Home Networking Dad got duped into letting a hacker in followup |
- Dad got duped into letting a hacker in followup
- Internet cuts once an hour
- Coax to ethernet
- 2nd access point not using same SSID?
- Security advice needed for home network: topology, OpenWRT, VLANs, webservers, etc.
- Users of different brand routers, do you feel a difference?
- Opinions on setup
- Help with Moca setup please
- What *precisely* is the advantage of 2.4Ghz versus 5Ghz?
- Actiontec T3200 Troubleshoot
- [Help Needed] I am looking to get some assistance with home network
- ISP’s DHCP Is not functioning properly with ASUS 68U
- Good Wifi Alternatives
- MoCA - Devices fail to retrive IP address
- 802.11 clueless ��
- ¿ Como recuperar contraseña de Linux MX?
- MOCA Questions
- Help with Synology NAS -> Cisco3560 -> ER-X
- Was trying to get my new home wall plugs to work... What is this?
- Ethernet to all the CatV ports in the house. From what I assume is a cache of switches.
- Router Decision
- Is it time for a new modem/router?
- Cat5 good for gigabit?
- Automatically switch to the Access Point with the faster connection
| Dad got duped into letting a hacker in followup Posted: 25 Apr 2020 05:29 PM PDT I'm making this a separate post from the original because things have changed slightly and I wanted to avoid people responding to older questions that others have answered. We've tried restoring the computer several times now both to factory settings and to retain his files but were ultimately met with a message saying "there was a problem resetting your PC. No changes were made" several minutes into each attempted restore. A message saying it couldn't load "D:\windows\system32\logfiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt" came up once but hasn't reoccurred since. I've tried researching these terms and keywords but have been met with mixed results when trying to input the advice from users in other threads and websites. My dad is considering just scraping the computer because it was old anyways. I was on board with it because it seemed like any problems would primarily just be linked to the desktop based on the advice from my last thread but then my dad let it slip that he took a picture of the command prompt when the scammer was in it. I would post it here but it's something related to the IP address called "netstat" and that seems like the kind of thing not to share. Could he still be lurking somewhere on the network? What are your recommended courses of action? We'd be fine throwing out the computer but now I'm not sure if the scammer is doing something on our network. Just to reiterate what I said my dad and I tried from the other thread, he immediately uninstalled the remote access program but unfortunately didn't unplug the ethernet cord into the desktop until the next morning. He's run several virus scans but hasn't picked up anything so I'm wondering if the problem is something more insidious. Once again I'm thankful for any advice or help anyone is able to provide [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 11:29 AM PDT So basically once an hour the internet just cuts. It then takes about a minute to reconnect. I've been doing some research, and was learning about DHCP lease time. My internet provider is Optimum, and I can't find the setting to change the lease time anywhere. Anyone know how I could change the DHCP lease time to a longer period, or have any other advice on how to fix this problem? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 08:28 PM PDT Bear with me, because my literacy with networking is marginal. I recently moved into a new place, I'm renting out the basement level in a townhouse. The router is on the main floor above me and currently my only internet access is through wifi, as there are no ethernet cables wired down here. For most things, this is fine, but I would like to establish a wired connection, mostly for gaming. Like I said, there's no ethernet cable down here, and as I'm not the home owner, I can't exactly rewire the place. The location of the router means that I can't run an ethernet cable from the router to my PC. Even if I could manage to string such an absurdly long cable, it would, by necessity, pass through high traffic areas, making a tripping hazard and generally be an eyesore. Which again, not the home owner and not free to make upstairs look like a hazardous mess. There is, however, a coax outlet down here with two sockets, one going to the TV, the other attached to a long cable that goes to nothing. Presumably the last tenant was using it for something. Presumably the same signal, since the router is also just attached to coax. I'm trying to find the cheapest and most efficient way to make wired internet happen via that coax cable. After poking around, it looks like I probably need MoCA adapters, but I'm a little hazy on how this works. People are saying I need two, one between the router and the wall and one between my PC and the wall, and I'm not completely sure why that is. Also I'm not clear on how this is supposed to connect. Is it like this? coax wall connection > coax cable> MoCA 1 > coax cable > router and then coax wall connection > coax cable > MoCa 2 > ethernet cable > PC (and also obviously they need power) Or do I have something wrong or missing? And is there any other methods besides MoCA adapters that would work as well or better? I'm just trying to make sure I understand what I'm doing and how before I shell out the money for the adapters. [link] [comments]  |
| 2nd access point not using same SSID? Posted: 25 Apr 2020 03:36 PM PDT I recently installed a 2nd access point on the other side of my house. I connected it to my router and gave it the same SSID as my other Access point and router. Unfortunately the 2.4Ghz channel did unify with the other SSID despite me giving it the exact same name. The 5Ghz channel did unify though. Anyone have any idea what's up? [link] [comments]  |
| Security advice needed for home network: topology, OpenWRT, VLANs, webservers, etc. Posted: 25 Apr 2020 11:17 AM PDT Please view my suggested home network topology in the image above. I have a Linksys router that will be running OpenWRT and I want to create VLANs for separation of different client devices, for security reasons. I'm a bit of a noob so please bear with me and don't hesitate to correct me if I make wrongful assumptions regarding this stuff.
I appreciate any of your comments or suggestions. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Users of different brand routers, do you feel a difference? Posted: 25 Apr 2020 12:27 PM PDT This might sound stupid, but I am just wondering if different brand routers give different internet usage experience, like is any brand better or worse than the other or do they basically just do the same thing and its only based on spec... the higher spec the router the better? EDIT: I feel like most routers are running the same software at the core but with a different customized UI. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 01:22 PM PDT Hey all. Planning to move into a new place and item number one on my to do list is to run Cat 6a throughout the house to a network rack. The house is 1400 Sq ft on two storeys with an unfinished basement. I anticipate having a 24/7 server running unraid and a number of containers including Plex, along with 4 laptops and 4 mobile devices, and a Synology DS218. No smart home devices but need future expansion for a Hass.io deployment. I was planning on the following for a rack
Any thoughts on equipment choices would be welcome. I know that a lot of folks prefer ubiquiti setups but frankly I am struggling to justify the price for my use case. TIA [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 08:44 PM PDT i am trying to set up moca network. still shaky on my setup. the way the house is wired, the main cable line comes into the garage where there is a kinda of hub of coax cables where the previous owner was splitting to feed all other coax outlets in the house. I am only utilizing three coax outlets ( main tv, two bedroom tvs). my plan was to start with poe filter as main in cable enters the garage. then split three ways via 3 way splitter (moca capable); #1) coax cable running to a second two way splitter to feed the bedroom tvs. #2) coax to main tv coax outlet. #3) coax leading to moca adpater (gocoax moca 2.5) which would feed my ethernet switch/hub via an ethernet cable. the coax cable(#2 from above) would eventually be split by two way splitter #1) going to cable box, #2) would be going to modem/wifi router (xfi gateway 3rd generation, xb7, moca enabled). with ethernet cable running from modem/router to TV. I am assuming the moca feature of my modem router would return the internet data signal back to the original splitter in the garage where the other moca adapter will convert back to ethernet to be sent out the switch to feed the ethernet ports through the house. tell my where i screwed up or is this going to work? thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| What *precisely* is the advantage of 2.4Ghz versus 5Ghz? Posted: 25 Apr 2020 08:38 PM PDT I've got a desktop connected to a dual-band router that's several rooms away. I had been using the 2.4Ghz band because the router is so far away, but the 5Ghz connection is getting much better upload and download speeds (according to a Google speedtest). I assume that upload and download speeds are not telling the whole story, but I'm not sure what else to check. What metrics should I use to determine if the router is too far away for 5Ghz? Put another way, what sorts of problems should I look out for that might suggest I should switch back to 2.4Ghz? Just to head off some simple advice: 1) ethernet isn't an option (lord I wish). 2) Due to covid, I'm trying to make the best of a truly insufficient network that me and my roommates are making multiple changes to every day, so the goal isn't to figure out if my system is working well enough (it isn't), the goal is to distinguish which problems are being caused by my choice of band (as opposed to whatever else has gone wrong today). I can't just use one for a week and see if I'm happy. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 04:50 PM PDT I have DSL through Windstream (only option here unfortunately). I noticed the past few days speed seemed slow and then when I took a look at the modem, I realized it was only connecting on one of the lines (it's bonded pair DSL as far as I know). I do know previously both lines were showing as connected. We had storms recently so this could be a line issue or maybe the modem got zapped. I own it. It is a windstream branded modem but I purchased it on ebay so as not to pay a monthly fee for it and it's been trouble free until now. With all the virus stuff and having an elderly mother living here, I'm hesitant to call to set up a service call unless I've done all I can do myself. I was hoping someone could suggest some way to rule out equipment failure? It would be nice if I had a second modem to try but alas that's not the case. I did go outside to the NID and tried plugging the modem directly into the two ports out there. Each port is wired off one of the two lines. My result was that I got a DSL Line 1 connection on both ports. I'm guessing that means at least to the NID both lines are functional? Is that a fair assumption? If that's correct, I'm assuming that puts the problem past the NID so either inside wiring or the modem itself. And that's where my minimal tech skills end. I'm not sure how to verify the modem itself is functioning on both lines. When I power it on, both DSL Line lights do light up but line 2 never connects. It doesn't even go through the cycle of trying. I'd appreciate any bump in the right direction, letting me know if I've made any incorrect guesses, etc. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| [Help Needed] I am looking to get some assistance with home network Posted: 25 Apr 2020 08:33 PM PDT I have a Nighthawk Pro Gaming AC2600 Dual-Band Mesh Wi-Fi System connected to a switch in which i have my gaming PC, Mac Book Pro Dock and TV connected to it. Would love to add a PI-Hole in the setup to avoid as many ads as i can.. any help is appreciated. $20 to anybody willing to walk me through it and answer my questions through discord. [link] [comments]  |
| ISP’s DHCP Is not functioning properly with ASUS 68U Posted: 25 Apr 2020 08:10 PM PDT Hey there, this is an error plaguing me after getting the new router. The modem works fine and wired connections aork but the wireless connections just dont have any internet with them. When I log into the router settings, I'm met with that error. I've set the MAC to normal, tried a bunch of other things. Any help would be awesome. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 04:18 PM PDT So as of recent we got new wifi, been a little over a month now and the connection and basically everything about it is pretty awful. I was just wondering if there are any good alternatives for home wifi? I've been using the data in my infinite data plan to support the phone itself and my laptop but I personally don't wanna keep using it. I've looked around and I've seen the wifi connection extenders than you can plug around your house but I'm pretty sure the main issue is just the fact that I've now got pretty slow wifi, any suggestions will help! TL;DR I've got awful wifi and it's basically unusable, any good person alternatives? [link] [comments]  |
| MoCA - Devices fail to retrive IP address Posted: 25 Apr 2020 07:51 PM PDT My home MoCA connection works great the few times it works, but the majority of the time my device (PS4) which is connected to the MoCA adapter fails to identify the IP address and cannot connect to the network. I also tried to connect my laptop to this connection and it yields the same result. I have tried to remove as many barriers in the connection as I possibly can but still run into this issue. Any idea why I can't establish a solid connection with devices plugged into my MoCA adapter? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 07:18 PM PDT So, I live out in rural hills and use my phone's hotspot frequently. However, I've never learned what the difference would be if I changed the 802.11 mode. There are 3 options on my phone: b/g, g only, or b/g/n. Could you help me understand what difference these options actually make. If one of them makes a stronger connection would be great here in the boonies. At the same time, if there are risks with using a specific mode, I'd appreciate that info as well. [link] [comments]  |
| ¿ Como recuperar contraseña de Linux MX? Posted: 25 Apr 2020 07:07 PM PDT Ya intentado varias veces pero no recuerdo pues , quisiera ver si hay algún modo de crear otro usuario o resetearla pero no volver a instalar [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 07:05 PM PDT Have been using power line adapter for my main PC for a couple years and getting 14 MB /s downloads is starting to wear on me (we pay for 100). I was looking into MOCA adapters and have a few questions. 1) Do I need 2 adapters if my modem is already getting internet from a coax connection? I assume the coax cables in my house are on the same wiring so they should all be able to get internet. Does that mean I only need one adapter? The modem is spectrum base ARIS modem and the router is Sagemcom fast 5280. 2) If I do need two adapters, my modem is using the only coax outlet next to it. Can I use the one coax outet for the adapter and incoming internet into the modem? [link] [comments]  |
| Help with Synology NAS -> Cisco3560 -> ER-X Posted: 25 Apr 2020 07:00 PM PDT Hi, not sure where to turn for help. I had posted on r/synology but they suggest asking elsewhere as it's not a NAS issue. I have a DS1019+ which worked no problem with my apple router, piece of cake. I've now got: Internet -> Edgerouter-X -> Cisco3560 -> NAS Just set up the ER-X and Cisco, once it appeared to be working, plugged in the NAS. Locally it works no problem. Edgerouter is set at 10.0.1.254/24 DNS set to 9.9.9.9 All other devices connected to the Cisco have internet access no problem. NAS is connected to the Cisco but complains in the "External Access" section about "Network error occurred, please check your DNS or network settings". It's IP is static 10.0.1.201/24 I had to manually set the DNS server to 10.0.1.254, not sure why it isn't getting this automatically from the Cisco like every other device does? I'm regretting this Edgerouter, enormous pain in the ass to set up, and tempted to just pop the Apple router back in. Any help would be appreciated, as I'm right at the edge (pun intended) of my ability. Interestingly my Philips Hue hub is working no problem both on LAN and remotely. I had also asked for assistance on Ubiquiti forums, I answered some further questions there: https://community.ui.com/questions/Synology-and-DNS-woes/f215e6aa-6932-45f6-8ddb-3ea5ad768786 [link] [comments]  |
| Was trying to get my new home wall plugs to work... What is this? Posted: 25 Apr 2020 06:59 PM PDT I just set up my new internet service, router and everything. I was going to make the wall ethernet plugs around the house work normally, but I came accross THIS I don't know what this is nor why all the ethernet cables were cut and set up like that. How do I fix this/set this up? Am i screwed? I only have a switch, the modem, router, and some cables at hand, please help :-( I'm trying to make it so all wall ethernet plugs work normally [link] [comments]  |
| Ethernet to all the CatV ports in the house. From what I assume is a cache of switches. Posted: 25 Apr 2020 06:47 PM PDT This is the locker of what I assume is Ethernet switches The house is wired for Cat 5 in almost every room. I got the router/modem setup in this closet. Then I connected a pc to one of the houses Ethernet ports, and watched the network icon. I took a Cat 5 (one end in the router modem) and systematically plugged it in to each port in this bank, starting with the yellow "Cat5 Host" [pictured]. None made the pc's network icon change. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 02:58 PM PDT I posted yesterday asking about some good routers for gigabit internet. As I've continued to do research, I've seen a lot of people suggesting this router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ I'm wondering why the first one is being suggested over this one which is newer and cheaper but seems like it offers the same features. www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Gigabit-Smart-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=dp_ob_title_ce? Keep in mind, I'm new to all of this tech stuff, so if I'm way off or am making an idiot of myself, be patient. Thanks for your help guys! [link] [comments]  |
| Is it time for a new modem/router? Posted: 25 Apr 2020 11:08 AM PDT So lately my home internet has been very unreliable. The signal will drop at random points during the day and will do so for random periods of time. The model is the Nighthawk AC1900 WiFi Cable Modem Router C6900. We've had this model for at least three years and it has served us well. We get our internet from Spectrum and have had two technicians come within two weeks to see what the problem is. The first technician says that everything is fine and that we may be experiencing issues due to the increased number of users in our area due to the ongoing pandemic. He checked our speeds and says we are getting what we are paying for. I double-check the speeds and everything is as it should be. I'm not exactly sure what he did afterwards, but the internet was fine for about two weeks after he leaves. Two weeks pass and we are experiencing the same issues. I call Spectrum and they send out another technician. He tells me almost the exact same thing as the first technician after checking the speeds and running some tests. I explain to him that we've had this router for at least three years and he tells me that it might be time to get a new modem/router. He cannot do anything to see if our modem/router is causing the issue because it is not owned by Spectrum. This is where my question comes in. Is it time for a new modem/router? Is there any way to check to see if the equipment is the problem or do I just get new equipment based off assumptions? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 25 Apr 2020 12:33 PM PDT So I already have ethernet cables routed in my house (cat5 ones) and its been like that for quite a long time. However, I'm switching to gigabit soon and I read online that the cat5 specifications aren't enough for gigabit. I just wanted to ask that will cat5 be good enough for gigabit or should I order cat 6 cables or some other cat cable for futureproofing? I just wanted to get another opinion before I buy a bunch of cables right now. [link] [comments]  |
| Automatically switch to the Access Point with the faster connection Posted: 25 Apr 2020 12:25 PM PDT Hi. Please forgive me if I get some terminology wrong - I hope that you can work out what I'm trying to say nonetheless I have a wireless router (Virgin Media Hub 3) that offers great connection in all but one room of the house - my bedroom. When I enter my bedroom the connection becomes very flakey and bounces between 1 and 0 bars - it then gives up and my phone reverts to 4G internet over my mobile providers network To resolve this I have a Wifi Range Extender (Netgear WN3000RP). The wifi extender shares the same SSID and Password as my router, so my phone sees it and the wireless router as one network, despite being two individual access points... On the face of it, this appears to work! When I enter my bedroom the signal very briefly dips out, then instantly reconnects via the range extender and I get full connection bars! Great!.... But... Whilst I get 150MB/s download speed via the router, I only get around 20MB/s when connected via the range extender. I can live with this in my bedroom... The problem is, when I leave my bedroom and use the rest of the house again, my phone remains connected via the range extender, despite the much faster, stronger network being available via the routers access point. To switch back to the router I have to momentarily switch off wifi on my phone, then switch it back on. Upon doing this, my phone searches once again for the best network, and connects via the routers access point again (I know it's switching between the range extender and the router by running speed tests - when connected to the router I get 150MB/s, and when connected to the range extender I get 20MB/s - also, when connected via the range extender I noticed a light on the front of the range extender lights up which goes out as soon as I toggle the wifi on my phone and the phone reconnects to the network via the router) Obviously toggling my wifi everytime I leave the bedroom is a painful workaround and not at all ideal. I guess what I want to know is - is it possible to set my phone up so that it automatically switches to the best available access point? Thanks [link] [comments]  |
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