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    Home Unlabelled Home Networking UPnProxy - the final nail in the coffin for UPnP

    Home Networking UPnProxy - the final nail in the coffin for UPnP

    April 22, 2018

    Home Networking UPnProxy - the final nail in the coffin for UPnP

    UPnProxy - the final nail in the coffin for UPnP

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 01:31 PM PDT

    Chances are, if you have UPnP enabled on an Internet facing consumer router, you have been or will be compromised.

    Akamai, the Internet giant, released a report this month where it revealed that it detected bad actors abusing at least 65,000 routers to create proxy networks.

    Here is a summary article.

    Choice quotes from the report:

    How Does The NAT Injection Work?

    The simple explanation of the vulnerability that lead to NAT injections, is that these devices expose services on their WAN interface that are privileged and meant to only be used by trusted devices on a LAN.

    Using these exposed services, an attacker is able to inject NAT entries into the remote device, and in some cases, expose machines behind the router while in other cases inject Internet-routable hosts into the NAT table, which causes the router to act as a proxy server

    How Do I Know If I'm Affected?

    If a device is actively being leveraged for UPnProxying campaigns, there will be no signs to the end user that it is happening.

    Due to the automatic nature of UPnP, NAT, and consumer devices, these rules aren't meant to be maintained by humans. This means there is no easy way for a human to audit or modify them on the devices themselves.

    What's Affected?

    A wide range of devices are affected, most of them being consumer-grade networking hardware. A thorough list of manufacturers, as well as models that were identified based on information from leaky TCP daemons, has been compiled at the end of this document. It covers 73 brands/manufacturers and close to 400 models. There are undoubtedly more manufacturers and devices affected by these vulnerable UPnP implementations. This list is composed only of devices that we could positively identify.

    How to Fix It

    If a device is affected by this vulnerability, there are only a few options for mitigation. The first would be to replace the device with something else that you've confirmed is not vulnerable to these types of attacks. If replacing the device is not an option, it is typically possible to disable UPnP services on the device. However, this could have impacts in other areas of your network, such as gaming or media streaming.

    In cases where neither of these options work, deploying a firewall in front of your affected device and blocking all inbound traffic to UDP port 1900 will prevent the information leaks that make TCP daemon discovery possible. If your device is already compromised, this would still allow proxy injection and proxy usage. Manually removing these injections would stop proxy usage, but would not prevent future injections from happening, making this solution a game of whack-a-mole.

    Summary

    The UPnProxy vulnerability, like many of the problems we've seen recently, was caused by unauthenticated services being exposed to the public Internet in ways they were never meant to be. Attackers have taken several aspects of known issues with UPnP and combined them to create a powerful proxy network to hide their traffic. While this is neither a remote exploit that allows the attacker to take over a computer nor a new reflection vector for DDoS, it is still a significant concern because of how it allows the origin of traffic to be hidden.

    End users will not be able to detect a vulnerability like this on their own, and it's possible an investigation could wrongly assign blame to an innocent party because traffic is exiting through their router. Manufacturers need to stop enabling protocols like UPnP on external interfaces; after more than a decade since this issue was discovered, it continues to plague consumer devices. Carriers and ISPs also need to examine whether they should be allowing protocols that are meant for trusted LAN usage to be traversing their networks.

    [sic. Notable] Affected Manufacturers/Models:

    ASUS

    DSL-AC68R, DSL-AC68U, DSL-N55U, DSL-N55U-B, MTK7620, RT-AC3200, RT-AC51U, RT-AC52U, RT-AC53, RT-AC53U, RT-AC54U, RT-AC55U, RT-AC55UHP, RTAC56R, RT-AC56S, RT-AC56U, RT-AC66R, RT-AC66U, RT-AC66W, RT-AC68P, RT-AC68R, RT-AC68U, RT-AC68W, RT-AC87R, RT-AC87U, RT-G32, RT-N10E, RT-N10LX, RTN10P, RT-N10PV2, RT-N10U, RT-N11P, RT-N12, RT-N12B1, RT-N12C1, RT-N12D1, RT-N12E, RT-N12HP, RT-N12LX, RT-N12VP, RT-N14U, RT-N14UHP, RT-N15U, RT-N16, RTN18U, RT-N53, RT-N56U, RT-N65R, RT-N65U, RT-N66R, RT-N66U, RT-N66W, RTN13U, SP-AC2015, WL500

    Belkin

    F5D8635-4 v1, F9K1113 v5

    D-Link

    DIR-601, DIR-615, DIR-620, DIR-825, DSL-2652BU, DSL- 2750B, DSL-2750B-E1, DSL-2750E, DVG-2102S, DVG- 5004S, DVG-N5402SP, RG-DLINK-WBR2300

    Edimax

    3G6200N, 3G6200NL, BR-6204WG, BR-6228nS/nC, BR-6428, BR6228GNS, BR6258GN, BR6428NS

    FreeBSD router

    1, 1.2.2, 1.2.3-RELEASE, 2.0.1-RELEASE

    NETGEAR R2000, WNDR3700, WNDR4300v2, WNR2000v4

    OpenWRT

    Version identification was not possible

    Ubiquiti

    AirRouter LAP-E4A2, NanoBeam M5-N5B-16-E815, AirGrid M5-AG5-HP-E245, PowerBeam M5-P5B-300- E3E5, NanoBridge M5-NB5-E2B5, PicoStation M2- p2N-E302, NanoStation M5-N5N-E805, NanoStation Loco M5-LM5-E8A5, NanoStation Loco M2-LM2-E0A2, NanoBeam M5-N5B-19-E825, AirGrid M5-AG5-HP-E255

    ZyXel

    Internet Center, Keenetic, Keenetic 4G, Keenetic DSL, Keenetic Giga II, Keenetic II, Keenetic Lite II, Keenetic Start, NBG-416N Internet Sharing Gateway, NBG-418N Internet Sharing Gateway, NBG4615 Internet Sharing Gateway, NBG5715 router, X150N Internet Gateway Device

    submitted by /u/getfuture
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    Asus - RT N66U changed it's language to Korean and set a strange DDNS by itself

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 08:18 AM PDT

    Hello all,

    Today I was using my phone while all of a sudden my WI-FI craps out. I immediately logged in to my router interface on 192.168.1.1 to find out it has changed to this language: https://imgur.com/a/Fwr0DEq the entire interface had this language. I am the only one in my house with the login data to access the configuration and I did not set it up like this.

    I also noticed that my DDNS was set to this address: 'emkak57039.asuscomm.com'

    This is what I have done so far:

    • Reset the router
    • Updated the firmware to the latest one (official)
    • Turned off UpNp
    • Set DNS to get it from the ISP automatically
    • Changed the login name and password of the router
    • Changed the WI-FI password of 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz

    We are also experiencing slower internet, sometimes lag and unstable connections on WI-FI. We have 400Mbit Down and 40Mbit up via cable but WI-FI is also 50% less of that. On 2.4GHZ it's 25% of that speed.

    But even now that the router has been completely reset it changes to the Korean language and says my internet config has been updated. Nothing has changed what I can see in the configuration screen. I refresh the page and it's English again.

    What is happening?

    EDIT: Thanks guys! I flashed the original firmware (latest one) and reseted my router. Also set HTTPS in the admin area. Got faster internet now!

    submitted by /u/chainboost
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    Ubiquiti AP's VS TP-LINK AP's??

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 08:23 PM PDT

    G'day everyone,

    Looking at grabbing a few AP's for my place and have noticed a difference in pricing regarding TP-Link and Ubiquiti AP's.

    Not interested in the controller software, more interested in wall penetration and distance.

    What would you all recommend? Currently looking at the EAP-110/115 & Ubiquiti AP-LR. The current price of an 110 is about $39 compared to the $129 of the unifiy ap

    Cheers

    submitted by /u/gebuswon
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    My router bandwidth usage page doesn't make sense to me.

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 01:37 PM PDT

    https://i.imgur.com/QVvRwKY.jpg

    I enabled tracking it this morning, then downloaded a few gigs of data. To me, this is only showing 88MB of data downloaded which is obviously way off. Am I reading this wrong? I'm trying to figure out what things in my house are using up all my data, but this makes no sense.

    Router: AC1750

    submitted by /u/ponzLL
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    VLAN's and Layer 3, Mikrotik switch questions

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 07:08 PM PDT

    My current network consists of no VLAN's. However, I might want to change that soon, or in the future. I am also planning a network overhaul to add 10G, so now is a good time to figure out what I want

    My Current setup goes like this:

    pfSense 1G Copper >>> Cisco SG300-28P >>>> Everything else

    But, I want to add 10G SFP+ for my ESXi box, and my Synology NAS. So I need to decide on a switch

    • If I setup a VLAN in pfSense, and have my switch in L2 mode. Does all of the VLAN to VLAN traffic go over the single 1G link back to pfSense? If I have a lot of VLAN to VLAN traffic I could see this causing bandwidth issues

    • If I have a L3 switch, does it mean I can have it do the VLAN to VLAN connections? How would I go about setting this up?

    • Could I have a few L2 "Access" switches, and then a single, beefy 10G "Core" switch that does VLAN to VLAN routing. This would remove all the load from pfSense? Is this generally hows its done?

    • Is the CRS317-1G-16S+RM a good candidate for this Core switch? I have read that it has less than ideal L3 performance.

    • Assuming I am only going to have a few small VLAN's, is there any point in getting an L3 access switch?

    Assuming my switch config is below, where would my pfSense router connect?

    CRS317-1G-16S+RM (16 x 10G SFP+) >>>>>> fs.com S1600-48T4S (Via the 4 x SFP+) >>>> Everything else

    Should I just get an SFP+ card in my pfSense box, and connect it to the "Core" CRS317? Or should I just connect to the S1600 "access" switch?

    submitted by /u/IndependentRecipe6
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    Is it possible to setup a WAP to my router-generated Guest Network?

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 07:08 PM PDT

    Hey guys! I hope you are well. I have a Tp-Link AC1350 Archer C60 router connected directly to my modem as my private network. I also make use of their feature to create a subnet Guest Network (isolated from my own LAN). However, the signal for the guest network gets really weak on the other side of the house. With that said, my question is: is it possible to extend my guest network (GN) using a Wireless Access Point since my GN is not generated by a "physical router" (as in: one that I can plug an Ethernet cable on the LAN/WAN port)?

    Thank you for your time!

    submitted by /u/the_newb_butt
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    Issue with dropped connections

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 06:12 PM PDT

    Hello all,

    I have simple (aka cheap) TP-link N300 router and an Arris CM820a modem (provided by ISP). The router is running its stock firmware. Connected to router are the following:

    Wired:

    Xbox360 (Constantly on)

    LG Bluray Player (internet is almost never used)

    Wireless:

    Roku Express

    Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge running Android 7

    HTC One 10 running Android 8

    Samsung Tablet (not connected all the time)

    HP Laptop running Windows 10 (not connected all the time)

    Amazon Kindle Fire

    ISP service is 60 mbps down/8 up. I get this speed pretty consistently.

    The issue is the two phones will randomly disconnect and reconnect while watching streaming services such as Netflix or Hulu. I also find that I have to power-cycle the router every 2-3 days when I find that my connection speeds severely drop. I live in a 1400 sq ft 2-story townhome. The router sits in the middle of the town home on the bottom floor. I'm thinking up upgrading to the TP-Link Archer C9 or the TP-Link C2300 and using the N300 as an extender upstairs. Thoughts? Recommendations?

    submitted by /u/MightySchwa
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    Simple switch advice

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 06:04 PM PDT

    I'd like a managed switch with PoE and while I can only think of 5 things I'll be connecting to it, I'd like to get an 8+ port switch just in case. I was looking at the Cisco SG200-08P, the Netgear GS108PEv3, and the TP-Link TL-SG108PE. Which would you folks recommend or if there's something else you'd recommend in the new sub-$100 range I'd appreciate it. If there's something used in that range I'd consider it as well.

    Bonus points if I can get something suitable in the ~$50 range.

    Thank you

    submitted by /u/applythrottle
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    News switch recommended

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 05:47 PM PDT

    What kinda switch do you guys recommend putting in a 1200 sq ft house with 4 bd a basement and living room. Kids want to be able to hardwire the PS4 and Xbox . And my modem/router 4 ports are being used already. I have 200mbps from cable company

    submitted by /u/BAMIKE19
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    Router going down everytime phone rings.

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 11:15 AM PDT

    Hey there, quite a noob when it comes to networking just thought id give this subreddit a shot. I moved by BT Home Hub today from downstairs to upstairs to connect my gaming pc via Ethernet, now every time the house phone rings it disconnects everyone from the wifi very frustrating. Any ideas?

    submitted by /u/jackm9301
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    Using Old Telecom System for Ethernet

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 04:58 PM PDT

    Hello, complete noob here. I'm trying to convert my old OnQ 1 x 9x Telecom Module to ethernet. The house was built with Cat5e cables throughout the house, but I cannot figure out how to get the cables running with any internet. I currently have what I believe is an XFINITY xFi Gateway router, but no idea how to set that up with my current system (If that's even possible). Can anyone tell me the best method of action here?

    submitted by /u/gkline23
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    Best router(s) for large family/house? 10-15 users, 20-30 devices.

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 11:51 AM PDT

    Hi all. Recently at my house we've been having some network latency issues, notably jitter but also connectivity / signal noise. This has coincided with the addition of 4 family members to the household making a static 10 residents, with an average of 2 devices connected per person.

    To compound this, 2 additional family members visit often, and this summer we will have another 5 family members staying on top of that, which I estimate to mean about 30 devices potentially connected at one time.

    Unfortunately our garbage Virgin Super Hub 3.0 struggles with 10 devices in a reasonable environment (like connecting to the router in the room across the hall). To make things more complicated, our house is 9 bedrooms, and being just 1 room aside from the current router is enough to put the jitter at ~100 ms with just that device connected. With ~15 devices connected around the house we often have dropped connections, though often it holds with just the jitter and unstable speeds. I'm worried with the addition of 10-15 new devices that the internet will be unusable.

    So as you can see I am looking for a new router or two - something strong and capable of providing a good connection to a large number of devices... wirelessly. I'm not sure if it is a possibility but ideally this router would be considerably more capable at sending a good signal through out troublesome walls floors. Signal noise is often around ~-88dB even with just 1 wall between the device and router - next to the router it is about ~-60dB. Further than 1 room away it varies from -80 to -93dB.

    To comment on the jitter/latency again, I have been testing with basic speed-tests. I know for Wi-Fi this is not ideal - I have tested hard-wired and these issues do not exist (well, jitter is about 20ms which I understand is not perfect but seems acceptable to me, all things considered). In my room, with my PC ideally positioned for connectivity, I get:

    • ~34ms average latency
    • ~100ms jitter

    With PC positioned more suitably for general use, I get:

    • ~35-40 average latency (with anomalous higher averages)
    • ~200-300 jitter (rising to 1000ms on occasion)

    In the room with the most issues (2 rooms and 1 floor from router)

    • ~100 ms but fluctuates greatly
    • Anywhere from 600ms to 3200 ms jitter

    As you can see, average latency can hold steady in most rooms (the router is fairly central in the house). However the jitter is atrocious - up to 3 seconds of delay at times.

    Hopefully I have provided enough information for what my problems are and thus, what I'm looking for in a router to address them. I have read about the TP-Link Archer C7, which I was looking at buying, but with the number of users we will have staying at the house, I thought I would ask here first to see if a more heavy-duty router may be necessary. I also realize it is very likely we will need a second router/AP also. Unfortunately we have only 2 rooms at opposite ends of the house that are connected with ethernet cable. Whilst I realize that should do, we still had problems with this setup before using 1 Super Hub 3.0 and 1 Coredy RT1200 (of which the 5G no longer seems to be functioning...). I am considering cabling another room if it is advised (for a 3rd router/AP).

    I just want to reiterate that connecting through walls/floors seems to create considerable, compounding jitter in our house - and I am wondering if this is something that a superior router(s) will make considerably better, or if it is something in the structure of the house that creates this issue, good router or no.

    submitted by /u/Conyeah
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    High ping when hardwired into router (1,200ms), but low ping (3ms) when plugged into modem

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 02:13 AM PDT

    Hi,

    On my PlayStation, I was/am currently having an issue with immense lag, and 1,200+ms ping while playing Fortnite. I disconnected my router, and hardwired my PS4 directly to my modem. My ping then changed to 4ms.

    I don't really mind having my router disconnected and not having WiFi while I'm gaming (I have good cell service here), but once in awhile is quite inconvenient. Nobody else uses my WiFi, and it is password protected. I live in the barracks, and I'm not sure if that could/would be the cause of this issue.

    I would really appreciate help/advice!

    Router: R6300v2

    Average speeds on laptop (using WiFi): Download: 106.4 Upload: 11.2 Ping: 128ms ———————— Average speeds on laptop (while hardwired to router) Download: 92.1 Upload: 10.00 Ping: 70ms ————————

    submitted by /u/AquaSense
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    ASUS RT-AC88U Losing 400 mbps in LAN...solutions??

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 02:06 PM PDT

    Gigabit internet through xfinity, speedtests 985mbps directly from modem but tops around 600 through the switch in the router...i'm curious if anyone has this router and is able to get more out of it, i still have time to return it and go for something else, but i'm shocked to find out that i'm losing so much through the router's switch.

    submitted by /u/drzaxo
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    Do stickers affect router performance?

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 01:24 PM PDT

    I just recently bought the T-Mobile branded ASUS AC-1900 and was looking to cover those T-Mobile and "CellSpot" decals on it with stickers around my apartment, but was curious if adding stickers will affect performance at all? I'm sure it doesn't, just looking for a second head to verify. Thanks!

    submitted by /u/Gorezillla
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    Need assistance with third party router

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 01:11 PM PDT

    Long story short, my current service provider is Hyperoptic (UK) - I'm meant to be getting 150 mb broadband, however, the router we have been provided with is awful. Speeds with an Ethernet are reliable and fairly close to the advertised speeds, however, wireless we get around 10 mb on average and at peak times it becomes unusable.

    With this in mind, I'm looking into getting a third party router as from research it seems to fix the issue, however, I have very little knowledge on what will work and what won't. So far I've narrowed down to two options:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-Button-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XUDWDZE/ref=psdc_430579031_t3_B003Y5RYNY

    Hyperoptic's guidelines are as follows (https://www.hyperoptic.com/faq/posts/connecting-a-non-hyperoptic-router/)

    "If you would like to use a third party router, please ensure that it accepts an Ethernet connection, as ADSL routers are not compatible with Hyperoptic's service.

    If you are a 1Gb customer, no specific configuration is required. If you are a 30Mb or 150Mb customer, your router needs to support /31 (255.255.255.254) subnet mask on its WAN port in order for the router to work with Hyperoptic's service.

    Hyperoptic DNS servers are 141.0.144.2 and 188.172.144.204, although you can use your own DNS settings if required."

    Is anyone able to advise if the routers I have linked are suitable and what I will ultimately have to do setup? I am not too concerned on getting the fastest possible speeds, just a reliable wifi connection.

    Thanks in advance.

    submitted by /u/FM1994
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    As a layman, can I (or can you?) tell me what kind of CAT-Cable this is? (pictures included)

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 12:51 PM PDT

    Hello again. A few weeks ago I posted a few question about Powerline and in the end it turned out that Powerline is not what I need. Since then I've been searching for a good solution.

    Now... today I found a little treasure. I removed a plastic panel at the wall and found 3 yellow cables. Now I have no clue about networking but I am pretty sure these are networking cables.

    See this photos im imgur.

    If my guess is correct that would solve all of my issues. All I'd have to do is mount some RJ45 plugs onto the cables and they should work. BUT... now I learned there are several CAT-Types (Cat 5, Cat 5e, Cat 6,...).

    Now I'm not sure which RJ45-Plugs I should buy because on Amazon there are a few for each.

    The house was built in 2005 if that is of any help.

    I already checked if there is something written on the cables but it only says the name of the manufacturer, and a lot number, but I doubt that calling the manufacturer and asking what cable was used in lot number xxx 13 years ago would do much.

    So I'm hoping you guys can maybe help me?

    Thank you in advance!

    submitted by /u/Wundawuzi
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    Question/Help Connecting Nighthawk Router To Spectrum Router

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 08:35 AM PDT

    So a bit of background. I have a Netgear Nighthawk AC3200, and I've had it connected to my basic Spectrum cable modem for the last couple of years. The signal on the router doesn't reach to the other side of the house where the bedrooms are. Hasn't ever really been an issue until recently because I ran a 50' ethernet cable, through the attic, to my bedroom. So, I called up Spectrum and they sent me their newest router (Sagemcom) for free. So I figured, I can use the Spectrum router on one side of the house, and the Nighthawk on the other side of the house, by connecting the Nighthawk to the Sagemcom via the 50' ethernet cable. I went ahead and did it, but when you connect to the Nighthawk, the speeds are really low. The systems are only about 8-10' away from the Nighthawk, but the speeds are not high enough to game online or even stream on Netflix via the PS4's. Should I be doing something else to the Nighthawk in the settings to make the speeds faster? The Sagemcom router they gave me is working great, but the Nighthawk is seriously lacking now. I have the Sagemcom on channel 6 and the Nighthawk on channel 11 so they don't interfere with each other. I have a 300Mbps service with Spectrum. Could it be the fact that I'm using a 50' ethernet cable to connect the Nighthawk to the Sagemcom? I'm not too tech savvy when it comes to networking. So any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    submitted by /u/Wrecklesssss
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    Can someone please help me understand why an external HD is mounting as a USB modem??

    Posted: 21 Apr 2018 11:23 PM PDT

    Like the title says...

    Connected to my ISP provided Hitron modem I have an ASUS RT-AC1900 as my main router. I have two g technology drives that I am trying to use as NAS. One of the drives mounts as it should and accessible from web. The other when connected to the ASUS is mounted as a USB modem (no other options) and actually works as a failover for dual WAN. Again this is just an external drive... it has no onboard networking capabilities that I'm aware of yet it mounts and operates as such. Why? Here is a pic of my Asus ip config page showing the usb 2.0 external and the USB modem.

    Thank for the help!

    submitted by /u/pickengrin
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    Recommendation on a wifi extender?

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 10:20 AM PDT

    My landlord recently upgraded the internet to 5G and got a dual band modem/router. Since then, the connection in my suite has been trash.

    • Can anyone recommend a good wifi extender? I know everyone says they're shit, but there's no option to hardwire, and I can't use powerline since my apartment has it's own breaker. Is there any other option I could consider?

    Additional info:

    • I live in a portion of their basement, and they occupy the rest of the house.
    • Their router is also in the basement, and is 6 feet away from my bedroom on the other side of the wall, yet, I have almost zero coverage in my room. I can at times connect to various APs he's set-up but they drop quite frequently (all APs are from the same router)
    • The kitchen area (only 20 feet from my bedroom) is better for connectivity but the speeds are still slow (2-10 Mbps down).
    • None of this was an issue prior to them upgrading to faster internet, so I'm assuming its the result of the new router (I used to pull 40Mbps down on a 2.4G network anywhere I was in my apartment).
    submitted by /u/jindingdong
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    Wired 100 mbit/s or Wireless 150 mbit/s

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 12:22 AM PDT

    So the other day I got a new internet plan which includes 150 mbit/s down. I decided I would wire some devices in my home.

    All ethernets in my walls running into ethernet ports are cat 5e except the one in my room, it is cat 5. This means I can only achieve a wired speed of 100 mbit/s, while a speed of roughly 150 mbit/s (inconsistent) can be reached through a wireless connection. My wireless signal strength is 90-95%.

    For my Xbox which is used for gaming and downloading updates:

    Would it be better to get a consistent 100 mbit/s and low latency of around 30ms or 150 mbit/s (can dip to as low as 50 sometimes) and a decent latency of sub 50ms?

    Thanks for any suggestions

    EDIT: From your suggestions, it seems I may have made a mistake somewhere when crimping the wire and/or connecting the line to the keystone jack in the wall. If it doesn't get fixed, I suppose I'll go wired anyways.

    SOLUTION: Using my cable tester if I only plug the cable into the tester on both ends, all 8 lights come up (8 wires). If I plug one end into the modem, something I never did before, and one end into the tester, the first light does not light up (1 wire is not running a signal). This makes me believe it was a bad termination as suggested by some of you.

    I am now getting 150 down and 15 up with about 25 ping. I redid the key stone jack in the wall.

    submitted by /u/iFarSuperior
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    LF a router for my 400sq ft apartment

    Posted: 22 Apr 2018 07:23 AM PDT

    Hello everyone. I live in a small 400 sq ft apartment and my current router's speed way below my internet plan's. I am paying for 1000MB/s and I usually use it for gaming. My biggest issue is that having wires around my tiny apartment is impossible to manage so I use wifi on all my devices. Please recommend me some routers that can suit my needs. If possible please recommend me a couple of good wifi range extenders as well that has LAN ports. Thanks and sorry if this post was not too clear.

    submitted by /u/AwesomenessRM
    [link] [comments]
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