Lost about 30-40 GB of storage on my Hard disk without doing anything. Tech Support |
- Lost about 30-40 GB of storage on my Hard disk without doing anything.
- BIOS update needed?
- PC is slower after upgrade
- How do you do this? Powershell question
- Acer laptop advertised as having the Geforce MX150 GPU but system says its a Intel UHD 620?
- Shit + key does nothing with a few specific keys, so now I can't ask questions.
- NAT type randomly changing between strict/moderate/open while playing games.
- Help, possible GPU problem
- Looking for a command line to reset my wireless connection. Not the router, but my computer's entire wireless network connection.
- No connection windows 10 wired
- TeamViewer alternative
- Phone thinks I'm a different location to where I am
- Can't get computer to recognize phone while in download mode
- [Win 10] My Taskmanager says that I'm using up 91% of my RAM (8 GB) when I'm only using ~5 GB
- Disabling secure boot
- Why is my supposed to be "beast" PC under-performing so heavily?
- My mother unplugged my computer from my wall and now I plugged it back in and everything turns on but nothing will show up on the monitor screen and I don’t know what to do
- PNY 256gb SD card not formatting...
- Screen keeps shifting up and down continously
- Android 7.1.1 can't disable sync
- PC crashing to grey screen under stress
- Confused about what drivers to install [Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming]
- Best Options for Storing Movies?
- Cannot Log In On RasPlex
| Lost about 30-40 GB of storage on my Hard disk without doing anything. Posted: 28 Jul 2018 08:19 PM PDT So first a little backstory. I have a hard disk which has roughly 1 TB of space. I noticed it was getting pretty low, so I decided to delete some games I had on there. It went from around 90 to 120 Gb, so I was satisfied and continued on my day. A few days later the internet goes down and I decide to check how much space was left in my Hard disk. It was now 83 Gb. I have no idea how the hell this happened. It couldn't possibly be an update, considering the internet is down, so how the hell does 120 go down to 83. I've deleted some other stuff now, and it's back to 136, but still what the hell happened? I use Windows 10. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Jul 2018 11:35 PM PDT ^(hey guys, im a big noob over here, i hope i dont bother you if i post something dumb, but im kinda worried. Thanks in advance) Hello, i reciently got my first own-built pc, and its running great so far (Ryzen 5 1400, RX 560, 8GB A data ram and a GA-A320M motherboard from gygabyte. The problem is, reciently my pc has crashed between 3 or 4 times the last 2 weekends. I cheked the components and they are clean and working properly, but someone suggested that i checked the bios and i think that its out of date. Ill give you the info that i got. I checked the bios info within the boot information that is given and i got this parameters: Bios Version F20 Bios Date 02/07/18 Bios ID 8A06BG0T So, i googled the bios ID and google threw a gigabyte excel spreadsheet with a lot of info about their motherboards and its says the following about my motherboard model: BIOS ID - the same as above MB NAME - GA-A320M-S2H (rev 1.0) (i dont know if this means that i got the 1.0 motherboard); and, row without name - 0= INTEL A320, AMI BIOS, VER. F22. So, does this means that my motherboard goes up to version F22? wait, there's more! Within the recent drivers page of Gigabyte, i found 2 options for my mobo: Version F23d, date 2018/04/17 (Description: 1. uPDATE AGESA 1.0.0.2a + SMU FW 43.18) and Version F22, dated from 2018/03/16 (Description: 1. Update AGESA 1.0.0.1a) .......... So, im pretty confused in a lot of thigs, so i'll close the thread asking some questions for you guys. Is my bios dated? Should I update the drivers? If i should, which ones should i choose? the F22 version that states the document of gigabyte's document or the newest one that appears in the drivers sections on my mobo in the manufactorers webpage? You have no idea how thankful i'll be if you can help me. Thanks a lot. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2018 12:08 AM PDT Before: i3, 4gb ram, 1tb, GT620; After: i3,8gb ram, 2tb, GT620 (not a big upgrade, i changed my mobo so I decided to put more ram and storage because I use a lot with movies) Before I could stream games like osu! / The Sims 4 with 30-40 fps using OBS Now my GPU is 100% in ANY game and there's none left for OBS so it's laggy and max 15 fps All my drivers are up to date. What happened? Before it had nothing, I know my GPU is old but before the changes/windows reinstall I played games on medium with 60 fps and could stream them with 30+ fps on 720/540 (I'm not a big streamer, but I like to stream for fun, usually just to show my friends how I do in osu! - - extra:
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| How do you do this? Powershell question Posted: 29 Jul 2018 01:00 AM PDT |
| Acer laptop advertised as having the Geforce MX150 GPU but system says its a Intel UHD 620? Posted: 28 Jul 2018 11:05 PM PDT Hi, I recently purchased an Acer Aspire 5 (A515-51G-53MR) laptop from Best Buy. It was advertised as having the Geforce MX150 graphics card. I ran some games and noticed that it was very slow for a computer claimed to have an MX150. I ran dxdiag and it says the graphics card is actually an Intel UHD 620. Please see the screenshot here: https://imgur.com/a/zxZrXRE. The first screenshot is the Direct X Diagnostic Tool displays, the second is what the Nvidia Control Panel displays. Clearly there is some contradiction here. Can someone shed some light on this? Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Shit + key does nothing with a few specific keys, so now I can't ask questions. Posted: 28 Jul 2018 02:18 PM PDT Recently I had a lot of trouble with Windows 10 randomly swapping my keyboard layout from the one I use to US one. I'd disabled most of the windows shortcuts for swapping my system language so I shouldn't be doing it accidentally, but it still kept happening. Finally I found out that I could go into specific language settings in Settings/Region & language and set all the languages to use the same keyboard layout. Now even if the language swaps for some reason, the layout doesn't. Except now the keyboard no longer makes some of the symbols when using shift. Like I can't make question marks, forward slashes or the and mark. Pressing the buttons without shift does make the symbol it's supposed to. So to be clear, on my keyboard, the key right of zero makes a + mark normally, question mark with shift and a backslash with alt. Normal and alt work, but when I press shift and the button, nothing happens. On most other keys, shift plus button works just fine. Any ideas on how to fix this? It's a massive pain. Editing OP with something new I noticed with the help here:
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| NAT type randomly changing between strict/moderate/open while playing games. Posted: 29 Jul 2018 02:17 AM PDT Hello, I've been struggling with NAT type Strict/Moderate/Open randomly changing for little over a year. My ISP came to check it out (a friend works there) and said they are not blocking any ports etc. Last year we got an upgrade for our internet speed and with that came new modem +( the antenna ?little satellite not sure ) before this upgrade I had Permanently Open NAT type. Game that its affecting now (Call of Duty: WW2) I don't pay for the Internet, my parents do. Why I want Open or at least Moderate NAT type ? Well the answer is simple, If my NAT type is strict I am unable to connect to my friends. How does the strict NAT usually go away ? Either I wait random amount of time or I unplug and plug in the power cable on the router . The things I tried so far :
If you can give me any suggestions ? What else could be the cause of it ? It changes even while I'm playing the games (mainly CoD titles). Thank you, if you actually read all this .
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| Posted: 29 Jul 2018 02:04 AM PDT Hi everyone! As the title says I think I have a GPU malfunction but I need to make sure and to see some possible solutions, if there are any. I have a 1300x oced to 3.7 on a MSI Mortar Arctic and a MSI 1060 Armor 3gb, using a 27" AOC monitor and a 19" AOC as a secondary monitor. I was using my pc last night, I left and I fell asleep for a while, when I came back, the screen was in standby, or that's what I thought. It didn't wake up, so I restarted. Since the BIOS splash screen there were this odd staticky noise on the screen, it carried through the desktop, which had a 800x600 resolution for some reason. The static noise would react to where the mouse was passing. I tried to at least get back the resolution to 1080 but it didn't change at all. I noticed nvidia geforce experience icon weren't on the toolbar so I downloaded it, installed the newest gpu drivers, restarted and voila, everything was in order again. So I started playing a show I'm watching, then some minutes in, both my screens showed a weird pattern, along with this noise through the headphones. Until it went to black. After that I tried to access the BIOS but the screen noise was still there, and the screen went to black just after I got to see the BIOS menu. I turned it off and left it like that cause I don't want to keep turning it off with the button. So... any ideas? Any help will be appreciated I do have a spare GT 710 i bought for my father so I'll try that for now. Thank for everything! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2018 01:42 AM PDT Have a repeated issue with the wireless connection failing, not an issue with the router as my ps4 or my friend's phones never seem to have an issue, and it always deteriorates until eventually it actually does reset the wireless network connection, after running diagnosis in the Wireless network connection status window. ATM at the "Your computer appears to be correctly configured, but the device or DNS server is not responding" bit. still have net, bit its like a tenth of the speed i normally get, and other things, like the ps4, aren't compromised at this point, either, so i doubt it's the router. I know i can reset the router through the computer by going to its address, the 192.168.X.X thing, but that doesn't always help. so, was hoping there was a command line i could use to actually trigger the full 'resetting the wireless network connection' thing, instead. just disconnecting and reconnecting, doesn't help, resetting the router doesn't always help, etc. I've tried updating the drivers in the device manager for network adapters, didn't help any. gonna try and make a .bat file to just be able to reset it at any point, rather than wait till it deteriorates to the point that even the Windows Diagnostics actually bothers to do something. running windows 7, hp 2000 notebook pc. [link] [comments]  |
| No connection windows 10 wired Posted: 29 Jul 2018 04:28 AM PDT bought a new desktop. Motherboard is z370 strix. Connection says it has no internet access and troubleshooting, ethernet connection doesnt have a valid ip configuration. Tried restarting router plugging replugging cables etc. Pls help [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2018 04:19 AM PDT I am a sole trader and support about 50 PCs remotely. I'm looking for a similar tool to TeamViewer. Simple unattended access without paying €500 per month. Needs to have address book, and ability to use remote from PC and iOS [link] [comments]  |
| Phone thinks I'm a different location to where I am Posted: 29 Jul 2018 04:12 AM PDT For some reason my router which used to be set up in a different location is now set up 150 miles away however my phone keeps thinking I'm either located in the right place or alternatively located in the place that the router used to be set up. I've reset the router and forgotten and reconnected to the network on my phone but it's still doing it, how can I fix this as obviously it's annoying with location based apps? [link] [comments]  |
| Can't get computer to recognize phone while in download mode Posted: 29 Jul 2018 04:08 AM PDT So I get an HTC desire 626s the other day and I decided I was going to try to downgrade it from marshmellow to lollipop because I just felt like messing around on it. I unlock the phone, replace the recovery menu with the latest TWRP manager, then I attempted to use TWRP to install SuperSU. SuperSU says it installed, and the phone reboots. Now it's just stuck on a white HTC loading screen forever. I can't even seem to flash a stock rom to the phone because for some reason whenever it's in download mode it's not detected by my computer. It will make the noise like it's been connected, but I can't actually get the computer to interact with it in anyway on either the HTC screen or download mode. If I go into TWRP the computer will recognize the phone is connected for real and actually show that it's plugged in, but I can't do anything useful from there. Factory resets and anything else I can think to do from TWRP don't seem to do anything. I even formatted the /data partition, but it hasn't had any effect. I guess this is what I get for getting ahead of myself and not thinking to do a simple backup before going any further, but what's done is done I guess. I've tried just about everything I can think of and I've been scouring the internet for hours hoping to find any new ideas to fix this phone. Any phone guys out there wanna spit ball some ideas for how to possibly unbrick this phone? [link] [comments]  |
| [Win 10] My Taskmanager says that I'm using up 91% of my RAM (8 GB) when I'm only using ~5 GB Posted: 29 Jul 2018 04:06 AM PDT As you can see in this screenshot (Apps sorted by RAM usage) https://i.imgur.com/HpVPj6b.png I'm using ~5 GB RAM of the 8 GB I have available (https://i.imgur.com/L8DeZdd.png). Do you know why it's clocking like that? I often experience huge lags and several seconds of delay in games and videos :/ [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2018 04:06 AM PDT So I stupidly decided to go into my BIOS setup and tinker around with some stuff, thinking that because I browse reddit all day I'm a tech expert. Anyway, I've enabled secure boot because I though "that looks cool", and now my pc won't start. I can't even enter bios to undo it, as my monitor reads "no source signal". Figured all I'd need is my keyboard, but now it just sits there. It's turned on, but I can't access anything. I've looked online to try and figure this out, but all the articles I've looked at relate to new hardware installations, and I've had this PC since 2013. Anybody able to save me? For reference, I have a Lenovo PC running Windows 8.1 [link] [comments]  |
| Why is my supposed to be "beast" PC under-performing so heavily? Posted: 29 Jul 2018 12:15 AM PDT BackgroundSo in February of this year I had some parts die out on my old build so I decided that I would start upgrading my PC and eventually it turned into me making an entirely new machine excluding a couple components. Everything has been working seemingly great up until recently when I decided to put it through it's first video render in Adobe Premiere. My CPU quickly got hot and my computer slowed down significantly. Adobe kept crashing and so did my computer so I decided to lower the clock speed on my CPU to try and get better temps and complete the render. I was shocked because I thought my computer should be able to crush renders but instead it struggled more than my old machine. The render locked up my computer and took hours. Also thinking about some of the gaming I've done on it, I'm not exactly crushing the frames like I was expecting either. I think the issue is the CPU. To be totally honest I may have goofed when installing the CPU+Thermal Paste+Cooling Tower, because I had to try a few times applying and installing it all. I was as gentle as possible but I did have to remove thermal paste a few times with ISO and then reapply it. I'm worried I damaged the chip or installed it improperly and that's why I'm getting these CPU issues. When I first setup the computer, I went into the BIOS and tried to use their automatic like overclock "wizard" thing and when I would try to boot with those settings I would get a blue screen. It was trying to change the clock speeds to 5.0GHz which was way too hot. I fiddled with it and found that I was getting decent temperatures @ 4.2GHz. On full load it would hit high 80's and some cores around 92 and higher, and idling temps were high 30's which is what I've had it set to since March. Since the issue I was having rendering last week, where I mentioned I lowered it, it's back to it's base clock speed. The Min temp for all cores is 31 and the Max is 65. It seems to be chilling around low 40's tho. MY BUILD
Used for 4K gaming, photo and video editing. Imagestests ran at clock speeds Idle temps - https://imgur.com/Y3fMtJF During geekbench test - https://imgur.com/alnHyer Geekbench score - https://imgur.com/JDajq0P 3D Mark Score - https://imgur.com/hlG75wJ The beast itself - https://imgur.com/OX5BwAK TLDRRenders are much slower than they should be, gaming isn't as smooth and from the benchmarks I've tried to grab so far, it's scoring low. I've put a lot of time, effort and money into this build and it would be a shame if one mistake of mine is causing it to under-perform. It's possible that the CPU is damage or bad heating/cooling. It seems to be throttling my GPU in games and other things. Thanks for reading and any help! Please let me know any tests I should run or screenshots to provide. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Jul 2018 05:23 PM PDT My build is a Cyberpower PC (Model GMA2800BST). But as I said my mother had a fit and unplugged it from the wall while it was still on, I plugged it back it to find everything is working yet nothing is showing up on my screen. I use an HDMI cable but I do have a VGA cable as well, I've tried both and they both don't work. I'm stumped and have no clue what to do. This has ruined my night and stressed me out beyond end. I have no clue what I'm doing and I'm in need of help, thank you to anyone who takes time to help. [link] [comments]  |
| PNY 256gb SD card not formatting... Posted: 28 Jul 2018 06:04 PM PDT I've tried to open it in MiniTool Partition Wizard; I create a new partition, and it says it was successful, but it remains unusable. No file system whatsoever. Tried using Diskpart in the Command Prompt, disabled auto mounting of drives, selected the disk, cleaned it, and attempted to create a primary partition.... "No usable free extent could be found". It's claiming insufficient space. The thing is empty! Not sure why I can't force this empty card to format. Any help is appreciated [link] [comments]  |
| Screen keeps shifting up and down continously Posted: 29 Jul 2018 12:02 AM PDT I have an acer AL1916W and my PC is running a Nvidia 1060 3gb version. This wasn't happening intially, started happening after 1 month or so. There is a thin white line on the bottom and another thin line on top that sort of warps the mouse pointer?screeen. then all of a sudden it starts flickering up and down continously. Heres the gif :- https://imgflip.com/gif/2ewege [link] [comments]  |
| Android 7.1.1 can't disable sync Posted: 29 Jul 2018 03:46 AM PDT Help How do I disable google sync such as contacts, calendar etc? Every single website states to go accounts-google- and disable it there but there I can only manually sync, there is nothing anywhere to DISABLE sync, no sliders, no options, nothing. The 3 dots just let me 'sync now' or remove account. https://i.imgur.com/yyFau1A.png edit: I found the solution. YOu have to go to accounts, and without going onto google or anything tap the dots, tick 'auto-sync data' and only then are there sliders to turn sync off. after that I went to google and turned sync off via sliders and then in accounts unticked 'auto-sync data' again and then finally the no-sync option is selected everywhere, such as on my screen for DOCS except for everything. [link] [comments]  |
| PC crashing to grey screen under stress Posted: 28 Jul 2018 11:57 PM PDT CPU: i5-4690k GPU: AMD R9 280 Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI PSU: 600w Coolmax 80plus OS: Windows 10 All parts are roughly 3 years old Yesterday I was playing Overwatch (about 2 hours in) when my screen went grey with black vertical lines with no sound or mouse movement, forcing me to power off. PC had been slow lately, primarily with opening files or loading into games but no actual FPS lag in games. I started Overwatch back up and tried again this time monitoring my temps, and my PC instantly crashed when I found a game. CPU temp was 68, and GPU temp was 65. Both had spikes to up to 75 prior to crashing. I went to sleep, woke up and my PC wouldn't start. My monitor says no signal, and my keyboard lights turn off. Mouse stays on. I've tried other ports, doesn't make a difference. I got into my BIOS and set to optimized defaults (which I had done the day before as well), and when I exited BIOS my PC was able to start up although very slowly. All fans appear to be working but GPU fans aren't spinning, but that's maybe because there's no stress. I've only witnessed 1 GPU fan spinning but haven't watched it while under stress yet since that will crash my PC. Things I've tried... • Updating display driver. Crashed again so I uninstalled display drivers with DDU in safe mode, and reinstalling to prior versions • Data Lifeguard diagnostics tool on my hdd • Applying new thermal paste to CPU cooler • Upgrading to Windows 10 since it crashed the first time on 8.1 • Virus scan [link] [comments]  |
| Confused about what drivers to install [Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming] Posted: 29 Jul 2018 03:42 AM PDT I'm clean installing my PC, but when I downloaded the latest LAN driver, executed the exe file, nothing happened. The latest LAN driver is only 2.9MB, where the version before that is 158MB, and version before that is 317MB, and the version before that is 147MB. I think the last time I installed the LAN driver, it was the 2nd newest driver which is 158MB. I'm just confused on why nothing happens when I try to install the latest 2.9MB driver. I'm also confused about the Audio driver. Latest version is 147MB, version before that is 645MB, version before that is 642MB, and version before that is 466MB. I installed the latest driver (147MB) without issues, but noticed that I'm missing the applications in my taskbar icons. More specific the Realtek, and Sonic applications. What driver do I actually install? Several of them? All of them from oldest to latest? Non of them seems to be a "all in one" but just a part improvement of the version before that, that kinda requires you to install the version before so you have the basic driver/application. Example, 3rd newest Audio version (642MB) mentions Realtek, and Sonic application. The 2nd newest driver (645MB) only mentions Realtek, where the latest (147MB) only mentions Realtek improvements that won't actually install Realtek, nor Sonic application. [link] [comments]  |
| Best Options for Storing Movies? Posted: 29 Jul 2018 03:41 AM PDT I have owned a Synology 1815+ for 3 1/2 years now. I have eight 6 TB WD Red hard drives. I have now ran out of space. I am aware that there are extensions I can add to my Diskstation. However, with how much technology continues to advance, is there something better out there? At Costco the other day, I bought a 4 TB portable drive for $100 that was light and was smaller than my hand. If I end up upgrading to something less bulky, and perhaps more affordable, I wonder the best options for transferring all of that data as well. Also, this issue is not urgent, so perhaps if there is something that is coming out or dropping in price within the next year or two that I should wait for, that is also helpful information for me. EDIT: I should also note that I prefer to still have the option of streaming movies from where I am storing them from. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2018 03:31 AM PDT I moved and since then I have been unable to log onto my RasPlex. I figured part of it was terrible wifi reception, so I finally ended up buying Google Wifi (WHICH IS AMAZING). I have a switch (Linksys ) that is hard wired to my Google device. Connected to that is my Xbox One, which now works great. I also have my smart TV hard wired to the switch and it works well now. However, for whatever reason, I cannot figured out my Rasplex... I own the 1815+ Synology Diskstation. It has 4 ethernet ports in the back and I am assuming they all work the same. I have one of them connected directly to my switch. One of the other Synology ports is connected to my Raspberry Pi 2. My Rasberry Pi 2 is then connected directly to my TV via HDMI. I am now able to find my Synology device via find.synology.com and I had a bunch of updates. What suggestions do you have to try to get logged in to RasPlex? When I try to on my TV, the wheel just keeps spinning and spinning and won't stop, and it never provides me with the pin code I need. [link] [comments]  |
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