Home Networking What makes a valid MAC address? I thought it was as simple as 6 hexadecimal digits, as many sources have suggested. |
- What makes a valid MAC address? I thought it was as simple as 6 hexadecimal digits, as many sources have suggested.
- Horrible Windstream internet services drops when bathroom light is turned on
- Long Term Internet Speed Problem
- ActionTec MoCA 2.5 Adapter speeds are slow, but only on Download speeds.
- Should my Modem/Router and ONU have there own dedicated outlets?
- Edgerouter X not giving full speed
- Wireless USB adapter with Realtek 8812BU chipset suddenly no longer able to connect to any networks. Still detects them all but can't connect to any. Any ideas?
- Slow Wired Connection
- Can you connect a T568A cable to a T568B cable?
- Serial-to-Ethernet Question
- do i have this "shopping list" correct for what i want to do?
- 2 router help
- Need advice improving my (semi-large) home network (~60 devices)
- How to send cable signal to a TV in another room?
- Using a switch vs router.
- I'm interested in setting up certain type of network..
- Bet Modem and Router for large family home?
- Routers
- Netgear X6 R7900 unable to reset. I have try holding reset button with varying length but it will not reset the factory default. Please help.
- Home network for house remodel
- WiFi 6 Router - Is Now the Time?
- Will a Mesh WiFi system provide stable connection for gaming/browsing?
- Are all VPN’s created equal?
- VPN on router or VPN on a client
- Asus RT-AC86U How to Enable DFS in Canada?
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 02:55 PM PST For example, this is invalid, and I don't know why: `d4:21:c8:fe:a6:7a` I generated it with the following: `openssl rand -hex 6` And I'm trying to use it to change my MAC address. [link] [comments]  |
| Horrible Windstream internet services drops when bathroom light is turned on Posted: 21 Jan 2021 02:10 AM PST I have DSL internet services over a land line that I've replaced twice. Speed tests are 800 Kilobits/s Down, 100 Kilobits/s Up; yes Kb/s....Actiontec T3200 WiFi modem supplied by WS. And as mentioned, everytime I turn on the bathroom light the internet service drops. The bathroom light fixture is a combo exhaust fan and weird LED-type light bulb. The fixture is wired to two switches on the wall, one for the fan and one for the light. The light switch is a bit unusual. The switch itself is transparent and has a tiny (night) light which is on when the room light is off. In searching for noisy RF signals or electric power drops in the house, I have a couple of dimmer light switches in the house but they do not cause an interruption of the internet service. So I'm asking why using a light switch kills my internet service? Is it because the service is so horrible any power fluctuation kills it or should I look for power shorts in the electric service? Your help is greatly appreciated...Fullhouz out Edit: Success! Removed the two light bulbs in the bathroom fixture, tested on/off, no interruption in DSL. The bulbs causing the drop are FELT Electric brand, CEA800/5K/LED/10 9W/5000K/800lm. Speed tested, 2.9Mb/s Down, 90 Kb/s Up, re-ran test 5 times, same result. Replaced the two bulbs with Ecosmart brand, 4.5W LED bulb, 1001 757 404, tested on/off, no interruption in DSL. I'm going to continue the troubleshooting everything suggested here and report back with result to, hopefully, improve the speed and reliability. MANY THANKS TO EVERYONE. [link] [comments]  |
| Long Term Internet Speed Problem Posted: 21 Jan 2021 03:30 PM PST Hey guys, I'm at a loss here and I'm looking for help... I have 1000MB internet service. For over a year I was getting over 900MB download speeds and around 50MB upload speeds, which is exactly what I'd expect to get. Since November, however, I've been getting between 200-280MB download speed and still around 45-50MB upload speed. This has been a constant thing. I haven't run a single speed test where I reached 300MB download speed, and I've been testing during times where I wasn't experiencing exceptionally slow internet, just random tests to see if it was ever going to go back to normal... It hasn't. My WiFi speed tests are coming in at around the same download speed as my wired ethernet connection (upload speeds are much lower on WiFi, which is to be expected I guess). I've got the same router (Netgear Nighthawk R7000) and modem (Arris SB8200) as before. I've tried connecting directly to my modem and bypassing the router. Same result. I've had my ISP come out to my house and they said the connections coming in were good and their only suggestion was that maybe they had throttled the speed down for the neighborhood because another customer was getting too much speed or something..... Which sounded strange. I asked them to please service the neighborhood box because I'm paying for 1000MB speed and I'd like to get that for which I've paid. That was several weeks ago, and there's been no change. The only differences I can think of are that:
TL;DR: [link] [comments]  |
| ActionTec MoCA 2.5 Adapter speeds are slow, but only on Download speeds. Posted: 21 Jan 2021 06:00 PM PST So I need to get a gigabit internet up my the second floor of my house (networking is currently in the basement), and we don't have ethernet ran throughout the house, but do have RG6 Coax cabling. I bought This, an Actiontec Moca 2.5 2 pack for my setup, I have a FreeNAS server that I need to have a good 1000mbps speed to and from so this product looked like it would do the trick. My network config simply is as follows: Router -----ethernet----> MoCA adapter 1 -----RG6 to the 2nd floor-----> Moca adapter 2 -----ethernet to computer with 1 gigabit NIC. (I also tested, there is no signal loss over the long coaxial cable run) So for a baseline number here are the avg speeds with the computer plugged into the router. Its a high-speed NAS on my LAN, btw. Down: 112MB/s Up: 112MB/s Here are the speeds with the MOCA adapter Down: 60MB/s Up: 112MB/s So with the upload speed using the MOCA adapter, it is saturating my gigabit connection to my NAS, but downloading from the NAS, it is about half of the gigabit... Also running some iPerf3 tests on the local network, I found the same results. Connected to router, no Moca adapter: approx 1000mbps. Connected through MoCA adapter: approx 400mbps. However, using multiple threads on the iPerf test ( adding -P 5) to the command, I was able to get speeds up to around 1000mbps. However, this isnt a real-world scenario, for example Windows still only downloads files from my NAS at around 50-60MB/s, and many websites and services don't support multi-thread connections. Does anybody know what could be happening, or what a solution would be to this? Maybe this brand of Moca has this issue? Thanks in advance for any suggestions or comments. [link] [comments]  |
| Should my Modem/Router and ONU have there own dedicated outlets? Posted: 21 Jan 2021 07:13 PM PST Heyo, i've had at&t fiber for a good few years now. When the technician set me up he suggested keeping the Modem on its own outlet, and the at&t ONU on its own outlet and not using any power strips/wall warts. I didn't mind sacrificing the outlets at the time, but now I really do need to use them for other stuff. Is there any harm in me plugging other stuff in? Would I be okay to use a surge protector? (not wallwart/powerstrip) [link] [comments]  |
| Edgerouter X not giving full speed Posted: 21 Jan 2021 01:53 PM PST Upgraded from 100/10mbs to 400/100mbs. Even after the upgrade I'm only getting 100/10mbs. Tried so far: Still nothing. What is going on with this ?!?! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 05:47 PM PST Hi, For the past several months I've been using a generic wireless adapter set up on the edge of my apartment patio, along with a USB extension cable, to access 2 different public wifi hotpsots as well as, very occasionally, the guest network of a local nearby business, on my Windows 10 (x64) laptop. (I had to cancel my home internet due to lack of income during the pandemic but realized I could access these networks one evening when on my patio with my cel phone). Everything had been working fine until about a week ago, when the adapter suddenly stopped being able to connect to any network at all. It can't even connect to the wifi hotspot from my cel phone, which the laptop can connect to using it's built-in network card. The USB adapter can still detect all the same nearby networks as before but it can no longer connect to any. When I attempt to establish a connection it tries for a few seconds and then reports "can't connect to this network". The public wifi hotspots are open/unsecured, whereas my cel phone hotspot uses a password with WPA2-Personal encryption, and I previousy had no problems to connecting to any of these. When I first got the adapter, Windows had a default driver for it that worked okay but didn't give me laptop the option of creating a wifi hotspot with the adapter, and the connection also suffered periodic drop-outs. So I installed the device-specific driver and things worked much better from then on, until these recent problems. Adapter Info: Realtek 8812BU Wireless LAN 802.11ac USB NIC The device is a generic "Dual Band USB Adapter" that I bought off AliExpress that supports 802.11ac wireless (aka Wifi5) at up to 1200Mbps. The adapter looks like this: Photo of adapter in package: https://i.imgur.com/5Iosj6m.jpg It uses the Realtek 8200BU chipset. It is listed in the Device Manger as: Realtek 8812BU Wireless LAN 802.11ac USB NIC It came with a mini-cd that contained driver version 1030.22.405.2017 along with RealTek's "USB Wireless LAN Utility", an alternate wireless manager that lets you view available networks etc. I was able to get a more recent driver version from the Realtek website: 1030.25.0701.2017 And somewhere else in my searching I found what appeared to be a more recent version: 1030.38.304.2019 This most recent version is the version that had been installed and working fine for the past several months until about a week ago. Attempted Fixes I've tried numerous different things to fix the issue but nothing has worked and I'm really at a loss. I've tried uninstalling the adapter via Device Manager, and also uninstalled the associated software via the Control Panel. I tried plugging the adapter back in and allowing Windows to install the default drivers it did previously, that previously worked. This fails. The adapter can detect all nearby networks as before, but can't connect to any. I've also tried uninstalling the adapter and reinstalling the adpter-specific drivers before re-inserting the adapter so Windows can even install it's default drivers. This fails also. Again, the adapter can detect all nearby networks but can't actually connect to any. Last night I thought I had a eureka moment when I realized that Windows had installed some updates right around when the problems started. I checked my laptop's update history and determined that two Windows 10 updates, KB4535680 and KB4598229, were installed about a week ago, right around the same time as the problems started. So I uninstalled those updates and rebooted. Still no difference. Tried uninstalling and reinstalling the adatper/drivers again after uninstalling the Windows 10 updates and still no difference. I also tried using an identical backup adapter (I bought 2), and experienced the same problems. Other Info My version of windows is: Windows 10 Home, Version 1909, OS build 18363.1257 Once thing that I don't know whether is relevant so will mention is that ever since first installing the drivers & companion software the adpater, my laptop now takes way longer to boot up then it did previously. Even after logging in, the hard drive will be active for at least 3-4 minutes more. That never used to happen. So I don't whether some software is fighting with other software or what. If anyone has any ideas I would be extremely grateful. If there are any specific adapter settings or other specs that would be helpful for me to provide, just say so. I'm familiar with the Device Manager interface and the command prompt, but if there are specific commands I'd need to issue in the command prompt to see the desired stats, please tell me what commands to use. Thanks for taking the time to read. EDIT: Just to add, I've tried all the basic stuff such as simply rebooting, or telling Windows to "forget" previously associated networks. EDIT: I have also tried using a different USB extension cable. No difference. I have also tried plugging the adapter directly into the laptop with no USB extension cable used at all. Still same problem. Can't even connect to my phone's wifi hotspot. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 09:09 PM PST Hi Folks, I am experiencing slow wired download speeds, compared to what my modem should get. Here are the details. Setup: CM1000 Modem-->R9000 Nighthawk router R9000 has QoS, parental controls, traffic meter, access control disabled, running firmware V1.0.5.26 400Mbps internet service Problem: On the R9000, I am getting download speeds of 470+ Mbps when using the speedtest mechanism of both the modem and router. This aligns with my Internet plan, yet when I connect via CAT6 directly to the router, I am getting ~200 Mbps (about half like other posts have mentioned). This observed speed has been replicated on two different machines, with different cables. Solutions Attempted to no avail:
Is there some magical setting I am missing? Both the modem and router seem to be able to consistently get 400+ Mbps, yet I can't get the router to allow the same on multiple machines. [link] [comments]  |
| Can you connect a T568A cable to a T568B cable? Posted: 21 Jan 2021 08:51 PM PST I'm going to be wiring my house for ethernet shortly and I recently just learned about the difference between T568A and T568B. I know there is already a lot of information out there about T568A and T568B already but some of it seems to be contradictory and the rest is often explained so vaguely I can't quite understand exactly what works and what doesn't, so I'm hoping someone can set me straight. My rough system looks like this: service will enter in the garage and connect to a switch. The switch will have a number of connections to a patch panel in a structured media center. Each of those patches will run through the walls to different rooms where they will terminate at keystones. And then we'll connect various devices to those keystones. I don't need T568A's backwards compatibility and my understanding is that T568B is preferable because it has "better signal isolation and noise protection", so T568B seems like the way to go. But what I'm confused by is exactly what mix of cables will work. These are basically the cables I have again:
My understanding is that the two ends of each of these cables must use the same wiring scheme (otherwise it becomes a crossover cable). But what I'm not sure of is whether some of those cables can be T568A and some can be T568B? It's not really a problem if they all have to be T568B, I'm more just wondering whether I have to watch out for someone else (or myself) unintentionally using a T568A cable between a device and a keystone and being confused why it's not working. Thanks for your help! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 08:38 PM PST I am playing around with some older equipment and have an external modem that requires a serial DB9 connection. If I were to use a serial-to-Ethernet cable to connect my laptop (with the Ethernet side) to the external modem, do I need an software to ensure the communication works properly? Do I need an actual hardware converter? Will software such as PuTTY help or so I need something like Serial-to-Ethernet Connector from eltima.com? Any help and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| do i have this "shopping list" correct for what i want to do? Posted: 21 Jan 2021 09:06 AM PST Background: New home, ~4500 sqft + unfinished basement which we plan on finishing eventually, rural. Best internet choice is T-Mobile Home Internet (which means that Gateway placement has a very significant effect on speeds). To get the best speeds (a difference of nearly 100% through my basic testing) the gateway has to be placed at the far end of the house, this also means that everyone else in the house benefits from the speed except for me (I'm literally at the furthest point from the gateway and then up a floor). What I was thinking was to create a networking closet/rack to solve my problem, while allowing for future expansion and cleaning up our current Nest camera situation (had an electrician come out to do a bid on installing some new outdoor rated plugs for the cameras, and we're looking at hundreds of dollars per, so I'm trying to avoid this). I'm not married to any brands of specific products, just want to know what to research. I'm thinking
The switch will:
Is there anything glaring that I'm forgetting? Would placing the gateway at the end of the house, and running Cat6 to the switch in the basement have any negative effect compared to having the gateway and switch in the enclosure and running the Cat6 through the basement to their destinations? TIA. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 08:11 PM PST Hi y'all I've spent the last 6 hours trying to setup an additional router in my home. I am able to access the router I just got(Netgear nighthawk x6) webpage via putting in the IP address into my search bar, but I am unable to get access the the comtrend router by putting it's ip in the search bar. I have opened the command prompt and found my gateway ip but that still isn't working and I've tried all the other ip's that google says to put in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| Need advice improving my (semi-large) home network (~60 devices) Posted: 21 Jan 2021 08:06 PM PST Hi everyone I was hoping you guys can help me with improving my current home network. I've been feeling some congestion lately and some weird things acting happening. Figured it'd be a good time to look at improving it. I'll try to keep everything short and sweet. I live in familial triplex spanning 2 floors + basement. It's an old house so there's no networking cabling. I'm using 4x Google Wifi and daisy chaining 4 unmanaged switches scattered across the house in order to bring network connectivity and wifi range. I have a bunch of smart home devices, a couple of NAS', a plex server, and the usual PCs, laptops, etc. Since we're 3 households, we have a lot of wifi devices such as phones, tablets, chromecasts, firesticks, rokus, etc. My current setup is Modem -> Primary Google Wifi -> 16port switch ---into another room--> 4 port switch --into another room--> 4port switch --> Google Wifi node --into another room--> 4 port switch --into another--> Google wifi node I've been looking at Ubiquiti managed switches and Unifi APs and I was wondering if it's worthwhile to replace the Google Wifi ecosystem with the Unifi one. I watched quite a few of Crosstalk Solutions YT videos and they've been really informative. I'm just not sure if I'll truly benefit from something like a USG or EdgeRouter? From a security perspective, I believe it would be beneficial to segregate all smart home devices into their own VLAN, but that would require managed switches and an AP for a dedicated SSID. From a performance perspective, I'm not sure what the benefits are? what are you thoughts? What is the best setup in order to get the most out of my network? So, here's where I need your opinion and expertise on how I can improve this? Can anyone give me the jist on what's the best practice? Or if you can link me to any good resource setting up large home networks, i'd be super grateful! Ideally, i'd prefer to spend the least amount of money on new devices (Ubiquiti ain't cheap!), if I can re-use some of the stuff I have, it'd be great. [link] [comments]  |
| How to send cable signal to a TV in another room? Posted: 21 Jan 2021 11:21 AM PST So I'm trying to help my mom in her fight against Spectrum's cable prices. She watches television in three rooms: her bedroom, the kitchen, and the downstairs living room. Recently, she got tired of paying for three different receivers; she switched to ONE receiver, and uses the Roku Spectrum app on the other two TV's. The trouble is, the app is awful. The interface is so clunky it's disgusting, she can't access the DVR through it, and recently the signal has become inconsistent (the app will lose a channel's signal, even when the wifi is working perfectly, and that same channel works fine on the cable box). What are our options for setting up some sort of transeiver for the cable/hdmi signal: from the box/TV to one-or-both of the other TV's in the house? I've seen some products like Actiontec's ScreenBeam, which seems viable if it works as advertised, i.e. can reliably transmit through walls/floors/ceilings and doesn't have any sort of audio delay issues (lipsync, ect.); any testimonials on this sub? If there are any remote "wired" solutions that can work through a house's ethernet, I have already set up a functional MoCA network in the house which I could feasibly expand. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 10:21 AM PST I was wondering what the best method for networking in my room would be. Currently we have a router downstairs and I am running an ethernet cable from that router up to my room a floor up. In my room I have a network switch to split that one line into two (Nintendo switch and desktop PC wired connections). I was considering getting a router so that I can get my own, more stable 5ghz connection in my room. Would this work? So I can have the router splitting the 2 wired connections and a more stable wireless connection since it will be in the room with me and no other devices on that wireless connection. I know the network as a whole won't change speed wise and would still be dependent on how many devices are using it and for what they're using it for, but the 5ghz wifi should be more stable in room than connecting from downstairs through several walls, right? Or would it even work right how I am thinking? [link] [comments]  |
| I'm interested in setting up certain type of network.. Posted: 21 Jan 2021 07:25 PM PST Okay. I'm not new to computers, or networking, but when it comes to servers, domains, and other stuff, I'm blind as a bat. What I'm wanting to do is setup what I believe is called a domain network, where all of my Windows computers connect to a server and essentially use the server for it's horsepower, saving stuff, etc, and the clients are nothing more than terminals. You log in on one PC and your background and desktop files are the same on any PC client you login with. I have 6 PC's, three of which are laptops that never leave home. Could I simply use a desktop as a server, no monitor, just tucked away (or KVM switch with my gaming desktop) or would I need to get an actual home server rack? Would I have to buy multiple licenses for all the clients? Buy different versions for the laptops other than the factory Window OS preloaded on them? Do all client versions have to match revisions? Do I need a server edition of Windows for the server, or could I just use Pro? How in the world it's it all setup? Is a standard wireless router (like my Netgear Nighthawk x4) fine for the wireless clients? Would I have to have a separate wireless network for non-client PC's? What additional hardware or software is necessary to buy? Are there too many questions asked here? I'm not even sure I'm writing everything correctly. Any info, or redirect to info would be greatly appreciated. [link] [comments]  |
| Bet Modem and Router for large family home? Posted: 21 Jan 2021 09:40 AM PST Hi. I currently have 1 Gbps service with Xfinity. I'm using their latest router (that I switched to last week) and am having more problems than ever. The router currently drops devices at random. I called Xfinity and they tell me that I have too many devices on the router. (I have roughly 42, half of them being smart home system devices.) The new modem doesn't allow you to separate devices between the 2.4 and 5 Ghz bands so I can't make any changes on how things function currently. I'd love some help figuring out what the best devices/setup would be if I were to purchase my own router and modem? We have a large family and nice sized home (single family, 2300 sq ft., 2 floors plus basement) and we all work from home and always will, so reducing the number of devices really isn't an option. Xfinity swears by their pods, but I don't know if I'm willing to give them more money for a solution that won't necessarily work. Thank you for any help you can provide. Edit:. Best Modem and Router [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 07:17 PM PST This may seem like a very novice question. I currently have a router supplied by Verizon Fios (the newer WIFI 6 router). I also have a velop mesh network. The modem only has one ethernet port that plugs into the Verizon router. If I plugged my Velop node into the Verizon router will it slow down my network. What's the best way to approach this? Maybe setting the velop into bridged mode [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 07:00 PM PST |
| Home network for house remodel Posted: 21 Jan 2021 10:05 AM PST Summary: I'm remodeling my house and realized that I should run conduit, strings, rg6 and cat6 wire while I have my walls open. I plan to run conduit from downstairs to my attic(to connect to my upstairs bedrooms) and to all rooms downstairs which I can get it to as this is a slab on grade house. I also plan to run PoE access points and have wire run to them. Housing switches/modem/router: Is a structured media enclosure in a centrally located downstairs closet a good way to contain this? Wireless node locations: I have a two story house that is 27x32 ft (918 sq ft on each floor). I also have an attached garage that is 27x 32ft. Would 3 wireless access points be ideal? 1 upstairs, 1 downstairs, and 1 in the garage? Should I place them in the center of the house? Which access points and routers should I use? I would like it to show up as one network and pass off devices between APs. I was thinking of the following. Router inside a plastic (leviton) structured media enclosure downstairs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H8ZLKKK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_imm_t1_dlC_I-BcGbP4DJ3V2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Access Points in the garage and upstairs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SBXVSF3/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_fabc_jfCcGbS7GDY7Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Switch in media enclosure that everything connects to and is the only thing connected to the router. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721V1TGV/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_fabc_TgCcGbSVNTZFC?psc=1 [link] [comments]  |
| WiFi 6 Router - Is Now the Time? Posted: 21 Jan 2021 06:16 PM PST So a recent power outage has caused my old Netgear R7000 router to begin rebooting sporadically about 4-5 times throughout the day. So I'm looking for a replacement and as you all know, the router offerings on the market are plentiful. I was thinking of doing a little bit of future proofing and have been looking at WiFi 6 routers - specifically the TP-Link Archer AX6000. I have quite a few wired clients and the 8 ports on this particular router fit the bill nicely. As for wireless, nothing too crazy, some iPhone 11 Pro Maxes, iPhone 6s, and an Xbox (older gen). The price for the Archer AX6000 seems decent too. Is now the time to move to 802.11ax? Any opinions on this router? Edit: I forgot to add that my current Internet package is 1 Gbps D / 40 Mbps U. Thanks for any information you can provide. [link] [comments]  |
| Will a Mesh WiFi system provide stable connection for gaming/browsing? Posted: 21 Jan 2021 06:16 PM PST I want to move the router into my room, but my brother's room connection gets worse when I do. My room is only about 15 feet away from the routers current spot, but it is behind some more walls. He complains that browsing on his phone takes noticeably longer to load and gaming is slightly more laggy. Running an ethernet cable through the wall is out of the question. Will a Wifi mesh system fix this issue? Is there a certain type of mesh system I should be looking for considering he games? I am not looking to cover the entire house, I just want to make sure his connection is relatively the same after moving the router to my room. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 21 Jan 2021 04:42 PM PST Hey there, I just bought a NAS and wanted start using a VPN on the devices I used to access it and on the internet. I see tons of VPN options is some that are various differences in price as well from 3-15 dollars a month. My question is, does it matter what I chose or are they all essentially the same function? Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| VPN on router or VPN on a client Posted: 21 Jan 2021 03:51 AM PST Maybe this was asked before but what do i get by using the VPN on the router vs on a client (server that runs the services i want to access), speed aside. Are there any security benefits? Firewall rules get set on both systems. Routing would maybe a benefit but because of my network setup the server gets routed everywhere. Am i missing something or isn't there any benefit on doing it on the router in my setup? [link] [comments]  |
| Asus RT-AC86U How to Enable DFS in Canada? Posted: 21 Jan 2021 04:14 PM PST I bought this router RT-AC86u on the recommendation that it included DFS channels https://www.duckware.com/tech/wifi-in-the-us.html#routers It also has great hardware and mu-mimo 4x4. But, after updating firmware, trying Asus-Merlin, I can't find any of the DFS channels in the Wireless settings. It's only the non-DFS channels. I live in a townhouse and 5Ghz is really congested with 5 wall-to-wall neighbours. Anyone have any idea? Or, is it simply not possible in Canada to enable it? [link] [comments]  |
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