Updated Monitor Buying Guide |
- Updated Monitor Buying Guide
- I figure it's time to talk about "future proofing".
- friendship ended with 770, now 1070 is my best friend
- Any recommendations for a good fan splitter/hub?
- Will the Asus 1080 strix fit in the NZXT H440 case?
- Is the graphics card I'm about to buy gonna get bottlenecked with my current specs
- My first build since i was 10 years old (2001)
- This is my list, thoughts? Also do i need this much of a power supply
- Cases with front USB-C?
- Built a PC last month, but sudden GPU issues occurred.
- I plan on purchasing this pre-built PC in a couple of days . Is is worth the price and am I able to upgrade the CPU and/or the GPU ? Also , Will I need a new motherboard to do so ?
- My corsair 275r didn't come with an accessory kit.
- Finalising my first build - how does this look?
- RGB/ARGB Situation Help
- Pc won’t turn on and only one white light shows up on the gpu
- Hello, I just built my first pc . And can not install gpu driver :( any ideas?
- Um, hi again this time for an error
- Buy a $1200 game-capable laptop, OR, buy a $600 laptop and build a $600 PC
- Good Chair for Back Pains
- First PC motherboard boots bios but GPU doesnt
- How do I add an old hard drive to my new computer?
- can i use alcohol swabs to clean off thermal paste off cpu??
- Help finding a desk worth it?
- Building tonight!
| Posted: 28 Jul 2018 07:00 AM PDT I had written this guide quite some time ago and posted it here before. But I am posting it again since I have slightly updated it here as well as in the Wiki. Any feedback is appreciated and hope it helps any who needs a relatively basic rundown for buying a monitor with going into anything too crazy. There is a lot of information and specifications to look at when it comes to picking the best gaming monitor. In this guide, I hope to answer most of your questions so you can pick the best monitor for your gaming setup. This is not the end all be all of your monitor research! Once you find a monitor that interests you, research that monitor specifically and read reviews online for a more thorough analysis. Type the monitor name into Google and add "reddit" to the end to search for other reddit discussions about that monitor. Picking a resolution and refresh rateBasic Terminology
The resolution and refresh rate of your monitor depend on 2 main factors: intended use and GPU. Intended Use - Gaming For gaming, the 5 most common resolutions and refresh rates are as follows:
Higher resolution= better image quality Higher Hertz= smoother potential video appearance (I say potential because it really depends on the fps your GPU is producing) At this point, I would like to point out a common fallacy of calling 1440p, "2K". 4K is called "4K" because it has nearly 4,000 (3,840) columns of pixels. Therefore, 2K is actually 1080p, as 1080p has nearly 2,000 (1920) columns of pixels. So which do you pick? This now depends on what types of games do you like to play. These are generic guidelines that should not be taken for fact. Both rely on preference and are based upon the general census of monitor buying among gamers.
But what about the resolution? This is where it gets tricky. This depends on the games you play, GPU you have, and what you want to get out of gaming.
These are only recommendations. Cards less powerful than what is listed can utilize a monitor's full potential, it just depends on how demanding a game is. It is important to look at benchmarks for the games you play with the GPU you own. (Note: GPUs are paired with monitors where they can nearly max out all settings on recent AAA games at the native resolution and obtain an fps equal to or near the refresh rate. You can use any GPU on any monitor (assuming correspondence of GPU output and monitor input)) Example: 1440p 60hz vs 1080p 144hz This is probably one of the most asked questions for buying a monitor for a gaming PC. If you play story games/RPGs such as Witcher 3, Fallout 4, etc, the 1440p 60hz might be for you. If you play multiplayer games like Call of The resolution and refresh rate of a monitor should be paired with the capabilities of your GPU and the intensity of your games (Ex. Witcher 3 at 1440p is more demanding on hardware than League of Legends) Intended Use- Productivity/Everything Else Well, for the few of you here for a monitor other than gaming, you are in luck. It isn't as complicated. You most likely won't care for 144hz and 60hz will be fine for browsing the internet, watching videos, photoshopping, coding, etc. Now you just have to decide between 1440p and 1080p. Since you won't be heavily gaming, you can utilize 1440p at 60hz with less powerful GPUs or modern on-board graphics. This doesn't mean your old desktop's on-board graphics from 10 years ago will suffice. 1080p is still good picture quality, but if you are looking to step it up a notch, 1440p offers better clarity, picture sharpness, and space to move documents/open applications to all be in view at once. 4K displays have become increasingly more affordable and are also suitable for productivity set ups. Ultrawide Monitors and other Aspect Ratios If you are looking for a monitor for productivity, there are wider monitors with a 21:9 aspect ratio, giving you more horizontal screen space. There are also other aspect ratios such as 16:10. 16:10 is much less common but it is an option if you desire.
These types of monitors are good for video editing, programming, spreadsheets, and really any every day task. It really comes down to preference what you want to get out of your monitor. They are also alternatives to multi-monitor set-ups (more on this later) which some individuals don't like due to the gap between screens from the bezel width. 4K and Ultrawide Gaming True 4K has a resolution of 4096 x 2160. For the sake buying monitors, 4K refers to the actual resolution of 4k monitors: 3840 x 2160 4K and ultrawide gaming is a tricky topic with many mixed opinions. Some will claim 4K gaming is great and others swear by ultrawides, while other would prefer to stick with the more standard resolutions. 4K and ultrawides require more powerful hardware. However, this doesn't mean modern GPUs can't handle either resolution, you just may need to turn down settings and turn off anti-aliasing. Whether you want a 4K monitor, an ultrawide, or a standard 16:9 is all matter of personal preference and whether or not you will be happy with the performance your video card can perform at these more demanding resolutions. Multiple Monitor Setups and VESA mountingMany people may also want multiple monitors giving them more screen space, just as ultrawides do. The main difference is that you have 2 physical monitors. If you will be gaming across both monitors at the same time, look for monitors with thin bezels (the edging around a panel). The thinner the bezel, the smaller the gap between screen and the more aesthetically pleasing the monitors will look. You may also wish to purchase the same types of monitors, or monitors of the same form factor to keep the monitors of the relative same size. If you don't plan on gaming across both monitors, you may want to designate one monitor for gaming and the other for watching videos and such. If this is the case, many users will purchase a TN panel for gaming with a higher refresh rate (and other gaming features), and then purchase a nice high resolution, IPS monitors for all of their media consumption. Be aware that buying monitors of different resolutions can cause an "issue" with scaling, or will just bother some people who drag windows across screens and they don't sync up. Of course the choice is up to whether you want all TN monitors, or a TN and an IPS, all the same resolution, different refresh rates, etc. It is important that you research more about monitor set ups and ensure what you want will work for you! VESA Mounting A lot of modern monitors have compatibility with VESA mounts. VESA mounts at a set of standards across the monitor/TV industry that allows you to mount your monitor on a monitor arm or third-party stand that uses the VESA standards. Some benefits of this are it improves ease of use and can make the monitor be on a more stable stand. DON'T ASSUME ALL MONITORS ARE VESA COMPATIBLE. If you wish to mount a monitor on a VESA mount/arm, make sure the monitor specifies it is VESA compatible! Panel Type The two most common panels used in modern monitors are TN (Twisted Nematic), IPS (In-plane Switching), each having there benefits and downsides. I will also briefly discuss VA (Vertical Alignment) panels, a panel typically described as being in between a TN and IPS. TN Pros:
Cons:
IPS Pros:
Cons:
VA
Typically, TN panels are recommended over IPS for fast paced gaming due their faster response times. Personally, gaming on an IPS panel (even first person shooters) is superior to TN. The response times are negligible and you more likely than not won't notice the difference. For everything else that isn't gaming, get an IPS without question. LCD Panel Types Viewing Angle Resources (as suggested by u/MythicalPigeon) Response time and Input LagDisclaimer: I know some of you will get heated reading this, claiming you can tell the difference between 1ms and 5ms. I believe you, but I guess not everyone else is as gifted as you are. In reality, response time is merely a marketing term. Response time is the time it takes for a pixel to turn from 1 color to another, typically measured in grey-to-grey as it is the fastest. Hence, this is a bit misleading with real world use as you're not using your monitor in black and white. Either way, the differences in response times are mere milliseconds and most gamers will not notice. Response times of monitors should not be a deciding factor. A more important factor is the input lag, or the time it takes the monitor to display an action after receiving the signal to do so. You most likely won't have to worry about this as most modern gaming monitors have good input lag times. Here is a good resource for checking input lags Adaptive Sync and Motion Blur ReducitonAdaptive Sync Adaptive sync is a technology that allows the GPU to control the refresh rate of the monitor, meaning the refresh rate is equal to the FPS output of the GPU. The point of adaptive sync is to prevent screen tearing. Screen tearing occurs when the monitor's refresh rate and the fps are out of sync. There is a common misconception that screen tearing only occurs when the FPS output is less than the refresh rate. While this is partially true, it will occur when the FPS is less than and greater than the monitor's refresh rate. The difference is that it becomes more difficult to spot screen tearing at a higher FPS. Here are examples of screen tearing There are two types of adaptive sync: NVIDIA's G-SYNC and AMD's FreeSync. GSYNC can only be used with NVIDIA GPUs and Freesync can only be used with AMD GPUs. It is important note that GSYNC requires a display port connection, while Freesync can use either display port or HDMI 1.4. I should note that Freesync is an open standard, meaning it doesn't cost extra money. GSYNC, however, is a proprietary technology, meaning monitors with GYSNC cost more. You'll hear the phrase "GSYNC tax" thrown around when discussing adaptive sync but I think it is blown out of proportion. Yes there are identical monitors where one has GSYNC and the other Freesync, and the Freesync one is significantly cheaper. But then you also have monitors such as the Dell s2417dg/s2716dg which both have GYSNC and are very reasonably priced with GSYNC. Note: An AMD GPU will work on a GSYNC monitor but it can't utilize GSYNC. An NVIDIA GPU will work on a FreeSync monitor but it can't utilize FreeSync. While it is technologically possible for either card to work with either adaptive syncs, this compatibility is blocked by NVIDIA's unwillingness to support Freesync. So is adaptive sync worth it? Yes and no. If you will be playing a game where the frame rate will be bouncing around constantly, you will benefit with either adaptive sync. However, neither is REQURIED and you can game perfectly fine without either. It doesn't hurt to get a free sync monitor, even if you have a NVIDIA GPU. Motion Blur Reduction I am not going to talk about motion blur in this guide as it isn't really a feature you are actively seeking when buying a monitor. But, if you would like to read more about it, check out this website Monitor SizeThe majority of gaming monitor will range from 24in. to 27in. with a few higher end ultrawide monitors using a 34in display. The general consensus is that 24in monitors are good for a 1080p resolution and 27in for 1440p. The most important factors of choosing a monitor size are how close you sit to your monitor and how much room you have on your desk. Many will also claim that 1080p at 27" is bad as it has a lower pixel density. While this may hold true if you sit close to your screen, it certainly isn't a deal breaker. The same is said for 1440p at 24", but for opposite reasons. The higher resolution at a smaller screen size can make text small. But there is always windows scaling (despite how good or bad it is). I myself have 24" display at 1440p and use it without scaling and have no problems what so ever. There are also curved monitors. Some people feel the curvature offers a more engaging gaming experience while others would just prefer a flat monitor. Pixel Density Pixel density refers to the amount of pixels in a given area (measured in pixels per inch). The greater the resolution and the smaller the screen, the higher the pixel density. Benefits of Higher Pixel Density
Possible Downsides
"Future-Proofing" and Monitor BudgetsFuture-proofing is a term people use when buying very high end components that will last them a long time in order to avoid having to buy new hardware often. Unlike most computer components, a monitor is one of few things you can relatively safely "future-proof". You will look your monitor every time you use your computer. Spend money on a quality monitor and don't skimp on features that you want. A good quality monitor can last you many many years through multiple GPUs and even PC builds. Monitors aren't like GPUs where the following year a newer and far superior card is out, rendering your current card performing below your expectations. A monitors resolution and refresh rate stay the same forever. The monitor should be the one of, if not, the most expensive part in your entire gaming rig. Other Small, But Important FactorsThere are many other small but significant factors that should go into buying a monitor. Do you want built in speakers? Height adjustment and Swivel? VESA mount compatible? USB hubs? Multiple input connections? A sturdy stand? Do not overlook any of these factors. While minor, they are important to consider for ease of use. Also consider the aesthetics of your monitor. Do you want it to look professional? Or stand out like it was meant for gamers who sweat Gamma labs? Monitors also differ in the fact that some are matte and others are glossy. Most people prefer matte finishes as glossy monitors easily attract finger prints. Korean MonitorsThere are multiple Korean monitor companies that sell 1440p 144hz monitors at a steal of a price. I am always weary about recommending one of these monitors. The actual screen quality isn't the issue, as they use secondary panels that didn't pass quality control of top tier companies. There is a high chance that a Korean monitor will suffer from a few dead pixels and backlight bleed. The stands on which they are mounted are also not the best and the bezels will most likely be cheap plastic. If you seriously are considering a Korean monitor, read reviews and make sure you understand the companies dead pixel policy and return policy in general. Other Monitor Resources
Additional NotesOn why you shouldn't buy the Asus VG248QE: (by u/095179005) It gets good reviews because it's not a bad monitor. Just a bad value for money. Most buyers don't know that, because the VG248QE is a popular and well-known monitor and comes up first in search results, and gets purchased by plenty of people without any knowledge of how it compares to the competition. Most of these people would be equally satisfied with any of these monitors, but all those reviews get credited to the VG248QE because it's the first result. Plus a lot of those reviews are from years ago when the choices of competing products was much different. There's no reason to keep buying the VG248QE today unless you don't know that other options exist. An excerpt I'll just give you my general recommendations for 1440p/144hz monitors. Just note that while G-Sync makes more sense for you, by running at or above 144fps at all times, you're outside of the G-Sync range and therefore not using it. However, having G-Sync makes life easier for you when you do drop below 144fps (which will happen in many games, even with that CPU/GPU combo). The Budget Option Go with the Dell S2716DG or S2417DG, depending on your size preference. Aside from size, the S2417DG features a slightly better panel capable of a 165hz overclock, and slightly better picture quality.These will typically run you in the $350-$450 range depending on sales. The Quality Option The ViewSonic XG2703-GS is considered by most to be the best in the segment here. Featuring a 1440p 144-165hz AHVA (IPS-like) panel, it has reinforced edges giving it a reduced chance of backlight bleed (duds still happen) compared to its peers. If not available, the following models offer a similar panel and similar features for a similar price - Acer XB270HU, Acer XB271HU, Asus PG279Q, and AOC Agon AG271QG. Note that in the case of Acer, they use the same model number (with a different sub SKU) for both TN and AHVA options, so double check if you go that route. This option will typically run you $600-$700. Budget and Quality, but no G-Sync Don't want the TN panel, but you do want AHVA (IPS-like)? Don't mind giving up G-Sync since you anticipate being at or above the refresh rate anyway? Get the Nixeus EDG 27. It's basically the Freesync version of the XG2703-GS. MSRP is $400 for the model with basic tilt-only stand, and $500 for the one with the height adjustable stand. You can often find them for up to $50 off MSRP. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| I figure it's time to talk about "future proofing". Posted: 27 Jul 2018 04:45 PM PDT So about a year ago, I posted what was basically a rant thread about what I call the "Bottleneck Boogeyman". The issue has calmed down somewhat, although we do occasionally get people asking if a Ryzen 1600 is going to bottleneck a 1050 Ti (or for that matter, if their FX 6300 is going to bottlneck a 1050 Ti). But as one idiotic concept dies down, another has come to rise in its place: "Future Proofing" or "How I paid a shitload of money so that I don't have to upgrade in a couple years". The idea behind it is pretty simple. You target your buying choices and/or pay for a bit higher-end performance parts, and in theory, the machine should last a bit longer without need of upgrade. In theory, I don't have a problem with this, but it's important to understand exactly what you're doing in the process and how it may not live up to your desires. So let's say that, right now, you need a machine for 144 FPS gaming at 1080p. An i5 8400 with a B360 motherboard, 16GB of 2666MHz memory, decent SSD + HDD storage and a GTX 1070..maybe a 1070 Ti would do the job, and could be had for around $1000 give or take a hundred or so (including a decent case, good power supply, etc). Now this build would be gaming-relevant on 1080p at 144Hz for the foreseeable future, but let's just say it'll be relevant for 3-5 years. But that's when the idiot gear kicks in for a lot of folks. They think, "Well I want this machine to last until the heat death of the universe, and I want (DRUM ROLL)....FUTURE PROOF." Suddenly, this build goes from a $1100 reasonably well-suited machine to a $2400 monstrosity with more lights than a damn disco, an 8700K, Asus ROG Maximus motherboard, 32GB of memory, 1080 Ti video card, and a 1kW Titanium rated power supply. Granted, you don't get any more noticeable performance difference out of it, but hey - it's "future proof". Congratulations, you're an idiot. Scenario 2: You are designing a CAD focused build, focusing on Autodesk apps. You know that Intel CPUs do better for these applications, but you want a Ryzen CPU because, "More cores and threads is .. (DRUM ROLL).....FUTURE PROOF". Yeah, the Ryzen might be slower right now, but in a few years, software development will catch up and it will be faster than Intel's stuff! Additionally, AMD is supporting AM4 until 2020, so you know you can upgrade your CPU until then! Congratulations, you're an idiot. Scenario 3: You're building a pretty basic build, you've checked on PCPP and it estimates your power usage to be around 300W. You know that your needs probably won't ever go over 500W as you don't plan on overclocking, and you don't plan on using SLI. But man.. I'm going to buy a 1000W power supply because (DRUM ROLL).....FUTURE PROOF!!!!!. Congratulations, you're an idiot. Let's look at these scenarios. Scenario 1: When I build, I have a mentality that I try to stick to: Build for right now, for what you need in the immediate future. There's a reason I have this rule of thumb. The price/performance curve always favors the midrange when it comes to computer parts. This is never more apparent when you consider the 8700K. It's 75% more expensive than the 8400, yet only offers (at most) about 40% more performance in most situations. Then there's the concept of buying 32GB of memory. Most of the time, most mainstream users will not use more than 16GB of memory. And most motherboards will have 4 memory slots. Here's where the rub comes in - you can buy 16GB of memory and add in another 16GB later if you actually need it. There's nothing to be gained right now by paying the extra ~$175. Especially since memory is inflated in price right now. There's nothing "future proof" about it. It's just wasted money. There's a bunch of other bits in this scenario that I could attack, but I'll bring up the motherboard. I've recently seen someone talk about how they were buying a ROG Maximus motherboard because "I want it to be future proof". There is absolutely nothing about those boards vs any other Z370 board that will offer support for future tech. But it all comes down to something very simple: if you actually do have a use for higher-end parts, by all means configure a machine with higher-end parts. If you're working in a scenario that you need 32GB, then get 32GB! If you need an NVMe SSD, then by all means get one! But do some research, make sure that you actually need it. Don't just justify it with "it's future proof" because oftentimes, it's not. Basically, what you're doing by paying twice the amount of money is hoping that you won't need to go through the hassle of doing a hardware change in a couple years. That's IT. On a standard 4 year timeline, a midrange machine built today will get you most (or all ) the performance you need right now, and then it can be replaced in 2 years to outperform a machine built today at twice the price. Technology will march ahead at (roughly) a constant rate. It's not like you get twice as much time out of it if you spend twice as much. More like you get 1.5 times if you spend twice as much (or less). Now let's look at scenario 2. And this is where I'm probably going to ruffle some feathers because there definitely is a bit of groupthink in this sub that AMD holds an impeachable throne of "future proof"-ness. Let me state that AMD's Ryzen CPU is a great CPU. The Zen architecture is a great one, and for a lot of folks I will heartily recommend it. But folks, it's important to recognize when your CPU architecture suits your needs and when it doesn't. And if you're going to be building a machine for AutoCAD, then you really should look at Intel. It's just hands-down faster. BUT - if you're going to be gaming and want to try your hand at streaming? Ryzen should be the CPU you're looking at. Want to do some workstation work with Cinema 4D? Threadripper is your CPU. But if you're going with Adobe Premiere, Intel HEDT is the better bet. It's important to match your CPU with your needs as there is no godlike, better than everything at everything CPU. And "more cores" is future proof? This is idiotic. If you're buying a CPU architecture that doesn't work for you right now because you're hoping that someday it will be better than the currently offered options, I don't know what to tell you. If you were gaming back in 2010 and you bought a Phenom II 1090T over an i7 930 at the same price, you simply bought the wrong CPU. I suppose now you might be sitting there on your 1090T as you read that Intel's 6-core mainstream CPUs are coming out and how it will finally cause the industry to optimize, a cackling smile might roll across your face as your scream, "I WAS RIGHT!!!" but by the time that software finally comes out, your "future proof" CPU is ancient." Finally, let's talk about "AMD UNTIL 2020!!!" and how whomever came up with that particular bit in the marketing department deserves a giant fucking raise. It has probably sold more AMD platforms than just about anything else. I still see it to this day. But here's a reality check: 2020 is ...17 months away. How much of an advancement in the next 17 months do you honestly think you'll see as far as performance? The average time in major upgrade cycles is 3 years. By the time 2020 rolls around and you're ready to take advantage of that sweeeeeet AM4 longevity, DDR5 will be coming out and people will be talking about how much of an idiot you are for dropping a new CPU into a dead platform. Finally, scenario 3: Overbuying on power supply because you think it's more "future proof". Look at microcomputer design over the recent past, and recognize that power needs in computers are going down, not up. The GTX 480, for example, used 450W of power by itself. Compare that to today's GTX 1080 and its usage of about 250W on average. All of this despite the fact that it's double the speed. Spinner hard drives are being replaced with SSDs. The power needs of DDR4 is 1.2V compared to DDR's 2.5. Hell even FANS are becoming more efficient. Ultimately, this all comes down to one major point which I've tried to make through this long, long post: Know your needs now and build your machine to suit those needs. Don't make bad decisions because you hope it'll pay off in the future. It won't. And if you are spending way over your needs right now, recognize that it probably won't last as long as you're hoping. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| friendship ended with 770, now 1070 is my best friend Posted: 28 Jul 2018 03:37 PM PDT Hello everyone. I've been wanting to build a new PC for a while, and with the GTX770 in my current build acting up (started crashing and showing BSOD in the last 2 days whenever I play a game), I think it's time to start looking for parts. Also, my brother let me use this computer and wants it back (what's left of it) so I need to build one anyway. Thoughts on the build list below? This was just something I created quickly on pcpartpicker. I have not been paying attention to recent trends in the market but a price around 1500CAD is something that I am okay with. I live in Canada so some of the sales in the US don't apply to me. (Although if anyone sees sales in Canada that would make more sense for the build below, please do share) Some background on the planned usage: Anyways, any help or feedback is appreciated!! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
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| Any recommendations for a good fan splitter/hub? Posted: 28 Jul 2018 02:23 PM PDT I have 6 Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM fans, and was originally looking at just getting a couple of the Noctua fan Y splitters, but was doing some research on daisy chains and was wondering if something like the Silverstone fan hub would be an easier and more reliable option? Any down sides? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Will the Asus 1080 strix fit in the NZXT H440 case? Posted: 28 Jul 2018 01:43 PM PDT The h440 supports up to 294mm while the 1080 strix is 298mm, and I have 2 HDDs and 1 SSD on the drive bay. Will it fit? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Is the graphics card I'm about to buy gonna get bottlenecked with my current specs Posted: 28 Jul 2018 02:35 PM PDT | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| My first build since i was 10 years old (2001) Posted: 28 Jul 2018 04:06 PM PDT Finally done setting everything up. Still would like a nicer keyboard and mouse but I'll live for now. Let me know what you think. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| This is my list, thoughts? Also do i need this much of a power supply Posted: 28 Jul 2018 11:18 AM PDT Hi, I already have a GTX 970. I am building this new pc and i dont want to go much higher in price, thoughts? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 28 Jul 2018 04:58 AM PDT Hi All, Currently looking for some case recommendations (or even if there is any sort of list) of cases with front USB-C support. For context, I'm needing an ATX case to put my new threadripper build in, and technically need a CPU cooler clearance of 172mm. Currently I'm looking at the Lian Li 330W/Alpha but that seems to have some issues with airflow according to reviews. Also in Australia, which makes it even trickier as our case selection here is smaller and shipping cases is quite costly. Thanks [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Built a PC last month, but sudden GPU issues occurred. Posted: 28 Jul 2018 11:01 AM PDT On June 30th, I built my first PC. I ran into no problems at all. My specs are as follows: Motherboard: GIGABYTE H370M D3H CPU: Intel Core i3-8100 - 3.6 Ghz RAM: Patriot 2x4 DDR4 - 2400 MHz Case: Enermax Ostrog Lite HDD: WD Blue 1 TB 7200RPM Since I don't play very demanding games, I use my CPU's integrated UHD 630 for games. It runs every game I play and I haven't had any problems with it (I do wish to buy a GTX 1060 later in the future, however). For a few weeks after my PC was built, I had no GPU errors or any type of error at all. I ran all my games perfectly fine. However, one day I decided to download another Intel GPU driver (there was a slightly more recent one compared to the one I had originally installed after I built my PC) and I increased my RAM paging size because I ran into memory leak issues on GTA 5. Then, shit started to really fall. My FIFA 18 would crash with this error: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/279832969424928768/472807744785743872/unknown.png My GTA 5 would crash with this error: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/279832969424928768/472156047440871437/unknown.png My Fortnite would crash as well, but it wouldn't bother to tell me why it crashed, all it did was ask me to send an error report. What makes it even weirder is that it only crashes in those three games. I've also played GTA 4, CS:GO, CS:S, Robocraft, Garry's Mod, Geometry Dash, PAYDAY 2, etc etc, perfectly fine. My friend suggested that I uninstall the driver that I had installed and reinstall the driver that I originally was using. So I did, and the problems were gone for a day, but then they came back. FIFA 18, Fortnite, and GTA 5 would all crash. I did a bit of research and the closest I've seen to an actual solution is updating my BIOS, which I have absolutely no balls to do. Even though the last time there was a power outage in my area was at least two years ago and I don't recall ever having electricity issues where my PC will shut down randomly. Still, I'm just too scared to update BIOS. What's the problem? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| My corsair 275r didn't come with an accessory kit. Posted: 28 Jul 2018 03:20 PM PDT The case didn't come with the accessory kit. What should I do? Any alternatives I can use? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Finalising my first build - how does this look? Posted: 28 Jul 2018 02:40 PM PDT I'm finalising my first build for my first ever pc (i'm leaving mac behind!) I am hoping to be able to play pubg and other similar games on good settings with a good frame rate - does this look like it could handle it? And am I overpaying for anything? Any advice is greatly appreciated! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
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| Posted: 28 Jul 2018 02:38 PM PDT First PC build and trying to understand my RGB situation... Mobo is Maximus X Code which has 2 RGB headers and 2 Addressable RGB headers. For my case, it has 2 200m RGB fans at the front, 1 RGB back fan, and 2 RGB fans for the AIO cooler radiator. The GPU is STRIX 1080Ti which has RGB on it as well... I have 2 splitters that allow 3 RGB plug-ins each... the case fans also came with an RGB strip (if I don't have room to plug it in idc if I use it or not)... So how can I get this to work? How do I split it up? Just put 2 splitters on the RGB headers? Also, I don't completely understand the difference between RGB and ARGB (is it just voltage?) Any help would be awesome. Thanks! [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Pc won’t turn on and only one white light shows up on the gpu Posted: 28 Jul 2018 04:05 PM PDT I got all the parts in this video https://youtu.be/uZcQG3Cqq1A And i thought i had followed it exactly but no matter if i press the power button or not only one white light shows up on the gpu, can anyone help me out?? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Hello, I just built my first pc . And can not install gpu driver :( any ideas? Posted: 28 Jul 2018 04:05 PM PDT It stops Installing and says "this graphics drover could not find compatible graphics card". But I ams sure that I am using right one for gt730 64bit eindows 10... :( please help. Ty for reading. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Um, hi again this time for an error Posted: 28 Jul 2018 11:05 AM PDT Yeah so I tried to build a components list that I'd like to have in my PC and It gave me this error : "The motherboard M.2 slot #1 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6.0 Gb/s port is disabled." How can I fix this or understand how to fix it ? Thanks Me [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Buy a $1200 game-capable laptop, OR, buy a $600 laptop and build a $600 PC Posted: 28 Jul 2018 01:40 PM PDT So right now I have 1 laptop that I use for everything. At home I just hook it up to my monitor keyboard and mouse set up (since my last PC slowly became obsolete and is actually slower than the current laptop). But the hinge on the current laptop broke, so it's kind of messy to use it outside (plus it's looks ghetto af). I recently just saved up some money and I've set a budge of $1200 for myself (can go a bit over). I 100% need a portable laptop for my work. So I'm getting a laptop regardless. What are you guys's experience with using a laptop as a main machine vs having a laptop AND having a desktop at home? Pros of using a main laptop I can see:
Pros of laptop + desktop:
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| Posted: 28 Jul 2018 01:24 PM PDT I'm looking to pick up something better than this generic $50 computer chair I have. With that said, I have a mild case of scoliosis that causes me pain when I'm sitting for hours at a time. Any recommendations on a comfy but supporting chair that would help with this? I'm assuming lumbar is one important feature but anything that goes above and beyond? Willing to spend a bit more to get something that is right. Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| First PC motherboard boots bios but GPU doesnt Posted: 28 Jul 2018 09:07 AM PDT So I just built my first PC I went to power it on and nothing, all the fans were spinning but no output. I remove the GPU and redo the ram and plug the moniter to my motherboard and it boots into the bios just fine. My question is do you guys have any ideas of why my GPU won't output a video signal. All brand new parts [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| How do I add an old hard drive to my new computer? Posted: 28 Jul 2018 08:03 AM PDT My old hard drive served as my primary hard drive on my old one, but I want to move it to my new computer and have it serve as a storage drive while keeping the files on it intact. Is there any way I can easily do this? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| can i use alcohol swabs to clean off thermal paste off cpu?? Posted: 28 Jul 2018 02:43 PM PDT | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 28 Jul 2018 12:29 PM PDT Let me be honest I'm not trying to spend a fortune on a desk. Any desk recommendations under $120 that'll the able to fit 2 27inch monitors and my tower with enough room not to look cramped after putting a keyboard and mouse on the desk top? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 28 Jul 2018 02:24 PM PDT Any last minute tips or recommendations? Planning to follow Bitwit's guide, I think. Already watched a number of build guides. [link] [comments]  |
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