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    Saturday, September 1, 2018

    How to setup a school email without allowing them to manage my phone? Tech Support

    How to setup a school email without allowing them to manage my phone? Tech Support


    How to setup a school email without allowing them to manage my phone?

    Posted: 31 Aug 2018 05:02 PM PDT

    I want to receive school emails on my phone, but I don't want the school to be able to manage my phone. I ran into this issue when I used my school email for my chromebook (I don't remember why), and now I have limited capabilities on it, such as not being able use the play store on it without losing all my data and creating a new account. If I set it up on my Samsung Galaxy S8, will I have similar issues? Why does an email allow someone to manage your account anyway? It is incredibly inconvenient for the average user.

    submitted by /u/whoamreally
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    Buzzing from Speakers when System Volume above 54

    Posted: 31 Aug 2018 11:40 PM PDT

    hello, whenever i turn my system volume above 54 my speakers start to buzz, no matter what volume I have the speakers or itunes set at

    my speaker cables aren't touching my psu cable or anything like that, they are plugged into a multi power board thing along with the rest of my computer

    I'm not sure what's going on, I havnt been able to find an answer on google so I come here

    Logitech Z506 speakers
    gigabyte z270 HD3 mobo
    win 10

    submitted by /u/numbxskull
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    Getting rid of school site block

    Posted: 31 Aug 2018 08:49 PM PDT

    A friend of mine has a school laptop he said they let him keep, but they never removed the site block. How can he get rid of it?

    submitted by /u/JackHazardous
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    Help with dual monitors

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 02:14 AM PDT

    Hi, i just got my new monitor, its a 24" Curved samsung monitor, my secondary is my old HP 22vx, im using a GTX 770 and it only has 1 HDMI port and a DVI port, if i got a DVI to HDMI would this work? seen a few post stating this would just give an extended display? thanks in advance.

    submitted by /u/tchami_rs
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    My PC broke after 5 years of use and my uni studies begin in 2 days. I need help if I can fix my PC since I can currently only afford a used laptop.

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:20 AM PDT

    So... I really need someones help RN. I have a prebuilt ASUS CG8250 Essentio PC from 2013. I can look out the specs if needed but basically the computer won't boot past the ASUS logo screen and I hear something clicking/ turning off when the ASUS loading screen disappears and it's followed by a grey screen. The CPU fan speeds up to a high speed and GPU+PSU fans are still on but something in the PC has turned off. The clicking sound is the same when the PC is shut down. I don't know if it is something to do with the motherboard or if it is the harddrive shutting off.

    This started when I was playing Sims 4 and watching netflix at the same time and my PC just froze and booted staying on a grey screen with CPU fans on full speed. This happened a couple times more when on normal use during the next few days but then I couldn't just boot anymore. First I thought I had fried my CPU or GPU but that doesn't seeeeem to be the case.

    Sometimes when I try to boot it tries to "repair" windows but I always get a "Automatic repair couldn't repair your PC" message. And then when I go on the repair menu and try to for example reinstall windows or wipe files, the process always gets stuck on the part where it is again preparing windows for use and starts to restart the PC multiple times.

    Also, I am able to boot in safe mode. There I get this weird error: here I have tried everything, including cleaning the inside off dust and replugging the RAM, but nothing seems to work. I don't know if it is in the hardware of software but I REALLY need someones help.

    submitted by /u/FilthyWhale
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    Headphone mic not working in Windows 10

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:03 AM PDT

    Hi, I am using a pair of headphones with a built in mic. They work fine on my xbox and my other windows 10 laptop. When I use them on my new laptop with windows 10, I can hear out of them but the mic doesn't work. The mic being used is the built in laptop mic instead of the headset mic. When I go to recording devices there is Microphone Array (Realtek HD Audio) which is the laptop mic and it's the default mic. When I plug in the headset nothing else pops up, but nothing does on my other windows 10 laptop. It just uses the headset mic for the default mic, but my new laptop won't do it. Also, only have one jack on laptop. Old laptop has 2, and the mic works when the headphones are plugged in to the headphone jack.

    submitted by /u/jumphopglide
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    Pagefile.sys corrupt can I download it back.

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:02 AM PDT

    Now I know it wont be as easy it is a pagefile and when I add it back I will have to adjust setting or problems arise. When I run SFC it says there is anothe pending repair and when I enter dism.exe /image:C:\ /cleanup-image /revertpendingactions doesn't work. It only became corrupted 2 days ago. So can I just download it back?
    Just for referance I am in the middle between intermediatte and advanced when it comes to computers.

    submitted by /u/PCG_YT
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    How to fix HOT TEMPERATURES ON MY LAPTOP WHILE GAMING

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 02:32 AM PDT

    ACER ASPIRE E15 576G INTEL I5 8TH GEN 8250U MX150 2TB 8GB 1600MHZ

    I bought this i think 4months ago and First I noticed a very uncomfortable heat on the palm rest whenever I am gaming so I downloaded Msi after burner to know the temps of my cpu then i notice that it gets 97°c at max when i am gaming I have done so many things to fix this issue yet nothing solve my problem here are some -i downloaded throttle stop and undervolt it -i updated all the drivers and repair it -i updated the graphics card -i put a cooling pad -i change the maximim processor state from 100% to 99% -i also undervolted my gpu With all the things ive did i never solve the thermal issue of my laptop so pleaseee i really neeed help to fix this issueee.

    submitted by /u/RAVZEE
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    Using a crap psu - potential dangers?

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 02:19 AM PDT

    hello all,

    i was wondering if there are any potential dangers of using a cheap crappy psu (a shaw evo 685 for reference [685 not watts, another redditor calculated this for me and concluded around 313w] ) aside from the psu failing on its own.

    Edit: i'm going to buy another soon, but i'm not using the pc because im scared to even turn it on now. will it do damage to the parts?

    I have:

    ryzen 3 2200g

    rx570

    1x8 ddr4 2400mhz ram

    stock cooler

    1tb 7200rpm hdd

    VDH-PRO B450 mobo

    submitted by /u/Juno_69420
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    How do I diagnose the cause of packet loss?

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 01:24 AM PDT

    When playing Dota 2 I notice these days that I always have a small amount of packet loss, sometimes it spikes.

    Currently it's really bad, unplayable (packet loss of ~90).

    I'm connected to my router via ethernet.

    I've downloaded WinMTR to help but don't really know what I'm doing. It's confirming that there is packet loss to 6/8 of the addresses listed when I ping google.com or 8.8.8.8.

    What could cause this?

    submitted by /u/noodlesfordaddy
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    Tearing in my game after enabling Windows 10 game mode.

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 12:28 AM PDT

    Apologies in advance for the long read but I want you to have the full picture. About 2 weeks ago I bought my first HD monitor and hauled my desktop out of storage to play Battle for Azeroth and fired it up for the first time in a year. It did all the big windows updates and I updated everything else. I installed BfA and everything has been going well. Better than well, in fact. I noticed that that my FPS was unlocked and I was getting up to 100+ fps with no tearing on the screen, even though v-sync was disabled In-game. My knowledge on computers is average at best so I just figured it had something to do with my new monitor and proceeded to enjoy my new game with the best performance I've ever seen. Until today. I read somewhere about the new game mode feature in windows 10, so, curious, I went to my settings, enabled Game Bar and logged in to WoW. After logging in, I hit windows key + G, and saw game mode was disabled so I enabled it and closed the bar. Immediately I could notice severe tearing all over the place, my FPS seemingly unaffected.

    Since this happened, I've tried everything I could think of. I've disabled / re-enabled game mode, I've restarted the PC in between doing that, I've disabled game bar completely, I've completely reset In-game graphics configuration by deleting the appropriate folder from the game files, I've also tried disabling full screen optimization from the compatibility tab of the game.

    Now I'm stuck with either horrible tearing or noticeably hampered performance by enabling v-sync.

    Is there anything I can do to get WoW to run like it did before?

    I'm using a GeForce GTX750ti, let me know if more specs are needed

    Thanks for taking the time to read.

    Have a great weekend!

    submitted by /u/Pork_Piggler
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    4 monitors on a GTX 1050 Ti

    Posted: 31 Aug 2018 06:30 PM PDT

    Hello all,

    I can't figure out my graphics card. I have an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti that has 3 ports(DVI, HDMI and DP), which are currently all in use. However, when I scan the ports from the terminal, I get 4 ports with a secondary display port appearing as disconnected(see bellow). Does this mean I can somehow use 4 monitors with this card? if so, then how can I do it? is there a port that has not been physically soldered to the card's main board?

    Here's the terminal output:

    [wxsabi@MacPro ~]$ xrandr Screen 0: minimum 8 x 8, current 4840 x 2560, maximum 32767 x 32767 DVI-D-0 connected 1200x1600+0+497 left (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 367mm x 275mm 1600x1200 60.00*+ 1280x1024 75.02 60.02 1152x864 75.00 1024x768 75.03 60.00 800x600 75.00 60.32 640x480 75.00 59.94 HDMI-0 connected 1080x2560+3760+0 right (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 798mm x 334mm 2560x1080 60.00*+ 1920x1080 60.00 59.94 50.00 29.97 60.05 60.00 50.04 1680x1050 59.95 1600x900 60.00 1280x1024 75.02 60.02 1280x720 60.00 59.94 50.00 1152x864 75.00 1024x768 75.03 60.00 800x600 75.00 60.32 720x576 50.00 720x480 59.94 640x480 75.00 59.94 59.93 DP-0 connected primary 2560x1440+1200+866 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 597mm x 336mm 2560x1440 59.95*+ 1920x1200 59.88 1920x1080 60.00 59.94 50.00 23.98 1680x1050 59.95 1600x1200 60.00 1280x1024 75.02 60.02 1280x800 59.81 1280x720 60.00 59.94 50.00 1152x864 75.00 1024x768 75.03 60.00 800x600 75.00 60.32 720x576 50.00 720x480 59.94 640x480 75.00 59.94 59.93 DP-1 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 

    Any insight will be appreciated :-)

    submitted by /u/wxsabi
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    Automatically synced Microsoft account in Netherlands

    Posted: 31 Aug 2018 10:12 PM PDT

    Hey guys,

    so I am from Portugal and I've received an email and a text message from Microsoft warning that someone might have accessed my e-mail account somewhere else. I found on the recent activity page that my account has been automatically synced to someone/something in Netherlands. I've read a lot about this and changed my password and I've also enable 2FA. I've checked on https://haveibeenpwned.com and my email got "leaked" 3 times, but my password hasn't, which is weird. So now that I've changed my password, how do I know if this sync will keep going on or if it has been stopped?

    submitted by /u/transfxrmation
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    Audio and Video getting out of sync gradually in every video I watch

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 04:00 AM PDT

    Hi everyone, I'm having this problem on my new laptop (Asus GL503v).

    Whenever I watch any type of video the audio slowly gets out of sync.

    If it's a video file I'm playing on vlc pausing and playing again usually solves the problem but I have to do that every 5 minutes.

    If I'm watching a youtube video or netflix I have to refresh the whole page.

    Do you guys have any suggestion?

    submitted by /u/Alessiolo
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    Laptop screen is dull and changing brightness makes no difference.

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:44 AM PDT

    I've got a pretty ageing laptop that is having some screen problems. The screen is dull and almost impossible to read text on unless the charger is plugged in or I press my thumbs in to two points at the bottom of the screen.

    For some reason, I cannot adjust brightness with the keyboard keys which might be related. The brightness however can be adjusted in display settings but moving the points between 1% & 100% changes nothing.

    I can push my thumbs hard against two points at the bottom of the screen and get full brightness again makes me think something inside has become loose maybe? I would be happy to attempt to replace them but no idea what the loose bits could be.

    Also around images on websites I am getting some sort of grainy effect. Hard to get a picture of but here around the edges of the laptop image. https://imgur.com/a/FjPy2ID

    The laptop is the Samsung Series 3 Notebook

    submitted by /u/Spud_Muncher
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    Unable to connect to 5GHz on 3 computers, but could previously. (Xbox+phone can connect)

    Posted: 31 Aug 2018 11:54 PM PDT

    I have a ASUS DSL-AC52U Modem using iiNet NBN and on 3 seperate computers I cannot connect to the 5GHz network, all 3 computers can only find the 2.4GHz network.

    -All phones and Xbox's in the house can find and connect to the 5GHz network.

    -The modem was replaced (same model) as the previous modem stopped connecting to anything, so all 3 computers were previously connected to the 5GHz network.

    -I have tried turning modem/computers off and on, reset modems several times.

    -I have tried the firmware version that was already on it, and also the latest firmware version through ASUS' website

    -Network adapters suit 5GHz (was connected through previous modem) and enabled.

    Anyone have any ideas?

    submitted by /u/hau5-
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    Bought secondhand PC from a school - trying to reinstall windows 7

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:38 AM PDT

    (TL;DR at bottom :) Not super long though )

    I've been searching for an answer for this for a couple hours and would like another opinion/suggestion/fix on this before I give up and cry/save up to buy Windows 10..

    We have a PC that was bought secondhand from a school a few years back. I was trying to work out why the computer was running so poorly and it turns out it was running on 32bit on a 64bit processor + was an older version of windows 7 + other hardware things being set up weirdly (just general updates and system settings, nothing too major).

    From what I understand, to install the 64bit version of Windows 7 I have to do a custom install. This is where my tech nightmare begins...

    Having brought the computer from a school, I learned (after wasting like 2 hours ugh) that every possibly way through Microsoft's support results in the "software licensed through Enterprise" error (screenshot) and as far as I can see, I can't custom install Windows 7 at all. Am I correct in assuming this??

    Am I able to contact the school that it was bought from and have them remove the key as associated with their enterprise, or is that not an option? Sorry if this sounds dumb, I don't really know much about Windows in terms of the licensing system.

    I figured that I'd ask a really wide audience, seeing as it's a pretty weird problem. I'd never come across a computer that'd been bought from a school until I met my SO haha.

    Is my only option paying for a copy Windows 10?

    We barely use this computer, it's probably going to be played around with and sold after we fix the stuff I was talking about at the start. Upgrading the whole thing would be kind of useless seeing as none of the main computer bits are really anything special - it's just a fairly average computer.

    TL;DR: Can't reinstall Windows 7 because Microsoft won't give the download file to an Enterprise-registered computer.

    submitted by /u/Nethartic
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    Can I Use WD 2TB Purple (Survilleance) HDD For Gaming Purpose ? Can It Be Used For 8-10 Hours A Day ? If Not, Which HDD Is Best For Gaming ?

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:30 AM PDT

    Could someone recommend a good converted for making .ppt files into .pdf?

    Posted: 31 Aug 2018 09:32 PM PDT

    My university notes are posted as .ppt files. I don't have Powerpoint. Is there a reputable program for converting these files to .pdf? I see a few when I do a google search but I'm not sure which ones to trust.

    submitted by /u/ShitInMyCunt-2dollar
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    Help me out ! Am I right thinking my mobo is dead?

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:15 AM PDT

    Hello dear edditors, As mentionned in the title I built a computer recently and i'm not sure where the problem is coming from. As for now, psu and cpu fan turns on, mobo rgb turn on and only the ez debug CPU led is on. No display, nothing else. As for before, when installing, i had trouble making the ram work. The 2400mhz has its cadency reduced but I don't thing this is the problem. Only one stick would work at a time, sometime the first one sometimes the second and the second ram slot would often fail and then this is when the weird part comes in. When i put in the two sticks of ram, the mobo would turn on and off again and on and off and so on or the ez debug leds would switch between CPU and DRAM. Eventually, after repasting the cpu, reslotting it and the ram sticks, plugging off and plugging in both the power cables it started working. I tried and intalled nighly (the beta firefox), then some mobo drivers. At this point, i thought okay well it'w working now and i plugged in the gpu, installed the drivers and everything was fine. After a few hours of installing programs and drivers and stuff, it was time to remove everything from my test bench and install it in my case. I removed the stock cooler and installed the NH-9stuff from Noctua, tried turning on everything again and nothing worked, i had the led switching. I started getting worried, installed the stock cooler again and it worked so i thought that i didn't install the cpu or cooler correctly, did it again with the new cooler and it didn't work. Again. This is where i'm at.

    The cpu is probably fine, i biught it used and it worked when i tested it and it worked in my computer. I don't remember cpus stopping working all of the sudden but okay. When I intalled the new cooler, i only had the cpu led on, and this is where i'm at now. I contacted the mobo vendors that I bought new and am waiting for instuctions or feedback but still wanted to know from you guys. And the mobo switching on and off again is somewhere in the middle when the ram didn't want to work.

    Here is my part list, I bought the CPU, RAM, GPU used, the SSD of amazon warehouse and everything else is new but my PSU I had in my previus build. Also, I did cut some wires from my psu for redneck cable managment, but each single cable is isolated with tape and I honeslty thing the problem is not from there, since i could use my computer for a good two hours without it turning off.

    I should also say that I did have some trouble with the power button on my case, probably not from the mobo but it still may be the pins on the mobo because when I used the reset button on the power pins it still didn't turn on. I could only use the reset button on the reset pins to turn on the computer.

    I'm sorry for all the errors, english is not my native language and my corrector underlines every english word, making me impossible to proof read the text. Let me know if you have any questions, or if you need additionnal information. I used cooler master mastergel maker thermal paste at first and then switched to noctua NT H1 after a few cooler change.

    This is my part list.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Type Item Price
    CPU Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor €66.35 @ Amazon France
    CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-L9i 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler €39.90 @ Amazon France
    Motherboard MSI - H270I GAMING PRO AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard €132.30 @ Amazon France
    Memory G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory €125.22 @ Amazon France
    Memory G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory €125.22 @ Amazon France
    Storage Intel - 600p Series 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive €107.18 @ Amazon France
    Video Card Zotac - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Mini Video Card €289.90 @ Amazon France
    Case Silverstone - Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case -
    Power Supply FSP Group - 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply -
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total €886.07
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-08-31 19:57 CEST+0200

    tl;dr : mobo leds switching between CPU and DRAM then mobo turning on and off and on and off and so on and now only the CPU ram is on.

    submitted by /u/DryAioli
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    One of my PCs is causing my internet to slow down and eventually stop working completely... even when it's not connected to the internet.

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:10 AM PDT

    Alright guys, this is a weird one. A few days ago my internet started having some major issues, slowing down to a crawl (<1mbps whereas it's usually ~10) for about 10 mins or so before cutting off completely. At first I thought it was an issue with my ISP and got in touch with them, but they informed me there was no issue on their end and even sent an engineer over, who couldn't find any issues on my end. I even tried swapping to my old router (BT homehub 5, currently using a BT smarthub) to no effect. I was quite stumped at this point, but eventually noticed a pattern with the disconnects, namely that the internet would hold out until I got on my main PC, and it would consistently cut off shortly afterwards.

    Based on this I did a bit of testing. I pulled up a speed testing website on my phone and tested my speed with my main PC off, and it was normal. When I turned the PC on, the speed dropped significantly as soon as I reached the user login screen (Windows 7 64 bit btw). At this point I figured it must be some sort of networking conflict or maybe a virus. This particular PC doesn't have wifi capabilities, but is instead connected via ethernet cable (which plugs into the motherboard, an ASUS z170) to a devolo dlan 1200+ powerline adapter which plugs into a power socket. Here's where things got interesting though, the problem persists even after I unplug the ethernet cable. That is to say, I unplug the ethernet cable entirely from both the PC and the adapter, the PC has absolutely no internet connection, and yet when it's off the internet works fine, but as soon as it hits the user login screen my internet speed tanks and then after a few minutes cuts off completely for the whole house.

    At this point I was thoroughly confused. To make matters even more confusing, booting in safe mode even with networking enabled did not produce this issue, and I can use the internet normally. How is any of this even possible? Could a virus do this? I'm completely lost at this point, I have no idea how this PC can be affecting the speed of a network it's not even connected to, yet work perfectly normally while connected in safe mode. At this point I'm considering a fresh Windows install, which would mean upgrading to Windows 10, but thought I'd see if anyone had any other ideas before I shell out the money.

    To cover some other bases, this PC has worked normally with no network issues for several years, and I made no major changes to the network setup or the PC in question recently, no new programs installed, hardware, etc..., if there's any other info you guys think might be useful let me know I'm happy to provide it.

    Thanks for any insight.

    submitted by /u/TooLateRunning
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    Hey. My laptop has probably a problem with its battery. I plug in the charger and it says connected, but not charging. So its most probably batteries fault. The worrissome part though is that my laptop has become extremely slow with or without the battery inserted.

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:09 AM PDT

    Initially, i thought the problem was with the charger but it turns out the battery is problematic. Everytime i plug in the charger a message saying the ac is not recognized is popping up. The laptop though is lagging a lot. Is it overheating? Is it normal? Perhaps there is another problem? Btw, some days ago, i downloaded some shitty files(before the lagging), and i got malware, which i promptly deleted. There are none now. Can the battery be malfunctioning because of them (improbable but who knows?) Thank you in advance.

    submitted by /u/nick_mariostories
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    What's the go-to small CPU heatsink?

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 03:08 AM PDT

    My PC is built inside a small mid-tower, so the go-to big Hyper 212 Evo, with 159 milimeter height is a no-go. I have, I think, 136 milimeters, which is the size of the one I have now. I can't seem to find decent heatsinks on that size that are not on "stock crappy intel cooler" cooling levels. What is your go-to for these things?

    submitted by /u/ivanol55
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    SSD Cloning Question

    Posted: 31 Aug 2018 11:19 PM PDT

    Hi,

    Ultimately what im trying to accomplish is swapping a new ssd into my gaming pc for one of the two that are already in there. So the new ssd (ssd 1) is going in, (ssd 2) the ssd with all my os and software stuff, and (ssd 3) an ssd with some games aprox. 100gb.

    I want to take (ssd 2 - 250gb - 250 used) clone to (ssd 3 - 500gb - 100 used) but is it possible without losing the data already on ssd 3? Id then like to take ssd 2, wipe it clean, clone my mac hdd to ssd 2 and then install ssd 2 in my mac and my new ssd, (ssd 1) into my pc.

    ​My questions:

    a) will i lose the data already on ssd 3 after cloning ssd 2 to it?

    b) will i have any problems taking ssd 2 out of a windows 10 os machine wiping it and then cloning my hdd from mac to ssd 2?

    Thanks

    submitted by /u/RightfullyClapped
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    How to repair Windows 10 on SSD from Windows 10 on HDD?

    Posted: 01 Sep 2018 02:59 AM PDT

    I had Windows 10 installed on a HDD it began to run slow so I decided to buy a SSD and fresh installed Windows 10.

    It has worked fine for over a year until today when I arrived home I was greeted with a blue screen which said Automatic repair could not repair your PC.

    I have run the chkdsk /r command from CMD in automatic repair advanced options. No errors.

    Also tried bootrec.exe /rebuildbcd

    bootrec.exe /fixmbr

    bootrec.exe /fixboot

    Still haven't resolved the problem.

    My last option was to change the boot drive to the old HDD which I can access.

    Is there any way I can repair Windows on the SSD from Windows on the HDD without loosing an apps or settings.

    submitted by /u/darrenrennie96
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