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    Simple Questions - January 31, 2022

    January 31, 2022

    Simple Questions - January 31, 2022

    Simple Questions - January 31, 2022

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 09:00 PM PST

    This thread is for simple questions that don't warrant their own thread (although we strongly suggest checking the sidebar and the wiki before posting!). Please don't post involved questions that are better suited to a [Build Help], [Build Ready] or [Build Complete] post. Examples of questions suitable for here:

    • Is this RAM compatible with my motherboard?
    • I'm thinking of getting a ≤$300 graphics card. Which one should I get?
    • I'm on a very tight budget and I'm looking for a case ≤$50

    Remember that Discord is great places to ask quick questions as well: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/wiki/livechat

    Important: Downvotes are strongly discouraged in this thread. Sorting by new is strongly encouraged.

    Have a question about the subreddit or otherwise for r/buildapc mods? We welcome your mod mail!

    Looking for all the Simple Questions threads? Want an easy way to locate today's thread? This link is now in the sidebar below the yellow Rules section.

    submitted by /u/AutoModerator
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    [GUIDE] Thinking of buying a new PC? There are some common PC Hardware traps and misconceptions you might be tricked by.

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 05:26 PM PST

    EDIT1: spelling and added monitor section EDIT2: added RAM section

    I'll keep this as consolidated as I can while conveying and explaining the most important aspects, but there's just a lot to talk about. I'm mostly going into what manufacturers advertise vs what actually matters in real-world scenarios for the average consumer. I'll try to refrain from explaining technical terms as much as I can, and instead linking to reputable videos explaining them in detail.

    For general purchasing advise, look at reviews from the likes of:

    CPUs:

    • CPU clock speed can be almost completely disregarded as a meaningful statistic
      • Here's a good video explaining why - I'm not explaining it all here because it's too much info.
        • TL;DW - single-threaded performance is mostly based on the amount of Instructions Per Cycle (IPC), not the actuall clockspeed of the chip.
      • A notable exception is overclocking, and very similar CPUs within the brand AND same generation : an Intel i3 10105 is the same chip as the Intel i3 10100, just clocked 200mhz higher
    • This also goes for CPU core count to some extend, especially for gaming.
      • This point is also explained in the video above. Most consumer software (like games) is built to work with average hardware. Which PC game developer in their right mind will only optimize their game for the people with hardware in the top 1%? No one. The average, and this is also pushed by Console hardware, is of course constantly being pushed forward. Although not recommended for most gaming PC's, 4 cores is theoretically enough for current and older AAA games, but are pushing the boundaries of what's minimally required, and will be more and more outdated over the coming years, where 6-core CPUs have already become the standard for low-midrange builds and up.
      • It has to be noted though that single and duo-core CPUs don't run modern games well, and in a few years this effect might leak over into quad-core CPUs (although impossible to say for sure as quad-core CPUs have been a staple for gaming for over 10 years)
      • Here's a good video showing that a modern CPU with 4 cores can outperform a 12-core consumer CPU from just 2.5 years in some applications ago
    • Please look at real-world performance benchmarks, and judge from there how much you should spend. Note that these benchmarks are often performed at 1080p to clarify differences: Gaming performance becomes less CPU-dependent the higher your Monitor resolution gets as you're both faster GPU-bottlenecked, and CPU calculations don't scale much with resolution in games.
    • Take the following recommendations with a grain of salt. Please look at the first link above here for benchmarks, as going up in price doesn't scale well in games with CPUs - performance per dollar is something you should take into account.. (Note: the "F" at the end of each CPU means it doesn't have integrated graphics: this makes it cheaper, but if you don't use a dedicated GPU, get the non-F variant):
      • < $100 - Intel i3 12100F
      • $100-150 - Intel i3 12100(F); Intel i5 11400F (if available for that price)
      • $150-200 - Intel i5 12400F (much better than 11400F, but motherboards are also more expensive)
      • $200-250 - Intel i5 12400F; AMD Ryzen 5600G (if you need integrated graphics only)
      • $250-300 - Intel i5 12600K(F); Intel i5 12600(F) (if you're not overclocking); AMD Ryzen 5600X (pretty much superceded by the i5 12400 though)
      • $300-400 - Intel i7 12700K(F); Intel i7 12700F (if you're not overclocking so you can get a cheaper motherboard); AMD Ryzen 5800X (if close to $300); Ryzen 5700G (if you need integrated graphics only)
      • $400-600 - Intel i9 12900K(F)
      • $600-800 - AMD Ryzen 9 5950X (for workstation applications; Intel i9 12900K(F) (for gaming

    CPU COOLERS:

    • The best general advise it look at cooler reviews like from Gamers Nexus on youtube, or articles like this: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpu-coolers,4181.html
    • Many people will tell you buy a 3rd party cooler to replace the included cooler on most budget-midrange CPUs. The coolers included can however cool the CPUs they come with just fine - big caveat being that they become loud and hot.
    • All coolers should come with a rated maximum heat off-load, which can be compared to the maximum heat output of a CPU.
    • All In One water coolers (AiO) are not always better than air cooling, where expensive air cooling is often performing better than cheap water coolers.
      • For AiO coolers, make sure your case can actually fit the AiO you want. The easiest way to check is either just googling it, putting your case into PCPartpicker.com where all AiOs that don't fit will be filtered out with the compatibility filter.
      • Here's an in-depth review of Air vs Water-cooling by Gamers Nexus
      • Pretty much all consumer CPUs can be cooled with Air, with the exception of the i9 12900K and i7 12700K as a borderline case (at full load) needing beefy liquid cooling. Anything below that can be cooled by both, it becomes an aesthetic choice, and Liquid Cooling can be chosen for reduced noise at high load.
      • Here's an in-depth consolidation of what CPU cooler to buy in 2022, but here also some recommendations (remember that prices can vary greatly over time and per country, and should always be chosen on a per-situation basis:
        • < $40 - Vetroo V5 (needs seperate mounting bracket for intel 12th gen); Be Quiet Pure Rock 2; ID-COOLING SE-224-XT; Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo; ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports (single)
        • $40-60 - Scythe Fuma 2; ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO; Noctua NH-U12S redux (only if build quality & support is very important to you)
        • $60-80 - Scythe Fuma 2; Be Quiet Dark Rock 4
        • $80-110 - Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4; Noctua NH-D15; Arctic Liquid Freezer 240/280 (AIO); be quiet! Pure Loop 240/280 (AIO)
        • $110-140 - Arctic Liquid Freezer 360/420 (AIO); NZXT Kraken X53 (240mm AIO); Lian Li Galahad AIO 240; Corsair iCUE H100i ELITE CAPELLIX (AIO)
        • $140+ - NZXT Kraken X63/X73 (AIO); Corsair iCUE H115i/H150i ELITE CAPELLIX (AIO)

    RAM *Always make sure that you're getting 2 DIMMS, like 2x8gb, 2x16gb etcetera. This lets the pc run the memory in dual channel mode. Imagine a road: no matter how well optimized your road is, if you only have 1 lane, it won't move as fast than when you have two lanes. This performance uplift isn't 100%, but anywhere from 0% to 40%, depending on the game. Here's a test performed: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hardwaretimes.com/single-channel-vs-dual-channel-ram-which-one-is-better-for-gaming/amp/ Note however that even if a (consumer) motherboard has 4 ram slots occupied, its still in dual channel mode. Consult your manual to see which slots you should occupy first to run dual-channel (it's often the 2nd and 4th slot from the CPU outwards) * Even in 2022, 16GB memory is enough for almost all games, with a few exceptions like heavily modded games and flight simulators. * As of 2022, the speed sweetspot is 3600MT/s at CL16 (or Cas Latency), or 4000MT/s CL18 before diminishing returns start kicking in. This depends on the CPU you're using though, and if you're on a tight budget, 3200 MT/s at CL16 or 3600 MT/s at CL18 offers great value still. Here are some performance benchmarks, including DDR5: https://youtu.be/LU_w9fZvSso * As of today, DDR5 is simply not worth it yet due to the huge premium (up to 3x the price of ddr4, although slowly creeping down), except for very rare cases where you either have a super high budget (let's say $5000+) or run applications that are very memory bandwidth dependant like code compiling. The performance uplift over DDR4 is frankly laughable ( https://youtu.be/fIN8lLhSqmg ). * This will most likely change in a few years, but you'll be much better off waiting those few years to combine a DDR5 purchase with a new platform release (new CPU, motherboard) as DDR5 will be cheaper, faster, and at a point where it actually matters for consumer applications. * If you want to "future proof" your pc, you're better off upgrading your GPU or CPU than spending hundreds of $ on DDR5, but as I mentioned, if you're already maxed out in specs you might consider it.

    ​

    POWER SUPPLIES:

    ​

    • For Power Supplies, the "80+" rating barely says anything about the quality of the power supply

      • It only says someting about the power efficiency of the unit: how efficiently the power supply can transform the power from the wall to your components
      • Although to be sure you're best off reading reviews yourself, this is a good "Tier List" to have as a reference whether a power supply is trustworthy.
      • This shows for example that the Seasonic S12III Bronze should be avoided (E-tier) while the same brand with similar reported specifications (and sometimes price) like the Seasonic Core GC can actually be pretty good. Brand loyalty is not something you can rely on.
      • Something like the Bitfenix Formula Gold is a very cheap 80+ Gold rated power supply of a brand that almost no one has heard of, but performs very well due to being designed very efficiently, putting in A-tier: defeating power supplies that can be much more expensive.

    • Even powerful gaming PCs use much less power than most people think, and quality power supplies can easily handle short-term peaks that might supercede even the maximum rated wattage.

      • Let's take a look my rendering PC at work, a powerful PC with a 16-core CPU and an RTX2080 ti. Outervision says it's rated for 547W, and that's when the CPU and GPU are both at 100% load - something that won't happen 99% of the time.
      • There's a caveat though: the 80+ efficiency ratings are rated as such when the the power supply uses less than 80% of its recommended maximum load, and depending on the power supply, it will be at its maximum efficiency between 50% and 75% load. People will take this number and the PC specs (let's take my office PC as an example again) and say "well it's 547W, so double that and you'd need a 1000W or 1200W power supply. But again - the PC will almost never be at full 100% load. Although not the most efficient, a quality 650W power supply would be good enough here.
      • Power supplies should not be skimped on with your budget, but buy a GOOD power supply instead of one with higher numbers

    STORAGE

    • First and foremost, check out u/NewMaxx and his excellent best buy guide, an excellent source for all things related to SSDs. https://www.reddit.com/user/NewMaxx/comments/9yv0c6/ssd_buying_guide_wip/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
    • Hard drives should never be used anymore as your main drive where Windows is installed on.
      • Hard drives still has its place at it remains by far the cheapest storage in price/GB data.
      • Hard drives don't affect gaming performance, but will MASSIVELY increase loading times, and when a hard drive is almost full, stuttering can occur while the game is trying to load in more data.
    • For gaming specifically, M.2 NVMe drives (that are installed directly onto the motherboard), are actually barely to not any faster than traditional 2.5" SATA SSDs when it comes to loading games.
      • Here's another blind test by Linus Tech Tips
      • Footnote: the new technology "Direct Storage" will deployed for Windows 11, where the GPU can access the (texture) data directly from the drive instead of having to go through the CPU first. This could mean the end of in-game loading time all-together. HOWEVER: getting a PCIe gen 4 drive for that NOW is almost always a waste of money due to the large premium youre paying. That money is much better used for other parts, and hell: you can always buy another SSD down the line, when they're cheaper AND better when it actually matters
    • If you are buying an NVMe SSD though, the "Sequential read/write" statistic is another stat that is somewhat misleading for the average. The random read/write speed or "IOPS" is what will actually matter for stuff like opening software or just the overall responsiveness of your operating system.
      • It should be noted however that IOPS is always SOMEWHAT correlated to the sequential speeds,
      • Here's a good video explaining it by Linus Tech Tips
        • TL;DW - The "Sequential speed" is only useful for moving, copying, or scrubbing through large files like when you're working on a big video editing project, or making complicated 3d renders, loading in assets, etcetera.
    • People tend to hate on QLC nand drives, due to faster degradation and small write cache (where when you're transferring large files, the speed will DRASTICALLY drop down at some point) . QLC drives can however still offer good value/$, and as mentioned earlier, the actual performance for games between drives is very small.
    • For a PC that is just meant for gaming there is no need to spend 50% extra on an SSD. An NVMe SSD like the Team MP33, WD Blue SN570, or Kingston A2000 will perform, for gaming, practically the same as something like the Samsung 970 Evo. while being just 2/3rd of the price.
      • Let me repeat that this is just for Gaming. For large file transfers, high resolution video editing or other professional software like CAD it can make a big difference.

    CASE

    • Although it is true that the best options there are for gaming PCs are those cases with a mesh front-panel to allow for good airflow, there seems to be a misconceptions that all other cases are now no longer an option.
      • However, this comes back to the point of the Coolers: It's about how much heat your case needs to dispatch: a normal midrange PC with something like an i5 12400 and RTX3060 will be fine in a case like the Phanteks Eclipse P300 or Corsair 4000D (standard non-airflow model). In a noise-normalized the test, the Corsair 4000D Airflow is about 3-7 degrees Celsius cooler than the standard Corsair 4000D. If you have super high hardware, you want to keep off the high temperatures to avoid thermal throttling, but we're talking about going from 54C to 61C with midrange hardware with the same noise levels. This has 0.0% effect on gaming or any other performance metrics (again, unless you're running up to 90C+ with high end hardware where airflow becomes very important).
      • That being said, you do of course want to get the most out of your CPU cooler for example, and not be choked by a closed front panel, so the move to a mesh design is a good direction to go in in my, any many others' opinion. I'm just saying that 'closed' cases are still perfectly fine as long as they're designed with decently alternative cooling solutions, like negative pressure setup cases.

    ​

    GRAPHICS CARDS:

    • I can't say much useful things due to the enormous volatility of the market.
    • If you're in the USA, you could consider entering the Newegg Shuffle for a graphics card, here you can get a bit better deal on graphics, so you might not have to sell your kidney: https://www.newegg.com/product-shuffle
    • Buying a 2nd hand GPU may offer better value for your system. A GTX1070 or RX580 8GB is priced around the same as the RX6500XT ($280-ish) while offering much better performance. You can always ask here which 2nd hand GPU might be best for your budget.
    • As of January 2022, the midrange options from AMD have a better value than Nvidia's counterparts. This mainly concerns the AMD Radeon RX6600 and RX6600XT models. They're comprible to the Nvidia 3060 and 3060ti, and while lacking some nice features like DLSS and Raytracing, the Nvidia counterparts are often price more than 50% higher than the 6600 lineup, making them hard to recommend. If you can get a good deal on a 3060 it changes the story of course.
    • For people with lower budget, be careful with the AMD Radeon RX 6500XT, especially if you're installing it in a system without PCIE 4.0 (From Ryzen 3000 and Intel 11th gen and after)

    MONITORS

    • Modern Monitors come in 3 standard resolutions, and they all in part have an ultrawide (or super-ultra wide) variant, keeping the same pixels per inch: 1080p Full HD, 1440p Quad HD, and 2160p 4K, each subsequent tier will pretty drastically improve visual fidelity, but especially for games be more demanding for your graphics card. Don't know what to choose? here's a good video: https://youtu.be/YAOQaMMGbcw
      • As a general rule of thumb (for standard 16:9 displays): 1080p up to 24", 1440p up to 30", and 4k from 30 inches and up will give a good balance between pixels per inch to deliver a good viewing experience. There are 4 mainstream different types of display panel: IPS, VA, and TN and OLED, with some minor variants. Hardware Unboxed recently put out an excellent video which to choose in 2022: https://youtu.be/luLS-I9lubg
    • The difference in 60hz to 144hz is HUGE, but has significant diminishing returns after that point. IF YOU BOUGHT A HIGH REFRESH RATE MONITOR, CHANGE THE REFRESH RATE MANUALLY IN THE WINDOWS MONITOR SETTINGS OR IT WILL STAY AT 60HZ!
      • Monitors suffer from the same problem as power supplies, where the only stats shown are the resolution, panel type, response times and refresh rate. This is nice and all, but it again doesn't say anything about the actual quality, and HOW they achieve those specs (or not, with false advertising). Especially the "1ms" response times are often incorrect and vary greatly from monitor to monitor.
    • Stats like brightness, contrast, smearing/ghosting levels, colour performance are all stats that the manufacturers keep for themselves, but actually make up a very important aspect on whether a monitor is good.
      • A good example is high refresh rate monitors, that experience bad blurring, ghosting and overshoot due to being overclocked more than the display can actually handle, which is almost false advertising. It's like cranking up the engine of a Toyota Corolla to 400HP to call it a sports car, only to spin on its wheels and slip off the road because it's not designed for that power.
    • HDR (High Dynamic Range) display certification is another one that's tricky, and regulations should be tightened for these certificates. An "HDR600" display has a peak brightness of 600 nits (candela/m²), but many budget HDR monitors cannot sustain this brightness for any meaningful amount of time, or simultaneous bright area size, while certification are still given out. This has to be looked at per situation and monitor.
    • Hardware Unboxed generally provides the best monitor reviews out there and are very consumer friendly. They recently put out a tier list with price/performance and it's a really good watch if you're in the market for a monitor: https://youtu.be/hk5DtR8alKo
    • You should also look into ergonomic options like a height adjustable stand or swivel.
    • You can get really good budget monitors nowadays with excellent colours, response times, minimal ghosting and freesync like the AOC 24g2 for around $180 and already comes with an IPS display at 144hz at 1080p . But high refresh rate 1440p monitors are getting better, more common and cheaper, like the Gigabyte M27Q setting new benchmarks for value, and Samsung setting new standards for VA displays with their 240hz Odyssey G7 display.
    • It again comes down to watching professional reviews. A cheap $150 144hz TN 21,5" monitor will probably get 4.5 stars in Amazon with thousands of reviews, but the objective increase in quality for just $30 more or so can be astounding. So don't be afraid to ask for advice on various subreddits! ​

    If you have any additions, questions, or comments, please let me know and I'll edit the post!

    submitted by /u/xxStefanxx1
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    Intel F Series

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 07:18 PM PST

    I see quite a few people on this sub recommending the "F" series Intel chips, which lack an iGPU, over the non-"F" series chips. I don't really understand why. Sure, they're slightly cheaper, but I personally would prefer to spend the extra for an iGPU instead of saving what amounts to a small amount in the grand scheme of the build.

    Is there some benefit to these chips that I'm missing?

    submitted by /u/BrainOnBlue
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    Should I get Windows 11 for new PC?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 08:47 PM PST

    I'm planning on building my first gaming PC in a few months and was wondering if it was worth it get Windows 11 rather than Windows 10? There is auto HDR support and claims to improve game loading times by using the NVME SSD directly rather than going through the CPU or something along those lines. But I heard no games are supported right now, at least at the time of the video released in oct. 2021. I know they are going to stop support for windows 10 in Oct. 2025 and was thinking it might just be better to get Windows 11 so I don't have to worry about that. Any thoughts please?

    submitted by /u/Ashikpas_Maxiwa
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    How do I run gta 5 on Intel(R) HD Graphics 2000?

    Posted: 31 Jan 2022 12:51 AM PST

    I searched up on google that you could run gta 5 on intel(R) HD graphics. Can you or can you not?

    submitted by /u/ImlikeMineCraft
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    PSU too weak?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 11:16 PM PST

    Hi Guys,

    i started having some problems after i switched from a Palit RTX3060Ti to a XFX MERC 319 AMD RX 6800XT.

    Games start to lag spike and some of them dont even run as they should, lower fps and so on.

    AC Rogue ist unplayable, i get freezes all the time, even in loading screen and in the game i cant play 2 seconds without getting like 1 sec freezes and audio cut offs.

    Can it be the PSU?

    I Have a Kolink Enclave 700w

    specs:

    ryzen 7 5800x merc 319 rx 6800 xt 32 gb ram corsair RGB 3 Rgb fans 140mm 2 normal fans 140mm 1 water pump with 3 fans - h150i rgb pro xt 2 monitors, one 32"

    i undervolted the GPU and it started running better but i still get freezes. The GPU seems to run just right, tested with benchmarks and stress test.

    let me know please, thanks 🙂

    submitted by /u/SheratroN78
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    Should i upgrade my 1050ti

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 11:09 PM PST

    Hi! Recently it was my 18th birthday so i was thinking about upgrading my pc. Since i built my pc 5 years ago i've never researched pc parts again until now, and the prices of gpu's are shocking. So i was wondering if should get a ryzen 5600x and a 6600xt(thats the max i think i can afford) or maybe build an overall better rig(Better cpu, case, ram, ssd, fan, power supply) and stick with my 1050ti until prices get back to normal. Edit: i have an i5 6500, corsair 100r, 1 tb hdd , 8gb ram, 500w evga 80plus white ñ, and a zotac 1050ti

    submitted by /u/Nachooo16
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    PC consistently rebooting after overheating, is there a quick fix or is it time for a complete overhaul?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 10:46 PM PST

    My current specs:

    Intel i5-8400

    B360 motherboard

    16 Gb 2666 Mhz RAM

    RTX 3070

    700 watt power supply

    I've had this PC for about 3 and a half years, having upgraded to the RTX3070 in July of last year. The system was working fine until early December when it would reboot after about an hour (maybe less) of playing Red Dead 2. I initially thought it had something to do with that game, but it also happens with other resource intensive games.

    CPU baseline temps are in the 40s/50s (Celsius) but jump to the 70s when gaming and gradually rise over time, shutting down at some point in the high 80s. GPU temps stay in the 70s. The case has a closed front panel so there's not much airflow.

    I bought a can of compressed air to clean out the insides, I've gone into the Bios to have the fans at full power all the time, I've underclocked the GPU, I've removed the side panel ton increase circulation, but nothing seems to work.

    Should I reapply thermal paste to the CPU? Or get a new cooler? Or should I just do an overhaul and upgrade to a i5 12400 and mobo and what not?

    submitted by /u/HotelFoxtrot87
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    MSI Motherboard controller fell off? Fixable, or needed?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 09:21 PM PST

    Hey guys!

    Me and a friend got into a little bit of a sticky situation. While trying to remove a screw a controller on the motherboard close to the IO ports and it.. well, fell off.

    Is this controller necessary? Can it work without it? Is it dangerous to test running the build? Is it a simply solder?

    ​

    The motherboard is a MSI Z97 Gaming 5 board.

    Here are some pictures:

    https://imgur.com/a/67SsvBL

    Thanks :)

    submitted by /u/Jewbebz
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    Computer keeps restarting

    Posted: 31 Jan 2022 02:15 AM PST

    I had a "no hard disk drive detected" problem at first, fixed it and now I'm stuck with this: I turn on the computer, shows the enter the BIOS screen, shows my disk drives, shows the windows logo with preparing self repair, and keeps restarting

    submitted by /u/BananaJason7
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    PC Overheating

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 10:44 PM PST

    I got this prebuilt ASUS ROG pc from Best Buy. It only came with one single exhaust fan on the case (and a cpu fan, but no intake fans) which I did not pay much attention to during purchase. It uses intel 7 11th gen and 3060 by nvidia. During normal usage (browser, word documents) the temperature normally stays around 75-85 (high) and can sometimes reach up to 90-ish degrees (Celsius) and the single exhaust fan can get pretty loud. And when playing games like gta, fortnite, remnant, it's usually around 85 when the fan is running fast. How do I go around this, I know it's not normal and overheating can probably damage my pc. I look at the temperature through Armoury Crate which is a built-in program on ROG pc's. The pc case has a spot for an intake fan but is blocked by the hard drive, it is also on the bottom front of the pc, so I don't think it can effectively cool down the system. The weird thing is, when I open the side panel and put my hand over the cpu fan, I don't really feel much heat, maybe that's not how it works ?

    submitted by /u/not_lyc
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    Help critique my first pc build!

    Posted: 31 Jan 2022 12:36 AM PST

    I had made changes to my build after gathering some feedback and doing some research. Would like to see if this current build is acceptable. Tyty.

    Around USD1365. Will be USD75 cheaper if I use Adata XPG Spectrix 3600mhz 16gb and Superflower Legion HX 650W 80+ Gold instead.

    cooler - id cooling se-214 xt argb

    cpu - intel i5 12400F

    mb - asus prime b660m-a wifi d4

    ram - crucial ballistix 3600 mhz cl18 white 16gb

    ssd - wd blue sn550 1tb nvme m.2 pcie3

    gpu - asus tuf gaming gtx1660 ti 6gb

    psu - Seasonic Focus GX 650W 80+ Gold

    case - tecware forge m2 ARGB TG mATX

    submitted by /u/RoastedMarshmeIIow
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    Monitor goes to no signal when gaming but still can hear audio

    Posted: 31 Jan 2022 12:30 AM PST

    Hi everyone so my problem is that my monitor suddenly goes to no signal yet i can still hear my friends in discord i can even talk to them also i can hear an error message sound but idk what it is cuz the monitor is black. I bought the gpu last november and didnt got into any problems till 4 days ago. I think i need to upgrade my psu to a 750w since nvidia recommends it but im open for suggestions. Btw it happens very rarely most frequently when playing valorant but when i play games like apex and GTAv it seldomly happens unlike valorant after i restart the pc it can happen again like 5 mins later. Recent discovery has been found an hour ago, now my pc CAN restart itself when it goes to black screen. Hope anyone can help

    Specs: 5600x with msi coreliquid 360, evga geforce rtx 3070ti, evga gold 650w psu, kngston and oloy warhawk ram 4x16 3200mhz, b450 tomahawk mobo. 1440p 165hz lg monitor.

    submitted by /u/CJpro123
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    Can someone look at my build and tell me if it's solid?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 05:32 PM PST

    Hey guys, so I'm planning on doing an APU build around the Ryzen 5 5600g that will hold the fort down until the market allows for me to get a GPU. I have a 1080p monitor and plan to use this for easy games like Valorant, League of Legends, Genshin Impact, and maybe AAA games in the future like RDR2, Sekiro, and Witcher 3.

    I know the 5600g isn't magic, but I would like a build that is sustainable and will allow me to play games at an alright setting for now but will eventually get me to high FPS 1080p gaming with a GPU in the future and look aesthetically pleasing

    I live in Canada and my budget is $1000-1200 CAD

    https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/ssp6Mb

    Notes

    MotherBoard

    • I don't know if I'm overpaying for my motherboard. My main concern is something that will be able to handle future plans for more RGB, has Wifi, is somewhat budget, and makes sense with my components

    Memory

    • I'm going budget 1tb SSD but I am unsure if I will need an additional optical/HDD

    Case

    • I wanted a budget case that has a minimalistic look to it. Solid front panel, windowed
    • I was planning on personalizing it with a vinyl wood sticker to mimic the InWin 216 wooden side aesthetic.
    • I don't really like the mesh in the front look of most PCs
    • Unsure if I need more fans (please tell me if I do)

    Cooler

    • I'm going to purchase the NZXT Kraken Z AIO cooler purely out of the LCD.
    • I'm building the PC around the idea that I will be splurging on this one item
    • I might even spend a little bit more on iCUE H100i ELITE LCD Display Liquid CPU 240mm

    Misc Purchases

    • I don't know If I'm going to need an RBG hub (tell me if I do)

    Please let me know if you have any suggestions or thoughts and tell me if anything is incompatible as it would be very helpful guys

    submitted by /u/tsiddybang
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    RX 6600 only maxes out at 100 watts?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 11:20 PM PST

    I just got a sapphire pulse rx 6600, and in all my testing it seems to only pull up to 100 watts. That's what it says in the radeon software for power consumpion and with OCCT. Anyone know why?

    Here's an image of OCCT

    https://i.imgur.com/QF0ofL2.png

    submitted by /u/skoomd1
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    Specific tastes in Keyboard, need advices

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 09:05 PM PST

    Hi friends! I'm not really acknowledgeable in keyboards, and I would love some advices.

    Basically, I've been using a mechanical keyboard for a while (g710+) and I've tried some mechanical keyboards with more of a "click" feeling, but I think I might prefer flat-feeling keys like my Laptop has. That's why I had my eyes on a keyboard like the "Cougar Vantar" or the "Advance GTA 210".
    The problem I need help with is that, I struggle in understanding all the issues like Ghosting and the max count of simultaneously key pressed at the same time... I mean, I somewhat understand them, but I'm really afraid of issues I simply don't know about in that regard (and the Advance GTA 210 looks like a cheap keyboard prone to a lot of similar issues)

    So what I would like is a keyboard fit for gaming, low latency, no problem with multiple keys pressed at the same time, no ghosting and no whatever issue it can possibly have (if it is even possible?), while having flat keys like the keyboards I've mentioned earlier. (I don't mind paying a high price if it's necessary too)

    Aaaand I would add that I would like it not to have macros keys (I plan on using an external device for that) and a big return key (I would have tried the Cougar Vantar already if it wasn't for that small return key, too hard to aim, the Advance GTA has a big return key for reference)

    The thing is that when I search, I can mostly only find mechanical keyboards and I just don't know if what I want exists, if it is a category of some sort, and what are the red flags I might not be aware of to avoid? If you guys have recommendations of where I could search to find a model that would suit my needs, I would really appreciate!

    submitted by /u/Eostream
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    i5-12400 vs R5 5600X - Which one will be easier to upgrade one day?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 11:16 PM PST

    One thing that's bugged me about my current Intel-based rig is that I can't upgrade my CPU without upgrading my mobo, which also means upgrading my RAM and I basically just have to build an entire new system.

    I've heard that AMD plans to use the same socket for a while, so Ryzen CPUs will be able to be upgraded, no problem. Is this true? And if so, comparatively, will the Intel socket be able to offer that same longevity?

    I'm attracted to the 12400 because it's slightly better in gaming, but the 5600X appears to offer much better performance in compression/decompression and some other productivity tasks, while maintaining a very similar gaming performance and a bit of future-proofing due to the long-term support of the AM4 socket. To me, it sounds like the 5600X is the better CPU, but it's also $50 more.

    Is there anything I'm incorrect about or missing here? Is it better to spend the extra $50 and get the 5600X if I can swing it?

    Update: Well, I'm actually seeing mixed results on the gaming benchmarks depending on where I look. Also, I'm hearing AMD is updating their socket soon. I am officially stumped. I just want there to be solid upgrade options 5 years from now without needing to replace my whole rig--as much as I love building a new desktop, history has shown that I cannot afford it for much longer than I think, so I want to make sure I've got at least a little room to grow.

    submitted by /u/KillerTuxedo
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    built a pc a year ago and a few months ago msi dragon center/mystic light stopped detecting my rgb ram (t force delta r @3600), and i cant change the colour, ive tried reinstalling it 3 times, nothing works any suggestions?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 09:03 PM PST

    Upgrading to i5-12600K while keeping GTX 1060

    Posted: 31 Jan 2022 02:59 AM PST

    My desktop is way past it's use-by date but I cannot reason with myself to spend over 2000 € for a brand new build. Therefore I'm thinking about upgrading nearly everything except for my graphics card. Long term goal with this setup is 2K gaming, hopefully when GPUs are back to reasonable prices.

    Below is my current setup and the new parts I've picked. Is there anything you would do differently? Particularly looking for recommendations on the CPU Cooler.

    ​

    Current Purchase Date New
    MoBo ASUS P8H77-V LE Sep 2013 ASUS TUF B660-Plus WiFi D4
    CPU Intel Core i5-3570 Sep 2013 Intel Core i5-12600K
    CPU Cooler Intel Stock Sep 2013 Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB
    RAM Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3-1600 CL9 Sep 2013 Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 2x16GB DDR4-3600 CL18
    GPU ASUS GTX1060 ROG Strix OC 6GB Nov 2016 >>>>> ASUS GTX1060 ROG Strix OC 6GB
    Case Cooler Master HAF 912 Plus Dez 2011 >>>>> Cooler Master HAF 912 Plus
    PSU Cooler Master GX 750W Dez 2011 >>>>> Cooler Master GX 750W
    SSD Kingston A400 240GB SATA Feb 2019 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB
    HDD WD Blue 1TB SATA Jun 2016
    submitted by /u/TropicalLasagna
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    Opinions Requested

    Posted: 31 Jan 2022 02:57 AM PST

    Was hoping you guys can give me some insight on a PC build I plan on doing soon.

    Heres the specs:

    CPU: I7-11700K(or KF due to one being cheaper than the other occasionally on amazon)

    AIO: Corsair H100i (for CPU)

    GPU: 2060 or better( Id like to get a 2060 but im gonna still hold off due prices right now, friggin scalpers!)

    PSU: Corsair RM850X

    Mobo: MSI Mag Z590 Torpedo

    RAM: 64gb Corsair vengeance LPX (3200 mhz, C16, 16x4 sticks)

    M.2 #1: WD Black 250GB Gen 4

    M.2 #2: WD Black 1TB Gen 4

    Case: Antec NX400 (black)

    Keyboard: Corsair K60 Pro

    Mouse: (Corsair RGB Sabre-I currently have, I love it)

    Monitor: Dell S2421HGF 144hz

    ^ (I have no clue about monitors, if you someone could recommend me some that are 144hz and under $300 that would be awesome thanks!)

    This is the current plan, if you guys have any tips or would change anything please let me know!

    submitted by /u/Dylan_M345
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    Top replacement magnetic mesh filters for Phanteks P500A?

    Posted: 31 Jan 2022 02:50 AM PST

    Hey there, I have this case for a year now and the other day I somehow destroyed the magnetic dust filters that are on top of the case. So obviously I am looking to buy new ones.

    Is there someone that has the same PC case and has replaced them?

    submitted by /u/unknownharris
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    24-pin latched/clicked but not fully in

    Posted: 31 Jan 2022 02:46 AM PST

    G'day Reddit.

    So I'm building my own PC for the very first time and despite it being an absolutely nerve-wracking experience, I'm having a blast.

    However, I've run into a bit of an issue with the infamous 24-pin cable. After half an hour of pushing and wriggling, I've managed to get it to latch onto/click into the motherboard connector. However, from the top side, despite being latched, it seems to not be fully in. The bottom side is fully in and the latch is hooked, but however much force I use, I just can't seem to get the top side fully pushed into the connector as well (and to make matters worse, my case doesn't really allow me to put my fingers behind the motherboard to support it while pushing in the 24-pin cable).

    I've done a bit of searching online, but most people's issue seems to be not getting the latch to click - which is more or less the opposite of my issue.

    I've posted two pictures (one from the top, one from the bottom) on Imgur: https://imgur.com/a/ibATyc1.

    In case it's relevant: I'm using Cablemod Pro ModMesh cable extensions.

    Do I need to keep trying to push the cable in more, or should everything be fine the way it is right now?

    Thanks in advance!

    submitted by /u/Godafoss94
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    Would it be worth it to replace a graphics card on a 6 year old rig?

    Posted: 30 Jan 2022 05:55 PM PST

    Nothing has been replaced in my old rig but im getting FPS drops and i can barely run games i could run on max. My GPU is a gtx 950, was wondering if it be worth to buy another gtx 950 or just buy a whole nother PC.

    ​

    Thing is the funds, i was thinking of just slowly upgrading my original rig, or just buying the GPU and as soon as another part gives out building a whole new PC but with that GPU i bought. Thoughts?

    ​

    Also, are there any good, cheap replacements for a gtx 950?

    submitted by /u/Invokationz
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