Home Networking Anybody else annoyed by the move to app-based device configuration? |
- Anybody else annoyed by the move to app-based device configuration?
- Internet working perfectly on wired connection but WiFi keeps dropping or working really slow
- How to Terminate Ethernet Cables
- Need advice to add LTE connection to network
- Electrician wired CAT7 instead of CAT6A
- How do I access my QoS?
- New Home - Configuration Suggestions
- Inaccurate iperf3 speeds
- internet cutting out since changing hardware
- Unmanaged switches - stripping VLAN tags?
- Mobile data through router
- Need some help compiling list for network (US based)
- Finding the right 6A cable for direct burial outside my home.
- MoCA networking help
- Network Blocking Some Apps and Allowing Others
- Beginner noob question — getting wifi in my apartment
- Can just a modem subject to wireless interference?
- Troubleshooting connectivity from modem to coaxial/ethernet wall outlets
- Sudden drop in up speed & error rate
- Cheap Router Without Wifi Radio
- Wifi Router Question
- Asus RT-AC68U showing disconnected from internet, but internet works fine. Please Help!
- In serious need to rack organization help.
- Local Network Hostnames with TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7)?
- Need to upgrade from an r7000. Anything below the ER-4 to consider?
| Anybody else annoyed by the move to app-based device configuration? Posted: 28 Jan 2021 04:45 AM PST Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I really don't appreciate the shift from local web (or even command line!) configuration of devices to the need for an app to configure devices, or even the cloud, god forbid. I don't like the idea of my perfectly serviceable device being rendered useless because the manufacturer decided to drop support for the app, which then stops working because, say, a new iOS version comes out and kills it. That being said, if you have recommendations for brands that still have device hosted configuration management I'm all ears! [link] [comments]  |
| Internet working perfectly on wired connection but WiFi keeps dropping or working really slow Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:00 PM PST So my setup is the following: I have a media convertor from my ISP (Huawei router that doubles as a media convertor) off of which I have connected my own TP-Link Archer C6 which provides the WiFi and my wired internet connection. Here's the issue, no matter which router provides the WiFi, it keeps dropping or running really badly (I sometimes get 0.3Mbps). Whatever I do to the settings of the router, that doesn't help either, I've tried 20MHz, 40MHz, auto, all the channels, MU-MIMO on or off. I am at a loss. I talked to my ISP to switch their media convertor to Bridge mode, thought that might have an effect. Nope, still same issue. I am lost as to what it can be, I've tried everything and I know the internet ain't dropping cuz the wired connection runs perfectly fine with no issues whatsoever and I know that doesn't have an effect on the WiFi either cuz I've unplugged it, switched ports, routers, everything. Anyone have a clue? I'd like to mention the WiFi drops on a smart TV, 2 separate smartphones and a laptop. So it's not related to the device connected to the wifi. [link] [comments]  |
| How to Terminate Ethernet Cables Posted: 28 Jan 2021 02:22 PM PST Chris from Crosstalk Solutions has released a new video: The tools and process that I use to terminate Ethernet cables. This is definitely not my favorite thing in the world to do, but the ability to terminate Ethernet cables is a skill that all network enthusiasts should be very comfortable with. The type of Ethernet cables isn't nearly as important - these concepts work with most types! [link] [comments]  |
| Need advice to add LTE connection to network Posted: 28 Jan 2021 08:24 PM PST I have a LTE modem with one rj 45 port and i also have a wired broadband line with isp router. Only LTE is unlimited net. I want to use the two connections, when gaming low latency wired and anything else lte. Can I use a cheap manged switch to do such a thing or even a new LTE router. I just need a hw recommendation, software and features to look out for. If possible point me to a similar project. Thank you [link] [comments]  |
| Electrician wired CAT7 instead of CAT6A Posted: 28 Jan 2021 01:16 AM PST Hi, I just came to the building site where my home is, and found out that the electrician has laid CAT7 cables in the conduits instead of my requested CAT6A standard. Can I live with it? Will I experience problems with connectivity? Can I use CAT6A keystone plugs with CAT7 wiring? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 07:42 PM PST It says my router, ( Zyxel VMG3927-B50B ) is compatible for QoS. Where do I go to access it? Is there an app/website? [link] [comments]  |
| New Home - Configuration Suggestions Posted: 28 Jan 2021 03:10 PM PST Hi all - hoping this subreddit can provide me some clarity on the best way to configure a new home. We are in the process of moving in and from what I can tell the house is wired in multiple locations using co-ax / co-ax splitters. I will need multiple locations of the house to have hardwire connection due to WFH and one location for co-ax for TV. What is the best way to set-up a new install? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:48 PM PST I'm trying to find out how fast my home Wireless is using iperf3 and my galaxy s21 ultra. Is there something else I need to do to get accurate speeds? [link] [comments]  |
| internet cutting out since changing hardware Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:20 PM PST first off, i have no clue what i'm doing. zero. with that out of the way, i could really use some help: as soon as i tried to save a few bucks and switch out my isp's hardware, i start having major issues. the weird thing is, i'm getting full signal to the router. and if i connect the ethernet directly to the modem it gives me a good connection (although i have to restart the modem.) also have to restart the modem after i connect the router back. and still the internet keeps cutting out when i try to stay on wifi. so it seems to be something between the modem and the router :/ i've looked stuff up about dhcp - but i really have no clue about any of this. Any advice??? thanks! router: Linksys ea6350 modem: motorola mb7621 (24x8 docsis 3.0) [link] [comments]  |
| Unmanaged switches - stripping VLAN tags? Posted: 28 Jan 2021 12:06 PM PST I've currently got a Unifi US-8-60W switch, and am planning on starting to explore VLANs a bit, with an eye towards isolating some of my IoT stuff from the main house network. I've also got a small stack of Raspberry Pi's - enough that I ordered a small TP Link 5 port switch (unmanaged) just for the RPi's to free up some of the ports on the US-8-60W. I read that some unmanaged switches will strip or block the tags necessary for VLAN functionality... which implies that some do not. Is there any way in advance to know whether a given unmanaged switch will cause problems with VLANs? Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 01:31 PM PST Please excuse me if this question was answered earlier. I am looking for a WiFi router that would source its data from mobile hotspots. I have 4 different mobile phones with mobile hotspots enabled, I wanted to boost the speed of connectivity. So instead of my laptop connecting to one hotspot, I will connect to WiFi through router. If one phone hotspot gets disconnected, my connectivity is not impacted. Is there a router that would help me with this setup? PS - I am trying to set this up in a remote area where there is no wired internet connectivity. Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| Need some help compiling list for network (US based) Posted: 28 Jan 2021 01:30 PM PST I plan to have ethernet cable ran in attic for POE cameras. The cameras will be exterior cameras mounted under my eaves. I have no HVAC ductwork in attic, only in crawlspace if that matters. Cable modem, Ubiquiti router & switch are in my office. I will need one ethernet run from my un-managed switch in my living room to my office switch. Also, I need one ethernet run from attic POE switch to my office switch. I am seeking some recommendations for the below items to buy from Monoprice or Amazon.
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| Finding the right 6A cable for direct burial outside my home. Posted: 28 Jan 2021 05:14 PM PST I live in a house with no attic, no basement, and no crawlspace. We have coax cable coming in at one end of the house for ethernet, and intend to use a combination of female ethernet wall-plates with couplers, (if we buy pre-terminated), and a single 6a ethernet cable run outside along the base of our home, partially buried and partially coming up over concrete steps (concealed under the lips of our doors) to connect a WAP at the opposite end of our house. Measuring the run, we'd need roughly 90 feet of cable, want it to be 6A for futureproofing, and since it's going to be buried some form of waterproofing would be good. I've looked into cables that use waterproofing gel, and there are preterminated ones for relatively cheap. Using that, we could plug one end into a coupler face plate in one wall, and run it to the other, cut the excess, and terminate it. My only concern becomes the messiness of the gel, which seems difficult to clean and handle, and then how we would keep in the rest of the gel after termination (heatshrink?). There exists bulk designed for direct burial without gel that seems to fit these needs from like Primus cables and other companies, but we don't need 1000ft or even 500ft of it, even to make other patch cables, and we don't really have the storage to keep too much of it around. I'd be open to maybe up to 300 feet? But even then I have no idea what I'd do with the excess, even if I created enough new ethernet cables to replace every other one in the house. With all those constraints, which cable, terminated or not, would be the best to buy? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 05:13 PM PST If anyone could take the time to answer this that would be much appreciated. I recently installed a POE filter and have just bought an actiontec moCA network booster (802.11 ac), my modem is an arris optimum modem and my router is an optimum d-link. I'm trying to connect the booster at the opposite end of my house through coax but I'm not sure if my router or modem are moCA enabled, would I also need an actiontec moCA adapter next to my router/modem to communicate with the booster or since my modem has a coax in it does it transfer right to the booster? Any help is appreciated thank you [link] [comments]  |
| Network Blocking Some Apps and Allowing Others Posted: 28 Jan 2021 11:01 AM PST Hey guys hopefully I'm just being dumb and this solution is obvious. Anyways I currently have an R7000 router that I installed DD-WRT on. I had everything running great for about 2 days until I tried to install a managed switch (DGS-1100-08V2) into my system for more ethernet availability. Like an idiot, I plugged the switch directly into the ONT and then plugged everything else into the switch as well (2 PC's and R7000). I realize now that that's not how networks work and that I need the R7000 for its DHCP service to assign IP's to my devices etc etc. Anyway, I managed to get into the management software for the switch and set its IP from static to DHCP so I could see it from the R7000 dashboard. This however lead to even more problems... Internet connectivity went out the window, obviously, so I switched the whole physical network config back to default. At this point I had the ONT connected to the R7000 via the internet port and another cable connecting to the switch. From the switch I ran to two PC's and a TV. Again another issue came up with connectivity so I said fuck it, and took the switch out of the network and wired everything directly to the R7000. You would think that would resolve the issues but it didn't. I now have internet connectivity except for some apps. From what I can tell the following are affected. - Origin When I first boot up my PC Origin connects fine and dandy. However if I quit origin and relaunch it, it'll tell me I'm offline. The client wont reconnect after tons of tries. - Spotify This acts slightly differently. I can play music still but cannot interact with the rest of the client as everything is shown as offline. I can see that I am logged in though and can log out. The problem is once I log out I cant log back in. -All Windows Store & Office Services I consistently get the error code: 0x800704cf. As far as I can tell that just means no connection. This occurs on every Microsoft product, word, OneNote and even Windows Update cannot connect. A few more details: I had Privoxy enabled on the R7000 but it was interfering with the managed switch's interface and blocking it. I then disabled privoxy. Everything on the network is being effected by this including my laptop connected to the wireless. Two PC's connected via ethernet and laptop connected to WiFi are experiencing same exact issues. I have flashed the R7000 back to stock DD-WRT , but still have the connection problems. I've tried the usual networking reset on my PC (flushed then renewed DNS, released IP etc). Does anyone have any other ideas? Sureley this is router based but I've since reset every single thing to no avail. My next step is to reboot the ONT and see if that works. Any help is appreciated! EDIT: Included more details EDIT 2: turns out it was privoxy the whole time. Apparently disabling it does not remove some settings that it has applied. Re-enabling it solved my connectivity problems! [link] [comments]  |
| Beginner noob question — getting wifi in my apartment Posted: 28 Jan 2021 04:58 PM PST Hi all, Forgive me if this is unclear. I know literally nothing about home networking things, as can probably be illustrated by the fact that I've been using an off the shelf router from the early 2010s this whole time and chosen to ignore it until now. Hopefully this provides the right info. Basically, we have been hobbling by on an old router (Linksys E1000) connected to a typical Spectrum cable modem. Recently (okay, like the last 6 months but too lazy to fix until now) I had been noticing random disconnecting and lag when playing World of Warcraft, but otherwise everything else was fine. Originally thought it was because of using Windows 7 (yes, I have a habit for retro tech) but upgrading to Windows 10 did not solve the problem. Husband looked into it, and discovered that it's probably because the router doesn't support IPv6, so looking to upgrade. That said, I'm getting overwhelmed by the amount of choices available. Is there any way to narrow this down, and especially keep the budget down? Some other information: We're talking about ~600 square foot 2BR apartment with thin walls, so it really doesn't need to reach far. The only connected would be two computers (desktop PC and a MacBook), two iPhones, two iPads, and a switch lite, generally not all at the same time. It is atypical for anything more taxing than one person watching Netflix while the other person is playing online games. Also, I live in Hawai'i. We have the disadvantage of 3000 miles of ocean between us and everyone else, so I am not expecting high speeds, just something that doesn't repeatedly disconnect. Finally, currently the computer in question has the following network adapter: ASUS Wi-Fi PCI express adapter PCE-AC56 Willing to upgrade that too if we need to, but ideally would like to minimize cost where feasible. I've done some basic Googling on routers but just not sure where we need wi-fi 5 or wi-fi 6, how to figure out compatibility with the wireless card, and things that aren't designed for a huge ass house (small footprint would be ideal.) At the same tome, don't want to buy obsolete tech that will need to be replaced again in a few years. So trying to find the balance between budget and overkill. Help an idiot out? Thanks y'all! [link] [comments]  |
| Can just a modem subject to wireless interference? Posted: 28 Jan 2021 04:55 PM PST I have my modem/router right next to my TV and wireless sound bar. I'm thinking about turning off the wireless radio capability and wiring it to a different router further away to see if that helps with an issue that I think may be caused by interference. If I leave the modem where it is, is wireless interference something that can impact it at all? [link] [comments]  |
| Troubleshooting connectivity from modem to coaxial/ethernet wall outlets Posted: 28 Jan 2021 04:46 PM PST Hi everyone, My problem is as follows : - My girlfriend and I just moved into a new place with wall outlets, which I thought was great for the additional bandwidth for our work laptops, chromecast, NAS, etc... - We purchased our internet with Verizon Fios - Upon installing it, the router (model G3100) works if I connect it directly out of the Verizon modem (model ONT Optical Network Terminal 1-211M-L) with both the coaxial & IP connection, which means Verizon enabled out internet connection and allows me to get wifi. But doing so takes away connectivity from the wall outlets - If I plug the router to any of the wall outlets (after putting back the connectivity out of the modem), it doesn't work anywhere else. - If I keep the router straight out of the modem, I cannot get coaxial connection from the coaxial wall outlet for my Fios TV (since I'm basically plugging the only port available for the GW) - There is section of the wall with telco equipment, and the connectivity issue comes from only a single port of a thing named SAM-D8 (apparently a CAT5e patch panel, like this one) being plugged to the gateway only with one cable into port 7. My building is telling Verizon is in charge of this, and vice versa, with no one taking ownership of the problem. While I'm waiting for an answer, I was hoping to make some progress by myself. It seems that on the SAM-D8 there are 6 out of 8 sections being wired to what I assume are the wall outlets. Oh and obviously I need to do the same thing for the coaxial connection (but let's start with the IP stuff first, baby steps ...) My question is as follows :
Is there a way to do any of this without getting any support from any telco company involved ? Thanks. EDIT : my setup feels very similar to the one on this Stackexchange thread if you'd like to see more pictures https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/18751/how-to-use-network-patch-panel-in-new-house [link] [comments]  |
| Sudden drop in up speed & error rate Posted: 28 Jan 2021 04:45 PM PST I suddenly had a drop in the up speed from 10 to 0.4 Mbps few days ago. The error rate has also gone up, to the point where any TCP uploads, larger half a megabyte are failing. The modem has been replaced. The modem has been tried from another outlet, with a different coax. Same result. ISP reports instability in signal in the last week. Neighbors are not reporting any issues. My suspicion is that the problem lays between the street and my house. Is it possible to still have a healthy down at 200 Mbps (what I'm paying for), and only have the up link degrade? ISP is sending a technician in 2 days, but I don't think there is anything else that I can try myself in the meantime. Is that a fair assessment? [link] [comments]  |
| Cheap Router Without Wifi Radio Posted: 28 Jan 2021 04:16 PM PST I am looking to fill a few holes in my wifi and I would like to do it by adding an access point right in the middle of the house. Right now I just have the provided At&t router / modem but I want to passthrough to an aftermarket router. Because of this, I am in the market for a very basic router. It does not need to be smart in any way, it does not even need to have any wifi radios because I am planning on using an external access point. I guess I am looking for something like the Edge router from ubiquiti except cheaper. If anyone has any ideas for a good solution, I would love to know. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 09:34 AM PST I am upgrading my home internet to a 300mb connection by optic fiber technology and the company only provides me the modem and NOT the router. So, in order to install a WIFI on my home, I will need a router compatible with that technology and speed. I don´t live in an apartment and, even though my house is big it doesn´t have a first floor. So, taking into account my budget is $50...What would you recommend? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Asus RT-AC68U showing disconnected from internet, but internet works fine. Please Help! Posted: 28 Jan 2021 03:29 PM PST I have an Asus RT-AC68U. I was running into a double NAT issue because I was receiving a private IP. I was able to speak with our internet provider to get it to a public IP. Now I no longer have a double NAT issue, but on my router it shows that I'm disconnected from the internet. The internet is working fine... but showing that I'm disconnected. The issue is that I'm not able to set up a VPN on my router because the router doesn't think it's connected to the internet. Does anyone know what might be causing this issue and how I might be able to fix it? [link] [comments]  |
| In serious need to rack organization help. Posted: 28 Jan 2021 03:20 PM PST Hey guys. I love working on my network and stuff but physical neatness and organization has never been a strong point. I picked up a big 42 or 48u rack for 60 bucks from a business that didn't want it anymore a few months ago. I'll slowly be filling it out. Don't ask why the 2u server is up top please... Its too embarrassing, I just obviously don't know what I'm doing. So far my equipment is: * 2u dl380 gen 7 * Brocade 6610 switch * 1u super micro loaded with pfsense * 1u pdu in the back * Netgear nighthawk being used as wap Will be getting a ups soon and a 2u lockable drawer. The wiring will be 1 ethernet in from wall (should I always go to switch first or should that go directly to pfsense)? 2 10gbps dacs from the supermicro to the switch and then 2 from the switch to the dl380. 4 ethernet from switch to the nighthawk. Currently I also have 2 full length shelves, and 1 half shelf at my disposal. I've come to realize how dumb it was to put the 2u up top and want to drop it down. Should I wait to put ups under it since I don't see how I could install anything under it if it's that low? Or should I just drop the 2u all the way to the bottom and put the ups higher when I get it? How do I get these cables better organized? Its messy having them go from front of rack for the switch to the back of the rack for the servers. Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| Local Network Hostnames with TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7)? Posted: 28 Jan 2021 03:13 PM PST I recently got a TP_Link AC1750 and for most things it's a vast improvement on the ISP provided Actiontec router I was using. However I can't find a way to get it to provide name-service on my local network. That is, if my laptop with a name "laptop1" connects to the network, I can't ping or connect to it by it's name, but instead have to figure out its ip address and connect that way. It won't even work with permanent lease DHCP addresses that I use for hard-wired machines (like my raspberry pi media server, printer, etc.). Does anyone know if local name-service can be turned on with this model? In nearly 20 years of home-networking, I've never had a router that didn't provide this. If it makes a difference, most of my machines are linux based. I know I can go add the machines to my And if this can't be fixed, what router do you recommend with similar price and performance? [link] [comments]  |
| Need to upgrade from an r7000. Anything below the ER-4 to consider? Posted: 28 Jan 2021 02:56 PM PST So my Nighthawk has been trash, and I've been unable to do a factory reset at all to apply custom firmware. I just want to move on from it. Asked the folks over at the Ubiquiti sub since I've heard good things from them, but the EdgeRouter-4 is above what I want to purchase. What can I consider below that (around $100 USD), that's still capable? [link] [comments]  |
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