Home Networking Multigigabit internet access in France, 2Gbps, with interoperability. |
- Multigigabit internet access in France, 2Gbps, with interoperability.
- Internet speed capped on one PC only. Solved: VGA adapter interferes with WiFi
- Wiring home with CAT6
- Think I need to replace the network hardware at my parents house, but need some advice...
- All in one network security device?
- Thank you to this sub. I now have ethernet lines running to my basement and my attic. Question: What do I do with the cables in my attic? Will set up a Ubiquiti AP.
- Is it possible to create a dNS entry on my home router?
- Intermittent home internet blackout, troubleshooting last 4 weeks, no luck
- WiFi randomly working slow on my PC.
- Asus Ai Mesh System, Can Node be connected to Node?
- Is Aquantia dead? (Also 10GB NIC Driver help)
- Can't get my PC onto the wireless network & feel like an idiot
- How do I get a Comcast connection
- Question: can a layer 3 switch generate an ARP request?
- Netgear Nighthawk r8000 problems.
- If you had the right firmware & settings could you dial into an eMTA device?
- Slow File Sharing over WiFi
- Second router (AP mode) constantly saying “Ethernet doesn’t have a valid IP configuration”
- Home Ethernet help!
- ISP Gateway + Misc Router APs, Please help me crack this puzzle?
- Which router has the best Parental Controls?
- ASUS ZenWiFi AX XT8 - LAN Disconnects
- Possible reasons why phone is being throttled
- Squid Forward Proxy Bypass List?
- WRT3200ACM MU-MIMO on open-source firmware?
| Multigigabit internet access in France, 2Gbps, with interoperability. Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:15 AM PST Hi all, I want to share the following thread, in the very place to share about Fiber To The Home interoperability in France. In France, we have an internet provider that disrupted the market. We use to have non quota internet since DSL times. The "Free" internet company started to sell multigigabit internet access, FTTH with EPON technology, and other providers had to follow the trail. Then, Orange, SFR, Bouygues, started do sell allmost multigig internet access. They sell and quot you 2Gbps access, but only provide 1Gbps routers... So, we started the research to get the bandwidth we paid for. At this moment, we use some Lantiq based G-010S-A synchronized ISP side, at legitimate speed, and linked to the SFP+ slot at HSGMII speed, so 2.5Gbps. We reached 2.3Gbps/650Mbps. A lot of information about which stick to use is available there. The thread on https://lafibre.info Feel free to come and share. Google Translate is your friend. Congratulations go to upnatom, on this post, who developed all the technology. [link] [comments]  |
| Internet speed capped on one PC only. Solved: VGA adapter interferes with WiFi Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:46 PM PST TL;DR VGA adapter interferes with WiFi. For the last couple of weeks trying to work out why one PC is capped to around 5Mbps whilst the others are not. After trying a lot of things I wondered about the VGA adapter that I installed about a month ago (from PC to monitor - because I was using HDMI for Xbox and didn't want to keep swapping the cable depending on whether I was using PC or Xbox). I did a quick internet search and lo and behold, it seems people have had issues with VGA and WiFi interference. I disconnected the VGA (with adapter) cable and used HDMI and internet speed was back up to normal. Just posting this in case it may help others. P.S. as you know there are many different issues that can affect WiFi speeds, so just add this to the list to try out (if you are using VGA). [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:41 PM PST I'm planning on taking advantage of the cool winter/spring weather to wire my house with a bunch of Ethernet ports. I've made my fair share of patch cables but have never done anything with in-wall stuff and keystone jacks. I've been looking around on amazon for what I think I'll need and hoping to get some opinions on whether I'm missing anything or things to look out for. What I already have
What I will need (I think)
Links are to the items I've added to my cart and plan to buy in the next week or so. Suggestions/Substitutions welcome. The Plan The rack will go in the master bedroom just below the wire shelf. This seems like the best place to keep it out of the way/sight while still being easily accessible. I plan to build a decorative box around it using some wood and metal mesh to help make it less visible an make sure it has some buffer space around it so clothes don't end up right next to it. Most rooms currently have a coax run, and a few have phone line runs as well. My plan is to make 3 Ethernet runs to each coax location resulting in a 3xCAT6 and 1xRG6 plate. Somewhere on the opposite corner of the room I plan on adding an additional 2 runs. That should make a CAT6 outlet available near by regardless of future furniture arrangements. If the room has a phone line I plan to replace it with 2xCAT6 also. In the living room area there are two different coax locations for tv placement options. Adding a 3xCAT6 to each of those locations should suffice I think. A media center location like that might needs lots of connections, would it be worth while to run more drops or just use a local switch? I don't have any foreseeable plans to install any cameras or other devices that might need a run, but I thought I might run a drop to each corner of the attic just in case. Likewise I have no foreseeable use for drops in the attached garage, but I may run some there anyway. There is a coax/phone outlet in there currently so I will likely put a 3xCAT6 run to there at least. If I've done my math right that should put me at about 28 ports used on the patch panel. I could probably knock it down to fit in a 24-port panel, but I figured it was probably best to just go for a 48-port panel and ensure there's lots of space available for the future. Regarding the switch, would it be worth getting a managed switch for VLAN support, or is a cheaper unmanaged witch fine? I'm not real familiar with how VLANs work, but if I understand right it might be a way to segment things like a guest wifi network and IoT devices away from my PCs. I could also put the switch off until later as I currently have two cheap gigabit switches (5-port and 8-port) that I could make due with, but it'd be a little messier than have a single large-capacity switch. I think that covers everything. Is there anything I am missing or overlooking? Are there any good options for 2.5Gig networking while still keeping the cost reasonable? 1Gig is all I need for now, only one of my PCs has a 2.5Gig network port but those seem to be more common these day so I might have multiple after my next upgrade in a few years. [link] [comments]  |
| Think I need to replace the network hardware at my parents house, but need some advice... Posted: 30 Dec 2020 03:39 PM PST I've finally had a chance to see what my parents network is doing firsthand. I don't even know where to begin to troubleshoot what is going on with it, and I don't really think it's worth the effort doing so. The hardware is a mishmash of items bought 5-7 years ago, and it's becoming increasingly difficult to support as time passes. Right now they have two R7000s (Router + AP), and a TP-Link Archer C7 (AP running OpenWRT). One of the R7000s is in the basement serving as the router because the house was setup to have all of it's cable/phone/etc to come out of a quasi network closet when it was added onto about 18 years ago. So the one in the basement isn't doing a whole lot signal wise. Both of the R7000s don't have open source firmware alternatives worth using, and the official ones seem to have issues with performance or ecosystems (like google devices) in the newer versions. So you give up security patches for speed and usability or the other way around. Plus the house has just picked up more devices than anyone probably ever thought it would. So it's very difficult to tell if there's an issue with one of the devices themselves given the mixture of manufacturers and rudimentary interfaces. Plus trying to troubleshoot remotely or in a short period of time with little information. I don't mind spending a bit on this if it makes things easier in the future and makes sense in an upgradeability aspect, but as with most things tech especially in the wireless area...I am thinking going minimal as possible is probably the smarter bet since the new faster thing will come out and nullify the more robust investment potentials. So I'd like to get at least: Coverage matching what is there now, but stabilize it. Improve the ability to troubleshoot and support it. Improve the security of it. Seems like any newer buy would achieve most of these points. So then I'd like to tack on, low cost and easy to add wireless expansion if needed. Then maybe add some considerations in for the future if it might change recommendations. I have looked at Ubiquiti Dream Machine and Dream Machine Pro. They both look like nice easy to use setups. The non-Pro looks nice because of what it packs in for the price, but I don't like the idea of having the router being a wireless signal and being in probably the worst place possible because that's where the modem is. But re-arranging the setup to fix that means feeding WAN port and one of the LAN ports through the patch panel to some place else in the house to relocate the router. Not sure if that would cause latency or other issues, and if it comes to power cycling stuff being needed..that's going to make it difficult to explain what to do. The UDM Pro alleviates that, but the cost of it factors in possible camera usage and other things being possibly needed. Seems like overkill. I am not saying cameras are totally ruled out, but Ubiquiti's camera solution just seems very expensive and vendor locked and not sure it's the "right" thing to buy into without KNOWING you want those cameras at this point. Then I've seen people suggest building your own pfsense router and having access points to get the wireless signal. I don't know how much of a maintenance PITA that would be. I don't mind spending time on it to figure it out to begin with, but I don't want to fiddle with these things every week. Eventually I just want to check on them once every month or two unless there's an issue, otherwise I just want them to work and collect information for the next time I check on them. A few things that might matter... The house is wired for Cat5e, some of the runs are pretty long due to the nature of how the house was added on to. So it runs along the basement, then runs the full height of the house and across the attic and down again. It should be below the maximum 300ish feet by a good margin, in all of these cases. But I do admit I get paranoid about those lines having problems because I never want to have to replace them...that wasn't fun installing them. They will likely have the ability to get gigabit internet service in the next 6 months and I am going to encourage them to do so, should end up being about the same price they have for at least double maybe triple the speed since theirs is probably over partitioned. I expect to have to put as many wireless access points back in as I take out, so for each existing device (3), I will be putting in an access point or AP + Router depending on what ends up being decided. But I am thinking that "excellent" coverage will probably end up needing 4 or 5. The house wasn't wired with installed access points in mind, so they won't be placed on the ceilings, there will be wall jacks...and they are mostly on the outside walls of the house and then right in the center. So thinking I'll need one on the second floor center, basement center, then both far walls. Making it 4. But it has one odd ball room that sticks out plus some porch and deck areas. So figured there might be some need to shift things around to fix the coverage where needed and require a fifth. But I'd like to start with 3 and see if it fixes the issues going on now. The issues now are best described as: Buffering on some devices, drop outs on some devices, google devices ESPECIALLY behaving oddly...chromecasts in particular. I can put a roku and a chromecast on the same TV in the same spot on the same wifi, and the movie will play fine on one and then not on the other. Take that same device and go to another tv and it's fine. Factory reset the device, then it's fine...for a couple days. Phones randomly dropping wifi. Then having to restart routers, which historically is a sign of something going wrong in the hardware...but I think in the R7000s their newer firmware is just slow and kinda garbage since there's so many people still recommending going back to old versions. Which I would entertain if I could put something else in there to route traffic and is being kept up to date on security patches. So my gut is in general is telling me to get a POE switch of 8-16 ports. Buy some access points that will mount to a wall plate/jack and power off the POE line. That the wired network and the wireless network should be kept as separate as possible so the wireless hardware could be pulled and replaced at any time if needed. Which means the router shouldn't serve any purpose for the wireless access. Also that the smart/iot devices should be segregated from other devices on the network, seems like most people suggest vlan, though I can't say I am familiar with it and I am not sure what that would require to accomplish. Not sure if there are recommendations on other good rules of thumb on what else to break up for performance/security. Like putting your media consumption stuff in another group so you can keep them from hogging up all the bandwidth or whatever. Also guessing some intrusion detection wouldn't hurt since that seems to be the new thing a lot of companies have going, seeing the attacks in real time going in or out to see if something inside the network is infected. So....I wrote a small book, but hoping someone takes the time to read it and has some recommendations/comments/insights. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| All in one network security device? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:22 PM PST Hi everyone, I finally have my own non-shared flat and have unfettered access to my router etc. I am very busy at work so I currently don't have time to work on a project like piHole or pfSense on an NUC (not even 100% sure how that works). ANYWAY, Avast recently sent me an ad for an all in one security box that gets plugged into the router and provides a bunch of features. However, I know Avast has a terrible reputation and I don't trust it. Is there a similar commercial plug and play solution I can use to secure my network? Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 12:21 PM PST Thanks to the great advice here I ran ethernet cables to my basement and to my attic. On my main level, my router has a line to an unmanaged switch that goes to these cables, my computer, etc... I ran two lines to my attic and plan to install the Ubiiquiti AP on my ceiling using one of these lines. I guess in the excitement of getting all of this done, I did not think of what to actually do with the lines in the attic. My question is what to do with the lines in the attic. I will put keystones on both lines, but do I install an outlet up there to plug ethernet cables in? Thank you [link] [comments]  |
| Is it possible to create a dNS entry on my home router? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 12:52 PM PST I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, sorry if it isn't. I am creating a home automation program and I have a linux server where I am going to host it. What I want to do is have it so instead of typing the ip address and port in the browser, I want to see if its possible to create a DNS entry on my router so I can just type 'myapp.local' or something like that. Does anyone know if this is possible with my Verizon router or am I thinking about this problem wrong? [link] [comments]  |
| Intermittent home internet blackout, troubleshooting last 4 weeks, no luck Posted: 30 Dec 2020 07:29 PM PST I live in Markham, Ontario, Canada. We have 3 modems in our home. We set up one modem, and the basement tenants set up the two other modems. All three modems connect to different "ISPs"; CarryTel (ours), Cik Telecom (tenant), and TekSavvy (tenant). These three "ISPs" are just fronts to Rogers, which runs the line. The house has a box outside that connects the neighborhood wire to a single coaxial cable that runs into the house's switchboard. The single coaxial cable is connected to a 3-way coaxial splitter at the switchboard, which connects to the 3 modems in the house. The house was built in the 90s. We have had this setup for 3-4 months, and things were fine. This all changed 4 weeks ago when the internet would sporadically die for all of us (our modem upstream light would blink). We have determined that it's not a widespread issue and its only happening to our home. We did not identify any local event that may have caused this. The blackouts would happen most often between ~11 am and ~5 pm on workdays. But lately, we have noticed it happening outside that time interval (7 pm, 9 pm, 3 am). We have had numerous Rogers technicians visit our home since the blackouts started happening. One technician said our coaxial splitter is faulty, so we got that switched, but the problem persists. The next technician said one of the coaxial cables from the 3-way splitter to the tenant's modem is faulty, and that is disrupting the internet for all of us, so we removed that cable and have the tenants share a single modem, the problem remained. Our existing Hitron CDA3-35 modem was replaced with a new one by the ISP, no luck. Another technician changed the coaxial cable running from the outside box to right before it enters the house (the technician refused to change the entire coaxial cable running from the outside box to the switchboard because wire within the house is outside their purview and we would have to call an electrician to change the remaining portion of the cable). We thought this solved the problem as we had no issue for the next several days, perhaps because it was Christmas week and things died down. At the start of this week, the problem re-emerged on Monday at 10.30 am. On a phone-call with CarryTel, they suggested removing the coaxial splitter altogether and connect the coaxial cable to a single modem. So now the entire house is powered by a single modem/router/wifi. Today was our first full day with this setup. We still had blackouts, but it was much less frequent, and it comes back in about 3-5 minutes. This is still not acceptable. The coaxial cables to the tenants' modems are no longer connected, but their bill subscriptions are still active. What could the problem be?
I am running out of reasons why our home internet is experiencing sporadic blackouts. I'm thinking of signing up for fiber optics just so some changes to the outside wires would have to be made, which hopefully solves our problem. EDIT: Here's the error messages I get when I connect to the modem during a blackout. https://ibb.co/pvW8NxX. [link] [comments]  |
| WiFi randomly working slow on my PC. Posted: 30 Dec 2020 07:27 PM PST Today I noticed that my connection has been much worse than normal on my computer. In gaming, I'd get random lag spikes and such. I did a speedtest on my phone and computer. Normally, I'd expect my computer to get faster speeds than my phone, but this was not the case today. My pc can't seem to break 30 mbps, often testing as low as 10. Normally, I'd expect ~100mbps on this pc. Meanwhile, my phone is doing a normal 50mbps or so. My motherboard is an MSI Bazooka Max WiFi and my WiFi system is an older model of the linksys mesh system. What could be happening? [link] [comments]  |
| Asus Ai Mesh System, Can Node be connected to Node? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 07:21 PM PST Hi All, I setup a ASUS wifi mesh system and I am wondering if I can set it up so that a Node connects to another node? As you can see in the picture I am getting a yellow line... Wondering if this can be done? I would post a picture but it is not allowing me to do so. [link] [comments]  |
| Is Aquantia dead? (Also 10GB NIC Driver help) Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:55 PM PST I have been having an issue with my Aquantia 10GB NIC so I tried to go to their website but it no longer exists. All product availability on amazon appears to be gone as well. Did they go out of business and does anyone happen to know where I can still get their drivers? [link] [comments]  |
| Can't get my PC onto the wireless network & feel like an idiot Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:54 PM PST Hi folks, new to this sub and appreciate any help. I feel like wireless tech has blown past me, or maybe my hardware... Here's the challenge: I've got a ~4yo PC rig that didn't come with a wireless adapter. I've used an external bridge (Trendnet TEW-640mb) that kept losing its connection and may have have finally died (can no longer connect to it via the designated IP address). I bought an internal PCI-E wireless adapter (ASUS PCE-AC55BT) that turned out to be ancient and no longer supported by Windows. (It also precipitated a near-death experience with my BIOS, but that's another story). Today I bought a Netgear WAC104. After reading through the manual, it appears it can work as a repeater (I cannot decipher the instructions to do this, and it doesn't sound like what I want) or as a WIRED bridge, which isn't what I want (what is the purpose of an access point that needs to be wired?). I'm at the point where I'm considering buying 50 feet of Cat5 cable and drilling holes in the floor, except I know I'll screw that up too. tl;dr Have a PC with no wireless capability and cannot figure out what product to buy or how to configure what I already have to get it into my home network. Help? [link] [comments]  |
| How do I get a Comcast connection Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:30 PM PST Sorry I just moved here a few days back, and I need to get an xfinity wifi connection. Do I have to call the company or can I just set it up myself? [link] [comments]  |
| Question: can a layer 3 switch generate an ARP request? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 01:38 AM PST Noob question here, If a frame arrives on a layer 3 switch and the destination MAC address is not in the switching table what does the switch do? [link] [comments]  |
| Netgear Nighthawk r8000 problems. Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:10 PM PST Hello guys. Ihave had this router in almost a year and it is annoying. Sometimes the connection just skips a second and then connects again. I don't feel it while watching a movie or something, but when i play a game, it will suddenly kick me out and back in. I know it's the wifi coonection. I'm paying for 100/100 and i'm getting that sometime, but sometimes under it. It is placed in a bedroom and when I sit in the living room, the connection is so bad. It is like 5-10 meters with one door between it. Shouldn't it be able to handle that? Thank you guys! [link] [comments]  |
| If you had the right firmware & settings could you dial into an eMTA device? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:04 PM PST eMTA devices can enable you to place calls through them including calls from your modem to another modem so why couldn't the eMTA act as the modem? Possible applications: -Telneting into a network over dialup -Serving as a PPP ISP for devices like Dreamcasts & retro computers [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:03 PM PST Hello :) I have a problem with sharing files over WiFi. I have a Technicolor MediaAccess DGA4131FWB router provided by my ISP, a desktop PC with a TP-Link TL-WDN4800 WiFi card using the 802.11n protocol at 5GHz with a speed of 300Mbps and a laptop PC with a WiFi card with 802.11ac protocol at 5GHz with a speed of 866Mbps, both with Windows 10 and Linux Ubuntu in dual boot. I did several file sharing tests using a 1GB test file:
I don't understand why it gets bad results using WiFi. I could understand a slight decrease, but for such a substantial difference there must be something wrong. Moreover, if I perform a internet speedtest (to give an idea of the quality of WiFi), there are no big differences (<1Mbps) between the ethernet connection and WiFi. I looked for different possible solutions but they are all based on the ethernet connection (like disable the Large Sendoff Payload and other options) the and not on the WiFi connection. What else could I try? [link] [comments]  |
| Second router (AP mode) constantly saying “Ethernet doesn’t have a valid IP configuration” Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:02 PM PST Hi. I just want to play VR in peace using my new secondary router in access point mode, but I keep encountering problems, and this is the fourth time I've factory reset my secondary router. Long story short, I bought a cheap second router and use it in access point mode, exclusively to connect my Oculus Quest 2 wireless VR headset to, on the 5 GHz band, for better latency when playing, since I do not have Ethernet—only Wi-Fi—in my apartment, as the main router, and the modem, is upstairs where my landlord lives. The second router has no Internet connection, which is fine; it's not meant to have one. It was working fine, but then suddenly stopped working and said "Unidentified network." This has happened many times. Troubleshooting says "Ethernet" doesn't have a valid IP configuration. Another thing: after configuring it to be static IP with DCHP server disabled, I no longer could access my router's configuration page using the default gateway address, although the network still worked fine—until now, that is, as it suddenly stopped working, saying "Unidentified network," "doesn't have a valid IP configuration," and all that jazz. I have two options for the AP: use DHCP server & smart IP (dynamic IP address) or use static IP. If I use DHCP, my Internet slows down a lot as I already have a DHCP server in this network, so two of them makes my Internet connection super slow. Static IP, though, should work fine, and it did for a while, until it suddenly stopped working for seemingly no reason. I've tried changing from automatic to the manual IP address in the adapter options. I've tried disabling and unplugging and power cycling so many times but to no avail. This is really frustrating for me, so if anyone could help, that would be much appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:56 PM PST So I recently bought a house and there are Ethernet ports around the house. After looking into why they aren't working, I seem to have an issue with my central point. Wish I could post pics here but I have a OnQ switch where all 6 ports seem to be fully wired but the "line in" one is empty. I also have a home security system that might be through this? How can I tell which cable to connect to the line in? Trying to avoid a technician charge for something that I feel like I can do [link] [comments]  |
| ISP Gateway + Misc Router APs, Please help me crack this puzzle? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:56 PM PST Friends, I'm trying to test a theory of adding a Raspberry Pi-Hole to my current home network for ad-blocking before actually buying it. I'm one of those unfortunate consumers that have AT&T Fiber with the bgw210 gateway that doesn't allow for DNS configuration. I'm trying to use a solution where I'm trying to use a router of my own to be the DHCP server where I have some ad blocking DNS set up, however, I'm running into issues. The idea behind this thought is, before I buy a Raspberry-Pi and set up Pi-Hole, I want to see if my AT&T Gateway will even allow the pass through to Pi-Hole to be the DNS, DHCP server. Here's my set up and problem: My current set up: Internet Gateway is AT&T BGW210. It's set up as the DHCP server. That gateway is wired into an unmanaged Netgear switch that is providing me with the adequate Ethernet ports to feed various wired parts of the house. The other 3 ports on the AT&T Gateway ALSO are feeding some wired parts of the house. Now what I have done is gotten a bunch of routers (Verizon, Netgear, Linksys, Ubee etc) and have them connected as wired APs throughout the house. Each one of these routers have their DHCP servers off so they're really acting like long range switches and access points. As a final step, I have renamed the SSIDs of all of these routers to be the same. So essentially I have achieved very good roaming ability in my 4K+ Sq ft home, with devices even connecting from outdoors... Cameras, sprinklers etc... With this set up, I believe all routers (APs) allow connections throughout the house, but the IPs assigned through these routers seem to be all coming from my AT&T Gateway router on a 192.168.1.X subnet range. I can further use this set up to log into most of my routers, no matter which AP I'm using. Exceptions being my TP-Link and Linksys, not why that is. I think Linksys just doesn't allow for a portal without a DHCP and TP-Link doesn't let me hit the portal page, unless I'm in fact connected to it. Other routers are accessible when I'm connected to TP-Link. Now I tried to do the following to prepare myself for possible Pi-Hole usage: I set up the Passthrough feature on my AT&T Gateway router as my Netgear Nighthawk router and turned on DHCP on my Netgear Nighthawk router which is one of the APs of the AT&T network. I was able to set the DNS entries for this router to be an Ad-blocking one. Rebooted and sure enough the devices connecting to this router were blocking some ads. Note: AT&T Gateway was still ENABLED as a DHCP server. Problem started two folds: When I roamed to other APs, as-blocking stopped. I was also unable to access the Netgear admin page. Observation: Devices connecting to this router now had a different subnet, 1.0.0.x When I turned off the DHCP server on AT&T Gateway to remove 2 DHCP servers on the network, my APs stopped giving IPs to the devices UNLESS I was close enough to the Netgear router that had the DHCP server and DNS set up. This is baffling me because I'm not sure why the Netgear router is not doing what the AT&T router was doing for all APs? And why are the ads being blocked only when I'm on the Netgear router? Even though the AT&T Gateway is passing through to the Netgear router? Can you help me understand and solve what I'm doing wrong? Appreciate your help! [link] [comments]  |
| Which router has the best Parental Controls? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 11:38 AM PST I have an RT-AC68U router and an 8 year old. I noticed the router has parental controls and is incredibly easy to setup. So when it kicks in, it works. Daughter cant access internet, but can access internal stuff like the HDHomerun Prime, Private Minecraft Server and the file share. However the the Asus router never actually restores access when its supposed to. Wake up in the morning, her tablet and PC has no access to the internet. I have to log back into the router and turn the parental controls off. Been dealing with this for maybe a year and I give up. Which router has the best Parental Controls that actually work? [link] [comments]  |
| ASUS ZenWiFi AX XT8 - LAN Disconnects Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:28 PM PST TL;DR LAN ports suddenly not maintaining connections. HW or SW issue. Two node mesh network setup about 40 days ago. Main AX8 unit connects to cable modem, 3 nodes and 1 10/100/1000 switch. Switch connects to multiple nodes. Remote AX8 device connects over Ethernet, through switch. Main unit broadcasts combined SSID network. 2.4ghz devices are assign by MAC address filtering to 2.4 network. All worked well since initial install. Stable, reliable. No issues. No network changes at all in last 30 days. No new devices. Firmware updated to latest on both AX8 devices during initial setup. Both on same release (GA -1]. Out of blue today, all devices on LAN ports lose connections. WAN and wifi works no issue. Just 4 LAN ports die. Soft reboot of main AX8 has no effect. Power off reset allows devices to reconnect and appear in LAN device list, get DHCP address and access internet. All good. Within 30s to 2m all lose connections. Repeat several times, incorporate cable modem resets and switch resets, always same result. Couple hours on phone with ASUS of no use, except CFG and logs sent in, waiting to get feedback. Update FW on both units to GA, no effect. Looking like HW fail. Decide to bring remote near the main, move the 4 LAN wires to the remote node. Same problem. LAN devices connect briefly and then drop. So now suspecting SW issue. Are these units pulling down updates on their own? My settings do not allow auto updates. I've not done a factory reset yet. My return window closes in 3 weeks and I'm concerned that if a factory reset appears to resolve issue, and later return, I'm stuck. I'd rather know if this is familiar to anyone, a known issue (online search shows little) or if I should just bail, take refund and pay more $ and head to Orbi. Ideas? [link] [comments]  |
| Possible reasons why phone is being throttled Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:20 PM PST I can't seem to narrow down what's causing my iPhone 12 Pro Max to get throttled down to 30mbps on a 50mbps down DSL connection. That same thing happens on a XS Max. I replaced a Linksys EA7500 with a Netgear R7000 and both phones still have the same issues with either router. Other devices don't seem to be affected. Even after restarting the modem and router the issue persists. The only way to get the full speeds is reboot the phone. I've reset network settings and set the phone up as new but it doesn't help. Doesn't seem what channel on the router 2.4ghz or 5ghz. All software is up to date on all devices. Any idea what could be causing this? [link] [comments]  |
| Squid Forward Proxy Bypass List? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:13 PM PST Hey Guys, I got a chunk of pfsense up at home and was looking at utilizing the squid forward proxy further at home. Many sites like apple dont like having a proxy in the middle of TLS and want a bypass, for sites like this is there a starting list some where? Thanks [link] [comments]  |
| WRT3200ACM MU-MIMO on open-source firmware? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:13 PM PST anyone know if any open-source firmware support MU-MIMO as well as 160Mhz WiFi for Linksys WRT3200ACM? [link] [comments]  |
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