Home Networking HELP, which scheme is this ethernet cable (T568A or B) |
- HELP, which scheme is this ethernet cable (T568A or B)
- Advices for home network.
- Galaxy A32 can't joining home network
- A simple router for a simple guy
- #AMA - I have Comcast Xfinity's new 4 Gbps symmetrical residential plan
- Tag or untag single VLAN on physical link
- What is the story of your internet speeds? Where did you start and end up at?
- No Bridge Mode On Router/Modem
- The Netgear CAX80-100NAS (AX6000) Cable Modem Is Flawed
- I want a mesh network (wired vs wireless)
- Mesh as a Router or as Access Points ?
- Intermittent orange light on TP Link POE switch
- VPN kills whole network
- How do I access my routers dashboard to modify it?
- Help with Moca please! I’m clueless
- My cat5 cable on the Router end is split 2 ways and not plugged into WAN
- hardware for a new house
- Can I port forward 2 PS5s?
- Do I need QoS or bandwidth control?
- How to force TP - Link Deco M5 Mesh unit to not connect to main source
- Cheap access point or use a cheap router as ap mode? Does access point mode affect samba external media hard drive connection?
- Keystone Jack Recommendations - Monoprice Jacks Getting OPEN Errors
- Mesh Recommendations (townhome)
- T-mobile SIM with 4G LTE modem as backup WAN
- Person X is listening on our Chromecast
HELP, which scheme is this ethernet cable (T568A or B) Posted: 27 Mar 2022 10:33 AM PDT
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Posted: 28 Mar 2022 02:50 AM PDT Hi guys, my new home will be ready in 2-3 months and I'm researching for the last time before purchasing. In the last year I had done some research but I'm not a profesional and I need some advices. I had wired my new home with Cat 6a cables to have 10Gbps network and PoE for WAPs on the ceiling. I think I will go with Ubiquity devices but I'm not sure if is necessary to get a solid home network. What I want is solid Wifi, 10Gbps LAN network, PoE. But I have a strange situation to manage, I need TWO internet connections. My main connection is LTE, 200GB per month and is dedicated for pc, tv and smartphones. BUT it's behind CGNAT and the SIP won't free my IP. SO, I need a second connection to manage all my smart things with home assistant. What I'm planing is to use my parent's ADSL (very slow, max 1,5-2 Mbps) for my raspberry Pi with home assistant. So the "plan" would be have my Raspberry pi connected to one switch/router and redirect all internet data to my parent's network. This will make the Pi controll all my BT and Zigbee devices but get an external IP throught my parents adsl. Is it possibile? Can I manage a device on a second network when inside mine? Maybe a layer3 router? I have a scheme of what I would do image [link] [comments] | ||
Galaxy A32 can't joining home network Posted: 28 Mar 2022 05:19 AM PDT Hi everyone! My mom just got her A32 some days ago. It can't join the home network. When I type the password it says error. I tried it with QR code read but it cause the same. My mom's sister has a A32 too and her phone can't connect neither. Other devices like my phone, computer laptop are easily connect to the network. We've tried joining other wifi networks with the a32 and it easily join those other ones. Only our home network is not good for the phone. Any idea how to solve it? [link] [comments] | ||
A simple router for a simple guy Posted: 28 Mar 2022 05:04 AM PDT Hello r/Homenet working I am looking to replace my ISP provided router and suffering from analysis paralysis. I am by no means a power user, I have somewhere in the neighborhood of 200 down / 15 up in a 1200 sq ft house with two people. I may be moving soon into a slightly larger house in an area with gigabit internet so I would like to at least future proof for those things but I'm not a gamer or anything, reliability is the biggest factor for me. There seems to be a plethora of routers that meet my criteria but when reading reviews on them, the reviews for router 1 say it's garbage, use router 2. Then the reviews for router 2 say it's garbage, use router 1 or 3 and so on. I am sure many of the problems are caused by user error so I wanted to see if some of you home networking enthusiasts would be kind enough to weigh in. Thanks [link] [comments] | ||
#AMA - I have Comcast Xfinity's new 4 Gbps symmetrical residential plan Posted: 27 Mar 2022 11:39 AM PDT I am one of the 4 or 5%'ers that hold near and dear, the Gigabit Pro Plan. The plan utilizes 2 connections off of the same fiber termination (into a Comcast Juniper ACX2100). I get two handoffs, a 1 Gbps/1 Gbps /30, and a 3 Gbps/3 Gbps /30. Each with their own static IP. I am curious if anyone has any questions! I know some people have EBP 10 Gbps, but for those of us stuck in an area where 10 Gig isn't readily available, this is all I could do reasonably. [link] [comments] | ||
Tag or untag single VLAN on physical link Posted: 28 Mar 2022 04:08 AM PDT Two of my switches need to share a single VLAN. Should I have it tagged or untagged? I'm assuming having it tagged would make it easier to add more if needed, but is there anything else I should be taking into account? What are the best practices? [link] [comments] | ||
What is the story of your internet speeds? Where did you start and end up at? Posted: 27 Mar 2022 03:22 PM PDT I grew up on Dial-Up, the old 56k modem well into the early 2000s. It was around 2008 or so when CenturyLink installed DSL. We could only get 1.5 Mbps and I think 768k upload. For the first 3 months, we were unthrottled at 10 Mbps download and about 5 or 6 Mbps upload. Soon they caught on and took us down to the 1.5 Mbps T1 package. It was rough. In 2013 or 2013 I had a T-Mobile phone and they released a special $25/m package for unlimited hotspot and tethering. I abused the hell out of this. In 2017-2018 I bought a PepLink Balance One load-balancing router and the license key. I used my small business AT&T account and bought 6 hotspots. I put 3 in one room and ran ethernet to the PepLink, and then put 3 in another room. I ran 2 independent Yagi cell boosters to the 2 nearest towers, and could pull about 300 Mbps download and 120 Mbps upload across 6 hotspots. I then took the output, connected it to a Ubiquiti Edge Light router and sent it up a 35ft antenna mast to an AC Rocket, and sold high-speed to all my neighbors to cover the AT&T bill. I then moved a county over and got Comcast Xfinity, with their gig plan. It is 1 Gig down and about 40 Mbps upload. I had this for 3-years before switching to their 4 Gbps Gig Pro fiber plan. [link] [comments] | ||
No Bridge Mode On Router/Modem Posted: 28 Mar 2022 03:27 AM PDT I have just received my ASUS RT-AX55 which I want to set up as my main router, using my ISP-provided modem/router in bridge mode to use it just as a modem. It turns out my ISP-provided router/modem does not support bridge mode. I have turned off WIFI on my ISP-provided router/modem and just plugged the ethernet directly into the new Routers WAN port, it appears to work fine with no issues so far. Is this ok? Using protocol VDSL2 [link] [comments] | ||
The Netgear CAX80-100NAS (AX6000) Cable Modem Is Flawed Posted: 28 Mar 2022 02:59 AM PDT I am a customer of Comcast Xfinity. I recently upgraded to the Extreme Pro 1200 plan. I had a Netgear C7000 modem I purchased years ago, which worked great for connections below 1gbps because that modem supported DOCSIS 3.0. I purchased the Netgear CAX80-100NAS for two reasons, I needed a DOCSIS 3.1 cable modem, and I wanted Wi-Fi 6 connectivity to compliment my Extreme Pro 1200 plan for my capable wireless devices. Xfinity removed my previous C7000 modem and added my CAX80 to my account. This process took less than fifteen minutes. I was up and running. I immediately went to multiple sites testing to ensure I am getting up to advertised speeds of 1.2gbps. After many short tests, I confirmed that Xfinity and the CAX80 exceeded my 1200mbps. Great. The trouble began when I began to play some multiplayer games online. My connection would seize up and continue or just cutoff completely. The disconnection occurs while my CAT6 cable is connected in to the 2.5GbE port on the CAX80 linked to the Realtek 2.5GbE Ethernet port on my PC. This does not occur while plugged in to the Intel i211 1gbps port on my motherboard. The connection worked fine for 24 hours without interruption. The next day, I wanted to resolve the issue with my 2.5GbE connection because I am paying for 1.2gbps through my Internet service provider (ISP). As some may not be aware, my Intel NIC only supports up to 1gbps. I do not believe accepting the 1gbps connection to be a solution to my connection issues for a product that is in excess of $500. I wish to have the products and services I have paid for. The rabbit hole begins. I visit Realtek's website to update the drivers for the "Realtek PCIe 2.5GbE Family Controller" https://www.realtek.com/en/downloads I chose the "Realtek PCIe FE" link as this is the compatible driver for my controller. I can see that my NIC (RTL8125B) is listed. I then chose the "Win11 Auto Installation Program" for my operating system, Windows 11. I unzipped the file. Installed the driver and reconnected my CAT6 cable to my CAX80's 2.5GbE port and the Realtek 2.5GbE port on my motherboard. As of this writing, the latest Realtek driver version is 1125.6.215.2022. The date the driver was published was March 25, 2022. I then purchased an ASUS 2.5G Ethernet USB Adapter to try to isolate that this was an issue with my Ethernet port on my motherboard and not the NIC built-in my CAX80 cable modem. I wanted to make sure I installed the latest driver for this device, and to my surprise, it too has a NIC from Realtek. The modem within this device (RTL8156B). Using the link from above, I chose the "Realtek USB FE" link this time. Using the "Win11 Auto Installation Program (NetAdapterCx)". Unzipped. Installed. This wireless driver version is 1156.4.20.211. The date the driver was published was March 23, 2022. The problem persisted. Random cutouts throughout the day on both NICs. Absolutely random. Nothing I can replicate to isolate the cause of these disconnections. Final thoughts. I can use my Wi-Fi 6 via the built-in wireless NIC on my motherboard. It is compatible with the CAX80 Wi-Fi 6 connections. It works well and I can get the advertised speeds. The NIC is "Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200 160MHz". It does not disconnect nor have interruptions. However, the latencies are what you receive when utilizing wireless devices. This is fine for surfing the web or watching videos, but for multiplayer competitive gaming, it is not ideal. I also want to add that my Netgear CAX80-100NAS has the latest firmware: V2.1.3.7 installed on the device. A new revision of this product is needed and the CAX80 in its current production should be recalled. A newer NIC is needed that resolves these issues. I have reached out to Netgear and Xfinity multiple times. Both companies keep pointing the finger and going through the same troubleshooting processes that lead to nowhere. I cannot confirm the type of NIC inside of the CAX80 and their support team stands clear of identifying it. I cannot find another cable modem on the market that offers both 2.5GbE and Wi-Fi 6. I am open to suggestions. If you wish to visit Netgear's community-based support pages of the CAX80, you will learn that this is a widespread issue being ignored. For the less advanced users who do not have the CAX80 plugged into a 2.5GbE port will not realize there is any issue at all, as the CAX80 with an Ethernet cable plugged into its 2.5GbE port to a 1gbps port will "Auto Negotiate" a 1gbps connection and function flawlessly. Unfortunately, for us who want the highest speeds offered to us must seek other products. UPDATE: By disabling the Wi-Fi signals from the CAX80, the 2.5GbE port will function perfectly, but that defeats the purpose of having a cable modem with wireless access. [link] [comments] | ||
I want a mesh network (wired vs wireless) Posted: 27 Mar 2022 08:39 PM PDT I currently have 3 routers at my house because I have a decent sized house and yard. Right now, as you move around the house, you have to disconnect and reconnect to the different access points. I have cat6 run all over the house and I have the material and ability to run more. I've been looking at mesh networks and they all operate wireless between the different access points. Should I just buy something like that and forget about the cat6 that is already run? One of the runs goes out to my shed that is pretty good distance from the house and I'm not sure something wireless would reach out there reliably. Any advice? I'd like to upgrade everything regardless. Can anyone recommend products with model numbers? I'd like to have 4 wired access points. The main router plus 3 satellite locations. Plus 1 wired computer connection [link] [comments] | ||
Mesh as a Router or as Access Points ? Posted: 27 Mar 2022 10:04 PM PDT I live in a large 5600 sqft , 3 floor home (concrete floors, brick walls) .Presently I have an Asus RT-AC87U Router and 3 Deco x60's as Access points (all wired with Cat6 / ethernet backhaul). I have a large number (120+) of wired (cat6) and wireless devices (all bandwidth guzzlers for 4K like TV's and Media Servers like Nvidia /Apple +/ Roku are wired). As my Router is 7 years old , I was planning to upgrade to the Asus AX86U or AX88U . Is it better to use the Deco X60 in Router mode , add a few more Deco's or upgrade the router for better performance . Your directions will be most appreciated. [link] [comments] | ||
Intermittent orange light on TP Link POE switch Posted: 28 Mar 2022 01:39 AM PDT Hi everyone, I have a basic home network with a POE Switch, Controller and two AP's. As of last week, I have lost the connection to one AP. I have done the following: - Tested Access Point (works fine) - Checked cable running from POE to AP (fine) - Checked plug connectors (fine) On the back of the POE, I have a solid green and orange light for the connection of the working AP. However, the other AP connection is solid green and has a somewhat intermittent orange light. After resetting the affected AP, I can see the generic TP Link wifi but cannot connect to it. It just times out. It's almost as if the connection is damaged somehow. Is there anything else that I could test here? [link] [comments] | ||
Posted: 28 Mar 2022 01:28 AM PDT Hi all, I'm completely stumped on this one. DSL modem /router TP Link Archer 1600, connects to a Unifi Dream Machine (round one). All the clients connect to the dream machine both wifi and wired. For some reason when a client, uses a VPN such as PIA or mulvad, especially with a kill switch on when it disconnects. Every single client on our home network loses internet too. Can't ping any computers. The unifi dream machine can't be pinged nor can the modem. If I reset 1 it won't work. I have to reset both at the same time. How can a client PC crash an entire network using a VPN? [link] [comments] | ||
How do I access my routers dashboard to modify it? Posted: 27 Mar 2022 07:14 PM PDT It seems to be an ancient router that no one knows about, zinwell gfast dual wan cpe, any help appreciated [link] [comments] | ||
Help with Moca please! I’m clueless Posted: 27 Mar 2022 07:12 PM PDT
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My cat5 cable on the Router end is split 2 ways and not plugged into WAN Posted: 28 Mar 2022 12:53 AM PDT Hiya, My landlords have a cat5 cable running to the basement that is split two ways plugged into my router - I assume that the split is the same as using a ethernet splitter. There are 2 rj-45 connectors coming off of the cable with the following configurations: Cable A - Green / Greenwhite / Orange / Orangewhite Cable B - Brown / Brownwhite / Blue / Bluewhite The cables are plugged into ports 1 and 2 on the router. The WAN port is open/free. I do not have access to the router config page. If I plug Cable A into the WAN port the internet stops working. If I plug cable B into the WAN port the internet works and I see a seemingly normal gateway address when using IPCONFIG, but I still cannot access my router settings page. I do not know the situation upstairs. Is there any reason that my internet may be set up this way? Would there be any harm in removing the RJ45 connectors and wiring all wires to a single connector to be used in the WAN port of the router? [link] [comments] | ||
Posted: 28 Mar 2022 12:44 AM PDT Hi there, I'm moving into a new house soon and it's the first time I'll be needing more than just an all-in-one router. The new house has already been wired up but there's a few limitations. First is the networking cabinet itself, it's very compact and can only fit a relatively small wired router. Next is the amount of cabling, each room only has a single cable run to it (a total of 4). The house itself is three levels and has a fair amount of concrete, so I think we'll need an AP on at least two of the levels. We'll have gigabit fibre connected and as far as devices go, we've got: * a media server * a desktop * two laptops * a PS5 * a TV * some extra devices on wifi Due to the limited jacks, for any room where we want to wire stuff in as well as connect an access point, we'll need a switch. If anyone has any advice on what to get that would be awesome. I'm not too adverse to spending time on getting it set up and enjoy a bit of tinkering. So it doesn't have to be something dead easy to set up as long as it's not crazy. I think what we need is a compact wired router, two APs, 1-2 switches (potentially with POE)? I've been tossing up between Ubiquiti and Mikrotik but unsure what's overkill and whether Mikrotik is actually that hard to setup. Cheers [link] [comments] | ||
Posted: 27 Mar 2022 08:34 PM PDT I want to be able to have NAT 2 on both consoles, but not sure what numbers (TCP/UDP)to run for the second console [link] [comments] | ||
Do I need QoS or bandwidth control? Posted: 28 Mar 2022 12:14 AM PDT I had an old TP-Link wifi router that is capable of bandwidth control. so that I could allocate the bandwidth for my working laptop. Now I tend to update to the wifi 6 Mesh, I see most of their routers only have Qos. Qos is cool but most of the time, I could not tell whether it is working as intended. Do you have any recommendation of a wifi 6 router that is capable of bandwidth control for specific devices, a mesh mode would be highly appreciated. thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
How to force TP - Link Deco M5 Mesh unit to not connect to main source Posted: 27 Mar 2022 11:45 PM PDT Title pretty much says it all, I live in a 3 floor house with my main deco unit being in the third floor, the second one on the stairs to the second floor, and the third one on the stairs to the 1st floor. My problem is that the mesh unit on the 1st floor is still connecting to the main unit on 3rd floor when I understand it should connect to the closes strongest unit on the 2nd floor. I tried searchung up and it said I should either optimize the network or reboot the mesh unit via the app but its not working. How do I fix this? [link] [comments] | ||
Posted: 27 Mar 2022 11:39 PM PDT I currently have my cable modem 400mbps internet setup upstairs with an asus ac-3200 wifi 5 router connected to usb external hard drive to have plex access with my nvidia shield because for some reason the shield can't handle it connected directly to it (maybe because the shield goes to sleep and loses connection?). I bought a cheap wifi 6 netgear ax1800 router on sale for like $35 used. It drops connection to the furthest room downstairs but most of our internet use is upstairs. The ac-3200 has slow speed but doesn't drop connection. I have a moca setup connecting the upstairs and downstairs with tv and media devices. I just need something to connect to the ethernet downstairs to shore up the weak connection. Should i use the netgear in ap mode or buy a wax204 which is designed as access point or something else under $50 so that once in awhile we can use wifi devices downstairs without slow internet. Is there difference in dedicated router vs an access point router other than one has less hardware? Is it better as an ap? I hear bad things about netgear so thinking about changing it but most are above $100 which doesn't make sense for my situation since it is rarely used. The other option is to use netgear wifi 6 as router upstairs and asus ac3200 wifi 5 as access point mode downstairs but not sure if the usb external hard drive connection will still work using samba when the asus modem is in ap mode. The netgear doesn't have usb port which was a mistake and still in return window [link] [comments] | ||
Keystone Jack Recommendations - Monoprice Jacks Getting OPEN Errors Posted: 27 Mar 2022 11:01 PM PDT Hey, y'all. Just got part of my home wired up for Ethernet (I say part because my dad and I couldn't figure out a great way to get Ethernet up onto the second floor... to be continued...), and I was starting to get everything punched down into keystone jacks so that they could be terminated into a patch panel on one end and face plates on the other. However, as I started to test the cables, I noticed that I was getting 4,5 OPEN errors on most of my cables. I tried repunching, cutting and doing it into the same jack, and cutting and going into a different jack, all to no avail. I eventually tried a couple of jacks that I knew were good, and a cable that was failing before suddenly worked. I was using the CableMatters Jacks, which have 5-stars and seem to be recommended highly here... but it seems I may have gotten a bum set? Should I just try to grab another set and hope I have better luck this time? Or does anyone have recommendations for another set? Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
Mesh Recommendations (townhome) Posted: 27 Mar 2022 10:46 PM PDT Just moved in into a townhome that's 1300 sqft. and 3-floors total (1st - Office Space/Guest Bedroom, 2nd - Living Room/Kitchen, 3rd - Main Bedroom, "4th" - Rooftop). I moved in 4-weeks ago and prepared the following set-up with my ISP (Xfinity @ up to 600 MBs): Current Set-Up:
However, I have inconsistent WiFi speeds in the same spot (living room, where the modem and main node are set up) and speeds that rarely reach 300 MBs. I reached out to my ISP and they sent a tech over to check speeds that are outputting from my modem and it was confirmed to be ~740 MBs, so it's indeed the mesh system I have (Deco S4, as described above). I'll be returning my current mesh system because of these slow speeds. Any recommendations on what mesh systems are reliable and have faster speeds? Do I even need a mesh system for my current home configuration? [link] [comments] | ||
T-mobile SIM with 4G LTE modem as backup WAN Posted: 27 Mar 2022 06:50 PM PDT My wife and I are looking at switching phone plans, and the T-Mobile option we're looking at appears to be the same cost for three lines as it is for two on a shared unlimited data plan. I'm wondering if we could go with that plan, and I could just take the third SIM card, pick up a 4G LTE modem, and use it as a backup WAN connection for when FiOS goes down; I figure if three lines are the same price as two and data is unlimited anyway, it'd be a pretty good backup connection. Anyone know if this is something T-Mobile would allow, or do the SIMs/lines have to be specifically designated on T-Mobile's side for use in a router? [link] [comments] | ||
Person X is listening on our Chromecast Posted: 27 Mar 2022 02:32 AM PDT I have a home network with various speakers and casting devices (like Sonos, Chromecast, Echo) all connected to the same WPA2-PSK network with a loooong password. Today, we observed that some random person we do not know shows as listening on our Chromecast. The Chromecast was bought from new, so it is only configured with our credentials. I found the particular person on Facebook and she is living in another part of the country, so it is unlikely that she's physically nearby. Do you have any idea how or why the person shows up as listening? And what does it mean? [link] [comments] |
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