Home Networking Getting a little tired of Unifi |
- Getting a little tired of Unifi
- Roku The Mesh Killer
- Netgear Nighthawk RAXE500 Review: Wi-Fi 6E Has Landed
- A Few Newbie Questions for Simple Home Network Setup
- pfSense with two lans
- Configuring a new instance of TP-Link Omada on a company network, changing the default LAN/IP
- Thinking about upgrading to Wi-Fi 6
- Looking for a router to run several unify APs
- Easiest way to replace ~100ft Ethernet cable that runs from living room to play room through the attic?
- Home Network Problem - ISP guy is unavailable since over a month
- Testing line quality with Unifi?
- 4g lte wifi grandfathered account from eBay
- Mesh Nodes with different channels?
- Exactly what ports are necessary for a computer/server to have internet access to regular internet services?
- AT&T Upload Speed
- Sharing WiFi from a Pi to the WAN port on a router?
- Cradlepoint / Unifi IPSEC tunnel
- This is really bad and I'm not sure how to fix it.
- With new fiber infrastructure coming to my area, will my ping improve? (speculatory)
- OC200 Suddenly Offline
- Don't know what I'm looking for
- I need help buying a router that isn't awful
- Setting up MoCA with my Xfi gateway
- Send/receive stuck on blink for Arris surfboard SBG7400AC2
- Removing one device from ethernet breaks the internet for all other ethernet devices
| Getting a little tired of Unifi Posted: 01 Jun 2021 12:02 PM PDT I'm a die-hard Unifi guy. Ever since my company bought a site that had Unifi already implemented, I've been all over it. I'm Unifi Certified, I have it at home and for the longest time loved it and was loyal to Ubiquiti. But I'm starting to think they aren't as spectacular as I make them out to be. I took down my two AP AC Pros and stuck a Meraki MR33 on the wall just as a test. I've noticed a great improvement in connectivity, stability, and speed. Don't get me wrong, I know my WiFi pretty well. My Unifi devices were adjusted properly - power levels adjusted so they didn't interfere with each other. Minimum RSSI set up, etc. They WORK. I've just always felt like there was something... off. And after installing the Meraki, it turns out I was right. So what do you like at home? Here's what I'm working with: 2500 square foot house .5 acres of land Both APs will be hard wired I need/want mesh networking/seamless transition from one to the other ( I know most if not all support this) At least Gig Ethernet PoE Hit me with suggestions. EDIT: oh noes, I said bad things about Unifi and was downvoted. Boo freakin' hoo. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Jun 2021 08:06 PM PDT During the last 3 months I have tried to increase my home's internet coverage. I have 3 people zooming all day, and about 50 IoT devices in my house. I have tried the following combinations:
No matter what setup I did... I continued to have gremlins in the system. Slow bandwidth on a device, WiFi but no internet on another, random 30 minute outages, and the list goes on. It was in testing out the XD4 setup that I finally put it all together. I was having nightly micro outtages (1-30 seconds), my zoom calls degrade when kids watch TV and the kicker... roku remotes needed to be repaired. This is how I discovered that Roku is likely the source of all my problems. I have 4 Roku's, 6 remotes and a pair of roku speakers. Today I learned that roku keeps in contact with its peripherals using WiFi direct on the same channel that it uses to access your access point and it actually intentionally introduces interference in order to improve the quality of your remote/speaker experience. Yep, wow. Maybe Reddit knew this already. I certainly didn't. Here are some of the reasons why this is truly evil:
I am currently trying to run with all my Roku's going to their own access point (R7000) with their own channel and running the rest of my home off of XD4 Mesh. So far it's smooth sailing. But a lot more complexity than I thought I would need. [link] [comments]  |
| Netgear Nighthawk RAXE500 Review: Wi-Fi 6E Has Landed Posted: 01 Jun 2021 06:07 AM PDT TL;DR:
* The Nighthawk RAXE500 is one of the few Wi-Fi 6E devices you can buy right now. If you have the money to spare and don't mind dealing with a few quirks and bugs, the RAXE500 is a good option.Netgear Nighthawk RAXE500 Review: Wi-Fi 6E Has LandedThe Upsilon-Class Command Shuttle of Wi-FiWith the arrival of the Netgear Nighthawk RAXE500, ASUS GT-AXE11000, Linksys Atlas Max 6E and Hydra Pro 6E, Wi-Fi 6E has officially landed (1). Depending on your view it may have landed with style, or with a thud. It'll take a few more months for early bugs to be fixed, and a few more years for mass adoption. We're in the early days of Wi-Fi 6E, and we only have a peek of what 6 GHz can give us. First, a disclaimer: I'm not normally a fan of Netgear products. I recently tested the Netgear Orbi RBK852 kit. I found it frustrating, even though it had the best performance I've seen from a Wi-Fi 6 mesh kit. It's not just Netgear — I had similar experiences with the Linksys Velop MX10 and Atlas Max 6E kits. Most consumer Wi-Fi systems don't appeal to a networking nerd like me, but I'm not here to grumble. This review focuses less on the device and more on what's new: Wi-Fi 6E and 6 GHz. This is not a walkthrough of marketing talking points. I'm putting my personal preferences aside, and trying to be as objective and detailed as possible. This isn't a review of the upside-down-RGB-spider Asus ROG Rapture GT-AXE11000 ... sorry. I'll keep the amount of jokes I make about the styling at a minimum. I know what you're thinking (2), but who says a long, in-depth Wi-Fi router review can't be fun too? Table of Contents
Cutting Through the Wi-Fi 6E HypeWi-Fi 6E is in the early adopter phase. Availability is limited, benefits aren't always obvious, and prices are high. There are limited hardware options, and software support for 6 GHz is still in beta, if it exists at all. You'll need all new devices to use it, and the few that exist are expensive. Despite all of this, hype is sky high. If you listen to Netgear and some other manufacturers, you'll hear flowery descriptions and marketing language, such as:
Linksys and Netgear are tame in comparison to Asus, who claims this is "space-age networking for space-age devices" with "triple-level game acceleration". The hyperbole is coming in fast, at 8K resolution with ultra-low latency. Sadly, reality is much less exciting. Using and testing Wi-Fi 6E isn't easy right now. As I discussed in Wi-Fi 6E Progress and Reality, I'm lucky to live in the US which is unlocking the full 1200 MHz of spectrum (3) in the 6 GHz band. Luck can only take you so far, though. I only have a single 6 GHz client, and most people have zero. I don't have a Samsung Galaxy Ultra S21, so I'm limited to an Intel AX210 PCIe card as a client device. Windows 10 won't officially support 6 GHz operation until later this year, but it's possible to associate to a 6 GHz AP with the right driver and a small registry tweak. With a single 6 GHz client, the data I'm able to gather and the performance tests I can do are limited. If all you want to know is if the RAXE500 is fast, the answer is yes. You can break the 1 Gbps barrier with 160 MHz channels, and get close to it with 80 MHz channels. That's true with both 5 GHz and 6 GHz bands, and it's possible on less expensive Wi-Fi 6 equipment. There's more to 6 GHz than doing a speed test and confirming the numbers are high. None of the Wi-Fi analyzers I've tried support the 6 GHz band, and Windows itself doesn't show the band and channel number correctly yet. These things will work themselves out as time goes on, but the bottom line is there is no need to rush out and buy something with 6 GHz support. 6 GHz will only become useful as more devices support it, and we're not there yet. Tim Higgins at Small Net Builder has a more comprehensive testing method, and the gear to do things scientifically. I'll refer you to his recent articles on Wi-Fi 6E for that. He discusses many interesting details, and shows how channel number, width, and frequency impact performance. I'm not able to match his depth, but I can discuss my experience overall, detail the hardware and software, compare the RAXE500 with some Wi-Fi 6 and Wi-Fi 6E competitors, and clear up some common misconceptions about Wi-Fi 6E performance and the 6 GHz band. Let's cut through the hype by starting with some specs for the Nighthawk RAXE500. Netgear Nighthawk RAXE500 SpecsOverview
Radios
System on a Chip
Ports
Security
Dimensions
Weight
Warranty
Hardware and Software ImpressionsHardwareLets get the obvious out of the way — the Nighthawk RAXE500 looks like a space ship. Maybe that's what Asus meant by space-age networking? Like the RAX80/RAX120/RAX200 before it, the RAXE500 has a distinct Kylo Ren look to it. It's the Upsilon-Class Command Shuttle of Wi-Fi. The RAXE500 isn't egregious with it's antennas and lighting like some Asus and TP-Link Archer "gamer" routers, and I've actually come to like the overall look. The glossy black coating is a fingerprint and dust magnet, but the speckled black plastic looks nice in the right lighting. Moving beyond the surface level impressions, a few things stick out: - There's a fan which is audible during startup and under heavy load, but normally quiet enough to ignore. - The overall build quality is good, and it feels fairly well made. In some areas the plastic doesn't fit together perfectly, and the antenna hinges on my unit make a bit of a clicking noise when they're adjusted. - There are a few LED status lights, but there is a physical LED on/off button, and a way to turn them off in software. This isn't the case with the light on the Linksys Atlas Max 6E, which is bright enough to light up a room at night, with no way to disable it. - The power adapter is large, and it won't easily fit on all power strips. Software and Netgear ArmorConsumer Wi-Fi routers are usually bare-bones when it comes to software features and support, but the Netgear Nighthawk RAXE500 is slightly ahead of the pack. The RAXE500 can be managed using its web interface, or from a phone or tablet using the Netgear Nighthawk Android or iOS app. The Nighthawk app is limited and the web interface isn't the greatest, but it does offer plenty of settings. Asus is a bit better here, and Linksys is a bit worse. You need the full web interface to access advanced settings such as port forwarding, link aggregation, static routing, NTP, and Readyshare (USB sharing). The Nighthawk app also doesn't allow you to block access to certain websites, create access schedules, enable Smart Connect band steering, configure multi-gig WAN, or view logs in the app. Overall, the Nighthawk app is pretty sparse, and pretty slow. Almost every click causes a loading screen. Netgear separates their Nighthawk line from their mesh-focused Orbi line, but they pull a lot of the same tricks in both. During setup the apps prompt you to sign up for a paid security plan (Netgear Armor) as well as extended warranty and technical support plans. I used Netgear Armor during my test of the Orbi RBK852, and again while testing out the Nighthawk RAXE500. Both times, Armor didn't impress me. According to Netgear, you should:
It's hard to know what Netgear Armor actually does. In my limited testing it didn't do much. Netgear Armor only exists in a few screens in the app, and isn't mentioned at all in the web interface. Using it requires trust that Netgear and Bitdefender are doing the right things behind the scene. Even if they are, spending upwards of $500 on the hardware and being presented with additional subscriptions during setup isn't the best experience. I prefer how TP-Link throws in these kind of features for free, or how Eero and Asus pair their subscription with better graphs, logging, and features. Linksys… just smiles, and tells you you're on your own. Other Nighthawk models support using Circle for parental controls, but the RAXE500 doesn't support it yet. Right now, the parental controls are limited: you can block access to specific websites and create access schedules, but you don't get the content-filtering options that you get with Circle, Eero Secure, TP-Link HomeCare, or Asus AiProtection. Pricing
My advice? Skip the subscriptions. Notes on Setup and SettingsSetup is mostly straightforward, and I'm not going to cover it in detail. I do want to call attention to a few things though. When you setup a new Nighthawk RAXE500, the following settings are default: Disabled by Default
Enabled by Default
Other Settings Minutia
Wi-Fi 6E Competition: Netgear, Asus, and LinksysAt CES this year, a bunch of manufacturers announced Wi-Fi 6E routers, and a few of them are now shipping. I made a chart with the common suspects, and some of the Wi-Fi 6 versions they are based on. As you can see, the first round of Wi-Fi 6E routers have a lot in common. Netgear and Asus are both using Broadcom chipsets, and the differences between them mostly come down to styling and firmware. In a few areas Netgear is a little behind Asus, and a bit ahead of Linksys. Getting accurate information about the exact details wasn't easy, please let me know if anything in that chart isn't correct. I'm more excited about the 6 GHz spectrum and the continued increase of availability than I am about any of these specific products. None of these are what I would normally buy, but they are what's available. Lets take a closer look at the other Wi-Fi 6E devices on the market as of early June 2021. Asus GT-AXE11000: Over The TopThe Asus GT-AXE11000 was the first Wi-Fi 6E router, and it shares a lot of the same components as the RAXE500. The styling isn't to my taste, but the performance, software features, and their AiMesh ecosystem has a lot of benefits. This is on my list to test and review, but for now I'll point you to Small Net Builder for more details. Linksys Atlas Max 6E: A Dollar Per MbpsI recently had access to an Atlas Max 6E mesh kit. I didn't have time to make a full review, but I can summarize my impressions in two words: don't buy. The Atlas Max 6E: Triple Tri-band Mesh - If you don't like the Velop app and the current Velop systems, you won't like the Atlas Max 6E. Linksys has the simplest app and web interface of the three. Linksys seems to be allergic to offering meaningful settings in their mobile app. - Basic Wi-Fi settings (channel number, width, etc) require you to go into the web interface and access the hidden CA (consumer advocacy) mode. Dong Ngo has instructions here. - Performance of the Atlas Max 6E was impressive, especially with Wi-Fi 6 and 6E clients connected to the main node using the 5 GHz or 6 GHz bands. The 1 Gbps LAN ports are a limitation though. - Wireless mesh backhaul was faster than the Velop MX10. The lower range of 6 GHz, and lack of control over the band that is used for backhaul makes it a bit of a mixed bag. With the units relatively close in my modest 2-story house, I was able to essentially get gigabit performance over wireless backhaul. With the units spread further apart performance wasn't better than the MX10, at least in my limited testing. - While the 5 Gbps WAN port is nice, the lack of multi-gig LAN or link aggregation is disappointing. The 5 Gbps port can be used as a LAN port on mesh nodes, but not on the node used as the main router. - Linksys intelligent mesh does a pretty good job of handling things behind the scenes, which is good because it doesn't allow you to manually control these things. - The Atlas Max 6E is absurdly expensive, with an MSRP of $1,199 in the US. Best case scenario: It costs a dollar per Mbps. - Don't buy it now, and definitely don't buy it for $1,199. Linksys Hydra Pro 6EThe Hydra Pro 6E is the more traditional all-in-one router option from Linksys, and it's on my list to review. The limitations of the Linksys app and software remain, but this is more reasonable 6E option for most people than the Atlas Max 6E. It doesn't stack up well against the Asus GT-AXE11000 or Netgear Nighthawk RAXE500 on paper. True Tri-Band: 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz, and 6 GHzWhile "tri-band" isn't a new term, an actual 3rd band is. Until now, tri-band devices were limited to 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, usually with two radios in the 5 GHz band. This resulted in tradeoffs, especially when trying to use wider 80 MHz or 160 MHz channels. Like 40 MHz channels in 2.4 GHz, there just isn't enough room in 5 GHz for wider channels to be used reliably. Having two 5 GHz radios helped in some situations such as wireless mesh backhaul, but the limited spectrum of 5 GHz limited the impact. That's the big news about 6 GHz: Finally, tri-band means tri-band. We have up to 7 new 160 MHz channels to work with, and up to 14 new 80 MHz channels. The availability of the full 1200 MHz varies by country, and by device. Indoor low-power APs like the Nighthawk RAXE500 have access to the full band, but normal-power outdoor APs can only use U-NII 5 and 7, and must use AFC to avoid interfering with existing 6 GHz services. Asus and Netgear chose to not support the lowest 6 GHz channels, resulting in six 160 MHz channels and twelve 80 MHz channels being available. (4) Older devices will connect to the 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz radios, while 6E clients will be able to join the 6 GHz radio. This requirement to have 3 different radios and all of the antennas and internal components to support them, is part of the reason why Wi-Fi 6E products are so expensive. In the future 6 GHz-only or dual-band 6E APs may be feasible, but for now tri-band is the best option. Asterisks
Footnotes1) Wi-Fi 6E is not available in all areas. Batteries not included. Some assembly required. 2) A table of contents? What am I getting myself into? 3) The full 1200 MHz = U-NII-5, 6, 7, and 8. See Wikipedia for more details. 4) See "Why can't I see all the 6 GHz channels in my router settings?" in SNB's Wi-Fi 6E: The Basics article. [link] [comments]  |
| A Few Newbie Questions for Simple Home Network Setup Posted: 01 Jun 2021 07:11 PM PDT I've gotten a few quotes for running new CAT6 drops to a few rooms/bedrooms in our house so I can future-proof our home and setup a solid network. Unfortunately, the parts/labor comes out to roughly $225 per drop, not to mention any additional contractor costs to patch up any holes made by the installers. Right now, $5000 is a bit steep for us for the sake of ethernet cable. The good news is, we have some CAT5e runs that were used as VoIP and I can watch a few how-tos in order to learn how to re-terminate the ends at the wall and in the basement and put them through a little patch panel. The wall ports aren't ideal locations for some of the devices, but, they'll do for now. I currently have a Netgear RBR50 w/ 1 satellite wifi mesh, no POE devices, and only a few devices I'd need/want to hardwire. What drove this whole idea of re-wiring the house was the concept of wired backhauling the mesh and getting TVs, PCs, and printer off the wifi and keeping only mobile devices on it. My questions:
I will add additional questions if I think of any. Thanks for the help/suggestions! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Jun 2021 05:23 PM PDT Hello, Just cannot wrap my head around this. Please help clear this up and tell me my options. I am trying two separate my home network into two physical networks - LAN 1 and LAN 2, using pfsense firewall. LAN 1 subnet = 10.47.1.0/24(This is my main network) LAN 2 subnet = 10.47.2.0/24(This is my second network that I don't want to interfere with the main) Current Setup: ISP Modem -> Linksys Router (which will be called LAN 1) I do not want to plug the ISP modem directly into the pfsense firewall . If pfsense goes down or something breaks, then everything goes down and my hubby will be mad. I cannot have everything depend on the pfsense box (Internet wise I guess) I want to to able to route between LAN 1 and LAN 2 though. I'm trying to separate my lab/play around stuff onto a separate network where I won't be able to mess up anything on the main network or internet. [link] [comments]  |
| Configuring a new instance of TP-Link Omada on a company network, changing the default LAN/IP Posted: 01 Jun 2021 06:08 PM PDT Greetings, I'm evaluating the Omada line (OC300 and EAP660HD for testing purposes) to replace my UniFi installation, but am stumbling right out of the gate with the LAN configuration. I have the following (abbreviated list of) VLANs:
Here's what I've tried so far:
So, I've reset the '300 to factory and am going at it again. This time, I have everything running (as a test) on the 1.0/24, the '300 got a DHCP address, the 660hd got a DHCP address, it adopted and everything is peachy. except that I can't keep it there, because I need the APs to be on the 254/trunk to pass all the other VLANs that I need them to. I think my problem is that the OC300 wants it's LAN address to be where it first gets set up from (in my case, the 1.0/24), and I can't find a way to change it. Compounded by not being able to issue DHCP on the 254 to either the '300 or the 660hd. I'm wondering, now that I have control of the 660 on the 1.0 and can change its settings (to, say a 254.0 address...), if I had a second controller on the 254.0, could I then adopt an already-adopted AP? Where else am I going wrong here? [link] [comments]  |
| Thinking about upgrading to Wi-Fi 6 Posted: 01 Jun 2021 07:40 PM PDT I currently have an Orbi ac3000 mesh system and was thinking about upgrading to an Wi-Fi 5 system my home is 3500 sqft and I'm taking suggestions on what type of Wi-Fi 6 mesh system to get [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for a router to run several unify APs Posted: 01 Jun 2021 07:23 PM PDT My current set up is a unify AP plugged into an old tp link router with wifi disabled. It's fine for our current place but I'm moving to a bigger house and I will probably add one or two more APs, and I plan to run Ethernet to 3 or 4 rooms for TV's and office computers. I don't really care about staying on the unify ecosystem. I don't really like the dream machine because I don't necessarily want an AP in the same spot as the router and modem. I'm not really one to tinker with settings after setting up the network so I just want something that works. So basically I just need a decent router with about 8 Ethernet ports. POE would be nice but it's also not that big of a deal to use adapters. Or should I get a POE switch for all the APs and plug that into the router? I have never used a switch before. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Jun 2021 10:04 AM PDT So we have ~100ft ethernet cable that runs from the living room to the play room, it has been smashed between the door causing issues while playing online games. It runs through the attic though, and unfortunately it would be pretty diffulicult to just go up into the attic and replace it as it's a tight squeeze.. My first thought was to tape the end of the new cable to the end of the old cable and simply pull the new cable through, while pulling the old cable out. Any idea if this will actually work? Any other suggestions? I considered splicing and repairing the part that has been shut in the door, but the cable is so old, I figure it would be better to just replace it. Appreciate any input, thank you! [link] [comments]  |
| Home Network Problem - ISP guy is unavailable since over a month Posted: 01 Jun 2021 08:37 PM PDT Hello! I've recently moved to a new apartment in which they provide Fibre optic internet with their dedicated router (mandatory to opt) which is fixed in the centre of the room. My room is few metres across so I called up an electrician to get my LAN cables from inside the electrical boards next to that "fixed" router to my room. This LAN is a default RJ45. Everything seems to work well until.. Two main issues : - If there is a power surge, the dedicated router directly turns off. This hampers my work/game which tends to be frustrating. - Every morning, once I turn on my PC, there are 5-10 random internet disconnections every 3 seconds. It disconnections and reconnects automatically. Unable to figure out the root cause of this issue as WIFI is always connected (no problem here) and LAN cable is always "glowing" on the LAN socket/CPU even during those disconnections. I am planning to see for a different ISP, that will not provide a dedicated router so that I can directly connect the lan wire to my 5Ghz channel router. Questions : - Is it possible to connect the fibre optic cable directly to my router my not using their router? - How do I connect my lan cable which is coming from the dedicated router on to my personal router? As the ISP guy is unavailable and I am unable to see the security options and other configurations on that router. Really need some help here on my options. [link] [comments]  |
| Testing line quality with Unifi? Posted: 01 Jun 2021 08:33 PM PDT I reused some old cat5e runs in a warehouse I just bought and I'd like to check the quality of the line. I'll have a Switch Flex Mini at the terminus and a dream machine pro and 16port switch at the origin. I'd like to know: if signal strength is adequate If there's any packet loss or noise. What the available POE voltage is at the switch. I'm pretty new to Unifi so I apologize of this is noob stuff. [link] [comments]  |
| 4g lte wifi grandfathered account from eBay Posted: 01 Jun 2021 08:00 PM PDT Hello, I have a question for anyone who has any info. I live in a rural area with not many internet providers. I found a way to receive a grandfathered account off eBay where I would pay and rent the account from the person providing the SIM card. Is there any liability or security issues I should be worried about??? And if so do you have any recommendations on what I should do? [link] [comments]  |
| Mesh Nodes with different channels? Posted: 01 Jun 2021 07:40 PM PDT Can having mesh nodes on different channels cause dropouts? I have been using the channel finder method for my Linksys Atlas Max 6E, but it assigns different channels to different nodes. Insane drops out. I went into the web interface and manually chose the same channel for all the nodes per Wi-Fi band. My dropout issue seems to have gotten better but I'm not sure if This is the ideal solution. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Jun 2021 03:54 PM PDT I am running a wireguard server in which I would like to control network pretty tightly. Because of this, the client server is not able to ping any other servers and the game server installed on the client are not able to update. I'm trying to get a list of ports and their protocols that I need to open in order for things to work. I've got:
Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Jun 2021 07:17 PM PDT I have what I am told is ATT fiber. Im capable of gigabit speeds with my current infrastructure but we only pay for around 400 I believe. Im getting over 300gbits commonly on download speed, but rarely ever more than .5 on upload. I've spent months trying to fix this including trying to buy a new router, spending hours on multiple occasions talking to att (I swear I feel like I know more than them about their own terrible product which is incredibly frustrating), and pretty much anything else I can try. This is practically my last hope. This doesn't happen on a hardwired connection, but unfortunately my house only has Coax ran and no ethernet. I can run a 100ft ethernet cable directly to the router down my stairs through the house, but obviously thats not going to work either. I've tried using a PoE adapter, but then ATT't TV doesn't work. Im literally at my wits end here and its driving me absolutely insane. My current setup is running the ethernet cable to a room directly above the router and plugging it into a wifi extender ATT sold me. That makes the download speeds better, but not upload. Somebody please help!!! [link] [comments]  |
| Sharing WiFi from a Pi to the WAN port on a router? Posted: 01 Jun 2021 03:30 PM PDT I'm about to move into an apartment that has a single shared WiFi network included with the rent. I'm going to use it (for now) but I want to use my own router, especially since I have a lot of IOT devices and I know from experience that they can crush weaker routers. I have a Raspberry Pi 3 that isn't doing anything, so I wanted to use it as sort of a bridge. The plan is to connect it to the shared WiFi, then connect the Pi to my personal routers' WAN port, and share it that way. I've been trying in Ubuntu to get it working using the "Share to other computers" option for both the WiFi and LAN adapters, but so far I've had no luck. Is there some other way I should be doing this? Oh also the router I'm trying to use is an ASUS AC-87U. [link] [comments]  |
| Cradlepoint / Unifi IPSEC tunnel Posted: 01 Jun 2021 07:15 PM PDT Hey /r/HomeNetworking! I've run into a bit of a pickle. I've been running a cradlepoint in my car for a while with a few devices including a dashcam, Raspberry pi, and whatever phones are in the car. This has been working great and I'm able to send car telemetry data back to my server at home with mqtt. What I'm looking to do is create an IPsec tunnel from the cradlepoint to my Unifi Security Gateway Pro at home so I don't have to expose mqtt. I've been beating my head against a wall for the past week trying to get this to work. I'm able to get the tunnel gets stuck in IKE Main_3 and then fails and retries. I've let open 10 or 12 connections before restarting the cradlepoint, only for it to start trying again. Some details about the devices:
Here's the ipsec.conf that I'm trying to use. Any help would be greatly appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| This is really bad and I'm not sure how to fix it. Posted: 01 Jun 2021 07:07 PM PDT https://share.pingplotter.com/86N7ikyWUw1.png| 100% Packet Loss just to the router? How is that possible? [link] [comments]  |
| With new fiber infrastructure coming to my area, will my ping improve? (speculatory) Posted: 01 Jun 2021 10:13 AM PDT Context: I am in Pinellas county, Florida. I used to have spectrum and they were horrible. They routed all of my traffic to Kansas before sending it back to the east coast servers I was connecting to for gaming. They told me this would never change and to go F myself (in nicer words). When WOW broadband came and ran new lines in my area, I immediately switched and the tracert showed much more favorable routing, and my ping improved significantly (from 120+ on average to ~40ms). Now, Frontier is putting fiber in my area, and I'm wondering if my ping will improve even further. I already have half gig (500 down service, realistically getting more like 550 down), but speed is really moot after about 50 down for gaming, and ping is what concerns me more. Question: Do you think getting the fiber will improve my average ping? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 01 Jun 2021 06:42 PM PDT I've been running OC200 to handle a mesh network with 4 EAP225 for several months. Recently, after a period of intermittently bouncing online and offline, the controller has gone fully offline. It still appears to receive uplink, and transmit downlink, but the cloud indicator will not light up. The firmware is at 3.2.12. What are my options? I'd rather not do a factory reboot and re-link all my smart devices if I don't have to... [link] [comments]  |
| Don't know what I'm looking for Posted: 01 Jun 2021 12:06 PM PDT Currently using a modem from Cox but want to get a better one, it's just I don't know what's better. Or if I need a router, to get a improved connection for gaming. Currently have gigabit interent with 2 pc's, 1 console and 2 Tvs and 4 phones connected. Not really sure what I'm looking for at all or what someone who knows about all this would get for themselves. [link] [comments]  |
| I need help buying a router that isn't awful Posted: 01 Jun 2021 05:47 PM PDT There may be a better way or sub to do this but I'm very over this search and I'm hoping someone with some actual experience with this will help me find what I'm looking for. If this is the wrong place for this please let me know. I didn't see that I was going against any community guidelines and couldn't find help in previous posts. The past month I've bought and returned 3 routers that all advertised having high Wi-Fi capability, and ended up 1/10 of what they advertised, if that. The three routers I went through were:
I currently have an internet connection around 600-700 mbps with direct connect, which is more than I need. However we have a bunch of devices that require a Wi-Fi connection and each of these routers capped out anywhere from 30-50 mbps. Our apartment is a 2 bedroom that has maybe one wall between router and bedroom that's about 20 feet from the router location, but each of them rarely increased in performance even if the device was within 3 feet of the router. I'm not sure if I'm simply missing some router update that needs to be done in order to achieve the speeds that are advertised, or if my modem is causing some sort of issue with the Wi-Fi, but I'm just sick of losing money on returning products that don't advertise themselves properly. I'm not sure how realistic this is but I'm hoping there is a relative cheap(under $200) option for a router that will deliver 1/3rd of my direct connect speed throughout our apartment. Anything that can manage putting out 150-200mbps or more for more than 30 feet, I would be ecstatic. Maybe that's just not possible with my budget, but if anyone has any idea why all these routers seem to have such a extreme difference between performance advertised and actual performance, that would help. I understand products always say "speeds up to" and that speed is almost never accurate, but the difference in these speeds makes me feel like I'm doing something wrong. Any suggestions towards a router that may solve this issue for me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! If it matters, here is the modem we are currently using: ARRIS Surfboard SB6190-RB DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem [link] [comments]  |
| Setting up MoCA with my Xfi gateway Posted: 01 Jun 2021 05:39 PM PDT Hello, I'm pretty new to home networking but did a bit of research and found that MoCA would be the best option for the house we just bought. It came with COAX cables in every room but I wanted an ethernet connection to my PC in the bedroom. Ive got my Xfi gateway located in the living room with MoCA enabled and a GoCoax WF-803M 2.5 adapter connected to a coax in my bedroom with the ethernet plugged into my PC the lan and power lights are on but the MoCA light won't turn on. And its saying "unidentified network" with no internet. Am I missing something? [link] [comments]  |
| Send/receive stuck on blink for Arris surfboard SBG7400AC2 Posted: 01 Jun 2021 01:44 PM PDT Cross posting from r/techsupport I just moved, and bought an Arris surfboard SBG7400AC2 combined modem/router to go with an Xfinity/Comcast subscription. I plugged it into power and a wall coax port. The router/wifi part seems to be working fine; I can connect to 192.168.0.1 no problem. However, when I try to set up xfinity through their app, it can't find my modem when I input the MAC Address. As a result, I can't connect to the internet The status lights look like this Power: solid Send/recieve: blinking Online: off Wireless 2.4 GHZ: solid Wireless 5.0 GHZ: solid I'm 90% sure my problem is one of the following Bad coax cable Bad coax port on the surfboard and/or a bad modem Something wrong with the wiring of my new apartment Any tips on how to troubleshoot and isolate the problem would be greatly appreciated. I can get another cable but I'm reluctant to return the surfboard until I'm sure its the problem, but I'm not quite sure how to prove that definitively. Also, if the reddit hivemind sees other potential causes of my problems, please let me know I'm trying to get in contact with other tenants (same building different floor) and see how their internet is working [link] [comments]  |
| Removing one device from ethernet breaks the internet for all other ethernet devices Posted: 01 Jun 2021 05:30 PM PDT I have ethernet running from my AT&T modem/gateway in passthrough mode to my router then to a basic unmanged switch, which then feeds into various rooms in the house. If I unplug the ethernet from a computer, say a laptop, then the network connection breaks for all the other ethernet devices, including my desktop PC, other laptop, and smart tv. The wifi works fine though. I've never encountered anything like this. It's almost like the network is pushing all its power to trying to connect the unplugged cable that it is diverted from the actual plugged-in devices. Why is this happening and how can I solve it? [link] [comments]  |
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