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    Thursday, August 15, 2019

    Laptops What is this screw on my hP pavillion and how do i remove it?

    Laptops What is this screw on my hP pavillion and how do i remove it?


    What is this screw on my hP pavillion and how do i remove it?

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 03:27 AM PDT

    My HP probook. I didn't drop or hit the screen

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 06:24 AM PDT

    What are your recommended laptops? Money is not an object in this scenario.

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 11:34 AM PDT

    The reason being is that I'd really love to get a laptop, but I want to avoid the many troubles that sometimes comes with them. An issue I've always had is ventilation, I'd appreciate recommendations that still thrive through long time strenuous use on a common basis and will last me for years.

    submitted by /u/ones0nicpotato
    [link] [comments]

    Gaming on Non-Gaming Laptops - A quick quide

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 11:24 AM PDT

    Gaming on Non-Gaming Laptops - A quick quide

    A while back, I wrote a review on the Dell XPS 15 9570 where I explain how I struggled a lot to get it to run games smoothly. And since, I kept fiddling with my setup every now and then to get rid of all stuttering in games.

    In this post I recap some tweaks that you can do on any thin-and-light type of laptop that has some good specs on paper but can't quite cool its CPU and GPU fast enough. If your laptop runs games OK for a few seconds at a time, then suddenly start to stutter for a few seconds right when you need those crucial FPS the most, the you've come to the right place!

    These steps aim mainly to eliminate throttling by capping performance (CPU and GPU clock frequencies) or dropping voltage, and improving cooling. The aim is to find a configuration that keeps your system running at below 75 degrees (or whatever temperature your GPU and CPU start to throttle at). There's also a power limit that can cause throttling, so we need to cap the power consumption of your system to below that limit.

    Before you start, if your game is always running low frame rates even after setting the graphics to low, then the fixes I suggest will most likely not work for you, your PC probably does not have enough performance for that game. These fixes are mainly for games that do hit the desired FPS but stutter or experience FPS drops repeatedly.

    Limit your FPS

    Avoiding throttling is all about reducing unnecessary power consumption. Not limiting your FPS to whatever you desire (generally 60 FPS) means that you are asking your hardware to render as many frames as it is capable of, so you are technically pushing it to the limit, which on most laptops is just too much power for the cooling system. The end result is stuttering even when your hardware can achieve twice the desired frame rate.

    My XPS 15 could run CS:GO at above 120 FPS, but would still stutter if I didn't limit FPS to 60. Why generate more frames than your display can render?

    Repaste your Heatsink

    This is quite a drastic measure for most people, most of us don't wanna risk damaging our laptop, but the reason I'm mentioning it so soon is because it is best to do it before the other steps since you may need to underclock less if you have better cooling. If you are not confident about doing this, then watch a few tutorials online. If it still sounds too scary after that, then you can skip this step.

    Most laptops do not come with high performance thermal paste applied right from the factory, and often too much paste is applied which creates a thicker-than-necessary layer of paste between the sink and the chips reducing heat conduction. Repasting with a good thermal paste, and the correct amount can make your computer run a few degrees lower, and therefore allow you to set your performance caps a bit higher when you attempt the next tweaks.

    Disable Turbo Boost

    This is something that many people will not be willing to do because it seemingly drop you max CPU clock in half, but on many laptops turbo boost is almost always followed by thermal throttling because it increases power dissipation by roughly 50W (nearly doubling it, and sometimes even more) which is quite a lot for the tiny cooling system on most laptops.

    If your game cannot run smoothly without turbo boost, then unfortunately there is no way to get rid of FPS drops, disabling turbo boost will make it run slower, and keeping it active will likely keep the throttling there due to the massive increase in power consumption during turbo boosts. You simply need to switch to a different game or change PCs.

    The reason I'm mentioning this first is because it's better to do this before you attempt to undervolt your CPU, since running at a lower frequency means your CPU can support lower voltages before glitching out.

    It is fairly easy to disable turbo boost, simply look for the setting in you BIOS setup screen and turn it off.

    Undervolt the CPU

    With Turbo Boost disabled, you can attempt to find the minimum stable voltage for your CPU.

    Depending on your setup different tools can be use to undervolt the CPU, Intel XTU and ThrottleStop are common options. There are plenty of tutorial online for Intel and AMD CPUs. What you need to do, is to gradually drop the CPU voltage or voltage offset and test it out (by running a game for example or a benchmark) until you computer freezes or blue-screens. Remember the voltage that caused it to crash and increase it by 10 or 20 mV to leave a safety margin. Yes, you won't know the limit until you crash your PC and have to restart it, so make sure you don't make the setting permanent before you test it.

    You'll most likely be able to get a 100 mV drop on your CPU. Mine only started to glitch out at -150 mV.

    If your game does not require a lot of CPU power (CPU usage is low wile running the game), you may also want to consider limiting the maximum frequency of the CPU to further reduce power consumption and avoid throttling.

    Undervolt and Underclock the GPU

    Undervolting the GPU is a bit more tricky since on non-gaming laptops, GPU voltage is locked. However, on many laptop it is possible to either underclock the GPU or alter the voltage-frequency curve to emulate the action of undervolting the GPU.

    For Nvidia GPUs you can download MSI Afterburner which allows you to tweak the voltage-frequency curve. I will describe the process in MSI Afterburner but the logic should remain the same for any tool that manipulates the voltage-frequency curve. Again, the simple route is simply underclocking which is as simple as dragging a slider to the left. As long as your game is able to sustain 60FPS (our whatever your target is) you can keep dropping the clock frequency on you GPU.

    While MSI Afterburner does monitor GPU and CPU censors, I find GPUz more conient for monitoring. Either way, running a monitoring program while testing your game should tell you when to stop and what's causing the throttling if any.

    What a voltage-frequency curve does, is it tells you GPU what voltage to use at every frequency. It's either that or the other way around, i.e what frequency to use for every voltage. But the end result is the same, at least for the tweak I am suggesting. The way MSI Afterburner plots the graph, you are actually setting the frequency for every voltage and not directly tweaking the voltage.

    So if you can only change the frequency, how do you undervolt?

    The most obvious way to undervolt is to shift your voltage curve to the left.

    Default Frequency Curve on a GeForce 1050 Max Q (hit Ctrl+F to open the graph in Afterburner)

    By shifting the curve to the left, you are technically using a lower voltage for the same frequency, since the curve is ascending. MIS Afterburner actually levels out your curve if you made it descending. So as voltage increases frequency can either increase or stay the same.

    It is also important to note that your GPU will not increase voltage once frequency ceases to climb. Even in the default curve above, the last few points after 1100 mV all have the same frequency (1759 MHz), so the GPU will not use a higher voltage than that.

    This why most tutorials suggest that you raise the lower end of the graph so that you hit maximum frequency (or high enough frequency) at lower voltages.

    However, what I suggest is a bit more radical. Your curve should be perfectly flat, and capped at a frequency lower that the default maximum, because in all likelihood, your laptop needs a serious power reduction to never have to throttle during a game (that was the case for my laptop at least)

    To simplify things we'll look at the curve as consisting of two parts, the ramp-up part, and the "plateau" of flat part. The most crucial part of that curve is the point where the plateau starts, it determines you maximum operating voltage and frequency.

    You should set that point first: you decide how far you want to underclock and undervolt you GPU and note down the values. If your game is already using up 80% or more of your GPU, than you cannot underclock, because GPU usage will only increase if you underclock, and it should be well below 100 to avoid FPS drops. In that case undervolting is your only option, but the gains in terms of heat reduction from undervolting are just too low for most laptops.

    Let's say you want underclock the GPU by 400 MHz (anything equal or lower than the original maximum you see at the end of the default curve) and run it at 50 mV lower than normal: (mine glitched out at -100 mV). 50 mV may not sound like too much, but when you're underclocking, you're already using lower voltages (if done correctly).

    1. Set your initial target: e.g -400MHz and -50mV
    2. Determine the actual frequency and voltage values values: (the numeric values here are from the example graph above, yours will be different)

    Take the maximum frequency on the default curve minus the underclock amount: 1759 - 400 = 1359 Mhz

    Find the first voltage value on the default curve that gives you the maximum clock value you've selected (or something close enough). In our example the closest point is 1366MHz @ 825mV so we'll use those as our reference for the remainder of the exercise.

    If we are to undervolt by 50 mV, then we'll need to subtract 50 mV from the reference voltage 825 - 50 = 775 mV

    So we need to use those values (1366Mhz @ 775 mV) as the point on the graph where it becomes flat, i.e the separation point between the ramp-up and the plateau.

    3) Starting to the left side of the graph, set the frequency of every point to whatever the frequency is 50mV ahead (50 mV being your undervolt value) i.e you're shifting the default curve left by 50 mV, and stop once you reach the target voltage calculated earlier (775 mV)

    Using the left-shift technique to setup the ramp-up portion of the frequency curve

    4) From there on, the curve should be flat, to cap the frequency at the target value. I simply set all the remaining points to the minimum value, and Afterburner later sets them all to the correct value to make the function non-decreasing

    Before Afterburner corrects the graph

    After hitting \"apply\" the curve is corrected

    5) Now test your game, and if it doesn't glitch out, then you can undervolt a bit more (repeat from step one), if the GPU still throttles (check your monitoring tool) even after finding the maximum safe undervolt, you'll have to underclock a bit more (repeat from step one). If your frame rates start to suffer, then you've underclocked too much, increase the clock speed (repeat from step 1). If you always either get good FPS but with stutters, or low FPS then you're kinda stuck because your cooling is simply not enough for the clock speed required by the game.

    Use a Cooling Stand

    The reason why I'm suggesting this last, is not because it less effective than the tweaks above, but because most of us cannot commit to using a cooling stand all the time on a laptop, otherwise we would have gone for a desktop PC.

    For those who still cant quite get enough processing power for their game without throttling, a cooling stand may be the last trick that would allow you to set the performance caps a bit higher (mainly for clock speeds, it's always a good idea to apply the maximum safe undervolt).

    Can't afford one? sometimes just putting a small box under the rear of your laptop to raise it up by an inch is enough to improve cooling ever so slightly. But if throttling is still a big problem, a stand with fans is the best solution.

    Conclusion

    To conclude, if you have a non-gaming laptop (or even a gaming laptop, but especially a non-gamin laptop) the default configuration is only good for you if you're running games that are just way below you laptop's specs. But even when your laptop PC's specs are theoretically well above the minimum game requirements, you'll likely find that you PC will often throttle and ruin the experience for you.

    Some of these tweaks are not exactly easy to implement, some slow down your computer for tasks other than gaming where throttling is not an issue. But if you really want to get rid of the last bit of throttling that is ruining your gaming experience, then you have to get out of your comfort zone and get your hand dirty, and even risk having a couple of blue screens while you're at it.

    I use all of these tricks to get my XPS 15 to run games like CS:GO, Rocket League, PUBG, and Overwatch at 60 FPS and at acceptable (if not near-max) graphics settings. Whereas I used to drop graphics settings to the minimum and still get FPS drops before. They are worth all the trouble, and sometimes using one without the other is just not enough. Power-limiting the CPU without power-limiting the GPU would mean you still didn't do anything about GPU throttling. So try to apply as many as you can.

    Did I miss any important tricks? Please let me know. I hope this helps some people out!

    submitted by /u/dellfanboy15
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    Best gaming/VR laptop for $2,000 or less?

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 10:50 AM PDT

    Title basically says it all... I've been digging through pages and pages of 8th gen vs. 9th gen CPUs, 2070 vs. 1060 GPUs, etc.

    Hoping for some guidance on the best possible laptop specs (as well as brand) I should go for if I want it to last a few years and be able to jump straight in with my Valve Index.

    Thank you!

    submitted by /u/Freelancer_Alpha1-1
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    Complete idiot when it comes to technology. Don’t even understand what some of the stuff in the request form means. Please help!

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 10:31 AM PDT

    Hello!

    I'm going to just be straight up- I need a good laptop, less than $1000, that's lightweight and has good storage. The storage is just a matter of me needing to be able to run Photoshop for work.

    I'm heading to college next month and I feel like a decent laptop would really come in handy. Please help!

    Two in ones are laptops that can also be tablets, right? That'd be cool, but not at all necessarily.

    Also, I prefer using Google Chrome, but I'm pretty sure you can just download that.

    Thanks!

    (USA)

    submitted by /u/ohsopoor
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    Advice on battery charging

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 01:29 PM PDT

    I recently bought my first laptop (not my first computer tho) and came up with a few questions. It is a 15-db0xxx by HP so battery cant be removed, as far as i know. I ask because i dont wanna ruin the battery more than i need to

    1) should i always charge it to 100% if possible, or even a lower amount is okay?

    2) is it bad to charge it while i'm using it ?

    3) is it bad if i keep it charging for a long period of time after it's at 100%? Overnight for example

    4) should i let the battery run out fully or keep some juice? (Factory settings make it hibernate at 7%)

    Thank you in advance!

    submitted by /u/PrimaryDirective
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    Laptop choosing advice needed

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 01:05 PM PDT

    Right now I have a Hp Pavillion x360 with a 7th gen i5, 8gb ddr4 ram and 128 GB SSD.

    any suggestions for a better new laptop.

    looking for something around £500-£750 with an i7 and slightly larger SSD.

    I am looking at some variants of the Acer Swift 3 and 5 but any other suggestions are very welcome

    submitted by /u/commanderxhalo
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    Really strange question, can you add ram outside of a laptop?

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:45 PM PDT

    Need a laptop for college

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:34 PM PDT

    Just need a laptop for school don't know if I should buy used or new. I have heard a lot don't know really what to go with

    submitted by /u/Lukenuke588
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    OpenBSD on the Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon (7th Gen)

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:31 PM PDT

    Razer Canada has discounted Razer Blade 15 (2018) Advance model from CAD$ 2,849 to CAD$ 1,939

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:31 PM PDT

    If you are a student then you can get a student discount on top of this price.

    Talk to Razer rep to get student discount code.

    Here are the specs

    OS Windows® 10 Home (64-bit) Processor Intel® Core™ i7-8750H processor 6 Core Graphics NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1060 Max-Q (6GB VRAM) Display 15.6" Full HD 144Hz w/ 4.9mm bezel Storage 512GB SSD Memory 16GB dual-channel Battery Up to 6 hours (80Wh) Keyboard Per key RGB Powered by Razer Chroma™ Gigabit Ethernet Not available Finish Black with backlit green logo and green USB ports Dimensions 0.66" x 13.98" x 9.25" / 16.8 mm x 355 mm x 235 mm

    Razer Blade 15 (2018)

    submitted by /u/TintaTonti
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    Can't connect to WiFi

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:31 PM PDT

    Frustrated!!HELP please!!I have a Lenovo yoga 730.recently I am unable to connect to my WiFi through my laptop.it shows connected but No,internet.even though although the other devices are showing connectivity ( 2 phones).how do I fix this what do I do?

    submitted by /u/noveeniz
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    Looking for a laptop for school

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:30 PM PDT

    * **Total budget and country of purchase:**

    $1,000 USA

    * **Do you prefer a 2 in 1 form factor, good battery life or best specifications for the money? Pick or include any that apply.**

    I want good battery life and decent specs.

    * **How important is weight and thinness to you?**

    Something lighter is preferred, but not necessary.

    * **Which OS do you require? Windows, Mac, Chrome OS, Linux.**

    Windows

    * **Do you have a preferred screen size? If indifferent, put N/A.**

    N/A

    * **Are you doing any CAD/video editing/photo editing/gaming? List which programs/games you desire to run.**

    Engineering major, so maybe some CAD. Some gaming too, but pretty light on this as I am bringing my desktop too.

    * **If you're gaming, do you have certain games you want to play? At what settings and FPS do you want?**

    Gonna play minecraft and other relatively light games (rocket league, stardew valley etc.). I'd like to max the settings on a 1080p screen and get 60 fps.

    * **Any specific requirements such as good keyboard, reliable build quality, touch-screen, finger-print reader, optical drive or good input devices (keyboard/touchpad)?**

    I don't really need anything, although thin bezels is much preferred.

    * **Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion.**

    I found this listing on amazon, but it seems way too cheap. I have been researching laptops for around 5 hours now and this seems way too good to be true. Other products I have seen with these specs are around $1,500. Can someone please explain why this one is so cheap? Should I buy it?

    Thanks a ton in advance.

    submitted by /u/luketerr8
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    Have I made right choice by purchasing Razer Blade 15 (2018) for Canadian $1,798 over Dell XPS 15 (9570)

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 03:41 AM PDT

    I was confused between Dell XPS 15 (9570) and Razer Blade 15 (2018).

    Dell XPS was Canadian $1,638 below are the specs

    8th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-8750H Processor Windows 10 Home 64bit English NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5 8GB 2x4GB DDR4-2666MHz M.2 256GB 2280 PCIe Solid State Drive

    I choose Razee Blade 15 (2018) for Canadian $1,798

    OS Windows® 10 Home (64-bit) Processor Intel® Core™ i7-8750H processor 6 Core Graphics NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1060 Max-Q (6GB VRAM) Display 15.6" Full HD 144Hz w/ 4.9mm bezel Storage 512GB SSD Memory 16GB dual-channel Battery Up to 6 hours (80Wh) Keyboard Per key RGB Powered by Razer Chroma™ Gigabit Ethernet Not available Finish Black with backlit green logo and green USB ports

    submitted by /u/TintaTonti
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    Deciding between Lenovo L340 Gaming or S540 ...

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:21 PM PDT

    So... I'm a (quite casual) gamer, and I travel and live abroad - a lot!

    I've had a Lenovo Flex 2 14" with an i5 and a Geforce 840m for the last ~5 years and I've been extremely happy with it.

    Still, it's dying now so I'm looking to upgrade. I'm after a sub £1000 laptop (I'm U.K)

    The two options that I've kind of narrowed it down to are the above (L340 Gaming, S540 - both 15.6") both of which have GTX 1650's and a choice of various RAM, SSD and Processer setups

    The price difference isn't a big issue between them. So mainly comes down to weight, size and durability.

    Does anyone have either of these laptops that can shed some light on them ... They're both new so not too many reviews out there. Any points, positive or negative would be fantastic to help me decide.

    submitted by /u/sarkbiker
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    Ram prices

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:15 PM PDT

    Do ram prices differ by speeds??

    submitted by /u/AbdulAhad24
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    Torn between 3 new laptops - help please!

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:13 PM PDT

    Hi! I'm torn between 3 laptops. Any advice is much appreciated.

    I will use it primarily for work, so internet (especially google docs), research, and MS Office applications. My husband will use it for school, so similar use with added potential for online streaming and webcam interfacing. We live in the US.

    I plan to hook up whatever I get to a 32" external monitor, so size is slightly irrelevant. I should note that I'm notorious for leaving several browser windows open but I'm hoping any of these can handle the load. I'm a little concerned with the wonkiness of touchpads and I don't need that option.

    I'd prefer to get one of the less expensive models to save the money but since I'll be using it pretty heavily I'd rather spend the extra money to save the frustration over the long run if that's going to be the case. I realize 16GB of RAM is probably overkill for our usage.

    Option 1: Dell Inspiron 17, model i3780-7407SLV-PUS, link here: https://www.costco.com/Dell-Inspiron-17-3000-Series-Laptop---Intel-Core-i7---Radeon-520---1080p---Windows-10-Pro.product.100488075.html

    Option 2: Dell Inspiron 15, model i5584-7377SLV-PUS, link here: https://www.costco.com/Dell-Inspiron-15-5000-Series-Touchscreen-Laptop---Intel-Core-i7---1080p.product.100488478.html

    Option 3: HP 15, model 15-dw0035cl, link here: https://www.costco.com/HP-15-Laptop---Intel-Core-i7.product.100487281.html

    Thanks in advance for your help, advice, and thoughts! :)

    submitted by /u/2018Elle
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    Good laptop for boomer parents?

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 12:04 PM PDT

    I want to get my parents a laptop so that they don't have to keep asking me about why their computer is slow. Is there anything within a $600 range that would be good for them?

    submitted by /u/TheBarracuda99
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    Best laptop around for £1000

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 11:52 AM PDT

    I'm going off to university and need a new laptop. The main uses would be note making, making documents, watching tutorials. But also on the sideline I would like to play some games aswell.

    submitted by /u/Maelink_
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    Good Build Quality Laptops

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 11:51 AM PDT

    Hey everyone, I was hoping for some suggestions for solidly built laptops. I saw a Lenovo 330S today with a solid metal chassis and I was quite impressed by the sturdiness of it. My first laptop was also a metal Lenovo and it was great. My current one is a flimsy bag of **** even though the specs are good, so I don't want to make that mistake again.

    I would consider the 330S although I'm worried 4GB of RAM isn't enough. I currenlty have 4GB (with an SSD) and while it is just about fine, I want something slightly future proof. I don't like buying new laptops every year and would expect whatever I buy to last about 3 minimum.

    I only use it for basic work - word processors, spotify and PDF readers - but I like to work on a fast coputer so I don't want to go too cheap and nasty. Ideally around 500 Euroes would be great.

    submitted by /u/LiftingHistorian
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    buying advice for employees

    Posted: 14 Aug 2019 09:01 PM PDT

    I want to start a company that is making simple 3d models for CNC and CAD. Would a cheaper gaming laptop be enough? Asus makes the TUF with the Ryzen and VEGA built in, it is in the 650 dollar range. What would you recommend?

    submitted by /u/nottheseapples
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    Which one to choose?

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 07:53 AM PDT

    Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon (2nd Gen)
    Processor: Intel Core i7-4550U (4M Cache, 1.5 - 3.0 GHz)
    RAM: 8GB DDR3L 1600MHz
    Hard Disk: 256GB SSD M.2 (SATA III 6Gb/s)
    Video Card: Intel HD 5000-2200MB
    Display: 14.1' 2560x1440 IPS 3K LED MAT
    Interface: 4G, Bluetooth, GPS, Camera, Finger Print Scaner, BackLit keyboard, TouchBar, HDMI, 2x USB 3.0 (1 power on), Audio in/out port, mic/speaker, OneLink port, No Optical Device
    Battery: Original 3-5H (depends)
    + Charger/Charging Cable
    + LAN to LAN adapter
    + OC Win 10 Pro (64 bit) Licensed for Win 8 Pro
    (The AD for this laptop have a lot of pictures)
    Seller is a company not private person!
    Costs: 340$ US

    OR

    Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon (No info about Gen)
    Processor: Intel Core i7-4600M (4M Cache up to 3.60 Ghz)
    RAM: 8GB DDR3L 1600MHz
    Hard Disk: 240GB SSD Intel
    Video Card: Intel HD Graphics 4400
    Display: 14.1' 2560x1440 IPS
    Interface: 3G, Camera, HDMI, Wifi, 3USB3, Card Reader, (No more information mentioned)
    Battery: 7.40+ H (Win)
    + Charger/Charging Cable
    (The AD for this laptop have a lot LESS pictures)
    Seller is not a company but a private person!
    Costs: 370$ US

    Both are used and refurbished (i think), thats all the information that was provided for both on the ADs i found on a online retailer. I think they are almost the same with slightly different specs, however i have zero to none knowledge regarding technology so i would like a knowledgeable techy to help me choose between those 2, which is better, if you were in my shoes which youd purchase? Thank you and bless ya'll.

    submitted by /u/totalhopelessnes
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    Recommendations for a cheap laptop/chromebook for use primarily as a remote terminal?

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 11:21 AM PDT

    My desktop is more than powerful enough to do everything I need, and these days I rarely need to do anything away from home that I can't do with my phone or just wait until I'm home. So I see no reason to spend what little money I have on a powerful laptop. Back in the day I was using a small android tablet and Google remote desktop to access my desktop remotely. Worked, but wasn't the best. Resolution mismatch, not great mouse control on android(at the time, on that device), etc.

    Any advice on a decent, as cheap as possible for what I'm asking, lightweight laptop/chromebook used solely as a remote connection to my desktop? I guess the three most essential aspects would be size(using it on a trip where I'll already be carrying my dslr and a ton of assorted accessories), decent screen resolution, and a good solid wifi spec. Battery life not as important, as I expect to be indoors near an outlet when I'm actually using the thing. Other features like usb-c or touchscreen are nice and all, but not at the consequence of increased cost. If there happens to be some specific model of chromebook that happens to be sold used/refurbished for especially cheap, that works. Just looking for ideas and opinions, especially from people with the same or similar use case.

    While I'm at it, any thoughts on the software side are welcome. The only remote software I've bothered with for years now is Google's remote desktop. I'm sure people have suggestions for better software. Maybe something that provides the remote client with its own desktop space, rather than trying to scale my dual 2560x1600 and 1080p monitors onto one small laptop screen?

    submitted by /u/DLSantini
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    Seeking help with deciding on some laptops, what are your thoughts on them? Would you recommend them or perhaps suggest some other laptops in the same price range?

    Posted: 15 Aug 2019 11:07 AM PDT

    As the title suggests, I'm looking for a laptop to buy, but am having trouble deciding as it would be my first ever laptop.


    Currently I'm contemplating between these laptop models:

    *Huawei Matebook D 14 with Ryzen 5 2500U and integrated Vega 8 graphics *

    It has a 14 inch 1920x1080 display, 8GB of DDR4 memory, a Ryzen 5 2500U processor with integrated Radeon Vega 8 graphics

    • There is the 256GB SSD model (53010ECR) for around 570 Euros

    • There is also the 512GB SSD model (53010GTV) which is surprisingly cheaper at around 550 Euros. Why is it cheaper? Is anything else different?

    Asus VivoBook X512DA with Ryzen 5 3500U and integrated Vega 8 graphics

    It has a 15.6 inch 1920x1080 display, 8GB of DDR4 memory, a Ryzen 5 3500U processor with integrated Radeon Vega 8 graphics

    I assume it's because the 3500U processor is new, but I can't find ANY normal reviews for this device, or am I just blind?

    Should I risk buying a lesser reviewed device, even if it has better specifications?

    There are 2 versions of this laptop: 512GB SSD (540 Euros) and 1TB HDD+128GB SSD (540 Euros)

    submitted by /u/CICERO9K
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