Home Networking Cutting Through The Marketing Hype |
- Cutting Through The Marketing Hype
- Can I have 2 ISP's in one apartment?
- Router behind ISP modem help w/ IP addressing.
- What to use to fill holes in base plate around Ethernet?
- How can a router « mask » the number of machines I have behind?
- Suggestions for Ethernet Switch
- House came pre-wired, what the hell am I looking at?
- Port forwarding not working?
- Running Cat6 Cable through an old Townhouse
- Cat6 or Cat7 for new home
- Suggestions for picking AP's
- Cabling my way through a very home-made project
- Can I route internet traffic to use different DNS servers, depending on destination?
- UK BT Master Socket.
- hey! buying my first wi-fi setup to my apartment and i have no clue at all.. any tips?
- I'd like to upgrade my home network to Ubiquiti gear. Floor plan included.
- Is there a way I can calculate how much to limit my download speeds to in order to not affect other users?
- [Advice] EdgeRouter4, US-8 Switch, VLANS
- Advice for rebuilding my network with multiple routers
- Why are APs typically more expensive than wireless routers?
- RT-AC68U, CM8200 & Comcast Gigabit - DHCP issues
- Frustration w/ Milestone has peaked. Looking for another security camera recording software pkg
- Introducing Managed switch(es) in my home network.
| Cutting Through The Marketing Hype Posted: 24 Apr 2018 03:23 PM PDT Here are a few things I've gleaned in my many years of home networking - I had a home network in 1997 that would automatically dial up my ISP and share the internet among the computers in the house (and good god, was it painfully slow! Just 3 years later, I had a nailed-up SDSL line at T1 speeds and thought it was the bees' knees!). By day, I'm a consulting wifi network engineer with a whole sheaf of certifications and have been doing networking for a very long time. Here's a little info about how all this insane tech applies in your home network. Routers: What is often referred to as a "router" in home networking is not just a router, but also a network switch and (usually) a wireless access point. Sometimes they will also include a modem that interfaces with your ISP's lines. Unfortunately, ISPs tend to place these devices where it's convenient and cheap to THEM, rather than to optimize the wifi performance. Anything that gets between your device and the access point is going to slow you down. So don't let them stick it behind the TV, k? A side note: Speedtest dot net and their ilk won't tell you your actual wifi speed, but rather the HTTP throughput of the slowest link along the chain between you and the test server. That can be useful, but only to a point. When in doubt, retest on a wired connection. If the results are the same, the internet is the limiting factor. If they're different, it's probably your wifi. Which Router Is Best for Me? In an effort to try and sell you THEIR router, the router companies are going to try all manner of BS to persuade you that theirs is OMGTEHBESTEST! The reality is that just about any modern router from a company that specializes in the consumer space (Linksys, TP-Link, etc) is going to work just fine for most use cases. Chances are you don't need that expensive 4x4 unit that looks like a dead spider with a bad case of rigor mortis - Because virtually all your client devices are going to be 2x2 (and many are even 1x1), and virtually none of them support MU-MIMO, rendering that feature moot (MU-MIMO was a neat idea, but in practice, it's largely pointless). "Tri-Band" is BS. There are only two bands in use in 802.11: 2.4GHz and 5GHz. What is often sold as "tri-band" actually means tri-radio, typically 2.4GHz and two 5GHz radios. The only way you'll get an actual tri-band device is if it supports 802.11ad "WiGig" in the 60GHz band, which is still quite rare in consumerspace. "Gigabit WiFi" is also a line of crap. Marketing throws big numbers out to get you to think their device is faster than the competitor's device. So they'll come up with numbers like 5300Mbps and 6400Mbps and all manner of large numbers that sound really fast. This is MegaBS. They come up with these numbers by taking the max possible PHY rate (the physical link speed) for each radio using all possible spatial streams, at the widest possible channel width, and adding them all up. This is stupid, because PHY rates are largely meaningless to actual throughput, and because while marketing can add all those radios together, your client devices can't. They also don't usually support as many spatial streams (see the 4x4 bit above) as the AP does. And in order to achieve that maximum PHY rate, you usually need to be within about 6-10 feet of the router, at which point you might as well just use a cable. (There's a handy table at mcsindex.com that shows all the possible PHY rates). In practice, your actual throughput will max out at 40-50% of the PHY rate because wifi is not only half-duplex, it's also a shared medium where only one device (client or AP) can talk at once on a channel (this includes all your neighbors and their hardware). You'll also see a consumer-grade router max out on total wifi throughput around 300-400Mbps, and high-end ones might be able to go as high as 500-600Mbps on a good day. This is largely a limitation imposed by physics, not your router. So don't trash your router if that's all you're seeing on the wifi on your gigabit connection - it's not your router, it's a limit on how many bits can go over the air at once. Streaming: This is where those dual 5GHz devices can come in handy (see: "Tri-Band") - watching Netflix on your smart TV over wifi is not especially bandwidth-intensive (10-20Mbps), but it's murder on wireless airtime. So having a wireless network on its own channel/radio dedicated to your streaming devices is probably a good idea, so that when your roommates/siblings/spouse are checking their instagram feed, it doesn't chew up airtime on your streaming. Better yet, if you can connect your TV/streaming box via a wire, do so. Coverage: If you've got a big house, coverage probably sucks in some parts of it. There has been a slew of new "mesh" devices on the market recently that are designed to mitigate this. "Mesh" does not refer to a coordinated network of multiple APs, but rather to the fact that they get their connection to the router via a second wireless connection - this is fine if you can't get a cable there, but if you have the option to use an ethernet or MoCA cable to link them up, by all means, do so - the performance will be vastly better. On that note, extenders/repeaters should be avoided. They kill performance by half for each hop that is introduced into the system. Not just for devices connected to the repeater, but everyone on the channel. Just don't use them, they are not worth the headache. If you need better coverage, look at a mesh system. Because airtime is such a precious commodity, you need to do a few things if you have noisy neighbors. This is also an opportunity to be a good wifi neighbor. a) Change the default password on your device. b) Disable automatic channel selection on your device c) Disable 2.4GHz entirely if at all possible - this band is a mess. d) if you can't disable 2.4GHz, limit yourself to channels 1,6,11. Anything in between those is stomping on both sides. Definitely disable 40MHz channel widths on 2.4GHz. e) Set your channel widths on 5GHz to 40MHz or 20MHz. 80MHz is fine if you don't have neighbors using up the band. f) If your device supports the 5GHz DFS channels, use them! That's a vast untapped space that you can use as long as you're not near any radar systems. Most vendors have terrible defaults. Moving off those defaults will make you a better wifi citizen, and will usually improve your experience as well. What's the best device for my gaming/streaming rig? A wire. Always and forever. The router portion of your router will handle your gigabit service just fine. Your lag is going to happen because of airtime problems on wifi more than anything else, and from routing issues on the internet. Speaking of wires... Cat5e will do gigabit. In your house, there's usually no reason to go with expensive Cat6 or Cat6a, or the absurdly expensive and mythical "Cat7" (which doesn't actually exist in the data world and is a massive pain in the ass to install). Any other questions, ask in the comments - happy to offer advice. [link] [comments]  |
| Can I have 2 ISP's in one apartment? Posted: 24 Apr 2018 10:27 AM PDT Problem: my roommate and I are paying $60 for the 100Mbps with Xfinity. We have a raspberry pi hooked up to the router and any time it dips below 75Mbps, it logs it. We have hundreds of logs showing our connection is jumpy and consistently going well below the 100Mbps we're paying for. I lag out of Xbox games constantly and Hulu/Netflix are constantly pausing to buffer. My roommate is fine with the issues and doesn't want to bother to switch to AT&T, but I do. Would I be able to have my own AT&T connection in the apartment, while he continues to use the Xfinity service? Any help is appreciated! Note: We've had a tech come by twice and they said 'theres nothing we can do unless we test it and catch it dipping below the threshold'. edit: after a qucik chat with AT&T on their website it looks like this is not possible. They advised me that I would need to cancel Comcast to install AT&T. [link] [comments]  |
| Router behind ISP modem help w/ IP addressing. Posted: 24 Apr 2018 04:50 PM PDT Hopefully my questions are easy ones. Background: I have a FIOS Quantum Router G1100 as well as an Asus RT-AC3200. I currently have the FIOS router set so the wifi is off and the DHCP scope is only 1 number (192.168.1.2). I have not changed the IP address for the FIOS router so it's 192.168.1.1. On my Asus router I have the WAN port set as 192.168.1.2, and the DHCP scope 192.168.2.50 - 65. I am experiencing a double NAT situation and the Synology NAS that I have connected to the Asus router is unable to connect to the internet. Goal: My goal is to, as securely as possible, open up a way for me to remotely view my IP camera's which I have attached to the NAS. I do not believe I'm under any major concern of being stalked, so I don't plan on using AES 256, but I would like to use a VPN to connect to my home network to view the Cameras from any internet connected point. I believe I can do this in one of two ways - Option #1:Figure out which ports the NAS needs to be open (let's use their 5000 for HTTP and 5001 for HTTPS as the example) and configure port forwarding. or I can try Option #2: Set the FIOS modem into bridge mode and have all traffic go directly to my Asus router. Questions: 1.) Am I right about those two solutions or is there something else available to me? 2.) On Option#1 - To make this work I would need to set the FIOS router's port 5000 to go to 192.168.1.2 port 5000 and the same for 5001, right? 3.) On Option #2 - To make this work I think I know how to make the FIOS router a bridge, but what configuration do I need to make on my Asus Router for it to accept this? Do I just run the wizard and let it look for the ISP IP? I know I need to release the FIOS router's Internet facing IP before switching it to bridge mode, but I'm not sure what IP addresses I would need to setup on my Asus router to make this configuration work. 4.) If I do get this configured correctly so that DNS is available from my NAS, what's the best/easiest method to setup a VPN so that only known devices are able to connect and view cameras? I had PIA, but with their recent decision to bring in Mt. Gox's Mark Karpeles I want to go with a different company. Hopefully that makes sense, and someone can give me a quick answer to questions #1,2,3, 4. Thanks for reading this far and look forward to your response. [link] [comments]  |
| What to use to fill holes in base plate around Ethernet? Posted: 24 Apr 2018 07:45 PM PDT I can't seem to figure this out. What do you use to fill in the holes around your Ethernet in wood base plates? Obviously something so that you can pull it out later still right? I feel like the fireblock foam stuff won't allow you to pull the wires out later if need be. My runs go from basement up... Speaking of which any solutions to hold Ethernet cables in the wall when they're being pulled down back towards the basement? Gravity is putting a hard pull on those wires. I was considering drilling a zip tie to the drywall on the other side to release some tensiom on the keystone jack. [link] [comments]  |
| How can a router « mask » the number of machines I have behind? Posted: 24 Apr 2018 04:28 AM PDT Hi guys, first time poster here! My school has a strict policy about the number of simultaneous connections on one account: 3maximum. But I have 2 phones and 2 computers, which all have wifi capacity, and it's annoying to disconnect every machine each time I want to use another one. I asked the school about this, if they could give more connections to me, but they said that they couldn't. The good thing, is that I have their permission to « do anything harmless » to manage to have more connections. The connection at school is a wifi-based one. The wifi is public, you don't need a password to connect to it, but once you are connected, everything goes to the school page and you have to login there. Once you login it's ok forever. For the moment a friend will lend me a router TL-WR1043ND. What can I do with it? Is connecting my devices on the router directly enough? Thanks for the help! [link] [comments]  |
| Suggestions for Ethernet Switch Posted: 24 Apr 2018 06:43 PM PDT I've been reading a lot of reviews about these breaking in a very short time span and I just want one that will work efficiently and last a good amount of time. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
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| House came pre-wired, what the hell am I looking at? Posted: 24 Apr 2018 10:59 AM PDT I'm sure this is super simple, but how do I go about making the ethernet ports in each bedroom "hot"? This photo was taken in the master closet downstairs. The cable guy installed our router upstairs, which is connected to the TV. He did some fiddling with the cables in the master closet, but I didn't think to ask about the wall ports in each bedroom until he left. Do I need to move my router to the closet and somehow use the splitter that was left behind? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Apr 2018 12:21 PM PDT Okay so long story short Im trying to port forward to create a server for me and my friend. So far I have tried: actually port forwarding the needed ports reseting everything both online and with a paperclip and the reset button made a static ip gave the ports firewall clearance cannot use hamachi since my friends ISP blocks peer2peer what im curious about is the difference between these two ips i get confused with, one starts with 192.xx.xxx.xx or whatever and the other one is 73.xxx.xx.xxx which one of these would I use? I actually have a lot more questions I just can't think of right now, but will probably stem off of peoples suggestions/comments. Thank you in advance everyone who is helping, it means a lot :) oh and if need be i have a discord, and can use teamviewer [link] [comments]  |
| Running Cat6 Cable through an old Townhouse Posted: 24 Apr 2018 08:41 AM PDT Hey all! Been lurking trying to find the answers to my question, but my issue may be bigger than trying to piece together different peoples posts. Currently I'm looking to cut the cord, as my GF and I only use internet to stream shows and play games. We barely watch TV and unhooked the landline as soon as we moved in. Before we do however, I want to make sure it would be possible to wire the house and get the right equipment. Right now we're barely getting 35 Mbps on what I believe is supposed to be a Verizon Fios triple play 60Mbps plan. I would like to cancel the current plan (which is my grandmothers) and enroll as a new customer with the $40 a month 100/100 Mbps internet only plan, providing my own router. I have zero experience modifying a home, the townhouse is my grandmothers that I am renting, but she's given me the okay to update as needed because I plan to buy it from her. We have Verizon Fios and an old Actiontec Mi424wr Verizon Fios Wireless Router. I would ideally like to return this and the set top box and dvr that we don't even use to save on rental fees and to buy my own router. I've been reccomended the classic Ubiquiti ER-X-US EdgeRouter and Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-LITE-US Dual-Radio Access Point combo. I'd like to run Cat6 to several rooms so that I can easily plug devices in without relying on my current TP-Link Powerline, but also to hopefully increase the value of the home. The current setup has the router/access point next to the TV on the main floor so that the coaxial behind the TV can go into the set top box and router. The ONT is in the basement under the fuse box which I find questionable since I've heard you don't want cables carrying data next to lines carrying power. From what I understand, I will need to argue with Verizon to switch the ONT to ethernet, and then ONT -> Router -> Switch -> Run cable up through the wall to the rooms that I want have a panel in -> Wifi Access Point on the main floor. The basement is partially finished, the attic is not. I wanted to wire up the finished room in the basement where my gaming computer is, the living room on the main floor where the wifi access point would go, and possibly one or two of the bedrooms upstairs and the home office that is upstairs but currently unused. My question is this: how feasible is it to do all of this myself? I'd like to keep my budget under $300, but with the router and access point I'd be at about $150 and I haven't even bought a switch or cabling yet. Should I just hire someone to run the cable for me, or is this something a Verizon technician could help with since I'd be signing up as a new customer and waiving the $99 set-up fee by signing up online? If I were to do it myself, does anyone have a reccomended tutorial? All the ones I've seen have people commenting that the person has no idea what they're doing. Sorry for the wall of text, and thank you in advance! TL;DR:
I'm more than happy to take more pictures when I get home from work, and can draw up a rough floor plan of what the rooms look like. Thanks!! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Apr 2018 10:30 AM PDT I'm buying a new construction home that is being wired for ethernet. I'm new to home networking, but am interested in potentially setting up a basement server to provide A/V and videogame streaming to various devices throughout the home. The builder is wiring it with Cat6 (not 6A), but is offereing to upgrade to Cat7 for $700. Worth it? Other considerations? Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Apr 2018 09:51 AM PDT Hello friends, I need some suggestions to pick the right access point. The situation is a 3 story building, with thick concrete floors. i'll need at least 5 for this setup. the switch is on the first floor in a comm closet. PoE or non PoE are both options. I'm looking for 2.4 and 5Ghz. I plan on setting up with the same SSID on different channels so people can migrate between floors and have it swap to the strongest AP. Anyone have a recommended brand looking for each unit to be less than 100$ [link] [comments]  |
| Cabling my way through a very home-made project Posted: 24 Apr 2018 12:05 PM PDT Hello fellow redditors, recently my landlord did some electrical renovating in my two room apartment and they even put RJ45 sockets in two walls. Woo-hoo ! Here is some back-story, I'm probably going to use some non standard words and I probably made some basic mistakes, so feel free to correct and educate me ! The dude that did the job of renovating here told me it was wired for phone (1 pair) but that I could if I want make an Ethernet link between the two rooms, because it was 4 pairs cables that run through the walls. He even cabled one of the socket so I could repeat the process on the other ones and it should work. So far so good, sounds pretty easy, even if my low OSI layers are a bit rusty now (I strayed away from that in my career). Ok first I try to look at some regular T-568 diagrams and the colours are all wrong, but that still could do it, right ? Here is a picture of on side of the original socket : https://i.imgur.com/AHmbiIj.jpg And the other side : https://i.imgur.com/cgZxSGC.jpg And here is a diagram of the whole thing (don't hit me) : https://i.imgur.com/bx8HavH.png So I cable the other RJ45 socket the same way in the other room, then follow the cables to the electrical box where both ends of the sockets meet and I cable them the same way and bridge with a straight Eth cable: https://i.imgur.com/xGQBlKu.jpg I was kinda hoping that auto-MDX would work its magic but I have no link. Should I invert some pairs somewhere ? Care to tell me where I failed the basics ? x-post from /r/Network and /r/cableadvice [link] [comments]  |
| Can I route internet traffic to use different DNS servers, depending on destination? Posted: 24 Apr 2018 11:57 AM PDT I use a DNS service to avoid baseball blackouts. Is it possible to route all MLB.tv traffic to use Unlocator's DNS address to avoid blackouts, but all other internet traffic to use my ISP's DNS address? On the AppleTV, when I use Unlocator's DNS address, I can use the MLB.tv app to watch games that would normally be blacked out. However, when the game is over, if I try to launch the Comedy Central app, the video never loads. As soon as I remove Unlocator's DNS address from the AppleTV, the Comedy Central video loads. It becomes a pain in the butt to enter the settings and remove the settings on a daily basis. Is what I'm asking even possible? If so, how can I accomplish this? Buying a new router with these capabilities? Setting up a DNS server at home? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Apr 2018 01:42 AM PDT I've had this house since October, I've been renovating it and haven't moved in yet, but I likely will at some point this week. I ordered FTTC back in November, as I'd been checking for about 5 months and the area had been on a waiting list for so long it finally became available so I figured I'd place an order, (good job I did, it's been on a waiting list ever since). When it initially became active, I was getting around 37 down and 2 up (I suspect the upload is being throttled), my parents/I've been living only next door but one, been getting about 37 down and 4-5 up there. Anyway, I've since had the BT line pulled from where it was entering the property downstairs, and had it come through the wall in one of the upstairs bedrooms, the sockets currently very crudely 'installed', dangling from the wall with orange and white cables going to A and B on the mastersocket. (Was the same downstairs to be fair as I was having the room plastered). Anyway I'm now getting 30 down and 2 up. I'm not too sure if this is my ISP throttling the speed, wiring issue etc... And I'm unsure of when the speed dropped too, I was getting the 37 down as soon as the line became active, maybe it's now 'stabilised'. Anyway, to get to the point. I can see you can buy new mastersockets online. The one I have doesn't have the filter built in to the socket, and from looking on here: https://www.btengineerlondon.co.uk/bt-master-sockets/ it looks like I have the NTE5a socket. If I was to buy a NTE5C with the VDSL MK4 faceplate would I be likely to receive a faster connection at all? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-OpenReach-BT-Master-Socket-NTE5C-VDSL-MK4-New2018-Clear-Cams-BackBox-/182458125439 Oh, and regarding the wires, I do not need a landline, so I believe the only wires I need to put in to A and B is white and orange right? The rest (green and black, it also looks like there's three yellow wires in there too?) I don't need to do anything with? [link] [comments]  |
| hey! buying my first wi-fi setup to my apartment and i have no clue at all.. any tips? Posted: 24 Apr 2018 07:09 AM PDT Yo! So they just installed fiber optic into my apartment last week, before I had an awful provider with bad speed and highlycost but they (lend) us a router that provided wi-fi for my and my gf internet. so now i have fiber with 500/500 mbit and just connected with cable straight into my pc. this has worked tempoary but we need a wifi for laptops/tv/phones etc as you know :-) i have no idea where to start, as i still play i think i prefer cable still, and we live kind of small (60kvm) so im looking for a secure wi-fi system thats as cheap as possible (we are students) cheers ! [link] [comments]  |
| I'd like to upgrade my home network to Ubiquiti gear. Floor plan included. Posted: 24 Apr 2018 10:13 AM PDT I have a symmetrical gigabit internet connection, and I live in a high-rise block of flats, with plenty of interference both in the 2.4 and 5 GHz spectra. I have an Asus RT-AC87U that's three years old, warranty nearly done with anyway, and I'd love to upgrade to some pro-level networking. I would like to swap out the Asus router and replace it with Ubiquiti components. Here's the key network infrastructure at home. A few pointers below. The Cat 6 cables run along the corners of the walls and ceiling, and are inside cable trunking, running alongside 230 V AC power cables, so it's not easy to move them around or add new ones without significant effort and cost. Measurements are in millimetres. The large black rectangles are the reinforcement pillars for the flat—they're solid concrete rebar. The walls separating the rooms are also concrete. The gigabit switch exists because the ancient (from 2010) all-in-one desktop we have at home has a rubbish Wi-Fi adaptor, and I wanted to split the single RJ 45 port in the study to feed two devices (the desktop and the NAS) with wired LAN. Have you guys any suggestions as to how I may reconfigure the network at home? For starters, I was thinking of placing the switch I have right now, next to the fibre ONT (and thus giving our smart TV a wired connection, too) and replacing the Asus router with either a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter PoE or EdgeRouter X, as well as a Ubiquiti AP-AC-LR. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 24 Apr 2018 09:30 AM PDT Hi, I have a 75Mbps down, 10Mbps up connection. We have 4 people who use the internet at home. Person 1 (Me) - Desktop user connected through ethernet. Person 2 - Streams live TV from an IPTV service on an android box, connected through ethernet. I think the content is 720p but I'm not certain. Person 3 - Streams video on an app on the iPad. Again, I think the content is 720p but not certain. Person 4 - Occasional user who watches Youtube or does video chat For me, once in a while I'll have something I want to download, whether it be a video game update, or something using BitTorrent that will pretty much download things at my max connection speed. The latter, definitely seems to hog all the bandwidth as I've had Person 2 complain that their stream suddenly goes to buffering. I'm just wondering if there is someway I can easily calculate how much I should set my maximum download speed to in order to not affect other users, or some golden rule I can follow? Or is it gonna be purely trial and error? [link] [comments]  |
| [Advice] EdgeRouter4, US-8 Switch, VLANS Posted: 24 Apr 2018 07:47 AM PDT Hi /r/HomeNetworking, thanks for all the great posts. I've read the following in the Purchase Guide:
However, I am wondering if the following general configuration is possible: WAN --> EdgeRouter4 (Create two distinct VLANs on eth1+eth2) --> plug both VLANs into the US-8 --> assign 3 ports to VLAN1 and 3 ports to VLAN2. Is this possible/practical, or should I really just buy 2 unmanaged switches and plug eth1 into one and eth2 into the other to distribute the VLAN connections? Many thanks for your thoughts. [link] [comments]  |
| Advice for rebuilding my network with multiple routers Posted: 24 Apr 2018 07:35 AM PDT So, this weekend I'm planning on rebuilding my (private) network. At the moment I've got a DSL signal going into my Fritz modem/router and from there I've got an ethernet connection to a GBit switch and a TP-Link access point. To be honest that doesn't really matter that much. What does matter though that I need general advice about which settings I have to tweak and check for the following setup to work. The incoming DSL signal is supposed to go in to my Ubiquity EdgeRouter X. From there it should connect to both my WLAN capable devices (Fritz Box, TP-Link) so my entire living area is covered by the Network. And that is the tricky part (for me, at least). My goal is to make every device connected anywhere (both LAN and WLAN) treated equally. One list of IP's being distributed, one SSID and Password combination, if possible the devices should always connect to the stronger WLAN signal (but I don't really mind that, as long as it doesn't matter which access point I am connected to). Additionally I need to connect two phones via VoIP. Things at my disposal:
What are the settings I have to tweak, how do I set this up? (general information should be enough, I'll figure out how to do it in the respective interfaces) Thanks in advance! Sincerely, Viktor [link] [comments]  |
| Why are APs typically more expensive than wireless routers? Posted: 23 Apr 2018 09:00 PM PDT Can someone educate me to the economics of APs vs. wireless routers? If wireless routers can act as an AP and do so much more...why are they the same price, if not cheaper than APs? I really need an AP, but the price point just doesn't make sense. Cheaper to buy a wireless router and disable the router portion. [link] [comments]  |
| RT-AC68U, CM8200 & Comcast Gigabit - DHCP issues Posted: 23 Apr 2018 10:55 PM PDT Been trying to google my way out of this hole, but I can't find any definitive answer here: I'm currently using an AC68U with an Arris CM8200, on a Comcast gigabit connection. This has been my setup for the past 2 months, since I moved to this house. Every few hours, my router basically craps the bed, loses all connection, and says "Your ISP's DHCP does not function properly", and I have to reboot my modem and router constantly before it regains connection. This happens 2-10 times per day. I've found a few hits on similar issues online, but nothing really comes close to helping to fix the issue. I bought the 68U to replace a Netgear R6700v2 (because it's slow as all hell and not customizable at all), but this is beyond annoying. Comcast says it's not them, but they don't know their ass from their elbow. Asus says it's Comcast, but they have about the same level of knowledge. The sad part is I went with the 68U because I had a T-Mobile version of the 68U on FIOS for a few years, and it was just perfect. Here's the modem's signal levels and error log: https://imgur.com/a/2sgG3pY I'm currently back to using the Netgear r6700v2 for (almost) the past 2 days, the internet hasn't gone down since. This tells me it's a router issue, not a modem issue, but wtf do I know, right? Anyone have any suggestions? Or barring that, any replacement suggestions? I'm at the point where I'm ready to downgrade from the gigabit connection to their 400mb, get an Arris DOCSIS 3.0 modem, and just say fuck it, and be done with it. Thanks in advance! Edit: Small update: Amazon is swapping the device past the return period, because ASUS is taking their sweet time with troubleshooting. They actually told me to keep the old device, so we'll see if it works as an AIMesh extender. Hopefully the new router doesnt have the same issue. Also, Comcast is sending a line tech to investigate the T3 Timeouts. [link] [comments]  |
| Frustration w/ Milestone has peaked. Looking for another security camera recording software pkg Posted: 24 Apr 2018 06:23 AM PDT The Milestone software is so convoluted I'm giving up on it. I just want to monitor/record three Reolink POE cameras around the house. I could run it on a Mac but I've got a Win7 machine dedicated just to that now & would like to keep it that way. Any recommendations? [link] [comments]  |
| Introducing Managed switch(es) in my home network. Posted: 24 Apr 2018 06:03 AM PDT I have a simplified schematic of my home network here. What I'm trying to do is isolate some of the network into VLAN subnets. Perhaps let my access points restrict all network access to DHCP clients and give one or two fixed IP's SSH access across VLAN's to specified servers. The biggest problem is lack of room space where the fiber enters the house from outside. I barely have enough room for the firewall/router and the unmanaged switch that connects all floors. I'm getting an HP Enterprise Layer3 GB switch (cheap) and was going to test it by replacing the 3rd floor unmanaged Cisco. VLANS, port tagging, trunking, Layer3 and all that is not really part of my knowledge yet, but I plan to use this test to learn. The big question is, can the L3 switch work alone from the 3rd floor by routing traffic between subnets all over the network together with the 2 unmanaged switches, or do I need to replace all 3 switches with managed ones? [link] [comments]  |
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