Home Networking Trying to find a device to locate CAT 5e behind sheet rock |
- Trying to find a device to locate CAT 5e behind sheet rock
- Outside access to cameras blocked by firewall
- Reasonable solutions to cover a couple hundred meters with cheap radio equipment?
- Slow speeds on native Windows 10 folder share
- Easy way to convert an unsecure network to a secure one that my smart bulbs can use?
- Location-based routing? DNS?
- Issues with internet getting timed out for about 5 seconds every hour.
- Welcome to "Securing Your Home Network 101"
- Cheapest multi-Gbps router solution?
- Does something this stupid happened to you?
- SMB over wifi is 1/10 of the link speed
- Netgear EX7000 Repeater Outta Nowhere Only Works On Fastlane (one band at a time)
- ISP Modem/router combo with aftermarket router
- Options to get internet to a house that is about 500m from the road.
- MiniPC with dual 2.5GB ports OR PCIe slot for pfsense
- AT&T's BGW320 - Secure?
- Networking Cable Not Working?
- Will LED Strip interfere with ethernet cat6 UTP cable
- Rural CA internet possibilities...
- Aruba instant go vs Meraki Go vs Unifi
- Coax 2-Way Splitter to 2 MoCA adapters?
- XT8 and HomePod Mini 301014 Error
- Stand-alone router/gateway (2.5Gbe +)
| Trying to find a device to locate CAT 5e behind sheet rock Posted: 27 Jan 2022 03:17 PM PST My home was pre-wired for CAT 5e. I'm not the original owner. All of the wiring terminates in a closet. The prior owner never used them. I cannot find where they go. I tried a tone generator from Ideal 33-864 that I already had from work. It's only good for identifying wires, not locating them. Y **Update** It is possible the Cat 5 gets near the COAX somewhere and picks up the tone generator? Pic of the closet wiring: [link] [comments] | ||
| Outside access to cameras blocked by firewall Posted: 28 Jan 2022 04:21 AM PST Good day folks, I bought a new router recently (TP Link Omada ER605) and ever since then I cannot access my wired Reolink POE cameras, through the Reolink app on my phone, while outside of my network. My old router, which was the default one from my ISP (Bell HH3000) didn't block the access by default.....it always worked perfect from outside. What could be different here? I went on Reolinks website and there was some support info that said you have to forward ports 9000 and 80 to your NVR to get the app to work. I did that and I still had no access from outside on my android phone. On my old router, I didn't have to open up any ports anyway.....it just worked. My Eufy camera stuff that I have can be accessed from the app even while outside the network with my new router so I'm not sure how to sort it all out. Any tips? What I tried so far: - Put the NVR on the DMZ. Still could not connect while not on home network. - One odd thing about all this. I have 4x Reolink POE cameras plus an NVR. These are the cameras I cannot connect to. I also have one single wireless Reolink camera (argus eco I think), which I can connect to on the app outside the network.....odd how that one wireless cam can be accessed but the wired ones cannot. Also, as I mentioned above, my 3 wireless Eufy cameras can be accessed as well. So wireless good.....wired.....no good. - Could it be a conflict between my routers admin page and the Reolink App?? [link] [comments] | ||
| Reasonable solutions to cover a couple hundred meters with cheap radio equipment? Posted: 28 Jan 2022 04:45 AM PST I've got a first world problem: my Tesla is too far from my WiFi network. It's kept in an underground garage but I can move it out in the open if needed. My apartment is a short distance away, with 1-2 buildings in between (no direct LOS) depending on where the car is. Garage and buildings are all concrete. All in all, not an ideal situation to get a network to the car. However sometimes it would be really convenient to have WiFi in the car: to download software updates and to upload dashcam videos. Of course I could get an LTE-wifi router and pay 20-30 bucks a month to achieve this, but I was wondering whether there's a cheaper DIY solution. I looked into IoT sim cards but they are almost always billed based on the amount of data used and end up being much more expensive than a standard mobile subscription with unlimited data. Basically what I'm thinking is to set up some kind of high power radio transmitter that can do around 1-5 Mbps in this larger area. In the car a Raspberry Pi Zero W can connect to this network and act as a WiFi bridge. Does this make any sense? Does such technology exist at all? [link] [comments] | ||
| Slow speeds on native Windows 10 folder share Posted: 28 Jan 2022 04:44 AM PST I've spent way too much time that I'm comfortable admitting in trying to set up my desktop and laptop, both on the same network, to share files and folders. Whilst I did manage to set up the network so that I can access a directory on one computer from another, I get ridiculously slow speeds during file transfer which are on par with my internet upload speed instead of local network speeds! My network is as follow: Router -> Powerline to office -> CAT5 to Netgear router -> CAT 5 to both computers Pretty straightforward right? I'm expecting a gigabyte connection, not 10mb/s that I am currently getting when trying to transfer some files. Example file is a 20Gb folder, from a SSD drive on my laptop to a SSD drive on my desktop. I have Mullvad VPN setup on my desktop, for which I have local network access activated. I tried deactivating Mullvad altogether but no change in speed. In the Network tab in the explorer, I can see the desktop computer but not the laptop, which lets me believe there may be another issue going on as well. What am I missing? Let me know if you any more details. The whole network is on DHCP from the main router. [link] [comments] | ||
| Easy way to convert an unsecure network to a secure one that my smart bulbs can use? Posted: 28 Jan 2022 04:32 AM PST Hello, I need some expert advice on what's the easiest way for me to use a bunch of Smart Bulbs in my dorm. So, let me give you a bit of context. The provider (MyResNet) provides an unsecured WiFi for all of us to use but in order to do so, the MAC address of the device that needs to connect to the internet needs to be added to our account which is all peachy most of the times. Some devices such as a Google Home Mini, smart bulbs and plugs don't seem to be working because they expect a secured Wi-Fi connection which makes sense but it makes our life a bit difficult. Is there an easy way I can maybe use a small router plugged into a wall or something of the like that I can use to essentially "convert" or re-broadcast the same Wi-Fi but secured in my room? Or are there any better ways to achieve this? I have one of these range extenders lying around as well. Can I use this to achieve what I need? Please help me figure this out. Thank you! [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 28 Jan 2022 12:39 AM PST Hey everybody, I have a VPS running OpenVPN and pihole that is also the gateway for my mobile devices. At home I have a server running UnRAID that these devices need to access for backups etc. I want to access the home server using a local domain name like "server.local" that resolves to it's VPN IP (10.8.X.X) when on the road and it's local IP (192.168.X.X) when at home. Any ideas how to accomplish this? [link] [comments] | ||
| Issues with internet getting timed out for about 5 seconds every hour. Posted: 27 Jan 2022 03:40 PM PST
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| Welcome to "Securing Your Home Network 101" Posted: 28 Jan 2022 12:05 AM PST Class is in session... except, I'm not the teacher. You are! (Hopefully. :-) BACKGROUNDMy story should sound familiar to most of you here: B1. I have high-speed and overpriced broadband Internet service to my home from an ISP. B2. I use the ISP's all-in-one modem/router/firewall/WIFI-AP box, which I will now refer to as a "modem". And I use it in Bridge Mode. B3. The above modem has 2 LAN ports. B4. I have lots of consumer-level routers, because I'm too cheap to throw out "good hardware that might come in handy one day". (e.g. Linksys, TPLink, ASUS, etc.) They are all LAN/WAN/WiFi/router/firewall/NAT combo boxes. B5. All the routers are flashed with dd-wrt (or equivalent), so things like VLANs, multiple SSIDs, AP/Net-isolation, etc. are available to me. B6. I have a collection of "family" PCs, tablets, cellphones, etc. on the network. In other words, trusted devices that I own/manage. B7. The above (B6) devices, and only the (B6) devices, require access to "NAS". NAS is our precious (wait for it) NAS. B8. I also have a collection of evil IoT devices (e.g. media streamers, smart door openers, IP cameras, etc.) QUESTIONSQ1. How would YOU carve up this network such that it more-or-less separates the "trusted" devices from the "untrusted"? Q2. Presuming that your answers will fall generally in the "VLANs" or "routers" camp: Why/When would YOU choose one over the other? (For what it's worth, my gut says that physical networks, with routers, would be more secure and more efficient than using VLANs, but I might be wrong. Either way, I'm open to all good feedback.) Is it inefficient to use both VLANs and multiple routers to segment? Q3. In (Q1), I say "more-or-less separates" because I realize there are certain devices/scenarios that aren't so clean cut. e.g. a Smart TV that streams from Netflix (untrusted) and from your personal media server (trusted). Or the scenario where a fully untrusted device has to be managed/monitored from a trusted device. Is there a general way these types of devices/scenarios are handled? In other words, "segmentation" isn't my end-game here -- it's only the starting point. I still want to be able to span VLANs/subnets when I need to, at least in one direction. (Or is that generally frowned upon?) Q4. Is segmenting even the best approach here? Perhaps there's another (more efficient/flexible?) way of introducing network security that cares less about WHERE in the network you live, but evaluates other criteria instead? CONSIDERATIONSWhen (or after) answering the above, I'd like you to please consider the following: C1. [Cost/Effort]: I'm not cheap or lazy, but (see B4) I feel I have ALL that is required for the job: the routing, firewall rules, NAT... that should all be possible with my army of dd-wrt routers. Let's get creative! C2. [VPN]: I'm too paranoid for this now, but at some point I might want to access NAS remotely. I'm guessing "VPN" is the answer here? And from what I've read, WireGuard seems to be the winner. Do y'all suggest running a dedicated VPN server on my network? If so, would that sit in the trusted or untrusted side? If not a server, can it be a service running on an existing always-on network device, like a router or NAS? C3. [WIFI]: Some of my devices (from B6/B8) are wired and some are wireless. Keep in mind that not all my IoT devices are wireless. So, to me, the approach should be to design a SECURE and properly routed network first, and THEN worry about where to enable WIFI WAPs. Do you think otherwise? (Remember B4: I'm not too worried about trying to "cram" all WAP points - trusted and untrusted - onto 1 router. I can drop in separate physical h/w if it's better to do so.) C4. [NAS Restrictions]: B7 isn't entirely true. Let's say I have at least 1 machine (a child's tablet, for example) that shouldn't have access to NAS, yet is still considered "trusted". I believe this device should still be on the same trusted network as the "adult devices" (which do have access to NAS), so that the child device can be managed by the adults. Would that require a network/routing redesign? C5. [DNS filtering]: I like services like OpenDNS. If I'm looking at a network that's roughly split in half (trusted vs untrusted) then I've got no problem directing the entire untrusted side to a common DNS server. It's not as straightforward for the trusted half, though. Within that half, I'd like the flexibility of determining which device (or at least which subnet) gets which DNS server. I've had good luck doing that with custom firmware on the router, but only for wifi APs. Would it be just as easy for wired segments (routed or VLANs), or is there a better way? C6. [Routing]: Because of B3, I chose to wire 2 routers directly to the modem: one in each modem's LAN port. While this provides quick and secure segregation between "trusted" and "untrusted", I notice I'm running into the issues of Q3 more often. I'd like to keep my modem in Bridge mode, but then it seems I can't route between my 2 LAN networks. Do I need to introduce a new router "after the modem" to allow for routing between the 2 segmenting routers? Or is there a better way? (i.e. Your thoughts on daisy-chaining 2 or more routers together, from their LAN <--> WAN ports? I feel I gain in flexibility but lose (a bit) in security.) C7. [Bridged vs. Gateway]: Similar to above. I prefer the control, speed, privacy, and lack of NAT when I run in bridge mode. Is there any good case for flipping back to gateway mode? In my case, it would give me the routing between "trusted" and "untrusted" that I'm looking for... but I'd still prefer to accomplish that with another h/w router. Or VLANs? C8. [NAS Pt. 2]: I feel that NAS and the "trusted devices" (B6) should live on the same network segment. Is that cool, or would you make the case that NAS can/should go behind another router - either for security reasons, or else for flexibility in routing? (Remember B4. Lots of routers. :-) C9. [SSID switching]: This seems related to (Q3) and (C6), but it's annoying nonetheless. First off, I get it - your network can either be very secure or else very convenient, but rarely both at the same time. Currently, I find myself having to switch, several times a day, between different WIFI SSIDs in order to access various resources. I've almost fully convinced myself that this is just a necessary evil of true segregation. But there's gotta be a better way, right? Lots to take in, I know. Sorry. :-) But I do thank you all in advance for reading and attempting to shed some light. [link] [comments] | ||
| Cheapest multi-Gbps router solution? Posted: 28 Jan 2022 05:45 AM PST I'm building a network from scratch and I'd like it to be 2.5G. (By the time faster internet than that is offered, the faster equipment to handle it will be way cheaper). I'm thinking ONT --> MoCA adapter --> (some router) --> 2.5G unmanaged 8-port switch --> Unifi 6 Pro AP At the moment, I'm considering routing with a pfsense VM on ProxMox and adding this 4 port 2.5G adapter to the server. The server would be a new Intel NUC i5 with lots of RAM and fast SSD. This is the cheapest solution since i'm planning on using the VM server for other things anyways (Home Assistant, etc). Am I missing an obvious solution? [link] [comments] | ||
| Does something this stupid happened to you? Posted: 28 Jan 2022 01:56 AM PST Hello, So, I had a problem with setting up two routers, I have even posted here. Problem was I could not make second router work in access point mode. I tried everything and with help of some guys we was diagnosing it few days. I could not make it work, But today I found out ethernet cable was wired wrongly. ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ Cable was working when plugged in notebook, So I never thought about it could be wored wrongly. More than month I was without WiFi, Using ethernet in laptop and mobile data on phone, All because fúcking wire ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ [link] [comments] | ||
| SMB over wifi is 1/10 of the link speed Posted: 28 Jan 2022 05:28 AM PST Hello, first of all, stop the Mbit vs MB debate, I'm not that uneducated, anyways all numbers I'll share will be in Mbps (Mbits) I searched everywhere but all the answers were really unhelpful and most of the time it was down to the user having bad wifi connection or 100Mbit Ethernet or something similar. I run SMB on raspberry pi 4B and the drive is connected through USB3. The Pi is connected directly to the router via a 1Gbit ethernet. When i write to the SMB from my PC which is also connected to the router via 1Gbit, the write speed to the SMB server is about 880Mbit, which is pretty good since there is always some overhead. When i copy files from my phone (benchmarked R/W from internal to internal, i get 300MB/s, about 2500Mbit, connected to AC wifi - link speed shows up 866Mbit, using WiFi speed test - app for measuring local speed, not internet speed - shows half of the link speed, at around 450Mbit which is also pretty fine as the IP/TCP protocol will always run at half the link speed due to overhead and stuff) the transfer never exceeds 100Mbit, that's about 10MB/s over wifi. That's 1/10 of the transfer speed over Ethernet. Why is that my wifi speed is 400Mbit but the transfer is only 100Mbit? It doesn't make any sense to me. Does the raspberry pi deal differently with packets sent from a device that is connected via Ethernet vs wifi? Could the router be the bottleneck not handling too many packets? Even then i dont understand why the WIFI SPEED test shows 400Mbit but smb would only do 100Mbit. Maybe there's a piece of information I'm missing in order for my brain to click and get an idea, but I'm literally out of ideas. And copying at 100Mbit over local network is not sufficient in this era. Thanks to everyone for ideas. I'm open to experimentation. Edit: router in question is RT-AC59U V2. I'm not sure if changing wifi packets to Ethernet packets is somehow intensive for the router, i can't test that because my ISP only provides 30Mbit. Could it be that the router can't keep up with sending the packets from wlan interface to lan? That's the only idea i have. But again. The TCP speed to the router itself if 400Mbit, i have doubts that by the time it reaches my Pi, the speed is 1/4th of that. [link] [comments] | ||
| Netgear EX7000 Repeater Outta Nowhere Only Works On Fastlane (one band at a time) Posted: 28 Jan 2022 12:11 AM PST I have a Netgear EX7000 repeater that has worked fine for years until yesterday: I don't know if my cable provider sent a update to the modem that created compatibility issues, but I eventually had to reconfigure it to make the 5gHz band visible all the time so the repeater could see it and connect. The problem is I originally had it set to the "basic configuration" that allows it to connect to 2.4 and 5 gHz and broadcast out in both as well. This no longer works- the only configuration I can get working is to mimic fastlane or just officially use fastlane which means I can connect to only one band from the modem and broadcast in only one band that is the alternate (2.4 from the modem and 5 out or 5 from the modem, 2.4 out). I didn't update the FW recently, though it's on the latest. It's picking up all bands from the modem. I've tried changing channels on the modem broadcast, but it doesn't do anything. All I want it to do is to pick up all bands and broadcast all bands like it used to. Anyone have experience with this? Also, what it does when there's the bad configuration- the two bands when they are selected to operate for broadcast they are visible to all my devices, but no connection is possible. It's beyond annoying and I spent hours on this and finally reset the modem which helped, as I think the cable operator updated it and it didn't restart according to the logs. I saw a bunch of posts similar, but not exact, and a partial resolution was to downgrade the FW which I tried and it didn't change anything. I just don't understand why I can't broadcast from the repeater in the same band as the input all of a sudden. The other band is visible, but no devices are able to connect to it. [link] [comments] | ||
| ISP Modem/router combo with aftermarket router Posted: 27 Jan 2022 09:56 PM PST Ive got Rogers (Canada) gigabit internet with a white coda 4582 modem router combo unit and it's always dropping signal, needing reset, range isn't good enough and I think I also have too many devices connected to it. In any case I plan to buy a better router. Wifi 6 beam forming or mesh etc etc. i believe all I have to do to achieve this is to put the coda in bridge mode so it disables gateway functions and strictly acts as a modem, allowing my own router plugged in to be the main only router for my network. This is how I want it to be. Is this all I have to do? I have been doing lots of reading and it seems sometimes people have issues and it's not as easy as it seems. Thanks. [link] [comments] | ||
| Options to get internet to a house that is about 500m from the road. Posted: 28 Jan 2022 12:00 AM PST I'm looking for possible options to get internet to a house that is about 500m from the road. The ISP has quoted a price of $14,000 to run a line to the house. So basically any option that is less than that price would be ideal. I've looked in to using some kind of long range wireless bridge or burying a line ourselves but I don't know much about either of those things so was hoping I could get some advice. edit: I can get basically any kind of construction equipment for free. [link] [comments] | ||
| MiniPC with dual 2.5GB ports OR PCIe slot for pfsense Posted: 27 Jan 2022 11:52 PM PST Hi, Does anyone know of a minipc (low power is preferred) that has dual 2.5GB ports -- or a PCIe slot that I can pop a half-height QNAP dual 2.5GB NIC into -- that would be appropriate to install and run pfsense (and route at 2GB speeds)? I'm trying to avoid getting a full/small desktop. I'd really like something fitlet/NUC/netgate/protectli sized (and powered) but I can't find anything with dual 2.5 or a PCIe slot. Thanks, [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 27 Jan 2022 11:49 PM PST Hi, I'm thinking of switching to AT&T's new fiber service. It looks like I'd be forced to use their BGW320 as the "modem" but I have the option to bypass it and use my own router. I don't intend to use it's WiFi - I have my own multi-AP network already. However, is there any reason I shouldn't use it as my router (i.e. is it insecure/defeatured)? I should add I currently use a Netgear router and I'm not using it for anything fancy - I don't use VPN, just port forwarding, DHCP, Dynamic DNS, custom DNS server address. [Edit: I see in a couple other posts it doesn't support Dynamic DNS or a custom DNS server. Can anyone confirm?] Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 27 Jan 2022 07:59 PM PST I bought a 100 ft spool of Cat 5e Riser cable. The intent was to make a 20 ft cable to run from my UDM to my AP. I've never made a cable before and I wanted to learn how. I bought all of the necessary tools and a cable tester. I tested my 20 ft cable and it came back as passed. When I plugged it into the ap, the ap lit up (suggesting it was definitely getting power) but the light on my UDM didn't light up. it was also undiscoverable by my UDM. I gave in and tried it on a store bought cable and it was discoverable. I then tried to make a smaller cable, thinking the other one was somehow damaged. However this cable didnt work either. Somehow the home made ones are sending power but not data? I've triple checked both cables and the colors are in the correct order. I'm not quite sure what I'm doing wrong. Any ideas? [link] [comments] | ||
| Will LED Strip interfere with ethernet cat6 UTP cable Posted: 27 Jan 2022 11:43 PM PST I have scoured the surface web and get mixed results. Some say it can severely impact their connection throughput; Yet others said the nature of twisted pairs in cat6 UTP were already designed to minimize EMI/RFI interference so there shouldn't be any problem. As for my setup, I am planning to route a 15m UTP cable from router in central location to bedroom where a TV will be installed. The LED strip will be placed behind the tv and likewise, the ethernet cables will either touch or be within direct hrmm whats the word AOE of LED Strip EMI I guess. I've bought UTP cables just before sudden realization led lights emit electromagnetic properties too! Plus many said stp cable was an overkill to use on home setup. can i mitigate some of the emi by using ferrite cores/ring, or do I have to buy another STP cables? [link] [comments] | ||
| Rural CA internet possibilities... Posted: 27 Jan 2022 08:18 PM PST Hello all, I am not savvy with internet but I am a little tech savvy, used to build my own computers and what not. I live 2.5 miles from a small California town on highway 80. My first internet option was a dish installed in a tree on my property. The tree is now marked to be removed, on top of this, the last storm in the area caused a tree to sever the connection to the dish anyway, so regardless not a usable tree anymore. I wanted to try another company because the previously mentioned company is charging me 169$/mo for 8mbps with only 400gb of data. The new company (offered 20mbps 2000 gb for only 105/mo) attempted to get a connection up in a tree today but could not get one, they did tell me that they saw the initial company I am still currently with, which is in fact the closest tower. Is there another way I can stream/play my games or just have a better option than 169$ for 8mbps and only 400gb of data. We are looking at all the netgear nighthawk routers and using ATT data sim cards but that seems like its hit or miss for my area and doesn't always accommodate enough data connection or tethering jargon or something that you smart people know about! Just looking for a solution to get better internet for a better price! Worst case right now is i stick with the original 169/mo 8mbps/400gb and HOPE they find another tree to install the dish on... but if they cant find one... then what? I have 1.9 acres and am not afraid to install something, and am currently in the process of trying to cut as many trees down as possible but i am no arborist. Thank you all i am glad i found this sub! [link] [comments] | ||
| Aruba instant go vs Meraki Go vs Unifi Posted: 27 Jan 2022 01:56 PM PST Hello all I am looking to replace my home eero network as I am having some issues with them. I have narrowed down my options to one of these providers. I would be using one 8 port switch and 2 or 3 access points with them in a mesh. Does anyone have any suggestions for which to go with. I have used all of these in my job as a network engineer so set up and configuration is not a concern of mine. Just looking for some advice of what people are using in their home networks. [link] [comments] | ||
| Coax 2-Way Splitter to 2 MoCA adapters? Posted: 27 Jan 2022 05:38 PM PST
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| XT8 and HomePod Mini 301014 Error Posted: 27 Jan 2022 10:47 PM PST Hi, I have several HomePod and Mini at home, some of them have 301014 Error when setup, sometimes even messed up HomeKit control, but it is strange the problem will be gone if the HomePod Mini connected to Mesh Node instead of main unit. Any idea what is the problem? [link] [comments] | ||
| Stand-alone router/gateway (2.5Gbe +) Posted: 27 Jan 2022 06:54 PM PST Are there any good options for 2.5Gbe routers/gateways that are not all-in-one? I have a 16 port unifi switch and AP. I'm currently using my ISP provided fiber router (Bell Home Hub 3000) as my router. But I'd love to buy a stand-alone router with an SFP port and has at least 2.5Gbe. Thanks Edit: I meant SFP+ port [link] [comments] |
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