Home Networking I've noticed 5ghz is a HUGE battery drain (about double 2.4ghz) while in video calls. FYI |
- I've noticed 5ghz is a HUGE battery drain (about double 2.4ghz) while in video calls. FYI
- IP addresses for bridge mode
- Update - Is CAT 6 really worth it?
- How should I access my home network from outside my home securely?
- Looking for a way to make devices seamlessly switch between Access Point and Router
- Would you make the same cable choices?
- Corona Shed Internet
- Looking for a little guidance for setting up a network for a small business/warehouse.
- Can’t use ASUS router app after upgrading firmware due to HTTPS
- Networking Amateur Question: Subnet vs VLAN for home network/smart home/security system
- 1400+ MS bufferbloat, no qoS on router?
- Fiber Optic in residential
- looking for advice after switching to fiber
- How to judge it a router is dying?
- Four SSIDs on one router with DD-WRT?
- How to make the Ethernet jacks active in my apartment.
- TP-Link TL-AP1907GC-PoE
- MoCA/Access Points/Mesh
- Just ordered a Netgear CM1100 for DOCSIS 3.1 to take advantage of gigabit cable service. Will it work if I plug it into the existing modem+router unit I have? (Effectively making it just a router)
- Replacing the default xfinity/Comcast modem for 140-200 USD
- Trying to hook up a wireless extender (AP Mode) to my router
- Routers.
- Most efficient way to upgrade Current Verizon system
- ASUS RT-AC65P vs RT-AC66U B1 vs ?
| I've noticed 5ghz is a HUGE battery drain (about double 2.4ghz) while in video calls. FYI Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:47 AM PDT Some people might already know this, so if you do, this isn't so much for you, but for the people that DON'T: Here's what I've gathered about 5ghz on mobile devices in times of Zoom / Skype / Whatsapp / Facetime calls. I am a teacher and for the last 45 days we've been conducting all of our classes online. Some of the classes end up being 1-to-1 so I just directly call over my phone and do a video chat. I've noticed that the video call over 5ghz, lasting 1 hour, will leave me at around 40% battery from 100% on my Galaxy Note 9, while switching to 2.4ghz will leave me at around 80% for the same hour. I've been testing this for the last few weeks and it's been quite consistent. The distance is Line of Sight to the router of 2 meters at most, nothing between the device and the router. I know that downloading or uploading the battery usage is negligible (and streaming as well since it downloads the information in packets and then redownloads after completing the amount of data it has received). 5ghz uses more energy, but the time you save from downloading a file or uploading a file is faster, so in the end it it comes out to be the same energy. But if the connection is continuous then the use of 5ghz is considerably higher in the end. --All of this assuming that you have a good connection to both. I haven't conducted the same experiment on my laptop since it's mostly plugged in since I'm plugged the majority of the day and it makes no difference to me, but maybe it follows the same concept. TLDR: For continuous videocalls, 5ghz will chew through your battery on your phone. Switch to 2.4ghz - You won't notice the difference in video call at 2.4ghz and you'll get 2-3x longer battery life in video calls. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 23 Apr 2020 07:40 PM PDT Tonight I will be setting my comcast gateway device to bridge mode and connecting my own router. Currently, the comcast device is set to 10.0.0.1 and I have several devices with static IP address in that subnet. Once in bridge mode will I be okay to give the new router a static IP of 10.0.0.1? Or do I need to use something else? Also, I have a couple of APs, what should I set their gateway IP address to? [link] [comments]  |
| Update - Is CAT 6 really worth it? Posted: 23 Apr 2020 02:15 PM PDT First thank you everyone for taking the time to read my original post and providing good advice and an overall good discussion. So what did I decide (drum roll...) - I decided to go CAT 6 at every drop. The majority of the drops I added are for ceiling mounted cameras and APs. Some of you hit the nail on the head, I was mainly undecided because of what I believe was an inflated cost. After tweaking my initial plan, to include relocating two drops that were included in the original purchase agreement, I ended up adding 10 CAT6 drops. Plus I removed a floorplug in the media room so that cut costs a little (but then i turned around and applied those "cut costs" to adding another conduit.) Regardless whether I notice an improved home network with CAT6, and zero bearing on future sale price, I figured (as some suggested) it's a small price to pay to go ahead and get it done. Misc. responses to some suggestions: Builder wouldn't allow me to provide materials or terminate runs I opted not to run cable myself when the site was empty. I was very tempted to do this, but after buying two spools of CAT6, a few necessary supplies, and my time I decided not to. Plus, per the contract I am not permitted to add/subtract anything to the build prior to closing. So i was still tempted... I walked several other models that only have the frame up and electrical installed, and majority of the wire is ran through holes drilled in the frame/studs and then fire retardant insulation sealing the holes. I was still slightly tempted but at this point, considering everything above, and then having someone from the county inspect the construction I was concerned I could a mistake. (I was told inspectors generally do not give low voltage much attention but with my luck I'm sure it would be different). Thanks again everyone, I'll post an update months from now when everything is done. [link] [comments]  |
| How should I access my home network from outside my home securely? Posted: 23 Apr 2020 01:15 PM PDT I currently have a a tiny homelab (pihole, Plex, minecraft server, and some other stuff) that I would like to access outside of my home. Would OpenVPN or Wireguard or another service be best for this? I actively use Wireguard for a paid VPN as well but I just wanted to make sure it would work just the same. I currently run Ubuntu server on my lab machine. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for a way to make devices seamlessly switch between Access Point and Router Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:18 PM PDT Hey All, So in my home we have 2 routers. Our main router is connected to our modem and handles all the DHCP requests and so on. The second router is in access point mode. Both routers are setup with the same security and SSID. I'm wondering if there is a way to make it so that our devices automatically switch to which ever router is providing a stronger signal? I am experimenting with 5GHz networking for the extra speed but obviously the range is not as good as 2.4GHz. Which is why I connected a second router in AP mode. However it seems once connected to one router the device will not switch to the stronger signal unless I manually turn the device's WiFi off and back on. [link] [comments]  |
| Would you make the same cable choices? Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:11 PM PDT Hi reddit. I work in IT and have prosumer grade network gear (Unifi UDMP, 16 port POE switch, UPS, 1 x AC PRO, 4 x IW-HD). there is a TL;DR at the end. The house is a 2 story 2500 sqft property in a desert climate. In order to run from the casita (separate room from the house, attached to the structure) into the house, we have to run conduit on the outside. The conduit will make entry into the house in the attic and then the cables will end in the chosen rack location. In the attic is the forced air furnace(s) and whatever parts of the AC (compressors?) are in the attic. The rest of the cable runs will be from the 2nd floor bedrooms (3 of them) to the rack location. I am going to have a drop on the main floor ceiling for the access point. This requires opening a small hole in the wall and drilling through the floor under the rack on the 2nd floor and obviously a hole in the main floor ceiling. Each drop will have 2 cables drops. I am concerned about the ambient temperature and high temperatures in the summer (117 F / 48 C) and the impact on the wires in the metal conduit on the outside of the house. ok, now the groundwork is laid lets talk type of cable. With the internet providers currently providing 1G up/down, the speed will only increase over the next few years. so 6a is the logical choice for type of cable. I am thinking riser cable (CMR) as it will be used in the walls and vertically from the drops to rack location. general use (CM) doesn't seem to make sense. CMP is used for "in plenum" or in the air/heat ducts or cold air returns. I am not wiring in there. From a price standpoint, UTP is the least expensive. I am worried about cross talk with 4 network cables being in close proximity in the conduit over a long (< 100 feet run) and in the desert heat. I am thinking S/FTP (Shielded Foil twisted Pair) is the best bet. I am not planning on running POE over the 4 cables in the long run (casita to rack location). What do you recommend for type of cable - UTP, FTP, SFTP ? TL;DR: Running 4 cat 6a outside through metal conduit in desert climate into house through attic. Wiring upstairs bedrooms (2 drops each) with cat 6a to rack location. Looking for feedback on type of cable to use. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 23 Apr 2020 07:15 PM PDT I've been working from home out of a 10x12 shed in our backyard about 50 feet from a back corner of my house. I power the shed with a 100ft 12-3 outdoor extension cord by itself on a 20amp circuit. A Powerline device is weak when it works at all. I have two Google Wifi pucks in the house that reach to the shed so-so most of the time but top out at around 20Mbps. They'd work better but for another 4x10 all metal shed between my office shed and the house. Could I run Cat 6a from my Spectrum router (200Mbps) back up into the attic, to the end of the house, along the outside of the house tucked up into the soffit and fascia, and then next to the extension cord for the last 50 feet to the shed. Total length of the Cat 6a would probably be around 125-150ft. This is not a permanent setup but just something for the next few months. [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for a little guidance for setting up a network for a small business/warehouse. Posted: 23 Apr 2020 02:05 PM PDT I am the chef of a catering company that is in the process of moving to a new facility. We already have a contract signed with Comcast, I don't have copy of that on me at the moment but I believe we have selected their 75 down tier. I am taking this project from a colleague, we had a bid for a very thorough network install from a communications company. We need connectivity for about 4000 sq/ft, our bid had a full switch and rack and was about $3000. I need 10ish desktops to be able to email essentially and provide staff wifi for their phones. I am a bit concerned about the speed they chose and it handling 20-30 devices. With that being said the vast majority of connectivity will be emailing and web browsing, so I am thinking of installing a mesh network (Eero.) I have an Eero system at home that works excellent, great purchase and have not had any issue maybe the best customer service I have ever encountered. My plan is to have the nodes placed above the acoustic ceiling tiles. A few things I am looking for some clarity on:
I appreciate any help, thank you! [link] [comments]  |
| Can’t use ASUS router app after upgrading firmware due to HTTPS Posted: 23 Apr 2020 06:39 PM PDT So I just got my new ASUS AC3100 and I really like it. I was excited to use the new app to control my router and all that, but after doing a software update, it no longer works. I have to delete the router, then reconnect it, and only then will it work for a couple minutes before the app tells me that it'll change from HTTP to HTTPS, and after it does that, the app won't connect to the router. Has anyone else had these issues? [link] [comments]  |
| Networking Amateur Question: Subnet vs VLAN for home network/smart home/security system Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:49 AM PDT So I have very basic knowledge about networks. I am able to set up a small home network on an unmanaged switch, which is where I am at now, and have a very basic understanding of networking principles . I decided to take on a fun home DIY and am in the beginning stages of setting up a home security/smart home system. Obviously I want all the components to be separated into their own networks, but I am having a bit of trouble understanding how to do that. As of right now I have a single CAT6 cable connecting my router to my switch. In doing my research, I cant seem to find an explanation that I fully understand comparing subnets to VLANs. From what I understand, subnets are set at the router while VLANs are set at the switch, but do you need one to set up the other? If I just go to a managed switch and set up separate VLANs from that, is that accomplishing the same thing? Do I get two completely separate switches and hook them both into my router, one managed and one unmanaged? Can I connect my unmanaged switch into a managed switch and then the managed switch into the router? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just having fun learning all this stuff. [link] [comments]  |
| 1400+ MS bufferbloat, no qoS on router? Posted: 23 Apr 2020 02:07 PM PDT Hello, Recently I have been experiencing lots of internet issues, especially with any gaming. I ran a DSL speedtest and noticed copious amounts of bufferbloat on my download, peaking around 1480ms. The advertised solution on most forums is using QoS on your router to fix this, but I have a default XFi gateway which does not have any QoS settings. Any help? Should I contact Comcast? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 23 Apr 2020 12:47 PM PDT My neighborhood is getting fiberoptic cables put in, and I am going to upgrade my internet once the construction is complete. I am just wondering if I need to update the coaxal cables inside my house. I'm not too familiar with this sort of stuff, but to my knowledge I have coaxal cables running throughout my house and in order to get the full speed of the fiber optic cables do I need to replace them? [link] [comments]  |
| looking for advice after switching to fiber Posted: 23 Apr 2020 01:57 PM PDT Hey everyone.... so my house is fairly new and it was wired for Coax and ethernet throughout. When I had Comcast it was no issue. I had the coax come out to the modem, then the modem connected to the wan port of a router, and that router with a cable into the lan port on the wall which went to a centralized box that had a switch, and thus I had hot ethernet going to every room. After I switched to FIOS, things changed. All of the ethernet ports are hot in the house, but how they are all directly coming from the Fibre box. I have a router in my office that does wifi, but it's not actually managing the network for the rest of the ports in the house. they're all just unsecured ports going directly to the fibre box. So I think I need a router in the coax\ethernet box. problem is that I don't think I can really fit a wireless router in there, and even if I could its a closet way in the back of the bedroom and might diminish wifi range. I'm not sure what to do. Is there a non-wireless router I can get that I just slave a wireless AP to? I want to make sure I'm not introducing too many hardware bottlenecks. [link] [comments]  |
| How to judge it a router is dying? Posted: 23 Apr 2020 05:39 PM PDT I'm having intermittent WiFi issues lately and I can't decide if it's my router slowly dying or some result of the excess load from Corona For a long time I've had intermittent (once a week, often at night) issues where my ADSL will drop out randomly and reconnect after 5 minutes More recently I've also started having trouble with my WiFi, the ranger/strength seems reduced, and also I can often have connection but no internet access I've tried the usual rebooting, resetting to factory, moving the router around, checking on multiple wireless devices Some have issues some don't. Some will maintain a connection, but if I manually disconnect will then have trouble reconnecting Also there is a general slowness to the WiFi, 3mbps compared to 40mbps on lan at all ranges and all locations ... 10mbps up for both??? Basically, is my router dying a slow painful death? Or is it just general shitty internet because of the virus? If it's the former, can you recommend a good, sub £30 dual band AC access point (I have a spare ISP router with single band n) The router is a Plusnet Hub One 2 PCs connected via Lan 1 pc via n WiFi 1 pc via ac wifi 1 laptop via ac WiFi 1 honor 20 via ac WiFi 3 Google homes via n WiFi? 1 hisense TV via ac WiFi [link] [comments]  |
| Four SSIDs on one router with DD-WRT? Posted: 23 Apr 2020 09:10 PM PDT I have an R7000 running DD-WRT v3.0-r42954 std. I have two SSIDs on the 2.4 GHz band -- one for my computer, phone, etc. (let's call it "main"), and one for all the other random, dodgy devices I've got that require wifi (let's call it "other"). The "other" network has net isolation and AP isolation enabled, so devices on that network can't see my "main" network, or see each other, and it can't access the router's administration page. The "main" addresses to 192.168.1.x, and the "other" addresses to 192.168.10.x. I also have a 5Ghz network that is visible to my "main" network (but not the "other" network) and also addresses to 192.168.1.x. I'd like to have a 5 GHz version of the "other" network, too. However, when I set it up the same way I set up the 2.4 GHz network, I can connect and get an IP address, but I don't have any internet connectivity. To set up the "other" network on the 2.4 GHz band, I followed the instructions on the DD-WRT website about Guest Networks (link). (Add a Virtual Interface, enable AP Isolation, set to Unbridged, enable NAT, enable Net Isolation, Enable Forced DNS Redirection, fill in DNS server, IP Address, and Subnet Mask, enable DHCPD and add DHCP server.) But when I go through those same steps a second time, everything works except the internet. Is it possible to set it up? What could I be doing wrong? [link] [comments]  |
| How to make the Ethernet jacks active in my apartment. Posted: 23 Apr 2020 09:08 PM PDT I have Ethernet jacks in all the rooms but none of them are active. The router is connected in the living room via coaxial cable. I was wondering if it's possible to connect my devices using the Ethernet jack in my bedroom. The setup is in my closet. Will it work if I connected the router in closet. https://imgur.com/gallery/MwPpg9Q Thank you [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 23 Apr 2020 09:05 PM PDT Has anyone heard before this Wireless AP model from TP-Link? It appears to be a China only model but it has quite good specs. And it's quite cheap. Wonder if it works with Omada controller. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 23 Apr 2020 01:18 PM PDT Hi everyone, I had previously posted a question about mesh vs. access points. I mentioned that I have some coax cables already wired in the house from a prior owner and /u/Bouvy mentioned MoCA. So I started looking into MoCA and my internet more generally. We have FIOS, which I think already runs on MoCA (for example). Here is what I have currently in terms of internet setup: https://imgur.com/gallery/zaZG5JF
So here is my question. If I go with MoCA, do I need a new router? The wifi is weakest on the third floor. So it would be ideal if the wires on the third floor, that aren't connected to anything, could just go into something to get wifi on my third floor. But I don't think I can just plug that into a new wifi router, because then I'd have two SSIDs. I guess I'm not quite sure how FiOS works. I don't understand the relationship between the box outside, and the box inside (pics 1/3 in my imgur link). There's nothing coming "out" of the inside box, so does that mean the 'source' of my internet is the outdoor box going to splitter? So then doesn't that mean I need a router if I'm going to use the third floor cables? Sorry if my question isn't very clear; if I'm phrasing something incorrectly i can try to refine. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:44 PM PDT Ok so at home I have a Netgear C7000, a router+modem combo that has DOCSIS 3.0. We recently upgraded to gigabit cable so we ordered a Netgear CM1100 modem that has DOCSIS 3.1 so we can actually take advantage of it. If I plug the coax cable into the CM1100, and then connect the two devices via ethernet, will the C7000 still work as a normal router? So to be clear, I would remove the coax cable from the C7000 and put it on the CM1100 instead. Then, connect the two with ethernet. [link] [comments]  |
| Replacing the default xfinity/Comcast modem for 140-200 USD Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:43 PM PDT Trying to replace the modem rental to save the $14/mo for my 50-something parents. Their feed is up to 300mbps. My mother works from home on the wifi sometimes. There are never more than 4 devices consuming media at the same time (not sure if cable TV requires wifi/ethernet cord connection. If so, then 5 devices, and only the TV is UHD), no gaming, etc. 1 story house, ~1300 sqft. Hoping that budget is appropriate, don't even know whether the budget should be way higher and my expectations are off. By searching other posts from the past year, I found ARRIS SURFboard SB8200 DOCSIS 3.1 and TP-LINK Archer C7 AC1750 which i think are compatible, but the cost quickly ran up to over 220. Is this overkill? Or maybe not very good? I don't want my parents to need something new in less than 4,5 years and complain that "we should have just kept the provided one that they maintain." I know that all-in-ones are not recommended on this subreddit, but since they don't need a ton of performance, would any suffice (and still be relatively future-proof)? I have a quasi-IT background (and can probably set something up using the NetworkingForBeginners guide in the side bar and Google/YouTube), but if power gets knocked out, I imagine that all-in-ones are easier to get back online, but idk if a modem and router would also be self-recovering to go back online (since I live out of state), or am I wrong and they're all equally low-maintenance/self-correcting/plug-and-play? Edit: I realize I never asked the big question: should I go with those 2 listed or go with a different setup (either 2 in 1 or router and modem), and if so, what woud you recommend? [link] [comments]  |
| Trying to hook up a wireless extender (AP Mode) to my router Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:38 PM PDT Hey guys, I can't seem to hook up my AC750 TP-Link wifi extender to my NetGear AC1200 Modem router in AP mode. As soon as I plug the ethernet into the AC750 Extender, the signal is completely lost and it cuts out the internet to both devices. It works fine in the regular wireless extender mode but I have actually run a wired link to the rear or my property and I'm not sure why it cuts out everytime I plug it in on AP mode. Somehow I think the NETGear Router is not accepting the Wifi extenders IP or something like that.... Even though I run huge network cabling for a living. I can't seem to figure out this small problem.. Anyone could point me in the right direction or give me some guidance to fix this issue? All my other devices connect perfectly fine to the Netgear AC1200 such as my iphone or macbook, Smart TV etc. Except this annoying little wifi extender just wont connect!! Thanks a lot [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:21 PM PDT Hey all, I'm wondering what the difference is between the TD-W8968 Router and the newer routers. How have some improved compared to the TD-W8968 Router? [link] [comments]  |
| Most efficient way to upgrade Current Verizon system Posted: 23 Apr 2020 08:20 PM PDT So I just read the guide in the sidebar at https://www.homenethowto.com/ and wow, that is an amazing resource. I have some ideas, but wanted to get everyone's ideas because I may have a prime setup for MoCa but that wasn't addressed much in that guide. Here's the setup in my 3 story + basement townhome, as well as basic info:
So my internet overall seems okay, except when watching live TV. Currently, my antenna gets reception on the third floor, sends it to the Fire TV Recast which sends it via wifi down to the first floor back up to my Fire stick in my bedroom on the third floor (and the other Fire sticks around the house) so there is a lot of pixelation, loading, etc. I would like to invest in a solution that will make the wifi all over the house better and be good for a while. So a few questions:
Thanks for any advice! If anybody wants to get extra creative, what would you recommend for a budget of $200, $500, or $1000? [link] [comments]  |
| ASUS RT-AC65P vs RT-AC66U B1 vs ? Posted: 23 Apr 2020 11:05 AM PDT I cant decide between these 2 routers. 65P is 15euros cheaper and seems to be newer than 66U-B1. I live in a two floor concrete house with ~9 wireless devices and 4 wired. What do you guys recommend around 100eu? [link] [comments]  |
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