Home Networking Buy Protectli Vault in Europe? |
- Buy Protectli Vault in Europe?
- Ethernet vs Wifi
- Just moved into my first house. Am I setup for internet?
- Complete noob question, don't kill me. If I want to extend the signal of my wifi and a switch already installed somewhere in the house can I just connect an access point to the switch and set it up, and I'm good?
- How do i know if its time to replace my router ?
- Why am ı getting better ping with 2.4 ghz band?
- looking for free port scanner with web interface alternative to nmap!
- Tp link ac1200
- New house internet setup questions
- Inter-VLAN traffic
- Looking for USB wifi plug switches
- Aimesh Question with 2 nodes
- Speed from router ~1/2 speed direct from Modem
- How to create a private network within a captive portal setup?
- Is my network safe?
- Trying to isolate 2 devices on a vlan due to excessive multicast traffic
- Trilithic Catv meter for docsis?
- Ethernet ports in all rooms are dead
- Arris IPv6 questions
- I'm giving up on AiMesh, and ASUS' wireless
- Is this an Ethernet Cable? If so what Kind? What type of RJ45 plug should be used?
- Smtp relay service that is cheap and work both ways?
- Issue with ASUS AiMesh not auto switching between devices.
- 12 VDC UPS for network hardware
- A journey to getting a good signal on the second floor
| Buy Protectli Vault in Europe? Posted: 31 Dec 2020 01:07 PM PST Hi, is there a european reseller? I haven't been able to find one. Buying it directly from https://protectli.com and getting it shipped plus import duties and taxes sadly adds another $100 on top. That is too much :( [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Dec 2020 05:16 PM PST I've got a bit of a dilemma here. So after some troubleshooting because of my lack of understanding of consoles and tvs I was thinking pretty much anything made in the last 5 years is going to come with a 1 Gbps ethernet port built in. Wrong. So my TV, PS4, and the Xfinity flex I have all connect via 100 FDX or 100 Mbps max. In contrast the wifi for all these devices connect on the 5 ghz band and will get 130-200+ Mbps. Should I be too worried? From my understanding the actual bandwidth of gaming off a console will be a tiny faction of the 100 Mbps connection, and even though the TV is designed for 4k from my understanding that won't use more than 25 Mbps. The benefit of the ethernet connection is it will provide a more reliable connection, lower latency, and less air time on my access point. [link] [comments]  |
| Just moved into my first house. Am I setup for internet? Posted: 31 Dec 2020 07:43 AM PST This is the current setup as far as I can tell. Can I just plug and play a router into that small white box (what is that?)? Advice? Thanks! **edit: could this be it?! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Dec 2020 08:06 AM PST The access point will use the same login information as my existing wifi router, right? It won't create a new login and password? [link] [comments]  |
| How do i know if its time to replace my router ? Posted: 31 Dec 2020 02:38 AM PST Hello internet pros, I am not knowledgeable at all about networking so my post might come up as a stupid inquiry but basically it's been around 3-4 years I have been using a basic go to tp-link router and recently have been facing some issues over wifi such as significant loss of signal from just a couple of rooms away and stuff like that. Also standing right next to the router on my iPhone and iPad I get up to 20mbps downloads tested on the ookla app but over ethernet on my PC I get up to 90mbps which is what I am paying for. I was wondering if it's possible to get those speeds over wifi? if so does that mean my router is damaged and it's time to replace it? my router is the older version of this model [link] [comments]  |
| Why am ı getting better ping with 2.4 ghz band? Posted: 31 Dec 2020 06:37 PM PST hi everyone. ı just moved a new house couple weeks ago and my internet has ; 50mb download 6mb upload speed. ı am using tp-link t2u plus wifi adapter(dual band 2.4ghz - 5.0ghz) [link] [comments]  |
| looking for free port scanner with web interface alternative to nmap! Posted: 31 Dec 2020 03:58 PM PST hey I'm looking for a free port scanner tool that scans my whole network multiple time in the day,, different subnet for open ports ( specific ports like default ssh 22, etc, ) then export report daily for hosts that have open ports host 192.168.88.34 port 80 open , time 1:46 am , 1/1/2021 the output should be in txt,html or csv file I did this with the Nmap command but m I'm looking for other tools, use Nmap but with other features like a web interface the idea in my mind is to script Nmap to do scan multiple time on the day and export the results to CSV or txt on the folder that I enable sync on one drive so every night I open my one drive folder and see the result. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Dec 2020 01:37 PM PST Is this router good for gaming? Will it last? Is it good for its price or is there better recommendations? Apologies for lack of knowledge I'm new to this [link] [comments]  |
| New house internet setup questions Posted: 31 Dec 2020 02:49 PM PST I'd like to be efficient about this as I possibly can. So here's the scenario: We moved into a 3 story townhome with a single car garage. The FiOS box is mounted next the garage, initially they the one keystone jack going into the kitchen, this is where the router has been since we moved in. The house has been wired for 1 jack per level however only the kitchen/second floor jack was crimped and connected. The other two lines were just there, and are at the moment, dead as far as I can tell. I wanted all 3 jacks to be active so I contacted a technician for them to come see what they could do. We settled on placing the FiOS G1300 router in the garage and connected each of the wall jacks to the LAN ports on the G1300. Again neither 3rd floor or 1st floor lines seem to work, so I'll need to rerun them. I also have my own router I've been using in the kitchen that was the primary router (the G1300 was a spare) but is now technically just an AP. The router in the kitchen (a Netgear R7800) is only receiving speeds of 100/100 even though prior to this it was receiving 900/900. Not sure what happened there. Basically I have 2 routers and 3 ethernet jacks in the house I'd like to all be active. The router in the garage doesn't have to have wifi on but it would provide additional coverage, which would be nice. Regardless, I need the speeds to the main router/AP in the kitchen to be what they were prior to this switch. Do I put the G1300 in bridge mode? Is it something else entirely? Why are my speeds 1/10th of what they were when using the G1300 as a middle man? What's the best way to configure this? I'd preferably like to get a patch panel and wire everything in somewhere more convenient than the garage but for now how do I set this up? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Dec 2020 02:44 PM PST If I have a NAS on one VLAN, a PC on a different VLAN and a single 1Gbps trunk from the switch to the router, when transferring from the NAS to the PC, will my theoretical transfer speed limit be 500Mbps, because the NAS is sending up 500Mbps and the PC is downloading 500Mbps, using the full 1Gbps, or is it full duplex, so the NAS can send 1Gbps up the line and then the PC pull 1Gbps back down the line? I'm using phantom equipment in my hypothetical, if but if matters, I can get some actual models of wired router and switch that I'm considering. [link] [comments]  |
| Looking for USB wifi plug switches Posted: 31 Dec 2020 08:30 PM PST Needing some assistance, I'm looking to buy a plug with usb built in that can be controlled via wifi. I currently see a lot of them that work with a standard plug and the switch can be turned on or off but the ones i see that also have a usb port is just designed for charging purposes and can't be controlled via the app to turn the usb on and off. So I can't seem to find one that does exactly that, I want to be able to plug a usb device into the port and then be able to control it via turning it on and off. I currently own one that looks like this but the usb part of it doesn't work with the built in wifi part of it. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Dec 2020 04:39 PM PST So I currently have ax88u aimeshed with ax58u in a 2 story home thinking of adding another ax58u as a node to cover remaining dead zone on 2nd floor would that work? And does it pull from main router or daisy chains from 1st node? Thanks In advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Speed from router ~1/2 speed direct from Modem Posted: 31 Dec 2020 04:31 PM PST Long story short, I have been having a lot of issues with Optimum in general, however now the issue appears to be related to my router config. I have a 1gbps package with Optimum. If I connect my PC directly to my modem and run a speedtest I get ~700-800mbps which is what I would expect. When I connect my router and run the speedtest I am seeing a max of 450mbps. I initially discovered this with a tier 2 optimum tech at my home, so I thought my router was failing (Linksys EA9300) so I decided to purchase a new router as I was considering upgrading to WiFi 6 anyway. So I purchased a TP-Link Archer AX6000. Got everything setup and configured, ran a speedtest and saw the same 450mbps. I then decided to test my modem again, and I immediately got ~750mbps. Reconnected the router, swapped to a brand new Cat7 cable to my PC (plugged into Realtek 2.5gb LAN port) and I got ~750mbps down. Connected to my Intel 1gb LAN port, because the latency was fluctuating on the other port, and back to ~450mbps. Reconnected to the 2.5gb port and now only getting ~450mbps. Restarted the computer, same speed issue. QoS is enabled on my router for my PC. Tested my Apple TV wired, same 450mbps. iPhone 12 Pro (wifi 6 compatible) and I get around 350mbps. Is there something I am missing in my configuration that is causing the drop in speeds? I have tested with multiple cables from modem to router and router out to devices and I always seem to be capped at 450mbps except for the one test I ran after swapping cables to my PC. [link] [comments]  |
| How to create a private network within a captive portal setup? Posted: 31 Dec 2020 12:45 PM PST So at my apartment complex, wifi is included in the bill. It is really good as far as strength, reliability, and speed. However, it is annoying for any devices that need to communicate over the network with each other. It is also annoying when setting up any devices without access to a browser because of the captive portal. If I buy a router and plug it up to the min switch built in the wall, can I create a subnetwork that works like a traditional home network? I am so tired of this captive portal mess. The internet speed max is 300mbps in my apartment. It is currently a dualband setup and WIFI6. I was thinking about plugging this router up https://www.walmart.com/ip/NETGEAR-AC1000-Dual-Band-Smart-Wi-Fi-Router-R6080-100NAS/124970096 How do I go about make this work? Do i have to do anything special in the configuration of the router? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Dec 2020 04:29 PM PST Sorry if this is a frequently asked question, but here's my situation, My dad is concerned about me setting up a Minecraft server on a dell t310 I started setting up today because he has sensitive job related information on his pc The server is connected to the router and is port forwarded (I used This tutorial to set the server) and My dad's computer is connected to a VPN (I understand VPNs are very secure but I was concerned if this can override the security) I will take the post down once I get an answer, thank you in advance. Edit: if there is a security problem I would appreciate if I could be linked a way to fix the issue [link] [comments]  |
| Trying to isolate 2 devices on a vlan due to excessive multicast traffic Posted: 31 Dec 2020 08:10 PM PST So I installed a pair of hdmi over ip tx/rx today in order to get a video feed from my basement to another location. It works... however I installed experienced issues with my wifi devices being bogged down. Since I am using 2 managed switches (TL-SG116E and a Fastiron CX 648) I decided to try to throw the two ports onto a vlan. I created a port specific vlan on the TPLink switch, as well as the brocade, however I am not sure how the vlan tag will be passed between the two switches over the LAG ports. Will this cause an issue? I have linked a graphic to help explain the network layout. I just wanted to make sure before I go any further and take something else down. Thank you in advance [link] [comments]  |
| Trilithic Catv meter for docsis? Posted: 31 Dec 2020 08:08 PM PST Will a trilithic model one catv meter work to analyze my spectrum internet? I want to make sure my signal strength is the best it can be at +5dbmv. [link] [comments]  |
| Ethernet ports in all rooms are dead Posted: 31 Dec 2020 08:02 PM PST I've looked for an answer in many places and including youtube videos. Unfortunately cannot find something that could help me to resolve my issue. I've purchased a house couple of weeks ago and got Verizon guy come and install internet. After connecting all cables he said that all 5 ethernet ports in different rooms are live. I didnt have my laptop at that time and was not able to check. After i've moved in last week i've tried to connect Eero system and Lockly lock but found out ethernet ports are dead. It's just strange that all ports are dead. If i had only couple i could assume that it is possible but with 5 cables running to different rooms in different floors its weird. Or is it possible that all 5 damaged at the same time? Maybe im missing some scenarios here but would appreciate if someone could share their experiences and help... [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 31 Dec 2020 07:15 PM PST Simply put I am having issues trying to find and enable IPv6 on the router page for my arris modem/router- The model is SBG7400AC2. I called to make sure my ISP was IPv6 compliant and they were. If anyone has knowledge on this subject I would very much appreciate it! [link] [comments]  |
| I'm giving up on AiMesh, and ASUS' wireless Posted: 31 Dec 2020 09:24 AM PST I'll share my drama and hope for the best. Hopefully, someone more knowledgeable will point out my mistakes with this setup. I've had an Asus ROG Rapture GT-AC5300 router for about 1.5 years now. It works really well, almost incredible. Then I moved from an apartment to a 3-store house. Knowing I'd need decent coverage on all floors, here's what I did:
Having restored the main router to its factory settings, I kept tweaks to it minimal. Still, after adding that AiMesh node while getting the 'incorrect password' errors, I was getting messages like the below on the primary device's Syslog: I don't know exactly where the problem lies, but most of the symptoms to me are pointing to AiMesh at the moment. I just hoped things would... work, you know? Edit: grammar [link] [comments]  |
| Is this an Ethernet Cable? If so what Kind? What type of RJ45 plug should be used? Posted: 31 Dec 2020 07:05 PM PST This wire runs from my house to a detached garage. It was connected to a telephone jack (R11) in the garage. I have seen videos on YouTube where people are able to use phone lines for internet. I tried putting a cat5 RJ45 end but wires were too thick. Tried a cat6 end and still seems wires are too thick. Is this an Ethernet Cable? Could it be used to carry internet? If so what type of Plug should I use for connect to router/switch? [link] [comments]  |
| Smtp relay service that is cheap and work both ways? Posted: 31 Dec 2020 03:16 PM PST I host my own mail server and the mailboxes. I need an outgoing smtp relay so I can use its reputation and an incoming one that would be backup mx and that could keep my emails if my server is down. What service would you recommend? Edit: if it could be in Europe that be even better. [link] [comments]  |
| Issue with ASUS AiMesh not auto switching between devices. Posted: 31 Dec 2020 06:59 PM PST I have a pair of AC68U routers with latest firmware. One is running as mesh router, and the other as mesh node. The signal is showing up as "Great" in the settings, but for some reason the devices (phones and laptops) don't auto switch to closest device possible, so if I'm near the main, and then go to the room with the node, the device will still pull the internet from the main, meaning the speed is slower, and signal is poor. Only way for me to get on the node is to disable WiFi on the device, and then turn it back on. Only then the device will connect to the node. Then when I go back to the main's room, it's the same issue again. I've set Roaming Assistant (Wireless > Professional, under 2.4 & 5 GHz) to -65 from default, which was like -70. That didn't help. My TX Power is set to "Good". Universal Beamforming is off. I think everything else is at default. I used a single SSID for all bands and devices. I've had a different mesh setup in the past, and the bases always auto switched based on their signals, but here I can't figure out what's going on. edit: The speeds are also a bit inconsistent with WiFi. I'm on FIOS 200/200. My wired desktop gets 310/340. My laptop, which usually gets around 500/500 on a gigabit connection gets 260/270. My iPhone gets 300/320. These wireless devices get under 180/190 in the room with the node. The signal there is around 70-80%. [link] [comments]  |
| 12 VDC UPS for network hardware Posted: 31 Dec 2020 11:03 AM PST Hi Everyone. Looking for some advice or possibly exact instructions on how I can cobble together a DC to DC UPS for my router/switches. The power blinked out the other day, and the only disruption to our day was the wifi/internet. I'd like to have an hour's worth of backup DC so that I have time to hook up a generator if the power is actually going to stay out. I saw this, which made me want to, but unable to find a "larger" DC to DC UPS that could handle my equipment. My equipment: Router is 9V/0.6A Sw1 is 5v/1A POEsw1 is 48v/1.25A 3 APs run off the POE switch Step converters are about 95% efficiency so I figured I need around 8 AH of 12V to get me around 1 hour of backup power. My layman's parts list so far. 12V/30Amp DC power supply (overkill but good price) 12V to 48V/2A 12V to 9V/2A 12V to 5V/3A 2 batteries for about 10AH of 12VDC I was hoping someone out there has already done this and can provide a working solution that I can just start connecting without a lot of thought. Thanks for reading and Happy New Year!! [link] [comments]  |
| A journey to getting a good signal on the second floor Posted: 31 Dec 2020 02:28 PM PST A update on my last post: The router was moved out of the fish tank room by the ISP and now it sits in the basement since there are no other Ethernet ports anywhere in the house. The issue is I still can't get an even mildly mediocre signal upstairs. After reading up on this sub I bought a Ubiquiti AP Lite and set that up in the basement but that now needs to be wired to the second floor for it help the cause. Is there a better way of doing this that I should know about before I commit to wiring this thing upstairs and then hoping for the best again? [link] [comments]  |
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