Brand new computer, dead after just one week!? Tech Support |
- Brand new computer, dead after just one week!?
- How to "reset" laptop battery metre?
- How do I tell if Comcast is filtering my traffic (NOT PORTS--packet inspection)?
- How do I check if the country-specific model of a new laptop will take my existing SSD before I buy the laptop?
- I have a virus!
- Has anyone here used an external dvd drive to play old games?
- Convert HD F--> M
- Found an old TI-83 Plus
- Is there a way to track activity on a word google doc?
- Phantom Adware virus on computer, nothing is detecting it.
- installed acrtic freezer 12 but pc stiil overheats...
- Why does my adaptor type say my integrated graphics? (Imgur link down below)
- Internet speeds slow on laptop, fast on iPad despite both having same speed test of ~5mbps down and up.
- Something is using my computer to upload things
- need your reviews about SimplHelp
- Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi HD white noise + buzz
- How to upgrade my samsung s9 from android 8.0 to 8.1
- Restricted mode on youtube and safesearch on google are forced on
- FPS problem
- MBR Error
- How to connect a hard drive bay to a router?
- Computer randomly shuts down
- PCI device needs driver
- Swapped a VGA cable, PC’s display isn’t the same as before and games become laggy
- Gigabit Internet suddenly got really slow.
| Brand new computer, dead after just one week!? Posted: 29 Apr 2018 09:08 PM PDT Hello guys A week ago I finally got my new pc build from a big german pc-configuration website. I tested everything on it, like graphically demanding games and rendered some stuff in after effects. All was fine, the PCs was louder than expected but not that I worry about it. I then played about 5 hours PUBG on ultra settings, which the PC should handle with ease. Yesterday then, I wanted to start the PC, after it had been shutdown for almost a day and it didn't boot up. The gpus LEDs just flashed on for a second and nothing else happened. No signal on my monitor, no beeps from the PC. I looked if any cables inside our outside of the PC were loose but it didn't felt like there was something wrong. I tried to start the PC again and the gpus LEDs are not working. The gpus fan is strangely loud. I can hold a sheet of paper over the back of my pc and it would be blown away. The pc now boots up again, with the gpu fan permanently blowing very hard and windows and bios aren't recognizing the gpu at all. This happened all of a sudden, over night. The PC was shut down normally the evening before and I did not install any new hardware since the purchase (which was just a week ago) How can I fix this by myself? What could be wrong with the gpu, just after 1 week of using? The systems specs are: i7-8700k @3.7ghz Asus gtx 1080 ti 16gb crucial ram, 2400mhz Msi z370 a pro Be quiet 650w psu I am contacting the seller today, but it is very frustrating since I couldn't manage to buy a good new machine for many years and now that I have one, it gets broken after a week. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| How to "reset" laptop battery metre? Posted: 29 Apr 2018 08:27 PM PDT Hello, I have a Lenovo y40-80 I bought maybe 3-4 years ago. The battery life on it is still good; trying to calibrate it right now and it's still running fine at 5h25 in. The battery metre doesn't read right at all, though. I've had this issue on and off for years. The first time I was still under warranty so they replaced the battery, but it happened again only 6 months after the replacement. I think I know the issue. Windows is "assuming" the capacity of my battery based on runtime. I think the laptop failed to sleep once or twice in my bag, so the battery kept the computer going with the display off for a few days. When averaging out the battery times on my generated battery report (using powercfg /batteryreport) the number comes out much larger than the battery's actual capacity. So, I think by performing a gauge reset, if possible, it will solve the problem. tl;dr How can I reset my battery metre/gauge? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| How do I tell if Comcast is filtering my traffic (NOT PORTS--packet inspection)? Posted: 29 Apr 2018 08:47 PM PDT Ok, here is question. I started to run into problems with my crypto mining traffic. It is NOT a high-bandwidth operation but about 2 weeks ago my mining operations stopped as the return traffic was blocked. I had to resort to a VPN to get passed Comcast. It's not port blocking, more like packet inspection. Does anyone know of a tool to see if Comcast is doing a packet inspection? Thanks. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 29 Apr 2018 08:23 PM PDT I have a SSD that I want to put into this laptop: The ASUS webpage only offers limited information: https://www.asus.com/au/Laptops/ROG-GL752VW/HelpDesk/ It doesn't say what kinds of SSDs will fit in there, and it doesn't say if it will fit in for the GL752 How can I check what SSDs will fit in there? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:37 AM PDT Hello. My Google Chrome had a virus on my school laptop, but my anti virus does recognizes it. Could you Guys help me? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Has anyone here used an external dvd drive to play old games? Posted: 29 Apr 2018 06:52 PM PDT I was wondering if anyone used an external dvd drive to play some old games because I have been looking at some external drives. If you have used one please tell me which one as I can't for the life of me figure out if it actually will work or not. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:35 AM PDT My HD crashed. New Hard Drive I salvaged from an old PC has a female connector whereas my pc has a male connector: Example: Dead: https://ibb.co/jRXNMx salvaged: https://ibb.co/bWqEZH Tx! [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:30 AM PDT Hi! Yesterday evening my wife found my old TI-83 Plus calculator in what seemed to be in good condition lying in a box up in the attic. I bought it in 2006, it was a requirement for the studies that I took at the time, but for various reasons it was barely used. Anyhow, she picked it up, flipped it over, and checked the condition of the AAA-batteries. Sure enough, they were quite old, but they hadn't leaked all too bad. She decided to take it back to our apartment whereas I then carefully removed the old batteries, and checked the springs. They're all in good condition. Anyhow, this morning – whilst the calculator had been left without batteries overnight – I bought four new AAA-batteries and carefully put them in. (One can never be too careful, am I right?) I've ensured that the springs are working just fine and that the AAA-batteries are positioned properly. So I close it, flip it over down onto its back, place it down on the table, press the ON-button… and then this is happens. I began googling for answers about this and found a few tips, so I've tried the following four suggestions:
The display is acting up, the tips here above doesn't seem to solve it, and I honestly don't know how to tackle this. Where I'm from, this calculator still seems to cost quite a bit of money, so just throwing it away isn't a decision that I'd immediately like to make. I could perhaps buy the necessary tools and open it up, but I'm really not a practical kind of guy. Besides, my wife's really into highly advanced math whilst I, however, am not. Not even remotely. But I thought that getting this calculator up and running would make her really happy, and that it could aid her in the math studies. Any ideas? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Is there a way to track activity on a word google doc? Posted: 29 Apr 2018 07:32 AM PDT I missed class last week due to illness, but sent my completed study guide to my professor so that I could still get credit for the assignment. I'm currently at work on a standby, so I went to the email I sent her to review the document as I have an exam on it tomorrow. When I went to do so, I realized I accidentally sent her the assignment instructions which I had downloaded onto my desktop, and not my completed assignment which I had also saved to my desktop. I just emailed her explaining the situation, but i'm wondering if there's a way on google docs to show what I contributed to it and when so that she can see it was completed before the due date and that I'm not just trying to pull a fast one on her. Any insight would be appreciated! [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Phantom Adware virus on computer, nothing is detecting it. Posted: 30 Apr 2018 01:06 AM PDT Hey everyone. I've been having a massive issue with my Windows 10 PC recently. Basically, I got adware from a download that, in hindsight, was pretty shifty. 100% my fault. Anyways, I figured it'd be easy to just run Malware bytes and take care of whatever was installed. For the most part, it found everything. However, I keep getting redirects through Google Chrome. These redirects open a new tab and attempt to connect to various ad-heavy websites, often with a .ru web address. Luckily, an ad-blocker I have on Chrome picks these up and blocks the website before it can load. Also, sometimes the redirect doesn't go through and the loaded tab just closes. From what I can tell, it's not doing anything harmful to my computer, besides annoying the hell out of me. It's hard to get stuff done when every ten minutes a tab flashes open. The redirects only happen when I click. It doesn't have to be a link, most of the time it happens even when I just click on blank space on a webpage. The most important thing to note is that it only happens in Google Chrome. I've used both Internet Explorer and Microsoft Edge, and neither have the issue. I have tried the following:
Basically, I'm out of ideas. I'm not sure how I should go about fixing this, and any help would be much appreciated. Any information that I didn't provide that you need, please ask. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| installed acrtic freezer 12 but pc stiil overheats... Posted: 30 Apr 2018 04:32 AM PDT hi guys, my pc started to go to 90-100c latley. i changed the cooler system. and applied new paste, and it didnt work. i re-installed the cooler to face the pc fan, and i sew the cooler fan wasnt spinning so i twich the bios to highest voltage and the fan started to work. when i checked temp is started to downgrade from 100c to 50c, but after less then 30 minutes went up tp 100c when the fan was still spinning. i restarted the pc and went to bios and sew: temp: 91c cpu fan: 1036 RPM sys fan: 0 RPM (that was the second time in the bios, first time is was 505 RPM Here's how the fan + cooler looks from inside: https://streamable.com/npz5s hardware monitor: https://imgur.com/a/nxHijTE i checked multiple times that the paste is in place. any tips? im lost here... thanks. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Why does my adaptor type say my integrated graphics? (Imgur link down below) Posted: 29 Apr 2018 10:31 PM PDT https://imgur.com/gallery/ZVMUlM4 Shouldn't it say my graphics card which is a GTX 780M [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 30 Apr 2018 04:28 AM PDT Hi all, I'm not sure what is happening. Both my laptop and iPad are connected to my phone's wifi hotspot. I have full bars of 4G, am getting at least 5.5mbps when connected to speed test on both iPad and iPhone. iPad speeds work great, can stream hi def YouTube no issues. Laptop every webpage takes forever to load. When downloading a zip from github it is about 10kb/s according to the chrome downloaded. When I finally connect to the speed test website on my laptop it gives 5.5mbps down and up and a ping of 70. So why then is my laptop so slow? Clearly something else is going on here. I have reset all the network settings on my laptop. Restarted both phone and laptop. Checked wifi driver up to date, still nothing. Specs: 2012 MacBook Pro running Win10 in boot camp. Huawei G8 mobile phone 4G. Cheers! [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Something is using my computer to upload things Posted: 30 Apr 2018 04:20 AM PDT im running windows 1709, ive had it set to metered connection to avoid unwanted updates i havent been able to play any online video games since windows last updated because my latency spikes up to 1000+ ms every minute or so this is the same thing that happens whenever i upload a picture to send to someone so i know something is uploading things i know it must be my computer because ive changed the wifi password and not told the new one to anyone i think it's almost definitely windows but it could be a keylogger windows data usage shows cortana and the windows store using up 5-6 mb of data even though i use neither it doesnt have to be a large amount of data to cause lag spikes i dont know what to do, closing cortana and the windows store via task manager doesnt work because they immediately start back up im pretty sure ive disabled all the data collection bs in my privacy settings pls help [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| need your reviews about SimplHelp Posted: 30 Apr 2018 04:10 AM PDT After 1 week of evaluating I am convinced and planning to buy SimpleHelp soon. What are your thoughts about it? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi HD white noise + buzz Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:59 AM PDT So this is my set up: an Antlion modmic 5 is plugged into a Creative Sound blaster X-fi HD soundcard via a 6.3 mm jack, and the soundcard is plugged via USB to the PC. My issue is that there is white moise and a buzz in the sound of my microphone and I have tried others microphone in the soundcard but it seems that the soundcard is at blame here as the sound is still here. Here is what I've tried: Tried other microphones with the soundcard. Reinstalled the drivers for the X-fi HD via the Creative autoupdate feature that came with, and subsequently restarted. Tried plugging the Antlion modmic into the integrated soundcard , but it sounds even worse. Disabled the on-board Audio of my Mobo. Tried plugging the X-fi HD soundcard into different USB slots. Tried different 6.3 MM converters on the microphone to eliminate the problem being a faulty 6.3 MM converter. The Antlion is positioned correctly; the microphone icon on it is towards my mouth. At this point, I'm all out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated. Running Windows 10 Home Stable build. Other USB devices plugged in: [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| How to upgrade my samsung s9 from android 8.0 to 8.1 Posted: 30 Apr 2018 12:09 AM PDT The title says it all, I need help regarding this because I can't find any auto software update from the phone settings, well if there is any, to anyone that knows please answer. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Restricted mode on youtube and safesearch on google are forced on Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:46 AM PDT Today safesearch for google and youtube restricted mode are stuck on for my computer. They were definitely not on this morning and I have not downloaded anything today. This is the only device in the house having this problem and I have checked that no parental settings are on through my router. Have tried restarting both my PC and the router, using regedit to check if safesearch is on in the policies folder (didnt have a chrome folder in either LOCAL_MACHINE or CURRENT_USER) and have tried using different opera and internet explorer as well which have the same restrictions. I can't even access half the help forums online because safesearch is blocking most of them. Using Windows 10, please help! [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:46 AM PDT Using an AMD R9 200 series (pretty sure it's 280x but not certain) and my FPS is capped at a constant 50 even though the frame rate target control in AMD settings is set to 50. This is with all games, any help? [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 29 Apr 2018 11:58 PM PDT While the issue I have now is somewhat different to the one I had before I will preface this post with the post I made to tomshardware which will cover some old details that are still relevant: "I originally had my OS (Windows 8) on my 1TB hard drive (E:) but I bought an SSD (C:) and decided to install a new version of win 10 on it for faster boot times. This worked fine for about 2 years but about 4 months ago I started getting an error where I would boot into the SSD but instead of windows I would first get "MBR Error 1, press any key to book from floppy disc" and then after pressing a key "MBR Error 2, press any key to book from floppy disc", which would re-print to the screen with every key press. I worked out that I could get it to boot into windows on the SSD by booting first into the old HDD's windows 8 and then when prompted selecting the option to load into windows 10 on the SSD. This worked well for about 4 months until I recently started getting random BSODs with the stop code "MEMORY_MANAGEMENT". To fix the BSODs I tried: - Updating BIOs - Scanning for viruses - Performing Windows memory diagnostic - Removing CMOS battery (this appeared to work but it eventually started happening again) Then, thinking that solving the MBR Error might fix it i tried: - going through these steps: https://pureinfotech.com/repair-master-boot-record-mbr-... - bootrec /fixmbr returns "The operation completed successfully" - bootrec /fixboot returns "Access is denied" (Despite the cmd window being titled "Administrator: ..." - bootrec /scanOS returns "Successfully scanned windows installations. Total identified windows installations: 1 [1] C:\Windows (this is the SSD windows 10) the operation completed successfully" - bootrec /rebuildBCD + pressing "Y" when prompted returns "the requested system device cannot be found" I'm quite unsure how to proceed now, if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it immensely." Since the posting of this thread a week ago, I tried a few other things with the recovery drive and miraculously the C drive (SSD) became bootable. To check if this was always the case I removed the E drive (HDD) and much to my disappointment, I was met with a message: Reboot and Select proper boot device. TL;DR - I have a windows 10 installation on my C drive that I use, and an old half- (manually) deleted windows 8 installation on my E drive, which I now use for storing photos and movies etc. It appears that the boot record on the SSD is corrupt and as such the only way to boot into it is to 'attempt to boot into the win 8 installation on the E drive' and then when prompted choose win 10 on the C drive. How do I fix this without having to format the SSD and reinstall windows. Thanks, Hugo [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| How to connect a hard drive bay to a router? Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:42 AM PDT Hello! I bought a hard drive bay (drobo 3rd gen) quite some time ago and connected it to my main pc. Now I didn't really used it a lot and would like to use it more, its a pain to turn it on everyday especially since it has to do a lot of data protection.... Takes damn long. So I would like to connect it to the router. I connected it to the router and nothing happened..... Logged into the router and couldn't even find the hard drive bay. I did some research and apparently the provider has turned the USB port off... It was only a 2.0 port so okay :L Now my question is: "Is there another possibility to connect the hard drive bay to the router?" I can only think of a cheap raspberry pi (or somethign like this) and connect this to the router. Will this work? I can't really try it out (since I don't have one) and would like to know for sure if this works before I buy it.. Also another quick question. Will the hard drive bay, if I somehow get it connected , be wired or wireless recognized by my main pc? The main pc is connected by an ethernet cable. [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:41 AM PDT My computer randomly shuts down and I cant turn it back on unless I unplug and replug the 24 pin connector. I have tried another PSU and that wouldn't work at all. The issue mostly happens whilst playing games. Specs: Asus Prime A320M-K FSP 750 watt PSU Ryzen 7 1700 GTX 1060 6GB 8gb RAM Network Card [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 30 Apr 2018 03:40 AM PDT Hi, My PCI device in device manager has that yellow exclamation point and I tried to update it through device manager but it doesn't work. I have no clue how to do this manually and I have searched a lot on other sites and have not found the solution. I am not that tech savvy because I have no clue what this PCI thing is but I do know the terms gpu, cpu etc. Is this driver necessary at all? If it is is there a way to update it? My OS: Win8 This is the hardware id of PCI if it helps PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_145A&SUBSYS_145A1022&REV_00 PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_145A&SUBSYS_145A1022 PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_145A&CC_130000 PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_145A&CC_1300 [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Swapped a VGA cable, PC’s display isn’t the same as before and games become laggy Posted: 29 Apr 2018 11:44 PM PDT So yesterday my VGA cable somehow became damaged and was not usable. I then decided to get a new one but now the display is very different from yesterday (it isn't as sharp and the colour contrast was kind of weird) Right now my text has this shadow effect (don't really know how to describe it tbh) and when i run a game (FIFA 18 In this case) is lags out so badly its unplayable.. which doesn't make sense as it was working fine yesterday. Someone help please :( [link] [comments]  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Gigabit Internet suddenly got really slow. Posted: 29 Apr 2018 09:29 PM PDT Hi guys, this issue only popped up within the last couple of weeks. We've been paying for a centurylink gigabit internet plan, since they've recently installed fiber here. We've had this plan for a while and it's been fine until now. Recently, the download speeds around peak times, which is around 6-12 PM, gets massively slow. The download speed is 5.60 Mbps and the upload speed is 910.86 Here's a picture: The upload speed remains around what it should be, but the download speed is much lower than what it normally was. I understand that speeds generally tend to get slower during peak hours, but do they get more than 900 mbps slower? To reiterate, I'm pretty sure this happened only recently, since I noticed my ping in online games suddenly shot up within this week. Edit: I have a wired connection, and I've already called Centurylink and they replaced my modem, though it has the same problem. [link] [comments]  |
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