Accidentally saved porn in Dropbox folder that was linked to my work computer - help! Tech Support |
- Accidentally saved porn in Dropbox folder that was linked to my work computer - help!
- Noticed a process called sedsvc in my task manager, file location shows something called 'disktoast.exe'
- Many files suddenly got their size set to 0 bytes. Virus?
- What port is this please?
- My university doesn’t allow porn. Does their monitoring “filter” catch porn-related subreddits or do those fly under the radar for the most part?
- PC can not shutdown after wake up from sleep mode
- Help please! Stuck on black screen for startup, can't safe boot. (Windows 10)
- What is the best way to change my gmail address?
- NEED HELP: Upgrading my RAM
- Windows 10 1803 & 1809 abnormal behavior
- My PC (WIN10) keeps freezing, crashes (black screen) and reboots
- Can’t have stable internet connection. Help me if you can.
- How are people connecting to my wifi?
- HDMI Arc HDCP 2.2 Handshake Issues - Need Advice
- Need game or Benchmark to help diagnose a faulting Graphics card. (
- New GPU issues. Please help.
- G-keys assignment on Logitech G105
- How to force a program to use a 2nd dedicated GPU in Windows 10?
- Games on my gaming PC have started hitching/pausing briefly despite using only about 50% of available resources
- Black screen after installing new GPU
- New x470 Aorus Ultra Gaming + Ryzen 7 2700x - USB Slots not working
- If I buy an Arabic keyboard, can I type in Arabic alongside my English keyboard?
- Windows 10 keys
- Im out of options,Youtube on browser sometimes stutters and buzzes.
- Last present for my dad in hospice
| Accidentally saved porn in Dropbox folder that was linked to my work computer - help! Posted: 27 Nov 2018 04:58 PM PST The title says it all. I was home on a day off, and was doing a few catch-up tasks on my work computer. I decided to take a break, so I got out my personal computer, and started searching for some entertainment materials. One video was particularly exciting, so I saved it on my computer. The only problem was, it went into my Dropbox folder that is synced to my work computer. I didn't realize at first, until I heard a notification from my work computer. I promptly deleted it from my Dropbox folder using my personal computer, but I've been sweating all day. How does Dropbox Sync even work? I didn't save or delete anything on my work computer, but I know the Dropbox program running in the background did. I didn't open anything on my work computer, but I did check the folder afterwards to see if it was gone, and at first it wasn't, but a few seconds later it was. Afterwards, I deleted Dropbox. I know my workplace monitors internet browsing, but I don't know what other types of monitoring they have in place. The file had a few unsavoury words in it, so I don't know if it would have set off an alert of some sort. Thanks for your help, advice, and information. Edit: a few words Edit 2: people are mentioning Dropbox for business and whether my company blocks Dropbox. We don't use Dropbox for business, and my company does block Dropbox auto updates, but not the website. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Nov 2018 02:11 AM PST https://i.imgur.com/V1ZaPGd.png What the fuck is 'disktoast.exe' [link] [comments]  |
| Many files suddenly got their size set to 0 bytes. Virus? Posted: 27 Nov 2018 01:37 PM PST Prelude: I am on 2600X on Windows 7, which was moved to the new system when I upgraded (due to lack of built-in USB drivers for Ryzen for fresh installation in Windows 7 ISOs). Everything was going well when I decided to test some stuff, installed Windows 10 from a random ISO I had lying around on a spare disk and got to it. Problems started immediately: when I tried to reboot back to my main system I would get a series of BSODs, only managing to boot properly on the sixth reboot; more importantly, after I installed the graphics drivers on Win 10, the system started hardfreezing a few minutes after the boot. I googled around and found that some people reported this problem with old Win 10 builds on Ryzen, so I checked and it turned that indeed I had the very first build of Win 10. I grabbed the latest one (build 1809), reinstalled from scratch and tested everything I wanted with no freezes. BSODs on reboot to Win 7 remained, though. I removed the HDD with Win 10 and moved back to Win 7. This whole paragraph took around 3 days total, and was two weeks ago. Now the actual story: today I found out that many files on my HDDs got their sizes set to 0 bytes. There is a very peculiar pattern as to which ones got affected: those on all drives, with last modification dates being between ~2015.01 and ~2016.07, that are either zips with pictures specifically (zips with music are unaffected), .cbrs, video files or .isos (plus a few audio files), with sizes above 10 MB or so. Not all files fitting those criteria got affected, but all affected files fit those criteria (as far as I can see so far). By checking my daily backups I found out that the date of the breakage was right when I was doing this stuff with Win 10. Thinking back to it, it's possible that back then there was unexpected HDD activity while I was staring at the frozen screen waiting for something to happen (though I'm not sure that this indeed happened). All my drives are perfectly healthy, and the specificity of the files affected seems to mean that hardware problems are unlikely to be the cause. It should also be noted that the modification date on affected files was not set to two weeks ago. Also, chkdsk was reporting errors in volume bitmap and saying that less space was used than was allocated to files according to Windows. Anyway, I recovered everything from backups with no problems, but I really don't want this crap to happen again, so I'd like your help in determining what might have caused this, based on the description above. The likeliest explanation seems to be "virus", but the only site I went to on the test system was amd.com for drivers and my main system is protected by NOD32, so that seems unlikely. Could the original ISO have been infected? What are other, non-viral possibilities for causing this? Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Nov 2018 02:50 AM PST |
| Posted: 27 Nov 2018 06:25 PM PST Attempts to get to actual porn sites will be met with "adult-related" page blocker on browsers, but I done goofed and browsed a NSFW subreddit on WiFi, using the reddit app. No such page blocker. [link] [comments]  |
| PC can not shutdown after wake up from sleep mode Posted: 28 Nov 2018 03:58 AM PST Hi guys, I rencently noticed this issue with my pc. I build this pc last month and now I noticed that if I put it into sleep and then wake it up, so far so good. But then if I try to restart or shut down, the pc will stuck on the shunting down screen with the little rotating cricle thing. And if you click your mouse during this, the screen will turn black with only mouse arrow on it. Pc will stuck on this forever until I shunt it down by press the power button. If I never put my pc into sleep mode then everything is fine. I'm able to shutdown or restart it as normal. It only happens when it wakes up from sleep mode. I really need some help on this as not be able to put it into sleep mode is really not very convenient. Thanks guys Ps: the pc was fine with sleep mode and everything when I first build it and one day the problem just started. So it wasn't always like this. I7 8700k cpu Asus z370 p MOBO G.skill 3000 32gb ram Corsair cx 850 PSU RTX 2080ti gigabyte windforce oc Samsung 960 evo 500G Samsung 860 1TB Couple external hard drives Some Corsair led stuff [link] [comments]  |
| Help please! Stuck on black screen for startup, can't safe boot. (Windows 10) Posted: 28 Nov 2018 03:55 AM PST TL:DR Turn on my PC, swirly loading icon then black screen followed by a first one time error pop up and the 2nd repeating one (Sorry for poor quality). https://imgur.com/gallery/ViQ1yM8 Couldn't manage to safe boot on start with CTRL, SHIFT, Windows Key and B nor go into CTRL+ALT+DEL. Unfortunately clean boot is not an option due to having important college files on this computer so I need to be able to access it. It all went downhill after I couldn't open Windows settings up because I removed some exclusions from windows defender or so I believe which is another thing but I thought I could fix it with an old tool(windows repair tool) I used to use for Windows 7 which may have been the underlying issue or cause for all of this but then again I read it have helped others on windows 10 so either mine was outdated or another issue caused all of this. I looked online already for similar "the system detected an overrun of a stack-based buffer" but all I could find was people who already had logged in and the system functioning some what. It looks like the Sign in screen is being overrun by this stack-based buffer. I've tried unplugging, turning on, then plugging back in and turning on again, waiting and all, unplugging any unnecessary cables that may interfere. Not sure either why I get the 2nd error, my tablet is not even connected, I don't think it has much effect on anything here but I tried plugging it in just to test if there was a difference and it still showed the error the same. https://imgur.com/a/eQlVwrM PC specs if it helps with anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'll answer any questions you might also have regarding this, thanks guys! [link] [comments]  |
| What is the best way to change my gmail address? Posted: 27 Nov 2018 05:01 PM PST Basically, I had made a mistake when I was in high school and accidentally linked a gmail to my main google account, which previously didn't have a gmail opened on it yet, for the sake of this thread we will call it reallybadbandname@gmail.com. Later after my friends and I no longer used the email for our band, I disabled the gmail on the account, and went back to using my yahoo email address as my login. I am now wanting to get to use a gmail as my main email, because yahoo sucks, and I can't seem to find a workaround . I have a lot of stuff on my google account, including a google play music family subscription that is no longer available, and quite a bit of android app purchases. I also want to keep it to one account for my personal stuff, since I already have to keep two other gmail accounts (school and work) and I like having one account with everything I need to get my phone up and running if I ever need to reset it. From what I can see, there is no way to change this gmail address, but was wondering if anyone knew maybe a workaround. Thanks in advance for any help. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Nov 2018 02:04 AM PST Hi guys! I am not a techie person so I don't really know what will be compatible with my PC. Anyways, my PC is P5G41T-M LX3, I looked up on the internet to find the possible products but I only got overwhelmed. In case you are wondering why I wanted to upgrade my RAM is because Adobe Premiere and After Effects doesn't run on 2 GB RAM and 32-bit PC. I will upgrade first to a 64-bit processor before upgrading my RAM, I'm looking for the type of RAM that will be compatible with my PC, may it be 4GB/8GB RAM. Thank you in advance for your helpful replies. [link] [comments]  |
| Windows 10 1803 & 1809 abnormal behavior Posted: 28 Nov 2018 01:57 AM PST So I'm having these weird issues with the latest two releases of windows 10, while 1709 works pretty well. My issue with 1803 is the PC constantly slows down until coming to a freeze. By freeze I mean I can't even open task manager, and the start menu even though it opens on click, the buttons do not respond to any command. I have this Aida64 monitoring desktop windows that does not report any high CPU usage, RAM usage or disk drive usage, however the HDD light does come to a full stop (no blinking, turned off), and I can only hard reset the PC.Now, with 1809 I get this weird issue that I believe is related to video somehow. I'd watch youtube videos and out of the blue the audio will continue to run but the video stops, and it will only run as long as I keep the mouse moving. Restarting the browser will fix the issue, but I have to restart it from task manager. Opening Task manager while having this problem will leave the trace and the name of the button I clicked on to open the app (button for task manager if I right click the taskbar, or refresh button if I try to refresh the desktop). What I tried for both 1803 and 1809:
None of these have had any effect in fixing the issues. Reverting back to 1709 fixes everything and the only problem with this version is the random inability to detect my monitor when I power on the PC, in which case it resets the scaling so some of the apps look blurry, therefore I have to sign out and back in to apply the scaling. Is there a tool or a way to test my video card? I'm thinking it may be an issue with it. My system is a 4770k on a Z87 chipset motherboard, 16GB RAM and GTX980 GPU. [link] [comments]  |
| My PC (WIN10) keeps freezing, crashes (black screen) and reboots Posted: 28 Nov 2018 01:35 AM PST Hi all, for the last few weeks I have been struggling with the following problem: When using my Win10-PC (not under heavy load, i.e. games and stuff), from time to time it freezes for 1-2 seconds and then just goes to a black screen and reboots. Also, sometimes when I want to start the computer, the POST sound doesn't come and nothing happens apart from the fans starting to go. I have already replaced my PSU last week, since I though these problems are very likely to be caused by that. And the issues do occur less frequently - but still do occur unfortunately (approx. every 1 to 2 hours). If I look at the windows logs, there's nothing worth anything. It just says that the shutdown wasn't successful (which is obvious since it just goes to black). Here is my Speccy export: https://pastebin.com/ESL9yYqP Do you have any idea what could be the cause of the issue? I have also seen, that my RAM's frequency doesn't seem to be at the 3000 MHz where it should be according to its spec. Is that relevant? [link] [comments]  |
| Can’t have stable internet connection. Help me if you can. Posted: 27 Nov 2018 06:41 AM PST Story: Well i gave up on my ISP to change it to a WISP one. (for the upload 20down 20up). But I couldn't apply this connection because the provider told me that the building across my house is blocking the antenna. So now i don't even have an internet connection! Now this neighbor from the blocking building apllied this WISP and I'm "stealing" his internet legally lol with my TP-LINK TL-WA901ND v5. Problem: I can't have stable internet while noone uses the internet(watching the packets sent or received to the other 2 devices except mine) at a 25m distance or 20. In my opinion after searching literally everything (channels 1 6 11, channel width etc.) the problem is the quality of the connection cuz my speedtest is like 15 down 8 up(pretty good & enough for me). I NEED ALL THESE FOR STREAMING. There were times that it was really stable and could stream with 6k bitrate without problems. But the most times i cant even get stable with 3k. Maybe its the software(updated) that my access point uses and fails i don't really know! While im streaming the bitrate goes from 3k to 1k then 3k again, then 0 then 2,5 to 3k. This causes the stream to be unwatchable and the CS GO unplaylable due to ping! I'm gonna lose my brain if nothing can happen. Im working on it like 20 days! (I have access at the neighbor's router of course) [link] [comments]  |
| How are people connecting to my wifi? Posted: 27 Nov 2018 12:58 PM PST I keep changing the password but next day i see 3 people connecting to my wifi from their phones 2 androids and 1 galaxy. [link] [comments]  |
| HDMI Arc HDCP 2.2 Handshake Issues - Need Advice Posted: 28 Nov 2018 12:46 AM PST Hi guys. I'm absolutely stuck here and I'm hoping someone has the expertise to help me out. Googling hasn't helped and it's kind of a hard issue to search for as I'm not sure where the issues lies... So I bought a new soundbar recently with the hopes of utilising it's 4K HDR HDMI passthrough to link to my Xbox to my TV's HDMI ARC input. Now sound wise everything is perfect (DTS Surround) and I'm getting 4K HDR as expected, and CEC+ is working fine. However it seems to have caused issues with the HDCP 2.2 handshake as I get a error message if I try to play a blu-ray via the Xbox (stating my device needs to be HDCP compliant or something along those lines) and the Netflix app is bottlenecked at 1080 res for 2160 content. So all fingers point towards HDCP 2.2 issues. I'm just not sure where to the problem is as everything in my setup meets the requirements. The arc port is hdcp 2.2 according to Samsung, so is the sound bar and all cables. I've hard reset the Xbox, cleared the cash, rebooted my tv, powered everything off for hours and tried it all again. Nothing seems to kick start the handshake. Has anybody had an issue like this? I'm tempted to blame the TV but I just don't know. All advice welcome! My setup is, in order, is as follows:
[link] [comments]  |
| Need game or Benchmark to help diagnose a faulting Graphics card. ( Posted: 28 Nov 2018 04:20 AM PST I have a problem. I have a AMD Radeon 390X that has some issues, It crashes games from time to time and artifacts intermittently. I have tried benchmarking it with timespy, heaven benchmark, superposition, msi kombustor, furmark, and others, and at random times it will artifact either a lot or little, running msi kombustor with artifact check causes nothing alone. If i run 2 benchmarks at the same time, i can get a black screen within a few min. I sent the card it for RMA and they say that they will not run 2 benchmark stress tests at the same time as the card is not designed for this. msi kombustor and furmark at the same time black screens the card after a few min. Card has been testes in a second system with different hardware with same results. Benchmarks used so fare, Heaven, Superposition, 3D mark (all free versions), furmark, msi kombustor, to name a few. Is there anyone that can recommend a single game or benchmark that can crash this card or make it artifact easy wolfenstien 2, frostpunk crash the game sometimes, same with other gpu heavy games. I need a single game or benchmark that can reproduce what running 2 benchmarks do for this card atm Any ideas for something that can help me show that the card is defective? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Nov 2018 12:32 AM PST This is a little long and I'm not the most tech savvy person, bare with me. I purchased a new GPU today, AMD rx 570, prior to installing this I used DDU to uninstall all my previous nvidia 'stuff'. I physically installed it, installed the drivers and it worked like a beaut. 3 hours later I go to cook dinner while watching Netflix and it crashes. I reboot my PC and I realised it now only using my intel graphic card. I check device manager and my system settings, it's still showing my 570 as working - but no game is using it. The Radeon settings program even shows it as working etc. I got told to go into my bios and make it priority. I opened bios and all I could find that was kind of relevant was 'init display first'. My options were pci, PCIe x16, PCIe x8 and onboard. I took it as onboard is my integrated graphic card, so I chose PCIe x16. Still no success after rebooting. I uninstalled intel (r) HD 3000 in my device manager, disable it and it still gets used over my GPU. I restarted my PC in safe mode, ran DDU and removed all nvidia and AMD settings again. Put my old nvidia card back in, ran the driver install and it worked... uninstalled using DDU (not in safe mode) replaces with amd, reinstalled etc and what do you. Back to good old intel. I'm completely lost by this. Only difference is, I installed the nvidia after previously being in safe mode. I will try that next, with my new AMD card. But has anyone seen anything like this? Or any ideas? These are specs (nvidia is my old card) Intel(R) core i7-2600k CPU @ 3.40GHz (8 CPUs), -3.7GHz NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580, on a Windows 10 Pro 64-bit. Power supply - 650W coolermaster. New card is 'ASUS Expedition Radeon RX 570 OC edition 4GB GDDR5'. [link] [comments]  |
| G-keys assignment on Logitech G105 Posted: 28 Nov 2018 04:16 AM PST Greetings. Let me get straight to the problem at hand. On my G105 keyboard the G-keys are on default assigned to double as F-keys (F1 - F6 in my case). I reassigned them to the bindings I prefer because it became really obnoxious when I went for shift and instead I pressed G5/F5 and refreshed the site I was on. The problem is, the reassigned key commands don't work unless I have the Logitech gaming software running which is quite a paiin in the butt. Does anyone know how I could set the default setting of the G-keys or unassign them completly as a default setting so I dont have to run the Logitech software on startup? [link] [comments]  |
| How to force a program to use a 2nd dedicated GPU in Windows 10? Posted: 28 Nov 2018 04:10 AM PST I tried Windows 10's built in graphics settings and nvidias control panel. I have a GTX 970 and 1080 and am confused about why when I go into NCP, I select a program and switch the cuda cores/opengl options to the 970, it still loads on my 1080 after I restart my computer. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you for your time. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Nov 2018 04:09 AM PST Hello, I'll start with my specs; Core i7-4790K 4 GHz Quad-Core, GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB STRIX, 16GB RAM (8GB Kingston DDR3-1866Mhz and 8GB Hynix DDR3-1866Mhz), ASUS Z97-PRO Motherboard, all games installed on my SSD. Playing on my 4K Samsung OLED TV. I have noticed a problem recently with some newer games I have purchased where I will get occasional stutters/pauses, even though they are not coming close to maxing out my card, processor or RAM. First started noticing it with FFXV, so I tried turning down some settings including reducing the resolution to 1080p and turning off the 4K texture packs but it still keeps happening, even though MSI shows it only using 50% of my processor and 60-70% of my graphics card, and about 10-12GB of RAM. Sometimes it is just a brief hitch, and sometimes it is a hard pause for around a second. What's interesting the that the FPS counter remains at 60, it doesn't seem to drop during these hitches. From browsing various forums it seems that attaining a smooth 60fps at all times is extremely elusive even on powerful rigs so I decided to put up with it. However I started playing The Evil Within 2 today, a much more modest game in terms of power requirements and even this is doing it. When running the game at 1080p, it uses 5GB of RAM, 50% of my processor and 50% of my graphics card. I feel like I should be able to run it at this resolution with minimal fuss with my rig. This mainly seems to happen when I enter new areas, could it be something to do with my RAM? I also noticed that in TEW2 often new textures will load in extremely blurry for a second before sharpening up, this is most noticeable during cutscenes when the camera focus up close on a picture on the wall for example. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Black screen after installing new GPU Posted: 28 Nov 2018 12:19 AM PST Just installed an EVGA 2080ti xc ultra but getting nothing but a black screen. Wont even Post to the BIOS. I've tried everything I can think of. Resetting the card, resetting CMOS, uninstalling all of the display drivers, disabling the onboard graphics, switching power cables, trying different slots. Nothing works. Am I missing something or do I just have a bad card? [link] [comments]  |
| New x470 Aorus Ultra Gaming + Ryzen 7 2700x - USB Slots not working Posted: 27 Nov 2018 10:03 PM PST I am currently at a loss, I am generally pretty good at fixing computers, and googling my problems when I can't find a solution myself, but I am quite stuck and need some help. My USB slots on my motherboard are not working for most devices. Some devices, like small storage drives will work. But most other devices will not. When I plug an external hard drive into the USB 3.0 slot, it does not work, and my mouse and keyboard (both are usb) stop working. I have tried mostly everything I can think of, and searched the internet and could not find anything. All of the USB devices are confirmed to work on another computer, but not this one. I have tried: (in no particular order) Flashing the bios Resetting the bios Removing the cmos Updated all of my drivers Reinstalled windows 10 Installed ubuntu to see if it changed the effects on the usb slots Changed the bios settings to allow legacy usb, and uefi Upped the voltage on the DAC up usb slots Unplugging all of the extra stuff in the motherboard and just leaving the essentials Switching to a brand new psu Plugged the PSU (Both the new one and the old one) into multiple different wall sockets and surge protectors. And maybe a couple more things, but nothing has worked. Not even one time have I been able to access my external hard drive using this motherboard. The motherboard itself is nearly brand new, I got it less than a month ago, and I was very careful with the install and nothing broke. Everything else seems to be working fine, I have done stress tests, and played games, watched movies, etc. and nothing is showing any issues. Please help. [link] [comments]  |
| If I buy an Arabic keyboard, can I type in Arabic alongside my English keyboard? Posted: 28 Nov 2018 03:53 AM PST I'm currently studying Arabic and have to use the onscreen keyboard to type in Arabic as I don't know which keys correspond to each letter on my regular keyboard. It's also time consuming having to constantly switch between Arabic and English as the input language whenever I want to google something in English (otherwise I'd just buy Arabic keyboard stickers). If I were to buy an Arabic keyboard, would it automatically type in Arabic whilst simultaneously allowing me to type in English on my in-built keyboard without switching input languages? I'm using a MacBook Air and was thinking of buying the Apple Magic Keyboard. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Nov 2018 03:46 AM PST Hello guys, are windows 10 keys that you can find on ebay amazon etc. genuine ways to activate windows? If they are ok, do you have anyone who you know is reliable with these key codes? [link] [comments]  |
| Im out of options,Youtube on browser sometimes stutters and buzzes. Posted: 27 Nov 2018 11:54 PM PST So the problem started about 2 weeks ago,where I would play a game and after the game I turn on some youtube to chill,all of a sudden,videos start stuttering and making a loud buzz sound for a second. Not playing games before opening youtube doesn't give any issue at all.I've recently went to RMA my card but they're positive after their testing that there is nothing wrong with my graphics card,I also tried different browsers/clearing cache and history/checked my internet speeds and they were fine but none them doesn't seem to solve it ANY and ALL help would be greatly appreciated,I don't know what I can do anymore. I5-4570(Stock cooler and OEM mobo) GTX 1070TI 500w PSU 2x 4GB RAM [link] [comments]  |
| Last present for my dad in hospice Posted: 27 Nov 2018 09:17 AM PST Hi , my dad just got admitted to hospice after fighting pancreatic cancer for 6 months. My dad is loving the comfy hospital bed, kind staffs and volunteers, and the time with me and my mom. But theres one thing missing. WiFi in his room. Since he doesnt speak or underatand english, the only way he could watch TV (korean) is through his tablet. But with the hoslital building being super old, I cant seem to catch any wifi signal. There is strong public wifi about 15-20 steps away, but nothing in my dad's room. The wifi is a public network (the kind in mcdonalds,starbucks, tim hortons ; agree to certain terms every 3 hours or so). Is there any way of boosting the wifi signal? This would help a lot of families and patients around my dad's room. I've looked into travel routers where you can MAC clone, but i couldnt find a solid instruction to follow. And another idea that just popped up is to bring my laptop , hook it up to a beefy external wifi antenna , and turn on wifi hot spot from my latop. Any help would be very much appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
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