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    Saturday, September 29, 2018

    Home Networking My ISP upgraded my speed too 100 Mbps but my E4200 won't go above 26Mbps. Please help.

    Home Networking My ISP upgraded my speed too 100 Mbps but my E4200 won't go above 26Mbps. Please help.


    My ISP upgraded my speed too 100 Mbps but my E4200 won't go above 26Mbps. Please help.

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 05:46 PM PDT

    PROBLEM SOLVED! (See updates below)

    When I have my computer wired directly to my cable modem I get ~ 100Mbps. But when I attach my E4200 it won't go above 28Mbps. (By the way, I am referring to direct cable connections, not wifi speeds.) What can I do to fix this?

    Thank you!

    EDIT and UPDATE:

    I solved the original problem by disabling IPv6. I'm now getting 120Mbps downloads.

    Now I just have one remaining problem. My Wifi download speeds are stuck in the low 20s even though the devices I'm using to measure the speed are literally mere inches away from the router. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks again.

    EDIT AND UPDATE 2:

    The WiFi problem was just solved by turning off Media Prioritization

    submitted by /u/Amygdaloidal_Dream
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    Looking for a very basic WiFi router for my Switch

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 11:41 AM PDT

    I live in a place with free WiFi, but you have to enter both your username and password. (As far as I can tell, this is WPA2-Enterprise?) This works fine on my laptop and phone, but I'm not able to connect my Nintendo Switch to it. (The WiFi settings don't let you enter a username.)

    I do have access to Ethernet, but I mostly play in handheld mode at this point. So I'm looking for a basic, hopefully fairly cheap, router. I don't need much range at all (this is just for one small room) or much bandwidth (it's just for one device.) Most of the ones I've seen in stores are way above what I need (and more expensive than I'm willing to pay without searching a bit more), so I just wondered if there's anything cheaper.

    submitted by /u/CoastersPaul
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    Android Dns Setting on Android

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 03:57 PM PDT

    I am trying to change dns setting on my android phone i try dns setting on all of my android phones running oreo 8.0 and custom rom it didn't work i try cloudflare dns and google dns it only worked on my android tv running 4.4.2 or apple iphone, ipad, macbook windows pc and linux pc or laptop why it is not working on android i have comcast as isp my modem & router dont let me change my dns setting thats's why i use static ip and dns on all my my electronics

    submitted by /u/AppLDroid
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    R7000P dos attacks, connection drops for about 20 seconds 4-5x a day...

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 05:11 PM PDT

    I have FTTH and using my own netgear r7000p for the router. Running latest netgear firmware. None of my devices ever show no internet connection during these "drops" but if i am paying xbox online i get kicked from whatever online game I am in.

    Okay so I did some ping testing. I was playing xbox online . So I went to the two cmd windows I had running on my laptop.

    Ping statistics for 192.168.1.1: Packets: Sent = 1537, Received = 1535, Lost = 2 (0% loss), Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds: Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 678ms, Average = 2ms

    and also for my default GATEWAY.

    Ping statistics for 68.207.xxx.x (change for my security): Packets: Sent = 1489, Received = 1486, Lost = 3 (0% loss), Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds: Minimum = 1ms, Maximum = 421ms, Average = 9ms

    So I matched up the rows in each CMD prompt window to find where I thought there were issues/spikes/whatever. I'll call the 68.207.xxx.x IP "gateway" and the 192.168.1.1 "local"

    Line 32

    Gateway: 13ms

    Local: 1ms

    Line 39

    Gateway: 14ms

    Local: 15ms

    Line 41

    Gateway: 10ms

    Local:1ms

    Line 47

    Gateway: 13ms

    Local: 1ms

    Line 48

    Gateway: 12ms

    Local: 1ms

    Line 49

    Gateway: Says that "192.168.1.1 is not reachable)

    Local: 1ms

    Line 50

    Gateway: 3ms

    Local: 1ms

    Line 51

    Gateway: 21ms

    Local: 1ms

    Line 52

    Gateway: 13ms

    Local: 1ms

    I have no idea how to interpret this but obviously something happened. Line 49 was where my reoccurring xbox issue happened. The default gateway couldnt reach 192.168.1.1 but 192.168.1.1 still ping from my laptop at the same time at 1ms...

    In my router log it showed the disconnect and then 3 subsequent DOS attacks FIN SCAN. 2 from "Amazon" one from Time Warner Cable. I have Spectrum which is partnered with TWC.

    This drop of connection for 20-30 seconds ONLY occurs when i get These DOS attacks my netgear reports in router logs

    submitted by /u/jave3214
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    Verizon Quantum G1100 not working well with new Google WiFi Mesh router, and vice versa.

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 11:38 AM PDT

    I bought the Google WiFi because the speeds on the Verizon's router are horrible. I connected the GWiFi and got incredible speeds. But I started to realize that I couldn't control my Sonos speakers on my wires computer, but I could on my phone over WiFi, as well as couldn't get any Plex working outside my network, none the less my computer. I understood I had a Double NAT situation. I called up Verizon to get the router into bridge mode, but for some reason it wouldn't enter it and I had to reset my router to factory settings. Their best work around was sending me another router, which did not work any better.

    Here's the setup:

    ONT>WAN port on Verizon G1100 (coax cable goes into the STB in the other room)>port2 into Google WiFi

    I DO have tv with Verizon, but I DON'T care about losing the guide.

    I really would like to keep Google WiFi for their amazing router, and Verizon for its speed.

    Does anyone know what I could do to get everything working ??

    submitted by /u/ks7084
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    Will the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X PoE port be able to power my SONY SNC-DH160?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 06:24 AM PDT

    I've upgraded 99% of my network to a gigabit switch, and the only device that's left to switch over is the SONY SNC-DH160.

    Near the bottom it says that the camera is:

    IEEE 802.3af compliant (PoE) Class 0

    and the max power is 12.9 W max.

    The new gigabit switch doesn't have PoE, so I was wondering if the PoE port of EdgeRouter X would be able to power it. In the dropdown for activating PoE, theres two options: "Off" and "Passthrough".

    Should I be OK to use this passthrough functionality, or should I use an injector? If I need to use the injector, will the one provided with the UAP-AC-Lite be good enough?

    submitted by /u/throwingsomuch
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    Should I get another Router or a Signal booster?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 11:39 AM PDT

    My ISP uses the Arris TG1672G as their main box and rents for $5 extra a signal booster which is the TP Link AC1750. Since that is really a bad deal on having a $5 extra per month on my bill, should I get another router or a signal extender to increase the WIFI signal? I already ran a ethernet cable to the side where I barely get any signal.

    submitted by /u/TheUnluckyGamer13
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    Recommend Spectrum Router Tons of Devices

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 12:03 PM PDT

    Hi all. I just upgraded from 30mps to 200mps with spectrum Internet. February 2018, I got tired of paying 10/monthly for a crappy years old modem rental and bought a Motorola N450 and it's been good. It will not allow me to get 200mps though (just under 100mps), so I have to get something else.

    First I have a load of devices on this combo modem/router. The only thing connected by cable to the device is a western digital cloud drive. Everything else is wifi only.

    4 printers 2 phones 3 laptops Kindle fire tablet Ipad Roku Apple tv 2 smart TVs Smart bluray player Harmony hub/remote, not sure if that's wifi 2 echos I'm sure I'm forgetting some things ;)

    Anyway I kind of pulled the trigger on a motorola MG7550 for $155 that's shipping. But is there any other solution I should be looking at? I dont want to spend much more. The N450 was pretty solid so I had good experiences. I have a 4 bdr two story home that needs a good signal. We stream DirectTV, my husband plays multiplayer army type games, so we are somewhat demanding. Thanks for any advice.

    submitted by /u/ginakra
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    Cox disconnecting internet when I turn VPN

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 08:05 PM PDT

    Hey all - I've looked through the posting guidelines and have searched not only this sub- but a couple of others, only getting scattered bits and pieces of information.

    I have Cox internet and literally just as of tonight (Sat 9/29) whenever I turn on my NordVPN software, my internet gets disconnected. Is this legal now? If not, how do I get them to stop?

    I know everyone thinks they have the worst ISP, but I'll throw my hat in the ring: Cox in my part of the country is awful. It doesn't help that the local offices are staffed by dishonest, shady people OR people who are so in need of a semi-ok paycheck that they'll do or say whatever is asked of them.

    submitted by /u/Oatmeal_Glue
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    Will connecting a Wireless N device to a 5ghz AC router affect all other AC Devices?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 08:05 PM PDT

    I recently bought the ASUS RT-1900 and I have two networks (2.4ghz and 5Ghz). My question is, if all my devices are compatible with Wireless A/C and are connected to the 5Ghz Network, will connecting a device that supports only supports b/g/n to the 5Ghz Network drop all the other connections to Wireless N speeds?

    submitted by /u/Admiral-Chicken
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    Router or software to monitor which countries IPs my house is contacting, bandwidth, time of connection, etc?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 07:54 PM PDT

    I have various IoT devices, PCs, etc and I always hear about China this or Russia that and I want to know, which IoT devices are contacting China? Or is there a lot of data being transferred to China? I don't need something packet-level, such as Wireshark. I hoped maybe Google mesh or one of the other newer routers had such a feature, because otherwise, wouldn't I need a PC running all the time and port mirroring? I'd settle for that if there's something good and a router solution doesn't exist.

    Surely others have this same concern.

    submitted by /u/Cyber-X1
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    Just got a new NETGEAR R6230 and I'm getting periodic latency issues. Any ideas?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 07:36 PM PDT

    I recently purchased this router to replace my TP-Link N600 router that completely died on me after 4 years. It seemed like a reasonable piece of hardware for the price to me, but I'm not a networking guru by any stretch of the imagination.

    Now, download/upload speeds with this new NETGEAR router seem fine, but when trying to watch Twitch streams, the streams stop to buffer for a few seconds every 5 minutes or so (dropping frames I believe it's called?). Very frustrating. This rarely, if ever, happened when I was using the N600 router, or even if I switch back to my old-but-functional Linksys WRT54GL. I haven't changed any other piece of hardware with this computer. This issue only started happening after I set up this new router.

    What's the deal? Does this router just have trouble handling video streaming? Is there some setting I need to adjust on the router's webpage? Did I just get a bad piece of hardware? Should I return it and get something else?

    I'd greatly appreciate any input.

    submitted by /u/creosoto
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    PPPoE drops connection at random times

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 09:44 AM PDT

    Basically, the connection drops out all the time, I can't determine if the problem is on the ISPs end or mine.

    The first time they set this connection up it was in much worse condition, the line kept dropping every hour or even less, sometimes the link was up for no more then 5 minutes then I lost connection again. Then I tried all kinds of troubleshooting to no avail. I called customer service, they eventually came, checked the wires on the poles outside, and in our house. They wired me to the master directly. Had the exact same problem, not even the slightest improvement. So naturally and pissed I called them again, this time they replaced my slave modem, and even the master outside, this provided a noticeable improvement but still didn't fix the problem. Now the internet goes out after 6 or 5 sometimes even up to 16 hrs of usage. I could sort of live with this, but let's be honest I cannot control when the connection can drop because it's completely random, sometimes the link went out every 30 seconds for instance. For playing online this is not the ideal connection either so I have to do something.

    The ACT led on the slave modem goes off for 2-10 seconds, I lose connection, the led lights up again and after waiting sometimes seconds, sometimes minutes, the connection comes back. Sometimes the router realized that I don't have internet access and the light turns amber, even though the ACT on the modem is already solid green. This is where it gets weird, this type of connection drop happens rarely but still does happen. The modem shows the link is up, but I still cannot connect to the internet, the wifi doesn't work either.

    I've tried bypassing the router as well when this happens and with a solid green ACT led, the windows troubleshooter sometimes showed me Error 651 or "Your computer appears to be correctly configured, but the device or resource (DNS server) is not responding" . I've tried bypassing the router in general and that didn't fix the problem either. I also tried Google's entering public DNS but neither did that.

    If I have to call them again it would be a bit embarrassing for me, and I guess also for them since they cannot fix the problem. At this point I don't know what else is possible to do to improve the situation.

    The routers system log when the internet goes out looks like this : https://imgur.com/6sYJJcm

    And if the DNS server doesn't respond it looks like this : https://imgur.com/fanSzIX

    Network settings on the router : https://imgur.com/a/kDYfM4y

    Router : TP-Link Archer C50

    Slave : AccEOC21

    ISP : RCS & RDS or DIGI Romania (if it matters)

    I'd like to clarify I do live in a small village in sort of the middle of nowhere but that shouldn't be an excuse.

    submitted by /u/ShadowTH321
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    A/B Ethernet Switch With Wireless Remote?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 07:01 PM PDT

    I have a VPN router which all traffic goes through but Netflix is blocked. Does a toggle switch with a wireless remote exist where I can run two connections, VPN and WAN and switch between those two connections, similarly to an HDMI switch? I have Amazon firesticks that currently use ethernet and connect to my main router. I was thinking if I use the current router for VPN and another one for WAN I could just use a physical wireless remote to switch to WAN when watching. What would be best is an automatic software based switch which detects a Netflix connection and automatically switch it to WAN but I don't know if that's possible.

    submitted by /u/Machinebroke
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    Any expert with Windstream and Comtrend?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 06:15 PM PDT

    Have been using a Comtrend 3100u modem for awhile now with no issue. 2 weeks ago started having Gbond Windstream internet drop out 1-2x per day. Gradually increased over a week until several times a day. Reported issue and got tech out today who found I have a low down link signal. Had a programmer do something to improve that and called it good. 2 hours later internet is dropping 3-4 times per hour so I called customer support. At this point I had intermittent internet, but it was usable. Customer support went to reset my connection and suddenly I have zero internet and my internet light is red. Called customer support back and they said it's not their issue something changed in my modem randomly. I looked at signal data and see eat DSL2 quiet line noise has a harmonic with 14 tone spacing and the fault says that my username name and ps can't be verified with ISP but I followed all of Comtrend's instructions and they say it's my ISP problem. How do I fix it?

    submitted by /u/oyster_jam
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    Router MAC Address setting: DEFAULT, COMPUTER, OR "USE THIS"

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 09:46 AM PDT

    In my netgear r7000p router settings theres the option

    Router MAC Address Use Default Address Use Computer MAC Address Use This MAC Address

    Does it matter which one I choose? Does using the default compared to computer have any type of impact? If i chose use the computer option it would be using the MAC address of my laptop that I only use wifi on.

    submitted by /u/jave3214
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    eno2 is suddenly eth0?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 05:13 PM PDT

    Not sure what I did, but I was trying to bridge my two network ports and I kept getting 'eno2 device does not exist' and finally figured out that it was renamed to eth0. So now I have eno1 and eth0. What did I do, and how do I make eth0 back into eno2? Or at least make eno1 -> eth0 and eno2 (which is now eth0) -> eth1

    submitted by /u/19wolf
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    Weird Router issue

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 01:10 PM PDT

    I looked for other posts but couldn't find my same issue. I have a cable modem with 1 Ethernet port from Spectrum my cable company. I connect an Archer A7 router to it. All of my devices work fine via wifi until I connect an Ethernet cable from a device (I've tried my IP camera and desktop) to any of the LAN ports on the router. Once an Ethernet cable is connected the routers connection to the network light turns orange instead of green and I lose all internet connectivity. The only fix I've found is to remove the Ethernet cable and restart the router. Any ideas how to fix? I've tried multiple devices, ports and cables.

    submitted by /u/travdivs
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    Is my router powerful enough? Looking for upgrade.

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 07:57 AM PDT

    I have an Asus RT-AC56U running Asuswrt-Merlin, which I bought in 2015. Specs:

    • ARMv7 Processor rev 0 (v7l) - (Cores: 2)
    • CPU Frequency 800 MHz
    • RAM: 250 MB
    • NVRAM usage: 53405 / 65536 bytes

    It is running 3 SSIDs, one for 2.4 GHz, another 5 GHz (867 Mbps), and one for the Guest Network.

    At the bare minimum, there are 10 devices connected:

    • 2 PCs
    • 2 laptops
    • 4 phones
    • 1 iPad
    • 1 torrentbox (connected via Gigabit LAN)

    My internet speed is 30 Mbps down, 5Mbps up, with a VPN Client at the router level. Router CPU usage is around 80% with 70% of RAM usage. Typical traffic is videos and gaming on PC/laptop/tablet. Phones are light usage. Torrentbox is downloading 24/7.

    I am going to upgrade my internet to 150 Mbps down, 15 Mbps up, and possibly add another router level VPN since PIA is slow AF.

    I am thinking that my current router isn't up to the task, especially with my torrent box running 24/7, and adding another VPN won't help.

    I am considering replacing my router with a separate router + AP:

    • Ubiquiti Networks ER-X-SFP-US Advanced Gigabit Router [$120]
    • Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-LITE-US Dual-Radio Access Points (Single Pack) [$120]

    Would these be sufficient enough for my use case? Any alternatives or changes you would make?

    submitted by /u/oceanadapter
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    Installing lede on an Archer a7?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 07:11 AM PDT

    Specifically this.

    submitted by /u/The-Toon
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    Waking up windows 10 from a windows 7 PC

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 05:07 AM PDT

    Hello,

    I have two computers (one has windows 10, the other has windows 7) connected in a home network with a switch.

    When the windows 10 computer is in sleep mode, I cannot see the shared folders from the other PC. Is there a way to wake up the windows 10 computer from the windows 7 computer?

    I've already checked "wake up on magic packet" on the windows 10 computer.

    Thank you very much for your input!

    submitted by /u/chrisr34000
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    Asus RT-AC66U B1 vs RT-ACRH17

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 11:04 AM PDT

    They both are similar speed, and on amazon priced within $5 from each other. From what I can tell the ACRH17 (and ARCH13) are newer models but both have quad core processor and MU-MIMO. While RT-AC66U B1 is dual core with the popular broadcom chip and supports merlin.

    Which of these routers is the better choice, does anyone have experience with either? Thanks.

    submitted by /u/roundleafbirch
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    New router, Macbook loses WiFi after coming back from sleep

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 02:31 PM PDT

    I just returned the router I was leasing from my ISP and replaced it with my own.

    Router: Trendnet TEW-824DRU running DD-WRT v3.0-r36698 std (08/22/18)

    Client: MacBook Pro (circa 2011)

    Frequency: 5Ghz

    My home network seems to work pretty good overall.

    But when my MacBook returns from sleep, I can't connect to websites. I can't even ping the router -- but weirdly I can ping other hosts on the network (like my raspberry pi).

    Turning WiFi off and back on (on my MacBook) fixes the problem.

    The DHCP server has plenty of open spaces for leases. No other client is having problems and my MacBook wasn't having this issue with my ISP's router.

    Any ideas?

    submitted by /u/dustball
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    Connectivity issues with modem

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 02:27 PM PDT

    I'm using an ARRIS CM8200A modem. I have issues with the internet disconnecting (often for short intervals) and issues with pack loss (or something causing ping spikes in online games). I'm connected directly to my router via Ethernet cable. The problem is intermittent and happens at random. Some days i can play fine all day, no issues. Other days i cant play games at all. I did have a tech come to my house, and they found bad ingress at my neighbors home which was affecting my connection. Fixing that problem did make my issues far less severe, however, there are still times, at least a few times a day where it still happens.

    Here is a screenshot of my modem status:

    https://imgur.com/a/xtCjEdS

    From what I've searched, the downstream power levels are a little bit too high and that may be what is causing my issues. I've also read people talking about buying something like this: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=attenuator+coax&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aattenuator+coax to lower the downstream signal.

    The last channel (which i have no idea what it is or what it does) seems to be getting a lot of corrected errors. At one time (not in picture) it was over 1 trillion (yes trillion, there were 12-0s/13 digits). That seems concerning.

    Any other opinions? And if this would be the best course of action, should I buy a 6 or 10dB attenuator? And after i receive it, where is the best place to put it? On the line connecting to my home from the sidewalk? the line that comes into my home? Or the line inside that connects to my modem? Thanks.

    submitted by /u/iwouldntevenrapeme
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    I got a linksys 1900AC at a yard sale for $5! I want to use it to extend my network wirelessly as well as have a drive hooked up to it for remote access. My current router is an apple airport extreme. Whats the best setting to have the linksys set as? Bridge? repeater?

    Posted: 29 Sep 2018 11:59 AM PDT

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