Home Networking Following another routers channel? |
- Following another routers channel?
- Help me argue for FTTH
- ad block from my router?
- Can I add a switch in an existing network?
- QNAP enters the 10Gigabit networking game
- Wiring a house for beyond gigabit speeds?
- YouTube videos won't play over WiFi
- PoE switch having trouble with cameras
- Is repeater mode on Hootoo Tripmate TM05 possible?
- Switching to a simple Wi-Fi home network. Second opinions?
- Fast internet speeds, but delay in initially connecting to a website.
- Help me decide on cat 5e or cat 6
- Going VPN on router
- Internet connection 1 bar
- ASUS AC68u Stuck (Aimesh Node)
- I think upgrading my home network to an Ubiquiti router + UniFi APs is my best course of action, but you tell me. Is this a solid plan for my needs? Or: If you were overhauling my network, what would you do? (Additional info inside).
- Running Ethernet in a semi-older home
- Transferring emails from Comcast to AT&T - Connectivity Issues
- MikroTik headache
- Home is prewired for Ethernet need help
- Help with the WAP300N
- Upgrade required to replace heavy use home network with about 50 WiFi clients and complicated setup using power lines and Apple airport express. Suggestions most welcome!
- Wiring internet to all pre-wired home ethernet drops with a firewall in between
- Home network question about VLans Sonos/Ip Cam traffic seperation from network
- Create virtual server share folder
| Following another routers channel? Posted: 31 Mar 2018 04:58 PM PDT I have been noticing that a particular network has been following mine. I don't use the 2.4ghz only the 5ghz and when I go to channel 161 this network will show up on channel 161 as well. Go to 36 there it is a few moments later now at first I was just thinking this was the router auto switching to the best channel as that's what I was using the WiFiAnalyzer for. But I recently bought my own router instead of using my ISPs. Before I had my isp turn the 5ghz network off while I wait for my modem I switched my network to the worst channel and the Network followed mine again... Now with it off I didn't really concern myself with it since i was customizing my own networks. But it's been a day and that network is still on that same channel it hasn't attempted to switch even once... I live in a smallish apt complex with maybe 4 apt per floor with 3 floors so there's networks on every channel... Could they have been following my old router and what can I do if they start following my new one? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Mar 2018 03:44 PM PDT The situation is the following: I life in an apartment building in Austria with 36 flats. Internet is pretty bad (DSL max. 16 Mbit/s) and during evening times dropping to as low as 2 Mbit/s. So I investigated on options around our building. Communicating with the cable network operator they told me there is cable TV with coaxial cable and optical fiber in the street in front of the building. The distribution cabinet for the coaxial cable is literally 10m from the building. They told me digging and installation to the basement would be about ~5000€. Second thing is that the electrical wiring throughout the building is very old and has to be redone completely in the next couple of years. Including to install new fuse boxes and cable conduit in the stairwell. This would be the perfect opportunity to install optical fiber (or at least empty conduit) as well. We have a meeting of all apartment owners in two weeks and I want to suggest this to them. About half of the owners are old people who use the internet very rarely or never. So what are arguments for doing this? Can someone tell me how it will affect the value of the apartments? I think it will be hard to argue that you need it for streaming TV, working from your home office and so on, if your opponent has no idea what "streaming" means. Thanks for reading and helping fellow redditor out. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Mar 2018 01:43 PM PDT Is there any way to block ads using just my router? I have an archer TP-Link AC1750. [link] [comments]  |
| Can I add a switch in an existing network? Posted: 31 Mar 2018 01:20 PM PDT Hey, I just set up a new computer in a room where there is only one ethernet cable coming in from the main router and it's plugged in to an existing machine. Can I add a switch in that room and hook up each machine to that switch? Or if I'm completely wrong, what would be a great solution to this? [link] [comments]  |
| QNAP enters the 10Gigabit networking game Posted: 31 Mar 2018 05:00 AM PDT |
| Wiring a house for beyond gigabit speeds? Posted: 31 Mar 2018 03:01 PM PDT OK, so this is probably way overkill and maybe a stupid question. Let's say I have a network closet in my basement of a three story with two offices and two media areas. I was thinking about looking into higher speed network service to those areas since they are the ones that I could see getting bandwidth heavy. Something like OM3. I see people saying just do conduit. Fair enough. But the walls are down now... What would make sense? Run two cat6s and just aggregate them on each end? Or is there a way to run SFP+ everywhere? Not sure what the distance limitations are or if you can in-wall wire the stuff. [link] [comments]  |
| YouTube videos won't play over WiFi Posted: 31 Mar 2018 07:55 PM PDT This just started happening a few days ago. My ISP is Charter, and I haven't made any changes to my home networking setup (My router is an ER-X) so I don't know what could be causing this issue. When I load over cellular on my iPhone videos will load but as soon as I switch back to WiFi nothing loads again. I also tried over a wired connection with my desktop and Apple TV which have produced the same results. Does anyone know why something like this would happen? [link] [comments]  |
| PoE switch having trouble with cameras Posted: 31 Mar 2018 04:07 PM PDT So I've been trying to sort out a poor man's camera security system previously and I dove in and bought the Netgear 8-port PoE switch. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting the cameras to show an image. If I plug in one camera and power cycle the switch, I can successfully see the IP of the camera in my router and I can see the image in VLC and Motioneye using an rtsp stream. However, as soon as I plug-in a second camera, neither will show an image in VLC nor motioneye, but I can see the IPs in my router. I've tried power cycling the switch and no dice. I don't have anything else plugged into the switch except to the router. I'm using the cameras from the QCam mentioned in the previous post above, so they worked (at least with the P.O.S. Qcam NVR). I do see that the power brick for the NVR is 48V at 1.87A output, while the power brick for this switch is 48V at 1.25A. So I'm wondering if it is an amperage problem, but I would expect more than 2 cameras to work. Any ideas? I chucked out the box to this switch after trying one camera because I thought it worked, so I'm not sure I can return it to Amazon (but I might be willing to sell it, it seems to work fine other than this issue) and I'm hesitant to drop another $70 to get another switch. So I'm pleading to the hive mind. [link] [comments]  |
| Is repeater mode on Hootoo Tripmate TM05 possible? Posted: 31 Mar 2018 07:49 PM PDT I don't normally do this but I noticed a good amount of people on Amazon review claiming their success with repeater mode so I purchased it without further research. So after struggling for hours and failing to get it in repeater, I'm beginning to wonder whether those reviewers actually meant success with bridge rather than repeater. However, one reviewer mentioned repeater mode was enabled only after a specific firmware update so it seems possible repeater mode was disabled from factory, especially since they sell a separate line of repeaters. Unfortunately, I'm having no luck tracking this firmware down on google and now I'm wondering if those Amazon reviewers are actually way more advanced than I am hacking the firmware themselves. [link] [comments]  |
| Switching to a simple Wi-Fi home network. Second opinions? Posted: 31 Mar 2018 01:30 PM PDT (It's gotta be mostly wi-fi since I can't install ethernet anywhere and the only coax cable is connected to the modem.) I'll be upgrading to 100 or 150 mbps soon and my current setup sucks. I wanted to upgrade to something quality that'll last but I don't know much about networking aside from what I researched for an hour or two. I assume the following (and a modem) is enough? (The only ethernet connection is the modem so the router should be fine.)
Modem > Router > WAP should be fine? [link] [comments]  |
| Fast internet speeds, but delay in initially connecting to a website. Posted: 31 Mar 2018 03:31 PM PDT I recently switched from 2.4ghz Wifi to a hardwired ethernet connection. I am getting download speeds of ~250mbps, but whenever I am browsing websites, there is always a 1-3 second delay before the website will start to load. If I switch back to Wifi, there is no initial delay, but my speeds are around 50mbps instead of 250. I've factory reset my router and modems, run through most of the standard IP resets suggested online, but can't seem to fix the problem. [link] [comments]  |
| Help me decide on cat 5e or cat 6 Posted: 31 Mar 2018 07:10 PM PDT Going to be placing an order on Wednesday for some stuff to start networking my home. Is it worth me getting a box of 1000' of cat 5e for 59.99 Canadian on Amazon or pay 68 Canadian for 500' cat 6. My gut says the cat 5e, but will I regret it? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Mar 2018 07:00 PM PDT New York State, U.S. I'm quite new to networking and I was wondering whether I could get some suggestion about setting up a VPN on a router or whether this sureddit suggests such actions. I am considering using Linksys WRT AC3200 router and I have fibre optics internet. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Mar 2018 06:54 PM PDT Hey! I just installed a new router and my 2.4ghz connection is reaching my room just fine with a 4-5 bar but my 5ghz connection is on a 1 bar when I connect to it. Any suggestions to try and fix this would be greatly appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| ASUS AC68u Stuck (Aimesh Node) Posted: 31 Mar 2018 06:17 PM PDT I've been at this for 4 hours ... please help I have a TM-1900 that was flashed over to the stock AC68U firmware a couple years ago. It was part of a Aimesh system acting as a Node I went to do the firmware update on the Aimesh router (node was listed on the firmware page); and when everything came back up after the update, the node could not be found. I attempted to reset the node and reconnect; no luck ... the Aimesh router won't find it I attempted to restore the Firmware on the node to the previous version and was only able to accomplish it using the Rescue Mode Following reverting the firmware back one version the Aimesh GUI is missing all together. It was there before ... so I know it can/ will work. Attempted to then flash MerlinWRT (which I had on the router previously) ... and it won't take, no matter what I do. In addition I am getting some new Wizard / Welcome screen that I have never seen before. I believe it is new with the newest firmware; so somehow (even though it says I downgraded my firmware) ... It actually did not https://i.imgur.com/W8vrUXu.jpg Any idea's? I am all out of them ... [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Mar 2018 11:16 AM PDT Recently I've been less than thrilled my home network setup. I've had issues with throughput on the wired LAN (some ghost-in-the-machine issue I'm working on isolating results in my LAN speeds drifting down to 1/8th their regular speed while the Wi-Fi is totally unaffected). The router requires rebooting more often than I'd like (probably every 3-4 weeks I have to reboot the router to fix some phantom issue or another). Even when things are running relatively smoothly, I'm not super impressed with it. Honestly the only good thing I can say about my current setup is that the Wi-Fi coverage of my router is good and the speeds (when using a modern device like an iPhone 8) are really solid. My broadband connection is 65 Mbps and my Wi-Fi stuff can speed test out to about 55-60 Mbps. At any rate, here's my setup. I'm including the age of the product and links to any products in case anyone is unfamiliar with them. Cable Modem: Cisco DPC3010 (age unknown, provided by cable company 2 years ago) Router/AP combo: D-Link DIR-890L (3 years old) Custom Router Firmware: Kong's DD-WRT build, DD-WRT v3.0-r33525M kongac (10/16/17) [Note: I know the firmware build is slightly out of date from Kong's release schedule. I updated it to deal with the whole KRACK vulnerability and had to roll back because of some major issue that is currently escaping my recollection.] Main Switch: TrendNet TEG-S80g 8 port unmanaged gigabit switch (7 years old) Secondary Switches: TP-Link TLSG1005 5-port gigabit switch, D-Link GO-SW-5E 5-port fast ethernet switch (2 years old). All the cabling is CAT5E. Here's the layout of the physical network including the location of the switches and what is connected to them: -Cable Modem --D-Link Router/AP Combo ---- Philips Hue Bridge ---- Trendnet 8 Port Gigabit Switch ------ Desktop PC #1 ------ Desktop PC #2 ------ SuperMicro Home Server (Only 1 NIC used) ------ Old Home Server ------ ObiHai Voice-IP Gateway ------ TP-Link 5-port Gigabit Switch (Media Center) --------- Synology NAS (temporary location, plan on relocating, only 1 NIC used) --------- Chromecast Ultra --------- Xbox --------- Steam Link ------ D-Link 5 Port Fast Ethernet Switch (Bedroom) --------- Steam Link --------- Samsung Smart TV In addition to the physical network, there's a bunch of Wi-Fi stuff including, but not limited to: two wireless printers, multiple Echo speakers, Chromecasts, laptops, smartphones, a couple smart TVs, and some Wi-Fi security cameras. At minimum here's what I think a solid plan would be: Replace the D-Link routing functions with an Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite but keep the D-Link model as an AP. Upgrade the switch to a higher port model like a 16 or 24 port unit (I'm open to suggestions here but it doesn't seem like there's a huge difference among models in the unmanaged category... although it might be nice to get a PoE model for PoE access points and security cameras) Ideally: Perform the above changes (replace routing functions and upgrade the switch) Place 1-2 UniFi Pro APs in the house (likely a ground floor and upstairs placement) Possibly either re-run the CAT 5E cable as 6E or, at minimum, run more lines so I'm not using so many secondary switches. So how does that plan sound? I've never used the Ubiquiti platform before but I'm not afraid to make stuff a project and learn (I'm a long time DD-WRT user and, because I like pain, I use FreeNAS as the platform for my home server). [link] [comments]  |
| Running Ethernet in a semi-older home Posted: 31 Mar 2018 10:59 AM PDT Hi all! Long time lurker, first time poster with a (probably ridiculously basic) question: For a while, I've been looking to get Ethernet to the second-story of my house (built circa 1950? not 100% sure on that part) as a sort-of fun project. I've tried going through airvents (never really comfortable with this idea, so I'm glad it didn't work out). I don't have a perfect direct line-of-sight from the basement to the second-story, so my question is this: what other options would I have for getting Ethernet up two floors, while doing little to no property damage? I've considered going up the side of the house (i.e., out of the basement and along the side of the house) and patching in around the holes. I'm guessing inside the walls is a no-go as there are most likely cross beams. Have you ever had a similar situation? If so, what did you do to ultimately resolve it? Thanks for any/all advice! [link] [comments]  |
| Transferring emails from Comcast to AT&T - Connectivity Issues Posted: 31 Mar 2018 02:39 PM PDT My family is currently on an X1 Preferred Triple Play package for Voice, Internet, and Cable TV. Our voice and cable have always been fine, but for about 2 years now we've been struggling with connectivity issues. We've replaced every cable (even the one coming in from the street), the modem, and the router with updated versions. Around this time last year, we had an issue where our devices could "connect" to the internet, but couldn't load anything. We always had full bars, but webpages would not load. After speaking with Comcast and checking our router and modem information, we determined that our power levels were crazy out of whack, and once Comcast adjusted them, everything seemed to go back to normal. Unfortunately, this issue has come up again. My first thought was to check the power levels and our SNR, but they are within the appropriate range. I don't know a whole lot about networking, but everything at least seems to be alright on our end. I've talked with Comcast multiple times, but all they've said is to check that everything's plugged in, reset the modem, etc. Basic stuff. AT&T Fiber is the only other option available in my area, and it would cost almost the same as what we're paying now (for internet). My grandfather has all of his business emails connected through Comcast (i.e. blahblah@comcast.net). Because of this, he's afraid that switching to AT&T will lose his emails and contacts. Is there something we can do about this? If we were to switch, would it be a huge hassle to get emails (and contacts) moved over? What's the best way to go about fixing this issue? I know this is a huge post, I'm sorry. I'm just a college student trying to solve the family's connection issues. Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Mar 2018 02:04 AM PDT My current setup is ISP optic modem --> RB2011UiAS-IN --> UniFi AP-AC-LR. The way I had always set it up to work is that the MikroTik was connected to the AP, routed traffic to my desktop PC via ethernet & had its antennas disabled. This morning, I decided to update RouterOS, and somehow everything borked. OK, so I wasn't exactly sure how that happened, but I had a backup config file from a time where my RB was still used as an AP. I loaded it up & everything seemed to work fine, but in this config, the MikroTik is set up as a Home AP. My desktop PC has Internet access, the UniFi transmits successfully, however, the MikroTik is also functioning as an AP. What I want to do is to stop the MikroTik from transmitting its Wi-Fi signal. If I disable the wireless interface, the UniFi AP still works, but I lose connectivity to my desktop. How do I set it up so that everything functions as it did before the update? I'm not exactly well-versed in MikroTik configuration, so it might be something simple that I'm missing. Edit: Solved after rolling back RouterOS. [link] [comments]  |
| Home is prewired for Ethernet need help Posted: 30 Mar 2018 11:30 PM PDT So I moved into a new home and it is prewired for Ethernet. With a port in every bedroom and living room. However I do not know were to connect the modem to to have internet on all of the ports. I have a control panel and I'd assume I'd need a switch and I have a 1 gig managed switch id like to use. But im not 100 percent Shure on how to install it. Below are pics of Panel and ports in rooms. Gold will be awared to the person who helps the most.
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| Posted: 31 Mar 2018 07:14 AM PDT Hello everyone. My house use to be configured as such: We have a router in the basement that serves the main router on the first floor (the office). That router is a Linksys EA69000 on the latest firmware supported (1.1.43.182871). This router has one ethernet port used for a single computer in the office as well as a ethernet port used for a cable that climbs to the third floor (the attic). The first floor router also broadcasts a wifi network (Network 1). Up in the attic, the cable comes into the first switch. The switch has four outs: one into a docking station for a laptop, one into a desktop computer, one into the Linksys WAP300N, and one that goes into a second switch. The second switch has three outs: Two go across the attic to a TV and another device (Xbox or Apple TV), the third output goes back down another pipe into the second floor and out into a room where it is connected to a computer. The Linksys WAP300N was configured to be broadcasting a wifi network (Network 2). Network 2 had a separate SSID than Network 1 and so if you were to travel to floor two or three, Network 2 would be stronger and preferred, so you would have to switch from Network 1. Network 1 was mainly used for the first floor. Now this worked fine, but I got sick of having to reconnect to wifi every time I switched 1st/2nd floor. I started researching the extender we have, the WAP300N, to act as an "extender" to the current first floor network. My goal is to have "Network 1" be broadcast all throughout the house, without having to reconnect when I move floors. I saw posts saying that I should configure the network on the WAP300N the same as Network 1 except on a different channel. This is the functionality I want, but unfortunately the signal of Network 1 still reaches the 3rd floor, but is terrible. So my devices will stay on the worse network and not automatically switch even though I'm in a prime spot for Network 2. Since I have an ethernet connection on the third floor, I can plug in the WAP300N in directly. There are 4 modes: Access Point, Wireless Media Connector, Wireless Range Extender, and Wireless Bridge. Access Point uses the the ethernet connection, but broadcasts a different network while Range extender simply repeats the wireless signal without ethernet input. How can I have this WAP300N as an access point (takes in ethernet) but then "repeats" the already configured "Network 1"? Is it possible? EDIT: I forgot to say that I tried Wireless Protected Setup (both routers support it), but it does not work. I tried it both ways (putting the WAP pin in on the main router and the main routers pin on the WAP) but neither works. I simply just "searches for the client device" forever or cannot find it. It's on the network, since I can see it connected on my main router and I can also go to the web interface on it over Network 1, but they still cannot find each other. The WAP also has this "Wireless Network Site Survey" which should allow you to pick a network, but that also hangs and never loads. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Mar 2018 10:23 AM PDT Hi! Currently my internet enters the house in a bedroom: Bedroom (ISP stock router - which is quite good but not enough range to work in the living room) serving 10 WiFi clients (SSID 1) ----> tp-link powerline 500Mbps ------------- bedroom to living room via mains ----> tp-link powerline 500Mbps ----> airport express ( + Netgear 4 port switch) serving 40+ clients mainly WiFi (SSID 2) Congestion seems an issue and I might wire in my Nvidia shield to the switch to help with 4k streams. I feel I should upgrade, but don't really want to go Mesh. There's a lot of home automation and Hue lights involved. Obviously most LAN/WAN activities are served from the living room. I'm tempted to get a Netgear x4s and replace the airport express or should I put that in the bedroom and use an EX7500 repeater in the living room? Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Wiring internet to all pre-wired home ethernet drops with a firewall in between Posted: 31 Mar 2018 10:20 AM PDT Quick background: Recently was fortunate enough to get my Net+ through my employer and I figured now is a good time to start building my home network. Instead of using the single ethernet drop that Verizon wired when they set up my internet I'd like to split the connection out to every drop in the house while adding a physical device (pfSense router) between the modem and the lines out to the ethernet drops. Here is a picture of my little cabinet: https://imgur.com/a/shwAd I'd like to get some advice on doing this the right way. In my head I see it going like this: -Line from the modem (ONT) goes into the pfSense device -Line out from pfSense device into a simple switch -Switch sends internet into each of those splayed out RJ-45 cables Is this the best way to do this? Additionally, what exactly is that device called that accepts the ethernet wires individually? [link] [comments]  |
| Home network question about VLans Sonos/Ip Cam traffic seperation from network Posted: 31 Mar 2018 09:35 AM PDT Hey guys I am about to wire my new home my question has to do with how to keep seperate these different items I have from bogging down my network of computers/other devices. I have 16 ip cameras, 24 sonos connects, 4 Ubiquiti AP. Would I hook them up to their own unmanaged switches to keep their traffic from effecting my home networks bandwidth/traffic? Or would I get a large 48 port Managed switch and use VLANS to seperate them. Will the VLANs be enough to stop the sonos mesh network from interfering with my other computers and devices on the network? Any help or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Create virtual server share folder Posted: 31 Mar 2018 08:59 AM PDT Hi, I'm creating a program that runs off several network shares at uni but I need to be able to work on the code while at home and need to recreate the environment. I was wondering if there's any straightforward way to create a virtual server share folder? For example: //share1/myprograms/ //share2/myapps/ The only way I can think of to do this at the moment is to install 2 virtual machines (Windows 10) on my laptop using VirtualBox, name the virtual machines "share1" and "share2", and then share a folder called "myprograms" on the share1 virtual machine and a folder called "myapps" on the share2 machine. That seems quite a lengthy way to do it though. Any ideas? [link] [comments]  |
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