Home Networking Patch cables |
- Patch cables
- Mesh or AP for hardwired wireless points
- Question about my wifi and my router settings I could change?
- What wire to use?
- TP-Link Incredibly Poor Customer Service and Quality
- New Home, New Network, Not working
- Cheap Server Solution
- Should i stick an extension cord on my powerline adapter
- Super simple question about coax cable.
- Which router to upgrade from r7000?
- Using projector outside - is mesh my only option to get the WiFi to reach?
- Help Converting Phone Line to Ethernet
- TP-Link CPE210 Point to Point connects to network but clients can't get an IP
- Existing cat5e cabling, how do i find out if it is CCA or solid Copper?
- Line tester mirroring signal on multiple cables
- CAT6E vs 6A
- Ethernet won't work after plugging in wifi dongle?
- MoCA + Xfi X6 Gateway Setup Help
- I live on the 5th floor of a condo and want to get wifi to the garage...
- Router + Modem product advice
- Latency that onlyappears in MMOs
- Improving roaming between APs
- Router Recommendation for Range and Gaming
- Guest House Wireless Bridge Network | Help Needed
- Hotel with captive portal and wifi repeater, only one device able to get internet access at the same time.
| Posted: 29 Aug 2020 03:57 PM PDT For those of you looking for short, flexible, discreet patch cables... I'd highly recommend monoproce slim run. I work for a managed service provider for networking and systems support for medium sized businesses. We have started using them on new projects and when we clean up a network closet or server room. I am in no way sponsored by monoprice or otherwise benefit from posting this. The bad cable rate is quite low (less than 1%) and they handle poe just fine. In fact, we have used them in short distances (<6 foot patch) for 10 gig ethernet with no issues. [link] [comments]  |
| Mesh or AP for hardwired wireless points Posted: 29 Aug 2020 05:06 AM PDT Im having an electrician run cat6 to a bunch of rooms while hes doing other work and didnt know what I should buy if I can hardwire the wireless points. I want a system where im not constantly changing my wifi connection when i move to another room, i just want my phone/tablet or whatever to switch to the faster/closer access point. Should i get a mesh system or is that not worth it if I can hardwire like I am? Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Question about my wifi and my router settings I could change? Posted: 29 Aug 2020 03:57 PM PDT So I bought a Netgear tri-band Wi-Fi extender because I've been having really bad connection on my Xbox lately I have Frontier wireless and my wireless strength used to be 66% for me now it's a hundred percent with the Wi-Fi extender my PC obviously is wired. I want to get better ping and better connection on my Xbox one I do know how to get into my Frontier router and was told I can change Wi-Fi channels to better my connection how exactly what I do that and if there's a better method to change on my router for my wireless what would that be [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Aug 2020 04:33 PM PDT I recently installed a couple of runs of cat6 for ethernet. I am getting slower speeds than over Wi-Fi to my TV's. My wired computer is a lot faster than Wi-fi I speeds. (I used very nice cable for the computer run, that I cant access any more). I believe my problem with my TV runs is the cable/connectors . Does anyone have links to what cable/connectors they are getting Gig speeds on? [link] [comments]  |
| TP-Link Incredibly Poor Customer Service and Quality Posted: 29 Aug 2020 10:35 AM PDT I just bought a TP-Link AX1800 which completely stopped working after less than a week. It took me most of a day, multiple phone calls and multiple emails to get a replacement authorized. It's now been a week and TP-Link has yet to start shipment of the refurbished unit that I have to pay $14.99 for. (That's a shipment method that's supposed to take a week. I could have paid for for faster shipping.) So the best that they'll do is to replace the unit in 2 weeks. This is worse than a bad out of the box unit since presumably the retailer would have replaced that with another new one in something less than 2 weeks.
That what I got for buying TP-Link ... never again. [link] [comments]  |
| New Home, New Network, Not working Posted: 29 Aug 2020 05:24 PM PDT Images here: https://imgur.com/a/6oxri7E I have just moved into a new home. It has several cat5e ports throughout the house which run to a tech panel in a closet. I have my cable modem feeding internet to my Netgear RS400 Router. I have connected that router to a TPLink switch, and I have connected each port of the switch to each end of the ethernet ports, as you can see in the photos. The ports still don't work. I have verified that each ethernet cable is working. I have verified that the switch works. The router works. I have tested each item individually with my PC. But the ethernet ports (I have tested each) still don't work. What gives? Edit: To clarify the photos, I have *two* yellow ethernet cords. One connecting the modem to my router's WAN port, and another connected from the panel to my switch. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Aug 2020 12:44 PM PDT I need a server for running Plex, Pihole, Minecraft, and maybe more. What would be the cheapest way to get a computer capable of doing this? [link] [comments]  |
| Should i stick an extension cord on my powerline adapter Posted: 29 Aug 2020 07:45 PM PDT Im thinking of buying a powerline adapter but there is only one wall plag near my desk, is it safe to plug the extension cord directly into the powerline adapter Wall Socket<Powerline<extention cord [link] [comments]  |
| Super simple question about coax cable. Posted: 29 Aug 2020 05:17 PM PDT My parents switched from AT&T to xfinity. Xfinity sent them a DIY package to connect the gateway. They asked me to do it but it came with a coax cable and I never dealt with a coax cable for internet. AT&T didn't need a coax cable. I thought it would've been an easy switch. There is a coax cable outlet on an adjacent wall but I'm guessing that was for a television from the people who lived there before. I can't just plug in the coax cable there right? Does it need to be a specific one for the internet? [link] [comments]  |
| Which router to upgrade from r7000? Posted: 29 Aug 2020 02:22 PM PDT Hi all - currently have the r7000 router from Netgear. It works well, don't get me wrong. However even with a range extender I am not getting desirable speeds on the other side of my home. We have 2 computers that we game on, 3 smart TVs that we stream on constantly, cell phones, iPads, wireless cameras as well as ring door bells. I have been toying with either the asus rt-ax88u or the gt-ac5300.. I'm open to suggestions. I am adding more cameras and more internet used items/devices as well. Thanks all, Have a great day! [link] [comments]  |
| Using projector outside - is mesh my only option to get the WiFi to reach? Posted: 29 Aug 2020 07:19 PM PDT During football season my neighborhood gathers outside my house and we watch the games on the deck with a projector and large screen. The issue is that I use a chromecast to watch the games through the projector and the WiFi is spotty at best. I need a way to get the WiFi to reach further into my outside area than what the current range is. Any suggestions? I'm a complete novice so anything complicated likely won't work. [link] [comments]  |
| Help Converting Phone Line to Ethernet Posted: 29 Aug 2020 04:55 PM PDT Hi guys, So I recently discovered that my house seems to be already wired for Ethernet and I'm hoping someone here can help me figure out what I need to do to get it working! The telephone ports in the walls of my house already have all the necessary colors of cables for Ethernet it seems (blue, and blue white, green and green white, brown and brown white, orange and orange white), they were just not plugged in in most cases (only the blue and blue white ones were hooked into the wall connectors for some reason). So I have converted a few of them now into Ethernet ports with all the cables, and I am trying to figure out what I need to do now in order to get them to actually supply internet throughout the house. I have looked all over my house in closets and even in the attic, and cannot seem to find any central telephone box where all the wires come together. The only boxes I have found are actually outside and here are the pictures: https://imgur.com/a/jOKiBMv. As you can see, there seems to be all the cables for Ethernet right there, but they are just not hooked up to anything. I thought that I might be able to plug an Ethernet cable from my router into the wall port, and it might provide internet to all the other ports... but from what I've read it seems that for that to work they would all need to be connected to a switch in the telephone box... which of course I can't locate (unless that outside box is truly the only one). Anyone know what I need to do to get my Ethernet working? I'm hoping I don't have to rewire the whole house, as it seems like the necessary cables are already there. Thank you so much! [link] [comments]  |
| TP-Link CPE210 Point to Point connects to network but clients can't get an IP Posted: 29 Aug 2020 06:53 PM PDT I'm using two CPE210s to connect two metal buildings about 150ft apart at a small business. I have building A CPE set to client mode and building B CPE set to AP for clients on that side. CPE B is connected to a switch. From that switch I HAD about 170 ft of cat6 going to another building where I have an EAP225 access point. Everything was working fine with the two CPEs, but I couldn't setup the EAP because I couldn't connect to it's wifi network. The max cable length in their docs was 60 meters for cat5/6, so I took the EAP and used a 6 ft cable to set it up which worked fine. Then I moved the switch halfway between the EAP and CPE B to shorten the cable length. Now there's about 120 ft of cable from CPE B to the switch and about 100 ft of cable from the switch to the EAP. Now after doing that no matter which CPE or EAP I connect to I can't get an IP address. I can login to both CPEs and the EAP from a PC in building A connected to the main LAN (though it takes several seconds to bring up the login page) so I know they're working, but they don't seem to be passing DHCP through or something. The DHCP option is disabled by default on both of them, I'm assuming that's only for them to be a DHCP server, instead of a router. I do have the CPEs and the EAP set to the same SSID, but it's a different SSID than the main LAN in building A. The main purpose for this setup is to use Ring floodlight cams all around the buildings, but so far I can't even get this simple setup to work. I have a feeling the cables are still too long, but I would think about 40 meters of cable should work no problem, and that definitely isn't the problem with CPE A, which only has about 50ft of cable to the router. I've ran much longer cat5/6 cable before without a problem for networking, but I don't know about passive POE on these TP-Link devices. I'm going back to debug again in the next couple days, so I'd appreciate any help on what to check. [link] [comments]  |
| Existing cat5e cabling, how do i find out if it is CCA or solid Copper? Posted: 29 Aug 2020 10:47 AM PDT Hi All, currently have cat5e cabling pre run through the house by the builder that I recently found out of all the way to the basement. How would I find out if it is CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) or Solid Copper? Would the outer jacket of the cable indicate? Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Line tester mirroring signal on multiple cables Posted: 29 Aug 2020 02:29 PM PDT I was cleaning up my networking cables last night by isolating, testing and labelling each cable to replace my previous mess of cables leading to who knows where. All my Ethernet cables terminate in a linen closet where I have my patch panel. After unplugging everything connected to the patch panel within the closet, I put the line tester slave unit at a different location throughout the house, one at a time, to figure out which corresponding cable in the closet linked up. One thing I observed and couldn't explain: I previously assumed that as soon as I got blinking lights on the line tester I could safely assume that whatever port I plugged into led to where I plugged in the slave. But I found that I got the same "positive" signal on multiple cables. It wasn't until I went to all the locations throughout the house that had switches plugged in to the receiving ports and unplugged those cables that I was able to get the master to blink on one and only one port. The cable ends that terminate in the closet would not have been linked in any obvious way to each other. Any idea what could have caused the test signal to "jump" across nodes like that? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Aug 2020 02:00 PM PDT Hey folks, I'm in the process of building a new house. I gave the builder very clear specs to pull CAT6A cable and his electricians went and pulled CAT6E (which from what I can tell is not an actual spec, so I'm going to assume it isn't guaranteed to perform any better than CAT6). The longest run in the house is about 100-120 feet, which looks to mean that CAT6/6E can support 10GigE (from a future proofing perspective). Given this - is it worth making the electricians re-pull about 30 drops across the house? If I'm not going to see meaningful benefit I don't want to make the redo the work. I know that presently I won't see any real benefit, but in 5 years I don't want to be regret it. Given the length of the runs look to meet the spec for 10GigE on CAT6 should I just let them leave the work as done? [link] [comments]  |
| Ethernet won't work after plugging in wifi dongle? Posted: 29 Aug 2020 08:11 PM PDT Hello all, I've been using a wired Ethernet connection on my PC with no issues. Recently, I plugged in a USB wifi dongle to try Wi-Fi and it works just fine. However, I notice my wired connection will not work anymore. Even if I unplug the dongle, it doesn't work. It says Ethernet is connected, but I have no access. It shows ipv6 connects, but ipv4 does only for a second and then says no access, if that's of relevance. I'm lost on what's going on here. I dual boot Windows 10 and Ubuntu, and it works fine on Ubuntu, but not Windows. It seems like it confused something on Windows, for a lack of a better way to put it, but I don't know what or how to fix it. Any help would be very appreciated! Let me know if there's any extra info needed. [link] [comments]  |
| MoCA + Xfi X6 Gateway Setup Help Posted: 29 Aug 2020 02:10 PM PDT I can really use some help on how to get my MoCA setup working. I have Xfinity cable service which the X6 (TG3482G) modem router is in the main living room. I am trying to get another wired connection in our office. I have been working on this for days and still having issues. When the adapter is wired to my computer there is no internet access at all. On the Line In from outside I have a PoE Filter (this one) which connects directly to a 2-way splitter (splitter link to amazon). One path goes directly to the X6 Gateway and the other goes to an Actiontec MoCA Adapter (ECB6200). Within the Comcast gateway MoCA is Enabled. Channel D1a (1175 MHz) and Preferred Network Controller is Yes. Under MoCA Diagnostics it shows:
I have tried rebooting all devices, re-enabling everything, tightening cables, and all lights on the adapter are on. Wifi and wire connections from the gateway are working like normal. I'm at a loss and it is driving me crazy. Any help would be appreciated [link] [comments]  |
| I live on the 5th floor of a condo and want to get wifi to the garage... Posted: 29 Aug 2020 04:11 PM PDT This is a bit of an odd one and I've searched for sometime on how to do this without success... Like the title says, I live on the 5th floor of a condo building (2 units per floor). The garages are on the ground floor, and I have a private garage. My wifi signal does not extend to the garage and I'd like to have internet there to support my "smart" garage door opener (to ensure that my garage door is closed via wifi vs. having to physically check). At first I thought I could use a powerline adapter to connect my garage to my current network, but it appears it's on a different circuit (my condo building vs. my specific unit). So, the next thought was to drop ethernet cable through the walls from my unit to the garage, but it looks like I'm unable to do that. My final thought was to use a WiFi-based powerline adapter to capture my wifi signal and then powerline that through my condo building's electrical to another powerline adapter in my garage... but I haven't yet been able to find a powerline adapter that can connect to a network through WiFi vs. ethernet. Any other ideas for how to support this? I don't need a high quality connection or super low latency, just enough for the purposes described in the thread. Losing what little is left of my hair trying to sort this out... [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Aug 2020 09:57 AM PDT Hello! My old Arris Surfboard is dropping connection like crazy, and is pretty much out of date. Looking to upgrade. Was wondering if this modem (Motorola MB7621) and this router (TP-Link AC1750 Archer A7) make a good combo? They're definitely in my budget so A+ on that. I'm with Comcast at the 300Mbps speed. [link] [comments]  |
| Latency that onlyappears in MMOs Posted: 29 Aug 2020 01:39 PM PDT I've discovered a weird issue lately. Since I've moved to Verizon and changed my networking set up, there's a latency that only appears if playing a mmo, streaming in 4k, no issues, other types of online gaming, no issues. When I moved to Verizon they cut an old ethernet cable that disappeared into.the wall and it now connects from the Verizon box to the router (tp link archer 10). From there I ran a 50 foot ethernet cable to a small switch and from there various cables to my TV, pc, ps4 etc. I'm not quite sure where in the chain the latency is coming from, but it consistently builds over time until the game disconnects [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Aug 2020 07:36 PM PDT I'm upgrading my home network connectivity as I'm working from home. I previously just had one Wi-Fi router in the living room but my apartment has super thick reinforced concrete walls so get almost no signal in the study. I've just had the other rooms in my apartment patched with ethernet (the sockets were there but never patched). I've now got an EdgeRouter X in the store room by the fibre modem and switched my Wi-Fi router in the living room (Linksys EA8100) to AP mode. I've also set up an older Wi-Fi router in my study (D-Link DIR-868L) also in AP mode. Essentially decided to go for APs with wired backhaul instead of mesh. This has solved my problems and now get 500Mbps in the study over Wi-Fi and 940Mbps over wired (my fibre internet is 1Gbps). However, my devices do not roam well between the access points. I still have to manually connect to the study, even though the signal to the living room AP is super weak. I move around a lot on VoIP calls so trying to improve this. I was thinking of picking up a couple of the Ubiquiti FlexHD APs so that the hardware is the same on both APs so roaming would improve, but as I understand it's really up to the client device (phone, tablet, laptop, etc.). Also I only have one ethernet socket in the study and so if I get one of those APs I would also need a gigabit switch for a second hardwired connection for my computer. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| Router Recommendation for Range and Gaming Posted: 29 Aug 2020 01:35 PM PDT Hey there, as the title says I'm looking for advise on upgrading my current router. I currently have 75 mbps download with a d-link ac1200. Current wireless devices are: - 3 smart devices - 1 smart TV (I sometimes plug this in when I have wireless issues) - 2 laptops - 2 smart speakers (Google mini's) Current wired devices: - Xbox One X - Hue Bridge I live in a 3 story townhouse with the modem and router on the second floor and at one end of the house. This presents me with connection and download speed issues at the other end of the house. The connection and download speeds are generally okay near the router. The ASUS wireless RT-AX88U AX6000 Dual-Band Wi-Fi 6 router has caught my attention but I feel this may be over kill, which I'm okay with if this will meet my future needs ie. if I decide to go with a faster download speed. Is there a better router for my use case or am I okay going with the RT-AX88U? I appreciate any advice. Thank you! [link] [comments]  |
| Guest House Wireless Bridge Network | Help Needed Posted: 29 Aug 2020 01:34 PM PDT Hey all, I currently rent a guest house where there is no hardwire internet hookups installed. When I moved in a couple years ago the landlords (main house) just had a repeater setup in the guest house that gave the guest house a very weak, but usable, WiFi signal (averaged 6Mbps). My bedroom is on the opposite side of the guest house from the router so in order to use ethernet cables it is a wire mess across the house. So I researched and landed on buying a TP-Link router (gave much stronger signal than the repeater-40-80Mbps) that I made into a wireless bridge network for my house and could have in my room. The Tp-link catches the main house wifi signal and redistributes it as my own network here under a different access point. All that worked fine for the last couple years until now- the tp-link router is failing and continues to drop signal over and over. So now I am back to square one using the weaker repeater that I had at the beginning for now. I have purchased a Linksys MR9000 in hopes to recreate a similar but now stronger bridge network I had before but I cannot get it to connect to the main router wirelessly like the tp-link could. The tp-link has a 'scan for networks' option when setting up the bridge network where the Linksys does not and the Linksys comes back as unable to locate the signal I've told it to search for and connect to. Any advice for a savvy-network-novice? I know that repeating is easier but I would prefer to continue wirelessly bridging as I can continue to have all my devices on my secured network and off theirs. Main house router: Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 My available router: Linksys MR9000 (new- can still return), TP-Link Archer C9 (old-starting to fail often) Anyone else wirelessly bridging that could recommend help or even a different router that could help ease the process? Should I give up and just buy a repeater? Buy another Tp-link? TLDR: Need help wirelessly bridging network from main house (landlord) to guest house (my place). Had it working before but my router is failing. Wireless bridge network router suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Aug 2020 01:30 PM PDT I am currently staying at a hotel for the foreseeable future. The wifi connection inside my room isn't as good as I want and need it so I bought a Wifi repeater, the Fritz Repeater 310. It works, the connection is good and fast. However, I can only connect one device with the wifi now. The hotel wifi has an captive portal, connecting mulitple devices at once wasn't an issue before I got the Repeater. But now it is an issue. When I connect my laptop my ps4 loses it's connection and has to got through the captive portal again, but when I do that, my laptop would have to do the same. Only one device has internet access at the time. Honestly I don't know much about these things. I followed the instructons when setting up the Repeater. I don't have access to the Wifi Router. Is there anything I can change in the settings of the Repeater so that multiple devices have internet access at the same time? [link] [comments]  |
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