Home Networking Beware buying AmpliFi by Ubiquity |
- Beware buying AmpliFi by Ubiquity
- Is MOCA what I'm looking for here?
- New to MOCA. Help appreciated
- Hitron CGNM-3552 from Rogers (Canada)
- Is it possible to access just one IP address on main network from guest network?
- Router Comparsions
- Could someone explain to me Mesh Networking Town Wide using Tower and its possible speeds in 2018?
- Router recommendation for AT&T fiber
- TP-Link : TL-WR740N - Error code: 26106
- Is my ISP upgrading its infrastructure?
- Which consumer WiFi routers or access points boot up the quickest? Looking for a boot time of less than 30 seconds
- Sharing internet with neighbors?
- Easy fix?
- I know I post in here a lot but I need some help
- Direct connection to a Mesh WiFi Router vs plain WiFi
- Mesh between houses?
- Are ethernet -> coax converters viable? Is there any real discernible connection speed loss?
- Networking help
- Wifi Signal Booster For Connection
- Trying to improve wifi range, have a cantenna, confused how this works.
- Best way to get hooked up to ethernet
- Cheap/Reliable Router to handle large number of devices
- Cat5 PoE fire hazard
- Do I need one or two MoCA filters? New splitters?
- Work from home doing video editing. Experincing constant download speeds of 0.2-0.3mbps
| Beware buying AmpliFi by Ubiquity Posted: 01 Oct 2018 10:48 AM PDT I purchased an AmpliFi system (350 bucks) which included a router and 2 mesh units for my home and was generally pleased with it. I even suggested it to users in this forum I was so pleased. The wifi suddenly died and after chatting with their support people, it was suggested that the router had died and that the solution was to get a new one. The support tech was well aware that I had mesh units as well as the router. I bought a new router (125 bucks) and fired it up but it would not see the mesh units. When I contacted support again I was told that the mesh units are specific to the router and that my mesh units are now useless. In order to get a working system I would have to purchase an entirely new router and mesh units as a package for yet another 350 bucks. If one of the mesh units had died the same thing would happen. I find this to be completely unacceptable and wanted to warn others considering Amplifi as a solution to be aware that they offer no repair service. If any single part of the system dies the entire thing is garbage. I find this business strategy to be extremely shady as nowhere in any of their documentation do they mention that a failure of any single component makes the rest worthless. I would be VERY careful if you are considering Amplifi. There are other manufacturers that do not have this very sleazy business practice that I would strongly urge you to look at instead. Dont get screwed like I did. I will NEVER purchase another product from this company. [link] [comments]  |
| Is MOCA what I'm looking for here? Posted: 01 Oct 2018 06:59 PM PDT I just moved into a house that doesn't have in wall Ethernet so I've been looking at going the moca route since I do have coax everywhere I need Ethernet. I'm currently looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_69SSBbSPTB3VF My setup is currently a Netgear cable modem coming out of the single coax in my living room with my router connected to it. My question is can I receive my internet from my ISP to my modem and use a moca adapter from the router all on the same coax port? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Oct 2018 07:57 PM PDT Hey guys. Cutting the cord and going straight internet and a bit confused about something. If I have FIOS enable the ethernet port and connect that to my router (Ubiq USG) which will be connected to a switch; will I still be able to connect a MOCA at the router and MOCA adapter in a separate room? If so, I'd want to connect a switch to the MOCA in said room.. is this possible before I start ordering? What I'm asking is if I'm able to use both jack/ports? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Hitron CGNM-3552 from Rogers (Canada) Posted: 01 Oct 2018 07:26 PM PDT Hi, I have an extra Hitron CGNM-3552 router and I would like to use it as a repeater to my other home network, anybody know how I could override the proprietary gateway and make it a signal repeater (if that's possible)? Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| Is it possible to access just one IP address on main network from guest network? Posted: 01 Oct 2018 11:46 AM PDT Hi all -- I'm new to this forum. While I'm not necessarily looking for the answer to this question, I have googled it, and I haven't encountered many answers (though if you know the answer and want to tell , feel free!). Scenario: I have a Synology RT1900ac. I have 1) a guest network that I use for all of my friends' phones and my "IoT" devices (Google Homes, Nest stuff, etc.), and 2) a main network that all of my PCs are on. The networks are isolated, and users on the guest network cannot access IP addresses on the main network (as well as having "AP Isolation" turned on, so users on the guest network cannot see each other). However, there is one IP address (a custom DNS server) on the "main" network that I would like to access from the "guest" network. I do not know how to make this happen. Before I continue racking my brains trying to make this happen, does anyone here even know if what I'm asking is possible? I'm not looking for any hand-holding, but if it's not possible, I'd like to know so I can stop bothering to find the answer. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Oct 2018 08:27 AM PDT Hi Guys, Can you advise on something for me! This might be a stupid question, but its worth asking! I have just switched to TalkTalk and their router is awful to say the least. I have been given a Draytek Vigor 2860n and I have purchased a Netgear Nighthawk R7000p. Can you guys advise which would be the best to use from a wireless range and security perspective? [link] [comments]  |
| Could someone explain to me Mesh Networking Town Wide using Tower and its possible speeds in 2018? Posted: 01 Oct 2018 11:47 AM PDT Our town is getting Fiber Internet a small town of about 1000 homes. They are going to user Towers and I assume mesh network the towers. They will have a central tower and then from what we heard balance the network, etc. They are offering 30/10 but there is a ton of people in the town fear mongering saying it's impossible. The company said they plan on running the Radios around 95%+ Is this actually possible with the tech we have these days. Fiber in the town can be quite insane speeds. But is Wireless (Line of Sight) That powerful for 1000 homes? Would they not be maxing out the speeds of the wireless AP's? [link] [comments]  |
| Router recommendation for AT&T fiber Posted: 01 Oct 2018 05:29 PM PDT I've recently had AT&T fiber installed and I'm having problems reaching advertised speeds with my setup. When I directly connect a laptop to the AT&T gateway using Ethernet I get 1K Mbps. I need to use my own router in order to allow for certain things I'm running on my network. So, when I put my AT&T gateway into bridge mode (not really bridge, but IP-passthrough) and connect that to my router which is upstream of all my switches and devices, I can only get about 120 Mbps. My current router is an Asus rt-ac66u running tomato (shibby version). I'm also using ubiquiti access points off of a downstream switch, so I have no need for a router's wifi, I just turn the radios off. I want to run tomato or DD-WRT on whatever router I get. I've read that the Asus rt-ac66u may not be powerful enough to handle the 1K Mbps from the AT&T gateway. I am not really sure how all this works, but I do know that the Ethernet LAN ports on the rt-ac66u are gigabit, so I assumed that they should be able to pass those speeds, but from what I've read that in my current configuration, the router also needs to have a fast, multi core processor, which the rt-ac66u lacks. I've purchased a Linksys WRT3200ACM to upgrade, but I've read that many people have problems flashing firmware to it. Also, that is a more expensive model (compared to WRT1900ACS) mainly due to it's wifi capabilities. Can anyone recommend a router that can run Tomato or DD WRT that will best allow me to take advantage of the AT&T fiber speeds? As I mentioned, wireless capabilities are not a factor. Thank you!! [link] [comments]  |
| TP-Link : TL-WR740N - Error code: 26106 Posted: 01 Oct 2018 05:23 AM PDT I'm trying to port forward on my Router but when i put the IP adress of my Server PC i always get this error:
One problem that i'm seeing is that the IP on the Server PC is "###.###.42.###".. it doesn't match with my routers default gateway and ip at all (it should be "###.###.0.###") The Server PC is connected to the internet via a Android 7.1 phone since the Wifi is completly broken on it. The PC itself is a Windows 8.1 Home, i only have one ethernet cable which is connected to my main PC and i'm not planning to buy another cable. Even when using DHCP it still shows the "42" instead of "0". I'm trying to set the "42" to "0" by manual to both the IP and the default gateway but the internet doesn't work anymore if i do that. The phone's ip is set to static. [link] [comments]  |
| Is my ISP upgrading its infrastructure? Posted: 01 Oct 2018 03:55 PM PDT ISP: Cox cable, 300 down, 18 up Location: New Orleans Modem: Motorola MB8600, DOCSIS 3.1, up to 3.8Gpbs with port bonding Wired router: Ubiquiti ER-X Load end: Windows 10 PC, wired from Ubiquiti router to mobo's Gigabit ethernet NIC, high end gaming PC tl:dr Internet was working fine with green lights on modem indicating single channel connection via DOCSIS 3.0. Then, intermittent connectivity on extended outages occur over 5 days and counting. Modem now connects with blue lights indicating multi channel connection via DOCSIS 3.0. Are the frequent internet outages due to Cox infrastructure upgrades in my area? Is it possible that Gigabit may be offered soon? Is there a way to force my modem to connect using DOCSIS 3.0? The whole story I just moved into a new apartment in downtown New Orleans two weeks ago. I ordered Cox cable internet, 300 Mbps up, 18 Mbps down (fastest they had available). For the first week, my internet worked well. The lights on my modem were all green indicating down and up lanes connected on 1 channel, DOCSIS 3.0. Then, starting last Thursday 9.27.2018, my internet connection is intermittent. One second, it's working great, sub 40ms ping to League of Legends. Next second, I lose connection. It's connectivity interrupt m.o. is to lose upload first (friends can no longer hear me via Discord), but maintains download (I can still hear my friends) for about 2-5 minutes, then total disconnect. The internet connection resumes within minutes to 5 hours later. But this time, the lights on my modem are all blue, indicating "bonded with 2 or more channels" and connected via DOCSIS 3.1. My observation is that total internet uptime since the outages started is <50%. I've called Cox about 5 times now, each time an outage occurs. I have yet to find a tech support that can verify why the issue persists. The last call, I demanded that a tech come out and check the coax signal at my apartment wall. I'll interrogate him and learn more. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Oct 2018 03:38 PM PDT Please allow me to kick off this question by saying that I am not having a problem with my WiFi router or my home network. I am doing a special project which requires the WiFi access point be repeatedly rebooted. Boot time is important so that I can efficiently conclude this experiment. I do not care if I ruin the device by the conclusion of the project. (Or even if I have to buy more than one device to finish the project, if they are cheap devices.) I am using a consumer grade WiFi router in this project. I use it as an access point only. Therefore, I can purchase either a full featured consumer WiFi router or a more limited WiFi AP. I can purchase any device sold in the USA, whether on ebay, Amazon, Best Buy, etc. (I am not near a Micro Center.) I prefer a popular consumer model because those typically allow the option of running dd-wrt or pfsense or other firmware which might allow for tweaks that would further improve boot time. I will also consider enterprise grade devices, but the budget is around US$300 (maybe a little more). The current device I am using is used Netgear R7000 with the latest stock firmware. I have also tested an Asus RT-AC68P. Both of these devices require a full two minutes to go from power-on to connecting WiFi clients. At that rate, this project will not be a success, so I must find a router which reboots faster. Using the router's admin interface to turn wireless radios on/off is not an option. In this project, the router is power cycled via cutting and restoring A/C power randomly as the experiment proceeds. That process must be done remotely (about 30 feet away, without touching the router). As I said, this is an experimental project, not a typical home network. I need a device which goes from power-on to fully functional in under 30 seconds. A 15 or 20 second boot time would be even better. The fastest device I have been told about so far is from this response:
Unfortunately, that person did not say exactly which model TP Link AC1750. I believe there are 5 versions of the Archer C7 and several versions of the Archer C8, and that the hardware differs significantly in some of those versions. I did buy a used Archer C7 v4 and it is being shipped to me. However, I hope to find a router or access point that boots up even faster than 38 seconds. If you wish to help, please give me a reply like the helpful example above, and please include the exact model number and firmware info. I appreciate any and all sincere attempts to assist. This project is important to me and it serves a useful overall purpose. I don't know where else to find this information other than a community of people who have experience with home networking devices. [link] [comments]  |
| Sharing internet with neighbors? Posted: 01 Oct 2018 03:33 PM PDT Hi, I'm currently sharing internet with my girlfriend. The 60 mbps plan from xfinity. Her friends just moved in upstairs and have apparently been mooching off our internet. 3 girls total up there. My gf told me they want to share and pay us for the internet. I'm not comfortable with this, but I'm just worried the internet will be slower for me. Selfish? maybe but i am the one handling payments... Idk. Should I give in and let them pay me/use the internet? If I had it my way, they would get their own service and I wouldn't have to worry about them. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Oct 2018 03:25 PM PDT Howdy, this I assume will be an easy one for you fine people. I have a Netgear D7000 modem/router I added a Google wifi to it via Lan cable and disabled the wifi on the Netgear. Now everything wireless is on the Google and I still have my main PC via Lan to the Netgear.. Problem is from the PC I can't see or control anything on the Google. The Google has handed out IPS in the range of 192.168.86.xx should I change the Netgear to something in that range? Cheers [link] [comments]  |
| I know I post in here a lot but I need some help Posted: 01 Oct 2018 03:24 PM PDT So I have the Verizon Quantum Gateway router and I would like to move it into my room but I'm not sure how to move it. There are only power outlets in my room and no coax or Ethernet outlets so I wanna know how I can get it moved into my room to allow me to have an Ethernet cable going from the router to my pc. [link] [comments]  |
| Direct connection to a Mesh WiFi Router vs plain WiFi Posted: 01 Oct 2018 03:07 PM PDT So I have Google WiFi set up in my house with three routers spread out. I currently only have my PC connected via ethernet to the main Google Wifi Router connected to my modem and an entertainment area with a TV, PS4 and Xbox which connect via WiFi. Would there be any benefit in adding a switch to one of the wireless routers and connecting everything in my entertainment area to the switch? Or is there no point since the router is wireless anyway? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Oct 2018 02:31 PM PDT Would it work to have a mesh network set on the edge of 1 house and the rest of the adapters or whatever in another house next door? Assuming this is possible would the connection be bad? Or would I be better off with a high power router to reach the next door house? I ask because 1 house is mostly empty all year, so paying for service there would be a waste. Trying to find potential solutions. [link] [comments]  |
| Are ethernet -> coax converters viable? Is there any real discernible connection speed loss? Posted: 01 Oct 2018 10:40 AM PDT Hiya! In my home, it appears the only way to connect to the ISP is through an ethernet-male that comes through a hole in my floor. Unfortunately, my router can only connect to a provider via coax (the router has 4 ethernet ports but they're apparently only for output). This got me thinking, what if I setup an ethernet-female -> coax converter so I don't have to get a new router? I have never used a converter like this but they appear to exist. Would such a converter have a significantly negative impact on my internet speed? Should I just buy a new router that can uptake internet from an ethernet port? Thanks in advance for any input [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Oct 2018 02:18 PM PDT I know this isn't exactly the right subreddit. Could anyone help me with subnetting? I'm creating a network for my networking class and I'm stuck. PM and I'll give details [link] [comments]  |
| Wifi Signal Booster For Connection Posted: 01 Oct 2018 02:13 PM PDT Hey guys, first time poster, I recently moved into a house with no cell phone reception (dead zone) and no internet access since the cable was not run up the road. About 300ft down the road to the other road, there is a house on the corner with high speed internet since the cables run along that road but not up the road to me (no cable tv or nothing). I have spoken to the owner about sharing the wireless internet, everything is all good but of course i can't tinker with his router or change any settings or anything like that. My massive question is what are my steps to take in order to get a wireless signal on my phone and laptop in my home. The wireless connection does show up on my laptop and phone but of course not allowed to connect because of the distance. I understand i would need a bridge/access point but my knowledge on everything is very minimal. I'm not picky on speed for the internet, I just want a good enough connection in order to do WIFI calling on my phone. I'm a school teacher so it's been quite difficult not being able to receive calls to teach so any solutions would be greatly appreciated. Any advice or next steps would be a ton of help, thanks everyone. [link] [comments]  |
| Trying to improve wifi range, have a cantenna, confused how this works. Posted: 01 Oct 2018 02:10 PM PDT I'm trying to pick up my wifi signal from a neighboring house just down the street. In my main home I just have a cheap wireless N router (tp-link n300). In the 2nd home I have a cheap asus router that can function as a repeater (I forget the model number). When I go to the 2nd house, my wifi network goes in and out... you can connect only sometimes, and speeds are awful if it even connects. I ended up getting ahold of a canetnna, since I have heard that these things can massively improve reception. I hooked it up to the asus repeater, and aimed it out the window towards my house, and the results were less than stellar. The repeater has 2 antennas. With the cantenna hooked into one of the antenna ports, I will get about 1mbps download speed and almost 0 upload speed. If I connect it to the repeater's other antenna port, I get 0 download speed. Why would that be? Does one antenna port only download and the other upload? And shouldn't the cantenna be performing a lot better than this? I heard that these things were amazing. If I wanted to try to improve this situation without spending a lot of money, what might I do? Should I get a better router in my main home in hopes that it would send out a stronger signal? Try just using a pair of high gain antennas on the repeater instead of a cantenna? [link] [comments]  |
| Best way to get hooked up to ethernet Posted: 01 Oct 2018 01:18 PM PDT Pretty much the title but right now my router is downstairs on the first floor of my house and my Room is on the second floor and my room has no coax outlet or anything besides regular wall outlets. What's the best way for me to have Ethernet for my pc [link] [comments]  |
| Cheap/Reliable Router to handle large number of devices Posted: 01 Oct 2018 01:02 PM PDT Hello, I'm looking for a recommendation on a reliable and preferably cheap router to use in bridge mode with my Telus router. It seems that my Telus T3200M crashes when too many devices are connected at once. We run a family Airbnb, and will sometimes have 30+ devices connected at once! Pretty sure it isn't even a bandwidth or wireless issue, as it is a total dropout in the network including devices connected to ethernet directly to the Telus t3200m, the dropout occurs for about 3-10 minutes, usually at night when everyone is connected. I am not using the wireless features of the T3200m (it's turned off), instead I have Telus Boost Wifi handling all of the wireless signals. For this reason the actual signal strength of the router does not matter, as it will be turned off. I am just looking for advice on a router that can handle a ton of simultaneous connections without dropping. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Oct 2018 12:59 PM PDT I moved into a new house and all phone wiring is cat5 (yay), I paid for network cables as well so each room has a cat5 and cat5e cable. Currently using one of the cat5 cables for a wireless access point, been working great for the past few months plugged into an outlet. I would now like to install a PoE injector which my AP supports. My concern is potential damage on the length of the cable behind the drywall causing spark and potentially starting a fire. When wiring the house I had to cut some of the damaged cable at the jack locations. Some cat5 jacks where very hard to wire as I had to cut almost all of the wire available. I'm worried these cables may have other damage that I cannot see. I also bought a cheap Ethernet tester to make sure I wired everything correctly and all 4 pairs worked which they do. Am I being paranoid of potential fire hazard when using the cat5 cable for PoE? Do I need special PoE RJ45 keystone or it doesn't matter? PS I'm able to get full 1gbps on this cable even though it's cat5. [link] [comments]  |
| Do I need one or two MoCA filters? New splitters? Posted: 01 Oct 2018 06:58 AM PDT I understand that I'll need one point-of-entry MoCA filter where the coax enters my house, immediately before the first splitter. My question is whether I also need a second filter at the coax-in on my cable modem which is an older Arris TM802 that doesn't have a built-in "MoCA immunity filter." Regarding splitters, I have a 5-1000 4-1 splitter as the first split, the first out from this has a direct run to the cable modem, the second out has a direct run to a set top box, the third out goes to a 5-1000 2-1 splitter each of which's outs has a direct run to a set top box, and the fourth out is unused and I'll use it for the MoCA adapter. My questions are, do I need to count on replacing these splitters? If so does it matter as between 5-1675 Holland brand or 5-2300 BAMF brand? This is to add an access point into a room that is hard to cover with wifi with the access points that I have, as a quick fix without running more ethernet cable. Current internet service is 200/35 with up to 400/35 offered by Optimum. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Work from home doing video editing. Experincing constant download speeds of 0.2-0.3mbps Posted: 01 Oct 2018 12:36 PM PDT I do some freelance video editing and lately whenever i try and download large files my internet speeds tank to < 1mbps. I currently pay for 150mbps via comcast. this is happening on both my wired and wireless connections. It seems to go back to normal about 80 mbps down for a bit when i reset my router but it dose not seem to last long. My upload speeds are fine though they are a constant 10-30mbps up. [link] [comments]  |
| You are subscribed to email updates from HomeNetworking, community based networking help. To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
| Google, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043, United States | |
No comments:
Post a Comment