Home Networking Guys, They keep thinking that I'm a Bot! Help! |
- Guys, They keep thinking that I'm a Bot! Help!
- I'm sick of every router being complete dog shit, I'm at my limit
- Issues with TP-Link AX4400!
- Arris SB6190 wont connect.
- Cannot get 2.5Gig Ethernet to work on MacBook Pro
- Is it possible to make a NAS quiet enough for a living area without using SSDs?
- Access Point and POE Switch Suggestions
- Powerline, Mesh, or something else?
- Migrating IP network to less common range. Do you have a suggestion on what to do first?
- New switch not working
- New bulk cable and shielded RJ 45 plugs. What am I missing?
- Normal Speeds over 5Ghz?
- Lots of weirdness happening, getting 10mbps instead of 300. out of troubleshooting ideas
- Whole Home Mesh Network
- Confused about port tagging
- Network Configuration
- Packet Loss with PingPlotter
- leased Router USB sharing help and suggestions on which one(s) to own instead
- No internet connection iOS 15
- ASUS PCE-AC56 5GHz Connection Issues
- iOS This network is blocking encrypted DNS traffic
- How do you send wifi down a hall to another condo?
- Unique situation: which router/mesh system would be best?
- WIFI6E AI Mesh Alternatives under $1200
- Using an ASUS AI Mesh Router as wired only switch in AI Mesh Network
| Guys, They keep thinking that I'm a Bot! Help! Posted: 30 Oct 2021 11:49 AM PDT Almost every site I visit such as Facebook, Instagram, Youtube, and Twitter either shadowbans my accounts and posts, blocks me from making an account without a phone number, or immediately flags my account to the point that I have to verify my phone number or upload a government issued ID. Outlook has also indefinitely blocked some of my accounts due to "unusual activity." And of course I have been facing Google's infamous "verify it's you" and "We couldn't recover your account because we couldn't verify it's you." I don't do anything illegal or crazy, I just browse the web and stream like a normal person. Im not into social media, but whenever I try to sign up or try to post just 1 thing like a review or post, I often get blocked, buried, or shadowbanned. I can't even successfully use Receive Sms and Burner number services or Google Voice to bypass this mess. When I search on Google, the robot captcha appears a lot. It doesn't matter if VPN is enabled or not. In fact, I don't regularly use a VPN and do not have a VPN installed on my modem or router. The only time I use a VPN is with a VPN app (the ones that have ON and OFF buttons) for desktop or mobile devices. I'm using:
They don't even treat scammers, spammers, cybercriminals, and Russian Bots like they do me! This has been happening to me for years even when I was still using Xfinity's sh1tty wireless gateway modem rentals. Do I need to buy a new modem and router? How do I stop this madness? And how can I make any account I want or as many accounts as I want without the system flagging me as a bot or suspicious person?! [link] [comments]  |
| I'm sick of every router being complete dog shit, I'm at my limit Posted: 30 Oct 2021 11:42 AM PDT I've gone through 3 in the last 5 years and none of them could handle a fucking VPN connection without torrents, let alone downloading torrents. They constantly reset and reboot, I even with a fan on them (thought I fixed it with that). So, I've decided I need something more substantial. The raspberry pi 4 looks miles more powerful than any router and you can build it with active cooling. BUT I don't know anything about chipsets. Is the BCM4345/6 (i believe that's the chipset) any good? Or am I wasting my time? Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 01:39 PM PDT Hello, I wonder if anyone has the same issue! So I have noticed that my internet speeds would drop to about half as soon as I sign-in to Homeshield and enroll my router! Is this a hardware limitation or my unit is defective? Please see the screenshot attached TP-Link AX4400 https://imgur.com/a/6n67t2Q [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 06:25 PM PDT The power indicator is on, receiving signal light is solid green, and the sending signal light is blinking. It has been blinking all day. I have reset, unplugged power as well, not sure what to do. I type in the IP address in my browser and it does not pull anything up. Does anyone know what I should do? [link] [comments]  |
| Cannot get 2.5Gig Ethernet to work on MacBook Pro Posted: 30 Oct 2021 12:22 PM PDT I recently updated the switch in my house to 2.5Gig ethernet. This is the model I am using. Both my main desktop and my NAS have 2.5GbE built into their motherboards, and I have been able to get the full bandwidth between the two. File transfers average about 230-240MB/s. The issue has been using my 2019 16-inch MacBook Pro on wired Ethernet. I bought this Pluggable 2.5G USB-C to Ethernet Adapter. Oddly enough, it appears that it should be working. In iPerf tests, I do get the full 230-240MB/s speed between my MacBook Pro and my NAS. I also get similar speeds using Blackmagic Disk Speed Test (mapped to drive in NAS). But actual file transfers to/from my NAS just felt sluggish. It didn't feel any faster than 1Gbps Ethernet. Turns out I was right. Mac Finder doesn't show live transfer speed like Windows Explorer does. File transfers were only running at around 110MB/s. Using the rsync command to do a file transfer via terminal command, I was able to confirm that the file transfer speed was only ~110MB/s. When I use this same Ethernet adapter on a Windows laptop, I am able to get the full 2.5Gbps speed. Why is it that I am able to get 2.5Gbps Ethernet speeds on my MacBook Pro in iPerf and Blackmagic Disk Speed Test, but not in actual file transfers using Finder? How do I fix this? [link] [comments]  |
| Is it possible to make a NAS quiet enough for a living area without using SSDs? Posted: 30 Oct 2021 03:34 PM PDT I'm considering putting together a home NAS, but because I live in an apartment it would be difficult to get it out of earshot. Is it possible to get 4 TB or 6TB harddrives (not SSDs -- they seem prohibitively expensive) that are close to silent? I've done a fair bit of reading on the subject but I'm getting contradictory reports. If there are close to silent HDDs available a recommendation of make and model would be greatly appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| Access Point and POE Switch Suggestions Posted: 30 Oct 2021 05:45 AM PDT Hi Friends, To not waste your precious time, I'll keep it short. Internte speed: Gigabit Fiber (1Gb Down/1Gb Up) The need? I'm looking for APs that support SSID VLAN tagging. Candidates:
I already read this awesome comparison between Aruba and Ubiqutu: Wi-Fi Speed Tests — Aruba Instant On vs. UniFi — McCann Tech (evanmccann.net)
[link] [comments]  |
| Powerline, Mesh, or something else? Posted: 30 Oct 2021 05:08 PM PDT Hey folks, In September 2020 I built a new PC without WiFi which forced me to buy something to get LAN running in my room. So I got a TP-Link powerline Kit. The Problem is that I only get around 15MBits/sec, although we have a 100MBits/sec Bandwith. And before anybody asks, yes the router does get the full Bandwidth. The Main reason is, that our house, although we completely renovated it, doesn't have any LAN ports in the house. And we don't want to break up the walls only to get LAN lines running throughout the house. So that's why I bought a powerline. But I sadly have alot of problems with the connectivity and reach of the powerline. Firstly I only have a very low Bandwidth as I said, probably because the router is on the other side of the house. Secondly, the powerline has started to not like the high power consumption of my PC, because it's interfering with the connection. So I took the powerline out of my room and plugged it into a socket closer to the main powerline adapter and I got 50 MBits/sec out of it. But that would mean, that I'd have to buy a wifi pcie card for my pc. So now I'm curious if I'll just go that way like I just said and accept the 50 MBits or if there's a way, for example a mesh system, which gets me even closer to the full 100 MBits/sec... Besides, would a mesh network be able to top the 50MBits? [link] [comments]  |
| Migrating IP network to less common range. Do you have a suggestion on what to do first? Posted: 30 Oct 2021 05:04 PM PDT I am using the way too common 192.168.0.x/24 since ever and need to migrate to something less likely to clash to remote LANs that I sometimes VPN into. I am going to pick a 10.x.x.x/22 range. But I am now trying to figure out a list of what to do first, firewall rules, DHCP, hypervisor, etc. Any ideas from those of you who already done such migration would be appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 04:53 PM PDT I got a new switch a Cisco 2960G, it's not new it's used new and I've already gone in and reset it 100% to factory defaults with a serial cable. I got it connected and open with Cisco network assistant and it shows 1 port has my laptop connected and it shows port 2 is connected but I can't connect to the internet or my router. I don't know shit about this thing and figured it would be a little more plug an play if everything was in default mode. But apparently not. How do I get it to connect the internet through the switch? I already setup a VLAN1 and I think it's something in the IP addresses device config spot. I've tried my routers main at 192.168.1.1 and nothing. Also what should the DNS server be? It defaulted to 255.255.255.255 and if I try to use 255.255.255.0 it doesn't like that and makes an error. [link] [comments]  |
| New bulk cable and shielded RJ 45 plugs. What am I missing? Posted: 30 Oct 2021 07:40 PM PDT I recently decided to make my own custom length Ethernet cable runs. So I purchased bulk cat6 cable, shielded rj45 ends and the tools need to execute the ends correctly. After several practice jobs, I felt like I had mastered the task at hand. Of course, that wasn't the case. Only long run executed~45 foot, pat on the back, good job, hooked it up, didn't work. I had made a crossover. Lesson learned. Redid the T568a to T568b, reconnected cable, bam in business. Did the rest of my runs. Everything is great. Last run is to my Gaming rig. ~20 foot run to my router. Finished the cable. Hooked it up. Speed test to see that sweet gig speed. Boy was I disappointed. Google speedtest 10m. Wtf. Troubleshoot, check network connection, it shows max speed is 10m. Ok, did something wrong. Check plugs. Flawless execution, T568b on both ends, great snap into place at both ends. Check network connection, 100m. Better but, still where is my horsepower? Check cable and plugs. No kinks, no bends, no breaks. Executed 100% as T568b. Reconnected, checked network connection, 1gig. Yay. But on occasion I have to go through the above song and dance to reconvince the connection that it indeed is one gig. Recently made a custom run ~25 foot for a buddy and he is having the exact same issue. What could be the root of this problem? Poor quality rj45 connectors? Bad cat6 cable? ID10t error? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 07:12 PM PDT I have a Netgear R6400v2, I was wondering what proper speeds for it would be, it supports full gigabit but on my home PC, about 50-60 feet from the router I get around 100Mb/s on my 400Mb/s plan. There are 2 walls in between the two but it seems slower than usual, The 2Ghz speeds are even worse, are these proper speeds or do I need a new router? [link] [comments]  |
| Lots of weirdness happening, getting 10mbps instead of 300. out of troubleshooting ideas Posted: 30 Oct 2021 06:24 PM PDT (Everything here is Win10) Disclaimer! While it may sound like I know what I'm talking about, I most assuredly don't. If I ask stupid questions to your replies, please be patient! Thank you! Background and setup
What's happening
What I've tried (mostly on PC, I don't want to mess around on WC too much since I don't entirely know what I'm doing)
I need help. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 05:18 PM PDT Hi. I am moving to a new detached home from a condo/apartment and I am looking for advice on home mesh networks. I am moving to a 3 level home (basement, main level and 2nd floor). I believe the internet modem provided by the ISP will be located in the basement, in the furnace room. If the mesh network router is located in the basement with the modem, how many nodes will I need? Would one node on the main floor be enough? Should I have a second node on the 2nd floor? Is it possible to have everything be wireless or do I need to run wiring to each node from the basement? TIA! Im not a complete noob, just haven't been keeping up wifi technology in the last 3-4 years while living in the small condo 🧐 [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 11:09 AM PDT So I've been reading about port tagging, but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around it, and how to implement it. I have a QNAP QSW-M408-2C. Port 1 is connected to my router for internet access, and the rest of the ports are connected to various devices. I want to isolate some devices so they only have internet access, and no access to the local network. Am I going down the right path? If so, which ports do I want to tag? I tried setting it up a while ago and ended up breaking it in spectacular fashion, and had to reset the switch. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 04:58 PM PDT I am having some trouble getting things configured, not sure where to start. Analysis paralysis. I'm not sure how to set this up properly. Right now I have my ProtectLI Vault running pfSense plugged into my modem and my router is plugged into the LAN port. I am not sure if this is the correct way to do this, should my router be in AP mode? Currently, it is not. I would like to isolate my security camera from the rest of my network and restrict outbound traffic. To do this, do I have to create a VLan ? If so, how does this work with my router? I am concerned the device may try to phone home using a different address so my thoughts were to isolate it. However, I am new to all of this and am unsure how to go about doing all of this. Devices
So my questions are, is this the right way to connect these devices and how can I isolate my camera from the rest of my devices and restrict its outbound traffic. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 01:01 PM PDT Hey all, I've been experiencing really bad packet loss over the past few weeks - My ISP, Comcast came out and said that my lines are fine and I need to rent their Modem/Router for them to do anymore troubleshooting, so I'm essentially left to figure things out myself. Internet Plan - 800Mbps/Download; 15Mbps/UploadModem - Arris Surfboard SB8200Router - Netgear Nighthawk RAX120 My computer does have a static IP set up with 8.8.8.8 as the DNS. I'm attempting to use PingPlotter to find the problem but I'm fairly new with it - The Packet Loss is occurring on IP 192.168.1.1 while testing 8.8.8.8, pingman.com, google.com, akamai.com The other thing I noticed is my Status page for my Modem shows corrected and uncorrectables on EVERY channel. I've tried replacing the modem with a new modem however the problem didn't disappear. I still have a new modem (SB8200) in a box here in case I need to do more testing for that specifically. Modem Event Log: Thanks for your time and effort, I appreciate you all! [link] [comments]  |
| leased Router USB sharing help and suggestions on which one(s) to own instead Posted: 30 Oct 2021 12:39 PM PDT I'll cut to the chase. I just upgraded my leased router/modem via my ISP (Arris DG3450) and I want to share a USB device (portable HD) so I can access it remotely from my smartphone. I can't seem to find that function in the router/modem and my ISP didn't have a clue, so I called the manufacture of the router and they told me to contact my ISP. Does anyone know if this is possible with the device; Arris DG3450? I'm beginning to think this isn't a function with this router even tho it has a USB port. So I'm thinking of buying one myself to replace my crappy leased unit. I'll have this USB sharing ability and I can save on the monthly lease fees by owning the router/modem. I've checked out some devices on amazon and the one I was looking at says that it works with plans up to 400Mbps, but wifi speeds of 1900Mbps. My plan is 500, but I get closer to a gig. I'm not trying to cheap out, but I'm also not trying to get the wrong device either. So if y'all don't think I can share a USB device with the Arris DG3450, what would you recommend as a replacment modem/router combo that I can buy instead? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Oct 2021 12:29 PM PDT I frequently get internet that stops working on several iOS devices - most of them are Wi-Fi 6. When I go into the Wi-Fi preferences it says "No Internet Connection" below my SSID. I have an Eero Pro 6 three pack and this node happens to be connected using MoCa and when I make it wireless the disconnects stop. It's not specific to Eero because I can put my Google Wifi back on and the issue persists. This all started when I updated to iOS 15. Is there any known interoperability issues with MoCa and iOS 15? FWIW all of the other devices connected to the MoCa adapter (MacBook and Apple TV have no problems and can get near 1Gbps speeds.). Anyone else seeing this? I've also done all the basic troubleshooting like resetting network settings, disable private relay, disable WPA3, etc. [link] [comments]  |
| ASUS PCE-AC56 5GHz Connection Issues Posted: 30 Oct 2021 03:43 PM PDT So I've been working on this issue for about 3 hours now and I think i've come to a solution but I need help. Basically 3 days ago our university's wifi went out (I live on an apartment on campus, we use MyResNet for our internet). Before the outage I was able to connect to the 5GHz MyResNet internet just fine. However after the outage my desktop can no longer see the 5GHz MyResNet and can only see the 2.4GHz MyResNet (Legacy) wifi. Meanwhile every other device I have can connect to it just fine. After some research I found that some ASUS units cant see some 5GHz Network Channels (notably those between 50-100). And looking at the wifi properties it shows that the Network Channel is set to 60. So now I need to know if this is a problem that can be fixed by using different drivers, and what those drivers are. Or, if this cant be fixed by installing different drivers, then I'll have to wait till Monday to see if I can request a technician to reset the router (I don't have access to it physically). [link] [comments]  |
| iOS This network is blocking encrypted DNS traffic Posted: 30 Oct 2021 05:56 AM PDT Hey guys, My knowledge with home networking is very poor. I connected a TP-Link archer C5 router as an extra acces point to my modem. I disabled DHCP and chose a LAN IP within the range of the modems' IP and I use the same subnet mask. And disabled imgp for the iptv. Everything works fine, but on my phone I get a warning when I connect to the wifi of the modem. The warning is: "This network is blocking encrypted DNS traffic". The network works fine, but do I have to chance something for my online security? Of can the warning be ignored? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| How do you send wifi down a hall to another condo? Posted: 30 Oct 2021 08:03 AM PDT Bit of an odd problem, looking for a solution. Our building has a guest suite that can be booked for guests, but it has no wifi. Our condo is just down the hall. The distance from our wireless router to the interior of the guest suite is about 100 feet. There is no direct line of sight from our suite door to the other suite door. Provided we could get away with it, there are a series of hall outlets leading to the guest suite. Plugging some sort of inconspicuous emitter into the hall outlet nearest our suite would cut the distance by 30 feet. Any advice welcome, new to this. [link] [comments]  |
| Unique situation: which router/mesh system would be best? Posted: 30 Oct 2021 05:44 AM PDT Hello all! I did search, but couldn't find anything applicable to my specific situation. The setup: we are in Canada, just moved into our second rural home and we're on a LTE 25/10 connection (best we have right now until Starlink comes to this area). We have lots of Google devices (4 cameras, 2 hubs, thermostat), 2 mobile phones, 2 smart TVs, I have a desktop PC and work Macbook Pro and my wife has a laptop for work. I am wired in on my desktop, everything else is on wifi. M wife is at the other end of our house. Currently using the Google Nest Router, but looking for something different. The problem: I play games on my desktop and all our viewing entertainment comes from streaming services. When I'm playing, say, Path of Exile on my PC all is well. Ping is good even when streaming YouTube videos on my second screen. As soon as my wife starts watching a show on one of our smart tvs via Netflix or Disney+ my smooth gaming goes bye-bye. Rubber banding and frustration ensue. I've done some researching and, correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to be a bufferbloat issue. My store is extremely low: either it lags so hard I can't get a score, or it's a D/F. I've been looking into routers with SQM to counter/fix the bufferbloat, as the Google Nest Router has practically zero options that are any good. This in itself isn't the biggest deal, as I could find one (like the IQrouter) that could solve this single issue. The conflict/other problem here is that any router I use (including the TPlink AC1750 I just bought from our ISP) gives us fine signal on wireless devices for the main part of the house, but off the kitchen/living room is a long hallway and at the end of that is my wife's office. The main house shows speed tests of 20-25 Mbps. Her end of the house? less than 1 Mbps. I switched to the Google Nest Router and Nest Point placed at the beginning of the hallway leading to her office and she now gets about 6 Mbps, which is okay, but the Google router is even crappier for dealing with bufferbloat (ie. it can't). Mesh systems seem to be the way to go, but don't know if these also include SQM for helping to solve bufferbloat. So here's the request, if you can: does anyone have advice for which mesh systems to buy that include SQM? It's a minefield of options out there and not all (read: most) don't outwardly display this information. A follow up question to this is: can I buy any router and use any mesh points with it or do you have to buy a whole system? Forgive me, I know a bit about this stuff, but it's not my forte. Thanks in advance for any support/advice you can provide! Alataks [link] [comments]  |
| WIFI6E AI Mesh Alternatives under $1200 Posted: 30 Oct 2021 02:54 PM PDT Looking for advice on alternates to AI Mesh for a high performance, highly customizable, gaming and entertainment focused mesh network. I just dropped $500 on the ASUS WIFI6e GT-AXE100 to add to replace my RT-AC88U as the head of my AI Mesh network only to find out that there are only 4 wired ports. I have a separate post (link below) to see if I can use the RT-AC88U as a wired switch in the setup but it made me think maybe I should just start over from scratch. Budget $1000-$1200. Want one SSID for 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz for the whole house. WIFI 6 or WIFI 6e devices. Easy to use QoS and port forwarding features, etc. Single story, 3 bedroom, ranch style home with coverage needed in garage at far end of house. Really appreciate the communities feedback here [link] [comments]  |
| Using an ASUS AI Mesh Router as wired only switch in AI Mesh Network Posted: 30 Oct 2021 02:42 PM PDT https://i.imgur.com/3ojc55A.jpg I have decided to upgrade the primary router in my home network from ASUS RT-AC88U to the new WIFI6e GT-AXE11000. The problem I am running into with the upgrade is the GT-AXE11000 has only 4 wired connections while the RT-AC88U had 8 connections (and there is not an ASUS WIFI6e device with 8). Is it possible to keep my RT-AC88U in the network as a wired switch with the Wi-Fi signals turned off? If so how do I do that? My AI Mesh network includes an RT-AC86U and an RP-AC1900 that are hardwired backhauls. Can I connect the RT-AC88U to the GT-AXE1100 and then have both AI Mesh devices hardwired to the RT-AC88U? My desired state would be having my PS5, my gaming PC, PS5, xbox series X, and RT-AC88U hardwired to the GT-AXE11000. The RT-AC88U would then handle the two AI Mesh devices, TV, Apple TV, etc I have mapped out what my network will look like in the floor plan of my house with the desired hardwired device connections listed in Red. [link] [comments]  |
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