Home Networking Am I being dDoSed/Port Scanned? If so, why would someone target my house? |
- Am I being dDoSed/Port Scanned? If so, why would someone target my house?
- First-time in charge of internet
- Building a Basic Rack
- Wifi 6 Not getting full speed.
- Moca adapter for point to point.
- No internet access in my garage any suggestions ? I’m looking to get a fast solid connection for my pc rig
- Cable modem ethernet not working after lightning strike
- I need a router recommendation
- Networking rack location (first time rack build)
- Looking to provide wifi coverage for a carpentry shop
- Converting cat3 to ethernet
- Does an AP help remove the devices limit on a router?
- TP Link Deco works through router but not modem
- Yet another MOCA question
- Some websites load slowly while others don't load at all.
- I am looking for a router to connect to my modem wirelessly
- Does my ISP use CG-NAT?
- Use NordVPN on Asus Archer C7 router?
- Dumb question here... Do I need to secure my Modem?
- Coax to Ethernet Outlet?
- Need help bringing dinosaur printer into this century!!!
- I think my Double NAT scenario is making me unable to play online Nintendo games. No issues unless connecting to Nintendo servers. Can you help me fix it so I don't have to follow their advice of using DMZ mode or forwarding all UDP ports?
- Network upgrade time: upgrade to switch and connect two wireless access points, or upgrade router and use Wi-Fi repeater.
- Help picking a WiFi AP (4x4 or 2x2?)
- Modem Restarts 3 to 4 time a day at random
| Am I being dDoSed/Port Scanned? If so, why would someone target my house? Posted: 18 Jul 2021 09:19 AM PDT Earlier tonight my flat mates and I were all playing an online game together. And we were all collectively getting horrifically stuttery ping that was jumping between 25 up to 600 and every number in between. We were teleporting all over the place. Our call over discord was also cutting in and out which meant it wasn't the game server. It must have somehow been local to us/our internet connection. I ran a ping test to my Default Gateway and the pings were all returning from 10ms up to 800 erratically. I unplugged the fibre input from the router and the pings went back down to <1ms which means it wasn't the router itself or any of the switches/anything relating to the internal network. After checking the router and finding out the firewall was somehow turned off, I re activated it and it fixed the issue, internal pings to the router are back down to <1ms. My router logs are being filled with dropped packet requests from a large range of different IPv4 Addresses... Ive changed the password to the router and double checked the security so thats all good...but I was wondering.. Why would someone out there be targeting my house like that? And secondly, do I need to be worried about the devices on the network being infected with anything since the firewall was down and external traffic could flood my router like that? Photo of the logs for those curious... https://i.imgur.com/tYvg52C.png [link] [comments]  |
| First-time in charge of internet Posted: 18 Jul 2021 03:55 PM PDT Moving to a new building that only has Fios internet - should I go with the default router ($15/mo) or look into buying my own? I'll likely be working with the 200mbps plan with the possibility of upgrading to the 400mbps later. How are the following routers (looking from Costco.com)?
Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2021 10:10 AM PDT I just graduated college with a CS degree. So as I have some time/space/money on my hands I want to test my metal and build a simple rack for a home network. I have an decent idea of how it all needs to go together but what better way is there than actually building something? So I am looking for used hardware recommendations. I was thinking the thing should include at the very least a rackmount switch, firewall, maybe a fileserver, then I am also in the market for a WAP. My only caveat is I don't want to futz with licensing. What should I look into buying/what should I include in the rack I am open to a lot of ideas? [link] [comments]  |
| Wifi 6 Not getting full speed. Posted: 18 Jul 2021 08:22 AM PDT Hello, I have been struggling with this issue for a while now. I bought the AX11000 routers from both TP-Link and Asus, and now I am on Verizon's G3100, and the issue has been extremely similar in all cases. Using a 1Gbps up and down fiber internet connection on a Wifi 6 device I get about 600Mbps down, and about 200Mbps up on a Speedtest.net(App) speed test, but when I test to a local LAN device(Wifi->LAN) I get full wire speed 1Gbps up and down. I tried testing the speed in another home that was setup by Verizon Fios, and the result was the same. I am using 160Mhz on the 5ghz channel. The devices establish a 2400Mbps link to the router. Does anybody have any suggestion as to what this issue could be? (Edit: I added text to clarify that my speed from a WIFI 6 device to a Ethernet connected computer goes at the full speed of the Ethernet connection. I would also like to add that my previous WIFI 5 router at 80Mhz had a higher upload result.) [link] [comments]  |
| Moca adapter for point to point. Posted: 18 Jul 2021 08:39 AM PDT Hello, So I have to move my desk to one of the few places in the house that doesn't have Ethernet. It does, however, have coax right next to it. I was wondering if I could buy two of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265204927899?epid=8047791822&hash=item3dbf720d9b:g:TxYAAOSw8IxgkzXf And connect one to the ethernet cable in my utility room (currently not attached to anything) and the other to the coax port in the room where my desk is moving. They say frontier but will they work without frontier equipment/service? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:27 PM PDT I recently moved my Pc setup outside from my home into my garage. I was using the Orbi RBR-50 model which came with one satellite & one Router. They worked great I had an Ethernet cable to my pc. I looked into power adapters & WiFi extenders tbh I don't think they are reliable. I was thinking about running a coax cable from my home attic to my garage. What is a good solution guys, What do I need for my garage [link] [comments]  |
| Cable modem ethernet not working after lightning strike Posted: 18 Jul 2021 08:09 AM PDT Had a nasty lightning strike last night that tripped the breaker for the room my modem was in. All of the electronics in that room seem to have survived just fine, but for some reason I can't seem to connect anything to my modem anymore. What's weird is that it seems to work fine otherwise. I plug it in and all the status lights look fine, but nothing I plug into it over ethernet can get a connection. I've tried three different cables and none of them work. I've also noticed that the status lights on the ethernet ports will blink even when nothing is plugged into them. I've also tried power cycling and resetting several times. Is it possible that the lightning strike fried the ethernet ports somehow? I find that hard to believe since nothing else seems to have been damaged, but I don't know what else it could be. Could it be an issue on my ISP's side? Again, that seems unlikely to me since the status lights on the front of the modem aren't indicating any issues. I'm at a bit of a loss here. Would rather not have to buy a new modem. Any ideas? The modem is an Arris SB8200. EDIT: Bit the bullet and went out to get a new modem and it works fine - looks like y'all were right. Didn't consider that the modem could have been fried through the coax connection. Definitely gonna look into getting a surge protector for that. Thanks all. [link] [comments]  |
| I need a router recommendation Posted: 18 Jul 2021 04:50 PM PDT We basically just received 300/100 fiber connection for first time. We used to have 10/1 which our old Asus RT-N12+ B1 could handle without problem, but max it can do now is 90/100. Now what we need is a router that could send the WIFI connection to the floor above us with strong signal. Our apartment and apartment above us are both about 1250 square feet big. Router also needs to do 300/100 through cable which goes to my girlfriend's PC. What I need from router to recap:
Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Networking rack location (first time rack build) Posted: 18 Jul 2021 07:53 PM PDT I'm just beginning my home networking journey, any help or guidance to resources will be appreciated. I recently moved into a new home that is wired with Ethernet, all Ethernet terminates in the basement. My core question is, will I need to locate my planned new networking rack (modem, router, switch, servers, NAS) in the basement or is there a simple way to place the rack upstairs without 'moving' where all of the Ethernet currently terminates? My limited knowledge suggests the path of least resistance is just putting everything in the basement side by side but figured I'd ask people far more knowledgeable than myself since I'd rather have easier access to the hardware... so thanks for reading if you've gotten this far! [link] [comments]  |
| Looking to provide wifi coverage for a carpentry shop Posted: 18 Jul 2021 07:51 AM PDT My cousin reached out to me and asked if I could help him get network coverage to his carpentry shop. The shop is on his property, about 150 feet from his house. It's a big shop (approx 60x100ft). I am not sure what solution is best for him. His house has one router in his home that provides coverage. Would a strong mesh router solution work? I don't think that they could connect to each other from 150 feet away, but I could be wrong. I let him know that it may be best to just ask the internet company to run another fiber line to his shop. Thoughts? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2021 07:43 PM PDT Very new here and don't understand much of what gets posted but here is my story. My wife and I both work from home and she has major issues with latency during work and overall performance is just laggy. She is using Citrix server and is on that during the entire day with random video calls in-between. We have an Orbi system and wifi strength is great in her office with speeds of 300-450 during the day. My thought process was that if that isn't enough the only other solution is a hardline connection. My house was built in 1998 and has a phone jack in every room. I decided to check where the drops were to see what cables they were running hoping to see cat5 or better. The drops look like an absolute mess and I had no idea was I was looking at. Unfortunately, every single cable said cat3. A friend of mine mentioned that cat3 was a no go and would only support up to 100mbps. Every cable did have the same 4 pairs as a cat5. I honestly thought it was still worth the shot to give it a go and it looked like a fun project. After hooking up some keystones and giving it a speedtest the outlet was pulling 95mbps consistently. Hooray! After that I decided to hookup my office for Ethernet as well (why not) and after doing so my speeds were 460mbps! On cat3 cables! This finding made me buy a patch panel and a switch and just convert every outlet I could find. At the end of the project, 5/6 outlet rewired were receiving 460mbps with the exception of one outlet only getting 95mbps. Here is the finished look. Anyways, that is my cat3 story. Hopefully it works out better for both of us! tl;dr rewired all my phone jacks to Ethernet using the existing cat3 cables and receive 460mbps (Max for plan) on every outlet but one which receives 95mbps consistently [link] [comments]  |
| Does an AP help remove the devices limit on a router? Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:51 AM PDT As the title says. If a wireless router can only handle 20 wireless devices for example, will the devices that get the wifi from an AP connected to that router are not counted towards that number 20 limit? As far as I know, if the IP address of the router is 192.168.1.1, the AP and all the devices that are connected to the AP's wifi will have an IP address of 192.168.1.x. Does that mean all the loads are still on the router? [link] [comments]  |
| TP Link Deco works through router but not modem Posted: 18 Jul 2021 07:12 PM PDT I am having an issue getting internet to work for my TP Link Deco from my modem. It previously was working just plugged into the back of the modem but now it does not. I can plug it through a separate TP Link router and it works that is also connected to my modem which is weird to me. I have even tried unplugging/resetting everything and only plugging Deco to Modem and it does not provide internet to the DECO. Any suggestions out there? Pardon my ignorance in the matter, I am not fantastic when it come to the vernacular of networking. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2021 07:06 PM PDT I know this question has been asked a lot but the research I've been doing just isn't registering in my head.. I have coax outlets on all 3 floors of my house. I currently have my modem and router connected to one in the basement. I want to connect another router to use as an access point on the second floor for an eufy doorbell and a third router/access point on the third floor because that computer requires an ethernet link. Am I correct in thinking that for the basement: Coax outlet > moca adapter > modem. Then using ethernet cable to connect modem to router and that should work for the basement?Then on the second and third floor, coax outlet > moca adapter > router? I believe this is the splitter connecting the entire house. Is this moca adaptable and can it handle 1.2gbps (xfinity)? Should it be replaced? I plan on getting 3 gocoax MA2500D's. Also, I don't have any TV's or anything else connected with the coax, nor do I plan to. [link] [comments]  |
| Some websites load slowly while others don't load at all. Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:54 PM PDT I have been having wifi issues on my main PC all day. But when I did the troubleshooting error this is what it responded. When I opened Chrome it said: DNS_PROBE STARTED. I have tried to flush the DNS serever using command prompt but that has not worked. Sometimes it has switched back from the wifi icon to the globe icon every now and then. How do I fix this? [link] [comments]  |
| I am looking for a router to connect to my modem wirelessly Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:53 PM PDT I have a Telus fibre optic modem set up in a home studio on the top floor of the house. I have trouble getting a consistent internet connection to the game console and media/gaming PC at the opposite end of the house in the basement. I currently have a TP Link AC1750 wifi range extender in the middle of the house and an ethernet cable running from the extender to a netgear GS308E network switch near the PC in the basement. I am not happy with the trouble the TP Link causes with frequently dropped connections, low speed, and very high bufferbloat. I tried fixing the bufferbloat with the rate limit method on the Netgear switch, but the dslreports test results are very inconsistent and poor overall. I am thinking I need to replace the TP Link with a better router but I do not know what would work well on a wireless connection to the modem. Every example I see online shows the routers being connected to the modem via ethernet but unfortunately that is not an option with the distance that needs to be covered and the possible eye sore or tripping hazard it would create in the studio. Are there any routers out there that would be suitable to connect to the modem wirelessly? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:45 PM PDT I would appreciate it if you guys share your knowledge and help me with my confusion. I'm trying to troubleshoot the endless issues I have with UPnP and read somewhere that miniupnpd blocks traffic if it's coming from WAN with a private IP address (RFC1918). As far as I'm aware, my ISP does not use CG-NAT, and I do not have double NAT (at least this is what they keep saying to me), but in pfSense and besides my WAN public address, I have another WAN_PPOE IP address which is an RFC1918 private address. https://i.imgur.com/cAVzkUb.jpg https://i.imgur.com/R3ZFALi.jpeg Does that mean pfSense communicate with my WAN with a private IP address 10.20.xx.xx? If no, why is my IPv4 Gateway is private address 10.20.xx.xx instead of 203.166.xx.xx public address? https://i.imgur.com/rDNQo2N.png Here is the traceroute result to google.com in Pfsense: [link] [comments]  |
| Use NordVPN on Asus Archer C7 router? Posted: 18 Jul 2021 11:08 AM PDT Hi! I recently bought an Asus router for my apartment, as the stock router provided by my ISP was locked (and also didn't have 5GHz, which in an apartment building where everyone else is broadcasting on 2.4GHz kinda sucks). I chose this model as I found a deal for like $10 for a brand new one, 2 year warranty and all (some guy got one for free and didn't need it I guess). However, I'm having some difficulty finding information on how to use a VPN (NordVPN) on it. I need it on my router so I can stream TV shows not available in my country on my TVs at home, which unfortunately do not support VPN. What I understand is that I'll need to install custom firmware on it, but I can't find a good guide saying which one is compatible with my router. Are there any options for it? Preferably, something that is easy to manage from your phone. If anyone can at least point me in the right direction, I'll be super grateful. Thank you! [link] [comments]  |
| Dumb question here... Do I need to secure my Modem? Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:36 PM PDT Hi! Do I need to secure my modem by login into it or something or is it simply "plug and play"? I know I need to log in to my router and make sure the password is difficult. Is there a similar process for modems?? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2021 12:21 PM PDT Hello folks, A while ago, my ISP came and setup my home network. The modem/router box is in my locker because that where the optical fibre ends. Seeing that the router wouldn't be next to my PC, I told the technician that I wanted a wired connection for my PC. Basically, he just swapped the coax outlet of my office for a RJ45 outlet. Everything's working fine and I have no speed loss. Now, I want to do the same thing with the coax outlet in my living room. After a bit of research, all I found was some crazy expensive adapters. Do you have any ideas on what the technician used for my office? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Need help bringing dinosaur printer into this century!!! Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:15 PM PDT I have an HP LaserJet M225dn printer that is not wireless. (Apparently, the dw model has wireless) As far as I can tell the only way to connect to my network is via ethernet cable to the modem/router, and this is not an option because of the distance. (I apologize, I'm trying to explain this the best I can but I'm not a tech person) From what I can gather, there might be two possible options. If money wasn't an object, I would just purchase a new wireless printer as I realize they're fairly inexpensive. However I've been waiting months for unemployment as well as jobhunting and at this point need to save every dollar I can. The only ports on the printer is the Ethernet port, high speed 2.0 usb and two ports for telephone/fax. Option one would be to find out if some kind of converter exists that can convert the 2.0 power USB cable in such a way that I could connect and print from an iPad/iPhone using the charging cable- which would at least be somewhat easier than what I have to do now. Option two, and the best solution would be a Bluetooth wireless adapter of some sort. But even after watching many videos and reading many articles, a phone call to Best Buy and a phone call to HP support (you wanted money to answer any questions) I cannot get a definitive answer. Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this scenario? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:05 PM PDT I'm using a WISP. Never used to have this problem so I'm not sure what changed. The only hardware I have from them is a dish on a 70ft tower. A single cable comes down into my house, plugs into an old Motorola power adapter, which then has an end that gets plugged into the Internet port on the back of my Linksys WRT3200ACM, running the latest OpenWRT available. The WAN address is private (192.168.10.2), and when I visit it, it takes me to my routers login (same as 192.168.1.1). If I visit 192.168.10.2, I arrive at Cambium Networks page for the dish on my tower or the main WISP tower. Tells me my product type is a PMP 450. I have no login information for this. My public facing IP address has been the same for 10 years. WISP says it's dynamic but it has never changed. The issue I started having a few months ago was Nintendo games wouldn't connect to their online servers. I get NAT Type D, NAT Traversal Failed. I used to be able to connect and play online, not sure when first I stopped being able to. Nintendo's suggested fixes are setting the router to DMZ, forwarding all UDP ports, or to buy a new router. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2021 06:00 PM PDT My dlink dir822 is finally breaking. Require advice on an upgrade scheme. My home is a single floor rectangle with the router in one corner and a tp link ac1750 roughly in the middle. Near my router are 4 devices that connect with gigabit lan. On the opposing corner of the rectangle (long ways) is another gigabit lan device (xboxone currently through Wi-Fi but I prefer lan) and a video streaming stick. Other network considerations are two outdoor Wi-Fi cameras, three cell phones, two laptops, a switch, and two tablets. Currently, if I'm streaming Netflix, YouTube, or from my plex server (nas via lan @ router) on the streaming stick it is starting to buffer and stop. Cell reception is weak there two. What I'm thinking of doing is getting a managed gigabit switch (8 gigabit ports over the 4 10/100 I have now) and putting it in the place of my router. I'll run the dhcp from there and run a cat5 cable through the attic to the other end of the house, and get two wireless access points to put at both ends of the house. If one of the wireless access points supports link aggregation I can run two cat5 cables from the router (I have enough laying around). I also would like vlan because I might be sharing internet in a few months and the security seems nice. I could do all that, or just upgrade my router. Sure I could still run one lan cable through the attic to a wireless access point, but that sounds boring and don't tell my partner that lol. Thoughts please? [link] [comments]  |
| Help picking a WiFi AP (4x4 or 2x2?) Posted: 18 Jul 2021 01:32 PM PDT Shopping for a new access point (or two) and need help deciding is 4x4 AC is worth it. I tend to have about three devices online and active at a time in my 90 square foot house, plus another five online but idle. All are 1x1 or 2x2 AC and I'm not planning to upgrade anything to AX soon (would rather wait for 6E). My ISP provides 200/20Mbps service and I may upgrade to 400/40 in the next year or two. The area to be covered measured about 30x30 (main house) plus a backyard measuring 60x60. Currently a centrally located 802.11n router serves everything on 2.4Ghz and can manage about 60Mbps indoors (best case) or 10Mbps in the far end of the yard. That is being replaced with a pfsense box and a separate AP (or two). Given the small house size and limited number of devices, I'm thinking I can get away with a single high quality access point centrally located in the house, plus a lower end AP for the yard. My question comes down to whether 4x4 wave 2 AC will provide any benefit over a 2x2 wave 2 for the main AP that serves most devices the majority of the time. I know it can't hurt….but how much will it help, given all my devices are 1x1 or 2x2? Is this purely a theoretical difference? I'm finding conflicting information online so I'm hoping someone who knows their stuff can respond. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Modem Restarts 3 to 4 time a day at random Posted: 18 Jul 2021 08:27 AM PDT We are with Cogeco and pay for 1G service, but as of semi recently we have been experiencing modem resets at random time throughout the day after 6 tech support calls and 2 service techs to the house, they continue to tell us there is nothing wrong. they replaced the modem from a Hitron to an Arris modem but they continue to do the same thing. after looking at the modems logs i am seeing DBC-REQ Mismatch Between Calculated Value for P1.6hi Compared to CCAP Provided Value;CM-MAC=88:71:b1:de:90:d1;CMTS-MAC=d4:2c:44:7c:ac:ea;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.1;07/18/2021 09:56:02 Voice Line State Change, Line Number = 1, Prev State = OOS, New State = IS07/18/2021 09:44:08 Voice Line State Change, Line Number = 2, Prev State = OOS, New State = IS07/18/2021 09:44:08 MTA TFTP: Successful07/18/2021 09:44:05InformationProvisioning Complete07/18/2021 09:44:05 MTA PROV: Successful!07/18/2021 09:44:05 MIMO Event MIMO: Stored MIMO=-1 post cfg file MIMO=-1;CM-MAC=88:71:b1:de:90:d1;CMTS-MAC=d4:2c:44:7c:ac:ea;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.1;07/18/2021 09:43:47 DHCP RENEW WARNING - Field invalid in response v4 option;CM-MAC=88:71:b1:de:90:d1;CMTS-MAC=d4:2c:44:7c:ac:ea;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.1;07/18/2021 06:14:36 No Ranging Response received - T3 time-out;CM-MAC=88:71:b1:de:90:d1;CMTS-MAC=d4:2c:44:7c:ac:ea;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.1;07/18/2021 05:57:25 This is just what has happened today in the logs, i know the MIMO event is the Modem restarting but i don't understand what would be causing it because the the mismatch and renew warnings are after or too long before the actual restarts. Any trouble shooting tips would be greatly appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
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