Home Networking Solutions for a four story 2565 sq ft college home with 7 guys and no Ethernet ports, but with Gigabyte speed from CenturyLink fiber |
- Solutions for a four story 2565 sq ft college home with 7 guys and no Ethernet ports, but with Gigabyte speed from CenturyLink fiber
- Mikrotik vs UniFi wifi?
- Ethernet disconnects every few minutes
- Major Wifi Problems
- Sharing files over the internet...opinions needed....
- Second router as WAP, need help configuring.
- Planning new home construction. Looking for advice about home network setup and hardware.
- Get a better router / AP or go mesh
- Ubiquiti - UAP-AC LITE vs LR - Home Use
- Help with new move setup
- Multiple switches to my PC and PS4
- Technicolor C2100T vs. Actiontec C1000A - how to compare?
- Need help achieving closer to 150mbps hardwired.
- Hub versus switch?
- host resolving issues, suggestions needed
- if I use an ASUS RT-N16 as a VPN client so that anything that connects to it is tunneled thru a VPN will it still resolve local DNS traffic?
- Bypassing CGNAT via SSH on Windows for gaming
- TP-link router seems to be creating multiple instances of items with different MAC addresses
- Issue with MoCA after tech visit
- fq_codel stats on everything
- Little bit confused about a moca setup.
- Trying to Bridge a Router/Modem to a Router with Slow Speeds
- Please help me get better wifi speeds, do I need a router or to change modem/router combo settings.
- Standalone Firewall vs. Firewall built into gateway
| Posted: 02 Sep 2018 05:16 PM PDT Hi, I'm looking for help for a rather tricky situation in a four story house (basement, main floor, and two above). We have gigabyte speed from centurylink for a great price ($75/month) and we are currently using a single TP-Link AC1750 router on the main floor. Obviously this isn't enough for all the floors and for all the guys in the house, and the wireless speeds are less than ideal when in a good range. Unfortunately the house is an older college house that is not wired for Ethernet at all. I've done some research and people always recommend multiple access points for bigger houses with multiple stories, but with no ethernet ports I'm not sure what to do. Most people are fine with wifi, but I would much rather have some sort of hardwired connection in a few rooms for a PC or gaming console or whatever else. I would love to hear some solutions for our home network, whether it be a router strong enough to cover the whole house or some other solution that would be more ideal, I would absolutely love to hear it. And as my houses' "technology guy" my roommates would love some help as well haha! Thanks! If you have any questions please ask away as well! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Sep 2018 02:58 PM PDT Hello guys, want to make wifi coverage better at home. Currently using Mikrotik CCR1009 and Mikrotik RB962UiGS-5HacT2HnT. Some days ago I got UniFi AC Lite for testing. My options: CCR1009 + UniFi AC Lite or CCR1009 + RB962UiGS or CCR1009 + Mikrotik (which?) I want nice coverage with nice speeds (have 1gbps/100mbps at home). Can you give me your tips, ideas, recommends? Thank you so much. [link] [comments]  |
| Ethernet disconnects every few minutes Posted: 02 Sep 2018 04:43 PM PDT Hello, I hope you guys can help me with an issue on my Windows 10 LTSB PC. Here's my current setup: NETGEAR Gigabit ProSafe 5 Port Gigabit Switch (GS105) NETGEAR R7000 Router (Switch is plugged into router) XFINITY modem/router combo (In bridge mode) (Will replace soon it's a POS) On my computer, every few minutes the Ethernet will disconnect (it will show the WiFi icon instead of the Ethernet icon, or show the Ethernet icon with a yellow ! icon on it), and then after a few seconds the connection is restored. I don't think it's the switch's fault as I have a 2nd computer on the switch (it's an OLD PC from 2008 with a 100 controller BTW) and it works just fine, so I suppose it's Computer 1's fault (my PC). Can someone help me? I'm willing to provide all the info I can. I don't have a static IP on Computer 1, and both computers are set to use CloudFlare's DNS (because fuck Comcast's). [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Sep 2018 05:51 PM PDT Hey guys, Noob here. So I live on the Gold Coast, Australia in a townhouse which is shared with 4+ others so you can imagine my wifi speeds on the standard (ISP sent) all in one modem. It's trash AF. I'm switching my isp to Optus soon and the plan includes adsl2+ which is supposedly much better than adsl (I have no clue) because nbn isn't available til next year. They can either send there standard modem which is 99$ or there "ultra fast" premium modem which will cost $159. All I need to know and get help with is: - What should I buy? (Any recommendations) - What should I do? They don't tell me a specific speed I would get all it says is "speeds may vary from various factors" blah blah blah. Sorry for the novel and tia. [link] [comments]  |
| Sharing files over the internet...opinions needed.... Posted: 02 Sep 2018 12:34 PM PDT Okay so i searched and didn't see this talked about before. I know i have done this before years ago but i for the life of me cannot remember how. I want to be able to share a windows folder remotely, meaning not in my home network but via the internet. So i know i can setup a VPN and do it but then all the internet activity would go threw my home internet and i don't want that long term. So i pretty much want to share a folder on my home PC with my parents so they can just copy whatever they want and it will copy to my PC and be a backup on my PC since i have a RAID setup for backups and such.... With the point being my parents, they won't be able to open a FTP client each time, or connect to the VPN and rememeber to disconnect once they are done and so on and so on.... TLDR; Wanna share a windows folder remotely via the internet, not within my local network or with a VPN. [link] [comments]  |
| Second router as WAP, need help configuring. Posted: 02 Sep 2018 07:20 AM PDT I am trying to use a spare BT router as an access point to give wifi to the back of the house. watched videos and guides to do this, but unable to get/understand configuring the ip address of the second router. As a result devices 50% of the time fail to obtain an ip address. When following the guides, the address that i think i meant to change it to is " Not allowed" . If anyone can help me out that would be great. Images for the current config below. Edit:seems to be working fine now, so going to wait till power-line adaptors come and see if that effects it or it just stops working again. Thanks for the help. [link] [comments]  |
| Planning new home construction. Looking for advice about home network setup and hardware. Posted: 02 Sep 2018 04:23 PM PDT
Some notes:
Some of my main questions:
Thanks in advance for any help! [link] [comments]  |
| Get a better router / AP or go mesh Posted: 02 Sep 2018 07:49 PM PDT I'm currently considering between the two options of getting a good strong router / AP or shell out more money and get a mesh-wifi that has a dedicated backhaul channel like netgear orbi (or any cheaper ones that's almost as good) Internet speed: 100 down 16 up Land size: 2400 square feet, 2 storey concrete house. Actual building area is probably 2000 square feet. House structure is actually really good for wifi signals, wifi only has to go through a single wall upstairs to anyroom and downstairs is pretty much open area without walls except to the front reception / guest living room Current router: single band asus "Ultra long range" . 80mbps speed max due to 100mbps ethernet port limitation. Router location: upstairs right in the middle Upstair's wifi coverage is not a problem. Downstair, has decent 40-50mbps download in the living room but at the kitchen / dining room area at the front it gets pretty slow. It's unlikely that we will pull ethernet cable downstairs as getting my parents to get an ethernet cable from the original position (corner room upstairs) to the current location which helps the wifi situation tremendously was already a PITA. Willing to shell out the bucks for orbi RBK50 if that's the best option, but trying to save money on where it's worth it. [link] [comments]  |
| Ubiquiti - UAP-AC LITE vs LR - Home Use Posted: 02 Sep 2018 10:53 AM PDT I live in a 1923 1,500 sqft house with thick wood shiplap walls, no wiring and looking to extend my wifi coverage. I know I would be better off in general to wire it all but it's not in the cards at the moment. I have a Surfboard SBG6580 router. I know the wifi signal from the router is not good. Router lives in the front 1/3 of the house. As of right now I purchased and UAP AC LR and 2 UAP AC Lites . The UAP AC LR is connected LAN to the router and using it has my wifi network, turned router wifi off. I have placed 2 AC Lites in the back corners of my house to extend into the backyard and detached garage. I get 115 down in the room with the LR(which is what I pay for) and 50 mbps in the backyard, which is good enough for now. So all seems to be working well, I knew I would halve my speed and signal in the backyard without wiring. But my question is: I have read the LR is not good for home use but don't really understand why. But replacing the LR with a Lite connected to the router does not extend as far? Floorplan https://imgur.com/rQo5RK3 Edit: I get 115 down on my iPhone, but my 2010 macbookpro only gets 50 down [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Sep 2018 03:50 PM PDT I'm setting up internet at my new place, the internet is from xfinity and the speed is 1gb. I have a modem in mind I just wanted to see if I can get some input before buying. Also need help figuring out a good router. Extra info: 6 people using the internet. [link] [comments]  |
| Multiple switches to my PC and PS4 Posted: 02 Sep 2018 07:13 PM PDT Currently I have one switch that runs a cable around my room to my PC and PS4. I'm thinking of moving my PC to my desk rather than having it across the room (hdmi comes out through the wall where my desk and monitor are). I want to use the ethernet that's going to my PC and PS4 into another switch so I won't need to run another 50ft ethernet around the room. My question is will my PC and PS4 suffer connection wise from going through 2 switches? [link] [comments]  |
| Technicolor C2100T vs. Actiontec C1000A - how to compare? Posted: 02 Sep 2018 03:05 PM PDT Hi all. I'm not well-versed in modem and router lore and am unsure where to begin. Could you advise me? I'm comparing two products. We are currently using a C1000A . The C2100T appears to be newer. A friend was offering me their unit, so I was going to test it out, really, by setting it up and trying some speed tests. What tech / protocols are most relevant for me to look into? I'd like to milk the most out of my devices. We're currently using CenturyLink's DSL as our service. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Need help achieving closer to 150mbps hardwired. Posted: 02 Sep 2018 02:22 PM PDT So I have a Cox plan that allows up to 150mbps, however lately I have only been getting 70-90mbps. However, I am running about a 35ft cat6 cable up stairs to my PC from the modem and router which are downstairs. Modem is a Surfboard 6141, I've tried powerline adapters which do not work. Are there any cheap alternatives to get me closer to 120-130mbps consistently? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Sep 2018 01:31 PM PDT Just trying to determine what I need, cable modem and wifi router are in main living room only room with cable, managed to run Ethernet along wall into second bedroom (office) where there are two PC's so which do I need to split that cable to go into each PC from the run of Ethernet coming from the Wifi router? [link] [comments]  |
| host resolving issues, suggestions needed Posted: 02 Sep 2018 01:26 PM PDT Years ago my ISP provided me with a router, a Zyxel VMG8324-B10A, it acts as a DHCP server as well. Since always I have resolving issues in my network. For example, my printer has a static IP configured in the router but it's switched off most of the time. When I switch it on, it doesn't appear in the router client list for quite some time. This means I can't actually use the printer. Once in a while all seems fine and connecting to the printer actually works immediately. The same goes for Windows 10 machines that are added to the network, sometimes they see each other, sometimes they don't. It's literally different every day. Linux vm's that have smbclient installed and are always on don't display this behaviour. On any given day I have about 20 connected devices (vm's, phones etc). Is there any way to perform conclusive troubleshooting? I'm quite done with it and I want a rock stable network that immediately responds to machines that are added or removed. What is the best way to go forward? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Sep 2018 09:37 AM PDT What I planned on doing in the coming week was buying an RT-AC56U for our main home network (10.0.0.1/24) and also an RT-N16 (10.0.9.1/24) to run as VPN client so that anything that connects to it is behind a VPN but I was wondering if the N16 would still resolve local dns request? so it would end up looking like: -- SB6183 cable modem --- AC56U (10.0.0.1/24) wan port connected to the single port on SB6183, SSID _good_luck_buddy_ ---- N16 running as a VPN client (10.0.9.1/24) wan port connected to LAN1 on AC56U, static IP issued by AC56U as 10.0.0.50, SSID _the_feds_is_watchin_ the reason I ask is because I will have a torrent box and a pi behind the N16 but I'll want to log into them via ssh with local addresses (10.0.9.60 & 10.0.9.50 respectively) [link] [comments]  |
| Bypassing CGNAT via SSH on Windows for gaming Posted: 02 Sep 2018 01:21 PM PDT Hi guys. I have nowhere else to ask this so creating a post here. Lately I've been struggling through this CGNAT thing. So the tl;dr story is my mobile carrier ISP here in India is using CGNAT and I'm sharing my global IP with people in my circle. I've emailed them and the authorities to no avail. This is quite common in India. Anyway, so I figured they're probably not going to help me and I took it upon myself to solve this issue. I had a google cloud account with 1 year free so I created an instance specifically for this purpose and allotted it a static IP. To test the basics (SSH), I opened up port 8022 on google's firewall and then on the remote server using iptables. I forwarded it to a webserver (port 22) sitting behind my router. This way I created a reverse SSH and bypassed CGNAT. Now the problem - I cannot run p2p games requiring PF on my windows machine behind the same router. So I am trying to use this SSH port forward thing to direct all my traffic through the ports on my windows PC to the relay server and from that relay server to other peers. How do I get this done in Windows? I can simply install OpenSSH on Linux and ssh through the terminal with additional options but how do I get this done in Windows? What are the commands? Can I achieve what I want using PuTTY? Please help me regarding this. [link] [comments]  |
| TP-link router seems to be creating multiple instances of items with different MAC addresses Posted: 02 Sep 2018 12:00 PM PDT I recently bought a new router (VR600) to facilitate my home IoT network. I've been experiencing problems which I will outline below, but please forgive me if I use the wrong jargon or terminology. My home automation requires most devices to be on a fixed IP address so that it can continue communicating to my lamp on 192.168.1.103 for example. I have had to turn my router off and on once or twice and every time I did that the IP addresses all changed. So I went in to the router, went to LAN settings and "Address Reservation" assigning the relevant IP addresses to the various things. I have also named my items in the network to make it easier for me to know what they are (e.g. instead of HS110 I have put "Electric Fireplace"). I have just noticed "Fireplace" pop up on the ip address I have assigned to it as well as a second entry called HS110. Both have different mac addresses with the "Fireplace" entry on a completely different mac address to what it should be. Likewise, my computer has been given a MAC address that is different to it's actual MAC address. The first problem I had related to this was with my iPhone which would generate lots of different MAC addresses - I originally figured this could be related to the iOS MAC randomization feature (which I did not notice on my last two routers) but now that this has happened to other identities I get the feeling it might be a router thing. The thing that strikes me as interesting is that most of these "new" MAC addresses start with "AE-xx-xx-etc." What is going on with my router? Is there a setting I haven't found that generates new MAC addresses for my devices? Is there a way to disable or change this for a more consistent experience? Every time I set my home automation software up I need to change it again. [link] [comments]  |
| Issue with MoCA after tech visit Posted: 02 Sep 2018 11:54 AM PDT I've been using MoCA in one of my rooms as opposed to paying money to run Ethernet through the house. MoCA is generally very easy to set up and has served me well, but I have ran into a big issue ever since a tech came to fix the cable after a power surge during the night ruined it. I'm unsure of how the main box looked before he visited which really sucks but can describe the configuration of moca within my network. It starts off with coax to moca which then passes to the modem, the modem goes to a switch with my moca Ethernet plugged in. (I can provide pictures of the main box if necessary too). This worked fine for years. So what's the problem? The cable tech told me one of the two amplifiers went bad during the surge, so he put everything onto one amp since we forfeited 3 cable boxes in favor of Roku to save money (3 less coax cables). Since then, the moca adapter in a particular room doesn't link with the "main" moca unit that passes to the modem, which makes it non-functional. Of course this led me to believe the coax cable wasn't plugged into the amplifier, but it is. My digital cable box in that room that operates out of the same outlet works fine. I began to gather more information and took the moca unit to other areas of the house. In all other rooms with an outlet plugged into the amp, it works fine. How can this be? I even unplugged the coax cable in question that leads to the room I want service in and then plugged moca directly into that outlet on the amp and it linked just fine, but won't link when it's plugged into the coax that goes to that outlet. There are 5 coax cables not plugged into anything that the tech said are useless if cable boxes aren't being used in those areas. Is it possible some of those are pertinent to getting moca working in that room? My question is what could the tech have done that created this wonky behavior? Is it a matter of signal degradation? Is the amp bad? It's frustrating to troubleshoot and any help would be great. Thanks for reading. Edit: /u/ooferomen helped me through with the issue, it has been resolved. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 02 Sep 2018 11:42 AM PDT I see that a lot of folk here are now aware of bufferbloat, fq_codel, sch_cake and smart queue management (SQM). Universally (aside from running out of cpu), the reports are positive, which makes me happy (and happier still that y'all seem to "get" it). What I'm interested in finding out though, are what are the drop/marks per day people are seeing in their deployments? Recently I started calling these "debloats/day", because I know that every drop is preventing a 500+ms latency excursion on my campus network (3000/day inbound on just the main gateway, 12,000 on my wifi networks, 100+ outbound), and I feel good every time a packet is lost in this cause. How many drops/marks a day are y'all getting with normal traffic? (I monitor these with mrtg personally) In linux the command to see this is "tc -s qdisc show dev yourdevice" [link] [comments]  |
| Little bit confused about a moca setup. Posted: 02 Sep 2018 10:07 AM PDT I am currently using PLA, and I am not getting enough juice from it. I was thinking about picking up some MOCA adapters. Though I am little confused on everything I need I am on the first floor, there is a modem and a router Current Topology: C|Outlet => C|Modem => E|Router There's also a bigger room outside of the room with the topology above. This has a Cable box for TV but it's on a completely different outlet. Now my room is (slash office LOL) is on the same floor I am currently using a PLA for a connection but it's not strong. I believe I need 2 mocas, A splitter, and more coax cables? I was also a little curious on the Topology I would need in Room A (modem room) and Room B (My Room) Here's a crude diagram https://imgur.com/a/4Dd4kx1 [link] [comments]  |
| Trying to Bridge a Router/Modem to a Router with Slow Speeds Posted: 02 Sep 2018 05:37 AM PDT Hi All, I have a new D-Link AC3200 DIR-890L and an old F@ST™ 4315U Modem, given to me by my ISP. As the AC3200 DIR890L is not a modem, I need to turn the F@ST into a bridge and get it to stop performing Router functions and only perform Modem functions. I hit the little box, turned both devices off and on, and I'm good. I've been experiencing extremely slow speeds since this point. I used to get 10-14Mb/s, now with this as a bridge, I'm getting 1.5-4Mb/s I reset everything and started to use the AC3200 as an AP rather than a Router and reignited the router functions on the F@ST. This did allow me to regain speeds, but there were noticeable packet drops and I lost all functionality of the DIR-890L (QoS) Does anyone have any suggestions? [link] [comments]  |
| Please help me get better wifi speeds, do I need a router or to change modem/router combo settings. Posted: 02 Sep 2018 08:53 AM PDT So Im using ATT's 5268ACFXN modem router combo, just upgraded to 1000mbps but only getting 250 at best. on this PC I have ASUS Wi-Fi PCI Express Adapter (PCE-AC56) which states I can get up to 800+mbps. So can someone help me find my bottleneck? Should I get a different router/modem? ATT states this is the latest one and capable. any help would be awesome, thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Standalone Firewall vs. Firewall built into gateway Posted: 02 Sep 2018 08:32 AM PDT I am currently planning the network setup for my new house and I was wondering about getting a standalone firewall. I know my Fios Quantum gateway has an internal firewall, but is there any benefit to using a standalone firewall? My network setup is a work in progress, but right now I am planning to run 2 cat6a outlets to every bedroom, plus several other outlets around the house, and a at 4-6 to both my den and home theater for the TVs' accessories. So I know I'm going to need a rack mounted patch panel (24 Port) and managed switch. Plus I'll home automation with Samsung SmartThings using 1-2 Connect Home hubs (that I can use as routers) and Arlo surveillance cameras. So right now I'm looking trying to decide between using a Geekpub Wanbox with PFSense using the WAN cord from the Fios ONT or the source or using the Fios Gateway as the source? [link] [comments]  |
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