Home Networking In your opinion what's the most reliable brand of disk drive? |
- In your opinion what's the most reliable brand of disk drive?
- Basic question, looking for simple answer. Our Netgear router died last night. Need to go get new one. What’s the difference between a $50 one and a $130 one? Old Basin $50 Netgear one worked fine for years, family of five using.
- Thought on using "Band Steering," vs. having a 2.4 and 5 network.
- VLANs for a Beginner
- (Help wanted) automatically switch wifi when speed goes below a certain limit
- Best firmware for Asus ac66u?
- New house, suggestions for wiring for >=10GBase-T?
- [Advice Requested]I have a couple questions regarding my proposed setup. Also open to suggestions/improvements to equipment or design. Thanks!
- I received a Motorola MB8600 and an Asus RT-AX88U as gifts. Should I use them?
- Rogue AP Detected by UniFi AP Lite
- Reliable router with range?
- Are DNS queries automatically forwarded somehow?
- Why does my router show DoS Attack ICMP flood blocked? What are people trying to do to me?
- Cell Phone Interference with WiFi
- Eliminating latency spikes?
- 10 gb to the desktop?
- Termination for single run to ONT
- Apple devices don't work on wifi
- Help fixing friend's router. Can I unplug it and bring it to my house to turn on wifi?
- ProtonVPN - Worth the cost?
- Guest House Plex Server
- Strange PPPoE pass-through issue
- Cabling question for older cat5
- ISP has switched to IP v6, how do I access my server?
- Noob question regarding Unifi (VLANs for WiFi and stuff)
| In your opinion what's the most reliable brand of disk drive? Posted: 27 Dec 2019 12:32 PM PST Something for if you had to run it for years with no backup. (I know but I want to talk about drives only) [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Dec 2019 06:45 AM PST |
| Thought on using "Band Steering," vs. having a 2.4 and 5 network. Posted: 27 Dec 2019 03:43 PM PST I have a pretty good understanding of wifi. Because of this, I took the effort to wire an ethernet switch in my house for computer, PS4, Roku, and my tinkering and such like raspberry pi. My question is, I have always kept the devices that need high download speeds and we're close enough on the 5, and further away and less download intensive on the 2.4. furthermore, older devices couldn't use the 5, not so prevalent now, but that used to be a thing. With adding my Ethernet switch, would you use band steering in your house? Or continue to pick networks. A big reason I don't want to is the 5 in my room is spotty for laptop, and I like to be able to manually switch, but also concerned about network congestion. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Dec 2019 03:20 PM PST Hello. Let me preface this post by saying I'm pretty new to this so go easy on me. My router, a Tp-Link Archer C7 v5, has a vlan feature and I'm wondering if I can gain an additional layer of security by activating this feature. My understanding is that only devices on the same vlan can communicate with one another. If I only have 1 wired PC will this matter? The rest of my devices are connected via wifi. Also, what is the difference between 'Bridged Mode' and 'Custom'. Which would be proper or better to use? Custom asks me to input a vlan ID and the instructions in my manual say to check with my ISP (in this case Comcast/Xfinity) for the proper numbers. I cannot find any information on what numbers to use by doing a web search for them. Is my assumption that it doesn't matter what I enter as long as within the proper range correct? Thanks in advance for any response as I look for the knowledge to unlock the full potential of my router. Have a great day! [link] [comments]  |
| (Help wanted) automatically switch wifi when speed goes below a certain limit Posted: 27 Dec 2019 08:21 AM PST I have a couple of 4g sims with unlimited data, inside 4g to wifi /lan routers. The problem is that they have 1.5 gb data per day which is throttled down to 64kb , but doesnot get disconnected. The data limit resets the next day around midnight. The other problem is that they are fully paid for a year till sep 2020. I want to use the data but any load balancing switch does it only if diconnected, as a failover. Is ther any way i can set up to switch internet connections when the speed goes below a certain limit? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Dec 2019 04:45 AM PST Was gifted this old router and was wondering which firmware to put on. Do I do stock, Tomato (and if, which variant) or Merlin? I'm looking for something stable and secure. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| New house, suggestions for wiring for >=10GBase-T? Posted: 27 Dec 2019 07:57 AM PST Just sold my old house and moved into a new one. Ranch, 1952 construction, lath and plaster walls on concrete slab foundation. I'd like to wire for at least gigabit, but ideally up to 10-gigabit, which says to me Cat6a. Never wired a house before, so looking for guidance on good cable stock, patch panels, punchdown tools, jacks, the works. I have an attic but haven't really looked at it yet (on account of the other work the house needs). Also looking for the best way to cut/drill holes for datajacks without making a mess of the walls. I do already have a Netgear GS724T gigabit switch, but it's old and there may well be better options. Would want to have support for VLANs. Thanks! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Dec 2019 08:06 AM PST First things first, here is a layout of my proposed setup and also has the equipment I was planning on purchase to bring the setup to real life. Basically I have ethernet cable runs to ten locations. I would then like one access point, a connection to a printer, and a connection to my NAS. As poorly illustrated on the picture above (specifically not calling to a network diagram because I know I would get flamed), the basic structure I have for the system goes 200x10 internet service, connected to modem, connected to firewall, connected to switch1 daisychained to switch 2. The following equipment was to be purchased (very open to suggestions): Modem: Arris Surfboard 16x4 (SB6183) Firewall: USG-US Switch1: TP-Link TL-SG108PE Switch 2: TP-Link TL-SG108 Access Point: UAP-AC-LR The only other setup I've done in a similar fashion was all with Unifi/Ubiquiti because as a noob, I appreciated the GUI interface to learn more. This setup, although it has a lot of connections, is nothing major. Sharing files between computers using the NAS is the biggest thing I'll be doing, otherwise basic internet functions is all I need. Hopefully some of you smart and helpful people can answer a few questions for me.
I know these basic posts don't get much traction, but if someone just takes a quick skim and lets me know this system looks alright, that would really make my day. Thanks. [link] [comments]  |
| I received a Motorola MB8600 and an Asus RT-AX88U as gifts. Should I use them? Posted: 27 Dec 2019 09:34 AM PST I am not sure if this is the right sub, apologies if not. Backstory: A while ago I upgraded my girlfriend's ISP package from 60mbps to 1000 for a very small price increase. This allowed us both to work from home more often and made my online gaming more stable. It also made her very wealthy parents think I know much more about "the internet" than I actually do. Now we're married. Before the holidays her parents were over for dinner and I briefly talked about the upcoming generation of WiFi (they like to bring up the topic now). Xmas comes and I get the next-gen equipment mentioned in the title. I understand the gesture but WiFi 6 is not offered by our ISP yet (Comcast, Denver). Not to mention that it's complete overkill for our 1 bedroom apartment. We currently use a Motorola MB7420 and a Nighthawk R6700. We stream movies/shows all the time, and are on our laptops downloading and uploading files for work frequently. I play competitive games after work. Should I use the new equipment instead, or wait until there is some added benefit? If I do use them, are there settings I need to change to optimize the performance for AC instead of AX? TL;DR: Title [link] [comments]  |
| Rogue AP Detected by UniFi AP Lite Posted: 27 Dec 2019 08:50 AM PST I recently switched from AT&T internet to Comcast. Everything was fine but now I keep getting "Rogue AP Detected" alerts. I am pretty sure (maybe 82% sure) it is from the Comcast router. How do I confirm and how do I set my unifi ap lite know that it's good so I stop getting alerts? Edit: I am very non-technical so if you could eli5, it would be most helpful [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Dec 2019 07:42 PM PST I am looking at purchasing a router for my in-laws. The router is placed in the far corner of the house, which is roughly 1600 square foot house. The primarily will use Alexa and streaming music on the other end of the house. I'm not looking to break the bank since they won't be gaming. I'm looking for a router with good signal. The international speeds are 100mbps. The only router I have experience with is the nighthawk, if this is the more reliable route then I will purchase it. I'm looking for any recommendations, thanks in advance! [link] [comments]  |
| Are DNS queries automatically forwarded somehow? Posted: 27 Dec 2019 07:27 PM PST It occurred to me DNS uses UDP. How does a system behind NAT make a DNS query to an outside DNS server and receive it? Does a router intercept the query, get the answer itself, and then relay the answer back to the system? There is no open connection with UDP to match 1 to 1 so with lots of queries with lots of systems using NAT I don't see it working any other way. [link] [comments]  |
| Why does my router show DoS Attack ICMP flood blocked? What are people trying to do to me? Posted: 27 Dec 2019 07:25 PM PST Why would someone try to DoS me? I just casually search the internet and play video games online. [link] [comments]  |
| Cell Phone Interference with WiFi Posted: 27 Dec 2019 01:17 PM PST After weeks of research and experimentation, I finally figured out what was causing my crazy ping spikes and frequent hitching... my CELL PHONE SIGNAL (specifically LTE/5Ge) was interfering with my WiFi. Ok so I'm not a Network Engineer, so please forgive any terms that I misuse, but this is the gist of what I discovered: Cell data used to only be transmitted through designated frequencies/bands, licensed for cell companies. However, to help improve data speeds and reduce costs, cell companies have been recently utilizing 'unlicensed' frequencies - including the unlicensed frequencies that WiFi uses. This can cause WiFi interference - and ultimately lead to lag, ping spikes, and hitching... Testing You can use the hidden field test app on iPhone to determine the frequency of your cell if you are on iOS. I'm not sure how to check on other devices, but hoping someone with more expertise will be able to advise via comments. On iPhone, turn WiFi off Go to phone keypad Type in 3001#12345# Hit 'Call' and field test app will open From here you will see different signal types (eg LTE, UTMC, GSM etc) - The menu will be different based on the cell signals in your area and your service provider. My cell was using 5Ge - which is really LTE technology, so I clicked LTE. From there, I clicked "Serving Cell Info" and saw that my downlink frequency (dl_freq) was 5110 MHz or 5.11 GHz. This overlaps my 5GHz WiFi signal (5.1 GHz w my router). Interestingly, some phones in my house connected to a significantly different frequency of the same cell tower - and those frequencies did not interfere with our signal. I also found that reconnecting to the tower in any way (restarting phone, toggling cellular off/on, traveling) may connect you to another frequency. I was able to connect to a non-interfering frequency after restarting my phone. However this isn't always the case - found it to be random. Solutions/Work-Arounds
I turned off LTE on all devices in my house, and now have no more issues with my WiFi. Who would have guessed?! Obviously WiFi signal can be affected by various things... but wanted to pass this info along in case it helps! [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Dec 2019 07:03 PM PST I play a lot of multiplayer games and I randomly get really severe ping spikes. This often renders the game unplayable and I have to quit. My dad insists that he doesn't want to run ethernet cables, and refuses to try powerline adapters because he says that the frequency they run on interfere with his radios (he's a hobbyist). Whatever. The point is that WiFi is my only option. When I get a ping spike, I will sometimes ping my router through the command line. The ingame ping spike always lines up with the ping spike between my router and my computer. This means that there is interference between my computer and the router and not between my router and the game server, right? If this is the case, then I would like some help with reducing ping spikes. I have a pretty bad $10 USB WiFi n adapter for my computer, so that was my first guess with the problem. I have an Intel ax200 on the way to try and rule out all possibilities of the adapter being the problem (futureproofing is a bonus). Our router is an Apple AirPort Time Capsule. Could that be the problem? I've seen a lot of people having latency problems with this router but I'm not sure if that's my case as the latency between my adapter and router is around 1-3ms the majority of the time. I'm not sure if my parents would like to get a new router (they way overpaid for the apple router), but I'd be willing to get a new one myself if it fixes my problems. I'm assuming that I'd want a dd-wrt compatible router? Another thing worth noting is that I live in an apartment building and there are a lot of other WiFi networks in the area. This seems like the most probable cause of the problem, but how would I go about reducing it? My dad suggested setting up a WiFi range extender, but I'm not sure if this would help because our router is already quite close to my computer, with only 2 doors in between them (which I usually open to try and reduce material interference as much as possible). Would the range extender potentially solve the problem? Obviously I've put a lot of information into this post, but I've been very specific in hopes of getting better help. Sorry if it's too long. Thanks in advance for any help, I really do appreciate it. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Dec 2019 06:56 PM PST I recently had my ISP upgrade my internet connection to 10 gb. I really want to get the full speed to the desktop, as that's where I need it the most. The problem I'm facing is the mikrotik router ( Mikrotik CCR1036-8G-2S+). It would be easy if it had 10gb rj45 ports, but it doesn't. It does have 2 sfp+ ports on it but I'm assuming those are for a dual wan scenario. Is that correct? (Apologies for my ignorance on how this works). Can I use the other SFP+ port to connect to my Netgear? Anyone have any ideas ? Here is the configuration: My Isp comes in with their Juniper router that has an incoming/outgoing sfp+ port that connects into my mikrotik. I would then like to run fiber to my netgear (XS716E) 16 port 10 gb switch which has 1 sfp+ port. [link] [comments]  |
| Termination for single run to ONT Posted: 27 Dec 2019 12:53 PM PST I'm trying to figure out the best way to terminate this ethernet run. I have my fiber ONT mounted to a plywood board in a mechanical room in my basement. That's the ONLY network equipment in that room. I will have an ethernet cable run from that room to the router in my rack elsewhere. Ordinarily, I would always terminate a run like this in a patch panel, rather than putting an RJ45 connector directly on it. However, it seems kind of ridiculous to install a patch panel (I think 12 ports is the smallest available?) for a single cable. How do you handle this kind of situation? I guess if I had to pick the lesser of two evils I'd still do the patch panel, I can't be the only person who has run into this. Is there something I can buy that would basically give me a place to mount a single keystone jack, or effectively install a wall jack, but mounted on a board instead of recessed into a wall? Something else? [link] [comments]  |
| Apple devices don't work on wifi Posted: 27 Dec 2019 02:24 PM PST Hi, I have a peculiar problem that I haven't been able to solve for a while now. Our Apple devices (iPad, MacBook) will frequently drop from my wifi network, or connect to it but won't have internet access. This only happens to Apple devices as our Android and Windows devices all work fine. Has anyone seen this before or know what could be causing it? [link] [comments]  |
| Help fixing friend's router. Can I unplug it and bring it to my house to turn on wifi? Posted: 27 Dec 2019 05:47 PM PST So I was helping a friend connect to their wifi but they lost the password to it.I have no laptop i can bring to their house to connect via lan. Would it be possible to disconnect my friend's Router and take it to my home to set it up on my desktop?The router connects directly to the coaxial cable providing the connection from the ISP. It also connects my friend's phone to the landline. Would disconnecting the router permanently disrupt everything and make us have to call the ISP? The only device that relies on the router is the landline phone. Edit: I did reset the router but the WiFi turned itself on and back off when rebooting. Everything else rebooted and it stayed connected. [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 26 Dec 2019 11:40 PM PST I've been trying out ProtonVPN's premium service (free 7-day trial after signing up for ProtonMail) and I must say it's pretty quick. Only a few complaints (no access to Vudu overseas, apparently) but nothing major. Does anyone else here use the paid VPN service and find it worth the money? [link] [comments]  |
| Posted: 27 Dec 2019 05:21 PM PST So I have my computer and home media setup in our guest house and until now my network solution has been working fine. To make it as simple as possible the flow of signal goes Main router (router A with wifi connection A) sends Ethernet through power line adapters to kitchen. In the kitchen window sits (router B with wifi connection B) across the yard sits the guest house and in the window sits a wifi range extender connected to/boosting wifi connection B. Creating a new (wifi connection C). From this extender runs an Ethernet cable to a switch and the majority of the connections in the guest house are wired. So my problem is that the only way for my plex server(which will stay in the guest house im not moving it) to run and be accessible from outside the network is for my to run a port forward through my VPN (mullvad) and this is causing problems due to it crippling my upload speeds(that is, the server being on a VPN on all the time). So whenever I turn the vpn off and turn off the port forward ,Plex is telling me " It looks like your server may be connected to the internet through multiple routers or other network devices. Try connecting it directly to your primary device " So is there anyway to make router B just be an extension of router A and pass signal A to the extender Any and all help is greatly appreciated [link] [comments]  |
| Strange PPPoE pass-through issue Posted: 27 Dec 2019 12:16 PM PST Hello to all members of r/HomeNetworking! My home network setup is wired this way:
Router2 is there because the PTP bridge and I needed a better second Router (the ISP one is crap, SpeedPort Plus) to perform DHCP. Each one is on a different subnet and I know, it's a double NAT situation but this setup is going to be replaced soon with an all Unifi one (VLAN's, monitoring etc...). After configuring the setup mentioned above I stumbled upon an strange issue when trying to download files (always connected to Router2), the download would start normally and the just stop after approx 10-20% ("Network error" or the like), no differance if downloading on a laptop, mobile, wired, wireless, different sites/apps, always the same behavior but normal internet browsing, streaming, toorening all worked normal all the time. So to check if it was a potential double NAT issue Router2 was set in DMZ (nothing changed), next tried turning off the firewall on both routers (same result, nothing changed), the only temporary solution that worked was resetting the ISP_router (through it's web interface) and the downloads would perform normally for a couple of minutes and we were back to the issue from before. Then, in desperation (after banging my head against the wall and questioning my basic networking knowledge) I turned on the "PPPoE pass-through" feature under "Internet configuration" on the ISP_router and voila, everything works! Now you might think that how could I have overlooked this simple feature, setup the PPPoE protocol on the second router and eliminate one "hop" (NAT) the internet traffic has to make, thus increase reliability in some applications? Well that's the problem, I didn't setup the PPPoE credentials on Router2, only enabled the feature on the ISP_router!! How can this work at all and why did it solve my problem, why didn't the DMZ do the same? I'm not a novice in the networking world but this issue is driving me crazy. [link] [comments]  |
| Cabling question for older cat5 Posted: 27 Dec 2019 03:57 PM PST I just bought a home that is about 20 years old. It has cat5 (not cat5e) running to all rooms. On the 2 port wall plates it has two RJ45 jacks one of which says "c3" and the other says "c5 PS." What is the significance of the "PS?" I am planning on running a cat6 to an AP on each floor of the home for wireless access points but I would like to use these jacks for ethernet to computers, Roku, etc. I have 275 mbps from Comcast and from what I understand cat5 is only good for 100 mbps. Does anybody have any insight to what I can actually get out of this older cat5? I have never had internet speeds this fast available to me so I don't know if I should I update it all to cat6 to fully utilize the speeds? Or will I really even be able to notice? Here's a pic of the wall plate. Thanks in advance for your help! [link] [comments]  |
| ISP has switched to IP v6, how do I access my server? Posted: 27 Dec 2019 07:12 AM PST Hello! My ISP has switched to ipv6 with cgNAT for ipv4 meaning port forward on ipv4 no longer works. How do I access my synology NAS? I've tried setting up an open vpn on it and configured it to use ipv6 but I can't seem to connect from an ipv4 network (address unreachable). I've read about tunnelling but it doesn't seem friendly for accessing when on the road or using a mobile device. Any suggestions welcome! [link] [comments]  |
| Noob question regarding Unifi (VLANs for WiFi and stuff) Posted: 27 Dec 2019 03:52 PM PST Hey there. I don't know if what I want to achieve is technically possible. If not, I'm very open for alternative suggestions! Please bare with me since I've just now got my hands on my UniFi equipment and am still a total noob. So, I'd love to have a single SSID, let's say "MainWiFi" and have everyone joining that assigned a specific VLAN depending on their MAC - either Trusted, Management or - if the MAC isn't registered - a guest VLAN with a captive portal. Is this possible? If not - what'd be the next best way? Different SSIDs for every VLAN? I'm using two UniFi Mesh APs and one Mesh Pro, all being connected to a UniFi Controller. That's all ui-gear I have. Router/Firewall etc. is pfSense. I'm absolutly not new to networking in general, I've just never done anything advanced regarding wifi. [link] [comments]  |
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