Home Networking Ubiquiti compromised.. Recommending change passwords/enable 2FA. |
- Ubiquiti compromised.. Recommending change passwords/enable 2FA.
- Comcast HATES my MoCA
- Enabled AP mode on NetGear NightHawk 6900 and now I’ve lost network connection I can connect to the router but it isn’t connected to WiFi, and when I try routerlogin.net and try typing in the IP address it doesn’t work. Help!!!
- Netgear vs linksys vs asus
- Help locating Cat5e fault
- Trying to get the families ethernet working
- PDANET Ethernet cellphone to router - examples ?
- Looking for Fast/Cheap Wireless solution
- PVID on Vyos
- Router Recommendation/Advice - Ubiquiti UAP-AC-PRO
- Not getting full speeds on Windows 10
- Island internet questions
- The coax in my house going into some of my coax outlets is faulty but not to the point where it doesn't work. What could be the cause of this and how do I fix it?
- Unused pvc, basement to attic?
- Too much WiFi for new home?
- Wifi solution for a long (longish) house? Mesh?
- Issues aroung my 2.4 ghz connection
- Ways to extend wifi in an old apartment
- Any suggestions for a Temporary WiFi setup in a Rental Home?
- Inconsistent VLAN Tagging with Cable Modem
- Switch with a slave mesh
- House is prewired cat5e, messy junction box, I think I need a patch panel?
- tp-link tx 3000 random speed drops
- I think I found the love of my life but I might loose that chance if I won't set up her internet [configuration of asus rt-n12e router, enabling WAN port]
- How do I drill through my attic floor into my closet below while making sure I don't hit any pipes or wires?
| Ubiquiti compromised.. Recommending change passwords/enable 2FA. Posted: 11 Jan 2021 12:12 PM PST Per Brian Krebs on Twitter. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:44 AM PST So. Comcast is over here right now and they are saying that my GoCoax moca adapers are taking down their network in the entire neighborhood. Something about reaching out to other modems and cable boxes IP? The outbound line has a MoCA filter on it. We have a distribution amp that goes up to 2GHz for the house. I'll update this as I learn more...but for now, is what they're saying BS? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:17 PM PST |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:11 PM PST Looking to upgrade my netgear r7000 router to a wifi 6e when it comes out this year. I have a gigabit connection and my router 5ghz band sometimes disconnected and I have to reconnect. The 2.4ghz doesn't have this problem. Should I get the netgear nighthawk series for wifi 6e or linksys or Asus? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:08 PM PST Hi everyone, I've recently reterminated a cat5e cable and no longer have continuity across one of the wires. I tested the cable with my crappy monoprice cable tester, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63 and LED #8 did not light up. Now I'm no pro, but I've terminated a few dozen of these cables before and I've never had any issues. I've since cut this cable and reterminated it two more times, once in a punch down jack and once with an rj45 connector, and every time I've had the exact same issue - no continuity on wire #8. I'm thinking I must have damaged the cable somehow, but I have no idea where the damage is. The cable runs through the wall from a media enclosure, and the portion I can see in the wall cavity is hanging freely, not pinched, and not stuck on anything from what I can tell. Unfortunately the network cables in my condo are stapled to the studs in all other walls, or else I'd just pull a new cable through. How can I troubleshoot this? I know of better cable testers that can provide a lot more data, but I have no idea how to choose one or even if it would help. Thanks in advance to anyone who can provide some guidance. [link] [comments]  |
| Trying to get the families ethernet working Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:57 PM PST Hey guys, trying to help a family member out with their internet in a house they recently bought. The old owner had an On-Q home system installed which isn't being used anymore (nor do they intend to). (They've already had an ISP come out and get them WiFi) I don't have alot of experience with networks, but I'm the "tech" in the family lol. They do have ethernet running throughout the house, but it's not hooked up. Saw in another post from here talking about just ripping out the on-q home system and just hooking everything up to a switch. Not exactly sure if thats what is needed or not. Took pictures of their current wiring cabinet situation:
[link] [comments]  |
| PDANET Ethernet cellphone to router - examples ? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 11:05 AM PST Is anyone using a cellphone as internet via Ethernet connection of cellphone to router ? Supposedly can do this with PDANET and adapter. [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for Fast/Cheap Wireless solution Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:49 PM PST Hey there guys, I am in the middle of changing around my network a little bit but its going to give me a problem to solve here that I was trying to think of a creative way to make it cheaper but I'm not all that knowledgeable and wanted more experienced input. Right now I have Centurylink internet that goes through a router/modem combo that I then have wired into a Brocade 6610 that is attached to my HP DL380. On the way is a supermicro cse-815-5 that I'm going to run Pfsense on for router/firewall. I'm also likely going to switch to Xfinity to get gig internet and will buy my own modem since I found some DOCSIS 3.1 on ebay for about 70. This leaves me lacking on wireless though as I know that Pfsense compatibility with wireless cards is not good and I'm looking to hopefully upgrade the wireless, not downgrade. The most obvious option seems to be just getting a WAP and plug into the switch but it seems that if I want to go to 802.11ax and actually be able to utilize the bandwidth then it will cost 200+. Trying to get as fast as I can without spending much money. At least one other option I considered would be to run ESXI on the server instead of pfsense on the metal and maybe try to find an OS to run beside it that would be compatible with a faster wireless card and act as an AP? But my question is if that will slow down the PFsense in any measurable way. It would somewhat be good to run ESXI anyways because with just pfsense I don't know what I'd ever use the 4 HDD bays for on that server. OR if it would hinder performance too much I could just run it on the DL380 instead. But all of this is only if there is even an OS I can load to basically only run an AP. OR, somebody here just has a vastly better plan that what I'm thinking because that happens a lot as there are people who know more than I do on here. One other question I also kinda had is if I can't get 802.11ax at a reasonable cost, to maximize a slower wifi, could I get something with multiple ethernet ports and aggregate between my switch and AP? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:39 PM PST I am trying to set up native a native VLAN port on a virtual VyOs router. I know there is no practicality of this, but this is in a GNS3 environment and I just want a deeper understanding of how PVID works. Does anyone know how I would set this up? Here is the setup: VLAN1: 192.168.1.1/24 VLAN2: 10.0.0.1/24 eth1: no tagging (VLAN1): I can successfully ping the gateway eth2 tagging (VLAN2): I am not able to ping the gateway. I tried setting up QinQ, but I still haven't had any success. On port eth2, the outer packet (vif-s) is VLAN 2 with the address of 10.0.0.1/24, the inner packet (vif-c) is VLAN 1 with address 10.0.0.1/24. I'm assuming the problem is my addressing within QinQ. The vif-c would have to be VLAN 1 right? Is QinQ even the right way to go about this problem? Any help would be appreciated so I am able to better conceptualize how PVID works. [link] [comments]  |
| Router Recommendation/Advice - Ubiquiti UAP-AC-PRO Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:38 PM PST Hi, I currently live next door to family, and have been unashamedly borrowing their internet/network for the last 2 years. This solution worked well, and was essentially just an Ethernet cable from the modem/router over the fence to a UAP-AC-PRO access point in my house. I am moving house next week, and will have to set up my own network - the property is small enough that a single router/access point will provide ample coverage for my needs. A bit of research has led me to believe that the 2 main solutions to this are: 1) ISP supplied modem => ubiquiti edgerouterX => UAP-AC-PRO. 2) Buy new wireless-router (are there any recommendations?) Option 1 seems like the clear winner, considering that I already have the financial investment in the AP - is there any reason why this is not the best option? Is there anything I am missing? Cheers [link] [comments]  |
| Not getting full speeds on Windows 10 Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:34 PM PST I recently moved and now have AT&T Fiber 1000. However, on my PC I am not getting those full speeds. I can get the speeds I expect when using a different computer on the same connection (cable, port, etc.). I originally was getting only around 180 Mbps, but after playing around with TCPOptimizer I managed to get up to 410 Mbps, but still no where near the 900+ I should be getting. I tested the speeds with Ubuntu live and got around 930 so it's definitely an issue with Windows. Does anyone have any suggestions for settings in TCPOptimizer, other suggestions, or is it just time to reinstall Windows? Thanks! EDIT: Want to add some info. I was originally getting 180/900+, after tweaks I get 400/200. I'm expecting around 900/900. I'm utterly confused. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 03:30 PM PST So currently I live on Guam and when I play most games and use most services, my internet by default uses servers based from the west coast(140+ ping). I recently tried using a program called exitlag and learned that I could be connected to Japan and have been playing on 55 ping. I was wondering a few things: What exactly is exitlag? Would a regular vpn do the same? How can I change the way my internet is routed? Or can I by default make my internet use Japan? Basically I can keep using this program and paying for it but I want to know if I can apply any settings so that other devices such as my Xbox or PlayStation could have lower ping to japan servers as well since I can't use a vpn on them. Thanks in advance for any help [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:15 PM PST I used to have issues with my internet connection occasionally cutting out for a minute. When I called a tech out, they said that the coax connection in my house was at fault. In line with this, the issue was fixed by connecting the modem directly to the coax cable going into the house from the ISP. What may be causing this? Also, how do I test which coax outlets fully work and which ones work inconsistently? [link] [comments]  |
| Unused pvc, basement to attic? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:31 PM PST I have an exploding rubix cube house, as some general contractors would say. 30 years old, 2-3 additions. Since we moved in, we've replaced the furnace, which required a new double run pvc, which left the original single pvc run to the roof capped/unused. Would LOVE to use this to pull as much wiring as I can up to my attic/2nd floor office. I bought those screw together fiber pull sticks, cut holes in the pvc, and tried to pull some Cat 6 from the basement up. Call it an art, or I'm just not made for it, I couldn't get the sticks all the way down. My uneducated guess is there are some crazy pvc bends in the walls that I don't see, or some reverse flow blockers. What am I missing, any suggestions? I'm at the point where I'm willing to bring in a low voltage pro to just get it done... [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:15 PM PST |
| Wifi solution for a long (longish) house? Mesh? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:14 PM PST I have a kind of large house that's unfortunately oblong, in other words, "long". I'd like to be able to wander around anywhere in it and still get a good wifi signal. House is wired fairly well with Cat 5e everywhere. I just want the whole house blanketed with fast wifi (say 100mbps effective bandwidth). In the past, I "upgraded" consumer-grade wifi routers with DD-WRT and sprinkled 3 around the house, all hardwired. 1 was a full router (connected to ISP) and the other 2 were set to be Access Points only. Theoretically, that should have worked well. Sort of... What happened is that if I walked in the front door, my phone would pick up the AP near the front of the house. But as I walked towards the back of the house and up or down a floor, the phone would tenaciously hang on to that front AP, all the while the signal strength getting lower and lower. I could pass the AP in the middle of the house and the phone wouldn't switch. It could end up with the ridiculous situation where I'd have arrived at the back of the house and one floor, standing 3 feet from the rear AP--and the phone would still be hanging on to the front AP! I did this nearly 10 years ago and realistically, it was fine early on. Phones didn't use much bandwidth and if wifi dropped to like 1 Mbps, no big deal. (But imagine getting "only" 1 or 2 Mbps wifi today!) Fast forward to a few years ago and now phone/tablet usage in the family has grown and further, the apps and bandwidth needed have skyrocketed. So I upgraded my wifi to a Ubiquiti something or other, I forget what exactly, a white UFO with a blue ring of light. It had 802.11ac and claimed a much greater range than the 802.11b/g/n consumer devices I had used earlier. It worked fairly well. I put it in a central location in the house and things were good. A single device meant there was no need to switch between APs. 802.11ac meant good bandwidth too when in decent range. However, 2020 arrives, Covid comes on the scene, and now a family member is working from home downstairs at the far end of the house. While the Ubiquiti wifi is reachable there, it's no longer great. [Computer down there is hardwired so has no problem, but the user's cellphone is on wifi and the wifi is no longer strong and now Skype/Zoom, etc. on the phone is an expectation...] So I am now investigating a solution that can let a phone roam around a long house seamlessly, able to magically switch from AP to AP to get a great signal always. Is Mesh the answer? "Wifi 6"??? A local retailer has a D-Link DIR-LX1870 router plus a DAP-1950 / DAP-1955 extender that together suggest they could supply a "smart mesh wifi 6" solution. Mesh is not getting a lot of love in this sub. The marketing info sounds very seductive. Intelligent handoffs to get max bandwidth wherever you are. Very high speeds. Is there another, better solution? Thanks for any device recommendations. Budget is medium (I don't have to go too cheap), but I'd rather it not involve business-levels of gear. The D-Link stuff would be a few hundred dollars and that's ok. But if it were anywhere near a thousand dollars, that'd be too expensive. Edit: I'm looking also for reliability of signal. e.g. I'm comfortable if the wifi solution gets me around 30mbps everywhere so long as it's consistent. Incoming is 150/150. What wouldn't be good is a solution that gets me as fast as 50, but can sink down to 5 unexpectedly. I know wifi won't give you super reliability in general. But remember there can be hardwired ethernet to most places in the house. So I can plant an AP anywhere, e.g. right where the teleworker is sitting. I hoping an AP 5 feet away from the user would give great and consistent bandwith. [link] [comments]  |
| Issues aroung my 2.4 ghz connection Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:11 PM PST My new windows 10 pc can only now connect to mg 5ghz wifi butn ot my 2.4ghz. other laptops i have and devices can connect to the 2.4 no problem. It was able to connect and im not sure why now its not. it shows that its an active connection but when trying to connect, says no internet, secured. any tips would be very welcomed! [link] [comments]  |
| Ways to extend wifi in an old apartment Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:10 PM PST Newbie here. I'm very new to all of this and have looked at a lot of older post but can't seem to figure out what's best for our apartment. The wife and I live in a really old two story apartment where the router is downstairs but our office is upstairs on the opposite end of the apartment. We get almost no wifi in there and I've been researching how to extend it to our office room. I was originally going to just buy a wifi extender off of Amazon, but almost every post I've looked at has recommended creating an access point. The only problem is no one goes on to explain what it is or what I need to do to install it. I'm pretty resourceful and can learn how to set it up but it's the installation I'm concerned about. So I guess my question is: can anyone explain to me what an access point is, how is it installed and what are your experiences installing one? Would it be worth investing in? [link] [comments]  |
| Any suggestions for a Temporary WiFi setup in a Rental Home? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:08 PM PST I'm renting a home for 4 months that has no internet. I'm hoping I can get some potential solutions for a WiFi setup for working from home, Zoom calls and internet surfing that doesn't lock me into a contract. It will be in southern California in a busy suburban area. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Inconsistent VLAN Tagging with Cable Modem Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:06 PM PST I've recently upgraded my home network. I replaced my consumer gateway with a proper managed switch and OPNsense (VM) installation. I've been having some frustration with my internet, however. I want my Cable modem (Arris SB6190) and OPNsense WAN interface to be on VLAN 90. Seems easy enough, but I'm seeing some inconsistent behavior. In order to work, OPNsense needs to receive a DHCP address from the modem. For some reason, the modem will not answer DHCP discovers unless I have the switch port set to Tagged on VLAN 90. Once DHCP has been assigned, though, it will not pass traffic unless I switch it to untagged. I have done some wireshark captures to confirm this behavior. This means that in order to reboot my network gear, I have to do some awkward tagging/untagging dance to get internet connectivity back up. I don't understand what's happening here, does anyone have any ideas? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:04 PM PST I need advice. I live in the Philippines where I can't just return stuff because they didn't suit my needs so I need to be confident that a product will work before I purchase it. I live in a three-story house. The main mesh connected to the modem is on the third floor. I currently have an ethernet cable from the third floor to the ground floor connected to an entirely different wifi router. That router is servicing several devices via ethernet cable. Since mesh units usually only have 2 ethernet port and I need more, would it be possible to wire another slave mesh unit to the main mesh on the third floor and then use a switch with the other port for the other devices? [link] [comments]  |
| House is prewired cat5e, messy junction box, I think I need a patch panel? Posted: 10 Jan 2021 08:03 PM PST So long story short att is coming to set up fiber for me next week, it's their second visit. The first time the tech was here, he confirmed I have cat5e to every room but will have to be re terminated to rj45 plugs. He also said he could "backfeed the fiber to everyroom". It appears this is my junction box: Messy I have coaxial coming in, as well as 6 cat5e cables that are unterminated, a green ground? wire and a small gauge white wire which I'm thinking might be some sort of power. I'm trying to determine if I need to have some parts available before the tech gets here but I have a few questions, I'd appreciate any help.
Thank you in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| tp-link tx 3000 random speed drops Posted: 11 Jan 2021 01:52 PM PST I have a wifi 6 router with a 500 mbps down/up connection. With the tp-link card, I get 350 down, and around 500 up on a god day, but it randomly drops to 5-15 mbps down. All my other devices can hold 200 + mbps at all times, including when the tp-link drops speed. Whats wrong with the tp-link card? edit: I meant AX3000 not TX [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:30 PM PST So yeah, long story short I'm meeting now this girl and it all started with me offering her help with setting up the internet in her dorm. I try to do it (and fail every time) for 2 meetings and the talking with her is great but I really should finally be able to fix it. The router is asus rt-n12e, the situation is, that the internet is "in the wall" so there is ethernet contact on the wall. From the dormitory guideliness I understand that I connect ethernet cable between this contact and into WAN port on the asus router. Except for that the second connection is of course power supply. Now - I learned that I am supposed to "enable WAN" port so that the internet works. I checked many youtube videos, it seems so easy to be done. I dunno if I can share links to them here. Anyways the problem is that after putting 192.168.1.1 into browser I cannot find the option to "enable WAN". Or of course, I just lack knowledge how to enable it/make it work other way. The operation modes I can choose is IP Sharing and AP (if I remember correctly...). In the WAN tab, there seem not to be such option. Somewhere online asus shared a dummy of this configuration page... I will try to find it. My wild guess is that the version of firmware is too old and thus there is no such option? Firmware version is 2.0.0.39 . Just on every youtube video I'm checking, the configuration site of modem looks very different, more modern, from what I'm seeing. After all, I just really know so little about it, that I need Your support! Sorry for the long post and thank you so so much for any word of advice, I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:27 PM PST I need to run an ethernet cable through my attic floor (aka my office) and into the closet directly below. I dont know anything about running/fishing cables. My house was built in the 1930's and has lath and plaster walls. The attic is finished and insulated. The attic floor is vinyl plank and there is no light in the closet below. My main concern is 1) making sure I drill into the closet ceiling and don't miss the closet and 2) making sure I don't hit any wires or pipes that may be under the floor. What's the easiest way I can do this and what do I need to do it? I have a ton of power tools (I can do light carpentry stuff but not run and fish wires) I imagine I'll need a long drill bit (maybe 1/2"??) [link] [comments]  |
| You are subscribed to email updates from HomeNetworking, community based networking help. To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
| Google, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043, United States | |
No comments:
Post a Comment