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    Saturday, February 2, 2019

    Home Networking Tired of consumer routers, and finally becoming a homeowner, I'm trying to do a Ubiquiti setup but am not sure about a few things. Help/advice?

    Home Networking Tired of consumer routers, and finally becoming a homeowner, I'm trying to do a Ubiquiti setup but am not sure about a few things. Help/advice?


    Tired of consumer routers, and finally becoming a homeowner, I'm trying to do a Ubiquiti setup but am not sure about a few things. Help/advice?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 01:02 PM PST

    Hi friends,

    I've been scouring this subreddit for a while, and after a personal friend also recommended ubiquiti, and this subreddit speaks so highly of them, I have decided that I'm done dealing with weekly resets of our stupid Nighthawk AC1900 router.

    The wife and I bought this home in May, its about 12 years old I think? And when we moved in and got the keys I found a networking panel in the back of the master bed closet.

    For quick reference, the house is 3bedroom/2.5bathroom 2050~ sqft 3-story house.

    Floor 1) garage, kitchen, living room, half bath

    Floor 2) 2 spare bedrooms, bathroom, master bed and bath, laundry room

    Floor 3) loft/den

    The master is situated over the living room, the 2 spares are on the other side of the house over the garage. The loft is halfway over each. The stairs runs up from the kitchen, next to teh entrance to the garage, splitting the walkway between the two bedrooms section of the house and the direction to the master and the loft. I tried mocking up a floorplan but just couldn't do it in a feasible way. Sorry.

    A photo of the home networking box and other relevant photos are here.

    We currently have Gigabit Fiber from Cocmast. Using a Netgear docsis 3.1 compatible modem.


    What I've been researching/considering but still have questions about:

    I was looking at the UAP-AC-PRO-US to install on the second floor, preferably through the wall on the other side of where the networking box is, so it's just outside the master.

    I've never dealt with anything like this, and from what I've read, its PoE, so I'll need to replace the netgear switch in the box. Would the UniFi Switch 8 60W be enough for 2 APs?

    I've heard that Ubiquiti can have no drop hand offs between APs (if i wrote/read that right) if there's two APs or more setup. So, I was thinking of putting a second UAP-AC-PRO-US in one of the two spare bedrooms. This way the Nestcam IQ in the garage would have no signal issues, and the Nest Hello on the otherside of the house, below the master bedroom by the front door, would also have no issues.

    Unifi Security Gateway Questions:

    Now, being that I have gigabit fiber, will the regular USG have enough throughput for a theoretical 1gbps connection? Or do I need to get a USG Pro?

    I found a thread around here (this one) that talks about a USG being the gateway and router, and put pfSense (or, instead the redditor recommends Sophos XG) into bridge mode and enjoy the best of both worlds.

    Using USG and pfSense/Sophos XG setup (apparently) can allow for:

    • Web filtering (including content filtering, e.g removes ads and malware)
    • For select hosts in the lan it also decodes HTTPS, scans for malware and further enforces policies.
    • SMTP scanner/relay
    • Intrusion prevention for hosted web services.

    Is this relatively difficult to setup in addition to a USG? I have familiarity with DD-WRT from doing it to my old WRT54g way back in the day.

    Finally, should my wife allow me to do most/all of this, and I can somehow convince her to allow me to replace all the cat5e with cat6e, would a cat6e house have any issue using this hardware? I'm obviously not expecting to get a 10gbps hookup to the house in the next 10-15 years, gigabit should be sufficient for a little while, but if I have a NAS on the network that I can 10gig into from my machine upstairs, that would be quite nice.


    I think thats it, I tried to write this as throughly as possible after doing my own research and taking some notes. Please let me know if I've missed anything that I should answer/provide for you.

    Thank you SO SO SO much for existing. I can't wait to office space this Nighthawk.

    submitted by /u/swim_to_survive
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    ISP Throttles When Not Using Their Router

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 07:57 AM PST

    I have Cincinnati Bell 50mbps service. Fiber to Ethernet converter outside, with an Ethernet receptacle inside. I have an Archer C8 WiFi router. When I plug the Archer directly into the ISP Ethernet I only get 10mbps download (fast.com). I have to connect the ISP Zyxel modem/router first, then my Archer to get my full 50mbps. I have WiFi disabled on the Zyxel. What gives? Any ideas how to get my full 50mbps without the stupid Zyxel?

    submitted by /u/bearcat1337
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    Do you hide your SSID?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 09:35 AM PST

    Is there a point in hiding your SSID?

    submitted by /u/nootdude
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    I'm a bit lost. I want to monitor bandwidth and use QOS. What modem/router should I get. Should I be looking for something that can support dd-wrt?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 11:21 AM PST

    I'm sorry for being utterly clueless here, I'm totally lost.

    I've been told to just get something from Ubiquiti, and I've also been told anything that is Docsis 3.0 16x4 or better but I'm not really sure what I'm looking at.

    I'm currently with a stock rogers hitron-CODA-4582 modem.

    I just want to be able to diagnose connection issues and find out what device is eating up bandwidth.

    I was thinking I'd get a capable router and flash dd-wrt onto it, and link it straight to the modem in passthrough mode.

    If that is a worthy plan can someone recommend me a router that can handle gigabit speeds? Or point me in the right direction?

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/TheCheesy
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    Problem with router cascading

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 04:39 PM PST

    Hi! I recently bought a router (TP-Link Archer C7v5) which I am using in cascade (LAN-WAN) to expand my ISP's modem-router functionalities.

    Basically my first modem-router is connected to DSL port and has WiFi and DHCP server disabled. The only client connected to it is my TP-Link router which handles all the client and works well, internet and local network. The first modem-router has 192.168.1.x subnet and the second router has 10.x.x.x subnet.

    The problem comes when I try to port-forward from my router. I know how port forwarding works, I put the IP address I want to forward (10.0.0.2) which is static, the port (22 both public and private) and click OK. This obviously doesn't works because there is another NAT to "bypass", so I add another port forwarding rule on my first modem-router which has 192.168.1.2 as IP (the static IP address assigned to my second router), 22 as port both in public and private. It doesn't work. I am able to ping my public IP (0.5 ms) but if I try to ssh, after ~1 minute the connection "timed out".

    I also tried to setup a PPPoE connection in my second router's settings, all works fine, I'm able to get a public IP address and OpenVPN server configured on the router works (this means that I am able to reach port 1194 from the internet), but port forwarding doesn't work. I tried to add DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) that points on my server's local IP (10.0.0.2) but it doesn't works.

    Any help would be appreciated, thanks :D

    submitted by /u/unixLike_
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    Looking for a switch to handle higher operating temps - MIKROTIK?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 04:16 PM PST

    We've got a vacation home and we've got a a network setup there, and its a very hot environment. I'm looking for at least an 8 port managed or un-managed (doesn't really matter) min 8 port switch that can handle higher than the standard 40C max operating temp of most standard switches out there.

    The other criteria I have - I need it to be easy to install. The existing switch has burnt out, and I'm having someone local to the property replace it with another for us - but they are not technical at all.

    I know there are reasonably priced industrial switches that can handle high heat, but they all seem be DIN rail powered, which means getting an external power supply and hooking it up = way to technical for the person who will be doing the swap for me.

    I see mikrotik sells managed switches that are rated to 70C operating temp which is perfect. My question though is - can we just plug it in, and it will work? Reading their wiki - its not clear if it'll just work, or if it needs to be configured before any device attached to it gets a valid IP from the gateway.

    TLDR: Looking for a basic 8 port switch that can handle high operating temps and is dead easy to install - no configuration required.

    submitted by /u/CrownSeven
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    WiFi cutting out intermittently, getting log messages saying "Reason:INTERFERENCE"

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 10:59 AM PST

    Throughout the day, randomly, the WiFi cuts out for around 30 seconds to a minute. I notice this when browsing social media or watching a YouTube video. It just cuts out and comes back after a short time.

    I was looking at the logs and I saw this from today. And this is what it was yesterday.

    I read about someone else having this issue and someone said to change the wireless channel. I don't think this will work for me because it seems to be changing by itself, as the logs indicate.

    Does anyone know how I can solve this?

    submitted by /u/mattp_12
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    New router not working

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 10:18 AM PST

    My current router was giving me ping spikes in games very often, so I got a new one (TL-WR940N). But after connecting it to my in-wall ethernet port and going through the quick setup in the router settings, Even though I connected to the Wi-fi, I didn't have any internet.

    I ran Windows troubleshooter and it told me that the DNS server wasn't responding. I tried setting up Google and automatic DNS but nothing worked.

    I've already tried the basic things like reconnecting the cable, restarting the router etc.

    But nothing changed...
    Any help?

    submitted by /u/TAWMSTGKCNLAMPKYSK
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    WiFi keeps disconnecting requiring the router to be restarted

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 07:52 PM PST

    Hi,

    I have a NetComWireless NF18CV router that I am having issues with where the WiFi disconnects randomly and requires me to either wait 15+ mins or restart the router in order for it to start working...

    I'm unsure what's going on and am wondering if any of the wifi settings can be changed to improve things.

    2.4ghz

    https://i.imgur.com/hferwdj.png

    5ghz

    https://i.imgur.com/Sn5Hqv6.png

    The settings I am most unsure about are:

    • Bandwidth
    • Control Sideband
    • OBSS Co-Existance
    • RX Chain Power Save
    • XPress Technology
    • Band Steering
    • Airtime Fairness

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

    submitted by /u/IAmABritishGuy
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    Only the room with the wifi router has wifi signal. How to fix and what repeater can you recommend?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 07:44 PM PST

    Hi,

    We have a problem in our house where only the room with the wifi router has wifi signal. Once you go out of that room, the wifi signal decreases to only 1 bar to none at all.

    Can you suggest how we can solve this problem? What wifi repeater is recommended for both low-end and mid-end budget?

    Thank you.

    submitted by /u/oroalej
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    Phone Lines

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 07:06 PM PST

    Hey all,

    I'm doing an install for a friend in his new house. We got him hooked up with a sweet Ubiquiti system with NanoHD's throughout the house. This was my first Ubiquiti system, and I was very impressed. Configuration was a breeze and it seems to be working perfectly.

    Now, the electrician, who was initially supposed to do the network as part of the rest of the electrical, handed us the network along with the phone lines, as we were running them to a lot of the same place. So I need to terminate the phone lines and prep it for the telecom to come hook him up.

    I've never messed with phones before, only networking, so I have a couple of questions:

    1. Do people still use the old 66 block type hub for the phone lines? Is there a better way to do it than with one of those things? It doesn't look hard, just wondering if there's a better option.
    2. Really a follow up to question 1 - If I do use the 66 block, I have 13 phone lines that need to be put onto the block. Cat 5e run to each one. Most of the stuff I see shows people punching down all 4 pairs. This seems unnecessary as I don't think he'll ever even use the one phone line, let alone 4 lines. Also, if I do all 4 pairs, I'll have to have 2 of the standard 66 blocks as they each hold 50 pairs (13 runs * 4 pairs = 52). Seems silly. But maybe there's something I don't understand. Is there a reason to punch down all 4 pairs?

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/BrotherOfZelph
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    Decently sized house, looking for router recommendations with range.

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 11:29 AM PST

    Hey guys, I have a "big" house (not huge) and I havetwo routers. My second router is a cheap one I bought on amazon to have it as an AP. But it kinda sucks and I dont really know how to set it up properly, which has lead me to buying a router with large range as my main router. I'm looking for something in the <$250 range.

    submitted by /u/That0nekid1
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    Any way to convert a Netgear N600 wifi range extender (WN2500RP) in to a wired access point?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 12:53 PM PST

    I have an old Netgear WN2500RP that is too far from the main router to work properly. The house it wired with Cat5 and was wondering if there's any way to convert the wifi range extender in to a normal access point (wired with an ethernet cable from the main router etc).

    I'm really asking if there's anything like DD-WRT or Tomato that I can flash it with to make it in to an access point.

    Probably a hardware limitation but I thought I'd check before chucking it out.....

    submitted by /u/phatelectribe
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    Recommendations for small 1bed apt

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 05:22 AM PST

    Just moved into a small one bed apartment in nyc. Initially I was thinking of getting an onhub, Google wifi or an amplifi instant. As there are a lot of people living in the building and the apartment isn't massive, I was thinking mesh would be overkill and probably not a great idea to get any of those. Any recommendations?

    A couple of ethernet ports would be ideal (NAS and pihole) and anything that would help with consistent coverage in this crowded area. Aesthetically pleasing would be a bonus. I'm not a massive gamer, main use will be streaming (chromecast, firetv) and general browsing and work.

    Thanks for any help!!

    submitted by /u/qwerty_qwerty_qwerty
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    Cradlepoint CBA750B Router with MC200LE-VZ Modem on Bluegrass Cellular

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 01:59 PM PST

    I recently purchased on the above combo to replace my carrier issued modem. The modem I'm hoping to replace has been replaced by the carrier under warranty twice already, it just keeps losing reception randomly despite the fact that it is in a stationary location. This new modem will not lock on, it gives me a sim not recognized error in the web ui. The carrier I use is called Bluegrass Cellular. To my knowledge they operate off the same frequencies as Verizon, they've built their network out with them. Is there anything else I need to look at? Or did I buy something that just will not work at all?

    EDIT: Solved

    Unbeknownst to me my carrier issued modem uses a type of sim known as an LTE sim, used exclusively in their modems. My Cradlepoint uses what is known as an LRA sim, I will be getting a new sim issued and having my account reprovisioned.

    submitted by /u/Capt1ndustry
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    best router/modem combo, or devices for comcast

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 05:08 PM PST

    I'm trying to help someone who wants to get rid of her cable TV services, and replace her rented modem/router with a purchased one, and only have internet. It's for a 2 story house of 1800 sq ft, for a woman and her 2 teenage boys.

    Additionally, she will use Apple TV with netflix and maybe sling.com or something like that.

    I had her call comcast and they suggested she change her plan to 1 GBps. I've since heard 100 Mbps is fine.

    How is that for speed?

    And, what is the best replacement options - a single router/modem combo, separate devices, or one of those "mesh sets", like google home?

    submitted by /u/pranaman
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    Long range WiFi through the woods, just for a camera or 2

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 04:20 PM PST

    My house was broken into and my family is a little freaked out, so I'm installing a gate at the end of my driveway. Also I'm in the process of installing Ring cameras around the house plus the Ring security.

    Here is a picture of what I'm facing. It's 471 ft through the woods. Additionally, there is wiring in the ground for light posts that were never installed. I plan on putting in light posts, so I can have power to trickle charge a gate battery.

    At the end of my driveway, I'd like to have a Ring Doorbell, and a Ring Spotlight Camera. My feeling is a solid gate and cameras at the front of the property would make folks think twice.

    Is there a conceivable way of doing this? I've looked through as many of the posts on here searching for "long range" as I can. I'm not sure if the solutions will work... Would a locoM2 on each end work? Is there something I can install at some or all of the light posts? Am I better off with 4G?

    Thank you for any help you can offer!

    submitted by /u/Fairways_and_Greens
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    Which Router Sould I Get

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 04:10 PM PST

    Hoping to get recommendations on a router model so I can stop renting Verizon's and just use my own. I've got FIOS high-speed (gigabit, I think) internet, so the router would obviously have to be able to keep up with that.

    I know some companies are really favored on here like Asus, which I would install Merlin on. I know people also seem to like Mikrotik (I've seen the hAP ac2 recommended b4) and Ubiquity. I think I've read about at least one of these brands having recent security issues.

    One model I've seen recommended was the Asus AC88U but it's a lot pricier than a lot of their other models and might be overkill for me. The house is one floor with 1600 sqft and a basement where I really don't need much of an internet connection.

    submitted by /u/ModAlternate
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    What's the cheapest way to go about setting up a file and video streaming server?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 02:10 AM PST

    What's the cheapest way to set up about 4-6 HDDs for video streaming?

    Should I set up a cheap PC as a file server? Should I get a desktop NAS? Can I build one with a Pi?

    I'll mostly use it for LAN file sharing and video streaming. Streaming will sometimes be on multiple devices at the same time (rarely more than 2). In the future I may want to get it online and use it as a personal cloud storage.

    submitted by /u/engineeredthoughts
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    What router/firmware easily lets you assign VPN connections to specific IP's or MAC addresses?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 03:57 PM PST

    I see a lot of routers that can place a VPN connection but that's for the entire network and not just certain devices. Is there any that can do this?

    submitted by /u/xx_xo
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    Fiber noob - Replace or extend cable?

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 07:54 AM PST

    Long timer lurker, first time caller. I'm helping a friend clean up their network stack. The installers originally ran fiber from the service box outside the house through the wall and barely into that bedroom. The modem sits on the floor. I'm wanting to move the modem 30 feet or so from where it is into a closet, along with a bunch more network equipment. Knowing I've run CAT5 across my house and 2 small businesses without issue (not being a jerk - just lettin ya know my comfort level. something something leatherbound books), here's my questions:

    1) Can I simply replace the cable from the service box? (yes, I know I'm not supposed to be able to access that box)

    2) If I can, is there any real reason not to?

    3) Either way (replace or extend), what sort of cable (& coupler if needed) do I need to pick up?

    Here's both ends of the cable (service and modem): https://imgur.com/a/qLt9yS8

    The modem appears to be a Calix 844G-1 GigaCenter Router/Modem.

    submitted by /u/Reddfish
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    Internet Help

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 03:18 PM PST

    I recently moved in with my dad after graduating high school. His home networking setup is atrocious. We moved an eye sore of a printer out of our living room (which is where all the hardware is setup) and after unplugging it our internet went out and won't come back on. I unplugged and restarted everything. My phone says connect, but no internet access. I've used up the extent of my knowledge and need some help.

    submitted by /u/p2skater1
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    Ping/Bandwidth varying wildly, renewing temporarily fixes it, but no consistent solution.

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 02:52 PM PST

    Comcast-->surfboard6141-->edgerouter x sfp+unifi AP pro

    My speedtest will go from 13-20ms ping and 150+MBPS down which is my expected speed, to 1200+ ping and <2MBPS down. Sometime RUNNING a speedtest will fix it, as during the download phase it will quickly ramp up for no apparent reason, but I haven't been able to consistently fix this.

    I enabled DHCPv6 PD on the router which seemed to help for a period of time but not consistently, i've just used the basic setup on the Edgerouter X SFP since I'm not very well versed in networking.

    Has anyone had a similar issue or no how I can troubleshoot this? The signal strength through the modem is within spec, everything should be working properly, but isn't, I'm genuinely at a loss.

    submitted by /u/Ultramus
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    Troubleshooting Possible Heat Damage

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 02:42 PM PST

    Device

    Netgear WNDR3800, Gargoyle 1.10.0

    Complaint

    Any device connected via Ethernet loses its connection, sometimes a few times per day, sometimes every few minutes (pinged the router with "-t" on multiple devices to watch it happen). Problem persists despite different cables or Ethernet ports, and despite upgrading firmware to latest and reconfiguring.

    Wi-Fi is not affected and continues to work without issue.

    Background

    Device is 4 years old. It has been living in the garage next to the fibre box. The garage is not climate controlled. I suspect heat/cold damage has degraded the device over the years in a way that has somehow left Wi-Fi performance unscathed, or that the devices performance changes with the weather but no permanent damage has been done.

    Network

    Ethernet

    • Two PCs

    • Smart Tv

    Wireless

    • Between 13 and 20 phones, smart switches, doorbell, laptops, printer, smart speakers, Chromecast, vacuum, game consoles

    Questions

    • Is my assumption about temperature damage likely correct? Why is Wi-Fi not affected?

    • All of the wall-cabling exits in the garage - does a network switch have more robust temperature resistance, and could I put a switch in the garage instead, and move the router indoors where it is climate controlled?

    • Is there a program I can use to measure improvement in disconnections over time so I can check for correlations to temperature?

    • What is the best home network modem/router proven compatible with gargoyle today?

    submitted by /u/alexander_q
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    MoCA

    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 02:37 PM PST

    Hi,

    Currently I have 2 internet lines coming into the house and both have a separate network on each. As it stands, I'm using power lines to link different rooms but have 2 different groups (2 power lines on network 1 and 2 on network 2) and it causes a lot of problems with link speed negotiation etc. I recently heard about MoCA and would like to get one of the Powerline networks on to this.

    I have satellite TV which I've heard is a problem. However, I have a few questions which I could not find an answer to. In terms of functionality, does MoCA work over a satellite Coax setup even though it causes interference with TV or does it completely not work?

    And if so: Does MoCA interfere with the TV signal even if the Coax from the TV isn't going into an adapter?

    submitted by /u/Ic0nSeC
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