Home Networking Should you use a switch with a wireless router even if you don't need extra ports |
- Should you use a switch with a wireless router even if you don't need extra ports
- Looking to buy cat 6a 100ft 23awg stp cable
- Is it possible to use two routers from one modem
- I was given a router and a modem with an adapter, can I use these with my current internet in anyway?
- Looking for home network recommendations
- Router confusion
- Nighthawk xr700 or ax11000
- How can I get my wireless repeater on the same subnet as my main router?
- Coax Problem - Help
- Internet DHCP Issue on some devices
- Switch reducing internet speed
- 2 story house, coax on main floor, DSL on second floor
- (Advice) Home Network Buildout
- Wireless Router, Buying now, $150 - $200 Price range
- [Question] How to "route change default" on macOS
- Is it possible to create some local firewall/hosts/(?) rule that restricts DNS lookups?
- Please Help! Using a Vizio TV with built in Chromecast in an apartment building?
- What Am I Looking At? Community Wifi but Wanting Wired Network for PC
- [Question] Modem Compatibility Stuff
- Netgear R6100 router not connecting to modem?
- Setting Up MOCA for the first time
- TP-Link Powerline Issue
- PC very slow connecting to router
- WAP vs Mesh (Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LITE x1 vs Netgear Orbi AC3000 x2)
| Should you use a switch with a wireless router even if you don't need extra ports Posted: 02 Jul 2019 08:43 AM PDT A friend suggested to me that when setting up my network at my new apartment, I should buy a switch, I think he suggested a managed one, and I should connect all my wired connections to the switch, and the switch in to the wireless router. His reasoning was that a standalone switch would handle network traffic from multiple wired sources better than the switch built in to most consumer wifi routers, is this accurate / significant? I'll only have 3 wired connections, at least to start with [link] [comments]  |
| Looking to buy cat 6a 100ft 23awg stp cable Posted: 02 Jul 2019 06:08 PM PDT I cannot find this specific kind of cable anywhere. The reason I want it shielded is that it will be run in a wall that is near the kitchen, so there might be some interference from the microwave. For the wall reason I also prefer solid core to stranded. Please send links to cables, I cannot find cables like this that are already terminated. [link] [comments]  |
| Is it possible to use two routers from one modem Posted: 02 Jul 2019 01:31 PM PDT Since I will soon be getting a fiber connection, the ONT will act as a modem. The ISP will still supply a modem/router combo but that will only be used as a router as the modem is for DSL connections. From my understanding the router will assign IP addresses using DHCP. If I use that router for my home Ethernet network and disable the WIFI radio and connect a separate router straight to the ONT allowing that router to also assign IP addresses using DHCP to my wireless devices will their be a conflict or am I better off using the router I intend to use for my wireless devices as an access point? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jul 2019 05:18 PM PDT have a NVG510 with AT&T will these work/ be difficult to setup? Given: Archer C7 Dual Band ac1750 DOCSIS 3.0 tc-7610 TP-Link Wifi Adapter Plan to use with multiple consoles/PCs [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for home network recommendations Posted: 02 Jul 2019 08:00 PM PDT I currently have Cinci Bell FiOptics running into my Apple Airport Extreme (AAE) for 2.4 & 5ghz Wifi. This is almost at center of my home. AAE out to a cheapo 8 port NetGear non-POE switch which distributes to 7 wall outlets for my desktop, media players, PS4 etc. One outlet has a 5 port switch because of all the devices. I want to improve the 5ghz WiFi network and get the home ready for more POE devices. I use a RPi for Home Assistant (wired), a mix of Apple TVs (wired), and Echos. Would ultimately like strong WiFi speeds to cover our 50' x 33' ranch home. Hopefully some connectivity on the rear deck and garage but no LAN ports there for APs. Where does everyone recommend I start? Ubiquiti looks like a system I can expand on but start small and immediately. $300 budget to start but willing to spend more after my wedding. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jul 2019 07:46 PM PDT Hello, and sorry in advance for my ignorance. I'm not a tech guy at all, but recently I renovated an in-law suite to be closer to my parents and was shocked at how bad the WiFi was. Turns out they have been saving money by using my old router... from 2007. It's bad, and an extender helped but I still can't stream or play Xbox in the new place. I was going to just rent one of the Spectrum routers but decided I should buy instead and how have now had my ignorance exposed. I am totally lost. Trying not to spend a fortune (less than $100) and really just need decent connection to allow us to have enough for online Xbox gaming and a couple phones. Right now I am looking at the TP-Link Archer C8's because I found a good deal on a refurb, but genuinely have no idea what I am looking at. Please help. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jul 2019 07:04 PM PDT Hello. Looking to get a new router. Looking into the xr700. Or something I see that the AX11000 is coming out in August. Anyone know if it's worth the wait? [link] [comments]  |
| How can I get my wireless repeater on the same subnet as my main router? Posted: 02 Jul 2019 06:59 PM PDT I am using an LB-Link Bl-Mp01 wireless repeater and a Netgear ac750 r6020 router. My goal is to make file sharing between devices on the lb link and main router possible. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jul 2019 06:07 AM PDT I am trying to not have a Comcast visit and pay an additional $70 for internet installation. After doing the home install set up, Comcast could not connect to my modem and is my only coax outlet http://i.imgur.com/C4u3aPH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/UmOzZ3Y.jpg I am not sure that this is the problem, but I figured if I needed to replace it, I could do it myself. Any suggestions or help would be amazing! Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Internet DHCP Issue on some devices Posted: 02 Jul 2019 06:32 PM PDT I'm experience a strange issue on my homenetwork, some of my devices are not able to connect to the internet while other ones are. The phone, work machines, can't connect to the wifi, my macbook and google homes, chromecast can connect to the internet. I haven't changed anything in the network, I even reverted back to the backup I made on Sunday. Same results. I'm seeing a few errors in the Unifi Controller
Firmware version
Equipments -Unifi USG -Unifi AP Lite
[link] [comments]  |
| Switch reducing internet speed Posted: 02 Jul 2019 04:49 PM PDT So I have recently set up my home network, which consists of 3 TP Link EAP 225, and a TP Link TL-SG108PE V2 switch, which is connected to the router from the ISP. Now, if I run a ethernet cable directly from the ISP router to a computer I get my 300/300 speed. However, when I go through the switch, and then use an ethernet cable from the switch to the same computer, my download speed is reduced by 100-150 mbps, while the upload is about the same (maybe 10 mbps lower or so). I have updated the firmware on the switch, and set the IP to DHCP so that it will get the IP address from the router, and that's pretty much it. And I would think that should be enough, but apparently not. So yeah, what am I doing wrong here ? I would not consider an almost 50% speed reduction as normal, not at all. [link] [comments]  |
| 2 story house, coax on main floor, DSL on second floor Posted: 02 Jul 2019 04:47 PM PDT Hi everyone. I just moved to a new place and am having some issues with the setup of my network. My internet provider uses coax, I installed my modem/router on the main floor. I have my office upstairs, but the upstairs area only has outlets for DSL, no coax outlets. I want to connect directly to my router as I work from home. My ISP cannot add a coax outlet to the second floor. They would need to run the cable through the exterior of the house and my HOA won't allow that. What are my options here? [link] [comments]  |
| (Advice) Home Network Buildout Posted: 02 Jul 2019 06:58 AM PDT Hello Everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my home network within the next few months. My budget is $225. My goals are to:
House is 3 stories. Basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor. Internet demarc is in basement where router will be installed. AP will be ran to the middle of the house on 2nd floor hidden in closet if the wifi signal stays strong. This will be placed in a hallway if the closet creates signal loss. Also, open to an additional access point in the future if one is not sufficient. I currently have a 1Gbps powerline adapter running to the lab portion, 1Gbps 8 port switch - ps4, raspberry pis x3 and pc I've been looking at the following products (Is this equipment out of date and is something better out there that I'm not aware of? The forums I found suggesting this equipment are 1-2 years old) Low End Budget https://www.ui.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/ - $59 https://store.ui.com/collections/wireless/products/unifi-ac-lite - $89 High End Budget https://www.ui.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x-sfp/ - $99 https://store.ui.com/collections/wireless/products/unifi-ac-lr - $109 ALT RTR for both budgets: https://www.ui.com/edgemax/edgerouter-lite/ - $129 is this a better replacement then the above? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Wireless Router, Buying now, $150 - $200 Price range Posted: 02 Jul 2019 09:01 AM PDT Looking for best bet for speed and throughput. For a small business, but probably same requirements as a home. Currently they use an old wireless N model router. I don't want to have to manage the damn thing, so routers with "app" based management would be best. I found NETGEAR Nighthawk X4S AC2600 4x4 (R7800) on amazon for $167, but that is a 3 year old router at this point, so I didn't know if it was still considered a good purchase. Edit: more information Business: auto repairIsp speed: 300/20.Users: Should only be 5. Might stretch up to 10 depending upon who is there. (Friends like me and such). I'm not looking at it right now, but they are currently using a wireless n Netgear router. I did a reset on it because it was running like ass. It still acts up, so I told him it was time for an upgrade. Edit2: Might have found existing router. If it isn't the Netgear N300, it uses the exact same casing. [link] [comments]  |
| [Question] How to "route change default" on macOS Posted: 02 Jul 2019 04:15 PM PDT Hi, my work's VPN changed and they sent me a profile which installed a Sophos IPSEC vpn on my mac. When I connect to the VPN, all traffic is routed through it and they don't allow internet traffic. When I connect, "ping www.google.com" just gives timeouts. When I do "route change default -iface xx" to route all the internet traffic through my regular connection "ping www.google.com" starts working, but going to www.google.com on Safari or doing "curl www.google.com" does not. Since pinging works but curl doesn't, I wonder if there are additional route arguments I should provide to specify protocols or something. Any ideas? Thanks, [link] [comments]  |
| Is it possible to create some local firewall/hosts/(?) rule that restricts DNS lookups? Posted: 02 Jul 2019 12:28 PM PDT Desired outcome:
Google has failed me on this, I have not idea if this remotely possible? Thank you for any insight [link] [comments]  |
| Please Help! Using a Vizio TV with built in Chromecast in an apartment building? Posted: 02 Jul 2019 12:18 PM PDT Hi, I was asking for help with this issue on the Vizio subreddit but it was suggested that ask you all over here: I just bought a brand new Vizio V505-G9 TV with a built in chromecast. I hooked it up to my apartment's wifi, but whenever I click the cast button from my my phone my tv/chromecast's name doesn't show up but instead "Nearby Device" displays. I'm fairly certain this "Nearby Device" is my TV, as turning off my TV causes the "Nearby Device" to disappear. Clicking this "Nearby Device" promts me to enter a pin code, but the problem is the chromecast screen displays no pin code to enter. I have been trying various combinations of turning the tv and my phone on and off, closing/restarting apps at different times, etc, and nothing seems to bring up my tv's name when clicking the cast button. All my software is up to date. This has lead me to believe that either I have a dud of a TV, or somehow being in a apartment building using a network shared throughout the building is causing the problem. I was wondering if any of you have had similar issues with streaming devices in apartment buildings, or if anyone had any suggestions to help resolve the issue. Thanks for reading! [link] [comments]  |
| What Am I Looking At? Community Wifi but Wanting Wired Network for PC Posted: 02 Jul 2019 03:48 PM PDT First, the picture: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMHevmPTSUptr2r_Q0dYYSyedcPc3xeZVWSAq1GfTIngorr74O6LqbQtKBk9u12lw?key=YkxjUEpXZFd0ZnlTcEpVek9tbDhmM0lGR1Z3X1FB Second, the situation: I just moved into an apartment and was told that the Internet was paid for in the rent. Sweet! The unit I originally looked through had the modem and everything, but I was not able to move into that unit so I am currently in the unit above. The picture I linked to is what is in my unit - it does not appear to be a modem. I received a letter with instructions to access my Spectrum Community Solutions WiFi. So far, the Internet speeds have been excellent compared to what I was used to. I use WiFi on all my devices except my PC. Every room has outlets which include an ethernet plugin. I only tried one room, but the ethernet plugin doesn't work. I want to ask if you even think it's feasible just off the description of my setup and the picture provided. I want to game on my PC, and just about everyone agrees that wired is better. Now, I will game on WiFi but only if I have no other choice. Any thoughts? Do I need to call the Internet provider or an electrician? Is there no hope? [link] [comments]  |
| [Question] Modem Compatibility Stuff Posted: 02 Jul 2019 03:38 PM PDT So i'm with ATT and want to upgrade my modem cause there is a spot where its really weak. I looked around the sub and I read here and it says to check with ISP first for list of approved modems. I want to get ubiquiti but it seems like their modems are not on the approved list. I was wondering if there is a work around and how would I go about it given that I'm completely new to home networking stuff? [link] [comments]  |
| Netgear R6100 router not connecting to modem? Posted: 02 Jul 2019 03:35 PM PDT The "Online" light on my modem is flashing orange. The ISP says it's not a problem with the modem it must be the router. I have unplugged both, reset, plugged back in and all that good stuff but my internet speed is still disgustingly slow. My download speed barely reaches above 3 and upload speed is nearly non existent. My internet slows and disconnects often and I do not know what to do. I can't talk to Netgear support without paying them and I cant find anything on their forums about this. [link] [comments]  |
| Setting Up MOCA for the first time Posted: 02 Jul 2019 02:27 AM PDT I will be setting up a MOCA connection in my home, as the WiFi doesn't reach our back rooms and upstairs for Smart TV's, Fire Stick, Xbox, etc. I have never done anything with MOCA, so this is a first for me on a couple different levels. Tried WiFi Extenders, did not work well enough. I have read several different articles on setting up MOCA, but it seems like people are doing different things and it gets confusing, so I just wanted to see if what I am planning will work or not. I am on Spectrum for internet and we do not have any services that use the coax cable. I currently have an Arris TM1602 modem that connects to a Netgear R6300 Smart WiFi Router and apparently I have to use these items. Spectrum told me that I cannot change these. Those are the equipment Spectrum gave me and I have to use them. Not sure if that is true or not. I have one desktop that is hard wired to the router. According to the Arris modem product overview, it does have a MOCA Immunity Filter but I cannot find the MOCA symbol or anything that says MOCA on the modem. To be honest, I am not really sure what an Immunity Filter does, but it sounds like it does the same thing as a PoE Filter. The hardware: MOCA - Motorola Model MM1000 Bonded 2.0 Adapter or the Actiontec Bonded MOCA 2.0 Model ECB6200 PoE Filter - Holland Electronics for $7 on Amazon Router that will run in Access Point mode - TP-Link N450 WiFi Router The only wireless things that will be running on the routers/access points will be cell phones, so I really don't think I need much more than that. I will install a PoE filter, and this is where my first question comes in. Does this get installed out of the cable box outside my home, does it get installed just prior to where it enters the modem, or does it get installed just prior to the MOCA? Next, I am going to connect the coax cable from the wall to the MOCA 2.0. Then connect a coax cable and an ethernet cable from the MOCA to the modem. I will then connect the 2nd and 3rd MOCAs to coax cable in the rooms needed. I will also add a router/access point to each MOCA via ethernet cable. In one room (2nd MOCA) I will run a coax from MOCA to a TV. In the other room (3rd MOCA) I will run an ethernet cable from router/access point to an XBox. Am I correct in thinking that since I do not plan on running any cable boxes or set-top boxes in the near future, I shouldn't need any splitters? I used others posts in this community to work this up, so I hope I was understanding the information. Does this look like a sound set up that will work correctly? I welcome any feedback that will help me build this the best I can and so it functions correctly. EDIT - I made a crude drawing of my plan. https://imgur.com/0OJomFQ [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Jul 2019 01:39 PM PDT Due to my current situation I have no other choice but to use powerline ethernet to get ethernet to my computer. I bought the TP-Link TL-PA7010P kit. I had some issues where the the units would show that they were connected but I would have no connection in Windows. With no help from the manual's troubleshooting page, I decided to update the devices' firmware; which is done through the TP-PLC Utility software. Still no luck, but I managed to figure out that turning off the power save mode on both of the devices through the software made the network show up in Windows. The next day, the network was not working again, but all three connection lights on the two units were green, which means there are no problems with the connection, but there obviously is. Again, I opened the software and turned on the power save and turned it off again on both devices. This fixes the issue, but it will still go out at random. I am currently waiting for a response from TP-Link's support email, we have had multiple back and forth troubleshooting and the rep said that they will have to escalate the issue to someone who knows more about it. [link] [comments]  |
| PC very slow connecting to router Posted: 02 Jul 2019 01:06 PM PDT Since yesterday I noticed, via PingPlotter software, that the connection to my router is taking 50-90ms. where it used to be always less than 10ms. I have stopped every program and still it continues. I am running Windows 10, am on a Powerline connection to router but same result if on WiFi. I have gone in to Defender to block ALL conections, which stops everything, but nothing happens when I disable all on the outbound(allow) rules or inbound rules. I'm stumped. I play iracing and whatever it is, is doubling my ping time to their servers. Any suggestions appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| WAP vs Mesh (Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LITE x1 vs Netgear Orbi AC3000 x2) Posted: 02 Jul 2019 03:06 AM PDT Hi everyone, I have a dilemma deciding between getting a Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LITE x1 vs Netgear Orbi AC3000 x2. I will need it in a 1-storey ~250 sq metre (2700 sq feet) house with brick walls. What would have the best performance overall throughout the house – 1x UAP-AC-LITE placed in the middle of the house or 2x Orbis placed in both halves of the house? In particular, I'm wondering what people's experiences are with the UAP's signal strength through walls. Also another q - for the access point, is it counter-productive to keep the original modem/router wifi active when using the access point? Especially if it's in the same room? edit: typed 350 instead of 250 for house size oops [link] [comments]  |
| You are subscribed to email updates from HomeNetworking, community based networking help. To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
| Google, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043, United States | |
No comments:
Post a Comment