Home Networking Jumbo frames still best practice? |
- Jumbo frames still best practice?
- Dual-Band Wi-Fi 6 vs Tri-Band Wi-Fi 5 Router. Which to buy?
- What products should I look at to increase performance of my home internet?
- WiFi in one room suddenly spotty at best - is my new smart TV to blame?
- Is it possible to get a faulty Ethernet cable? Trying to fix home network mesh
- Gigabit internet but only getting about 500 Mbps on devices...
- Home Network Montoring
- Does my approach to Synology Surveillance Station in a UniFi setup make any sense?
- Subnets, Gateways, and PFSense Routers
- DNS on iPv6 vs IPv4
- Another clueless person asking which router to buy - ELI5 please!
- Connecting my PC to my Modem/Router through different Ethernet ports
- Split cat5 cable
- MoCA 2.0 and 1 GHz Splitter Working at 930 Gbps on 1150 Band D Extended
- ISO NAS device that also acts like local USB storage
- I have no idea how ethernet ports work. Please help.
- Access Point Recommendation
- Minecraft Server behind Private Internet Access?
- New to Advanced Networking - Switched To Pfsense
- I upgraded my LTE internet from 25mbps to 50mbps, nothing changed
- is the bottleneck the router, the ISP, imaginary, or something else?
- Two routers connected in AP but the secondary fails after a while
- What to buy for wiring home / wired POE cameras
- PC to be used as a router
- Is my AX6000 router 4 X 4 MIMO or 8 X 8 MIMO
| Jumbo frames still best practice? Posted: 29 Sep 2020 04:50 PM PDT Hi all, I recall many years ago with the introduction of GbE that jumbo frames were all the rage for increasing throughput by decreasing packet overhead. Are jumbo frames still best practice? My apologies if this is a silly question. [link] [comments]  |
| Dual-Band Wi-Fi 6 vs Tri-Band Wi-Fi 5 Router. Which to buy? Posted: 29 Sep 2020 12:59 PM PDT Just looking for advice for a small to medium sized home, with maybe 4 to 8 devices connected at once. Some gaming consoles, smartphones, smart TVs, a laptop, basic stuff. I also see all these designations and am not sure what they mean. AC 3000, AX 3000, AC 1750, etc. Do these matter? Which would be the better investment and do you recommend any specific product? Thanks in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| What products should I look at to increase performance of my home internet? Posted: 29 Sep 2020 04:36 PM PDT Hi all, First off, I am a bit of a noob when it comes to networking - I know more than the average home WiFi user, but I'm not particularly advanced. I have tried to do my own research on this, but I've come across so many different opinions and recommendations that it has been hard for me to figure out exactly what I need. I recently switched to T-Mobile Home Internet, which is essentially just a WiFi hotspot that runs off 4G (traditional ISPs in my area are a joke). So far, it's worked pretty well, and it has been significantly better than the previous service. One issue I have had is that each network from the gateway/hostspot (2.4 gHz and 5gHz) has a 10 device cap. Often, I have to kick one device off the WiFi so another can use it. I called T-Mobile and was told to look into external router solutions, but I am not really sure if I should be looking at an all-in-one wireless router or some other setup with a router and an access point . My family members and I have around 30 devices currently - only one connected via LAN, others on WiFi - but some wiggle room would be nice for future smart devices. The house is 2,200 sq. ft., and while the hotspot does a decent job covering most of the house, it can be a bit spotty around the edges. Budget is probably less than $300, but the cheaper the better. Also, our download speed is usually less than 100 mbps, and upload speed is usually less than 10 mbps. Does anyone have any advice on what kind of setup I should pursue to support more devices and add signal range? [link] [comments]  |
| WiFi in one room suddenly spotty at best - is my new smart TV to blame? Posted: 29 Sep 2020 12:34 PM PDT So I've lived in this house about a year now, and I've used all the same networking equipment since day one. I have a 50mbps internet plan from AT&T (used to be 100 but that specific plan isn't available in the new neighborhood and they're too obsessed with 5G cell signal to upgrade it, according to the tech who hooked us up.) Anyway, my bedroom is on the opposite end of the house from the router, so my signal wasn't the best to begin with. Last week I replaced a 32" "dumb" TV + separate streaming box in this room with a new 55" wall mounted Smart TV. Since the addition of the new TV, the WiFi signal in this one room has been sporadic at best. My desktop PC (Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3168 built in) only has 2-3 bars of signal at any given time (from 4-5), with a download speed of around 3-5 mbps, and occasionally disconnects entirely. YouTube videos default to 240p unless I wait and let it buffer. All networking drivers are up to date. Other devices in the room, such as a MacBook Pro, an iPad, and a PS4, also have occasional issues now, but not as severe as the desktop. Coincidentally, the new TV has great signal and can stream 4K content without issue. And even when I'm watching over-the-air broadcasts on the TV instead of internet content, other devices now struggle. All devices are on my router's 5 GHz band. Things I have not yet tried include:
Does anyone know of any possible fixes? [link] [comments]  |
| Is it possible to get a faulty Ethernet cable? Trying to fix home network mesh Posted: 29 Sep 2020 07:28 AM PDT Context: I wanted to fix my ping spike issues as I was previously connected to our Google WiFi Home mesh. Previously, pinging my local address had about 15ms~100ms delay. The main WiFi point of the mesh network was physically next to the source, but connected via the 5m stock Ethernet cable. The two other WiFi points (sec1 and sec2) were about 7 meters apart separated by 0.5m-thick walls each . I was connected to sec1 wirelessly. What I did: I bought a 20m standard CAT5e Ethernet cable so that the main WiFi point was nearer to me but was still connected to the source. The two other WiFi points stayed where they were. I then ran a 10m Ethernet cable from the main WiFi point to my PC. What happened: For some reason, the SpeedTest result was effectively halved (~50 Mbps before, now ~25Mbps) while my upload speed stayed the same. This is true for all devices under the mesh, whether they're connected wirelessly or not. Practically though, it feels as if nothing changed. I tried connecting to the SSIDs of the main router (not part of the mesh) and I'm getting the intended speeds. I'm kinda lost now. What exactly should I be doing here? I have no idea how anything I've done should have affected my internet speeds. I've triple-checked all the settings and nothing changed. I've restarted the routers/mesh routers. I've checked the Ethernet cables that I used and there were no visible nicks/defects (and if there were any, shouldn't the stability be affected and not the speed?) Would the brand/length of my Ethernet cable even affect the download speeds if I'm not even reaching 100Mbps? The cable isn't sketchy and there's almost no negative reviews on it. I did run the cable as cleanly as I could in ceilings/corners, so there may be bends. I tried to avoid really sharp bends though, almost no 90° bends; tried to make them round. Also, I should say that I am not that knowledgeable about networking so this is the best description I can do. If there's any confusing parts I can try explaining further. [link] [comments]  |
| Gigabit internet but only getting about 500 Mbps on devices... Posted: 29 Sep 2020 01:42 PM PDT So I recently upgrades to AT&T fiber gigabit internet, but can't seem to get the expected speeds. Network setup: Wall - Arris NVG599 Modem - eero Pro - Switch - wired devices Testing that has been done: -Wired computer connected directly to eero Pro (running Win10) -Wired computer connected directly to Arris NVG599 (running Win10) - Ran Mint Linux Live OS (making sure Windows was not the problem) - Connected Macbook Pro directly to eero and to NVG599 All these test have had the same results (about 500 Mbps download speeds). The internal Arris NVG599 speed test results in about 900 Mbps and the eero speed test results in about 890 Mbps. Not sure what else I should be checking... Should I replace my ethernet cables? New ethernet card for wired computer? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Sep 2020 08:09 PM PDT Building my home network with a rack system. I want to monitor traffic, cpu, memory, storage on all 4 (3 windows 1 linux) servers. what tool will monitor those with an easy to use interface [link] [comments]  |
| Does my approach to Synology Surveillance Station in a UniFi setup make any sense? Posted: 29 Sep 2020 06:45 PM PDT There are a ton of posts about VLANs, Synology surveillance stations behind UniFi devices, switching/routing etc. etc, but my novice networking mind can't seem to figure this one out. Apologies if this has already been covered :-) My 6 network IP cameras (Axis 4k cameras) are connected to Synology Surveillance Station on my NAS, and pretty much stream 24/7. In previous setups the 4k video streams just overloaded my network and not unexpectedly caused me to have throughput issues on anything "data intensive" (TiVo streaming, Sonos etc). So, my solution is essentially this: Network Diagram I have not set up any firewall rules to manage traffic between my VLANs, but the devices in the attached diagram are tagged to their respective VLANs (in my UDM Pro) and are in two separate subnets . All my devices in VLAN 2 use static IP addresses and I have simply assigned one LAN port on my Synology NAS to an IP address in the subnet for VLAN 1 and the other to an IP address in the subnet for VLAN 2. I have not configured Synology to act as a router in any way. Since Synology handles all the recording and even live viewing of the cameras, if I want to access the recorded or live streams from the cameras, I can do so from VLAN 1 by simply accessing the Surveillance Station as normal. Everything seems to work well, but I am a little curious if I am overcomplicating things and if what I am doing makes any sense. Right now, the connection between the VLAN 2 switch and the UDM Pro (the green line in the diagram) is NOT attached, so I cannot directly access any of the cameras (I have to go through the Surveillance Station. This is exactly what I would expect. I have a few of questions that I'm hoping someone can help me with: - Assuming that the hardwire connection between VLAN 2 and the UDM Pro is NOT attached, is it ok to run VLAN 2 without a router? Or is that not what I'm doing? - If I connect the hardwire between VLAN 2 and the UDM Pro, will the traffic from the video cameras put a significant load on the UDM Pro, or does the bulk of the traffic bypass the UDM Pro and go straight to the Surveillance Station? I guess I'm not certain if the router is the bottle neck for all traffic on a network, or if the traffic bypasses the router once the routes have been established? - Essentially, what I am trying to figure out, is whether my approach is actually taking a load off of the VLAN 1 switch and the UDM Pro (by using the separate unmanaged switch), or should I simply attach all my devices into the UniFi switch and just assign the devices to different VLANs? [link] [comments]  |
| Subnets, Gateways, and PFSense Routers Posted: 29 Sep 2020 06:41 PM PDT Hi everyone! Hoping for a sanity check and some direction. I have a somewhat complex network that I've admittedly 'cheated' on the networking for. I have two networks in two cities (residential, planning on getting them linked via site-to-site VPN with PFSense) and we're using 10.0.0.0 for our addressing. For the purpose of this post I'll just focus on one of them but will be able to use what I learn for one to fix the other one. The network is currently set up as 10.0.0.0/8 and I know this is bad because it puts everyone in one broadcast domain. I have different groups of servers setup with different octets. This whole site is 10.3.0.0 with a PFSense router hooked to the WAN using 10.3.0.1. Then we have the following groupings broken down:
For networking gear we have PFSense running on a blade in a blade chassis with one pass-through module and connecting back to the network via a switch module in the chassis. The switch module connects to a 24 port managed switch. Attached to that is:
The Orbi mesh provides wireless and wired internet to the different floors of the house, while the 16 port provides wired connections to the main computer room for the family. Right now everything sits with a 255.0.0.0 subnet and can talk to everything else. I'd like to move everything to proper /24s but I'm not sure how I would do that with the equipment I have on hand. Can anyone advise how I can go about carving the network up into their own subnets? I know I'd need to establish routes to the other subnets where appropriate so folks in the DHCP space can consume services out of the VM area, and similarly when I get this site connected to the remote site (two family homes). Appreciate any guidance! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Sep 2020 06:41 PM PDT Last month I thought it would be fun to try and build my own DNS Server using python so I can filter ads and tracking domains across my home network. I have configured my router to direct all DNS queries to an old computer running Ubuntu which is where I have the python program running. The program is relatively simple, it receives all DNS Queries, inspects the DNS Packet and checks the domain against the blacklisted domains. If the domain is not in the blacklist, I forward the packet to an actual DNS Server, cache the response and forward it back to the original client. Steps:
Everything seems to be working perfectly. The only thing issue I have left is when a client on my home network is using IPv6. For some reason, when I am sending them a DNS response (from my cache or from google), the client seems to drop the packed because it was an unsolicited DNS Response. Using Wireshark, I can see the request and response look normal, the only thing is that in the DNS Response it says [Unsolicited: True] at the end. Source/Destination and Ports and DNS Txn IDs are all matching and I am just left scratching my head. If anyone has any ideas why this could be, I would be very appreciative. [link] [comments]  |
| Another clueless person asking which router to buy - ELI5 please! Posted: 29 Sep 2020 03:52 PM PDT I know it's been asked a million times in this subreddit, but I can't find anything that still doesn't make my eyes glaze over (or current for 2020) that makes sense to me. I don't know any of the acronyms and such, and just need the simplest answer: for someone who knows *nothing* about this stuff, how do you know which router to pick? I currently have the Linksys EA6350 and I've confirmed with Linksys that it's toast. I only had it 2 years and they sent me that one, so I didn't need to "shop". I live in a small apartment in a complex, I don't do any kind of gaming and just work from home and stream Netflix like any single gal in their early 30s. I have 2 Macbooks, my phone, iPad, printer, and a Google home connected to wifi at any given point of time. Current internet speed is 100Mb. I'm cheap (frugal?), but I also don't want to buy anything again soon. I don't really have a budget. Can someone just say "here's a the piece of plastic with wires and lights that will do the thing. You should buy it! Buy the thing!" [link] [comments]  |
| Connecting my PC to my Modem/Router through different Ethernet ports Posted: 29 Sep 2020 06:03 PM PDT Context: I recently moved to a new apartment, and I am trying to set up my internet. I have my Arris modem/router plugged in in my living room and my wifi is working. In the other room, I am trying to get my PC to connect to the internet. My PC is connected with an Ethernet cable to an Ethernet port in the wall. The modem/router is also plugged in to an Ethernet port using LAN1. Will this work? Are Ethernet ports in different rooms connected? I know that I can plug my PC directly into the modem, but that will require me to totally rearrange the room. Any help would be greatly appreciated! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Sep 2020 08:29 PM PDT Sooooo I live in a condo that has a cat5 cable running back to the building's electrical room. The building recently got a new isp and I've come to find that my cat5 has been split somewhere in its run to the electrical room from my condo causing slow speeds (200 mbps vs 1 gig). I had the isp tech try and troubleshoot my line, but we couldn't find out where the cat5 line was split/damaged to address. Ideally to get full speeds I need to have a full cable running to the electrical room. The building was built over 50 years ago, so I imagine it would super difficult to run a new line. Is the only option to pay some guy to bash holes in my wall to trace the line or should I pay some commercial networking company to run a new line for me (if that is even possible)? Any help is greatly appreciated :) [link] [comments]  |
| MoCA 2.0 and 1 GHz Splitter Working at 930 Gbps on 1150 Band D Extended Posted: 29 Sep 2020 07:55 PM PDT I'm confused. I finally got around to running some coax cable today. I was getting ready to swap out a 1002 MHz coax splitter for a BAMF 2300 MHz splitter, but then I decided to see what would happen with my Actiontec ECB6200 MoCA 2.0 adapters if I left the 1002 Mhz splitter in in. To my surprise, not only did the MoCA adapters work, but iperf showed I was getting 930 Mbps. My first thought was maybe the Actiontec MoCA adapters were doing something intelligent and downgrading the lower frequency E and F bands. However, when I opened the Actiontec admin web page (192.168.144.30), it showed it was running on Band D Extended RF channel 1150. I'm wouldn't have expected this to work at full speed based on all the information suggesting I need higher frequency splitter (1625 MHz to support the full range of MoCA 2.0 channels). Additionally the Actiontec's adapter's admin page didn't show any errors on the line. The Rx power was -52 dbM. Am I missing something, or did a just get lucky with a splitter that can work at frequencies higher than what it's rated for? [link] [comments]  |
| ISO NAS device that also acts like local USB storage Posted: 29 Sep 2020 01:35 PM PDT As the title states, I am looking for an NAS that I can connect via USB to a Smart TV, so I can store media on the NAS from another system, and be able to access it on the TV like it's plain old USB storage. TIA!! [link] [comments]  |
| I have no idea how ethernet ports work. Please help. Posted: 29 Sep 2020 07:15 PM PDT I have no experience with home networking at all so I'm going to need a baby level explanation for this one. So it seems that the ethernet ports located around my house on the walls don't work at all when I plug something into them like my laptop. It doesn't even say it's connected. Does it have something to do with my internet provider? Is there something in my house I'm supposed to turn on? Sorry for the stupid question. Once again, I have no idea how this stuff works. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Sep 2020 07:13 PM PDT I'm using Amazon. I was curious as to recommendations for any access points I can get for gaming. Specifically I just need 1 upstairs. I have no issues with connection until someone else decides to watch Netflix. At that point it makes my games laggy to the point of being unplayable. I would prefer to use an access point with no Ethernet connected to the router because the router is downstairs. I rent so I can't exactly invest money into making holes in the house and my parents are pretty against having an Ethernet run through the house. Using this method I would still connect the access point to my Xbox with an Ethernet cable. If an Ethernet connection to an access point is absolutely necessary for it to be worth the money it would be a great help if you could recommend some different product that would be effective for my issue however I probably could convince my parents to allow the Ethernet if there are no cheap alternatives. Please note I'm looking for stuff specifically for helping make my gaming experience better. I plan on having my Nintendo switch and phone connected to the access point wireless and the Xbox have a wired connection. Those are the only 3 devices that will be connected Edit: looking for costs $150 or below however I can go a little over [link] [comments]  |
| Minecraft Server behind Private Internet Access? Posted: 29 Sep 2020 03:07 PM PDT Like the title says, how would run a Minecraft server alongside having PIA running on the same machine.? I'm trying to make the port forwarding as safe as possible. Thank you in advance. [link] [comments]  |
| New to Advanced Networking - Switched To Pfsense Posted: 29 Sep 2020 03:06 PM PDT I recently switched to Pfsense and so far I really like it. It is overwhelming but it is coming together. I m stuck on some networking basics though and not sure where to start. Here is my setup: Pfsense gb0 = WAN gb1 = LAN Pfsense -> 8 port TPlink SG108E switch -> Netgear 8 port gs108Ev3 Switch -> AP Pro Everything is working on a basic install. When I move I'll look into a single switch setup but for now I need two. Here is where I am stuck as I want to start small with a Guest and IoT SSID in an isolated VLAN but I need to trunk between the switches. I'm running into communication issues at the beginning.
EDIT: I have the pfsense vlan side understood but where I'm stuck is here: Ap Pro has 2 SSIDs right now. One needs to be on VLAN 90. The other needs to pass through normal. The AP plugs into SW2.. SW2 port 1 connects to SW1 Port 8. Then SW1 Port 1 connects to Pfsense. I'm confused on how to tag/untag/leave blank to get both the VLANs across and trunk all traffic out. [link] [comments]  |
| I upgraded my LTE internet from 25mbps to 50mbps, nothing changed Posted: 29 Sep 2020 06:52 PM PDT Yesterday I upgraded from 25mbps to 50 with Xplornet (Canadian isp). I noticed very little improvements. I used to get between 4 to 6mbps with Speedtest before the upgrade and now I get between 4 and 7mbps. Do I have to change settings on the router? The operator promised me that my speed would double. [link] [comments]  |
| is the bottleneck the router, the ISP, imaginary, or something else? Posted: 29 Sep 2020 06:42 PM PDT I just ran a bunch of speed tests because I'm trying to figure out if my router is the weak link in my network or not (spurred on by my roommate saying his Apple TV had difficulty connecting to the network, but I also think that's a consequence of his Apple TV and not the router.) My router is a Netgear WNDR3400v2 N600, purchased in 2013. A quick Google search shows that its upper limit on bandwidth is 300 mbps. My current service plan is "only" 100 mbps, so that's of little worry. I plugged my computer directly into the router via ethernet cable, turned off wifi, and ran a speed test, and got 90ish mbps. Then I unplugged it from ethernet, reconnected it to the 5GHZ network from the router, left it very nearby the router, and ran the speed test again on Ookla, choosing the Comcast server (I have service from Comcast/XFINITY.) Again, it reads in the 80-90mbps range. However, if I choose any other server from the dropdown menu on Ookla, or run the speed test that's available via Google by just typing "speed test" in the search bar, it always caps out at about 20 mbps, no matter where I am in the house (near the router, far from it, up in my bedroom, down near my roommate's bedroom, etc.) What I can't figure out is: what speed test do I believe and what is the actual internet speed? I'm inclined to believe that the reported internet speed when I connect to the same test site as hosted by my ISP will result in higher numbers, but are those the actual connection numbers? Or is my speed actually closer to the 20mbps that every other test is reporting? I was originally going to see if my router was at fault but it doesn't really seem to be, and we usually don't have problems with using many multiple devices connected to the internet at the same time for streaming, etc. except for when my roommate was trying to stream games from PSNow vs downloading them to the PS4. My question is- is this indicative of a router issue, an ISP issue, or is there something I'm missing altogether? My bandwidth needs seem to be served well from the 20mbps I'm getting (unless that 20 is actually 80-90?) But if it really is only 20, then I feel like I should lower my plan even further so I can save some money from Xfinity. [link] [comments]  |
| Two routers connected in AP but the secondary fails after a while Posted: 29 Sep 2020 12:16 PM PDT I have a second router connected to my main one (lan-lan) setup as AP. I disabled DHCP on it, gave it 192.168.1.2, same ssid and pass and changed its channel not to interfere. It works great but then after a while it fails. If I restart the second router it works again but same thing happens after a while. Any ideas on how to solve this issue? Maybe it's the router? I should let you know I'm really a noob with this ;) [link] [comments]  |
| What to buy for wiring home / wired POE cameras Posted: 29 Sep 2020 05:58 PM PDT Hello there! I live in an older house and wiring the house is going to be a pain in the ass because my crawl space is tiny (not able to get down there really), and pulling it through the walls doesn't seem feasible, and we have no attic/space above (tack down roof). So, I bought 1000ft of CAT 6 outdoor rated ethernet to run outside and atop the eaves outside. This admittedly is seeming like it's going to be a pain in the ass too because the cable sheathing is so thick it's hard to bend. And reading up it's so hard to find good keystone jacks that are recommended by anyone for this thick cable etc. It's TrueCable Cat6 outdoor rated (unshielded). My hope was to wire 3-4 POE cameras and connect them directly to some type of POE ubiquiti product. I also have CenturyLink fiber, so the hope was to combine the ubiquiti product (switch/router or switch + router) with POE so I wouldn't need the centurylink router anymore. I have a TV, and 2 computers I'd be hard wiring into the switch/router as well. I guess what I'm asking is for any suggestions for which ubiquiti product, or am I just way over thinking this / putting to much work into something like this? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 29 Sep 2020 02:01 PM PDT I want to utilize an old pc and convert it into a home router. I was gifted an old AOpen DE7000 mini pc and was hoping I could make it work. Problem I'm seeing is that it only has 1 ethernet port on rear which I'm assuming kills it for me since I would need to send the signal into the pc and back out to the switch. Are there any workarounds for this? [link] [comments]  |
| Is my AX6000 router 4 X 4 MIMO or 8 X 8 MIMO Posted: 29 Sep 2020 05:38 PM PDT Excuse me for my ignorance but I am all too much confused on this. My router rated at AX6000 has 8 antennas. According to the manual, it has 4 X 2.4Ghz + 4 X 5Ghz antennas. So is this capable of 4 X 4 MIMO or 8 X 8 MIMO in Wifi 6(ax) mode? More I try to research on my own, more I am confused. [link] [comments]  |
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