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    Monday, July 2, 2018

    Simple Questions - July 02, 2018

    Simple Questions - July 02, 2018


    Simple Questions - July 02, 2018

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 05:18 AM PDT

    This thread is for simple questions that don't warrant their own thread (although we strongly suggest checking the sidebar and the wiki before posting!). Please don't post involved questions that are better suited to a [Build Help], [Build Ready] or [Build Complete] post. Examples of questions:

    • Is this RAM compatible with my motherboard?
    • I'm thinking of getting a GTX 1070. Which one should I get?
    • I'm on a very tight budget and I'm looking for a case < $50

    Remember that Discord is great places to ask quick questions as well: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/wiki/livechat

    Important: Downvotes are strongly discouraged in this thread. Sorting by new is strongly encouraged.

    Have a question about the subreddit or otherwise for /r/buildapc mods? We welcome your mod mail!

    Looking for all the Simple Questions threads? Want an easy way to locate today's thread? This link is now in the sidebar below the yellow Rules section.

    submitted by /u/AutoModerator
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    Bitfender Anti Virus

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 03:10 AM PDT

    Is Bitfender a decent antivirus? are there any downsides to it at all? If it is bad what should i use instead?

    submitted by /u/Fynn749
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    Is G-Sync worth it?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 01:25 PM PDT

    I'll be building with GTX 1080, i7-8700k and some flavor of 1440p 144hz monitor.

    I'll play single player games, nothing competitive, at Ultra (think Witcher, Fallout, etc).

    Will G-Sync really make a difference in this scenario? I can afford it, but I don't want to give money if it'll be useless.

    submitted by /u/pmitov
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    2018 budget gaming

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 04:51 AM PDT

    1080p, 60fps gaming, choosing amd rx 580 to work with cheap freesync monitor. Should I settle for ryzen 5 1400, or even less and upgrade in several years, or does it make sense to choose i5 8400 with an intention of keeping it for 6 or more years? Is 550w enough for efficiency? Is compatibility alright? Edit: Btw I'm located in Lithuania, I just use Germany in pcpartpicker, to see prices in Euros.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Type Item Price
    CPU Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor €164.90 @ Caseking
    Motherboard Gigabyte - H370 HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard €106.14 @ Mindfactory
    Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory €183.97 @ Amazon Deutschland
    Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive -
    Storage Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive €51.55 @ Amazon Deutschland
    Storage Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive €51.55 @ Amazon Deutschland
    Video Card Sapphire - Radeon RX 580 4GB NITRO+ Video Card €300.11 @ Amazon Deutschland
    Case Corsair - Carbide SPEC-04 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case €49.99 @ Amazon Deutschland
    Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply €93.69 @ Alza
    Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit -
    Monitor AOC - G2460VQ6 24.0" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor €135.89 @ Amazon Deutschland
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total €1137.79
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-02 13:34 CEST+0200

    Ignore the prices, I used pcpartpicker just for posting convenience. I'll be buying the components elsewhere and the prices will differ greatly.

    Edit: forgot to mention, I've already bought the SSD (for 60eu)

    Edit: many people pointing out this isn't a budget build, fair enough. To elaborate on my plans for this build- I'm building it without GPU, hdd, keeping my old monitor for now. Then saving some more for a decent GPU and upgrading over time. The reason for this is to get a CPU that would serve me well for many years to come. I'm still wondering, though, if I'd be better off just buying an actual budget build.

    submitted by /u/jackhref
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    Desktop CPUs never go below 100% clockspeed?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 05:30 AM PDT

    I noticed the clockspeed jumping up and down depending on load on my tablet with its i7-6650u. It goes from 22% at idle to 150% under load with turbo boost.

    The desktop CPUs I have (i7-870 and i7-8700k) sit at 100% clockspeed at idle. It seems kinda pointless to me? Doesnt this just waste power and generate heat?

    Is this limited to Windows or i7 Desktop CPUs?

    I used Windows Resource Monitor to check clockspeeds.

    submitted by /u/MellowFellow69
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    Think I may have broken my build?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 07:48 AM PDT

    Hey guys, cleaned my pc yesterday by vacuuming, wasn't rough with it or anything but now it won't boot up.

    My graphics card fans are not starting, see video:https://youtu.be/5CvD2fcOo4U

    Getting no display out to my monitor anymore from either this graphics card or a different 6950 I've tried. No idea what I messed up. No sounds on boot.

    Also, half the time I start my computer the CPU fans aren't starting but after restarting they'll work, don't know if it was doing this before I cleaned it or not.

    submitted by /u/NickVsYou
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    Need some advice on a certain GTX 1070 TI that is on sale

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 10:10 AM PDT

    What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.

    I will be using it for collegework and also 1440p 60 Hz gaming on high/ultra settings

    In what country are you purchasing your parts?

    The Netherlands

    Question

    I have been contemplating between getting a gtx 1070 or a gtx 1070 ti. Unfortunatly the gtx 1080's are out of my budget as the cheapest one costs around the 550 euros. Recently the INNO3D iChiLL GeForce GTX 1070 Ti X3 V2 has gone on sale for 429 euros making it a very tempting offer. It's my first time building a PC and I havent heard of this brand before. Is this a good deal?

    I looked up some reviews and the card seems to be louder than the others while also having a less good cooler for the higher price range gtx 1070 ti's. To have a better idea of the GPU market prices in The Netherlands see here a MSI GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G and a MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Ti GAMING 8G.

    Should I go for the GPU that is on sale, it is considerably cheaper than the others, what are your thoughts? The pricing of GTX 1070's and TI's seems to be very close to each other in general.

    EDIT: Decided to go ahead and buy the 1070ti thats on sale, thank you everyone for your input!

    submitted by /u/namso96
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    Killed my graphics card by reapplying the thermal paste, whelp

    Posted: 01 Jul 2018 10:47 PM PDT

    I have a EVGA GTX 780ti reference editionproof. It ran nicely but heated up quite a bit (80degree C). So I thought of reapplying its thermal paste. I cleaned with a perfume because I didn't have any isopropyl alcohol on hand. After rescrewing and reseating the gfx, it wouldn't boot and the graphics card would give a loud beep with the lights on the graphics on off with the beep. I read in the EVGA manual that this means that the bios of GPU couldn't be initialised. I also have a XFX R9 280x and it still works perfectly. I am currently sad that I killed a perfectly good graphics card. Is there anything to troubleshoot?

    Edit- I add proof so that people don't think that I am trolling and maybe someone has a good solution

    submitted by /u/Bhoot1234567890
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    Is this PSU enough for my PC?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 09:44 AM PDT

    So I'm about to build my first PC ever, and I'm pretty sure everything is alright. What I'm worrying about though is the power supply as I've heard some pretty scary stories of underpowered power supplies. So I would be thankful if any of you can tell me or a corsair cx550m is enough for these parts:

    Asus ROG Strix b350-f Gaming 2x8 GB G.Skill trident z RGB Ram AMD Ryzen 5 1400 (stock cooler, might upgrade later for overclocking) Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1050 Ti G1 Gaming 4G Intel 545s SSD\ Seagate barracuda 2TB 7.2k RPM NZXT Hue+

    Hopefully I noted everything needed to calculate this. I did use Coolermasters calculator but I'm just super unsure.

    submitted by /u/SpekPants
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    Bought a NEW i9-7960X on Amazon, received a USED (and dead) CPU instead.

    Posted: 01 Jul 2018 10:13 PM PDT

    TLDR;

    People are purchasing CPU's from Amazon, putting duds back in the box, and sending them back as unopened. Amazon restocks it as new, and when you buy the same CPU and Amazon ships it to you, guess what you get? I'll give you a hint - not a new CPU. At least, this is what happened to me.

    UPDATE: It's a fake! It's a heat spreader glued to a convincing circuit board. See pics.

    UPDATE: Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WK41l-PJn4

    Pics here: https://imgur.com/a/jvLKbuD

    1. ALWAYS check the CPU Serial number against the one on the box before opening & installing.
    2. Has anyone received a used CPU from Amazon when they purchased one "new"?
    3. EVGA support is amazing - they answered my call with a competent native-English speaking rep at 3AM. /EDIT - for clarity

    Now, for the record, I love Amazon, and still do, however I will NOT be buying another valuable / popular computer component from them again, at least until I'm sure this issue is resolved.

    My 5960X was already feeling a little old when Spectre knocked the wind out of it. I picked up a 7960X and an X299 Dark from Amazon. When I first opened the CPU plastic, I noticed residue on the CPU lid. Definitely old thermal paste. I was suspicious, but this was from AMAZON, after all. "Maybe Intel burns them in?", I thought to myself. So I grabbed my razor blade and chemicals and polished the lid like-new.

    This was a pretty big investment for me - this was replacing my main PC so I had to gut my entire machine before installing the new hardware. Three solid hours into my open-case surgery, I was ready to revive the patient. You know that moment when you're done with a PC build, and you're ready to hit that button? In a split second, you worry it won't work, you remind yourself that you did everything right, and you press the button. Time moves slowly as you await that BIOS beep letting you know everything' s OKAY. "Please work," you think to yourself, eager to celebrate and begin a fresh install. And then the worst happened. No beep. No POST codes. Nothing.

    I went through the normal process of reseating the RAM, reseating the power, clearing BIOS, removing all but 1 DIMM, etc etc, and nothing. In 20 years of PC building I've never had a motherboard refuse to even give a POST error code. So at 2:30 AM EST, I called EVGA support, AND SOMEONE PICKED UP. SPEAKING ENGLISH! I explained the problem, and my suspicion of the CPU, and he was totally cool, telling me, "If the CPU was bad, the board should still throw a C error code. Looks like you got a DOA board. I can RMA it for you, but to be honest Amazon will probably do it faster."

    Feeling frustrated, I did some googling and came across this article:

    https://wccftech.com/amd-ryzen-rma-fraud-on-amazon/

    So I quickly checked the Serial on the lid against the box and they were different!

    I filed the return with Amazon and ran out to Microcenter to get a replacement. Kudos to Amazon making that easy. I pulled the chip from my 299 dark and compared them, and even noticed scorch marks on the chip from Amazon. Clearly, this chip had been overvolted into oblivion.

    So yeah, buyers beware, not just from Amazon, but esepcially from Amazon, because it doesn't look as though they're checking for RMA fraud on returns like they should...

    /EDIT: Also interesting - the markings on the lid of the faulty CPU were in ink. Doesn't Intel laser-engrave all the lids? The one from MicroCenter seems to be.... also the discoloration between the pads is pretty significant. Maybe the gold was stripped from it as well?

    /EDIT: Grammar / clarity

    /EDIT: @DZCreeper suggested it's probably a fake, since the markings on the chip are clearly black ink. Seems like a smoking gun to me. That makes me think that the scorch marks on the pads aren't from overclocking, but from MY X299 board shorting-out with the fake installed :( All the more reason to check these parts before putting them in!

    submitted by /u/SagansCandle
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    I pulled out my Ryzen 5 CPU and did not need to use the motherboard socket lever. Did I ruin something?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 06:09 AM PDT

    I had some issues a couple of weeks ago, posted here. After testing every component, I can only assume it's a bad motherboard or CPU.

    I RMA'd my mobo and so I had to remove the CPU. The socket is AM4 (pins on the CPU) and I use the stock Ryzen cpu cooler. After unscrewing the cooler and trying to get it off, the cooler and the CPU just popped out (with some minor resistance). Apparently the CPU socket lever does not lock the CPU into the socket.

    If I look at the lever mechanism, all it does is just move the plastic socket covering to the side, so it's not aligned with the actual pin holes. I'm actually confused as to what this socket lever is for as it doesn't lock anything down at all.

    Anyway, I checked the CPU pins and they all look perfectly straight. Did a mess something up, or will I just being able to reinstall the CPU and cooler assembly as is when I get the repaired mobo back? I'll have to insert it with the socket lever "locked" unless I first remove the cooler and install that separately (I'd like to avoid that as I HATE putting on thermal paste; I get paranoid I put too much or not enough on).

    Parts:

    ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F GAMING AM4

    AMD RYZEN 5 1600

    submitted by /u/jktstance
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    Building a pc, wont boot with ssd

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 01:04 PM PDT

    Troubleshooting Help:

    What is your parts list? Consider formatting your parts list.

    CPU: i3-6100@3.7 Ghz GPU: GTX 660 PSU: Corsair CX500 MOBO: MSI B150a Gaming Pro RAM: Ballistics Sport Lt 8gb Storage: PNY 240GB ssd

    Describe your problem. List any error messages and symptoms. Be descriptive.

    PC will not post with ssd connected to power

    List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem.

    Bios has been reached multiple times without ssd connected to psu. Tried with multiple cables, multiple ssds, multiple different Sata ports on the mobo. Bios has never been reached with ssd connected to power.

    Post relevant photos of build/parts here.

    Can provide if needed.

    Provide any additional details you wish below.

    Replace this text with your answer.

    submitted by /u/Shangamayngus
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    About to round off a successful build, when I thought I would try a different modular SATA power cable. Now I have no display output.

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 04:34 AM PDT

    Over the weekend I started to assemble my second ever build. The first one, in 2015, was surprisingly problem-free, and has served me well over the last three years. This time round I was prepared for the law of averages to throw up at least some minor issues to deal with, so by the time I was getting my new Windows desktop in order, I was all but ready to celebrate my now twice-confirmed technical wizardry.

    All that remained was to transfer the data drives from my old machine into the new one; my new case mounts them side by side rather than in a stack, and I was finding it tricky getting the power cables from the PSU to reach all the drives (5x drives in total, so I needed to use all the connectors). Like the idiot many of you are about to realise I am, I thought I would take the more generous modular SATA power cable from my old system and use it in my new modular PSU. As I now know, google would have told me to NEVER EVER DO THIS. I heard a single faint 'tick', presumably from the PSU, and there was no power cycle until I unplugged the offending cable.

    Skipping to the end, I now have no display output from my PC. Nothing in the case suggests anything out of the ordinary when I power it on - all fans and LEDs on all parts come on as expected and everything hums as it should (unfortunately there is no onboard speaker, so no beep code.) I have also:

    • Tested all the drives in my old machine; thankfully they are all still alive.
    • Disconnected the GPU and tried the onboard HDMI; still no output.
    • Tried different monitor and peripheral cables; still nothing.

    I have come to the conclusion it must be either the Mobo, CPU or PSU. My set up consists of:

    i7 8700 Gigabyte Z370P Mobo 2x8GB Corsair DDR4-2400 Palit GTX 1080 and a Corsair TXM 550W PSU.

    Where can I go from here? I would test the PSU in my old machine, but is there a chance it could fry my old setup if it is damaged? I'm hoping that if anything needs replacing it is the Mobo, but is there a likelihood the CPU could be fried? Can I assume my GPU is safe if the onboard video output isn't working?

    tl:dr - 'Borrowed' a modular power cable from my old system to use in my new one and fried an as yet unknown component in the process. Now I have no video output.

    To everyone who doesn't already know, it bears repeating: For the love of god, NEVER MIX AND MATCH MODULAR POWER CABLES.

    submitted by /u/TheNMP
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    Computer on a wall..complete!

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 04:14 PM PDT

    Finished a new build recently. It's a wall mounted i7-8700k build:

    https://imgur.com/rY0vlFq

    Parts:

    https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YrCh9J

    Had to go through a couple of different wall mounts, but it's been up for over a week now and I haven't had to readjust for tilt, so I think I'm good.

    Just need to paint the wire cover to match the wall, and I'm done.

    submitted by /u/Mc_norris
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    A headset for Skype: Logitech vs Sennheiser?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 01:05 PM PDT

    I am buying a headset with a good mic for a remote job, the ones that are available to me in my area are:

    1. LOGITECH G231 PRODIGY

    2. SENNHEISER PC3 CHAT

    3. SENNHEISER PC8 USB

    4. SENNHEISER PC31

    5. SENNHEISER PC310

    I am looking for comfort, and the most important is, mic quality.

    So please go ahead and help me choose.

    submitted by /u/BaraSec
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    Spraypaint Cryorig H7 Lumi?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 02:55 PM PDT

    Hey there!

    I'm planning to build a complete blackout build with very few white rgb. I decided to go with the Cryorig H7 Lumi but unfortunately it is bare aluminium.

    Is it possible to spraypaint the heatsink black? Which paint should I get? What would the correct process be? How much would this lower the cooling ability?

    Thank you! :)

    submitted by /u/panzermuffin
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    4GB R9-290 to an 8GB RX-580?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 03:19 AM PDT

    I spend £211 on my R9 290 four years ago, and I've been looking to upgrade as it doesn't seem to keep up so well in newer games. Is it worth upgrading my card to an 8GB RX 580? It's in my budget but I just need to know if it's a significant enough step up to justify the roughly £270 price tag. If anyone thinks there's a better alternative then I'm all ears :)

    If it is worth it, are you guys able to recommend a particular card that has either two HDMI outputs or two DVI outputs.

    Edit: My rig (if it helps):

    CPU: i5 7500 @ 3.4Ghz

    GPU: XFX R9 290 Double Dissipation (4GB)

    RAM: 8GB DDR4 2400Mhz

    PSU: Corsair CX750M

    submitted by /u/LordTrolldemort16
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    Is the Gigabyte 1080 Windforce worth it for 499?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 11:49 AM PDT

    Plan to oc it in a few years for more gpu heavy games.

    Dunno if its fans will handle it

    //

    edit €

    submitted by /u/DuuDiiDuuDii
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    Most of the build is already down, just waiting for a couple sales so I can fit everything perfectly in budget. (900 CAD)

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 02:26 PM PDT

    I changed a few things since last time, like I upgraded the CPU and changed the case. I just wanted some feedback on how everything's looking on you people's sides.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Type Item Price
    CPU Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor $190.39
    Motherboard Gigabyte - B360M DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $82.82
    Memory Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory Purchased For $94.42
    Storage Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $44.99 @ Memory Express
    Storage Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $53.75 @ Vuugo
    Case Corsair - 100R ATX Mid Tower Case $59.99 @ Amazon Canada
    Other EVGA 500W 80Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply Purchased For $29.99
    Other Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 WINDFORCE OC 6G Purchased For $347.75
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total $904.10
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-02 16:23 EDT-0400
    submitted by /u/Teenage_Cat
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    All That You Should Know About Computer Buses

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 04:35 PM PDT

    A computer sends several kinds of electronic signals back and forth among its various components.

    For efficiency, separate paths on the motherboard called buses each carry only one kind of signal; this boosts the computer's speed and simplifies its operation.

    While PC motherboards have different buses for expansion cards and external devices, all computers have three fundamental buses: Control, Instruction and Address.

    The whole system operates through these buses.

    Bus Architecture:

    Computers consist of several main functional units, including the central processor, memory and input/output.

    The central processor performs basic arithmetic and logic, memory stores programs and data, and input/output routes data to the computer's keyboard, screen and hard drive.

    These parts communicate with each other.

    Some computer designs use a single bus shared by all parts. While inexpensive, the system must manage its signals carefully, and some parts wait until others finish communicating and relinquish control of the bus.

    Multiple buses reduce the waiting time and keep the parts running efficiently.

    The layout of a computer's buses and parts is called its bus architecture.

    1) Control Bus:

    The motherboard's control bus manages the activity in the system.

    All parts "agree to recognize" that if one connection carries a voltage and the next one does not, it means that the central processor reads from memory.

    If the connections reverse roles, the processor writes to memory.

    Other connections deal with the "chunking" of data 8, 16, 32 or 64 bits at a time.

    Still others determine if data is being shuttled to the central processor from memory or the keyboard. This signaling system prevents data from going to the wrong place.

    2) Data Bus:

    The data bus acts as a conduit for data from the keyboard, memory and other devices.

    It passes information at speeds up to billions of characters per second.

    The central processor reads the data, performs calculations, and moves new data back to memory, the hard drive and other locations.

    The control bus determines which direction the data is moving.

    3) Address Bus:

    The computer must be able to access every character of memory rapidly, so every character has its own address number. The central processor specifies which addresses it wants to read or write and the address bus carries this information to a memory controller circuit, which locates and fetches the information.

    Some locations, called random-access memory, hold program instructions and temporary calculation results. Other locations point to the hard drive, mouse and keyboard.

    The control bus specifies which of these two sets of addresses become active for a particular memory operation.

    To know more visit https://zappedia.com/external-data-bus/

    submitted by /u/AllenJames123
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    What's the difference between Trident RGB GTZR(Intel) and GTZRX(AMD)?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 03:54 AM PDT

    Hello Guys. First time posting in Reddit.

    So I bought Trident Z RGB (8x2) GTZR (The Intel one and it is Hynix) because there is no stock regarding the GTZRX RAM. And my MOBO is Gigabyte Aorus X470 Gaming WiFi. I checked the manufacture's RAM support and it does not indicated there. However I saw G.SKILL Trident RGB F4-3000C16D-16GTZR in the support..... Maybe the RAM support is still not updated? Nevertheless, here are my questions:

    • What's the difference between Trident RGB GTZR(Intel) and GTZRX(AMD)?
    • Is it compatible if I use the Trident RGB GTZR (Intel) with AMD mobo and vice versa?
    • If it is compatible with one another, will I experience a decrease of performance if I use the RGB-GTZR with an AMD mobo and vice versa?
    • Why did they created two separate versions of RAM (GTZR and GTZRX)?

    Sorry for being paranoid about this. I'm worried that it will not work if I use a "non-AMD" RAM with my AMD MOBO.

    submitted by /u/edisonrae
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    Feedback on the build ( gonna purchase it next week)

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 12:11 PM PDT

    sooooooo... after 2 days of searching parts and writing in this subreddit..... FINALLY.....

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Type Item Price
    CPU Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor $347.99 @ SuperBiiz
    CPU Cooler be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler $84.99 @ SuperBiiz
    Motherboard ASRock - Fatal1ty Z370 Professional Gaming i7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $272.89 @ OutletPC
    Memory Kingston - HyperX Fury 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory $226.92 @ Amazon
    Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $113.88 @ OutletPC
    Storage Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $58.87 @ OutletPC
    Video Card Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card $829.99 @ B&H
    Case NZXT - Noctis 450 ATX Mid Tower Case $104.11 @ Amazon
    Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Platinum 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $89.99 @ Newegg
    Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $95.89 @ OutletPC
    Case Fan be quiet! - SilentWings 3 PWM 50.5 CFM 120mm Fan $21.90 @ Newegg Marketplace
    Monitor Asus - ROG SWIFT PG278QR 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor $603.00 @ Amazon
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total (before mail-in rebates) $2905.42
    Mail-in rebates -$55.00
    Total $2850.42
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-02 15:03 EDT-0400

    In my country ( france) this is worth 3300 euro. (50 euro for the building of the system) which is 3800 dollars.... and i wonder if i should get it here or from england maybe... but anyway im looking for ur feedback ( is there going to be some sort of bottlneck or better parts) or maybe i should change some parts. Its mainly for gaming and recording and ocassionaly streams at the highest settings possible (mainly mainstream games)

    submitted by /u/Emonji
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    Critique my plan: Living Room PC - Light Gaming and Streaming over Wi-Fi. Fractal Node 202, i3-8100, GTX 1050Ti.

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 03:51 PM PDT

    Build Help/Ready:

    Hey guys, I've been pouring over build ideas and I'd love a critique of my plans. I've tried to keep it simple as this is my first build (since 15 years ago when I did plenty of mucking around with PC's). basically, our PS3 died so I can fill the slot under the TV with this and pretend to my wife it's not really a gaming computer. Which is itsn't, it's more of a multi purpose Living room entertainer.

    I have a NAS with our media on it, and a laptop for internet access.

    *Have you read the sidebar and rules? * I have read the rules!

    What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.

    This PC is intended to sit under our living room TV. It will run Minecraft and Kerbal Space Programme for my son and I, and Elite Dangerous plus some more modern titles I've been missing out on with my laptop over the years (I'd like to try some prettier titles like Tomb raider, Last of us, GTA V). No doubt in a few years it'll be playing the new equivalent of rocket league/fortnight as my son grows into that level of gaming.

    If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, framerate, game settings)

    I'm limited to 1080p by my TV. I'd like to have settings at 'pretty' but am not looking for everything to be on ultra at this budget.

    What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?

    You're looking at it. I've tried to maximise performance per pound here. I've set aside money for OS (WIn 10) and a wireless keyboard and mouse.

    In what country are you purchasing your parts?

    UK

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Type Item Price
    CPU Intel - Core i3-8100 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor £98.00 @ Amazon UK
    CPU Cooler CRYORIG - C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler £29.99 @ Amazon UK
    Motherboard Gigabyte - B360N WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard £86.99 @ Amazon UK
    Memory Team - Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory -
    Storage Kingston - A1000 480GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive £119.94 @ Amazon UK
    Video Card EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card £153.96 @ Amazon UK
    Case Fractal Design - Node 202 HTPC Case w/450W Power Supply -
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total £488.88
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-02 23:39 BST+0100

    Provide any additional details you wish below.

    I'd really like reassurances on the following:

    1) Does RAM speed affect intel builds that much? The MoBo states it suppoers 2200Mhz, 2400, and 2666. I've stuck with 2400 as it's just far easier to find at a reasonable price. I might upgrade to 16gb if DDR4 prices drop in future. (in all honesty I'd probably be looking to buy a proper righ by then with a dedicated monitor).

    2) Does the system look balanced? Any glaring errors?

    3) I've tried to find a 'blower' style GPU as the case clearly needs the GPU to take care of itself and exhaust hot air to the outside world. Does anyone know of a better 1050Ti than my EVGA fiinding?

    4) Any recommendations for a good 'sofa surfing' wireless keyboard and mose? The Motherboard has Bluetooth built in.

    Many thanks all!

    submitted by /u/OolonCaluphid
    [link] [comments]

    Gaming PC for my girlfriend

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 01:36 PM PDT

    Hey guys and girls (you never know),

    I once again need your help. I have been living together with my girlfriend for almost a year now and that calls for a celebration. I introduced her to gaming early on in our relationship and she is HOOKED. She has been playing on my laptop when we are home together. But I have to go on a 1 year trip and have to take this laptop with me. She only owns a mac that isn't able to play her favorite games. The specs don't have to be crazy. The cheaper the better, a real entry level gaming PC that can run games such as borderlands 2, skyrim, and paladins on 50-60 fps 1080p. I would like it to be under 300 euros. But if it haves to be above I wont be greedy. (I only need a list for the tower, I have the periphirals). I am eager to read your suggestions. Thank you in advance.

    -You would really help me out!

    submitted by /u/iFinley_
    [link] [comments]

    How to fix windows

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 03:33 PM PDT

    So i upgraded my PC today and i know you need to get a new windows but how?

    submitted by /u/CarlCarlovich
    [link] [comments]

    Ivy Bridge upgrade worth it?

    Posted: 02 Jul 2018 03:24 PM PDT

    I have an Intel i5-3570 Ivy Bridge rig with a GTX 960 and 8GB ram. Works fine for me still but I have a used i7-3770 available to me. It is still ivy bridge so socket isn't an issue. I am just wondering if it is worth it to install on my computer since they are older. Will I see any big performance jumps? Will I need to uninstall any drivers beforehand? I could google all of this but wanted to get anybody's advice that has done this since other than my graphics card I haven't swapped out any components on this computer.

    submitted by /u/calixpapi
    [link] [comments]

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