Should I boot up my son's brand new pre-built gaming PC before Christmas to ensure he didn't get a lemon? |
- Should I boot up my son's brand new pre-built gaming PC before Christmas to ensure he didn't get a lemon?
- Should i repaste my 6/7 (no clue which of the 2) year old gpu
- Energy efficient computer build for Vanlifer?
- I’ve been using my pc a bit longer than a year and just realized it’s been probably inderperforming
- What is the cheapest GPU that is decently better than the APU of a 5600g?
- Question: Can I move an SSD from one motherboard to another?
- 6900 xt or 3080 ?
- Error code 02 on X570-E with ryzen 9 5900x
- 240hz 1080p vs 144hz 1440p
- Scratched the back of my motherboard while installing CPU cooler
- Any bottlenecks or problems stand out to you?
- Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Paste and Thermal Pad Replacement, Temperature and Overclocking Improvements
- RAM Compatibility Issues
- I Think I've Made A Terrible Mistake (ASUS TUF VG27BQ)
- White build. Can't decide Gigabyte B550 + 5800x vs Gigabyte Z690 + 12600k
- How to connect radiator fans.
| Posted: 05 Dec 2021 10:02 AM PST Still in the box, unopened. I'd hate for him to be disappointed. Just trying to ensure Christmas morning goes smoothly. Appreciate any input. [link] [comments] |
| Should i repaste my 6/7 (no clue which of the 2) year old gpu Posted: 05 Dec 2021 10:02 AM PST I have an gtx 960 4gb. Which im thinking of repasting but should i? [link] [comments] |
| Energy efficient computer build for Vanlifer? Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:30 PM PST Hey there! I'm a full time Vanlifer living in a van 24/7 I'm doing some upgrades to my 2015 Sprinter van and I've decided to build a desk an a designated PC area. My question to you guys is what type of equipment I could use and still be energy efficient. I'm working with 600ah worth of battery power. I have thought about running a direct 12v current PC but modern motherboards say no. Any price specs. [link] [comments] |
| I’ve been using my pc a bit longer than a year and just realized it’s been probably inderperforming Posted: 05 Dec 2021 09:31 AM PST So my problem is that i managed to get a Gigabyte 3080 around a month after the launch of the 30 series and built my first completely new PC. I have Asus Rog Maximus xii motherboard, an i9 10900k and 32 gb Corsair Vengeance ram with this GPU. I've been using this PC without any problems but the last few days i realized i've been probably getting way to little fps on games for this pc. Even on a basic game like Valorant while i'm playing it on 1920x1080 on low settings it struggles to give me more than a stable 240 fps, it goes up and down between 210-280 and i am pretty sure people get around my fps with waay worse pcs, and when i did a userbenchmark test my pc is in the bottom 30 percentile. I did no overclocking except the XMP settings. I'm not the biggest expert so i really could use some help understanding if this is normal or there are some stuff i can do to improve? I'll be very thankful for any help i'll get [link] [comments] |
| What is the cheapest GPU that is decently better than the APU of a 5600g? Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:07 PM PST |
| Question: Can I move an SSD from one motherboard to another? Posted: 05 Dec 2021 12:36 PM PST I recently bought a pc with a 1TB NVME SSD for a boot drive to replace my prebuilt with an HDD which also has windows 10 on it. The only issue with this PC is that it is in an ITX case and I personally don't like ITX PC so I bought a new case and motherboard. I was wondering if 1) I can move the SSD with windows 10 on it to the new motherboard and 2) how can I use the HDD from my old PC in this new rig? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:17 PM PST Out of sheer curiosity, if i wanted to stream, which GPU would be the better option ? I've heard that NVIDIA would be the go to because NVENC and DLSS but does any of those GPU matter if i am running a 5900x ? Also does any of those GPU matters when rendering videos with AE/PR pro ? [link] [comments] |
| Error code 02 on X570-E with ryzen 9 5900x Posted: 05 Dec 2021 10:22 AM PST Hey, I just built my new pc and I have an error code 02 on the motherboard but nothing shows up on the monitor. Please help me. I tried to flash the BIOS but it takes a while is it normal ? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 05 Dec 2021 11:25 AM PST Hey guys, quick question: I currently have a 1080p 144hz monitor, and I´m thinking about upgrading for Christmas. My build right now consists of a 16 GB of ram, Ryzen 5 3600 and a RTX 2060 super. The two monitors are only $20 apart, with the 244hz 1080p being more expensive. If I get the 244hz, will I be able to run most games at that refresh rate (i currently play CS:GO, valorant, minecraft, and osu!)? Thanks for the help! | ps: I am probally going to upgrade my pc next year, so I want to get something that would work for a better pc [link] [comments] |
| Scratched the back of my motherboard while installing CPU cooler Posted: 05 Dec 2021 12:37 PM PST Title says it all really, AM4 backplate got stuck and the plastic tip rubbed hard against the motherboard. Will it be okay? [link] [comments] |
| Any bottlenecks or problems stand out to you? Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:29 PM PST Looking to buy a computer, found one but dont really know anything about computers. Does this setup sound good? Processor AMD Ryzen 5, 5600G Number of cores: 6 pcs Processor clock speed: 3.9 Ghz Processor clock speed with acceleration: 4.4 Ghz Graphics The amount of graphics memory: 12 Gb Video card (model)GeForce RTX 3060 Separate graphics memoryGDDR6 RAM 2x8 Gb 400W PSU. I've heard thats low but they wouldnt sell a computer that wouldnt work, tho Any problems stand out to you or yall think im good? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:28 PM PST I originally posted this on Gigabyte's Reddit page, but I figured it would be good to put a copy here as well, as a lot more people are active on this page in comparison to Gigabyte's. As it seems that I can't attach pictures in this post, I'll link to the original post on Gigabyte's Reddit page. https://www.reddit.com/r/gigabytegaming/comments/r9ab0z/gigabyte_aorus_gtx_1080_ti_paste_and_thermal_pad/. Hope this helps! IF YOU JUST WANT THE THERMAL PAD THICKNESSES AND OVERCLOCKING RESULTS, PLEASE SKIP DOWN IN THE POST UNTIL YOU REACH THE LINE THAT READS "THERMAL PAD THICKNESS" IN BOLD. THERE ARE ATTACHED PICTURES FOR REFERENCE. I had been meaning to replace the thermal paste and thermal pads for my graphics card for a while now. I've had the card for over 4 years now, and I figured that they had pretty well dried up at this point. So, I decided to try and scour the internet to find instructions for how to complete this task. Much to my dismay, nobody had any real answers. Looking through many different forums and blog sites proved fruitless. Youtube didn't hold many answers. Gamers Nexus did a teardown of a card similar to mine, but it was the Xtreme version of the Aorus 1080 Ti, and they didn't include any kind of thermal pad measurements. So, the task of finding out what thermal pads to use was set squarely upon my shoulders. After 150 dollars worth of various thicknesses of thermal pads, as well as the better part of 7-8 hours of work, I have found a solution! The thermal pads I procured were all purchased from Newegg, and consisted of Qnplum QMG138's in 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, and 3mm thicknesses, as well as a small section of 0.5mm thermal pad from the brand Iceberg, just to be sure I had my bases covered. Be aware that the text on the Qnplum listing DOES NOT match the actual area of the pad. For example, I thought I had purchased a 40mm x 120mm section of 2mm thick thermal pad, as that is what the text in the listing said. However, the picture provided with that particular page ARE correct. The picture showed a 120mm x 120mm section, and that is what I received. (This was accurate at the time of purchasing, but I cannot comment as to whether or not that is true now). That aside, I chose Qnplum because they listed one of the highest thermal conductivity rating (assuming their numbers are accurate), and one of the highest customer rating, of any thermal pad on Newegg that still shipped from the United States. However, they did not have any 0.5 mm pads in stock in the U.S., so I ordered the Iceberg thermal pad in its place. I received the package a few days later, much sooner than I was expecting. Considering this was the week before Black Friday, I was surprised that the package arrived sooner than initially anticipated. It was when I opened the package that I discovered the discrepancy between the picture on listing and the text on the same page in regards to the size of the thermal pads. I certainly wasn't upset that I received more product for my money than I thought I would, but I noted it for future reference. One thing to keep in mind about the Qnplum packaging: it is not made of rigid cardboard. It is more or less a sealed cardboard sleeve around a plastic bag that contains the pads themselves. This being the case, it is very easy for it to get compressed during shipping. I noted that the edges of the Qnplum thermal pads were definitely thinner than the center of the pads, decreasing the amount of usable area. I must also mention, with them being packaged this way, it is also possible that the entire pad was thinner than advertised. I had no way of fully confirming the thickness of the various pads, as I do not have a set of calipers, so I'm just going off of the labels on the package. With there being a large amount of material for every pad thickness, there was still enough usable material to finish the job. As an aside, the Iceberg thermal pad came in packaging that acted more like a box and less like a sleeve, so if you want to maximize the amount of usable thermal pad, get something with packaging that doesn't get squished as easily. Teardown Black Friday was really the first day that I was able to work on the card, so that's when I set aside an afternoon to work on it. As far as the initial teardown, it is pretty much identical to the Gamers Nexus teardown of the Aorus Xtreme (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCBzhZlzFoE&t=448s). Just remove all of the visible screws from the backplate, and the backplate, along with the PCB, will come free of the heatsink. Be aware that there are 4 cables that are plugged into the PCB (One of the cables is connected to a header that is right next to another header. On my model, the cable went to the "lower" of the two headers, i.e. the one closer to the HDMI port on the rear of the board). I would assume that 3 are for the fans, and one is for the LEDs built into the heatsink shroud. These will need to be disconnected before you can completely free the heatsink from the board. However, from this point, the teardown is slightly different from the Xtreme card. In the GN video, the copper piece shown nestled amongst the backplate of the card is separate from the backplate itself. However, in the case of the non-Xtreme version, that copper piece is affixed to the backplate itself by a what appear to be a couple of screws, from the underside of the backplate. I didn't bother removing these screws, as I didn't see a point in doing so. However, before you could even access those screws or the thermal pads between the backplate and the PCB, you have to take off the backplate itself. In the GN video, the Xtreme card has 6 screws affixing the PCB to the backplate. On the non-Xtreme version of the card, there are only 4, located more or less toward the corners of the PCB. I'm assuming this is because the Xtreme board would need the extra support offered by the 2 extra screws near the GPU itself, as that large copper piece on the back of the card is not connected to the backplate at all. If they didn't attach the backplate to the card next to the socket, I'm guessing that there would have been too much flex in the backplate, and thus the PCB. Which would defeat one of the main purposes of having a backplate in the first place. But, I digress. The heatsink on the Xtreme and the non-Xtreme versions of the card appear to be pretty much identical. The thermal pads all appear to be the same thicknesses as the ones in the video, and they appear to be located in the same spots (Shown in attached picture). I'll come back to the specifics of all of the pads on this card later in the post. On my card, as was to be expected, the thermal paste was extremely dry. However, there was thermal paste not only on the GPU die itself, but on the actual metal "frame" around it (Shown in linked picture). Which is a complete waste of thermal paste, but I don't think it was doing any harm. I've just never seen that much paste in any teardown that I have watched. The thermal pads were still malleable, much to my surprise. Despite that being the case, to ensure the best thermal transfer, I put on the new pads. I would suggest you do the same, as even if the pads still appear to be in good shape, there is no guarantee that they are still as thermally conductive as they once were. Additionally, getting the components on the board to properly contact pads that have already had indentations pressed into them may not be a sure thing. Now, on to the backplate. After you remove the 4 screws holding on the backplate, you can pull it free from the PCB (shown in attached picture). The pads on the backplate all appear to be completely differently shaped than the ones in the GN video. There is a rather frustratingly-shaped piece of thermal pad contacting the chunk of copper that is connected to the backplate. It is more or less a square with 2 rectangular holes cut in it. This was probably the most fiddly pad to cut properly. So, be sure to take careful measurements when you create a replacement for this pad. It could mean a lot of wasted material if you don't. The other pads aren't too much of a pain to cut, but I still took careful measurements of them, and I would advise you do the same. Now, onto the thermal pad thicknesses! THERMAL PAD THICKNESS AND OVERCLOCKING After hours of cutting small test pieces of thermal pads, applying them to their designated surface, and tightening down whatever piece would go atop of it to ensure that the correct thickness was used, I was able to ferret out the correct measurements. I used a razor blade to cut the pads while they were still in their blue protective material. In the future, I will probably use an X-Acto knife because it can be more precise. Some of the thicknesses may be overkill, but I know they make good contact. I obviously thoroughly cleaned the top of the die, as well as the coldplate, with isopropyl alcohol before I applied the new paste. I don't know if it's necessary, but I also used IPA to wipe down the various surfaces that were to come into contact with the thermal pads. Just be sure that the board is thoroughly dry before applying pads or paste. Surrounding the GPU itself (and the hilarious amount of thermal paste Gigabyte applied to it) are the RAM modules. For these, I used 2mm pads. For two of these pads, there are markings (shown as impressions in the shape of right angles) on the copper coldplate that show how large the pieces should be (Shown in attached picture). There weren't any markings on the coldplate for the RAM thermal pad on the side away from the expansion slot covers, so if yours is like mine, just use the old one as a reference. Now, as we move off the coldplate and toward the end of the card, the next pad I used also measures 2mm. As it's a fairly standard shape, I'll leave it at that. For the next pads, the ones placed in a lower portion of the heatsink with a raised portion separating them, I used 1.5 mm pads. I initially tried using 1mm pads, but I wasn't confident that the contact 1mm pads provided was sufficient. Moving closer to the end of the card, the next pad I used measured 3mm in thickness. I believe I tried a 2mm pad, but it wasn't making proper contact, hence the switch to the thicker pad. For the last long section of thermal pad on the heatsink, I used one measuring 3mm thick. Don't forget to put on the small square pad next to the screw hole like I did the first time. The fact that I had to do this side of the PCB a second time was a gigantic pain, as I had to cut and apply all new thermal pads, as well as apply fresh paste again. I should mention, I use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste. Make sure to COMPLETELY cover the die. It's ok it there is some extra that gets on the PCB around the die, as the paste is not electrically conductive. The extra will squish out of the sides when you tighten down the heatsink. For the second to last thermal pad from the end of the card, I used one measuring 1.5mm. This one is NOT shown in the pictures of the heatsink because it stuck to the components on the PCB, unlike the rest of the pads. You can see this pad in the pictures of the PCB. It goes on top of the shinier part next to the rectangular thermal pad that has two octagonal-shaped marks on it, on the side closer to the die. For the last thermal pad on the heatsink side, I used a 2mm pad. When I reassembled the card the first time, I used a 1mm pad here, as it showed an indentation when I did a test fit. However, it did not leave an impression when I put all of the pads on. A 1.5 mm pad might have worked, but I wanted to be sure. So, when I had to take the card apart again to put that tiny little thermal pad on there, I decided to replace it with the 2mm pad. Guess it's good that I had to take apart a second time! So, on to the backplate. For the piece that touches the copper chunk attached to the backplate, I used a 3mm pad. Like I said earlier, this thing is a pain to cut. For the large pad that has a U-shaped notch in it, I also used a 3mm pad. All of the other 3 pads on the backplate were 2mm thick. Do make sure to leave the plastic sheet on the backplate, as I'm assuming it could prevent electrical shorts if the backplate were to flex and touch two current-carrying portions of the board. Whatever their reasoning, the manufacturer left it on there, and it has functioned so far just fine, so I see no reason to remove it. Whenever you reassemble the card, make sure to do so slowly and evenly! With this many pads being compressed, I'd hate for something to get bent or damaged when being tightened down too quickly. If you do this slowly, there's also a better chance that you'll have even pressure on the GPU die, which is good for thermals. I wanted to dedicate a small portion of this post to comparing temperature and overclocking results. Before I changed out the pads and paste, I ran the Heaven benchmark on a loop with the fans at 100%. With no overclock of any kind on the card, I believe the die measured either 51-52 degrees Celsius, or 53-54 degrees Celsius, as reported by HWiNFO. I was able to get +80 Mhz on the core clock (around 2035-2075 Mhz, depending on temperature), and +85 Mhz on the memory clock (5582 Mhz total). For this, the power limit was set to 120%. I should note that the voltage on this card appears to have a limit of 1062-1063 mV that Afterburner couldn't override. With this overclock applied, I believe the die was either 57-58 degrees Celsius, or 59-60 degrees Celsius. My memory is a little foggy, as I was running on very little sleep at the time. Regardless of what the original temperatures were, they have gone down significantly with the new pads and paste. With the ambient temperature the same as with the previous test, and without the overclock, the die reads 47-48 degrees Celsius. With the new thermal pads and paste, I was able to bump the core clock, but only 20 Mhz higher than before without applications crashing. However, I was able to get the memory clock higher than before. It's currently set to +100 Mhz (5602 Mhz total), but I was able to get a stable +160 Mhz on the memory clock. I probably could have gone higher, but it didn't seem to be having an effect on any benchmarks I was running, so I backed it down to +100, which is where I stopped seeing any real improvements. I tuned my own fan curve, but it wouldn't hold a +100 Mhz on the core clock with the lower fan speeds, so I had to turn it down to +85. With this overclock applied, and a fan speed of 60-70% under full load, I was able to get a score of 3976 on the standard 1080p Heaven Benchmark, which, from my understanding, is good for a 1080 Ti. Well, that's my breakdown of the pad and paste replacement of a Gigabyte Aorus 1080 Ti. Hope this helps somebody! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:15 PM PST Hello Friends, I've been building PCs for a long time, at least 14 years at this point and for the first time ever I've encountered non-stop RAM compatibility issues. I used to be able to just grab any size RAM I needed so long as I knew if it was DDR3 or DDR4 and if it was ECC or not. I've been trying to build some newer PCs and been banging my head against a wall trying to get them to boot but it seems newer RAM has to be on a QVL list before support will even touch it. In my case I have 3 Motherboards that I've tested with: ASUS ROG Strix X570-E + Ryzen 9 5900X ASUS ROG Strix B550-F + Ryzen 7 5800X GIGABYTE B550 VISION D-P + Ryzen 7 5800X I purchased these RAM sticks: I have updated the BIOS on all systems, moved RAM around and they just wont POST, you get some fans lit or some LEDs but overall just no booting. However I have existing RAM that works in each system and everything just works fine: GSkill Ripjaws V DDR4-3200MHz CL16-18-18-38 1.35V 32GB (2x16GB) I understand that the RAM I have purchased may not be on the QVL lists but what I wonder is what causes the incompatibility? I'm out of the return period on the Crucial sticks but its just overall frustrating that I can't just buy RAM with the confidence that if it fits, it will work. [link] [comments] |
| I Think I've Made A Terrible Mistake (ASUS TUF VG27BQ) Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:15 PM PST I've finally moved on from my old ASUS VX239H (1080p, IPS). It was starting to show its age, but I always though it look brilliantly. I wanted 1440p and Freesync from my new monitor, everything else being gravy. Problem is I both work full time, play, and even edit video on same machine, which makes me a tricky customer. I pondered a while between the available Black Friday deals, and in particular, between the VG27AQ and BQ. The BQ was slightly cheaper, but it is a TN panel, vs the AQ's IPS. But from between the drawbacks of IPS, the ambivalent online opinions, and the advice of both friends and online guides that panel type was far less a concern than overall quality, I went for it. Regretting it pretty badly at the moment. 1440p and Freesync are indeed game changers, but... I simply can't look past the panel drawbacks. In comparison to the VX239H, everything looks faded, darks are so bright, I can hardly make out white from grey, and I never feel like I'm looking at it from the right angle. The classic drawbacks of a TN, I suppose. I've tried fiddling with the settings, but I've not been able to improve it significantly. Thinking of returning it (which will be a hassle of its own, I've never returned an online package, much less one of this size, and it's a foreign store). Black Friday deals are over of course, but I can find VG27AQ for 50€ more than I spent on the BQ. But as you can probably deduce from my language, I'm rather out of my depth. Based on my comments, do you think that's the best option for me? Or are there better options in that price range? Everything else about the VG27 looks good, but HDMI 2.0 and DP 1.2 seem underwhelming. Or is there a setup that can vastly improve it and should I stick with it? [link] [comments] |
| White build. Can't decide Gigabyte B550 + 5800x vs Gigabyte Z690 + 12600k Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:12 PM PST After finally getting a 3070 ti, I'm only 2 parts away from completing my first white build which I'm planning to keep for the next 5 years. The problem is I can't decide between these 2 options:
Because I'm buildng a white PC, I have already excluded from the list most of the B550 boards since they are not white. As for Z690 boards both Asus Strix Z690 and MSI MPG Z690 are just too expensive. Does anyone here have any experience with any of those 2 motherboards or just general advice that could sway me towards either Intel or AMD system? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 05 Dec 2021 01:11 PM PST From my knowledge, a two fan cpu radiator setup should be plugged into the two cpu_fan ports on your motherboard. One in the cpu_fan port and the other in the cpu_opt. I will soon be building a 4 fan radiator build but I have no idea how to have all 4 linked up with the cpu temps and such. Any help? Thank you in advance! [link] [comments] |
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