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    Saturday, February 8, 2020

    Simple Questions - February 08, 2020

    Simple Questions - February 08, 2020


    Simple Questions - February 08, 2020

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 04:08 AM PST

    This thread is for simple questions that don't warrant their own thread (although we strongly suggest checking the sidebar and the wiki before posting!). Please don't post involved questions that are better suited to a [Build Help], [Build Ready] or [Build Complete] post. Examples of questions:

    • Is this RAM compatible with my motherboard?
    • I'm thinking of getting a GTX 1070. Which one should I get?
    • I'm on a very tight budget and I'm looking for a case < $50

    Remember that Discord is great places to ask quick questions as well: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/wiki/livechat

    Important: Downvotes are strongly discouraged in this thread. Sorting by new is strongly encouraged.

    Have a question about the subreddit or otherwise for /r/buildapc mods? We welcome your mod mail!

    Looking for all the Simple Questions threads? Want an easy way to locate today's thread? This link is now in the sidebar below the yellow Rules section.

    submitted by /u/AutoModerator
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    A guide to monitor response times

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 10:09 AM PST

    When I read various PC building subreddits and forums, there seems to be a lot of confusion around response times and what they actually mean. People always ask for 1ms because they believe lower is better, but there is so much more to it than that. Hopefully this guide can provide some context to the specs that manufacturers quote.

    Understanding response time

    "Response time" is basically the amount of time it takes for a pixel to change ("transition") from one color to another, typically measured in milliseconds (ms). This is different from framerate or refresh rate of a monitor, typically measured in hertz (hz).

    Each frame rate has a "refresh window", or the amount of time available for a pixel to switch colors, which is linked to the refresh rate you are running. So if you have a 60hz monitor, that means it will display a new frame every 1/60th of a second, or every 16.67 ms. So as long as a pixel can complete its transition in under 16.67 ms, the monitor can provide a "true" 60hz experience. If a pixel takes longer than 16.67 ms to change, it would be in the middle of a transition when it receives a new instruction to move to a new color, which leads to "smearing" on the screen.

    Here are some common refresh rates and their corresponding windows:

    • 60 hz = 1/60 = 16.67 ms

    • 75 hz = 13.33 ms

    • 100 hz = 10.00 ms

    • 120 hz = 8.33 ms

    • 144 hz = 6.94 ms

    • 240 hz = 4.167 ms

    Notice anything? Even at 240 hz, a "4 ms" monitor is still within the refresh window for a true 240 hz experience. But just because a monitor is advertised as "4 ms" (or even 1 ms) doesn't mean it will be suitable for a refresh rate listed above. That's because any response time you see on a monitor box will most likely be "G2G" or gray to gray. Unsurprisingly, response times change depending on the color that is currently displayed and the color you wish to transition to. Some transitions take longer than others. The "average" response time may be 4 ms, but if certain transitions take much longer than that, you'll still end up with some smearing (usually with dark colors).

    What about Overdrive?

    Overdrive is similar to overclocking a monitor, where you can provide higher voltages to the pixels in hopes of achieving faster response times. Usually monitors allow you to select from Off, Low, Normal, or Extreme overdrive modes.

    Here is an example response time chart with Overdrive OFF, which shows various response times for different transitions. It can achieve an average G2G response time of 5.88 ms with 83.5% of transition happening within the 144hz window.

    Here is the same monitor with Overdrive set to EXTREME. Now it has an average G2G response time of 1.72 ms, with 100% in the window.

    Speed and Accuracy

    So why wouldn't you use the EXTREME mode? Well, response time (speed) is only half of the story. The other half is accuracy, and I intentionally cropped the graphics above to exclude the corresponding accuracy. Here are the full graphics:

    Overdrive OFF

    Overdrive EXTREME

    Frequently, these very fast response times are only possible with very high error rates. This means that in the monitor's rush to transition quickly, they overshoot their target color and have to correct itself. This creates "inverse ghosting", where a lighter trail appears behind moving objects as the monitor corrects itself.

    To fully understand what a monitor is capable of, you have to consider both speed (response times) and accuracy (overshoot). Usually the ideal Overdrive mode will provide a balance of speed and accuracy. For the monitor above, the Normal OD mode is recommended since it provides near 4 ms average response time with 100% of transitions within the window and almost no overshoot.

    What about 1 ms?

    So does that mean 1 ms monitors are useless? Well, yes and no. In theory, a 1 ms monitor with no accuracy issues would provide a very clean image. At 144hz, it would be displaying a frame every 6.94 ms. This means it would be transitioning for 1 ms, and providing a static image for the remaining 5.94 ms. Compare that to a monitor that may need 5 ms to transition, where your eye would be viewing "in between" frames the majority of the time.

    The thing is, perfect 1 ms monitors don't really exist. The monitor discussed above is an IPS monitor that is advertised as 1 ms. And yet the 1 ms spec is only kinda-sorta achieved via the Extreme overdrive mode (to 1.72 ms G2G), which introduces very poor accuracy. I don't think that's a tradeoff many people would knowingly make.

    How to evaluate monitors?

    So instead of trusting manufacturer specs, understanding the differences in monitor types is a great place to start. It can help you weed out unrealistic figures. Generally speaking, TN monitors provide the fastest response times, then IPS, then VA. So if a VA monitor advertises 1ms response times, it's a safe bet that those are fudged in some way. (Yes, that is from a review for a VA monitor that advertises a 1ms peak response time and 4ms G2G, yet neither of those are achieved.)

    But the best way is to seek out expert reviews for the monitors you are considering. I've linked to both TechSpot / Hardware Unboxed and tftcentral in this guide, and they both provide great testing and commentary in their reviews. (If there are other sites / reviewers, please let me know!) Reviews that point to the advertised response times and state "this monitor has great response times" are almost worthless.

    Keep in mind that the exact monitor you are researching may not have a review from one of these sites. In this case, you may want to look up the LCD panel being used, and see if another monitor that uses the same panel has been reviewed. The results may not be 100% applicable (since each manufacturer uses a different overdrive implementation and other design differences) but it may give you an idea of the physical speed limitations of the panel itself.

    submitted by /u/DVNO
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    Which is far more important? 75Hz Monitor but with Free-sync or 144Hz but no Free-sync?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 03:04 AM PST

    I'm currently ordering a GTX 1660 Super and I have no more budget to buy a G-sync monitor. So it's either I cancel my GTX 1660 Super, save enough money and get a RX 5600 XT with a 75Hz monitor or go with my GTX 1660 Super and get a 144Hz monitor with no G-sync/Free-sync. A monitor with Sync technologies makes a huge difference in pricing in my country, a 1080p monitor with 75Hz with Free-sync is only has a $15-20 difference with a 144Hz monitor with no Sync technologies. Is Sync technologies even more important than Refresh rates?

    submitted by /u/RayneAstaroth
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    Dear all: Thank you for not being *Nasty*

    Posted: 07 Feb 2020 06:14 PM PST

    This is a communal "thank you".

    I made arrangements to trade some stuff I didn't need (which was brand new) for an older GPU for a computer I am building for my son. As this was a fairly low value transaction, we arranged for a porch pickup given our opposing schedules.

    When I got home, I started to look over the GPU. It was dirty, but no big deal. I knew it was used.

    I set it down.

    Then I saw the bugs. Plural.

    Everywhere.

    The heat sink was infested with baby roaches. The card went directly into the garbage. I shot him a message and he responded with "I thought I got them all."

    JFC.

    So cheers to everyone who takes care of their stuff, deals honestly, and demonstrates respect in transactions. I just wanted to say I've never appreciated it more than now.

    Pic of the HDMI port with resident. I did not have the presence of mind to take one as I was too busy stomping out the infestation on my back porch.

    Nasty GPU https://imgur.com/a/VOYq4Vv

    submitted by /u/annoyinglyanonymous
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    $250 Gaming PC Build 2020 with benchmarks (Using only Amazon)

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 11:59 AM PST

    Hello! I built this super low budget gaming PC with the following components. This was a really fun build, as I was trying to stay under $250, while also seeing how much performance I could get out of this system. ( I was eventually able to get PUBG to over 60 FPS @ 720p overclocked)

    CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 2200G Processor with Radeon Vega 8 Graphics

    MOBO: GIGABYTE GA-A320M-S2H

    SSD: Lexar NS100 2.5" SATA III (6GB/S) 128GB Solid-State Drive

    PSU: Apevia CAPTAIN470W ATX Power Supply with All Black Cables

    RAM: Patriot Signature Premium DDR4 8GB (2x4GB) 2666MHz

    CASE: ROSEWILL Micro ATX Mini Tower Computer Case (SRM-01)

    video of gaming benchmarks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9J5iYl6y5oM&feature=youtu.be

    submitted by /u/PhantomSpectre
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    Suggested replacement for broken GTX970?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 04:17 PM PST

    I have an old (~5yrs) PC that has a broken GTX970, i don't want to go the trouble and expense of rebuilding a new pc, this one runs the games I want to play fine (when the video isn't dying). I thought of buying a second hand 970 but they still seem quite expensive.

    Is there an affordable, current gen graphics card with similar performance to a 970?

    submitted by /u/jef79m
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    Power line vs Ethernet

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 08:03 AM PST

    When can we expect the next gen of CPU and GPUs?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 07:12 AM PST

    I'm planning to make a new build soon, earliest possible is middle of March.

    However I can extend to end of May if a new line of products is releasing between now and then. I believe AMD is one release away from adopting a new socket (AM4+? Am5?).

    But May is my absolute cap, so any lineup that comes after that is off the table.

    If nothing notable is getting released by May then I'll just make the new build ASAP.

    Thanks


    I know when it comes to tech, there is always something better around the corner.

    But I'm not asking if I should wait for an upcoming gen and then be locked in a perpetual state of waiting- I have a specific date range in mind.

    submitted by /u/Yelebear
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    Done my first build

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 06:41 AM PST

    pc

    EDIT: more photos

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type Item Price
    CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $174.99 @ Amazon
    CPU Cooler ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler $57.99 @ Amazon
    Motherboard MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard $114.99 @ B&H
    Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $73.99 @ Newegg
    Storage Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive -
    Video Card Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB GAMING OC PRO Video Card $389.99 @ Amazon
    Case Phanteks P300 ATX Mid Tower Case $59.99 @ Amazon
    Power Supply Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $73.98 @ Newegg
    Case Fan ARCTIC BioniX F120 (Black/Red) 69 CFM 120 mm Fan $12.99 @ Amazon
    Case Fan ARCTIC BioniX F120 (Black/Red) 69 CFM 120 mm Fan $12.99 @ Amazon
    Case Fan ARCTIC BioniX F120 (Black/Red) 69 CFM 120 mm Fan $12.99 @ Amazon
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total $984.89
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-08 09:40 EST-0500
    submitted by /u/weedebest
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    Are there any general diffrences between a 140 mm fan and a 120.

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 06:31 AM PST

    Basicly, does size matter?

    I'm thinking that if my case supports 140 it's worth to buy 140 mm fans instead of 120 mm.

    submitted by /u/usern00by
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    Need help! RAM stuck at 2133 even with XMP enabled!!

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 02:01 PM PST

    Hey guys so I recently created a build and it seems like my G skill trident z neo 3600 is stuck at 2133 even though I have already enabled xmp as show in the pic https://imgur.com/a/XKdNTQ2 not sure whats happening but hope you guys can help..

    My MOBO is an x570 Taichi version 2.70 (latest version I believe) and heres the exact ram I bought https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-Trident-288-Pin-3600mhZ-F4-3600C18D-16GTZN/dp/B07WGQZTKB

    Any help would be much appreciated! thank you!

    submitted by /u/xkristianx31
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    What should I look out for buying used parts?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 02:55 PM PST

    Hey lovely buildapc friends. So I'm trying to do a budget build for my younger brother who is currently recovering from heart surgery. Little man (he's 15 not so little) loves pc gaming and I gave him my hand-me down build that's going on 6 years now. I told him if he could save money I'd help him get a new pc but I want to surprise him with a new build and everything when he comes home to his set up. He loves playing CS:GO, Fortnite and Destiny 2 but would love to play newer AAA titles and even possibly cyberpunk when it comes out. With my old PC he can barely manage 30fps on fortnite at low settings and it makes me feel so bad. I don't want him coming home to that after surgery.

    As far as used parts what exactly should I be looking out for when it comes to major parts like GPU, CPU and MOBO. I'll buy new ram, PSU and he has old storage we can use. I want to make sure this new build won't die on him within the next few years or even months.

    submitted by /u/itsmrasian
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    Is my PC loud or am I being paranoid?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 12:08 AM PST

    Hiya. I recently built my new PC, everything seems to be fine except for the noise, even in idle. Here are the components that might be causing it.

    CASE : Zalman Z11 Plus. FANS : 3x Arctic F12 CPU COOLER : Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO.

    The case fans spin at around 500-600 RPM, the CPU fans spin at 900-1000 RPM, both when idling. Are these speeds normal? How loud are my fans supposed to be?

    They're all screwed in tight, btw.

    Thank you guys!

    submitted by /u/zLarth
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    Upgrading from gtx 1060. New RTX 2070 or refurbished 1080TI?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 01:58 PM PST

    So I'm looking to upgrade my gtx 1060 6gb next week and am looking at a refurbished gtx 1080ti Aero or a new RTX 2070 Windforce. Both going for $399.

    Is the RTX series more future proof or should I get the 1080? I have an i7 6700k and am planning to play 1440p 60fps on majority of games.

    submitted by /u/rangerxxll
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    First full build, and highest performance ever for me!

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 04:23 AM PST

    Nearly build ready

    Build Help/Ready:

    Have you read the sidebar and rules? (Please do)

    Yes

    What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.

    Mostly gaming with some CPU-bound problem solving and occasional video encoding.

    If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, framerate, game settings)

    I will eventually get a 1440p 144Hz monitor, and I want to play current games on ultra. I hope to also someday get VR.

    What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?

    $1400 or a little bit more. (just tower, already have peripherals)

    In what country are you purchasing your parts?

    US, with a Micro Center nearby.

    Post a draft of your potential build here (specific parts please). Consider formatting your parts list. Don't ask to be spoonfed a build (read the rules!).

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type Item Price
    CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor $159.99
    Motherboard Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard $149.99
    Memory Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $67.99
    Storage ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $149.99 @ Amazon
    Storage *Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $72.99 @ B&H
    Video Card *EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card $473.98 @ Newegg
    Case Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case $84.99 @ Amazon
    Power Supply Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $103.98 @ Newegg
    Case Fan Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140 mm Fan $21.95 @ Amazon
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total (before mail-in rebates) $1305.85
    Mail-in rebates -$20.00
    Total $1285.85
    *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-08 07:08 EST-0500

    Provide any additional details you wish below.

    I have X570 for future use of PCIe 4. I chose the WD black instead of blue because of the longer warranty, 5 years vs 2 years.

    I think the next possible upgrade is GPU, but 2080 SUPER is an extra $190. Worth it for VR or 144Hz? What about a Noctua NH-U14S for overclocking the CPU ($64)?

    Edit:

    Thank you!

    Went with the 2080 SUPER.

    submitted by /u/killm_good
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    Would a 2060 Super bottleneck with an i5-9400f?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 04:51 AM PST

    I was wondering if the GPU would be bottlenecking due to the CPU and by how much would it bottleneck? Thanks for the answer!

    submitted by /u/Bro696969
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    What happened!?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 09:33 AM PST

    information

    Trying to install ubunto from a flash drive (used rufus) and this comes up when I try to install it. Please help!

    submitted by /u/scrubs757
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    Thanks for all the help. Got my dream setup done! What do y'all think?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 01:00 PM PST

    Pictures of the setup

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type Item Price
    CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $174.99 @ Amazon
    CPU Cooler Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler $99.95 @ Amazon
    Motherboard Gigabyte X570 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard $219.00 @ B&H
    Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory $89.99 @ Amazon
    Storage Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $87.99 @ Amazon
    Storage ADATA XPG GAMMIX S5 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $139.99 @ Amazon
    Video Card EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card $473.98 @ Newegg
    Case NZXT H210 Mini ITX Tower Case $79.98 @ Amazon
    Power Supply Corsair SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply $149.47 @ Amazon
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total (before mail-in rebates) $1535.34
    Mail-in rebates -$20.00
    Total $1515.34
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-08 15:57 EST-0500
    submitted by /u/Jordan1719
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    I installed another stick of 8gb ram, but now my PC won't display on my monitor.

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 04:29 PM PST

    I bought 2 of these 8GB RAMs - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4FRMGV?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

    I was originally using just 1 stick, but I opted to add another 8gb. Now all of a sudden, my monitor will not display my PC.

    I am using a MSI A320M PRO-VH PLUS motherboard as well. I am also using an HDMI cable if that helps.

    submitted by /u/Melmoney1
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    Need a m2 nvme ssd 1TB for under €125

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 04:27 PM PST

    Which is the best one and why? https://nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/ Has to be on the dutch version of pc part picker. Thanks guys. Was thinking of a crucial p1

    submitted by /u/thesscarletmain
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    How does this look for $1500 budget? Any suggestions

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 02:45 AM PST

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type Item Price
    CPU Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $392.89 @ B&H
    CPU Cooler ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler $57.99 @ Amazon
    Motherboard MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $125.98 @ Amazon
    Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $72.98 @ Amazon
    Storage Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive $149.97 @ Amazon
    Video Card Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB DUAL EVO OC Video Card $489.99 @ Newegg
    Case NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case $69.98 @ Amazon
    Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $105.98 @ Newegg
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total (before mail-in rebates) $1485.76
    Mail-in rebates -$20.00
    Total $1465.76
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-08 05:37 EST-0500

    I haven't decided on a monitor yet, but I'm looking for a good deal on a 120hz or 144hz LCD or LED display.

    Any recommendations or suggestions are welcome! Thanks!

    submitted by /u/UnreliableRAM
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    Just put this together on pcpartpicker. I'm tyring to achieve 4k 60fps, will this do? Any suggestions?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 12:28 PM PST

    Here's the pcpartpicker build

    I'm a novice and this will be my first time putting a pc together. What do you think?

    submitted by /u/fartwithmypantsdown
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    Rx 5700 issue (and solution!?!)

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 08:40 AM PST

    So about a month ago, after many other builds for friends and relatives, I finally got to build my very own.

    Ι decided to go with a ryzen 7 2700x, a saphire Rx 5700 pulse and the ASRock b450m steel legend.

    What I quickly noticed is that it was running hotter than I expected idling and under heavy load and often reaching 85-90 (which as I read is common but it is still more than many reviews).

    What concerned me was that some games like metro Exodus, tomb raider etc were kinda lagging on high-ultra setting with big drops at times.

    Tweaking fan speeds, changing settings and various troubleshooting steps only made little difference.

    And here comes today. A friend of mine had a problem with his PC and brought me his gpu and ram to check if any of those were dead. I removed mine and installed his to see if it works(it did work) and then put mine back on.

    After the reinstallation of my gpu and running some games the difference with before was HUGE. Games run smoothly at every setting and the temps max at 60 at most. Same thing with previously run benchmarks that now complete with much lower temps.

    And the question is: wtf happened?? I doubt it was not installed correctly since it would have other issues. Nor could it be a driver's issue since 1: nothing changed with before and 2:the ssd was and is brand new. I started to thing that maybe it is a problem with the sensors but it is also noticeably less hot(touching the tempered glass etc).

    Any ideas as to what happened? Don't get me wrong, i don't complain, it is a more than welcome change but I really am curious.

    Thank you in advance.

    submitted by /u/Is_this_RealLife-_-
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    Issues with Fan visually working, yet 0 RPM in BIOS, as well as Corsair Cooler not displaying in ICUE

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 04:05 PM PST

    Hi guys. I know a similar post was made regarding someone's fans working, yet 0 RPM being displayed, but unless I tried his solution incorrectly, the solution to that person's issue did not end up helping me. Now onto the issues. So recently, I upgraded my processor from an i5 to an i7-8700 on an MSI z370 - A Pro. I went to check my processor temp after finishing, and noticed numbers in the nineties. I then went into the BIOS, to find that my fans (case fans and CPU fans) RPMs read 0, yet I could clearly see them moving, and could even set the CPU fan to full speed, and successfully hear it pick up speed. After this, I went i downloaded ICUE, and saw that my motherboard, gfx card, processor and RAM were all recognized by the software, but the cooler (Corsair h100i v2) was not anywhere to be found. I am unaware of if this issue was occurring while I had my i5 installed, unfortunately, as I never checked. I currently have my link cable from the cooler plugged into the JUSB1 slot another plug going into the CPU_Fan slot. I really hate to waste your guys time with a thread you've already seen before, but does anybody have any idea what's going on? Oh, also, I should mention that the LED on the pump is lit up when the PC turns on, and while in the CPU_Fan slot, the CPU fans start to rotate very quickly the longer the computer is on, probably because the computer believes the processor is heating up, since it reads the fa RPM at 0. Also, I don't currently have anything plugged into the pump_fan header, if that makes any difference. Again, I'm super sorry to waste your guy's time, but I'm pretty desperate and worried here. Thanks to anyone even trying to help out!

    EDIT:

    Oh also, I should mention that I have my CPU fan set to DC in the BiOS with smart fan on. IDK if that makes a difference, but I heard that if you have it plugged into the CPU_Fan header, then you should set it to DC as opposed to PWM

    submitted by /u/FeelsLonelyMyMan
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    Do I have to go under mobo to attach Asetek 645LT water cooler to AM4?

    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 04:03 PM PST

    I have an Asetek 645LT water cooler I am going to add to my AM4 socket with a Ryzen 7.

    I have ordered the needed retention kit and while waiting for it to arrive I looked at the instructions online for its installation -- http://glob3trotters.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/asetek_11.png

    I am confused. I know this retention kit uses the standard backplate that ships with AM4 motherboards, but am I still going to have to go underneath the motherboard to install the standoffs into the backplate?

    Thanks for your help.

    submitted by /u/UpInTheMarbles
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