance for any help! [link] [comments]  |
| How to set up wifi through 3 floors in 2000 sq ft house? Posted: 02 Jan 2019 07:58 PM PST I have a main floor, a top floor, and a full size basement. I have fios on top floor in a corner room. I get good wifi on that top floor but main floor is bad and basement is non-existent. I do not have the option of running ethernet wires for APs and I do not have fios anywhere so no moca adapters either. I'm looking at google wifi but it may be overkill for my 2000 sq ft house and the thing looks like a bunch of wireless extenders so what's the difference between google wifi and getting a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Extender-Repeater-Housing-RE200/dp/B00NR2VMNC ? Also will this help me get wifi vertically through the floor as that's my main issue? [link] [comments]  |
| On/Off Implicit Beamforming, Mu-Mimo & Airtime Fairness? Posted: 02 Jan 2019 07:20 PM PST On my R7000P router these 3 are all enabled by default. I've read conflicting information on what I should do in terms of enable or disable them. What's the consensus on this? For the record I have a 1G/1G FTTH connection and on wifi i consistently get 475/475 range. The devices on my network are: 2 Samsung Note 8s (5ghz wifi), Samsung 4k TV (5ghz wifi), Xbox One X (wired), Roku Ultra (Wired), another Roku Ultra (5ghz wifi), 2 windows 10 laptops (both 5ghz wifi and only used for work so they arent on always) [link] [comments]  |
| Did they mess up my network wiring by stapling the cables? Posted: 02 Jan 2019 07:14 PM PST We are gut renovating a house, and I have been consuming voraciously from this group. I asked the contractor to drop two Cat6 + 1Coax for each room. However, recently I also read that stapling cables is a big no no. Which brings me to this picture - They have already run all the cables and seem to have stapled them intermittently to joists and studs. The staples don't seem to have pinched the jacket of the cable. Am I Ok to proceed or am I screwed? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 06:55 PM PST Perhaps I will answer my question, however I can't find an explanation via Google that adaquetly explains the reasoning. Feel free to answer the question without reading the below if you are certain you can answer without further context. I recently had to expand my my wireless network at home. To do this, I currently: -Configured both routers to be on the same subnet ie. (192.168.0.x) -Shutdown DHCP on router 2. -Set static IP for router 2. -Connext router two via LAN -Disable NAT (well, set to RIP as there is no other way to disable the NAT on router 2, unless of course, this is my answer). Here's why I ask the question. If I plug router 1 lan port into router 2 WAN, I actually get better performance out of Router 2 by about 30%. In this scenario however, I have the routers on different subnets and both providing DHCP. For example, 192.168.0.x and 192.168.1.x so essentially a network in a network. The exception is that I then have a double NAT configuration that I cant disable. In this situation, if I select RIP instead of NAT it completely blocks the internet to all devices on router 2. But, at the end of the day, the double NAT doesnt have a negative impact on my specific needs, so that doesnt really matter to me. To reiterate a previously mentioned point; if I go ahead and leave the NAT on for router 2 configured in the above mentioned manner with Router 2 connected the WAN port, I see about a 30% improvement. So, the final question, why specifically do people say not to connect Router 2 via the wan port. Is it strictly for NAT purposes? Or is there another reason I'm unaware of? [link] [comments]  |
| DIY UPS backup using external batteries Posted: 02 Jan 2019 06:48 PM PST I have ~35 12V 7.2ah batteries that I'd like to run in series for backing up my rack equipment. I have extra shelving above my rack so I'd like to utilize the space with an array of batteries. I do have some concerns with battery behavior, like expanding and possibly spilling causing damage. These are sealed batteries that you'd find in a UPS. I'm open to any suggestions or concerns. [link] [comments]  |
| SmartConnect by Netgear router.. Do I want it on? Posted: 02 Jan 2019 06:39 PM PST I have gigabit by att with 15+ devices (like smart plugs and a few computers). Why would or wouldn't I want to use this feature? Seems like a good concept but of course I want my Xbox using 5g while my nest uses 2.4... Should I enable it? Why or why not? Thanks for the advice. [link] [comments]  |
| Switching ISPs but how do I get the TV signal to the TV? Posted: 02 Jan 2019 06:35 PM PST I could use some help figuring out what options I might have. I've been made a good offer to switch to a new ISP however the new provider uses cable (current is dsl). My problem is that I don't know how to connect my TV properly. There are two rooms: Office * cable line from outside * all ethernet cables in the house come here * current router location Basement * TV location (has wifi and ps4) * has ethernet connection * currently where the dsl line come in The ISP's service for wifi TV is significantly more and not worth the switch. Is there a 3rd party modem I can use with wifi? Cheers [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 05:58 PM PST I really tried for a better title, but honestly, what I put was the best I could come up with. Here's the current situation: Cable Modem -> Wireless Router -> Wireless & Wired Clients My modem and router both reside in the far corner of my (cinder block) basement. Unfortunately, 2 floors up in our bedroom(and on that floor in general), not to my surprise, the wireless signal is less than amazing. Sometimes our laptops will even drop off the network on the top floor. So, I'd like to move the router to the main floor and more or less in the center of the house which I think will drastically improve the wireless reception up stairs. Making the move seems complicated though. The reason is because I would like to run only (1) Ethernet cable to the new location since I'm going to have to fish it through the walls and such. If I move the router, then my wired clients will have nothing to plug into. Seems simple to just add a switch in the basement to resolve this, so: Cable Modem -> Switch ->(wired clients)->Wireless Router->(wireless clients). If I do it this way, won't my wired clients on the switch be on a different logical network than my wireless clients feeding from the router? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 05:22 PM PST I connect to my dorm's wifi through a wireless access point that requires authentication with my username and password (and then i reuse my username and password to login on a portal webpage) and i am only allowed two devices on my account (they use mac address). The thing is i have a raspberry pi that i need to connect to the wifi through ethernet. Would it be possible to use a dd-wrt router to act as a repeater and repeats the wifi signal into the ethernet port and then i can use the raspberry pi and maybe have it on a different subnet so that i could connect more devices but they show up under the router's mac address. Theories i think it can be done but in reality I don't know what to do exactly, i have a moderate experience so I'm not a complete noob so if someone could give me some advices for a starting point that would be great. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 11:21 AM PST Not even sure if this is a double NAT but that's what my research has told me so far, and Plex also told me that. Edit: IP starts with 10, so I'm behind NAT. I'm living in a student village and every room is equipped with a ethernet port which we can use to connect a router so we have WiFi. I did that (TP-Link Archer C7) and want to run a Plex server in my room, however, no matter what I change in my router's settings I cannot connect from the outside to my sever. I don't know the make and model of the edge router and certainly cannot change anything there. Is there anything I can do? I've read in another post that a VPS might help but I don't see how I could communicate with it if I am not accessible from the outside. [link] [comments]  |
| WIFI setup for a 25 person house Posted: 01 Jan 2019 08:58 PM PST I live in a fraternity house that has Charter Spectrum Business internet that's equipped with 1 router for the entire 3 story house (router is located on the second floor) and there are two additional access ports on the third floor, however, one of the AP's is out of commission. This WIFI setup has proved to be very unreliable to the point where its borderline unusable for schoolwork or leisure. We frequently experience extremely slow internet speeds and connection issues. I have personally seen ping spikes as high as 3,000 ms while playing XBOX. I also know the age of most of the hardware in the house is approaching the end of its lifespan. I'm assuming this is a hardware issue, however, I've been told otherwise that it is a usage issue as our usage reports show that we regularly hit our limit of 100x100Mbps per month. It used to be 50x100Mbps per month prior to being upgraded but the issues have not stopped since being upgraded. I've been told that one router and one network is "all we need" and that our WIFI problems will be solved by implementing software that limits the speed of streaming services such as Hulu and Netflix as that makes up most of our bandwidth usage. Is this an effective long-term solution? What exactly do you think the problem is? Is this a hardware issue or is this a bandwidth issue, or both? Any help or suggestions on how to solve these problems or suggestions for a network that can support 25 people would be greatly appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| Can an AmpliFi Instant Router be used as a physical access point? Posted: 02 Jan 2019 05:00 PM PST Currently have an Amplifi HD Mesh in the house, but new configuration means we need to find a way to get a physical connection upstairs (VPN through work gear requires it). We either need to run 100ft of CAT-6 through the walls & attic or I can just set up an AP to plug into at the new location - I'm opting for the latter. Normally the old routers I always set up could be repurposed into APs easily, so I'm hoping to do the same if I purchase a second AmpliFi unit (but the cheaper Instant version for $100). Can I still do this with the AmpliFi? Want to stick with Ubiquiti because I was planning on adding in some MeshPoints later on so might as well keep it all in the same ecosystem. This is in my mother's house so I won't have physical access until this weekend to check, but was hoping I could grab one on Amazon in advance. Thanks for the input. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 08:11 AM PST Hi, I was wondering if anyone had any insight as to what is "best" longterm... Orbi RBK50 or RBK23? RBK50 is currently $299 vs RBK23 being $239 (with a potential $15 extra off). The RBR50 router is obviously AC3000 whereas the RBR20 router is AC2200. What it comes down to, I would say, is will AC2200 be "enough" when taking into account the scalability of technology and ISP offerings in the next few years. I suspect that the RBK23 will ultimately net me more flexibility in range. I have a 3,000 Sq ft L-Shaped split level ranch. I would be looking to expand coverage beyond the house and into the garage - as well as the backyard, which is pretty large. I know most people here are pretty keen on Access Points, and sadly my house did come equipped for Access Points but I am not skilled enough to figure out how to swap out the ethernet wires to Cat6+ - so I am stuck with a mesh option. [link] [comments]  |
| Home/Prosumer Router with Port Filtering (i.e. port 9100 print spam) Posted: 02 Jan 2019 07:40 AM PST I'm sure everyone is well aware of the port 9100 pewdiepie / t-series printer nonsense. Of course it's easy to just block these ports, but I have a friend with a small business that needs the printer ports opened for the software they run. They need to be able to whitelist specific external IP's for port access. I know this is easy with PFSense or a Unify router, but obviously these aren't products you want to suggest to a networking novice. Any suggestions for a consumer/prosumer friendly router with the ability to create this filter? I've had a R7000 for years and I don't believe the firewall will let you make a block/inverse rule that you typically need for this type of blocking EDIT: Just because there seems to be a lot of confusion - This port MUST remain open, it's not anything that can be controlled or modified from the web-based software. It appears initially from responses there won't be a 'magic bullet' of a consumer router with more professional firewall/routing that also remains easy to use. They have a Comcast business gateway which, from previous experience, can be flashed from Comcast's end with more options than the end-user GUI. I have advised them to call and see if a inverse block/whitelist can be flashed in. If its possible i'll update in case someone else runs into this. [link] [comments]  |
| What dictates whether I need a crossover cable? Posted: 02 Jan 2019 05:01 AM PST My Situation
Disclaimer: I am aware that cascading switches is probably not the smartest idea. However, it may spare me from buying a longer cable and besides, this is more of a theoretical question. Many sources say that "old" switches need to be connected with crossover cables. I assume my old switch is from around 2005, though I can't really tell. Newer switches are supposed to work using any networking cable due to automatic detection, Auto-MDI-X, and therefore do not have dedicated uplink ports. Assuming my old switch (whose Uplink port is connected to the router with an Ethernet cable) is not capable of Auto-MDI-X -- would I be able to connect it to a newer switch with just an Ethernet cable? [link] [comments]  |
| Wifi issues after connecting Unifi AP Pro to TP Link Unmanaged switch (TL-SG105) Posted: 02 Jan 2019 08:25 AM PST I have been using my Unifi AP Pro for a few years now, directly connected to an Ethernet port in my living room- with no issues. I recently just added a switch (TP Link Unmanaged switch (TL-SG105) to that Ethernet port, to hardwire the other devices behind my TV. I am noticing regular wifi drop outs - where I need to disconnect from the AP and reconnect before gaining internet access again. Anything obvious in this set up that could be the problem? I realize there could be many options (cable, switch itself, power source for switch..) Too add, nothing was changed on the backend, from the Ethernet port in my living room, back to the ONT. [link] [comments]  |
| Need help choosing a new Wifi router and LAN router to hook together. Posted: 02 Jan 2019 03:47 PM PST I am going to have a new internet connection setup, and I am using the ISP's modem that I ordered without wifi because I want to be able to shutoff the wifi and still use the LAN lines. When we are outside or in the shop, we will use wifi. But I want to shut it off when not in use, especially at night. I will do my downloads through cables, it's faster anyways. So getting their wired modem, and adding my own wifi router after that I can just unplug without losing the net on the devices lined in, is what I am after here. Their modem only has one line out though, so I'm thinking I need a LAN only modem in between theirs and the wifi one. So my questions are these, what are good models to get for this, one LAN router and one wifi one? My house isn't too big, I guess medium sized, 1500sqft or so. I would like wifi outside and our property is pretty big. So further is good, but nothing over $70-$120 bucks. It's been many years since I have bought a router and tried chaining things up like this. Thanks in advance and sorry if it's confusing, I've got a lot going on these days, lol. Please let me know which part of this mess I've tried to explain, is confusing, and I will try to clear it up. Peace. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 03:14 PM PST Hey guys, I am a networking noob so forgive me if this is a dumb question or there is an easy solution that should be obvious. I am running an Asus 86u router flashed with the latest Merlin firmware. I have a VPN setup on the router, some MAC addresses I have excluded for connectivity issues but the computer in question is definitely set to route traffic through the VPN. It seems to work fine when I am using Wi-Fi but when I switch to a wired Ethernet connection my computer seems to ignore the VPN and my true IP address is exposed. Switching back to Wi-Fi fixes the issue. I will soon be adding several wired connections that need to utilize the vpn so I will have to figure this out prior to that. Also I am using Nord VPN if that makes a difference. Although it seems the issue is with a router setting. Any ideas? Thanks ahead of time... [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 03:06 PM PST I've been having an issue with my ARRIS SB6141. My current setup is Coaxial from ISP -> Modem -> Desktop. The issue is that I cannot access the internet. Here are the logs. I have confirmed the device with my ISP, and it shows up on my account. Any help is appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 11:20 AM PST So i'm living with my friends in a house were renting, we already have a network for the house but I was planning on buying my own router or modem for my pc so i would have less lag and hopefully speed up the other network. My room has what looks like a cord that comes up through the floor that I know can go into a router I was just curious whether or not to get another router for myself to put in my room or if I should get a modem. Witch one is faster and what would be more optimle for me all im planning on using it for is gaming on my pc (i think i have a stock intel NIC but im not to worried as i can upgrade that aswell) and possibly my phone. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jan 2019 03:03 PM PST Is there really no driver for this beyond the 2014 one? I am about to return it as its providing worse performance then the cheap chinese adapter I bought before it... Even if I plug that adapter in the back near the card its still giving worse range, and about half speed. Computer shows it running in wireless N instead of AC with only 526mbps transmit rate. This is giving me about 120mbps vs the 220+ my phone gets [link] [comments]  |
| TP-Link Archer AC1200 connectivity issue Posted: 02 Jan 2019 08:52 AM PST Hello all, I bought a TP-Link Archer AC1200 (v2) router back in mid 2018, which I currently use as my only router, no access points or anything, to feed Gigabit (PPPoE) via wired Ethernet to 2 clients, for my home network. It was working well for a while until these past few months. I've been getting constant disconnects and instant reconnects daily (I'm talking at one point during the day, during a minute it disconnects like 10-20 times, showing cable unplugged, and after each disconnect it instantly reconnects). Basically, the "cable unplugged" in Windows. Firmware is of course updated to the latest. I have disabled UPnP, IPv6, set up Google DNS. More recently, I disabled wireless and DHCP (as of a few days ago). Coincidentally, about 2 days ago I had to hardware reset the router because at some point it gave me the yellow sign in Windows, I couldn't access anything, even the router itself (restarting the router, replugging Ethernet cables, restarting the clients, none of that worked). The next day, I had to do the same, for a total of 2 times. I am wondering if it's due to disabling DHCP and manually assigning IP addresses to MAC addresses. Because this never happened before. I called up the ISP and I asked about my internet issues, they said they had no disconnections from them up until my router, so the issues happen appear after my router. I added an Intel Gigabit PCIe and it still happens. The Ethernet cable from the router to my NIC is also new. I was looking into RMAing it and possibly considering an Ubiquiti ERL-3. The TP-Link router has other issues as well besides this and overall, well, doesn't feel like it can do basic functionality right. It's about 3 times the price as the TP-Link AC1200, but if it's quality, I'll pay for it. Now, I'm not actually convinced it's quality. It seems like the ERL has some sort of PPPoE bug which causes packet loss (not sure if fixed), and in addition to that it may not handle Gigabit over PPPoE, I've seen reports of users saying it is limited to 700 Mbps, I'm wondering if they just set it up poorly or it actually is really that bad. Let's face it, throughput wise that is lower than what I get on my TP-Link AC1200, I can even hit around 950 Mbps with PPPoE with this router. Not really a fan of such a situation. Any other alternatives I should consider? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
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